Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)

Categories



Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


powered by Surfing Waves




Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.




    • CommentAuthorSamTownsend
    • CommentTimeMar 7th 2010 edited
     
    Hi all - first post so be gentle.

    Had some issues with condensation and really need to fit some extraction (no extractor in kitchen and like to steam veg!)

    Clearly, heat recovery makes pure sense, so would like to install some. No room for ducting associated with normal loft positioned ones. 1920's semi, Pretty well insulated now considering the type of house.

    Saw a couple neat looking units at EcoBuild. One by Vent-axia (Tempra) and Xpelaire do one too (HXR150).

    Essentially a replacement for a standard through the wall extractor, but claiming 75 or 80% recovery, Draws slightly less air in to maintain a negative pressure in the room.
    Would like to fit one to my bathroom, and one in my kitchen. (Will have to be vigilant with using our cooker hood which is just a recycling one, but clearly don't want to cack up an expensive MVHR with grease etc)

    Has anyone out there had any real world experience with these rather neat looking units.
    Wondered if they can live up to their claims.
  1.  
    Oh - another thing...

    Would people recommend permanent trickle mode, or just use as required (Boost).
  2.  
  3.  
    Cheers Nick, :bigsmile:

    Found some more threads now I know what to search for i.e "single room heat recovery".

    Seems that external wind speed can play an important role.

    My kitchen one could vent into an attached outhouse, which would be sheltered thus avoiding this problem. Guess I would then have to provide some extract on the outhouse, which wouldn't be a bad thing, as its got condensation problems anyway (we dry washing in there)

    Not sure about the bathroom one. Anything would be better then the existing fan, which you can see daylight through when its not spinning. Brrrrr.
  4.  
    The HR25 is unlikely to be 'grunty' enough for a kitchen, I think, and beware of simply decanting the (moisture) problem into another 'room' - your washing will not dry so quickly!
  5.  
    Hmm. Tricky one.

    There is no extraction what so ever in the kitchen at the moment. Kettle is on fairly regular and of course we boil pasta/veg for tea.

    Seems such a shame to get a standard extract and start dumping heat straight outside.

    However, they are pretty pricey, and I don't want to install something that ain't going to work.

    Will do some more investigations.
    • CommentAuthorGavin_A
    • CommentTimeMar 7th 2010
     
    Be aware that they can be noisy when operating at top wack even in good conditions, but when it's below freezing outside if ice forms from the condensate, they can sound like you've got a small plane taking off.

    The model I noticed this on IIRC was a vent axia, with the other problem being that it only had trickle mode or fully on mode, no medium setting. In even a moderate breeze, trickle mode didn't work because it was so underpowered, resulting in cold air blowing straight in from outside with no heat recovery, and that to actually get it sucking the moist air out of the room rather than effectively blowing it through into the rest of the house it had to operate in full noisy mode.

    I think some sort of a wind protective external hood might have partially solved the problems, but haven't yet had chance to test this theory out.

    This was in stirling with the outside air temperatures dropping to -15, so I suppose it's less of an issue if you're in the south. Something to be aware of anyway.
    • CommentAuthorneelpeel
    • CommentTimeMar 7th 2010
     
    "...and of course we boil pasta/veg for tea. "

    Better off stopping the humidity at source...put the pan lids on!
  6.  
    very droll - and the kettle ???? :wink:
    •  
      CommentAuthorDamonHD
    • CommentTimeMar 8th 2010
     
    Manually switch it off as it just starts to boil; all the rest to make enough steam to trigger the automatic switch is a waste of energy anyway.

    I regard it as a sport.

    Rgds

    Damon
    • CommentAuthorjules
    • CommentTimeMar 8th 2010
     
    I have HR25s in our bathrooms and also in the utility room: this is their first winter of operation (we are in SE England). They seem to work fine. Yes they are noisy in boost mode, but that's generally only for about 5 minutes after someone's had a shower. Otherwise they've v quiet and only consume 2W. I haven't noticed any problems on windy days, but I couldn't say for sure that the problem Gavin mentions doesn't happen. Following the coldest night of the year the one downstairs did rattle badly presumably because of icing, but I just turned it off until the afternoon and the problem went, and otherwise it's been fine (remember that on really cold frosty nights outside temps will be several degrees lower at ground level than at first floor level, so upstairs the risk is much less).

