Tue, 19 Dec 2023 03:56:55 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17784 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17784 Sat, 18 Mar 2023 12:11:06 +0000 djh
One on replacing S106 contributions with a "new, improved" system. And one on replacing 'overcomplicated EU environmental regulations' with a "new, improved" system.

The S106 proposal mentions moving the liability from the start of a project (during planning) to the end, to capture increases in land value. I can see how it will improve developers' cashflow, and I suspect it might lead to one-off development companies that are liquidated just before the project is completed, but I haven't read the consultations yet :devil:

https://www.gov.uk/government/news/new-levy-to-make-sure-developers-pay-fair-share-for-affordable-housing-and-local-infrastructure]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15519 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15519 Tue, 23 Jan 2018 11:02:10 +0000 Rex
I seem to be the local 'expert' because I built a house!

An elderly lady a few doors away is having a ground floor problem that is being handled by her insurance company. Basically, I don't know how the house is constructed (built around 40 years ago) but I don't think there is an air gap under the ground floor, not that that should make nay difference to the issue.

Around three years ago, she had a bad gutter leak that resulted in water dripping through the lounge ceiling and onto the oak flooring. The ceiling did not collapse. The leak was cured, the ceiling plasterboard replaced and floor was allowed to dry out and new oak tiles stuck down with bitumen.

All good until six months ago, when the oak tiles started to lift in a number of places on this newly laid floor. The original flooring has absolutely no problems. After a lot of umming and arring, the insurance company have finally taken a second repair on board. They have decided to remove the previously 'wet' section screed, and have cut it all out, down to the DPC level. I guess they will be replacing it with a sand / cement mix before replacing the floor tiles.

I am sure they will want to get on the job ASAP, but since they will need to replace around 60 mm + of screed, I am guessing they will just allow the calculated dry time, lay the lies and get her to sign a disclaimer of some kind.

So my question is, how much longer should 60mm (that is a guess) take to dry to a point where wooden tiles can be laid without future issues? Does leaving longer than the recommend time reduce the moisture level? She does not have UFH, so there is no way to improve the curing time.

Toodle pip and thanks

Rex]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17782 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17782 Fri, 17 Mar 2023 18:44:48 +0000 Devlin
I want to apply a form of external insulation to my 1900 Victorian house. I’ve come across two insulating, breathable renders in my research:

https://www.coreconservation.co.uk/termorasante-aerogel-thermal-lime-plaster/

https://proofshield.co.uk/product/prooftherm-insulating-render-plaster/

I guess my question here is - are these really worth it? Is it better to just pay more for insulation boards and do it that way?

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17775 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17775 Mon, 13 Mar 2023 21:01:23 +0000 number_thirty_three
In the attached photo (of my own handiwork), what I'm unclear about is:

how to make the insulation continuous between the warm flat roof construction and the vertical rear wall. In my drawing, there's a big gaping cold bridge between the fascia board and the inside.

I can see a couple of options, but is there a 'best practice' for this fairly common problem statement?

All the manufacturer's details show just one plane of detail - the warm flat roof, or a timber frame wall, there is a paucity of details showing the joins!

Options I've come up with:

1) Simple but probably won't work - Add a chunk of PIR at the end of the joists to make it wrap around - and hope that the fascia can be attached to that through to the joist end

2) Kinda complicated - add a modest depth of insulation to the end of the joists (say, 20mm) so that the fascia can be screwed through into the joist ends still; then place 150mm or more inbetween the joists where the joists overhang; then insulate the external side of the wall plate atop the stud wall.

(also, welcome any constructive criticism on any other elements of the detail)]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17778 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17778 Tue, 14 Mar 2023 15:44:49 +0000 Rex
Over the past 12 years, my t/f house has developed some settlement cracks at the Fermacel wall / plasterboard ceiling corner. There is no plaster on the walls or ceiling, but probably some 'filler' was used where necessary.

On a few of the previous vertical corner settlement cracks, I glued paper tape with PVA and painted / smoothed until no longer visible.

