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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
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    • CommentAuthorJulesbarn
    • CommentTimeOct 23rd 2016
     
    Hello everyone,
    I've just joined this brilliant forum,and firstly I'm seeking help with a dilemma in my recently completed barn conversion.

    I did all the work myself,and we love the results,but I was probably given some not so good advice along the way.we have a 390 l thermal store located on the small,first floor (rooms I'm the roof,so low volume as well as floor area),which is served by a 14kw wood boiler stove in the sitting room near the stairs. (Solar thermal yet to be fitted; coil waiting at the bottom of the store). The system seems to work really well; with plate heat exchanger for dhw,ground floor ufh,and a small radiator circuit on first floor which we will probably never use : (

    Our problem is that it gets too hot upstairs for our two daughters bedrooms, sometimes even when the stove is not lit,but the store is hot.(me and partner,have gf bedroom which is cool if we want). As a result,the girls insist on opening the roof windows to cool their rooms,thus letting a lot of precious heat out and noticeably cooling down the ground floor. It really frustrates me; i meticulously fitted a lot of insulation in the roof, and even used a perlite/lime backing plaster on the thick cob walls for that extra bit of warmth (perhaps?!?).

    My thoughts on how i can improve the situation are....

    1. Add loads more insulation around the thermal store itself - which I'm in the process of doing,

    2. Insulate the ts cupboard doors- done that, with 25mm celotex,

    3. Add more insulation to the ts cupboard itself,

    4. Tell the girls to shut their bedroom doors if their windows are open - they don't always, so I'm often trotting up the stairs to check.. A real hassle!

    5. Fit door closers on their bedroom doors - "dad, you're getting a bit anal about all this heat loss stuff !" ,

    6. Somehow fitting a fan somewhere clever to either send heat from the ts cupboard,or ff in general,downstairs to equalise the temperature of the barn.

    I can't isolate the two floors,the landing is tiny so a door at the top of the stairs wouldn't work,or comply with regs, and the bottom of the(kinda) spiral stairs are open to the sitting room and a very beautiful feature,and i aint moving the store downstairs...there's nowhere it can sensibly go (and the thought of re-routing all the plumbing..!)

    Soo, I'd love to know your thoughts; if any or which of my ideas,would help remedy the situation. Of course,it's not all the thermal store's fault,bless it...the woody puts out 5 kw max to space (officially),and,as i said, it's located near the stairs. Oh,and by the way,all first floor voids are well insulated,with super good underlay n carrpet above!

    Many thanks, (as i have gone on a bit)

    Jules
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTimeOct 23rd 2016 edited
     
    Maybe you could consider removing existing insulation, then surround the thermal store with mass walls on as many sides as you can manage (such as concrete blocks), then insulate on the outside (room side) of the blocks with (say) 100 mm XPS and PB...

    Then (hopefully & if you get it right) any leakage through the mass would occur when the room is unoccupied (i.e. they are out at school...).

    gg
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 23rd 2016
     
    Turn the store temperature down, insulate all the pipes, is the store 4x spray insulated?

    Insulation would be better than thermal mass.

    Fan system or HVHR to circulate the unwanted heat.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 23rd 2016
     
    I think we need yet more details before we start prescribing. Sorry.

    I have a 250 L thermal store, which sits in a cupboard. The temperature on the outside of the standard insulation is 26°C and on the outside of the cupboard is 23°C. The store itself is at 85°C because it's solar-powered and I want to store as much heat as possible.

    Jeremy, late of Navitron, late of this parish, late of ebuild, now of buildhub I believe, had a similar store that caused him similar troubles to yours but we never got to the bottom of why before he swapped it out.

    So I'd like to ask for some temperature readings (with a handheld IR thermometer is easiest and can quickly identify local problems) and also for some drawings - a floor plan of your first floor and relevant detail drawings of your thermal store in its cupboard. Particularly, what separates the cupboard from the bedrooms? I think a ventilated space would be best.

