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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthortriniquint
    • CommentTimeMay 21st 2007
     
    I have a small, semi-detached bungalow in which the wooden floors feel as if they need strengthening. There is a sort of slight spring to them, and they don’t ‘feel’ too strong.
    Recently we had bedroom furniture built by a carpenter, and he went through the floor in the corner by the outside wall and next door, when a joist simply gave up through rot. Though he replaced this joist, and one other, and then laminated the bedroom floor, as I walk along the window wall towards the corner where he fell through the floor (where our built-in wardrobe now is), the floor creaks and squeaks.

    When transiting the living room – which has the front door entering into it, and is a high traffic area – the floor also makes me feel that if my son and I had to jump up and down hard, we would probably crash through that, too.

    We also get slugs inside the house, leaving silver trails, which I understand is also a sign of damp. (I can’t believe they live underneath the house on the solum area, but perhaps get into this under floor area via airbricks, or whatever.

    I think the entire floor area of the house i.e. hall, living room, and bedroom, requires ripping up, damp-proofing, central heating pipes clad, brand new joists put in (with PVC at ends where they go into the brickwork), possible additional air bricks to improve air flow. Only when this is done, can I then lay new timber flooring – but before laying the actual boards down, I need to know what membrane, if any, I can lay over the joists, and under the boards, so as to seal my living areas off from whatever is underneath.

    My tentative plan is to simply empty one room (living room), take up the carpet and underlay, expose the floorboards, remove skirting boards, crowbar up the old floorboards, drop down into the under floor area, remove the joists, and simply leave a large, smelly, open hole space where the living room floor was.

    I then want to inspect this i.e. check airbricks have good air flow; that the airbricks are into ducting that passes from the front of the house, through the cavity, and into the under floor area. I don’t want airbricks that simply replace a brick from the wall, and allow air to go through this and vanish into the cavity. The air needs to be directed past the cavity and into the under floor area.

    I then want to check all central heating piping is supported, lagged, and not leaking – but lagged with what? Wrapped in Hessian, or polystyrene tubing?

    Having done this I want to clear any rubble, detritus, etc from the ground, and check for any sleeper walls. Then check for puddles.

    I would like to damp proof this solum area completely – I believe we are getting damp in there from the clay soil – and only once this has been done to my satisfaction, do I ant to renew the joists and flooring, as well as strengthening the floor by using noggins between the joists.

    I have been telling my wife this needs doing, but she refuses to countenance it, believing the upheaval will be too much. I believe I can do it in no more than a couple of days – provided I plan accordingly.

    I don’t simply want to tear up the old floorboards/joists, and replace with new, and bang them down to hide what’s underneath. I want a dry under floor area, and the job to be done properly – but need advice.

    Whilst reasonably competent at DIY, this is a major undertaking which I am a little frightened of. Once I have started, then I will be compelled to finish it, and if I make an mess of it, I’ll wish I’d never have started, and could lose money unnecessarily. I am loathe to call in builders due to cost, and not being 100% certain they don’t cut corners.

    Any advise or ideas would be very helpful.
    • CommentAuthorRoger
    • CommentTimeMay 21st 2007
     
    I would think that you would want to try and get a look into the underfloor void, see if the joists, and their ends, are actually rotten, or are undersized. 'Timber tables' are available on the web that state appropriate dimensions for your spans if you suspect they are undersized. They could be strengthened in-situ. If rotten, I would rip them out.

    I removed a floor of rotten-ended joists recently. Despite the initial filth and effort, I am much happier with this than the make to and mend option that was a possibility. I reused my undersized joists (rotten ends sawn off) at new, appropriate centres hung on joist brackets nailed to x4 new engineered timber beams (room 5mx10m). This avoided reusing the existing joists holes that were awkward to get new joists into. NB The wall would need to be robust enough to take the new loads you are imposing by this method (I had to get a structural engineer to draw this up). Alternately, I guess you could hang fresh joists on joist brackets face-fixed to the wall. Or use one vacated hole to seat one end of a joist and seat the other end in a joist hanger, face-fixed to a filled hole on the opposite side. Your Building Control officer would probably give you some advice. I didn't require builders and managed it OK, though some muscle for shifting the big beams was called in. Took a month of weekends with helpers and the filth was significant.

    Removing all debris and ensuring adequate through ventilation to the underfloor would be a good idea. Collins DIY manual has drawings of insulation methods for a floor over a void such as yours, or download details from the Energy Saving Trust. Hope this helps.

    Roger.
    • CommentAuthormoogaloo
    • CommentTimeMay 21st 2007
     
    I have all my floor boards up at the moment as I am having underfloor heating fitted and whilst up having treatment and any rotten joists replaced, old pipes, wires removed etc.

    One thing you should consider if doing this is to also add some insulation for the ground floor.
    • CommentAuthorchuckey
    • CommentTimeMay 23rd 2007
     
    When you put in your air bricks, stuff a sausage of glassfibre around the hole inside the cavity, the air won't go up the cavity and when you get your cavities filled its one less job to do. While you are doing this check that the DPC and cavity are clear of mortar/sand/dirt, a domestic vacuum cleaner is useful here, if it does not use paper bags.
    Place additional support under the joists, 2' square paving stone , bit of roofing felt, 2 brick square pillar up to joist. Lift joist slightly (1/16") with car jack, put mortar under it, release car jack. Leave joist to dry out.
    Frank
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