It is quite a lot of work and am wondering if decorators caulk, squeezed into the crack (that will be challenging as they are pretty small) will be an easier, and long term solution. If necessary, I am sorta happy to do the tape again, but as I say, quite a lot of work is involved,

Thoughts gratefully received.

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17779 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17779 Wed, 15 Mar 2023 11:30:41 +0000 djh
I always found his thoughts refreshing and helpful :cry: :cry: :cry:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17771 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17771 Wed, 08 Mar 2023 13:48:53 +0000 Rex
Went on my annual pilgrimage to FutureBuild yesterday. Seems to me, when I was called EcoBuild, an company with a product that included the 'eco' exhibited. No longer the case as the buzz words have become, smart, sustainable, environmentally friendly or net zero.

One stand had a shower that is both smart and sustainable. What is a sustainable shower? Could not be bothered to hang around for a free expert to inform me as I come from a cynical position and I doubt that he would have converted me.

Rustins had a stand with G-Therm and G-Insulate paint. Perhaps the G-Therm with graphene is good but the G-Insulate claims of a 21% energy saving from a coat of paint seem like snake oil; but what do I know?

https://www.rustins.ltd/rustins/our-products/speciality-paints/g-therm-thermal-heating-paint

How about wooden nails? Buzzwords are "rethought fastening, sustainable technology." Probably a good idea but in conversation with the guy, he was extolling the virtue of reduced cold bridging and better fire resistance as there is no metal to radiate heat. How much of a problem is cold bridging from nails? www.beck-fastening.com

Some of the PV displays were interesting, particularly one from a Welsh based company, that really does look like a slate tile. Did they have one on display? No, because they are concerned about copying of the product; only photos! https://www.gb-sol.co.uk/products/pvslates/default.htm

GSHP. A number of stands but they all suggest that the cost of a bore hole is so high that it is not practical for an individual build. Since I am not building a block of flats, not a lot of use.

One of my 'soap box' topics was extremely thin on the ground. Why do we use potable water for toilet flushing? There should be compulsory rainwater collection for that purpose installed in every new build, but next to no stands that I could see.

But at the end of the day, guess I had an interesting time.

Toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17772 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17772 Wed, 08 Mar 2023 22:55:24 +0000 bgasparotto
We recently moved into our 1910 Victorian (Edwardian?) house and are insulating it. The house sits in a conservation area so EWI is not an option, so we are going the breathable IWI route (wood fibre for walls and floors).

Currently we stripped most of the walls from old paint and wallpaper back to the original lime-plaster, so since we already in the mess, we are considering replacing our lath-and-plaster ceilings.

Before we moved, a full buildings survey report noted our ceilings are saggy in places and might need replacing. I am all for keeping the house as original as possible, but since I know lath and plaster decay over time and we will be renovating for 2+ years, I am tempted to take it down and replace it with something else, as I am afraid it might give us headaches in the future after everything is done.

Question: should we take down the ceiling and replace it with something modern such as plasterboard? Or should we patch it and it will last decades still? If replacing it, what exact materials should we use for the new ceiling? By replacing it, are we jeopardising the breathability of the property?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17757 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17757 Sun, 26 Feb 2023 20:36:30 +0000 David Lam Can I pick your brains please.
I'd like to add some IWI to my front wall (victorian terrace with a bay window). It's quite a small area and I plan to have max 60mm insulation. So tiny job really.
It's partially to make the walls plumb as I've now had high quality windows installed.
My main issue is that the wall is highly irregular.
The plan is to frame it out so the wall becomes level and plumb and true with the windows. This will create a small cavity which I would like to fill with insulation.
However if I used batts there will be lots of gaps as the wall above the window sticks out about 50mm more than the below the window.
I thought about boarding it out with OSB and then shoving something like Gutex thermofibre in it.
This is the sort of blown insulation that you're supposed to use a special machine for which would be ridiculous in my situation.
What do you think? Do you think using the blown insulation but just pouring it in would work?

