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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
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    • CommentAuthorskyewright
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016 edited
     
    Posted By: SteamyTea
    A low sun angle, on a clear day like today may have a greater impact on the internal temperature than a higher angle in the summer.

    You beat me to it...
    Solar gain can be very significant (& useful) in Winter. Perhaps more so the further N you go (within reason - I'm thinking of the UK, not the Arctic!).
    In this season our heating demand is typically significantly less on a cold clear day than on a 'warm' (for the time of year) dull day.

    PS. The large sunspaces on either side (WSW & ENE) of the house are very relevant for this since they help us harvest the heat while it's available.

    Edited for typos.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016
     
    Posted By: ringiMost solar gain is in the summer were no houses in the UK needs heating, let’s discount this.

    The next highest months of solar gain are in the spring and autumn.

    Even a house build to Part L standards is unlikely to benefit from much solar gain at the start of the autumn, as it is gaining more energy from the people living there and electrical items, then it is losing.

    As we get closer to passive home level, the house does not need solar gain in the autumn, it also does not need solar gain towards the end of the spring. There is very limited solar gain to be had in winter, due to the lengths of days and how little sun light gets to the earth even in the day time.

    Hence energy modelling needs to be done on “day by day” bases using data from a few years, not looking at average heat requirements and solar gains.

    I agree about the lack of need for solar gain in the summer, or at least that the house will get enough*. In our case this year that was until approximately the start of November. But the solar gain on sunny days in autumn, winter and spring is extremely important. More than what season it is, what matters is whether a day is sunny or cloudy.

    So yes, the actual heat demand each year will vary depending how many sunny days there are, but I think designing using monthly averages for demand, plus worst case figures for load design, is probably about as good a way as any.

    * In fact the major reason for not having too much south-facing window area is overheating in summer. It's easy to reduce the overall heat demand of a house by increasing the south-facing glazing, but then you need to deal with too much solar gain in the summer.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016 edited
     
    You may find that having some SE and SW facing windows helps in the winter and is not too affected in the summer.

    Here are a few pictures to illustrate.
    Using Penzance and Skye as the location and June 21 and today as the time.
    First two are June, second two are today (29/11/2016).
      Sun PZ June.jpg
      Sun Skye June.jpg
      Sun PZ.jpg
      Sun Skye.jpg
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016 edited
     
    Only one pic came thro ST

    Any idea what's difference in what I see from Google results suncalc.net vs suncalc.org?
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016
     
    Give me time Tom
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016
     
    Let’s come back to normal homes being built for normal people in towns….

    Just how much control is there over the window locations once practical issue of the site is taken into account? Shading is also a issue when the sun is low in the sky.

    My wife expect any window that someone my see in to have blinds…..

    Most people are only at home at this time of year for 2 days a week when the sun is out…
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016
     
    Posted By: SteamyTeaYou may find that having some SE and SW facing windows helps in the winter and is not too affected in the summer.

    I'm not sure what point you're trying to make.

    You get more solar gain through east and west windows in summer than winter, AIUI. Because the sun travels through a larger arc and is higher in the sky.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016
     
    Most towns are a radial design, so there is often a lot of choice.
    Villages are different as they usually only have two main roads.

    Maybe a quick letter to the Daily Mail pointing out that widows can let in light, and this may kill some people will get a few responses.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016 edited
     
    Posted By: djhI'm not sure what point you're trying to make.
    Geometry is the point I am making.
    It is not just the 'arc' (really called azimuth) but also the altitude of the sun.
    In the summer, the altitude may be high enough to not affect the SE and SW windows too badly.

    It really comes down to what you are trying to achieve.
    But just saying 'I will have lots of south facing windows to help with solar gain' is a bit simplistic and really misses the point of good design.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016
     
    Posted By: ringiLet’s come back to normal homes being built for normal people in towns….

    Just how much control is there over the window locations once practical issue of the site is taken into account?

    There's usually a lot more than you might think. Zedfactory comes to mind as having a set of plans that can be adapted to any orientation.

    The problem tends to be a refusal by the developers and designers to even consider it. I know of a recent case where our local councillor got nowhere when he suggested solar orientation be considered for a big development.