    FWIW, my store is in our utility room so I don't much care about the temperature although it is always perfectly reasonable in there. I'd really like to understand why some thermal stores cause problems. There's nothing special about mine.
    • CommentAuthorJulesbarn
    • CommentTimeOct 23rd 2016
     
    Thanks for the responces..

    Gyro,i simply don't have the space to add thrmal mass such as conc blocks,and would be concerned about the added weight on my joists. Tony,the store seldom gets above 65-70°c in normal use (remember we only have the wood stove at the mo; solar to come later. If we push the temp up beyond that with the stove, it tends to get a bit too warm downstairs (at this time of year) I've insulated all the pipes. What do you mean by 4x,spray foamed? The tank as standard only has 40mm insulation,so I'm in the process off adding as much as i can; basically a celotex 'box' around the store with the space between box and store filled with mineral wool.Not sure how to tackle the busy side of the store ,with all the bosses,pipes etc. I like the idea of a fan system though. Should i take heat from the girl's rooms,or from the ts cupboard? Djh, I'm sorry,I'm not able to provide a floor plan or temperature readings right now; though it would be useful to have an ir thermometer. Suffice to say,the store cupboard is right against one bedroom,and the store is a very tight fit in there.

    Iwas half expecting to be told it was simply heat from the woody going upstairs! But given all your responses,i think it best for me to carry on adding as much insulation as i can around the store,and also the cupboard, and see how that helps. If the girls are still too hot and opening windows, i may fit a fan to take heat directly from the ts cupboard to downstairs,perhaps to our cooler gf bedroom if possible.

    Tbh,,i have been suprised at how quickly the store cools down when theres no heating on or showers etc used. I guess 40mm insulation isn't much.

    Thanks to everyone for your help and ideas. I'll let you know how i get on.

    Cheers

    Jules
  1.  
    Note the difference with the stove alight and TS hot and stove out (downstairs coolish) and the TS hot. This may give a better idea what is heating the bedroom. Keep stuffing insulation into the TS cupboard, but be careful not to insulate things that should not be insulated (e.g. the motor part of pumps and solenoid part of any motorised valves)

    You say the TS cools fairly quickly even with no load. This could indicate a lack of insulation (my TS has 30cm of glass wool around and 50cm on the top)

    A fan to take heat away may help if you can't keep the heat in the TS but you would be better to try to keep the heat in the TS where it belongs. But caution with a fan because you could finish up with your daughters complaining that it is either too noisy to sleep - or too hot to sleep.

    And yes the heat from the stove will be going upstairs and will compound the problem with any heat loss from the TS, but which gives the greater part of the problem?
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeOct 23rd 2016
     
    40 mm of insulation is not a lot but something else to consider is the insulation on the pipes to or from the store which needs to be good for a surprisingly long way from the store to stop losing heat along them.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 23rd 2016
     
    Posted By: JulesbarnSuffice to say,the store cupboard is right against one bedroom,and the store is a very tight fit in there.

    That would most probably account for why that bedroom gets hot. Does the other one get as hot?

    Tbh,,i have been suprised at how quickly the store cools down when theres no heating on or showers etc used. I guess 40mm insulation isn't much.

    I would guess it's more likely to be losing heat through the associated pipework than from the store itself.

    You really should get an IR thermometer. They're available at screwfix or maplin or lots of other places. That will help decide exactly what the problem is and so where to direct your efforts (and money).
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeOct 23rd 2016
     
    Julesbarn - something like this might work:

    http://www.treehugger.com/gadgets/totally-tubular-innovative-fans-redistribute-hot-ceiling-air-floor-warmer-rooms-lower-heating-costs.html

    I don't know the layout of your house but would it be possible to have the top of the tube close to the ceiling inside the TS cupboard and the bottom end near the floor of the room below?