Thank you]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17774 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17774 Thu, 09 Mar 2023 15:32:18 +0000 kaicasswell http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17719 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17719 Sat, 28 Jan 2023 17:28:20 +0000 fostertom http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17769 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17769 Tue, 07 Mar 2023 13:50:14 +0000 RobinB https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/moisture-meters/1469080
thank you :bigsmile:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17767 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17767 Mon, 06 Mar 2023 12:49:54 +0000 geoff_forwood
So, with a spare south facing roof that can hold around 4-6kWH of solar PV, I would like to replace the turbine with PV and feed into the same inverter. Both produce DC electricity.

The output from the turbine starts producing electricity from a nominal voltage of 270V up to a maximum of 600V, I understand. The solar PV panels I have looked at are rated at around 400W and generate up to 38V. So if I were to install 15 of these panels in series then my understanding is that they would produce a maximum of 6KW at 570V (I am not an electrician but studied A level physics many years ago and asked my friendly electrician (who does not install solar PV) and he believes my logic is correct).

The only other main doubt I have would be regarding the output curve of each generator (which I can't seem to find for any specific products) - i.e. the shape of a graph showing wind speed/brightness(lumens?) on the x-axis and voltage output on the y-axis and the way the inverter (SMA 6.3KW Windy Boy) might be optimised to the output of the wind turbine. If those graphs for the turbine and the PV are similar in shape then I see no issue of replacing the feed into the inverter to the PV (or even if the PV graph is steeper (i.e. higher voltage generated at lower light levels than the proportional level of wind speed that the turbine would require).

At this stage I don't want to install batteries but would like to consider adding some later once we work out how much more we could save.

I also don't know who could carry out this installation - my understanding is that the glut of solar PV installers want to fit a complete package including the inverter rather than just a partial install like this.

Any help or advice gratefully received.

And if I find a suitable solution does anyone want to buy my old wind turbine?

Thanks,

Geoff]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17770 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17770 Tue, 07 Mar 2023 15:22:40 +0000 fostertom http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17761 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17761 Tue, 28 Feb 2023 21:08:08 +0000 chrisinbrighton Ive been looking to get salvaged slates for a reroofing project.
Having done some research,it seems the best welsh slates last 130 years after which moisture gets absorbed and frost damage then starts.
Considering most buildings probably get demolished and salvaged after about 140 years doesnt that mean most salvaged slates have a very low shelf life?
Another thought,could something like stormdry stone sealer help prolong slate life?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17606 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17606 Sun, 16 Oct 2022 10:15:17 +0100 smudger
So who is left standing after 10 years of turmoil in the sector? Google just throwing up lots of old links.

Probably thinking about 5/6kw (previous 6kw).

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17759 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17759 Mon, 27 Feb 2023 22:20:03 +0000 bogal2 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17762 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17762 Wed, 01 Mar 2023 16:20:52 +0000 WillInAberdeen
We have one that works the other way - the pin must be pushed in to allow flow, and it springs out to shut flow off. It's on a towel radiator. No markings on it.

I want to replace just the thermostatic head, but obviously most of the new ones work the normal way round. I need one that pushes the pin to allow flow.

What name or term should I be searching for, to find this kind of thermostatic head?

Thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17765 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17765 Fri, 03 Mar 2023 10:55:23 +0000 fostertom
Seeking advice on using insulating lime plaster as airtight pargeing on old masonry before IWI.

What I'll be needing it for, is where well-built (flat/plumb but rough surface) rubble Edwardian stonework is lined with lime plaster on lathing on battens, with original skirtings and plaster cornice, to remain, which define the depth of IWI to replace the battened plaster. So prob 50mm IWI incl plasterboard. The Victorians/Edwardians imagined this would provide some insulation, but in fact does worse than the hard plaster that's used instead at 1stFl. This is because the hard plaster at least makes the wall airtight, while the unplastered rubble at GrdFl is highly wind-permeable (and equally permeable to chimney-effect-driven infiltration even when not windy). So at 1stFl the rubble's modest insulation value can have effect, as outside air is impeded from whistling right thro it, but at GrdFl it's unmitigated outside air right behind the lath-and-plaster - same as the plasterboard-tent effect of modern dot n dab in estate houses.

The IWI we will prob pay for Aerogel behind plasterboard, on the parge coat. The thinner the parge can be, the better, and if a little bit insulating itself, also better. My questions are:

1) can insulating lime plaster, with its insulating inclusions, in fact be airtight? At what thickness, for airtightness?

