Tue, 19 Dec 2023 03:58:08 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17727 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17727 Tue, 31 Jan 2023 20:09:24 +0000 Davey P I was thinking Aluclad from a longevity perspective but not encountered them before. Are they worth looking at or a waste of money.
Also, the really thin frame detail on some of the more contemporary units I've seen would look out of place on our rustic 400 year old pile of stone. I'm wanting to go for a single opening unit ideally to maximise both light and efficiency but the frames will need to be reasonably chunky.

Can anyone recommend any suppliers as I literally don't know anyone with triple glazing apart from locally sourced plastic. I've spoke to Russel Timbertech but not used them before. I've heard of Internorm but thats just from a google search. This will be our last home so want whatever I install to last so I don't have to replace them again.

Any info much appreciated.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16867 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16867 Fri, 01 Jan 2021 19:04:38 +0000 Ed Davies
https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2021/jan/01/avoid-using-wood-burning-stoves-if-possible-warn-health-experts

“Campaigners and health experts are calling on people who have alternative heating not to use their wood burning stoves this winter amid growing concern about their impact on public health.

[…]

Now experts at the Asthma UK and British Lung Foundation Partnership are asking people with wood burners only to use them if they have no alternative source of heat.

“We know that burning wood and coal releases fine particulate matter (PM2.5) – the most worrying form of air pollution for human health,” said Sarah MacFadyen, head of policy at the charity. “It’s therefore important to consider less polluting fuel options to heat your home or cook with, especially if coal or wood is not your primary fuel source.” ”]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17740 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17740 Sun, 12 Feb 2023 13:26:59 +0000 ecosar I have had my wood boiler/range system heating CH & DHW for about 6 years. I have a thermal store.

increasingly more often the loading valve ESBE ltc 200 cycles on and off (I assume it is the pump I can hear), in a manner that I believe to be a servicing option, manually activated by turning the adjuster the opposite direction to normal. I am not turning the knob, but do wonder if it has somehow got turned. I have lost the manual and cannot find ltc200 on Ebse site.

The loading valve pump is activated by a flue stat, which I can adjust.

I have struggled to get an engineer out for several years and am wondering if any one here knows about loading valves and can help me work it out?

Thanks,
Sarah]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17734 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17734 Tue, 07 Feb 2023 10:20:58 +0000 lngn2
Context:

New concrete slabs with DPM underneath.
PIR on top
Slip membrane/VCL
Anhydrite Screed.

I understand that the DPM should be joined to the DPC in the wall (but can't as the builders didn't leave enough membrane free and I wasn't aware at the time). Seems I can mitigate with a paint-on DPM such as BlackJack or Synthaprufe).

How does one deal with the floor VCL though? Should that also be joined to the wall? I'm tempted to trim it back to floor level and then use blower-proof paint over the junction? Alternatively I could use some sort of tape - Contega Solido?

As an aside, does anyone know how long a concrete floor should be left before covering with PIR? Our builder said it would be OK after a few days (which is what we did) but subsequent digging suggests otherwise and I've had to pull him up on a number of technical points he got wrong and I suspect this may be one?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9313 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9313 Sun, 08 Jul 2012 14:30:34 +0100 Shevek http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17735 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17735 Tue, 07 Feb 2023 13:08:10 +0000 cjard
PVGIS indicates I'd need a 40kw array to cover 100% of my winter demand (simplistic - I assume I can always generate, store and recover enough daily) which is quite a whack. I haven't yet run the sums to see what a sensible array size would be to summer generate, sell surplus to grid, use money to offset winter draw from grid, but I suspect it might still be a chunky array.

I'm interested to know, for a given size of turbine, what wind based power production would be for my location (anecdotally it's the first hill since the beach and typically quite windy) so I can do an ROI compare against solar.. I just can't find a decent calc]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17698 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17698 Mon, 16 Jan 2023 12:34:01 +0000 lngn2
Question - has anyone else had a similar issue and how did you resolve it? Options as I see it are:
1. Remove the boards and make up. Not going to happen as we can't afford to waste the materials, don't have the time etc.
2. Live with wonky walls and make up as best we can around verticals (the doors etc).
3. Use the top-coat plaster to make up - but will the boards cope with the required thickness of plaster hanging off them? Could be an inch or more in some places. The supplier isn't sure, so anecdotal evidence would be much appreciated!

