Tue, 19 Dec 2023 06:38:56 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12473 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12473 Sat, 23 Aug 2014 11:32:11 +0100 Pingy
The tiles I'm planning on using are large so would benefit from a flat surface. Do I parge the walls with a cement/sand mix first so the blocks are airtight. Are tile backing boards a good idea for providing the flat surface for tiling? If so, would you recommend sticking on the wall with drywall adhesive plus screws?

My aim is to make the walls airtight, provide a flat smooth surface for tiling and not have mould problems in the future. The room does have ufh and will be permanently ventilated with mvhr.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12531 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12531 Sat, 06 Sep 2014 15:30:07 +0100 Bruno As often the case, this problem has probably been covered in previous threads, but (a) building practice seems to be evolving at a fair pace and (b) individual cases always differ slightly; so I’d like to go ahead and pose the following:
How should we best construct an attached garage and utility room (all single storey, and flat-roofed) to the main body of our two-storey new build masonry house, in a robust manner that minimises thermal bridging and maintains airtightness?
The image attached shows the relevant portion of our plans. The house is to be single skin blockwork, externally insulated in EPS (and finished in render). In principle, we could carry the external insulation around the utility room and WC, but enveloping the garage seems a retrograde step as it would introduce the garage door into the ‘thermal boundary’. To complicate matters further, almost all of the side wall abuts the fence of the neighbouring house (with their property immediately up against the other side of this fence), making external insulation difficult (impossible?).
My instinct is to place an external door between the main house and the utility room and to treat the entire single storey element as distinct to the rest of the house, thermally speaking (and perhaps aesthetically too). I’m even considering building (and externally insulating) only the two-storey house first (neatly preserving the main dwelling as an independent, thermally efficient, build) and then constructing the single storey element afterwards. I’m thinking that the utility room might then best be insulated internally.
Alternatively, timber frame might provide an answer to the problem of constructing the wall against the fence, since the exterior face could be fully insulated and finished before erecting. If we go down this route then I’d like to hear from those more knowledgeable than I am as to how best to integrate the timber frame with the masonry construction of the main build.
All thoughts/questions welcomed.
Thank you.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12493 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12493 Thu, 28 Aug 2014 14:21:04 +0100 Triassic
So the Timber Frame company called to ask which insulation package I'm interested in. They offer a range of wall and roof U Values staring at 0.24, which I've discounted as being far to poor. So I'm focusing on their better offering of 0.12 or 0.10 for the walls and 0.18 or 0.13 for the roof.

Starting with the walls - If I got for the 0.12 it will cost me £9,900 and 0.10 will cost me £12,000.

The roof - If I go for 0.18 it will cost me £4,800 and 0.13 will cost me £5,550. All based on the use of PIR.

Is it worth the extra for the better u values. Is PIR the way to go, or would the use of other insulation offer better value for money?

The self build has a floor area of just over 300m2 and the insulation package prices above are supply only, which I would then fit, alternatively I can get it fitted by them at an extra cost.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12533 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12533 Sat, 06 Sep 2014 18:52:10 +0100 tony http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=5167 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=5167 Tue, 12 Jan 2010 13:27:28 +0000 MarkBennett
I guess that airtightness is predominantly dealt with by the traps on the waste pipes, so this probably isn't a major concern. Is this correct?

On the insulation front, it seems to me that having a large diameter pipe running from the inside of the building through to the outside is probably a bad idea thermally. I imagine that with a suitable airflow across the top of the pipe it could suck air up from the sewer and steal a lot of my precious heat from the building. I don't really want to have to insulate it/them to u=0.1... Am I being paranoid? Would the use of an air admittance valve help here?

I think that with our floorplan we may need at least two stack pipes to service all the wet rooms. I'm not very keen on having visible stack pipes protruding through the roof of our nice clean contemporary design. What's the best way of minimising the visual impact? It looks like air admittance valves can be fitted internally, with no need to penetrate through the building fabric. Am I interpreting this correctly? If so, does it work in the real world?

Some searching found http://markbrinkley.blogspot.com/2005/09/avoiding-drain-smells-in-bathroom.html which refers to a Hepworth product which if used appropriately can avoid the need for a soil stack at all. Anyone know if this really works or if they bring additional problems?