2) separate concern - what thickness must a) ordinary lime plaster, b) insulating lime plaster, be for ease of application, not becoming an expensive faff if too thin?

3) on flat, plumb but rough-surface rubble, obviously plenty of thickness where filling the dips, but a bare skim over the high spots? Will that work?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17766 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17766 Sat, 04 Mar 2023 19:04:56 +0000 number_thirty_three
Does it matter if a warm flat roof construction has a second layer of decking above (on the cold side) of the insulation?

Here's my proposed warm flat roof construction:

Outside
EPDM membrane
150mm tissue-faced PIR (glued with Instastik or similar)
VCL
18mm OSB deck
Joists
Inside

-

Question:

The roofer has said that his standard detail is actually to use foil faced PIR and mechanical fixings, with a second layer of OSB on top of the PIR because the tissue faced stuff inevitably gets damaged during install.

I don't really like this idea because:

(a) it's more OSB;
(b) mechanical fixings introduce mini thermal bridges; and
(c) I've read that that second deck is more susceptible to rot because it's on the cold side of the insulation - but have no idea whether there's anything in this...?

What do folk here think?

For clarity, here's his proposed construction:

Outside
EPDM membrane
11mm OSB deck
150mm foil-faced PIR, mechanically fixed through to Joists
VCL
18mm OSB deck
Joists
Inside


Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17692 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17692 Mon, 09 Jan 2023 20:47:09 +0000 ferkan
I have a 1880 victorian terraced house, with brick walls. I'm looking to add some insulation to an inside of the rear wall. Later I hope to insulate the outside. Possibly with cork.

For space reasons I'm only adding about 30mm, but I think it should make a meaningful difference to the brick only wall? I''m also doing it so as the wall needs redecorating and has damaged plasterwork.

My plan is to use about 25mm of expanded cork tile affixed to the existing plaster with isovit e-cork.
I want to cover that with a decorative cork layer. Something like this: https://puretreecork.com/product/36033

My questions are:
-Anything about this a bad idea.
-Does anyone know if any decorative cork layer is breathable? I've not been able to find much about how the decorative layers are made.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17763 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17763 Wed, 01 Mar 2023 18:36:53 +0000 marsaday
Anyway i have taken out all the plasterboard ceiling and removed the 50mm PIR insulation between the rafters. The rafter depth is 85-90mm, so there was a decent breathing gap behind, but I think they may have pushed come insulation a bit too far into the slate area. There is no felt/membrane under the slates.

I have damp rafters in most of the roof, some bits worse than others. Even some of the roof lats are damp in places.

There was no vapour barrier and the insulation was not foil taped.

My plan is to extend the rafter with a 50x25mm roof baton (done today) and then fit 75mm between the rafters and underboard with 50mm. Then i will foil tape the 50mm sheets up.

There is a section of the flat where I cannot baton out so much, but rather can only add 10mm. In these areas i will have to use 70mm insulation between and underboard by 50mm. This mean in these two areas (bathroom and kitchen) the breathing gap will be 25-30mm. The rest of the flat will have 40-45mm.

Will i have the same issue as before ? Should i be looking at introducing some breathing slates in the roof to get more air flow in there ?

This photo shows the water staining on the rafter.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17760 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17760 Mon, 27 Feb 2023 22:25:06 +0000 Victorianeco
Any particular brands to go for? We're starting to do a lot of restoration rip outs where there's a lot of mould/dust

I'm mindful I need to provide decent air quality to minimise exposure to my staff.

Any experience with the Trotec brand?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17737 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17737 Fri, 10 Feb 2023 18:24:23 +0000 Rex
Fitting a replacement wash basin; annoyingly, it is a few mm smaller that the one I have removed so will require some silicone 'remodelling' to fill the gaps. But that is s different issue.

Am using the original pop-up waste fitting as the visible part inside the basin is in good condition.

However, the squidgy washer/sealer is not the same profile as the basin is 'slightly' different from the original.

First question; what is this (red arrow) washer / sealer / gasket/ actually called and can one usually buy a replacement?