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17729 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17729 Wed, 01 Feb 2023 23:53:59 +0000 number_thirty_three
We have plans to include two fairly small openable rooflights - looking at Velux or Fakro - in our loft conversion. Have scoured for guidance on how to minimise the bridging around the frames but it seems little has moved on since this post from over a decade ago, and the manufacturers still offer fairly limited solutions in this space:

http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4112&page=1" >

Some specific questions:

1) One of the interesting ideas I've seen mentioned in a few previous posts is about constructing some kind of mini-SIP to house the Velux frame in. Has anyone got any pictures or links to anything detailing how this has been done successfully?

2) I'm planning on putting 80mm PIR above the rafters; can't find guidance on how to install Velux or Fakro in such a circumstance - presumably they have to be installed onto timber, not to PIR - so would we need to construct a raised timber frame above the rafters in line with the insulation, to secure the frame into? If so, then I guess that's introducing more thermal bridging - any ways to mitigate this? I've seen mention of wrapping Aerogel up the insides. Worth it?

2) Should we rethink having openable rooflights? The loft design has one rooflight in the bathroom, one in the bedroom, and then a large openable window on the dormer side. We're due to have MVHR. Do we need to be able to open the skylights, or should we consider being more radical and having them fixed to improve the overall thermal performance?). Feel like we will want cross-ventilation on warm summer nights... Obviously this is a personal choice kinda question but I'm curious what the folks on this forum would do.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17714 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17714 Wed, 25 Jan 2023 17:29:03 +0000 marsaday
The building control guy is not sure on the new regs and said he will get back to me on what i need to put back.

He is saying i can leave the 50mm rigid foil insulation in between the roof joists and under board with 50mm. So 100mm rigid insulation on the roof.

The flat dorma can have the same, so 100mm.

The dorma sides he wasnt sure, It is 75mm deep here.

On the small eave walls he wants 150mm rigid which doesnt seem right.

Uvalue to achieve is 0.16 on any roof part and 0.3 on walls (i think).

Anyone know about this topic ?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17731 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17731 Fri, 03 Feb 2023 09:47:03 +0000 Rex
Hoping you can point me in a web search direction that I am unable to find.

X years ago, I made a rather nice lamp from some large diameter bamboo and a Japanese fan. Mains powered with a 25w pigmy lamp. It is annoying to use as where we would like it, there is no point point close by.

I am therefore thinking of changing to a batter powered LED so the light would be more of less 'portable.' But I cannot find any LED pigmy bulbs that are battery powered. Of course, there are any number of mains powered LED lamps, 12v car bulb replacements and all those Christmas string lights (battery powered).

Does such a bulb exist and if so, where do I find it?

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17724 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17724 Tue, 31 Jan 2023 12:36:36 +0000 alexeix
I live in a 1950s semi, which I am going to be extending (awaiting a decision on planning).
Most of the original, external walls will be subject to the extension and therefore the new external walls will be properly insulated, however, most of the front of the house and one part of the rear upstairs will remain original.
Bizarrely, the house has almost no cavity, so I’m looking at internal or external insulation panels for the relevant areas.

The house is quite humid, which has caused some mould growth, so I’m now ventilating twice a day by opening all windows for about 10 mins and running a dehumidifier when the windows are closed.

Therefore, I’m going to need to fit some kind of automated ventilation.
I considered an MVHR system, but it would require substantial changes inside the property, including boxing in of pipework, so it’s not suitable.
We also know peoples who have recently fitted a PIV system and they said the incoming air is cold, so we want to avoid that.

We seem to be left with adding individual heat recovery ventilation units in rooms (probably not all), but I’d like to get some feedback from people who are using them.

Does anyone here have these things and are they any good?
How much noise do they make?
Recommended brands?

Thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17429 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17429 Thu, 24 Mar 2022 17:02:53 +0000 owlman The heat pump industry itself was perhaps somewhat to blame in that it continued to label A/A as Aircon, a more canny approach from this industry may have been to label them as " air source reverse cycle heat pump " which may have got them included in the initial heat pump plan.