    One thing about HRV is that the colder the outside temp, the drier the air which is drawn into the house, so ironically they may have been more effective this year than they would be in a mild damp winter.

    Final point- the big downside of the HR25 is the price: £200 plus.
    • CommentAuthorarthur
    • CommentTimeMar 8th 2010 edited
     
    What are the advantages of a unit like this over a unit like the HR25 anyone?
    http://www.justfans.co.uk/akor-heat-recovery-unit-p-336.html

    Jules, do you run yours constantly on trickle mode? Or do you leave it off most of the time?
    • CommentAuthorjules
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2010
     
    Arthur
    Mine is on 24/7, and 99% of the time it's in trickle mode. As I said previously, the only time it goes into boost mode is when someone's having a shower, and then it's rarely for more than 5 mins.

    Since I turned them on in October not a single window has been opened in the house at any time. For me the objective was not to open windows in the winter and also not to have to worry about making the house as airtight as possible. The HR25s are my alternative ventilation. Since the house is 100 years old and large, it's unlikely ever to be airtight enough to need proper MHRV.

    Once the heating goes off I shall turn them off and allow people to open windows...
  7.  
    Thanks guys - May well take the financial plunge with one, and fit it in the bathroom, then see how it goes before fitting one in the kitchen.
  8.  
    Quote from jules
    "As I said previously, the only time it goes into boost mode is when someone's having a shower, and then it's rarely for more than 5 mins."

    Is your's operated on a Humidistat then
  9.  
    Posted By: arthurWhat are the advantages of a unit like this over a unit like the HR25 anyone?

    Jules, do you run yours constantly on trickle mode? Or do you leave it off most of the time?


    Hi Jules can you just clarify, are your remarks about HR25s or something else?

    Peter
    • CommentAuthorjules
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2010
     
    Sam, my units have a humidistat - they are the HR25H. As you probably know, you can get different versions that are manually switched from one mode to the other, or are linked to the bathroom light etc.

    Peter - all my remarks are about these units, as they are the only ones I have. I'm not sure what Arthur was referring to.

    As I said they've only been installed for 6 months, so my experience is limited, but so far I'm have no complaints. Although you do need to drill a 150mm diameter hole in your wall for them!
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2010
     
    £200 is cheap compared to a proper MHRV (at least £650+pipes, and often a great deal more). Even if you fit 2 (in say kitchen and bathroom), it's still cheap. And at 4W that's about half the min power of most of the MHRV units. Seems to me in retrofit there is a choice between two of these and 'full' MHRV. This is easier, cheaper and lower power. If it works 'well enough' then perhaps that makes MHRV overkill, especially if you aren't sure you can achieve sufficient airtightness.

    Something to ponder.
    • CommentAuthorjules
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2010
     
    Should just add that in a post above I meant to say, in case it was confusing, that an objective of installing these fans was to be able to make the house as airtight as possible without worrying about the consequences. The only other thing I should add is that we have a large and quite open house (~240sqm), so there is less of a problem with "stuffiness" anyway. But I haven't had any problems with dampness/condensation, despite never opening the windows in the bathrooms all winter.
    • CommentAuthorarthur
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2010 edited
     
    What do you do about the kitchen jules? Cooker had extractor?

    Sorry about my confusing post above. I had meant to include a link to this unit which someone mentioned on another thread:
    http://www.justfans.co.uk/akor-heat-recovery-unit-p-336.html
    I've edited above to include it.
    • CommentAuthorjules
    • CommentTimeMar 10th 2010
     
    Arthur
    In our kitchen we just have a cooker hood extractor. The kitchen is in a large open plan area so steaming up is actually not much of a problem, and in fact we don't actually use it a lot. I had wondered about having an HR25 in the kitchen, but I suspect that there are issues with grease etc getting in the works.

    Final point - we only bought the house 2 years ago and then had it gutted, so I cannot make a "before and after" comparison for these fans. Smaller and less open houses with different levels of leakiness might have different experiences. Would be nice to hear from anyone else who has single room units.
  10.  
    I love this fan thanks all for discussing it and I have a 150mm core bit and soft solid stone walls so easy (well ish!) DIY fit.

    But is there another fan that does EXACTLY what this fan does but significantly cheaper because it does not have HR - I can't seem to find one. I simply cannot easily retro-fit a full house solution and such a fan (without HR and I expect I will need 3) will draw air from wherever there are leaks creating a slight through flow through the house. Is this through flow my imagination, perhaps the humidity gradient the HR25 creates (and humidity is a big problem for me) is a 'strong' effect relative to the flow of air a non-HR fan creates at such low volumes of air moved - thoughts please.