Second question, in searching Dr Google for an answer to the above, I found one site that suggests using silicone on the green arrowed areas. None of my basins have silicone in these areas; is this something that I should do?

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17747 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17747 Mon, 20 Feb 2023 18:25:36 +0000 luz13827
We did a big renovation last year and have moved back in for around 9 months. On the problematic areas we had prior (mould on external walls), we made a big effort to use lime and/or lime/cork insulating plaster on all external walls. Thankfully, we've experienced no mould this year, and a much cosier living space.

However we have just noticed one internal wall has efflorescence and is reading damp on the cheap Amazon meter we have (around 30%). This is the under stairs storage room so we don't use it often and I'm not sure how long it's been like this. This is a solid brick wall that goes into the ground, however it is in the middle of the property (terrace property) so I don't think it can be water in the ground from rain. We have neighbours on the other side, so I did wonder if it could be something coming from their side, however the worst of it seems to really be internal on our side. None of our external walls have any issues. On our internal walls, we used some sand/cement, some plasterboard. I *think* this wall has sand/cement render on it, over brick. The paint is a breathable Lakeland paint.

There are also no water pipes under this wall. We completely re-did all the pipework/plumbing, with brand new pipes from the street supply, and they don't run under this wall.

We do have underfloor heating within the polished concrete floor, however there are no damp marks on the concrete (and also, I think we'd have boiler pressure issues if there was a leak in the UFH?)

The other side of the wall looks and seems dry, however the other side is waterproof tadelakt, and we had waterproofed the wall (it is a bathroom with just a single bathtub in it, but very seldom used - probably used it four times since we moved back).

Our neighbour had mentioned to us that prior to us buying the property, there had been a leak from a water pipe under that wall. But that would have been 2.5+ years ago... I can't imagine the wall could still be damp from then, and only now just drying?!

Completely at a loss.. we are thinking to hack off the affected part of the wall and assess the brick below, but I really don't know how we can locate the source of the water (it is a polished concrete floor, so we can't just break that apart).

Any ideas?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17753 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17753 Fri, 24 Feb 2023 11:56:57 +0000 fostertom https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2023/feb/23/recapturing-excess-heat-could-power-most-of-europe-say-experts

Political, sure, but technically it's that waste heat, no matter how 'much' there is of it, is no use unless its temperature is high enough at the point of delivery to its re-use location.

What role for heat pumps in uplifting that temp a little, rather than uplifting the temp of stone-cold natural/environmental sources by a lot more?
Even re-using waste heat another time again, with modest heat-pump augmentation?

No use should be supplied with heat hotter than necessary, and that includes fossil fuel that burns very hot (e.g. CH boiler) only to supply a tepid heat requirement (CH rads). All that re-use potential squandered.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17738 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17738 Sat, 11 Feb 2023 08:12:48 +0000 listenerspeak
I have been reading the forum recently and managed to get my mother's property funding for external wall insulation which will hopefully be getting done soon.

She has been told they will not insulate the chimney breasts (1.5 m and 1.7 m long) along the gable wall (9m long), because of the heat inside the chimney if it is used in the future.

Will this not cause a big thermal bridge ?

Would she be best to get this externally insulated at her own cost at a later date.

The chimney stacks were both removed to below roof level last year as it was cheaper than repairing the existing render to them at the time. Front has two disused flues and rear has three disused flues. The plan was if the roof was redone to have EPs beads or glass beads poured in and potential insulation over the top??

Chimneys have a 280 mm cavity and juts out from the 9" brick wall externally with a half brick (110mm) wall internally and externally.

Thanks for any advice of comments]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17627 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17627 Tue, 01 Nov 2022 10:53:18 +0000 lineweight
However ... this seems to conflict with most standard details for the installation of restraint straps - for example those shown here:

https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/7-roofs/7-2-pitched-roofs/7-2-8-restraint/

which assume that the inner leaf rises to be level with the *top* of the rafters.

And I think that's to do with making sure the downward-turned arm of the restraint strap gets a good enough hold on the blockwork.