    Too late now obviously but I wonder why you put the thermal store on the first floor? The water plus the store itself is almost half a ton in weight - that's a heck of a load on the floor joists! That's why mine is on the ground floor (concrete). It is difficult to retrospectively insulate the store as I have found to my cost. I should have gone for a much thicker foam layer to start with as I cannot insulate the store as I would like because of all the pipe connections, immersion heaters etc. Our TS is in a cloakroom so it comes in handy for drying out wet coats etc! I did think about putting a fan in the door so as to extract the warm air from the cloakroom and blow it into the hallway but have never got around to it.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeOct 24th 2016 edited
     
    Posted By: djhJeremy, late of Navitron, late of this parish, late of ebuild, now of buildhub I believe, had a similar store that caused him similar troubles to yours but we never got to the bottom of why before he swapped it out.
    He fitted a Sunamp thermal store in the end.
    He is also late of Buildhub (he gets himself into some terrible scrapes :wink:)
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 24th 2016
     
    Posted By: djhYou really should get an IR thermometer. They're available at screwfix or maplin or lots of other places. That will help decide exactly what the problem is and so where to direct your efforts (and money).

    Of course you already come equipped with a fairly good temperature sensor - the Mk 1 hand. Unfortunately, it's quite difficult to calibrate, but it's pretty good for deciding whether pipes are cold, warm or hot. Go and feel all the pipes connected to the store - any that are hot are definitely losing heat, any that are warm need more investigation.
    • CommentAuthorJulesbarn
    • CommentTimeOct 24th 2016
     
    Peter,that's a good idea..to know how much the woody is contributing to thr heat on the ff. And i will order an ir thermometer today. I like to know what's going on! I'm still insulating the ts today and will end up with at least the amount you have. Rockwool,celotex,(all leftovers),foil tape and exp. Foam. Not very green,but keeping heat in is eh.

    ALL hw pipes are insulated everywhere in the barn,but i wonder,what's the best way to upgrade those at/near the thermal store. It's only budget pipe lagging,fixed with cable ties and some tape(which falls off), but id rather leave it there and add something aroumd it. I've checked all pipes temp as far as i can to make sure there's no unwanted gravity/thermosiphon movement.

    The bedroom next to the ts cupboard is the hottest,and the twinwall flue (boxed in and vented top and bottom) also runs through this room. (Another error,and something i forgot to mention). Would it be wise to stuff rockwall in there?
    I know I've made plenty of mistakes with this barn conversion (not ALL my fault, unless accepting bad advice without knowing it is my fault!),but the ff heat issue is by far the biggest problem.

    I do wish now that i put the ts on the gf, but the only place i could realistically put it would be a long way from the kitchen hot tap. On the ff,it is nicely central between kitchen and bathrooms. The weight really isn't an issue imo. I made the stairs with chunky (greenish) oak(dry now,and lovely! ),and they provide super strong bracing of the ts area.

    Digressing a little... The conversion was one of the hardest things ive ever done(but hugely rewarding) and became very stressful; i was working way to hard,and actually made myself unwell toward the end (feeling bad about my girls living in a rapidly decaying static caravan for so much longer than anticipated). I just worked; and didn't give enough time to careful planning of the heating system. I left a lot of that to my partner,who spoke with many heating engineers,plumbers,and the suppliers of the ts,and the wood stove; and,as i said,we wer probably given some bad advice.so,the result is not ideal. But saying all that,I'm optimistic that things will be (more or less) fine,heat-wise.

    One reason we chose the ts we have is that it could fit up the stairs and in the space available on the ff.(bad planning again!)

    We all make mistakes,and I'm certainly not losing sleep over this one! Thanks for all your input..keep it coming! I'll update when the insulating is done; but i would appreciate advice on whether to insulate the twinwall boxing in. Would it comply with regs..or is it best done post-sign off !?! (Or not at all ?)

    Cheers,

    Jules
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 24th 2016
     
    One more question - what ventilation do you have? Especially in the bedrooms and the thermal store cupboard?
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTimeOct 24th 2016
     
    Posted By: Julesbarni simply don't have the space to add thrmal mass such as conc blocks


    maybe you need some magical utra-thin insulative coating ?

    gg
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeOct 24th 2016
     
    When I insulated my DHW cylinder and cupboard, I reduced losses by about 2 kWh/day (cylinder is 200lt and I run it at 50°C).
    So that is power reduction of about 90W. So could be well worth doing as you are running hotter and have a larger surface area on your cylinder.

