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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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Offers and wants: Tool Guidance Please!

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    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeAug 21st 2012
     
    BHP452 18V Cordless LXT Combi Drill
    Specifications:
    Max torque S/H - 32/50 Nm
    Blows per minute - 0-22500 bpm
    No load speed - 0-1500 rpm

    BTD140 18V Cordless Impact Driver
    Specifications:
    Max torque - 145 Nm
    Impacts - 0-3200 ipm
    No load speed - 0-2300 rpm
  2.  
    borpin, fair point, never used Torq.
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeAug 22nd 2012
     
    Great post Hairlock - many thanks. I will investigate the last drill you bought and see what deals there are. My Ryobi has done sterling work but the batteries are useless now and very expensive to replace with the better quality ones. Much as I would like an automatic machine for driving the plasterboard screws at over £200 it is probably a luxury too far!! I'll just have to grin and bear the pain of sticking the screws into my fingers as I get them out of my fetching leather pouch!! Great fun.

    Regards to all who posted - Jonathan
  4.  
    I remember that feeling!
  5.  
    One tool that I find very useful especially timber framing is my little Ryobi cordless circular saw, it's obviously not up to heavy jobs but it is very handy for lots of situations, had it up on the roof with me today cutting roofing battens for example.

    I have the same problem with my Ryobi batteries one of them is now lasting no length, I did see replacements on ebay cheap enough but it hasn't got that critical yet.
  6.  
    Anyone ever come across a corded drill with a clutch like a cordless drill driver?

    J
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeAug 22nd 2012
     
    In some (many?) cases you can open up the battery and just replace the cells.
  8.  
    On the subject of batteries there is a technique on youtube and other website for as far as I can tell providing some sort of cardiac shock to cells via connecting to car batteries that appears to work, when I have the time I'll try it on a 'dead' devalt 18v battery I have.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5ThF32YlW4

    J
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeAug 22nd 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: Chris P BaconOne tool that I find very useful especially timber framing is my little Ryobi cordless circular saw, it's obviously not up to heavy jobs but it is very handy for lots of situations, had it up on the roof with me today cutting roofing battens for example.
    Sounds like
    Posted By: fostertomI remember being impressed by someone in Green Building mag describing his must-have tool - a worm-drive Skil-type saw which because the motor is in line is narrow and light enough to hang from the belt of typical US carpenter, used up on the roof instead of a hand saw. Not avail in UK AFAIK and if imported will be 110v.
    • CommentAuthorfinny
    • CommentTimeAug 22nd 2012
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: Ed Davies</cite>In some (many?) cases you can open up the battery and just replace the cells.</blockquote>
    I wasted hours and hours trying toi shock old 1.2v makita cells, then stripping them looking for faulty ones, replacing them only for others to fail shortly afterwards. Happily left NiMh behind me..
    Now use a Bosch 10.8 Lithium Ion stumpy drill/driver does 95% of the jobs the old 14.4v makita did, charges in a third of the time, cost a third of the money and weighs a third
    :cool:
  11.  
    http://www.dynatools.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=ryobisaw

    That's the Ryobi circular saw I have but without the laser fandango, it came in a kit with the drill and charger.

    If I can find some suitable wire I will try spiking my lazy battery in the next day or two.
    • CommentAuthorHairlocks
    • CommentTimeAug 23rd 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: James NortonAnyone ever come across a corded drill with a clutch like a cordless drill driver?

    J


    I was going to say no, but though I would check google first and found this. http://www.ryobitools.com/catalog/power_tools/drills_drivers/D47CK I will leave it the the reader to actually find it for sael somewhere.
    • CommentAuthorHairlocks
    • CommentTimeAug 23rd 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: borpinBHP452 18V Cordless LXT Combi Drill
    Specifications:
    Max torque S/H - 32/50 Nm
    Blows per minute - 0-22500 bpm
    No load speed - 0-1500 rpm

    BTD140 18V Cordless Impact Driver
    Specifications:
    Max torque - 145 Nm
    Impacts - 0-3200 ipm
    No load speed - 0-2300 rpm


    Um, yes the impact driver has a higher speed, but I will still claim the speed has little to do with reason it is better.

    When the going gets tough, speed slowed down, the impact driver starts impacting, you then squeeze and bit harder and the speed increases.

    For the drill/driver, the speed slows down/stalls when the going gets tough, you then squeeze a bit harder, the drill jumps of the screw, spins furiously, rounding off your screw bit requiring another bit.
    • CommentAuthorHairlocks
    • CommentTimeAug 23rd 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: Chris P Baconhttp://www.dynatools.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=ryobisaw" >http://www.dynatools.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=ryobisaw

    That's the Ryobi circular saw I have but without the laser fandango, it came in a kit with the drill and charger.

    If I can find some suitable wire I will try spiking my lazy battery in the next day or two.


    I have been told it is best done with a capacitor, as there is great if over done, which cannot be done with a capacitor.

    I also I thought the trick only worked with NiCd batteries, best to google first.
  15.  
    Posted By: HairlocksWhen the going gets tough, speed slowed down, the impact driver starts impacting, you then squeeze and bit harder and the speed increases.
    ...how come the impacting doesn't just bounce the bit out of the screw head?

    J
    • CommentAuthorTimber
    • CommentTimeAug 23rd 2012
     
    CPB - it is called cell zapping. You can get propper cell zappers for about £100. I used to have one when I raced RC cars in my 'yoof'. It passed about 100v DC (at very low current and for a fraction of a second) though each cell individually. I used it on new virgin cells to increase the cell voltage slightly (giving a higher total pack output).

    I would not recommend trying to home brew a whole pack in one go. Just take the pack apart and replace the cells with new ones off ebay.
    • CommentAuthorHairlocks
    • CommentTimeAug 23rd 2012 edited
     
    Posted By: James Norton
    Posted By: HairlocksWhen the going gets tough, speed slowed down, the impact driver starts impacting, you then squeeze and bit harder and the speed increases.
    ...how come the impacting doesn't just bounce the bit out of the screw head?

    J


    Not sure, I guess the impacts are so short it does not overcome the fricton enough and/or not move out of the screw head enough that it slips back into position for the next impact.
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeAug 24th 2012
     
    Plunge Saw. Absolute must have. Expensive but well worth it. I got the Makita with two rails.

    Rex
    • CommentAuthorBeau
    • CommentTimeAug 24th 2012
     
    This is the laser I bought but sadly it looks like the price has gone up massively, I paid £60 for ours.
    http://handytools.co.uk/acatalog/Handytools_Catalogue_Laser_Levels___Manual_Rotation_Function_1277.html

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