Bottom line - what is the state of the art for soil stacks in a Passivhaus?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12524 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12524 Wed, 03 Sep 2014 19:36:22 +0100 matt-2052 I am starting the planning process for a 150m2 detached house including a workshop. I have gone through Pre-planning which was helpful and a good stear on certain things. I have the backing of the local Parish Council as long as the design fits in locally.
Obviously the house will be well insulated, 3G and airtight as possible with possibility of PV if I can afford it.The site is South facing.
I have been thinking (and looking) at timber frame/warmcell/Fermacell type construction- Like Viking House! Although I am open to others ideas/options depending on cost etc. I have been reading this forum for a couple of years now (so have gained some good information already-many thanks) while saving and mulling over ideas!
Does anyone know of a good architect and timber frame manufacturer who is reasonably local- nearest towns are Shrewsbury, Newtown, Oswestry- that sort of area.
Thanks, Matt]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12520 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12520 Wed, 03 Sep 2014 13:20:24 +0100 richardelliot
I know that you can claim back the VAT on a new build, but does anyone have any experience on whether it is possible to claim back the VAT paid in another EU country via the HMRC return?

We feel the quality of the kitchen is very good for the price, so will be buying it regardless of whether or not we can claim back the VAT, but obviously I'd like to claim back the money if I can!

Thanks,
Richard]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12476 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12476 Sat, 23 Aug 2014 21:13:59 +0100 Nick Parsons
Thanks.

Nick]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12443 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12443 Tue, 12 Aug 2014 22:25:31 +0100 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=5890 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=5890 Tue, 08 Jun 2010 11:27:23 +0100 andybw Building new extension with lean-to slate tile roof abutting ex gable stone wall. To ensure decent weatherproof junction I have been advised to insert cavity tray within ex lakeland stone wall, length approx 10m.
What are the complications of a builder undertaking this and what alternatives are there without using exposed lead/mortar junction?
Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12337 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12337 Tue, 15 Jul 2014 09:22:12 +0100 Triassic
I now find that there is only one quarry within the National Park and hence a supply monopoly. Is it right that the planners should be imposing an absolute requirement to buy Lord Soansos very expensive and monopolistic slate, what ever happen to the competition rules?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12461 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12461 Sun, 17 Aug 2014 17:09:12 +0100 Chunkylover
For heating we have been advised to install underfloor heating on all floors. With the current insulation regulations we're slightly worried of the possibility of damp issues should the property not have sufficient ventilation.

The question is should we be installing an MVHR system on top of the underfloor heating. ?? Or will trickle vents on the windows be enough to provide ventilation??

I feel if we have both installed one or the other may be seldom used.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12451 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12451 Fri, 15 Aug 2014 07:29:48 +0100 HammerandChisel
I am embarking on a single storey extension project on our home.
I am really struggling to find any flat roof details
utilising sips.
Also beam and block details with good thermal breaks seem hard to find.
Can anyone help?

Thanks

Matt]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12269 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12269 Fri, 27 Jun 2014 18:05:13 +0100 alexphd1 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12418 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12418 Sat, 09 Aug 2014 10:46:09 +0100 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12288 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12288 Tue, 01 Jul 2014 09:49:05 +0100 Triassic
The building is timber frame and I'd like to keep the cladding battens as thin as possible to maximise internal space. Any suggestion as to absolute minimum?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12392 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12392 Sat, 02 Aug 2014 15:04:50 +0100 jmansion
Lime Technology claim it can be sprayed.

I'll ask them but the complexity is, that this would be for a building in Central Portugal, and it is relatively unlikely that they would be supplying materials.

James]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12391 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12391 Sat, 02 Aug 2014 13:19:13 +0100 woodgnome Sorted membrane for "Tony Tray".
Blockwork/ cavity construction.
Whats the best method of maintaining airtightness where the joist runs parallel with the wall?
Is it easiest to lay the first row of blocwork that runs parallel and parge before starting to fit joists..or try to parge when joist fitted..or put membrane around all perimiter and seal as at joist ends.
Next question. Whats preferred parge coat made up of? I was thinking either a bagged parge coat or just sand/ cement / lime at 6:1:1.
Last question.Do you parge internal partition blockwork walls as well as perimiter.
Internal walls sat on reinforced suspended slab.
Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6204 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=6204 Thu, 26 Aug 2010 15:27:24 +0100 nigelm I am looking for suitable floor covering for a limecrete floor, the options so far are

1. Wood
2. Limestone tile
3. Just polish the limecrete

The flooring needs to be breathable to allow the limecrete to absorb / release water vapour, and I would obviously like to have a natural finish. I am not sure if polishing the limecrete would work and how practical the floor would then be (I do have a vague recollection of a grand design using a lime screed). The Limestone tiles would be nice but again how practical would the tiles be without them being sealed.