    I heat with wood, and its cheap here, so the HR thing is less critical from an energy perspective than it might otherwise be.
    • CommentAuthorGavin_A
    • CommentTimeMar 11th 2010
     
    when you say 'does exactly what this fan does, but without HR, what exactly do you mean?

    a HR unit effectively blows and sucks at the same time, so doesn't really draw air through the house at all in the way you describe regardless of whether there's heat recovery or not.

    to draw air through the house in the way you describe without heat recovery, you just need a standard extractor fan, or an extractor fan with humidity sensor if that's the function you want.
  11.  
    Thanks Gavin but have another read of my post - I think it clearly says what I mean. The characteristics of the fan I think I want are: designed for 24/7/lots of years use, 2w (ish) normal power use, adjustable humidstat operating boost speed, similar volumes of air moved indeed everything this fan does except the HR bit. It is obvious that a HR fan doesn't 'pull' air through the house. Which is why I said that a non-HR fan would pull air as I describe but low volumes and so perhaps this pull through is not a large effect relative to a HR fan (not pulling air through) creating a strong? local humidity gradient.

    I though someone might have come across a fan like this for less money (bizarrely I found one for more money, using a little more power without HR).
    • CommentAuthorjules
    • CommentTimeMar 12th 2010
     
    As an aside, the HR25 draws in about half the volume of air that it sucks out in both trickle and boost mode, so you would get a slight negative pressure in the room relative to the rest of the house, resulting in a slight flow from the rest of the house.

    HR25 figures: Trickle mode - 15.7m3/h out, 7.8 in
    Boost mode - 54.8m3/h out, 35.8 in
  12.  
    Jules - great spot! I couldn't see how you were experiencing improved air quality throughout your house with 2 push/pull fans.

    If I could buy 3 cheaper low power 24/7 etc fans for the price of 2 of the 25s I would in a shot.
    • CommentAuthorGavin_A
    • CommentTimeMar 12th 2010
     
    Thanks for that info Jules, I suppose there was a strong wind blowing through the unit at the time I tested it (aka taped a plastic bag over it) to see if it was blowing/sucking/both equally, so I should really have worked out that it was supposed to have been more sucking than blowing.

    Gotanewlife - if it was clear then I'd not have been asking. Anyway, something like this is probably what you're after

    vent axia Lo-Carbon Solo Plus SELV Fan + H/Stat & Timer - £134.67 + vat etc from here
    http://gil-lec.co.uk/products/Extractor+Fans/Centrifugal+Fans/Lo-Carbon+Solo+Plus+SELV+Fan+%2B+H/Stat+%26+Timer/1274882248

    it's not quite as low wattage on trickle mode as the HR25 at 5.7watts, but it extracts 25% more air in trickle mode than it, and has a low boost function that extracts double the air at only 6.5 watts, and even it's peak mode draws less power than the HR25's peak. It also has both timer and humidistat functions, so I'd think that overall it's energy consumption would be pretty much the same as or lower than the HR25.
    • CommentAuthorjules
    • CommentTimeMar 12th 2010
     
    Gavin
    I'm not saying that the windy day problem you mention doesn't exist, and I seem to recall that someone on a previous thread linked to an article criticizing HR fans generally for this problem. However I haven't noticed it.

    Gotanewlife
    I keep on adding caveats to my comments... but our house is quite large and open, especially downstairs, and as I have mentioned previously it was a very different house before the fans were installed during refurbishment. So I cannot say for certain that the good air quality is due solely to the fans.
    • CommentAuthorGavin_A
    • CommentTimeMar 12th 2010
     
    The house in question was in outside Inverness, at the peak of the winter freeze (-15 night time temperatures and sub-zero daytime), with 2 of those HR25 units on north facing walls, with a howling gale blowing from the north, so pretty extreme conditions.

    In a more sheltered location probably not on a north facing wall, or in areas not so prone to such extreme low temperatures I'm sure they work really well, just something to bear in mind for anyone who is in a more exposed location really.
  13.  
    Thanks Gavin - exactly what I want. Jules caveats noted but I am convinced that Gavin's fan is perfect for my needs.
   
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   
Logout    

© Green Building Press