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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    • CommentAuthordivergav
    • CommentTimeNov 1st 2018
     
    Hey everyone. Sorry for the length of this question.

    I have a Daikin Altherma ASHP and generally am very happy with it, but I have 2 problems that have cropped up and not sure if they are connected.

    Prob 1: We've had a hotwater flow fault for a while now and many attempts to fix it have proved fruitless. The ASHP works in conjunction with a solar thermal panel so in summer the solar heats the water and all is good. However, last year, after years of working properly, the ASHP hot water system throws up a flow fault. It was intermittent at first and is now everytime the ASHP is asked for hot water. The space heating works every time. The flow fault is just the hot water.

    So the engineers clean the filters, change the pump, filddle with wiring and tinker around, but nothing works. The heating engineers say its not the heatpump so is a plumbing issue. After months of trying to find plumbers who know heatpumps (I live in a rural part of the country) I find a company. They think it is the diverter valve causing the problem. So they drain down the system and fit a new one (at great cost). The problem persists. Between the hot flow from the ASHP and the hotwater cylinder is the diverter valve, a solenoid valve (a safety for the solar thermal system) and some copper pipework.

    So everyone is at a loss as to what is causing the issue. My question is for ideas, but also could it be the coil inside the hotwater cylinder getting furred up? Does that happen? We live in a very hard water area, but have a filter on water entering the house to combat some of the hardness.

    Prob 2: It started this week after the diverter valve was changed (but I only noticed it then as the days have got colder). The ASHP only seems to make up to 34°C and then drops the temp back down. The heat pump also sounds like it is struggling. Has anyone experienced this before? Anyone have a possible idea of the problem?

    I hope someone can help with either or both issues.

    Thanks
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 1st 2018
     
    Posted By: divergavSo everyone is at a loss as to what is causing the issue. My question is for ideas, but also could it be the coil inside the hotwater cylinder getting furred up? Does that happen? We live in a very hard water area, but have a filter on water entering the house to combat some of the hardness.

    I think a diagram of the plumbing would probably help to be sure everybody is talking about the same thing, especially indicating where flows go uphill or downhill. An indication of pipe lengths might be useful too.

    Coils do get furred up if they have fresh hard water going through them. But that should only happen if it's a thermal store and the potable DHW is what's flowing through the coil. If so, the tank would be hot, but the DHW would only be warm. If your coil is a primary coil with water from the ASHP inside it, then that should be the same water recirculating all the time (ist that so?) and as such the coil won't fur up much. Unless it's open-vented? (you see what I mean about a diagram?)

    A filter generally won't do much to reduce hardness (what type of filter is it anyway?). You need a softener for that.

    It would be useful to measure the temperature at various points through your system, and at different times if they change. Either a contact sensor or an IR thermometer will work if you temporarily remove insulation.

    If there is a problem with the ASHP that started when the diverter was changed, then I think your first step is to get back the company that changed the diverter and ask them to fix it (you said they understood heat pumps).
  1.  
    We had an altherma HT (the 2-stage high temperature system). The outdoor unit heats to about 35 Deg and the indoor unit has a second heat pump that boosts to 70+Deg.

    The indoor unit failed with a fault code that initially suggested low flow, we bled out air, cleaned the strainers and had the system power flushed to no avail. The temperature rose to ~35deg due to the outdoor unit but the indoor unit couldn't make it any hotter. In our case it then cut out with the fault code.

    The installers discussed the fault code with Daikin and started replacing components including sensors, pump, refrigerant expansion valve. The next step would be replacing the heat exchanger, as temperature/pressure readings suggested that the outdoor refrigerant had leaked into the indoor circuit. Both the labour and parts were more expensive than our previous boilers, so it quickly got beyond being economic. They suggested replacing the whole indoor unit but a change of model was coming and there was no stock of ours left.

    At that point we sold the house (unrelated reasons!)