I came across this recently from BESA :-

APPLICABLE VAT RATE ON HEAT PUMP INSTALLATIONS
The purpose of this technical bulletin is to advise members of changes to the VAT rate
announced in the Chancellor’s Spring Statement of 23rd March 2022.
1. BACKGROUND
In July 2014 HMRC introduced a scheme for applying a reduced rate of VAT of 5% on energy
saving materials and heating equipment. It followed on from the enhanced capital allowances list of
previous years whereby heating equipment which featured on that list could have a 5% VAT rate
applied when the products were installed in domestic situations. The move was designed to
encourage the uptake of energy efficient heating systems such as heat pumps in retrofit
applications.
In October 2019 the rules were subtly changed to incorporate a “60% test” that must be applied for
the reduced rate to be used if certain social policy conditions are not met.
The Spring Statement of 23rd March 2022 has reversed that 2019 ruling as from 1st April 2022
meaning that the social conditions and 60% requirements no longer apply at all. This has been
implemented to incentivize homeowners to install energy saving heating materials as part of a
wider package of Government measures targeted at improving energy efficiency and driving the
decarbonisation of heat agenda.
The zero rating applies to installations of these products and therefore cannot be applied by sellers
of equipment only.
At this moment in time the zero rating can only be used by contractors in Great Britain as the EU
need to agree to this move for Northern Ireland. HMRC assured us that they are working on this
being a UK wide initiative as soon as possible.

2. VAT NOTICE 708/6 – CONFUSION OVER DEFINTIONS1
In February 2021 an amendment to clause 2.17 Air source heat pumps was made to correct a
mistake where air source heat pumps of the split air conditioning type had been specifically ruled
out from the scheme. There remained a large element of confusion across the sector, however,
and the issue persisted. After extensive talks between the BESA and HMRC the guidance has
been updated to clarify the applicability rules and allow air source reverse cycle heat pump air
conditioners in the same way it applies for monoblock heat pumps.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17721 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17721 Sun, 29 Jan 2023 14:18:25 +0000 Rex
Will be replacing a wash basin that for some reason, the glaze has started to craze.

Using the existing mono-block tap, is there usually a washer between the tap and the basin? There was not when I original installed it, but given that the drain plug has a washer / gasket to 'soften' the metal / ceramic contact area, seems to me that there should be.

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17722 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17722 Sun, 29 Jan 2023 23:30:37 +0000 number_thirty_three
1. Would anyone care to critique the detail in the pic attached? I'd be grateful for any constructive criticism of my draft - I've assembled this based on research on this forum and elsewhere but before going ahead with the build phase I'd love to get a sanity check that it's not terrible / is there anything we could be doing better etc - thank you in advance :)

2. Foam? I have seen mention of some squirty foam being used when PIR isn't tightly fitting - what is this foam, should I be using it (instead of stuffing in something like wool) and what is its u-value? (The only one I've been able to find on a google is a Soudal one from Screwfix, but they give a u value of 35, which I'm perhaps mis-reading, as it would seem to be inaccurate by a factor of 100...)

3. Mechanical fixings Anyone have any specific product suggestions for mechanically fixing PIR above the rafters? On here I've seen mention of some hammer-in fixings for example but not seen any specific product name or link to follow. Would need something around 115mm in length (going through 80mm PIR). And related to this - do people typically secure the Counter Battens (by which I mean the battens that run in line with the Rafters over the external insulation) separately after installing the PIR, or is it a case of securing the PIR with a minimal amount of screws, and then installing the Counter Battens through the PIR to the Rafters?

I assume that they don't *need* to be thermally broken - partially I say this because our rafters are only 50mm wide, so any thermally broken fixings (ie. plastic covered) will be a tad difficult to use, but also it's the insulation external to the rafters, so hoping the thermal bridge it creates is less significant...

4. VCL? Am I right in thinking that our Airtightness membrane we'll be placing on the inside of the PIR is also - in the context of this pitched warm roof - our Vapour Check/Control Layer (VCL)? (So long as it's taped at joins).

Thanks in advance :smile:

PS. re my proposed detail, I am unclear on whether I need the insulation to extend all the way to the ends of the rafters, as it's a good 30cm or so beyond the edge of the IWI (Woodfibre) coming up from the floor below - the main reason I have continued it down is that it looks to reduce the thermal bridge at the join...]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17726 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17726 Tue, 31 Jan 2023 17:26:43 +0000 chrisinbrighton
I can get vents in the soffit and some holes in the gable walls each end but was wondering if the felt overlaps could be `opened up` to increase ventilation,using the gap formed by counterbattens ?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17682 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17682 Wed, 28 Dec 2022 09:47:39 +0000 thebeacon
I have drawn up the framework for my 4x3.5m warm roof garden room. I plan to leave the roof joists unclad internally, partly to save on material and partly to give the illusion of slightly more head height.

1. How many sets of noggins would you recommend for the roof, and should they be placed central to the walls or central to the overall roof joist length?