    Shading is also a issue when the sun is low in the sky.

    My wife expect any window that someone my see in to have blinds…..

    Most people are only at home at this time of year for 2 days a week when the sun is out…

    Agreed that shading is a much bigger issue in winter. Fortunately, the type of blinds preferred by wives are typically inside, so any heat they absorb is inside the building, though I agree it's better to let the sunlight strike some absorber deeper in the room. People not being at home seems like a feature, since you can leave the blinds open.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016 edited
     
    Is there actually a net gain for south facing windows in December or January? I think I calculated that there was, just, and somewhat to my surprise.

    Is that net gain actually greater than the gain you'd get from building more wall or roof and less window area and spending the money saved on PV? Again, my recollection was that it wasn't.

    I think you should build the windows you need for a nice view, summer ventilation, escape, and so on then get any further solar gain via solar panels (PV or thermal, but let's not get distracted by that discussion) because, though they're less efficient they:

    1) work one way - they don't have the losses that windows do on cloudy days and at night and

    2) allow you to direct where the heat goes (into a thermal store) whereas gain through a window directly heats the room and so is awkward to store - you have to overheat the room to push the heat into a store at a useful temperature.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016
     
    Posted By: SteamyTea
    Posted By: djhI'm not sure what point you're trying to make.
    Geometry is the point I am making.
    It is not just the 'arc' (really called azimuth) but also the altitude of the sun.
    In the summer, the altitude may be high enough to not affect the SE and SW windows too badly.

    I think you'll find that east and west exposure are problematic, as compared to southern exposure, precisely because they ARE affected to a considerably greater extent by low altitude sun. And that sun is more difficult to screen effectively. If you think you know something different, I'd appreciate a link to a reputable source.

    It really comes down to what you are trying to achieve.
    But just saying 'I will have lots of south facing windows to help with solar gain' is a bit simplistic and really misses the point of good design.

    I think we're agreed about that.
    • CommentAuthorGreenfish
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016 edited
     
    Could you use permitted development to "fill in" with some extensions.....

    Sadly no, all PD removed, can't even have a garden shed without permission :(
    And planning made it clear that any application of anything was unlikely to be succesful.

    But the location is amazing, and I love my home (I just know it is a silly shape with no justification for it). Oh and I have put up a garden shed, there is no one to see it except cows in summer. Should I ever be challenged I will fight for it then, after all it is a temp structure really no slab or anything.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016 edited
     
    Posted By: Ed DaviesIs there actually a net gain for south facing windows in December or January? I think I calculated that there was, just, and somewhat to my surprise.

    Yes, there is.

    Is that net gain actually greater than the gain you'd get from building more wall or roof and less window area and spending the money saved on PV? Again, my recollection was that it wasn't.

    I don't know but your conclusion wouldn't surprise me.

    I think you should build the windows you need for a nice view, summer ventilation, escape, and so on then get any further solar gain via solar panels

    Don't forget the primary reason for windows - daylighting! The 'nice view' argument is frequently overdone and is a common cause of windows that are too large. Better design can achieve nice views with more reasonably sized windows.

    because, though they're less efficient they:

    1) work one way - they don't have the losses that windows do on cloudy days and at night and

    2) allow you to direct where the heat goes (into a thermal store) whereas gain through a window directly heats the room and so is awkward to store - you have to overheat the room to push the heat into a store at a useful temperature.

    Agreed. I think that's part of the rationale for the substitution of PER for PE in PHPP and I think there's a move to allow active cooling, as long as it is renewably powered.

    edit: grammar.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016
     
    Posted By: Greenfish
    Could you use permitted development to "fill in" with some extensions.....


    Sadly no, all PD removed, can't even have a garden shed without permission :(
    And planning made it clear that any application of anything was unlikely to be succesful.


    What about filling the gaps with tall, fast growing, thick and dense hedging...
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016
     
    Posted By: GreenfishSadly no, all PD removed, can't even have a garden shed without permission :(
    Same here.
    I think it is a Cornish thing. What the rest of the country calls a shed, we call a Chalet and can rent them out at £600/week in the summer.

