Tue, 19 Dec 2023 03:55:47 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17830 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17830 Sat, 06 May 2023 23:16:57 +0100 WillInAberdeen http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17756 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17756 Sat, 25 Feb 2023 12:29:54 +0000 zak99
With an ancient Oil Boiler we were hoping for help with GSHP but we ended up with rad valves, and Solar Thermal.

We were supposed to get new LED bulbs too but that never happened despite asking.

My main issue is to get the Solar Thermal job finished either with or without them

My other observations are

I wish the surveyor had Specced the panel on the lower South facing garage roof seen in the picture.
In its current East position the panel should surely have been higher than where it is now
Should the display panel be downstairs in the airing cupboard

They have arrived late in the day for just about every visit and there have been many visits however all the contractors have been polite and pleasant and had far to travel though. There have been several no shows without any contact. Communication of arrival times, no shows, rebooking has been very poor by the office. I’m in limbo at the moment as they are just not getting back to me with an agreeable rebooking for the electrician who didn’t show. He needed a 20 core cable I believe.

I felt the panel looked high above the tiles compared to the thinner PV panels so asked for bird mesh to blend it in but was quoted £380 + vat for just one panel so declined.

The panel was installed without scaffolding from ladders on a frosty day which is perhaps why he never put the panel at the top.

One day when the plumbers were here a manager unexpectedly waltzed through my front door without saying hello or introducing himself as if I didn’t exist. After a chat with a plumber the manager dragged out the ancient copper cylinder and started putting in in his car. I asked the plumbers do you get the money for that, no not a penny. So I politely took it back from the guy who grumpily argued with me that it was not mine. I gave the plumbers the expected cash for the cylinder as that’s the way I am, the workers deserve the bonus. I guess I pissed them off !!

So where do I go now please? Whats your thoughts please?

I hope you can see the photos in this link, they are bigger if clicked on

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0T532ODWJlHmS

(if theres a better way to add pics pls let me know)

Rgds]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17825 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17825 Fri, 28 Apr 2023 16:34:15 +0100 TigoDog
I'm helping my dad convert a 19th century hay barn into a 3 bed home that he'll live in. We're aiming for Band A EPC, so a very high level of insulation and air tightness, if not quite PassivHaus standard.

We effectively have a blank slate, so I'm interested in the GBF hive mind's opinion on the best heating solution. We are expecting to use an air-source heat pump, and I know the most commonly done method is an air-to-water system, heating water for UFH and general use. However, there is no existing wet heating system and I'm interested in air-to-air systems, particularly ducted systems (not wall mounted units). My thinking is that it should be more efficient to use the warm air created by the ASHP to heat the home directly, rather than losing energy in converting warm air to warm water. Also, UFH is expensive to install and ducted air should be cheaper(?). I'm also interested in how it could interact with Mechanical Ventilation. I imagine it would add complexity, but for the money I've seen quoted for UFH, I'd guess you could get a very high-end warm air/ventilation setup.

I know warm air systems were wide spread in residential buildings in the 70s - but were not popular as I understand it. They are common in commercial buildings (HVAC) and I assume they have come along way in the last 50 years, but most contractors I speak to seem to be pushing wet UFH. I'm trying to understand if this is just 'what they're used to' installing, more profitable, or if it is genuinely a better solution.

I appreciate he'd need a separate solution for hot water if we use the warm air system. He has space for solar, or if not, would an electric water heater would do the trick, or would that negate the efficiency gains? I've seen this system which does both in another thread, but according to the Daikin installer I spoke to, it isn't yet available in the UK market. https://www.daikin.eu/en_us/product-group/air-to-air-heat-pumps/multiplus.htm

My dad is relatively open to both options, but I wouldn't want to push something on him that doesn't work well, or 'feel nice'.

The barn is in the South of England (Berkshire). I include plans, which I have permission to post.

I'd welcome your opinions, or alternatively suggestions of contractors that can help.

Thanks in advance!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17826 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17826 Mon, 01 May 2023 13:23:19 +0100 Victorianeco
I bought a tube but can't remember the name of it

Possibly sikaflex perhaps? Any thoughts?

I need to buy another tube]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17703 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17703 Thu, 19 Jan 2023 11:54:43 +0000 Simon Still This is our install - its' in a cupboard in our home workshop. Because that's a dusty space I didn't connect the MVHR for that room (but we open the door to outside a number of times each day and frequently open the door to the rest of the house). However, it's *possible* the room is a bit more humid than the rest of the house with two of us frequently spending the day in it. But the door to the cupboard is fairly well sealed so there shouldn't be a lot of air movement into it.

In cold weather we get some condensation on top of the machine (which runs down the side or through the case and drips onto the floor from the front right corner (which must be the lowest point). It's not a huge amount - if a pot is put under it never builds up to much and if that plastic crate is in the right place I think it collects and evaporates from there without ever overflowing, but it had got moved and there was a paint tin sitting under it....

The pipe from outside is clad in rigid insulation and the spaces it runs through are also filled with glass fire insulation (and clearly the air is still cold when it hits the MVHR cupboard).

The last stretch of flexi pipe with glass fibre insulation is clearly the worst in terms of both the level of insulation and the sealing. In fact it might not even be the pipe thats the issue - the exposed plastic nozzle it attaches to and that part of machine are effectively cold and poorly insulated.