The span will be 3.5m, although the roof overhangs at the front and back, making the roof joist length 4.3m. I am using 47 x 175mm C24 Pressure Treated Timbers for the joists.

2. Would you recommend making the noggins smaller in depth, for example, using 47x150mm and having a gap between the top of the noggin and the roof deck to allow airflow?

3. Where the roof joists attach to the top plate of the walls, would you suggest using truss clips (https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-truss-clips-galvanised-95mm-x-50mm-20-pack/72002) or angle brackets (https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-heavy-duty-angle-brackets-galvanised-90-x-63mm-25-pack/69361) on each side of a roof joist

i have uploaded an image to show the design so far.

Thanks in advance,]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17725 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17725 Tue, 31 Jan 2023 15:39:44 +0000 ringi http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17716 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17716 Thu, 26 Jan 2023 21:46:55 +0000 Artiglio http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17712 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17712 Tue, 24 Jan 2023 10:17:10 +0000 fostertom
https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2023/jan/24/us-electric-vehicles-lithium-consequences-research

"The US’s transition to electric vehicles could require three times as much lithium as is currently produced for the entire global market, causing needless water shortages, Indigenous land grabs, and ecosystem destruction inside and outside its borders"
(quadruple that for Europe, and 'rest of world'). But by ...

"... changing the way we get around towns and cities – fewer cars, more walking, cycling and public transit made possible by denser cities – followed by downsizing vehicles and recycling batteries ... the lithium demand would be 92% lower"

Incredible that battery recycling is not already !00%, so that proper recycling is the third most important measure that's missing.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17717 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17717 Fri, 27 Jan 2023 14:16:16 +0000 Artiglio
I’m working my way through a renovation of a listed barn/oast, been a building on the site since around 1750 though how much of what’s here today is open to interpretation, it’s been much altered over the years.

Works so far have incorporated wood fibre bonded to external walls and baumit lime plasters, suspended ground floors have wood fibre and added airflow.
Now i’ve arrived at the ground floor in what was part of the barn. After removal of the 1980’s screed a couple of test pits show 3” of old concrete (probably around 1900) , 4” of crushed chalk , then 24” of made up ground mix of crushed chalk , clinker , soil. The bottom of this seems to be a compressed floor , possibly the original barn floor. Excavation for a foundation, uncovered an existing spread brick footing with air bricks suggesting that at some time the area had a suspended ventilated floor. This wall was not tied into the barn walls at either side so seems to be a later adaption and had air bricks stamped “doulton lambeth” and date 1858-1910. The building was repurposed in 1907 so this may tie in.
The area was last altered in 1980 (prior to this the area had been a handymans workshop and feed store for stables since the early 60’s), a liquid dpm between the slab and screed. Rear external wall has an exterior ground level 400mm higher than internal floor , this was similarly painted in liquid dpm ( wall is a mix of flint, brick and rendered partially on interior) then battened 25mm of glassfibre , polythene ( badly fitted) then plasterboard.

Stripping all this back reveals absolutely no signs of damp or rot. My preference is for a timber finished floor covering. ( previously the floor was finished with varnished cork tiles in the living area and a melamine type tile in the kitchen.)

The conservation officer is in the retain as much of existing as possible camp but is open to reasonable well argued options and has been very amenable to date. Costs are becoming very much an issue and saving on labour is becoming the easiest way to restrain the budget. A full blown excavation , foamglass, limecrete floor is whilst not impossible going to severly constrain the rest of the project. The simplest and most easily reversed option is 50mm max pir and a 22mm for the floor ( this is not much more than the screed i removed, any greater thickness of insulation is impractical due to two 9” deep beams running the length of the room) , external walls treated with bonded woodfibre as before.

Any suggested floor makeups? Is the simplest solution asking for problem in the future? My other post looking for a discussion revolving around the benefits of “dry” substrates having insulation benefits , was in relation to the infill in what was seemingly at some point a suspended floor.

Heating is gas boiler and oversized radiators , for a bit of future proofing and move to ashp.
There will be mvhr , more for continuous ventilation and negating the need for fan outlets in bathrooms ensuites etc than heat recovery as achieving really good levels of air tightness is unlikely , with the retention of existing windows and doors along with the timber frame remaining on show where possible and its likely movement as the place finally dries out properly.