    The quick and easy way to stop overheating may be to put a fan in and just pump that hot air out to somewhere else. Somewhere else may well be outside, or to a colder part of the building. Just depends how easy the route is i.e can you put in some boxing and pump it downstairs.
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeOct 24th 2016
     
    Did you do the calcs for the TS? If not, who did? Did they use the actual heat loss figures for the house?
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeOct 24th 2016
     
    Photos of the store would be good. I have just bought a load of K-Flex insulation from http://www.insulationandlagging.co.uk/Pipe-Insulation-Lagging/K-Flex-Class-0-Rubber-Pipe-Insulation and put it on my TS and it has made a huge difference.

    I worked out sizes so I doubled up the insulation to a minimum of 22mm wall thickness on a 22mm pipe, and more for some of the hotter pipes. I also bought the glue so the joints are all properly sealed and also some tape for pipe joints that would be difficult to insulate otherwise.

    My TS is in the integral garage (to prevent such overheating) but the garage was always a bit warm. Having eventually insulated the pipes properly it has made a huge difference.

    Broken out the IR thermometer (measurements taken at same level on tank):
    Ambient fabric 16
    Internal Tank 65
    Surface of tank 18
    External pipe on entry to tank 22 (2x13mm wall thickness 28mm pipe)
    External pipe 50mm from tank 20 (no flow)

    Actually on entry to the tank insulation is thinner as there are some big fittings.

    I do feel that glueing the insulation makes a big difference to the efficiency of the insulation.
    • CommentAuthorJulesbarn
    • CommentTimeOct 24th 2016
     
    Djh..no ventilation in the ts cupboard. Why on earth should there be? The bedrooms have big velux type roof windows with high spec dg,and little closeable vents at top. Steamy tea (drinking one now), not suprised at how much you reduced your heat loss. I did a bit of insulating yesterday, removed a bit this morning to improve it, and the outside skin of the ts was really hot,so vast improvement already,and I've not even done a third of the insulation. Using a fan has been discussed..i can prob vent this to a cooler gf room if needed.

    The ts calcs were done by the supplier according to our needs;..dhw,ufh,rads,volume of barn,glazing sizes and spec. Accurate Heat loss calcs for walls and roof would have been very very hard to calculate as there are so many different elements;..600mm cob,800mm cob with homemade perlite/lime plaster,600 stone lined with air gap & 75 celotex,pb &skim, 220 block also with 75mm celotex etc. Roof,mostly 225mm celotex,some 150 celotex...you get the picture!.. So heat loss/insulation wise,we just went with,'good'!! I was meticulous with the insulating; filled every tiny gap,vapour barriers etc. God knows how much i spent on expanding foam and foil tape!
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 24th 2016
     
    Posted By: JulesbarnDjh..no ventilation in the ts cupboard. Why on earth should there be? The bedrooms have big velux type roof windows with high spec dg,and little closeable vents at top.

    Well, we're discussing adding ventilation to the cupboard is why; I asked more for completeness. So the house is passively ventilated, with trickle vents and extraction fans in bathrooms?

    My guess is that extracting air from around the thermal store will help - do make sure it isn't drawing air through the insulation. If the 'hot' bedroom is still too hot, I would make small air channels alongside the wall of that bedroom, perhaps using corrogated cardboard or twinwall polycarbonate to form air tubes, and make sure the fan is drawing air through those tubes.

    But a few measurements with your IR thermometer when it arrives will confirm exactly where the problem is coming from.
    • CommentAuthorJulesbarn
    • CommentTimeOct 24th 2016
     
    Djh,my mistake,i thought you were suggesting there should be ventilation in the ts cupboard as standard (when it was built,as it were,) before realising there was an excess heat problem.

    Yes,trickle vents ,and extractors in bathrooms. Today,i have fitted lots more insulation (not finished yet),and already I'm noticing the ts is holding it's heat better. Once I've finished,i reckon my problem will be pretty much resolved. I just didn't realise how rubbish the factory fitted insulation was until now!