Is this normal and unavoidable for an MVHR installed in an internal space or is there some way of improving it?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17817 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17817 Wed, 19 Apr 2023 11:10:10 +0100 bgasparotto
We are just getting our whole house rewire finished and will soon be able to fill up the chases for the new wires. Our house is a 1910 Victorian build type and has 4 different types of walls. I am wondering what's the best material to fill the voids?
They are all about 25mm deep x 65mm wide, the wires are enclosed in oval conduits. I will describe below what each wall is according to the enumerated picture :D

1. External solid brick wall plastered with lime (probably mixed with ash, hence the dark grey). Will be insulated with wood fibre boards so the finish is not important at this layer but it needs to breath.

2. Internal solid wall. It seems to have clay (?) breezed blocks. Plastered with lime as the external walls. The finish is important here as we would like to remove the wallpaper around it, fill some holes, sand and paint it with clay paint.

3. Internal stud lath and plaster wall. The plaster is also lime. Finish is important on this one too.

4. External wall of modern-ish extension. It seems to be a cavity wall with breeze blocks plastered with gypsum. Finish might be important as I am unsure how this will be insulated (maybe in the cavity, but haven't gone into it yet).

I don't mind having to work extra with lime materials for 1, 2 and 3 that take longer to set as long as we make it good with the best materials we can and closer to original. When it comes the time to plaster the external wall WF boards I will probably use limegreen solo, but I am wondering what's best for these smaller jobs. As for 4, I suspect that's a job for gypsum based materials?

Thanks in advance!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17614 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17614 Thu, 20 Oct 2022 19:27:17 +0100 WillInAberdeen
This will be interesting! Good for battery owners.

"National Grid has significantly increased its financial incentive for households that shift their power usage away from peak times as part of a renewed effort to prevent rolling power cuts."

"Its electricity system operator (ESO) has increased the incentive sixfold to £3 per kilowatt hour to encourage households to use their washing machines and appliances late at night, which could mean typical savings of £100 this winter."]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17810 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17810 Sat, 08 Apr 2023 12:19:53 +0100 billyb_1234
According to the RICS surveyor: " The main issue relates to the roof coverings. They are old (some 90 years I would estimate) and at the end of their useful life expectancy. The photographs give some idea of condition. Patch repairs have been carried out externally in the past. Daylight can be seen in a few places from within the roof void. There is no underfelt. You will need to budget for new coverings, pre-treated battens and vapour-permeable felt".

The survey also suggested it is quite likely that there may have been damp penetration problems with the chimneys, so I was considering the possibility of removing the stacks. In regards to loft insulation, the surveyor said "Some insulation is present within the roof void although this is considered inadequate having regard to current standards. A minimum thickness of 270mm of fibreglass quilt or a similar standard of insulating material should be provided throughout, ensuring that any essential ventilation openings are not obstructed"

The EPC rating is currently band E with potential for band B. The property is my primary residence and my main goal is to reduce energy costs and my carbon footprint.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17824 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17824 Thu, 27 Apr 2023 08:32:58 +0100 kaicasswell
Ground temps at that depths are pretty constant so it seems I don’t need as much as a normal ground floor?
The architects just put 150mm but that seems excessive.
Please and thank you!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17823 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17823 Wed, 26 Apr 2023 08:37:46 +0100 thebeacon
I have a question about how best to install a vapour control layer in the floor or my timber framed garden room.

The VCL will sit above the joists (with insulation between) and under 18mm OSB, which will form the subbase of the garden room. My question is, should the VCL be cut to the same size at the floor area, or should there be extra membrane left that can be folded back over the 18mm OSB floor?

If I installed the VCL with additional membrane, the wall bottom plate could sit on it and the extra membrane could be wrapped up the internal wall and fixed to the VCL I install in the wall. Would this make sense? The VCL that sits under the walls bottom plate would be punctured by the nails that fix the bottom plate in the subframe. Butyl tape could be used between the bottom plate and subframe to seal the nail punctures. My concern with using butyl tape is the thickness of it and I feel it would be better to have a solid contact between the bottom plates of the walls and the subframe.

I might be over thinking it all and it’s best to simply to install the VCL cut to the same size at the floor area.

I have attached two drawings to illustrate the build-up of the project.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16574 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16574 Mon, 25 May 2020 19:58:16 +0100 Kenny_M Hope you are all keeping well. One advantage of lockdown has been the amount of work I have been getting done on the house, with my extension now finished and moving into the old part of the house.

I am about to fit a new floor in a downstairs bathroom and have been thinking about filling the underfloor void with EPS beads before I close it up, as a few threads on here have suggested. House is ~150-200 years old. Its difficult to find supplier of the beads, but found one supplier custompac who will deliver a pallet of 2265 litres for £164.88. Not sure if this is about right because I can’t find any alternatives. They don’t mention a thermal conductivity value so presume its not the graphite type, but as it will be between 300 to 500mm deep its maybe not critical.

I can see a lot of benefits from this, and the reduction in draughts probably as much of a benefit as the floor insulation, but can anyone suggest any issues/risks I should consider?

If I go ahead I presume all I need to do is protect any electrical cables, fill any large gaps where air could come in or beads go out with expanding foam, then pour the beads in.

I know that in walls this is normally mixed with a bonding agent, and have seen a suggestion of a weak pva mix on one thread. As I am pouring in from the top, would this still be necessary? I would be able to leave floor open for a while to give it a chance to settle then top up.