Any thoughts / insights appreciated.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17707 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17707 Fri, 20 Jan 2023 15:04:04 +0000 andyman99
https://octopus.typeform.com/EVchargers?utm_source=OEVpage&_ga=2.13028276.2048100522.1674226008-504967900.1674226008&typeform-source=octopusev.com

They have 3 different charger options:

Ohme Home Pro
Wallbox Pulsar Max
MyEnegyZappi II

Anybody known the pros and cons of these different chargers? I don't have any Solar capability atm but I'm considering this and so would want to ensure good PV integration was available if possible.

Thanks

Andy]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17713 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17713 Tue, 24 Jan 2023 11:23:30 +0000 Simon Still
https://www.cam.ac.uk/research/news/insulation-only-provides-short-term-reduction-in-household-gas-consumption-study-of-uk-housing

I've not looked at it in depth but seems to point to a few things to me -
- our housing stock is terribly insulated so many people live in cold houses
- retrofit isn't being done well enough. (our regulations should be tighter)
- energy is (or at least was) too cheap.

Anecdotally people have been turning down their heating this year - the staff in a DIY store I was in recently were saying they'd had a big increase in people seeking remedy for damp (likely as a result of reducing heating input)]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17711 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17711 Mon, 23 Jan 2023 19:02:27 +0000 Osprey
I was wondering if I could simply make a hole (in each stud partition) and pour in EPS beads. Then fill the holes, job done? I would prefer to use the grey, cavity wall beads, but they seem almost unobtainable, so could I use white beads?

The outside of the bay wall is rendered (pebble dash, good condition) and the inside is very good condition plaster/paint.

Any thoughts on whether this would be a good or really bad idea welcomed!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17182 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17182 Wed, 08 Sep 2021 10:19:05 +0100 lineweight
Does anyone have any others to suggest, or a clear favourite?

For me, I need something either online or spreadsheet-based, or an application that runs on a mac.

Obviously reasonable accuracy is important, but so is user-friendliness, and the ability to save calculations would be handy. I'd be willing to pay for something (not loads) that was better than any of the free options.

Something that will give you a useful dew-point calculation is also good.



​​https://www.vesma.com/tutorial/uvalue01/uvalue01.htm

http://www.thermalcalconline.com/u-value-calculator/u-value-opaque/u-value-opaqueExcel.html

https://www.changeplan.co.uk/u_value_calculator.php

https://www.ubakus.com/en/r-value-calculator/

https://www.yourspreadsheets.co.uk/u-value-calculator-to-bs-en-iso-6946.html]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16112 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16112 Sat, 04 May 2019 12:58:45 +0100 djh
It looks professional and works out condensation and decrement delay and suchlike to EU standards.

It has an English language option, but only some of the content is in English. The rest remains in German. So if anybody with better German with me wants to have a go and see how useful it is, that would be helpful.

PS It might be better to use it before brexit, from some of the statements on the site about access within the EU.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17715 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17715 Thu, 26 Jan 2023 09:59:17 +0000 Shevek https://ak-develop.com/app/2019/08/29/ThermalTransmittanceCalcEn.html]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17213 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17213 Wed, 29 Sep 2021 12:56:25 +0100 bogal2 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17709 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17709 Sun, 22 Jan 2023 20:07:22 +0000 number_thirty_three
I'm looking at the insulation options for our upcoming loft conversion and have hit a wall (metaphorically speaking).

Its a typical mid-terrace 1905 period house. The pitched roof has a little gable triangle on the front - I've attached a diagram to illustrate it. The diagram also shows the parapet atop the fire walls breaking the roof line between our roof and the neighbours either side.

Because of those parapet walls, I believe we can raise our roof height on the front elevation a little as it won't be massively noticeable from street level, enabling us to convert it to a warm roof (by which I mean adding around 100mm of PIR above rafters, and filling the 100mm rafters with a further 100mm).

However, I'm unclear what to do about the the little triangular gable. If we added 100mm there, it would make the triangle wider/bigger overall, and that wouldn't be acceptable to do. The only way around it would be to remove the rafters there completely, shrink them down and rebuild, which seems like an awful lot of rework (all the existing roof rafters are in good condition so can remain in place).

I'm keen to go down the warm roof route but this has me blocked. Has anyone seen something like this before / any suggestions?

So far I've considered the following:

a) Adding only a small amount of insulation above the rafters in that section - 20mm say - which would hopefully then not distort the appearance of the triangle. I imagine a downside is a potential thermal bridge where those sections meet the 100mm areas, with inconsistent u-values around the fabric of the front elevation, which I imagine could leave to condensation issues / risk of rot etc.

b) Doing a warm roof on the main pitch, as well as the little gable triangle vertical face, but a 'cold' roof on the pitched roofs of the little gable. There will be intersecting points between the two which would add complication to the detailing even more I imagine.

c) abandoning warm roof aspirations and insulating it as-is (i.e. as a cold roof). This affects head height though, so I'd like to avoid if I can.