    Good luck!
    • CommentAuthordivergav
    • CommentTimeNov 1st 2018
     
    Thanks for the comments. Will, you sound like you had a similar experience. Stuff gets changed and the fault still occurs.

    djh: I understand what you mean about diagrams. I did one and just need to find it and I'll add it, probably tomorrow. The trouble with the diverter change and the heat pump temp issue is I feel its a coincidence. The heatpump worked perfectly well (apart from the flow fault) when the new diverter went in, but when the cold weather started, the heatpump developed the fault. Funnily enough no fault code has been thrown up by the heatpump it just makes its 35° and that's it.

    I'll dig out the diagram for tomorrow.

    Thanks for your help guys
    • CommentAuthordivergav
    • CommentTimeNov 3rd 2018
     
    OK here we go attached is the diagram of the heating/hotwater system. I'm now pretty convinced I have 2 issues. The original hotwater flow fault and now a low temp issue (which I have no idea about). The heatpump, which was working fine now sounds like its struggling. Do the condensers need topping up like the air conditioning on a car?

    The heatpump is covered by a service contract so I am not too worried by that, but the hotwater flow fault is a concern as no one seems to really know what's wrong. The diverter valve (which apparently cause problems) is now new. The solenoid valve (was supposed to be new) I don't think is working correctly, but I am also not conviced is the issue as that was bypassed with some flexi-pipe and the fault still showed up. Can a blockage in the hotwater coil occur?
      Heat pump diagram.jpg
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeNov 4th 2018
     
    Posted By: divergavSo they drain down the system and fit a new one (at great cost). The problem persists.


    Did it work for a few days after they did that

    Could it be an air lock? Are they meant to put corrosion inhibitor in that loop? Corrosion can produce gas which can cause air locks over time.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeNov 4th 2018
     
    The solenoid valve (was supposed to be new) I don't think is working correctly, but I am also not conviced is the issue as that was bypassed with some flexi-pipe and the fault still showed up. Can a blockage in the hotwater coil occur?


    Yes but should be easy for a plumber to check. Basically jury rig something to get water to flow through the coil.

    Might be as simple as energising both the diverter and solenoid valves to the right position then opening both drain and fill valves.
    • CommentAuthordivergav
    • CommentTimeNov 5th 2018
     
    Draining the system back down, replacing the solenoid valve and inspecting the inner coil of the cylinder are the next steps. The heatpump did work properly for about a week after the diverter was replaced, so I think the issue is separate, but could an airlock be the issue?

    I really do appreciate your help
  2.  
    The symptoms do sound unfortunately like ours :-(

    The water pump in the altherma ASHP is 'load compensated' which means it runs faster or slower depending whether the heat that the ashp generates is being fully consumed by the house.

    So if the ashp fails to generate very much heat, the water pump will slow right down to match it, and this can register as a 'low water flow' fault code, despite being absolutely nothing to do with the water circuit.

    In our case, the indoor refrigerant circuit gradually failed, so the heat was only what the outdoor unit could produce (about 35-45degC). This registered as a 'low water flow' fault as explained above, leading to fruitless water plumbing repairs, until Daikin pointed the installers to check the indoor refrigerant circuit.

    The fault only showed up when the weather compensation controller called for a temperature much greater than 35degC. What temperature does your central heating run at in winter?
    • CommentAuthordivergav
    • CommentTimeNov 6th 2018
     
    WillInAberdeen The temp is set to max 55°C, but I tend to run it on auto which works out the temp from inside and outside temperatures. The heatpump pipes feel a lot hotter than the 30°C, the controller says though.
  3.  
    Yes, mine was the same. Through the summer the weather compensation ran it at 30 DegC and it didn't matter that the indoor unit wasn't boosting it. In the winter it tried to run hotter and that's when the fault became visible.

    You could turn it off auto as an experiment and set the heating temperature to run at the same temperature as the hot water? That would show you whether the fault is only located in the hot water tank circuit, or is more to do with the ashp trying to run at high temperatures.
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