Any comments pro or against, much appreciated as always.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17802 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17802 Thu, 30 Mar 2023 13:48:55 +0100 greenfinger
I’m in the process of insulating my bathroom. I’ve taken the plasterboard down and put PIR between the rafters and joists, with more PIR beneath, perpendicular. We have a cold roof. The bathroom is more skeilings than ceilings. In the rafters, I’ve left a 50mm air gap between the topside of the PIR and the roof felt.

In the corner of the room there is a sewage/stench pipe from floor to ceiling and through the roof. I plan to box this in. I’m a bit confused about how best to tackle the stench pipe from a insulation and ventilation point of view... Presumably it will form a thermal bridge?

- Should I insulate and seal around where the pipe goes through the ceiling and PIR?
- Can I insulate around the pipe from floor to ceiling inside the boxing?

That’s what I had planned to do, but I then got confused as to whether this could cause problems with condensation or anything else on the pipe seeing as part of it is outdoors? The solution doesn’t need to be top notch from an insulation point of view; it’s an old house which will always have compromises. But with the pipe being out of site once boxed in, I want to make sure I get it right and don’t cause any hidden problems.

Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17822 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17822 Tue, 25 Apr 2023 13:37:11 +0100 djh
I'm not sure what I think of it. Probably low carbon but I'm not sure about how good its performance is. Hint: it's a mixture of cob (i.e. earth and straw) and light-earth (i.e. hemp & clay) techniques.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17820 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17820 Fri, 21 Apr 2023 14:56:49 +0100 wholaa has any one tried Zehnder ComfoTube flat 51? Are they prone to pressure loss and noise? They seem great for tight spaces but I heard some mixed reports so Id love to hear from people who tried it. Thanks a lot]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17801 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17801 Wed, 29 Mar 2023 14:00:26 +0100 Rex
We have one small room (larder) that sometimes, has a presumably, distinct sewerage smell.

There can only be one source, but it has me flummoxed.

The down pipe from the toilet is show in the photo. It goes through around 9 cms of screed, 150 cms of insulation and 150 cms of poured concrete, with an elbow to take the flow under the garage to the front of the garage.

The wall on the left is the kitchen with the sink drainage from the top. The wall behind is the larder which is where we have the smell. The toilet area does not smell whatsoever.

There is no evidence of any leakage or dampness on the floor, there are no holes anywhere. Unfortunately, internal viewing access is rather limited or more likely, virtually impossible.

Beneath the slab is just limited crawl space with no access, it was never filled with soil. If in the worst case, the pipe has disconnected and emptying sewerage onto the earth, I cannot see how the smell would only be in one small room.

I frequently flush the pipe to ensure there is no blockage and it always clears clears and flushing the toilet reveals that all is OK.

Grateful for any thoughts]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17804 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17804 Sat, 01 Apr 2023 10:15:40 +0100 djh
I'd guess there's some strange HTML (or spam or malware?) been uploaded that has blown Vanilla 1.0.3's little brain.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17816 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17816 Mon, 17 Apr 2023 18:51:35 +0100 adamsmith
We are about to have our first airtight test done, if the results are good we would like to go ahead with MVHR self-installation.

Does anyone have any particular radial systems they would recommend? Due to us having limited space it does need to be a radial system.

Also are there any design principles that need to be followed I’m thinking based on my current understanding:

• Extraction only for (WC, ensuite, and bathroom)
• Supply only for small rooms (study, living room)
• X2 supply and extraction for 60m2 kitchen/ lounge/ diner
• X1 supply x1 extraction in the largest master bedroom
• X1 supply for medium size bedrooms

Attached is our construction drawing, any advice is really appreciated]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17805 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17805 Mon, 03 Apr 2023 08:17:04 +0100 thebeacon
I have a question about breaking the thermal bridge of my metal sip panels at the roof and wall junction.

I have been designing my garden room using Kingspan QuadCore Insulated Composite Roof Panels (KS1000RW) (https://www.steelroofsheets.co.uk/products/kingspan-ks1000rw-quadcore-insulated-composite-panels/) sitting onto the timber frame. The timber frame has 90mm pir insulation in it. The walls then have a 70mm Kingspan Quadcore AWP Micro-Rib Wall Panels externally cladding to reduce the thermal bridging in the walls (https://www.steelroofsheets.co.uk/products/ks1000mr-kingspan-micro-rib-composite-panels/).

I have overlooked the junction of the roof and wall and have realised that there will be a thermal bridge between on the underside of the roof panel going from the inside of the room to the overhang of the roof on the exterior. I have thought of a few ideas to solve this, but would like to know if anyone has any thoughts or suggestions?

The ideas I have thought of:

1. Cut the underside of the SIP with a circular saw just deep enough so it only cuts the metal. Make this cut where the panel hits the middle of the bearing wall. The only metal skin removed is the width of the saw cut. The roof panels are attached and supported with matching metal from the SIP supplier screwed to the outside of the wall and the bottom side of the roof panel. The metal is bent to match the angle created by the intersection of the wall and roof panel. My concern with this is the structural integrity of the panels. The overhang at the front of the room is no more than 700mm and I don’t intend to stand on it.