Thanks in advance for any suggestions]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17705 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17705 Fri, 20 Jan 2023 13:21:19 +0000 Simon Still
Fairly small one - probably 60x30. 240V. Daylight white.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17397 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17397 Sat, 19 Feb 2022 20:49:03 +0000 tony
There is no evidence that this is dangerous as only a small portion of the plasticiser is lost and only from the outer sheath of the cable. The polystyrene is thinned a tad.

Is anyone aware of a resulting problem?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17708 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17708 Fri, 20 Jan 2023 17:42:42 +0000 Rex
I don't know how to add multiple photos to one post so will have to add them individually.

Browsing my local DIY store and looking at my favourite tool, plunge saws.

McAlister and Ebauer. As far as I can see, they come from the same factory, every screw, moulding shape is the same, just different coloured plastic and but priced £110 and £160.

Interestingly, both have a plastic locking tab and in both cases, it was broken. And these have not even been used in the work environment.

I don't need one (have a Makita) but cannot see what one gets for the £50 extra.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17309 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17309 Thu, 02 Dec 2021 21:55:27 +0000 tony
For me they are labouring under a misapprehension! The energy that they use is solar energy.

As heat is extracted from the ground, the ground cools and then solar energy gradually tries to bring the temperature back to where it was before. Extraction can slightly alter the equilibrium temperature in extreme cases.

Geothermal energy is heat from hot spring, lava, volcanic activity, mud pools, geysers etc.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17671 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17671 Mon, 19 Dec 2022 10:47:26 +0000 Rex
I have a two bed first floor maisonette that we rent out. It is double glazed, original (minimal) loft insulation, an old Potterton boiler that does not go wrong. The gable wall is cavity insulated, the front and back are not as the external wall is tile hung.

I read in today's paper that new legislation will require me to achieve a minimum EPC level to be able to continue to rent it out.

Certainly, the loft could be improved relatively easily but at a cost to storage space as the floor level would have to be raised.

The boiler would cost an arm and a leg as it is currently internally and new boilers (I believe) have to be on an external wall which would imply a virtually complete new plumbing.

When the elderly couple on the ground floor took advantage of a government scheme to subsidise the cavity wall insulation, they took up the offer and I had to pay for the first floor gable wall to be done, as the insulation company would not do half the wall. But they would not insulate my front and back as the walls are tile hung.

Given that I do not want to replace the old boiler as it is regularly serviced and never goes wrong, and that the external tile hung walls will be are very difficult (expensive?) to insulate, what am I , and I guess, many, many others expected to do to achieve the EPC level?

Thanks and have a Cool Yule]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17704 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17704 Fri, 20 Jan 2023 12:29:23 +0000 Rex
First off, a word of support to Ideal Standard for their amazing service. I have IS basins, baths toilets, etc and although had them installed for the past 12 years, on one wash basin the glaze is starting to craze. of course, well outside any warranty, but I contacted the IS CEO and they have very kindly, sent a replacement.

However, that is not the purpose of this thread.

I am also replacing the push-pull lever operated plug. On the current one, the chrome plug unscrews to remove it, and the cross-shaped centralising bit just pulls out from the threaded part. Easy to clean.

The replacement is slightly different in that the same cross-shaped centralising part is also threaded at the base. What I don't understand is a/ why? and b/ how does one clean it if the entire lever has to be removed from under the basin?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17702 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17702 Wed, 18 Jan 2023 11:20:25 +0000 djh http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17701 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17701 Tue, 17 Jan 2023 12:32:03 +0000 BenM
I was just wondering if anyone has any recommendation for a wireless temperature gauge?

I’d like to be able to monitor my thermal store temp while not at home; and ideally monitor and record what’s it’s doing over a period.

I have a vacant gauge opening on the tank to place a temp probe in.

Any info would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Ben]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17695 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17695 Fri, 13 Jan 2023 16:24:46 +0000 GreenPaddy
Scotland mandates Passivhaus equivalent legislation
A seismic change in building standards is underway in Scotland.

All new build homes in Scotland will soon have to meet greater levels of energy efficiency after the Scottish Government agreed to progress legislation proposed by Scottish Labour MSP Alex Rowley.