Is there a commonly accepted way of dealing with this conflict? for example using restraint straps with a longer downward arm?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17754 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17754 Fri, 24 Feb 2023 17:29:53 +0000 number_thirty_three
Is there anything useful that can be done with them - by which I'm thinking put them into some kind of breathable bag and use as insulation somewhere - or is it the case that in their raw dust form, not compacted, they're not likely to be very useful as insulators?

I imagine I'll be able to use some of the bigger offcuts in some places, just pains me a bit to throw so many of the smaller peices away as they are pretty pricey!

Sheepswool definitely generates a lot less waste from cutting to fit! Couldn't believe how much woodfibre dust the festool generated (and got clogged up with!)

Thanks for your thoughts]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17742 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17742 Tue, 14 Feb 2023 21:15:38 +0000 chrisinbrighton http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17748 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17748 Mon, 20 Feb 2023 20:09:15 +0000 philedge
Question is how to insulate. The interior has been decorated in the last year or so and with a second baby on the way they really dont want any/much disruption inside. There's enough eaves overhang to get a bit of EWI fitted so thoughts are to work from the outside, remove the external cladding, fit 50/75mm of PIR between the studs and a further 75 over the outside of the studs. Vertical battens fixed through the PIR into the studs with timber cladding fixed to the batten.

With no VCL are we going to hit problems even though weve got an equivalent or more insulation on the outside than within the studs? Second question is, if we can use foil faced insulation, do we need a membrane over the outside of the insulation?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17728 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17728 Wed, 01 Feb 2023 13:17:45 +0000 djh
I presently heat my house with an electrical post-heater in the MVHR duct (nominal 1.8 kW), plus a radiant heater by the front door (also 1.8 kW). Both are operated only at night as required, unless there are truly exceptional conditions. Hot water is provided from a thermal store that is heated by PV when available and backed up by a 3 kW mains immersion, again operated for a few hours overnight, when necessary.

I've looked at A2A heat pumps as being simplest and cheapest. I don't have any wet heating circuits. I thought about putting in just one indoor unit in the living room. But now I'm thinking that the MVHR post heater works by heating the air to 45°C and circulating it. I wonder if a single heat pump emitter can do that job? The front door heater is on the north side of the house and in an open lobby so it manages to heat up the colder part of the house a bit extra when necessary. How would I determine what I need?

I've also become aware of heat pump water heaters recently, so I've considered getting one. But the ones I've looked at seem to have the heat pump packed along with the tank and so have massive great air ducts to/from the tank. I don't fancy cutting big holes in my walls. The ones I've seen are also cylinders rather than thermal stores, so need annual inspections and more maintenance. Are there any products that provide the benefits without the costs and hassle?

I also happened to look at the boiler upgrade scheme - https://www.gov.uk/apply-boiler-upgrade-scheme - and was surprised to see that the eligibility conditions appear to include me. It says "replacing fossil fuel heating systems (such as oil, gas or electric)". Well my system is electric, so am I eligible? Does anybody know, before I "speak to an MCS certified installer"?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17758 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17758 Mon, 27 Feb 2023 18:46:47 +0000 evan I used to post on here many years ago, got some great advice and nice to see a few familiar names still here.

Since I last did any renovation wood fibre has become affordable, so I would be interested to use it, and/or some kind of wool to add insulation to my current house: old, barn type Scottish rubble wall type construction, which has a suspended wooden floor and lath and plaster walls with a gap between the wall and the back of the dry lining.

What is a recommended recipe in this case for walls? I imagine new stud walls with insulation between / on top of the studs, but not sure where any membranes or barriers should go, and can the rigid board be plastered or is plasterboard on top still advised?

Likewise for the floor, to which I would also like to add UFH.

Only current insulation is in the loft, 150mm rock wool.

Any suggestions or examples appreciated!

Thanks
Evan]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17755 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17755 Fri, 24 Feb 2023 21:34:33 +0000 marsaday
I had a crack in the valley where another valley runs into it. The valley is felted or they have used rubber. I can't fully tell, but is older.

So i coated this valley in fibrepol (a sticky water proof paint solution with fibres) and it looked like it helped improve the thickness of the felt covering.