2. Insulate the underside of the overhang on the outside with 30mm pir. This would essentially insulate the area that would cause the thermal bridge.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17819 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17819 Fri, 21 Apr 2023 09:23:18 +0100 DavidND
We are moving in a max of three years so I want to do the best vfm job I can to deliver a usable space for the next owners. My 'idea' is that I build a solid wall to the north side, replace the roof with a solid one and highly insulate floor, roof & walls to make it the usable space it needs to be.

Has anyone done anything similar? What was your experience like? What do I need to consider? Got any advice?

Thanks
David :cool:

btw if this is in the wrong place pls feel free to move it :bigsmile:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17791 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17791 Wed, 22 Mar 2023 14:48:07 +0000 Rex
Have been renewing the silicone around the bath tiles and to get a neat finish around the tap, I removed it. And while in my hands, decided to give it a clean, including the bit that is arrowed.

Unfortunately, I cannot actually remove it as years of (soft) water have kinda 'welded' it in place. Apart from taking a Dremel to it, what suggestions for removal? I guess now it is also somewhat distorted which probably only makes it more difficult to remove.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17795 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17795 Sun, 26 Mar 2023 07:24:28 +0100 wholaa I was inspired by comments on this forum that toilet cisterns can chill bathrooms unnecessarily. I looked into the topic and found high-end toilets tend to be insulated, for example, Toto Japanese toilets (EPS). So I have been experimenting with this and trying to find the best way. I tried squirty foam, but it is very messy and bulky. It can be trimmed, but water enters many bubbles and may compromise the insulation properties. Anyway, when I did half of a cistern with squirty foam, I could see the side of the toilet cistern with squirty foam was a solid 2-3°C warmer than the non-treated parts. Has anyone else tried other methods? EPS glued on PVA glue?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17814 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17814 Sun, 16 Apr 2023 18:28:34 +0100 davidlithy@gmail.com
I am looking at a retrofit project (theoretical study). The project involves the retrofit of a Wimpey no-fines concrete terrace block.

I will be specifying an EWI to the walls, but I was wondering if anybody could kindly offer some suggestions on what would be the optimal solution in terms of thermal bridging/continuity of insulation concerning the single-storey section/flat roof (as attached indicative photo).]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17813 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17813 Sun, 16 Apr 2023 11:48:33 +0100 cc64 I'm in the process of exposing the sub dpc walls down to foundation level on my early 1990 terrace in preparation for installing some EWI.

In the process I've exposed several 100mm plastic drains. One superficial (~ centred about 300mm below GL) pipe taking low from a gutter downpipe, had some token peashingle (rounded not sharp), if nothing like the 100mm alaround as suggested by NHBC docs. The other two are soil/sewer, deeper (~80mm below dpc, 65mm below GL) have not a hint of any such bedding nor sidefill nor backfill - they're just embedded in rubbly subsoil. Has guidance changed or is this yet more corner/costs cutting in evidence?

Each of these soil/sewer pipes has also been supported on bricks, again counter to current NHBC guidance ("Bricks, blocks or other hard material should not be used as temporary supports to achieve the correct gradients, as they may create hard spots which can distort the completed pipe run."). I despair.

For reasons that probably don't need spelt out I'm reluctant to mess with the obvious deficiencies of these two; they've been in place for 30 years, not broken, so don't fix them.

When it comes to infill time I can setup some temporary shuttering around each to reinstate 100mm pipe bedding gravel alaround each. Does that seem an adequate pragmatic approach to their otherwise inadequate installation?

Lastly these two were left generous 550mm wide gaps to emerge through. These were filled with 3 applications of coarse (ie big aggregate) concrete. Each application slumped to protrude beyond the face of the surrounding blocks - not great for EWI skirt application. I've knocked off these protuberant bits but this does leave me with some fairly substantial voids. I'm thinking to fill these with non-slumping concrete. The cumulative experience here might have better ideas. Happy to hear these.

If someone can tell me what photoimagesize is accepted here I can post a pic. It didn't like my phone default 3Meg photo

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17815 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17815 Sun, 16 Apr 2023 20:29:36 +0100 Dougmlancs
We’re planning on redecorating most of the house at some point so the disruption of insulating internally doesn’t matter and I could do the work myself but there are some areas like the kitchen and bathrooms which are all on external walls which would be very difficult to do internally. I’m hoping the answers to a few questions might help clarify things.

I understand EWI will only be fully effective on a cavity wall if the cavity is sealed/not full of holes so that there’s no great big cold draughts whistling through the cavity around the mineral wool. Now I assume they sealed the cavity when they did the CWI otherwise the loft would’ve been full of wool but is there a way I can check this? I would imagine there’s no way of telling if there are holes elsewhere though.

How would it work transitioning from your wall to your neighbour’s once you’ve fitted EWI given the differing depth of material? Can you taper it down?
How do you manage the condensation risk- I’m trying to get my head around dew point calculations!

We aren’t planning on replacing the DG in the near future- will that change anything apart from having deeper reveals and extending the sills?
Many thanks in advance]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16086 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16086 Fri, 05 Apr 2019 15:39:00 +0100 Artiglio Pulling up the floor and redoing it, removing the tanking are neither economical or practical.
Its been suggested a french drain along the wall will at least prevent the wall getting any wetter and repointing with lime will help the wall dry out a little over time.