In December 2022 Scottish government ministers announced plans to make all new build housing meet a Scottish equivalent to the Passivhaus standard within the next two years. Work to develop the standard will commence early in 2023, seeking the laying of amending regulations in mid-December 2024.

This is HUGE and a potentially game-changing move for building performance, comfort, energy bills, and climate action in Scotland! Its ripples will extend far beyond Scotland and is already attracting global attention.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17678 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17678 Fri, 23 Dec 2022 00:18:01 +0000 Coverley
This is a topical post - getting the xmas stuff out of the attic reminded me about upgrading our loft insulation! Here's my embryonic plan ....

Our home is a timber framed house with brick outer leaf built in 2002. There is usually a small amount of condensation on the underside of the roof membrane in winter but on v cold days that drips causing small puddles on items stored up there.

Existing insulation is 200mm rockwool between 100mm high bottom chord of the rafters, ie a gap along the top of each chord.

The central third of the attic is boarded with T&G chipboard on the 100mm timbers so the 200mm insulation here is compressed to 100mm.

The roof has truss rafters at 450 cc with W shape infilled diagonals. Overall plan is 10m x 10m.

I'd like to boost the insulation and also try to improve vapour control.

1 - Vapour control & air tightness

We have plain plasterboard throughout the house, ie no foil backing. The rafters sit on the stud walls hence the top of the stud walls are visible which are obvious air leakage routes.

There is polythene behind the external wall plasterboard but nothing on the ceilings. The edge of the external wall poly is visible from the attic so I could tape along the wall header to join a ceiling vapour barrier to that.

Ignoring the boarded central third, I could pull back the existing insulation on the outer thirds to run a vapour barrier on top of the ceiling plasterboard and over the rafter chords. There would be difficult details where the inner diagonal infill meets the bottom chord. Also at the eaves where the bottom chord oversails the wall to form the eaves.

Is condensation a risk where I will get an inevitable air leakage where the diagonals meet the bottom chord, and where the bottom chord oversails the wall at the eaves?

2 - Extra insulation

Is it worth getting a higher density insulation to provide a bit of a diurnal thermal buffer? This is going to be most noticeable on hot summer nights. If so, I think it more effective to have that under the existing rockwool?

If I don’t go for a vapour barrier how thick can the insulation be before i need to worry about a dew point inside the insulation?

3 - Boarded area

The central third of the W truss is boarded with 22mm T&G chipboard. I suspect this has very low vapour permeability and I could glue 100mm PIR on top then glue 12mm board (OSB for price) on top of that without concern for interstitial condensation?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17667 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17667 Wed, 14 Dec 2022 15:34:41 +0000 Chendy
Any recommendations on which brands/models to look at or avoid?
Naturally, I want all the good stuff, like high ACTUAL efficiency, low cost etc.
Recondemations along this line are helpful.

But, thinking people here can provide guidance to the less google-able aspects.
Like, reliability, service support, flexibility/ability to interface with third party controls etc.

Any tips appreciated!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17699 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17699 Mon, 16 Jan 2023 20:24:43 +0000 wookey
Is there a name for the bulge on the sort of wall that is wider at the bottom, typically the bottom 0.5-1m, usually on fairly old buildings? Any of: the wall-type, the bulge itself, or the shelf/slope on top?

Most bits of buildings have names, but I just failed to find one for this.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17700 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17700 Tue, 17 Jan 2023 07:45:29 +0000 WeeBeastie
If this is not best practice can anyone point me to a drawing showing how it could be improved to minimise cold bridging? Will the new windows be exactly the same sizes as the old ones? I can't find a builder working in my area who has any experience of EWI so am worried about getting this right. Have read a couple of threads here but being a layperson don't fully understand the text descriptions so a drawing would help.

Second issue is how to insulate the lead roof of a bay window. Architect suggests doing this internally so the ventilation is not interfered with - if this is the case then presumably the new window would be lowered at the top to accommodate?

If I lose window size in any of this it's not an issue as they are very generous.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17697 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17697 Mon, 16 Jan 2023 11:20:44 +0000 tony
Any views

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a95krzr4hkhntrf/IMG_2769.jpg?dl=0]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17694 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17694 Thu, 12 Jan 2023 14:12:06 +0000 Mike1
There's an easy-ready version on the MIT website: https://news.mit.edu/2023/roman-concrete-durability-lime-casts-0106 and the scientific paper (not behind a paywall) is at https://www.science.org/doi/10.1126/sciadv.add1602]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17691 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17691 Mon, 09 Jan 2023 15:03:02 +0000 Osprey
For instance, my local installer claims to use Evobead, which claims to have the appropriate 0.033 W/mK thermal rating, but just seems to say the beads are 'grey'. Otherwise, I need to go to a local branch of a national company for e.g. Thermabead 'carbon bead', or similar.