I should say that I am looking for a nice clean contemporary look to the finished floor.

Any advice / opinion would be most gratefully received.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11973 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11973 Sun, 13 Apr 2014 22:09:27 +0100 divorcingjack
I'm looking to DIY install our MVHR system and have it professionally commissioned and balanced. I also had the though that I would design the ducting, but I've just spent a VERY frustrating couple of hours trying to make some headway.

I've now come to the conclusion that visualising ducting in 3D is not my strong point.

Are there companies/individuals that will design a ducting system without requiring me to buy all their bits and bobs? I already have the unit and was planning on buying all the other materials myself.Any idea of costs? Had a scary quote for PHPP modelling, so don't want to go down that road again!

Suggestions of people who actually know what they're talking about would be much appreciated.

cheers,
dj]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12037 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12037 Thu, 01 May 2014 10:02:55 +0100 calvinmiddle
Below is some of the reason why they recommend radial ducting over branch ducting - sure some of it is sales speak but does anyone have any option on if this is valid. do you have to buy the ducting from the MHRV unit manufacturer, or is there good inexpensive ducting that will fit most units?

•A ‘branch’ ducting system with flexi, metal or PVC pipe is also prone to acoustic issues, either a whistling from the supply/extract valves nearest to the fan motors or 'cross talk' travelling form one room to another.

By far the best kind of ducting in a domesitic or small commercial property is the new semi-rigid ‘radial’ ducting. The benefits radial ducting include:

•Flexible enough to thread through joists, between stud walls and other tight spaces (ideal for retrofit).
•Eliminates the risk of cross talk between rooms as every room has its own dedicated air pipe connected to a sound-proof manifold. The manifold also eliminates any motor noise from the MVHR fans.
•Can be cleaned in the future as it has a smooth internal bore and there are no sharp bends. While advisable at the moment, this feature is likely to become a requirement under building regulations.
•Incredibly low air resistance meaning the MVHR fans have less work to do, making the unit quieter, more energy efficient and (in theory) extending the life of the motors.
•Far easier and quicker to install as it clips together with no gluing & taping. One continuous length runs from (near) the unit to the room. The pipe can be cut neatly with a blunt knife rather than awkwardly with a saw. The install time is normally a lot less than that of rigid PVC ducting. It’s ideal for DIYers or builders new to MVHR work. The risk of boxing in a leaky pipe is almost nil.
•Partially insulated to reduce heat loss through the ducting. It can also be lagged with mineral wool without the condensation risks associated with PVC ducting.
•Extremely durable with a higher tensile strength than any other.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12271 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12271 Sat, 28 Jun 2014 08:28:59 +0100 Triassic
I hadn't realised property construction had picked up so much!

So I have a to find another timber frame company to take the place of the Latvians, any recommendations?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12352 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12352 Fri, 18 Jul 2014 19:12:08 +0100 Rwatking
Anyone have any experience of slippery oak staircases? Is this likely to be a problem or not? If so, any suggestions?

Thanks in anticipation.

Roger]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11583 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11583 Sat, 04 Jan 2014 16:08:24 +0000 owlman http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12359 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12359 Mon, 21 Jul 2014 13:28:07 +0100 djh
The timber frame will be filled with cellulose on Wednesday, so whatever I'm going to to needs to be done quickly. Another goal is that the house is airtight when we finish, and remains so.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12340 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12340 Tue, 15 Jul 2014 20:58:14 +0100 woodgnome Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12343 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12343 Wed, 16 Jul 2014 10:55:27 +0100 Triassic
I find it odd that Radon is the second largest killer in the Uk after smoking and yet the official radon protection document has to be paid for?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12315 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12315 Wed, 09 Jul 2014 16:56:12 +0100 djh
We've found a place where as-drawn doesn't look ideal when it comes to actually build it. Each window sits on a piece of OSB (actually they are screwed to the OSB). The plan was to put an airtight membrane on top of the OSB and fancy tape the edge into the interior plaster under the window. The window board sits on top of the membrane. The difficulty is how to secure the window board?

Screwing through it from the top is not appealing because of the difficulty of making the holes invisible in perpetuity. So we'd prefer the alternative method of gluing down the window board. But how can we glue the window board to the OSB, perhaps with an airtight membrane in between, in such a way as to guarantee airtightness?