Plan is for a 600mm wide trench along the wall to 100mm below the concrete floor level, a studded dpm against the wall , a geotextile in the trench then backfilled , suggestion is to use cockle shells ( available locally) as this will give plenty of air space and quick drainage.

The wall will then be repointed in lime.

The homeowner understands that this will not make any immediate improvement , but that it should prevent further water being sucked into the wall and over time allow the wall to dry out a bit.

Is this a sensible way forward? Being a diy project its not overly expensive . Any suggestions to improve or new ideas?

TIA]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17812 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17812 Sun, 16 Apr 2023 10:55:45 +0100 cc64 Regular visitors here may have noted my travails to fix a failure of screen inside my entrance door, which broke over the fulcrum provided by an embedded mains gas pipe lying direct on the blocks of the beam & block ground floor.

While cutting some XPS to reinstate some insulation I (suddenly, belatedly) realised I'd come across no DPM anywhere within this floor assembly. I was under the impression BC would insist on a DPM being in place. Am I mistaken?

It doesn't seem to be a problem. The ground floor has been a (cheap) engineered wood for ages and no sign of damp has been seen]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17809 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17809 Sat, 08 Apr 2023 11:53:48 +0100 tychwarel I have just found out that the G98 registration was not done and the installer is no longer trading.
I have found the partially filled in forms, however since the installation WPD our local network provider have become part of National Grid.
I cannot find how to do a G98 registration on their new website.
Any advice on how to proceed would be appreciated.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17806 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17806 Wed, 05 Apr 2023 09:46:52 +0100 LittleRadRidingHood
We bought our house (84m2, three bedroom, mid-terrace, 1950s build in Norwich) about two years ago, but have been experiencing damp problems ever since on cold days, with windows dripping with condensation in the mornings and mold starting up in cold corners of the walls and around windows.

The only ventilation seems to be one air brick each in the kitchen, the toilet and 2/3 bedrooms, but not in the bathroom. We have one dehumidifier unit, but it struggles to keep up and is too noisy to run at night.

To sort out these damp problems, improve our air quality and improve the energy efficiency of the house, I would really like to put in some kind of heat recovery ventilation.

Other options (extractor fans, PIV or PIV with heating) all seem like they run against every advice for energy efficiency, by swapping warm air from inside against cold air from outside (or even heating air with a resistance heater). Energy-wise none of those seem like a huge improvement compared to shock ventilating by opening all the windows briefly, which is what we currently do.

When I look for heat recovery ventilation online, I find lots of information on ducted, centralised MVHR and some on single-room/paired/decentralised MVHR, but weirdly, none of the companies I can find around Norwich do decentralised systems. I don't really understand this, as putting in and wiring a few of those seems so much easier and less costly than ripping through lots of walls and ceilings to fit all the ducts for a centralised system, all of which then need additional work to cover them up. I can find plenty of websites selling all sorts of single-room MVHR units, but no companies that seem to specialise in putting them in!? I don't have the skills or knowledge of building codes to design and install a proper ventilation system, so I would really like to find a company that can do it.

Hence my questions are:

- am I missing something about single-room/decentralised MVHR that makes it not the obviously better option for a retrofit compared to centralised MVHR?
- are there any better options we should consider?
- can anyone recommend companies that could design and install a suitable system?
- Given the size of the house, can we get away with just putting fairly powerful single-room MVHRs into the kitchen and bathroom (or, say, a single-room one in the kitchen and paired units in the bathroom and toilet, which are on opposite sides of the top floor) or do we need one in each room - I have seen differing advice on that?

For background information: We are generally happy with the fabric of the building. It has had cavity wall insulation and double-glazing put in at some point, but the seller could not tell us when (he was handling the sale for his mother who was moving to a care home, and she could not remember). Anyway, the house seems pretty tight - none of the windows or doors have drafts, but I don't have an air permeability measurement. There was a gas fireplace which we removed and blocked up, following the gas engineer's recommendation. We are keeping the heating very low to save money and GHGs, so room temperatures fluctuate between 15 and 17.5C in winter. I would imagine the previous owners used to have the heating on much higher, so probably had less damp because of that.

Thanks for all your help! :bigsmile:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17807 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17807 Wed, 05 Apr 2023 15:46:41 +0100 Davey P Following on from my window suppliers thread I am a little further along the road of sourcing windows having visited a few supplier/manufacturers.

I am now at the stage of having whittled the choice down to a couple of options:

Option 1 - Alu clad passive spec single sash top hung outward opening window employing Spilka's Opus hinge.
This option looks good. In theory the opus hinge is designed specifically for alu clad windows and is concealed allowing for an un broken aluminium profile. The manufacturers have said the hinge will take the weight of the single sash units (1600 x 1400) of around 70kg's (in my enquiry letter with dimensions I stated I ideally wanted single sash providing the weight was within hardware limitations) they are however a trade supplier and I'm a little concerned if the hinge failed over time it's a case of "tough luck!" I should state that 3 other manufacturers were happy to supply single sash units including a domestic supply and install provider.

Option 2 Same spec window as above but using Spilka's classic hinge and with 2 equal sash's.
This supplier was concerned enough by the sash weight that they wouldn't supply single sash. Also when the classic hinge is employed, the cladding is effectively 4 pieces clipped to the frame and there is an opening in the vertical cladding through which the hinge protrudes. No issue for a timber window but my concern is the ingress of insects and air born contamination which will over time create the potential for decay ie a build up of muck in what is a hidden void.