My normal preference would be to go for a local company.

Anybody have any thoughts/knowledge on this? Thanks.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17687 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17687 Mon, 02 Jan 2023 09:13:56 +0000 tony
I have a problem with this philosophy, what if they are wrong?

If or when they are wrong then that is when I have a big problem.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17693 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17693 Tue, 10 Jan 2023 20:10:03 +0000 eniacs
Weve a 12'000L pool in the garden that is dormant in the winter. Its temperature slowly follows ambient, it will take weeks to get down to 5 deg and then weeks to go back to 10 deg too.

Basically Im thinking to use a heat pump to cool the pool water and heat the house. The heat input to the pool would be able to be PLC choosen, ie if the air temp is above pool water temp then run a fan coil and pump to "warm" the pool water from ambient air.

I know its a drastic solution to a simple problem of low COP but my mind keeps going back. Maybe its the engineering challenge.

Has anyone seen a similar project?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17634 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17634 Tue, 08 Nov 2022 12:53:47 +0000 Dominic Cooney I suppose at least there was something, there was nothing in the stud walls that partitioned off the eaves storage space. Also nothing to stop the external air from the eaves blowing all the way across the room, under the floor boards, between the floor joists to the other side. Lets just say it is well ventilated!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17689 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17689 Fri, 06 Jan 2023 11:50:14 +0000 jwd
We have a stone 1800s terraced cottage in SW Scotland. It is listed and in a conservation area. I have a very low budget but I need to replace carpets on the ground floor after a flood from a burst pipe. It seems like a good opportunity to add at least some insulation. Because ceilings are low already I am limited to a couple of inches maximum for the total build up. I cant afford to dig up the slab and also wouldnt be able to cope with the disruption as we would need to move out and there is no alternative temporary housing in the area.
My plan is to use a foam or wood fibre insulation covered by a chip board or fibreboard layer. What I am not sure about is what would be the best insulation to use (pur, polystyrene, wood fibre) and where to put the vapour barrier.

Any help would be very gratefully received.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17683 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17683 Sat, 31 Dec 2022 10:44:09 +0000 Rex
I have a low wattage MR16 dimmable halogen cable light with four bulbs that I would like to 'upgrade' to LED. When I last checked, it seems that it is necessary to exchange the transformer.

But all the numbers are confusing me and not sure what I should be looking for. Is it possible to just do a straight exchange, the same way if exchanged the 240v halogen downlights for LED bulb replacements? Or is it more complex then this?

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17688 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17688 Tue, 03 Jan 2023 08:17:25 +0000 thebeacon
I’m currently working out the U-value for the garden room I plan to build.

I see that the UK building regs stipulate that the values below should not be exceeded:

• External walls: 0.30
• Roofs: 0.20
• Floors: 0.25

My build’s internal floor space is 14sm, which means I don’t have to abide by building regs values, that said I would like to try and at least meet them.

I have been using the Ubakus (https://www.ubakus.com/en/r-value-calculator/?) to help work out my values. My values read as:

Walls: 0.310
Roof: 0.242
Floor: 0.270

These are close to building regs, but they do seem slightly high. I thought using 90 and 100mm pir insulation board would be adequate, particularly because it has such good values.

Have I made a mistake with my calculations? Or would you consider these about, right? I feel like I’m already adding more insulation than what most off the shelf garden rooms have in them.


Below are how my walls, roof and floor are built up.

Wall:
INSIDE
12mm ply
1mm Vapour control membrane
100x47mm stud (400mm centres) with 90mm PIR board insulation
11mm osb3
1mm tyvec firecurb membrane (or similar)
25x50mm timber batten (vertical) 400mm apart
25x50mm timber batten (horizontal) 400mm apart
20mm timber cladding
OUTSIDE

Warm roof:
INSIDE
170x45 roof joist
18mm osb3
1mm Vapour control membrane
100mm PIR board insulation
11mm osb3
3,2mm EDPM
OUTSIDE


Floor:
INSIDE
18mm plywood
1mm Vapour control membrane
150x47mm timber joist with 100mm PIR board insulation between
Osb3 board]]>