    How to tackle the 'front' of the store?...with all the pipe connections,pumps,etc. I'm thinking..keep all cables,pumps,wiring centre etc outside the insulation for starters. If i tried to make some kind of jacket with holes for the pipes,and slots to feed the jacket over the pipes (does that make sense?),it would be an incredibly complicated creation! Any ideas?
  2.  
    I used glass wool to insulate my TS and cut the wool for best fit around the pipes and then stuffed bits of glass wool into any holes left to complete the jacket. When it was done I covered the whole lot in a plastic sheet taped and tied together with special attention around the pipes. Not the most pleasant job I have ever done!!! Luckily there are no pumps etc within the insulation jacket volume. If you have such then you will have to contrive some shielding to keep the insulation off the pumps and alike. (or move them)

    By the way my TS is 2000lts and came without any factory insulation, so took a fair amount of glass wool.
    • CommentAuthorJulesbarn
    • CommentTimeOct 24th 2016
     
    I could maybe make a jacket with bubble foil type stuff,and even stick something,preferably non itchy,to the inside of the jacket?
      IMG_20161024_205911~01.jpg
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeOct 24th 2016
     
    Posted By: SteamyTea

    The quick and easy way to stop overheating may be to put a fan in and just pump that hot air out to somewhere else. Somewhere else may well be outside, or to a colder part of the building. Just depends how easy the route is i.e can you put in some boxing and pump it downstairs.


    I think maybe Julesbarn has missed my post above where I suggest the same idea. It's what I would do but I don't know the layout of the house so it may not be possible to find a suitable place to discretely place the necessary duct?
    • CommentAuthorJulesbarn
    • CommentTimeOct 24th 2016
     
    No,sorry i was aware of the suggestions to add a fan. A senior moment on my part perhaps.
    IF the insulation doesn't do the trick, there is a very discreet route ducting could take,not to the coolest gf room,but much better than venting it outside and wasted.

    Many thanks

    Jules
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeOct 25th 2016
     
    Posted By: JulesbarnNo,sorry i was aware of the suggestions to add a fan. A senior moment on my part perhaps.
    IF the insulation doesn't do the trick, there is a very discreet route ducting could take,not to the coolest gf room,but much better than venting it outside and wasted.

    Many thanks

    Jules


    Oh good - worth considering I think, especially if you can get a low energy fan.
    • CommentAuthorJulesbarn
    • CommentTimeOct 25th 2016
     
    Update...

    Today i kinda finished the extra insulation. Used old duvet/pillow innards (re-fluffed up)for around the pipe connections etc.,as it's non itchy,i had it lying around in the old static caravan waiting to be upcycled,and it's easy to remove for any maintenance etc. The rest is celotex and mineral wool (lots).

    I can already tell the ts is holding it's heat like never before,and the ff is a LOT cooler. This is a MASSIVE improvement; and I've still to sort the pipe insulation properly. AND...i still have the option of a fan if needs be. I'm very happy. Never knew how rubbish the insulation on the ts was. Ive left cables and pumps exposed (just...see pic) If anyone thinks the pumps will get too warm,please comment. Can't see why they would personally; they are designed to pump hot water..or am i missing something.

    Many thanks
      IMG_20161025_175439~01.jpg
    • CommentAuthorJulesbarn
    • CommentTimeOct 25th 2016
     
    ..and I've never typed the word 'insulation' so many flippin times in me life!!
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeOct 25th 2016
     
    Insulation is great isn't it.
    Just one thing to be careful off now you have insulated it, and you may already know about it/catered for it, is any power cabling needed to be outside the insulation or upgraded.
    • CommentAuthorJulesbarn
    • CommentTimeOct 25th 2016
     
    Yep steamy,just said that above. Will the pumps be happy only just outside the ins.?
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeOct 25th 2016
     
    The insulation on most stored water systems is woefully inadequate. I'm not surprised this is looking like the cause.
   
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