Unfortunately, we visited option which uses the opus hinge first and had nothing to compare the window too however on visiting other suppliers using the classic hinge, the sash felt much lighter to open and turn.
In reality, I'm not sure if this is really much of an issue as we have managed without having to fully reverse windows to clean them (easy enough from outside) and we will probably only ever crack them for ventilation.
I've contacted spilka to query both design loads (max 80 kg's) and whether this takes into account wind load (if so then our 70 - 75kg sash's should be ok probably not if it doesn't) and whether the opus and classic hinges have different leverage ratio's whether that would account for the difference in perceived weight. They haven't come back to me.

Also, I was under the impression that outward opening doors and windows were a more weather tight option as they get pushed against the seals in harsh weather but further investigation has revealed a number of high end manufacturers using inward opening systems with more seals eg internorm. Internorm are out due to to cost but I wondered if one system had meaningful advantages over the other???

Any input or thoughts on the above would be greatly appreciated as it's frying my little brain!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15130 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15130 Wed, 14 Jun 2017 08:17:01 +0100 Silky
apparently the cladding went up like a match stick.. I wonder what type of insulation was under there, if it was Polystyrene then surely this is a major FU!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17783 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17783 Fri, 17 Mar 2023 22:19:01 +0000 bgasparotto
As we progress throughout our rooms, we are now planning the bathroom of our Victorian/Edwardian house with solid brick walls.

After removing fittings, tiles and some paint, we uncovered what seems to be gypsum plaster and a bit of cement render, which is cracking and all patchy so we are planning to remove it and start again from the bare brick. This external wall (please see the picture) is where the insulation and bathtub + shower would be going and the window size reduced to half of what it is now.

We are aware that these types of houses need to breath so as we insulate the internal walls (EWI not an option), we will be using wood fibre boards throughout the rest of the house. But does that also apply for bathrooms (wet rooms)? If so, what would be an adequate tiling option on top of the insulation? We wonder if bathroom walls still need to be breath or whether we should make it water tight and rely on ventilation for the exchange of moisture.

We are quite new on retrofitting so we still don't understand whether we draw the line on breathability on kitchens/bathrooms or the same approach (IWI with wood-fibre + lime plaster) should be religiously applied on the entire house.

Any advices are welcome! We wish you all a lovely weekend :))]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17803 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17803 Fri, 31 Mar 2023 12:35:17 +0100 fostertom Seems like a no-brainer - interesting that it has to be tested and OK'd - and that half of it still has to be 'new'.
"Recycled concrete has been produced before in other places, but testing is required in each region because of local differences in how the concrete is made"
"the protocol they had established could be used in other countries rebuilding from war and other disasters"]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17732 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17732 Mon, 06 Feb 2023 21:50:42 +0000 number_thirty_three
A bit more info: On one side, they are adjacent to a converted dormer, so are in effect sat on 'internal' walls. The other side has no dormer and they are therefore sat on a section of that party wall which faces the outside air. We will be (under)hanging the loft floor joists from these two beams.

There is also a steel 'goal post' that is propping up the bricks of the chimney above the roofline. It is an absolutely absurd quantity of steel for the purpose, but it is there - and again there are bricks sat directly onto that goal post. That's against the wall, where I had already determined I would need to insulate a bit - so I expect that will mitigate some (most?) of that cold bridge. But perhaps there's some condensation risk I should consider...

For context: Right back at the start of our retrofit journey, before we moved in, we had the chimneys removed, and our SE suggested we install the steels for the loft conversion given that we had to do steels for the chimney removal anyway. I now understand that we could perhaps have avoided steels completely (I met someone subsequently who has used Glulam) or at least used a thermal break material like foamglas.

Be grateful for any suggestions on this.

Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17796 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17796 Sun, 26 Mar 2023 23:01:59 +0100 zak99
We need to replace our broken concrete driveway and also provide a separate hardstanding for parking/working on a vehicle etc

Other than the usual concrete, block paving, slabs, gravel are there any other lowish impact surfaces I may not be aware of please?

Permaculture garden designer suggested gravel and sleepers for the drive or gravel with random planting in the gravel but she is hard to nail down on the details. Like will a wheelie bin or wheel barrow pull through the gravel or how do I do low nutrient random planting with type 1 sub base or will the sleepers be slippery in winter. My wife would like to break up the gravel expanse with some sparse slabs but designer feels gravel will always end up on top of slabs.

For the hard standing beside the garage I may possibly be able to reuse some old slabs but wondered if there are other lowish impact materials for a new surface?

Whats your experience please?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17797 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17797 Tue, 28 Mar 2023 00:17:39 +0100 mitchino
It all sounds great, we'd love to wean ourselves off kerosene, but have so far baulked at the cost and limitations of heat pumps etc, but how great is HVO? Greenwash or Hogwash, the future or a dead duck? Pros and Cons please!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16375 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16375 Sun, 29 Dec 2019 14:05:58 +0000 malakoffee
The existing double glazing was fitted in 2002 approx. The closest room is used as a bedroom. the furthest room is a guest bedroom = storage.

Current challenges :-
These bay windows are badly affected by condensation during the winter. Fully closing the blinds and curtains makes it worse.
During the summer I have to keep the blinds and curtains closed to minimise the solar gain. ( Up until around
midday in mid-summer ).
I used to like the open feel of this huge bay window, however since the new neighbours have arrived, with their "more active" lifestyle I would be quite happy to close down the panoramic aspect.