    When an old industrial, dirty, run down, polluting and bankrupt mining area is allowed to become a World Heritage site, you know that something has gone seriously wrong in people's heads.
    • CommentAuthorGreenfish
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016
     
    Posted By: ringiWhat about filling the gaps with tall, fast growing, thick and dense hedging...

    I am surrounded by gorse at it is, nature will do that left uninterrupted. But not sure how that mitigates the energy loss down to the shape of the house?
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016
     
    Posted By: Greenfish
    Posted By: ringiWhat about filling the gaps with tall, fast growing, thick and dense hedging...

    I am surrounded by gorse at it is, nature will do that left uninterrupted. But not sure how that mitigates the energy loss down to the shape of the house?


    A hedge that is higher then your roof will trap air and hence could provide some insulation benefit.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016
     
    Posted By: djhAgreed. I think that's part of the rationale for the substitution of PER for PE in PHPP and I think there's a move to allow active cooling, as long as it is renewably powered.
    What are PER and PE?

    Does that change fix what I've always thought was a flaw in PH: allowing gain through windows but not through PV panels?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016 edited
     
    Posted By: Ed Daviesthough they're less efficient they:

    1) work one way - they don't have the losses that windows do on cloudy days and at night and

    2) allow you to direct where the heat goes (into a thermal store) whereas gain through a window directly heats the room and so is awkward to store - you have to overheat the room to push the heat into a store at a useful temperature.
    Concisely put Dave [Edit - sorry - Ed] - I'm remembering how many years it's taken to get it that clear, even on GBF. And many other similar understandings, which have come from almost nowhere (speak for myself) during the years I've frequented this forum. We have made progress!
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016 edited
     
    Posted By: Ed Davies
    Posted By: djhAgreed. I think that's part of the rationale for the substitution of PER for PE in PHPP and I think there's a move to allow active cooling, as long as it is renewably powered.
    What are PER and PE?

    PE = Primary Energy. What PHI has limited to 120 kWH/m²/year. The sum of all the gas, coal, wood, electricity the PH uses, each multiplied by a fudge factor. PV is totally ignored. Solar thermal reduces the PE.
    PER = Primary Energy Renewable. What PHI now limits to 60 kWH/m²/year. What the PHI thinks the house would use if powered from a hypothetical future 'renewable grid'. PV reduces this, as does solar thermal or other local renewable resources.
    Google should provide more info.

    Does that change fix what I've always thought was a flaw in PH: allowing gain through windows but not through PV panels?

    Probably yes. But it makes the whole methodology even more baroque IMHO. And opens the door to EPC-like manipulation and worse. Having said that, the revision benefits me personally, so maybe I shouldn't be too critical :shocked:
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016
     
    Posted By: fostertomConcisely put Dave

    It was Ed wot said it, actually.

    Whilst I agree with what he said, I would also add something he didn't say.

    Having restrained your window sizes and saved some money, one option is to spend the savings on PV to get solar gain another way. But another option is to save the money and buy the power from the grid. Which may leave some cash to put into more efficient schemes like big turbines.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016
     
    Posted By: djhProbably yes. But it makes the whole methodology even more baroque IMHO.
    Yep, it's difficult. I definitely wouldn't support offsetting exports in August against imports in January, for example; that's outside the scope of house design. But if I'm OK with storing heat in the concrete floor on a bright day in late December to use on a dull day early in January why wouldn't I be with storing it in the community's Tesla Powerpack for the same period? It's not obvious.

    Similarly, there's the question of leaving cash aside to invest in big turbines which then gets spent on flying off on holiday somewhere.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeNov 29th 2016 edited
     
    Posted By: Ed Davieswhy wouldn't I be with storing it in the community's Tesla Powerpack for the same period? It's not obvious.


    Because everyone else will be doing the same and the storage is not increased as part of your build, but why can't yo invest some of your build fund in better stoves for the 3rd world that use less wood then an open fire...... (I don't find there is a better way to save CO2 based on cost.)
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2016
     
    Posted By: ringiBecause everyone else will be doing the same and the storage is not increased as part of your build
    I'm thinking of some sort of community storage for an organization like Marstal district heating, Drake Landing, Bedzed, Hockerton HP or the Eigg trust where the storage is, in some sense, part of the build [¹].

