Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition |
![]() |
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment. PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book. |
Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.
Posted By: fostertomCob is ideal for safely absorbing/sequestering any water vapour peaks from cooking/showering, until able to re-dry - tho of course if surface temp is such that the vapour condenses, it won't get sequestered in that way.Sorry, that's so surprising that more explanation is needed. I can't see why cob would store any more water *as vapour* than an equivalent volume of fresh air - rather it'll store less, surely? It would only be if the water condenses that more water could be stored, i.e., I'd have thought that only if the surface temperature was such that vapour condenses would such sequestration happen.
Posted By: fostertomEverything I've learned lately, from playing with WUFI, says that internal (or any) vapour barriers cause trouble, because they prevent drying-out inward. 95% of the water vapour in play originates from outside, ebbing and flowing thro walls; only a trivial %age from kitchen/showering etc.Is that specific to masonry walls with no cladding or with render or does it also apply to walls with a properly ventilated rainscreen? In other words, is the external water which dominates come from direct rain impingement on the wall or from plain-old water vapour which is hanging around anyway.
Posted By: Ed Daviesit's the relatively high conductivity and thermal mass of the cobHave I ever mentioned thermal inertia. There should be a humidity inertia. Wonder if I can see it in my weather data.
1 to 5 of 5