Is there some airtight glue? Or some airtight membrane that can be glued on both surfaces and still function?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12311 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12311 Tue, 08 Jul 2014 23:46:02 +0100 djh
What I'm not sure is how best to finish it to get good noise isolation cost effectively. I expect the first floor finishes will be a mixture of engineered wood, linoleum, some carpet and maybe some tiles. But what to use for the ceiling? What to put in the under-floor void? And do we need anything on top of the structural floor?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12262 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12262 Thu, 26 Jun 2014 17:58:36 +0100 Triassic
Also, I'd like to fix the cladding with any surface nailing, anyone got any recommendation on technique or tools to help secret nail (or clip) without damaging the rather expensive boards??]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12284 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12284 Sun, 29 Jun 2014 22:50:43 +0100 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12291 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12291 Tue, 01 Jul 2014 15:13:15 +0100 ferdinand2000
I'm looking for a way that permits carpeting of tiled floors without chipping or spray-glueing the tiles - because in a rented situation some people like a solid floor and some like a soft floor. As an LL, my ideal is a porcelain tiled floor over the entire ground floor for durability and minimal maintenance, and because it is more suitable for the 'dog friendly' niche.

But if it is a bungalow I'd like to do that in the bedrooms as well, which some people don't like.

My first idea is a wooden strip round the outside - say 50mm or 75mm - that can be replaced should it get ruined by eg grip strips if an unauthorised carpet is put down. What could happen is that someone says that tiled floors are OK because the house is good, then decides they want a carpet. It gets put down, and is a breach of contract but not serious enough to warrant the disturbance on either side of ending a tenancy. If the LL is a complete tartar or brute the Courts would sensibly overrule the claim anyway if it wasn't a no fault eviction.

My question: has anyone done this, or do we know if there are there any materials that will take carpet gripper tacks and 'self-heal' afterwards?

There may be a couple of side benefits - the strip could be sized to avoid cutting tiles and could potentially be the top of a service void (if it can be made to work with the floor structure). I can see ways to handle the join neatly.

Ferdinand]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12248 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12248 Tue, 24 Jun 2014 12:19:01 +0100 Triassic
The problem is bedrock only 2.5 m down! Can anyone suggest a low profile system that could sit on the bedrock with so little soil cover.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12258 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12258 Wed, 25 Jun 2014 19:00:32 +0100 woodgnome One side of the roof will be exposed to severe driving rain from the SW at times.
Render finish to outerleaf.
Any ideas for stepped trays or something better?
The standard trays ( i found a couple of old ones for a 100mm cavity) will prevent maintaining full depth insulation
Not sure if i can get 200mm cavity trays anyway. What are the alternatives?
Mate reckons less insulation is better than a wet living room wall..]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12229 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12229 Fri, 20 Jun 2014 09:39:31 +0100 Triassic
So having taken advice from an electrician friend he suggests we drop the overhead supply down the power pole and terminate it in a box. This will help reduce costs, as terminating the supply in a box containing the main fuse and switch and meter is priced by the Power Company as one job (to move it to a temporary box and then move it back into the new house is two jobs and hence twice the price). We would then distribute the power within the site via ducts to the house, garage and shed.

So the question is what sort of box? He's suggested a brick build box with EDP roof, however he did also say that GRP enclosures are available in green (helps hide the thing within the garden. What did you do? Any suggestions?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12257 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12257 Wed, 25 Jun 2014 18:42:52 +0100 Cerisy
Talking of fixing the frame to the raft I am planning to use resin fixed threaded bars. But can I simply push the bars into the wet concrete?

Your advice will - as always - be much appreciated.

Kind regards, Jonathan]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12252 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12252 Tue, 24 Jun 2014 21:29:59 +0100 woodgnome Garage is 100mm block/100mm cavity/100mm block.
Other half wants downlighters above door as well...i cant see how i can do it with lintel in place.
Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12247 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12247 Mon, 23 Jun 2014 23:08:04 +0100 richardelliot
We've specified insulation well above currently building regs and triple glazing throughout, but it apparently isn't enough without any renewable technology. (I am not sure if it is a common problem or because we have quite a bit of glazing.)

It seems I am now faced with a choice of either PV, an air source or ground source heat pump. My build is in London so connecting to mains gas, electricity etc.. isn't a problem.

My initial thoughts are to go for PV. Although I don't have a lot of south facing roof, the systems seem cheaper to install, payback periods are shorter and the electricity has flexible uses (e.g. to power my computer when I'm on the forum or to heat water for me if I have no other need for it.)

Heat pumps seem expensive to install (ground) or can be noisy (air). I am going to install underfloor heating downstairs, where I believe they are effective, but radiators upstairs, where I think they are less good. I am also not sure how useful they are for domestic hot water?

Does anyone have any advice on the way to go? Or factors I should be considering?