    …but why can't yo invest some of your build fund in better stoves for the 3rd world that use less wood then an open fire...... (I don't find there is a better way to save CO2 based on cost.)
    Let's not start that argument again (at least on this thread) but I do want to note that not everybody would agree with the COâ‚‚ bit of that.

    But, agreed, the line between house design and “offsetting” is not obvious.

    [¹] Bedzed and Hockerton don't have community storage but they are examples of organizations where multiple dwellings have shared energy facilities at a smaller scale than the grid and where communal storage could have been a plausible part of the design.
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2016
     
    Posted By: Ed DaviesIs there actually a net gain for south facing windows in December or January? I think I calculated that there was, just, and somewhat to my surprise.

    Ignoring the re-allocation of resources to wall or PV, are we talking in all cases here or only for certain ratios or values of U and G? Is it just that in a [heat] leaky house there is still a net gain, just that it's lost pretty soon after the sun goes down?
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2016
     
    One way to encourage energy sharing resources would be to make it compulsory to have a minimum storage capacity and disallow own consumption from it.
    Or in other words, small scale local storage on the grid side of the meter.

    Actually I think I suggested similar a couple of years back. Get the power companies/national grid to install a kWh of storage at each house (where they can). By using a small scale system they can install as funds allow, it will probably not impact grid reliability and save them having to reinforce the local grid.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2016 edited
     
    Posted By: gravelld…are we talking in all cases here or only for certain ratios or values of U and G? Is it just that in a [heat] leaky house there is still a net gain, just that it's lost pretty soon after the sun goes down?
    Sorry, I don't remember the details but the calculations were for a specific house in Northern Ireland with large windows facing somewhat off south with a clear horizon (overlooking a loch). Can't remember, either, if the discussion was on here or another forum. I used PVGIS to get the insolation on to the windows and HDD data for heat loss.

    (I was setting out to show that there wasn't a net gain so was a bit surprised by the result. “He who refuses to do arithmetic is doomed to talk nonsense.” [¹])

    Yes, the U and G values will be relevant, of course. These were new windows but not particularly highly specced (good double glazing, I think) so I think it's probably reasonably generally true that you get a net gain as long as you're sensible. I doubt there was a net gain in the big single glazed window in the static caravan I was in last winter, for example.

    In a way a leaky house ought to have a higher net gain as, presumably, indoor temperatures will be lower if the heating is off overnight or when unoccupied so losses through the window will be less. On the other hand, if it's unoccupied during many days the gains in the daytime will be less useful.

    [¹] https://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/John_McCarthy_(computer_scientist)#1990s
  1.  
    Trying to be a little provocative, here’s some more ideas on the theme of building geometry and heat loss described above. Imagine a building of 125m². If it’s square and single storey that’s 11.2m x 11.2m, so 44.8m perimeter. Cut it in half and put one on top gives two stories of 11.2m x 5.6m, so 67.2m perimeter, which is a 50% increase. Even making it square, two stories of 7.9m x 7.9m gives a 63.2m perimeter, so still a 41% increase. Now I know that the single storey building has twice the floor and roof area, but in most situations it is relatively easy and cheap to double insulation there to compensate for that. It’s almost certainly cheaper than building 41% more wall. So I would argue that when the relative ease of insulating the different faces of a building is taken into consideration that a bungalow could be the most thermally efficient shape.:bigsmile:
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2016 edited
     
    OK, I'm provoked. Looking at the square versions and assuming a 2.7 m storey height:

    2 storey: roof and floors both 62.5 m², walls 170.64 m² (total 295.64 m²).
    1 storey: roof and floors both 125 m², walls 120.96 m² (total 370.96 m²),

    Assuming ceilings and floors are the same cost to insulate and walls are a factor w times more then for the two forms to match on price:

    (2 × 62.5) + 170.64w = (2 × 125) + 120.96w
    49.68w = 125
    w ~= 2.5

    Even assuming walls are a bit more expensive to insulate I doubt they're two and half times as much.

    Also, with the single storey version parts of rooms are further from the edges so to get decent natural lighting you'll need more window area which is a) expensive and b) needs better insulation to compensate for its losses. Also, you'll need them all round making any bias towards putting them on the south harder to achieve.
   
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