After this (a few days later) i stuck a patch of lead over the cracked area to sort of do a puncture repair on the roof. I tucked the lead under the last section of rubber valley descending into this area and ran it out into the damaged area which is felt or rubber. The lead is a patch 30cm wide and 60cm in length. So water coming down the valley running into the damaged valley will travel over this piece of lead.

Water then pools a little and sits where i now have my lead patch, but the lead has improved this pooling quite a bit.

However, the Stixall i used didn't adhere and the lead just peeled up when i tugged it.

So i cleaned off the lead and applied the CT1 adhesive and this stuck a lot better.

Today has been the first day of rain for quite a few weeks and the leak is still there, but is much improved.

So i need to reattached this lead patch again as it must be letting water in underneath it.

What other product could i use to get the lead to stick down ? Would leadmate be a better bet ?

Replacing the whole run of felt is most likely the best option, but I dont think the block of flats has enough money to take it up and reslate around the lower sections draining into this valley.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17752 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17752 Thu, 23 Feb 2023 16:22:55 +0000 luz13827
We had a poorly manufactured and installed glazing facade installed last year, and are currently in process of making a claim against them. They claimed a U value of 1.3, but they left such 3-4cm large gaps around the glazing (which they then filled with foam) that I am sure it's not 1.3 in reality.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17750 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17750 Wed, 22 Feb 2023 20:29:05 +0000 minisaurus
I don’t think radiator size would be an issue in most houses in most parts of the Uk, if one uses the heat pump in the way one does here in Scandinavia.

This is because the water temperature to the radiators is determined by the outdoor temperature (sensor) and the type of building (these are parameters you program into the pump).

For example, today, where I live it’s around 3+ degrees outside, the temperature the pump is sending to our radiators cycles between 35 and 45 degrees and we enjoy 20.5 degrees indoor temp (at the temp sensor). Our house is in no way super insulated.

One difference to the Uk gas boiler approach, is that the pump runs 24/7, so lower radiator temperatures work with this approach.

Our pump is EAHP, and with outdoor temperatures around 0 degrees and higher, the electric “booster” element hardly ever runs for space heating.

So, I reckon, with the relatively high winter temperatures in the Uk, and the correct configuration, you could run an ASHP economically without changing the radiators.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16759 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16759 Sat, 17 Oct 2020 19:37:28 +0100 jms452
If we heat a single room downstairs (e.g. run a wood burner or just cook - with the kitchen at the bottom of the stairs) then we don't need the heating on unless it's super cold.

This made be wonder about the viability of a supplementary single room air to air heat pump to heavily cut our carbon emissions without huge expense - 2kW would do for all but the coldest weather with the gas to do winter hot water. Looks like I can get cop 4-5 with something like this:

https://www.worcester-bosch.co.uk/img/rac_assets/erp/single_units/Single_Split_2.6kW_Product_Data_Sheet.pdf

Is this a good idea and any suggestions as to unit - low power is good to maximise the PV input.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17744 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17744 Sat, 18 Feb 2023 13:00:52 +0000 Rex
This is just an 'out of interest' question.

On one of our walking routes, along an expensive road, one house is installing an Enduramaxx 10,000 Litre Rainwater Tank that stands around 3.7m tall.

I was chatting with the groundworker and was told that it will be in the back garden, set onto a solid base and will be set into the ground by around one meter. That leaves around 2.7m above ground. The water inlet will be from the bottom of the tank.

Since water finds its own level, when the tank is full, I assume that water in the downpipes attached to the house will be full of water to around 2m + high. In my mind, this does not make much sense or am I missing a fundamental principle?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17749 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17749 Mon, 20 Feb 2023 20:29:34 +0000 Victorianeco http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17746 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17746 Sun, 19 Feb 2023 17:55:08 +0000 kaicasswell https://www.paw.eu/en/applications/dhw/

I'm planning a larger buffer tank with supplementary solar thermal heating and instead of a separate DHW cylinder, use a fresh water module for hot water. from memory they claim 45C - 22L/min at 55C store temp

The buffer is 800 litres and solar will be six flat plates, so a reasonable contribution in spring and autumn to space heating. Overall heat demand is lowish - 8kW]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17733 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17733 Tue, 07 Feb 2023 10:10:36 +0000 maxsm
Are there any radiators out there that we could connect to a gas boiler in the short/mid term and then ASHP in future? If yes, is there anything we should be aware of when sizing the radiators?