Thanks,
Richard]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12253 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12253 Wed, 25 Jun 2014 06:54:55 +0100 Triassic
Next I need to sit the Timber Frame in top of the blockwork and ensure the insulation is continuous and eliminating any thermal bridging, anyone got any suggestions or detail drawings how this could be achieved?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12177 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12177 Sat, 07 Jun 2014 09:33:00 +0100 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12185 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12185 Mon, 09 Jun 2014 18:02:15 +0100 AMG MY new build comprises of EWI (160mm graphite EPS) onto solid block work (220mm). The EPS has had adhesive fix around the whole perimeter of each block and any gaps were then foam filled.

I am wondering what the best way is to finish of the internal surface? - especially with regards becoming as airtight as economically possible? Options (if I have understood correctly) -

1. Parge coat and then dry line
2. Wet plaster throughout
3. VCL to wall/ceiling then batten and screw fix plasterboard leaving a service void
3. VCL to wall/ceilings, batten and fill void with 25mm celotex but leaving an air void for services, then plasterboard

or dot dab plasterboard straight onto block work but ensure perimeter has continuous adhesive given that external wall has no cavity and has EWI with render - thereby hopefully stopping the wind getting through?

Ayaz]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12045 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12045 Sat, 03 May 2014 12:46:41 +0100 AMG
I'm struggling to work out what to do with our new build. It's open plan and has two large openings either end of the house measuring 2.56 by 2.56m and 2.6 by 2.56m. I thought about inserting 2 sets of bifold doors. I have not been able to find sliding doors with a height of 2.56m
We are also having MVHR and I think from reading posts that bifold doors will leak air. How much of a problem would this? We have EWI on the walls (160 EPS).

Can anyone suggest a good set of bifold doors or sliding doors. Sunflex have been recommended.
FOr the windows of the house we were thinking of going or alu clad velfac windows.

Appreciate your thoughts.
Ayaz]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12186 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12186 Mon, 09 Jun 2014 18:26:08 +0100 woodgnome Question i have is do i need to put a membrane between the stonework and outer concrete block? I know the stonework and lime mortar will let moisture wick, but i wondered how wet the outer conc block will get during driving rain. We are on a very exposed site weatherwise. I considered putting some dpm lapped at the joints..mate reckons this will cause problems if water gets behind it and cant get out. Any opinions welcome....
Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12189 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12189 Mon, 09 Jun 2014 22:29:35 +0100 aa44
Thanks
AA]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10462 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10462 Fri, 05 Apr 2013 16:06:42 +0100 Greenfish
Open to recommendations for uPVC, aluminium or ali-clad products - it is near the coast and I am not prepared to do the maintenance required by timber (have painted windows and I don't want to have to do so again!). But of course I want the best u values I can get (within cost limits). What would good values for a patio door be? What features should I look for?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11930 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11930 Fri, 04 Apr 2014 08:14:48 +0100 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12134 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12134 Tue, 27 May 2014 21:44:03 +0100 debbiel http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11954 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11954 Wed, 09 Apr 2014 18:25:33 +0100 woodgnome Any ideas?
Ta.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12070 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12070 Fri, 09 May 2014 11:17:27 +0100 Triassic
Having dug a trial hole I struck limestone bedrock at just over 1 metre deep. I was thinking of using 12 concrete block piers to support the building. Is this the correct approach when constructing foundations for this type of building near trees?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12067 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12067 Thu, 08 May 2014 14:02:27 +0100 Pigglet I'm currently (as in today) in the process of constructing the floor but have just had a phone call from the builder that has halted me in my tracks!

Proposed construction is slate tiles on a reinforced 125mm thick concrete slab with the UFH pipes cable tied to the rebar in the middle of the slab. Slab will sit on 150mm of Celotex which sits on a dolomite base, so

20mm slate flooring
125mm reinforced slab with UFH in centre and 25mm celotex around perimeter.
150mm celotex
200mm compacted dolomite.

The builder has just enquired about the concrete and when he told the supplier what it was for the supplier said we should be using no more than a 50mm screed on top of the UFH pipes.

My logic with our initially proposed method of construction is that once up to temperature it should provide a relatively stable heat output and allow us to add heat to it whenever we want to as opposed to just when we want that room warm.

It would also act as a bit of a heat/cool store in summer helping to regulate the temperature of the room if it picks up solar gain during bright days?????

Can anyone advise on which approach may be best as I want to get the floor finished asap but don't want to have to dig up the 13tonnes of dolomite I'm about to put down
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