Possible responses :-
- Do nothing : sell up and move on
OR
- Replace the existing window units with triple-glazed units
OR
- Replan the glazed areas and infill the rest with highly insulated walls. ? How to estimate an acceptable amount of light i.e. How big/small the new windows ?

Additional :-
Either side of the bay windows the corners are cold corners. The internal wall surfaces are prone to ( mild ) mould growth.

Any thoughts or guidance would be appreciated.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17793 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17793 Thu, 23 Mar 2023 17:33:15 +0000 cc64
Further to the cavity-crossing work, I removed more floor covering, uncovering cracked screed as I progressed, stopping only when the cracks did. This identified the pipe for the house gas supply as a nucleation point for screed failure.

This is a 27mm diam pipe, crossing the entrance hall, and resting directly on the blocks of the beam and block floor. It serves a boiler and gas hob. The pipe was flanked by 25mm EPS, and also overtopped by the same, before the screed was poured/laid. The overtopping was not a good idea, reducing the (otherwise 40mm thick) screed to 18mm, and making of the pipe a fulcrum for the 500mm lever of screed to the front door - hardy surprising the screed failed over the pipe.

Question is re;fixing this and what particular regs apply to such gas source pipes? It is sleeved through the wall. With generous ventilation gaps both within the sleeve and outside it; any reason not to reach for my Soudal AWS airtight foam to fill those gaps?

The flanking EPS stops 20mm short of each side of the pipe and that gap filled with very fine granular materials. This looks slightly more structured than the usual lackadaisical construction quality I'm dealing with in this house. Is this detail regs related?

Likewise the overtopping with EPS - this is a shockingly bad idea in terms of its impact on screed longevity - but was it done as per some aspect of regs e.g. perhaps the pipe ought not to be encased in screed directly?

Can anyone here point me in the right direction on these details? Is the filled flanking gap between pipe and EPS required? And the overtopping EPS? Or am I ok directly to embed that gas pipe in the new screed without any such flanking gaps or overtopping EPS?

I can imagine the pipe (steel) will be subject to thermal expansion/contraction - which wouldn't do much good to any screed bonded to it; is preventing that bond the objective for the flanking loose fill gaps and the EPS overtop?

Thanks. And happy to hear any other tips from those practiced in the art which will almost certainly come as news to me.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17788 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17788 Mon, 20 Mar 2023 18:34:29 +0000 Devlin
I should be having some new double glazed uPVC windows installed in about 1.5 months. I know if left to their own devices the installers will do the bear minimum - ACME expanding foam round the edges and finish with a trim. I want a better job done so been looking at alternatives. One of them is this expanding foam which is a little pricey:

https://www.partel.co.uk/product/conpreseal-3v-bg1/

Alternatively this expanding foam doesn’t look too bad:

http://www.soudalairtight.com/INT/raam_schuim.html

Has anyone used any of these products or similar? Is it worth spending the £130 on the expanding foam tape when this expanding foam will do?

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17789 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17789 Mon, 20 Mar 2023 22:49:15 +0000 CJT http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17739 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17739 Sat, 11 Feb 2023 12:38:16 +0000 Phil & Colette
I find timber sizes very frustrating as 50 x 50 mm square is "nominal" and actually 47x47 or even 45x45 depending on the finish and processing

So..

If a 50mm service void is specified is that a true 50mm or a nominal 50 mm made by using "50mm" battens? Or is something thicker cut down to that size.

Void will be in ceiling with electrics and slimline downlighters.

Thanks

Phil]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17773 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17773 Thu, 09 Mar 2023 13:20:02 +0000 greenfinger
I've got some work to do to a ceiling (and the insulation above), which I might have more specific questions about later. For now, I've been left a bit confused as to when - more generally - a VCL is or isn't needed, and the potential problems with not having one.

Would I be right in saying that the majority of houses don't have a VCL? Victorian terraces, 1950s/60s bungalows. LA and ex-La houses, etc. etc. - do they have VCLs?

If they don't, then I'm guessing that's why it's so important that roof spaces are adequately ventilated. But by that reckoning, if an adequately ventilated roof is capable of dealing with problems from household moisture, and resulting condensation, why when I read info about doing work to ceilings and roofs (including loft conversions) are VCLs almost always recommended?

Taking that premise a step further - if an adequately ventilated loft can deal with household moisture without a VCL, then could adding a VCL be detrimental by trapping more moisture into the habitable parts of the house rather than letting it escape to the roof space where it can be dealt with?

Which brings me nicely onto my last confudlement. We live in an old solid wall house (albeit with more modern extensions), and so have been learning about the need for letting the walls breath by using lime, etc. Is the same not true of ceilings and roofs? Are there merits to having breathable ceilings/insulation/roof space in old houses? If so, what further confuses me is that while I can see the need for different approaches to different types of wall (modern materials with a cavity VS stone walls without a cavity = different approaches needed) are there any major differences between old and new roofs? Putting thatched roofs and the like aside, are old and new both principally the same insomuch as they have a hard roof covering and timber supports?

It's all left me scratching my head, so I wondered if anyone could help explain please?

Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17768 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17768 Tue, 07 Mar 2023 08:44:51 +0000 betamaxbandit I'm trying to decide on the best windows and best installer to use for my property.
I couldn't find an exhaustive list on this forum for window manufacturers and installers.
I live in Bristol, South West England.
I'm considering getting the highest performance windows I can, so maybe these will be triple glazed.
Considering aluminium frames with timber inside.
Buying decision is guided by the quality of the window, but also the reputation of the installer. My goal is to have a high airtightness level and so it seems a taped install would be best.

The property is a 1930' semi with bay window to replace tired ~25 year old upvc double glazed. The walls have ~90mm EPS external wall insulation installed.

To get the ball rolling, I've just been watching a video[1] about Schüco windows. Do they have a good reputation in the UK? One of their windows [2] has a Uf value = 0.71 W/(m2K); is this good?

Cheers Betamax

[1]: "Window Installation Pt. 1" Build Show Build: Boston Ep. 8
Matt Risinger, Build Show
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcoMihs6hHQ

[2] Schüco AWS 90.SI+
https://www.schueco.com/uk/homeowners/windows/aluminium-windows]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17790 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17790 Tue, 21 Mar 2023 09:01:16 +0000 revor
https://bsee.co.uk/pump-industry-urges-government-clampdown-on-non-compliant-central-heating-pumps/

Rather worrying this is happening and unnoticed and reminiscent of the fake electrical cable scandal of a few years ago. These sort of imports just undermines our own manufacturers. To put on a CE marking to indicate the product meets European conformity when it actually means China Export is taking the proverbial.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17777 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17777 Tue, 14 Mar 2023 11:06:36 +0000 fostertom https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-64939558
https://datacentrereview.com/2023/03/start-up-uses-data-centre-to-heat-public-swimming-pool/ and of course
https://www.theguardian.com/business/2023/mar/14/innovative-heat-tech-save-england-swimming-pools-from-closure

Heating a pool must be the ideal 'target' because the reqd water flow temp is so low; "Pools are just the start and around 30% of all industrial and commercial heat needs could be provided by this technology." sounds a bit un-thermodynamic!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17785 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17785 Sat, 18 Mar 2023 16:46:52 +0000 djh
The radiant heater is a Steibel-Eltron IW180, which looks the same as an IW120 but has three 600 W bars. SWMBO has decided that it might be nicer to have some kind of panel heater or radiator instead of it, in approximately the same place. I'm happy to go along with this (SMBO), so I'm looking for any suggestions as to which heater to pick. I don't know much about the subject. I'd like wall-mounting, or wall stabilised anyway. Radiant panel or convector? Desirably no fan or other noise. Any form of built-in storage worthwhile? Any thoughts about reliability of particular models or brands? Dust traps? Appearance? Oh and if it has any smarts, then are they accessible to third-party control systems such as Home Assistant or IFTTT etc?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17786 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17786 Sun, 19 Mar 2023 13:09:51 +0000 Rex
Do I assume the 'Whisper your comments to' option is a direct contact that is not publicly readable?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17690 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17690 Sat, 07 Jan 2023 13:22:21 +0000 Rex
Chatting with a friend who is upgrading his house and having installed a Mixergy thermal store tank, is most impressed with it.

Out of interest, I have been searching the internet and do not understand all the hoola. It says that only the hot water needed is heated which I assume means that only the top of the tank is hot. What happens if one wants a bath? Does the hot water run out?

I assume the Mixergy runs via a heat exchanger but I as a point of interest, I cannot find any mention of one.

When I was building, I did investigate a thermal store but for various reasons, did not install one. I was taken with the European models that had around 100mm of insulation. The Mixergy has the standard UK insulation of around 50-60mm; is that really sufficient to reduce heat loss?

Don't know what I a missing but what benefits does app control and an Ethernet connection offer? Frankly, the last thing I want in my life is a hot water tank that is controlled from my phone, but mine not to reason why.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17781 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17781 Thu, 16 Mar 2023 12:45:51 +0000 greenfinger
Back again with another insulation question. I've came across a couple of examples of people pushing PIR further into the void between rafters (but not so far as to impede the airgap behind for ventilation) rather than flush with the rafter face. Looking into it, I found this was done on purpose to create a gap between those between rafter pieces of insulation and the perpendicular insulation installed beneath to the underside of the rafters. These airgaps apparently create reflective radiation and increase the effectiveness.

Just wondered what people think of this principle and whether it is right or not?

And if the idea does have merit, what would the minimum amount of air gap needed be to have any worthwhile effect? Would 5mm/10mm do anything?

Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17776 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17776 Mon, 13 Mar 2023 22:18:52 +0000 Victorianeco
Not very thermally efficient and as there's 4 of us in a 35m2 area we're noticing the effects of mould/condensation.

It's too cold to open windows and we rely on a air to air heat pump for heating.

The room drops to 12c overnight which is when I think the condensation forms...

Humidity levels are fine in the day at 20c (50% RH).

I need to get some fresh air into the room or a dehumidifier. There is a small bathroom within the area that has an old 'on with light' fan. Would a single room MVHR unit work in the existing hole?

Ideally we want the fresh air in the room/office

The room isn't particularly airtight or insulated so just weighing up options.

As the employer I know I have a duty of care to my team but surely the landlord does too?

Thoughts on the best solution?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17764 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17764 Thu, 02 Mar 2023 09:05:24 +0000 jhsigma