Thanks in advance for any help]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17250 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17250 Tue, 26 Oct 2021 11:58:58 +0100 nigel
These use propane as a refrigerant and can produce a flow temperature of 70 degrees with an outside temp of down to minus 15.
This will facilitate retrofit in most houses without changing radiators and will be a direct swap out for gas or oil boilers.

https://www.viessmann.family/en/newsroom/solution-offering/the-new-generation-of-heat-pumps

Other manufacturers are going down this route too.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17736 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17736 Fri, 10 Feb 2023 12:21:15 +0000 GreenPaddy
-------------------------------
Here’s a new air to air heat pump with a HW cylinder. Not got a lot of info about it’s efficiency. Sounds good in theory!

https://www.daikin.eu/en_us/product-group/air-to-air-heat-pumps/multiplus.html

---------------------

It seems to me to be an excellent solution for certain situations, and develops on the experience of "owlman", and others, whereby not a lot of space heating is required, but direct electric immersion is used for DHW generation.

I've seen a number of questions about simple air-to-air for space heating, but if only there were a way to get DHW too.

Not sure about the price, as like bogal2, there doesn't seem to be that much info on it on Google, but perhaps worth discussing, following up on?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10206 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10206 Tue, 26 Feb 2013 14:10:55 +0000 Shevek
Has anyone done this themselves? What did you tank the EPS with?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17745 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17745 Sun, 19 Feb 2023 14:28:00 +0000 zak99
What insulation should I use please and how deep should it go?

Rgds,

Zak99]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17743 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17743 Thu, 16 Feb 2023 19:11:40 +0000 Julio Have got a project doing a new build that incorporates 2 barns, with a large wrap around extension, so has LOTS of junctions of different materials (e.g. stone with EWI, stone with IWI, timber frame to stone etc etc) and insulation types. A bit of a nightmare for this!
The extension is going to be constructed out of 245mm timber I-beams with blown in cellulose, does anyone know where to access any Psi values for this build up?
What is the most cost effective way to get a Psi value for all of these other junctions? Any advised companies? I think the software and learning etc might be too much for me right now.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17723 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17723 Mon, 30 Jan 2023 07:49:39 +0000 Victorianeco http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17710 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17710 Mon, 23 Jan 2023 13:28:07 +0000 will t
1. What is the best way to ensure airtightness at the wall/ceiling joint before skimming? I have cracking here in a few different rooms of my house. Some original lath and plaster ceiling and wet plaster walls, some with an overboarded ceiling.

2. Whats the best way to repair the cracking in the other areas that aren't being reskimmed?

I've seen suggested on here to put mesh tape before plastering but I was wondering about an airtight tape that could be plastered over?

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17741 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17741 Mon, 13 Feb 2023 15:36:49 +0000 minisaurus
When renovating, I'm considering increasing the insulation of the timber frame parts - i.e. remove timber panels, add new framework to increase insulation width, add insulation, and replace the timber panels.

The existing insulation on the timber parts is approx. 12cm thick.

I'm concerned that this may create/shift dewpoints in the timber frame, or even where timber meets concrete.

What do others think?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17718 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17718 Fri, 27 Jan 2023 18:04:08 +0000 djh
They are GLS lamps and supposedly have an efficiency of over 200 lm/W. I haven't heard of anything that high before.
https://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/crompton-lamps-ultra-efficient-led-gls-2.2w-b22-a-class-5-pack-warm-white-clear-40w-eqv-/

Whilst looking for further details I found another product I haven't seen before: T5 LED tubes intended for retrofitting in existing fittings (with the ballast bypassed). There are T8 tubes as well. e.g. https://www.cromptonlamps.com/Catalogue/LED/T5/LED-T5-Full-Glass-Tube-3ft-Direct-to-Mains-240V-AC-12W-4000K-G5-12097]]>