Tue, 19 Dec 2023 06:32:14 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13552 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13552 Tue, 28 Jul 2015 19:19:44 +0100 mikrt
Over the winter I "sensed" that some rooms seemed colder that others, even though UFH room stats all showed the same temperature. The insulation used was celotex @ 120mm with 50mm air-gap (inside 2 layers 4" blocks).

We didn't have carpets down then, and convinced myself it would be different when they were down. I bought a seek thermal camera and it didn't show up any difference either.

Then I had an Eureka moment and checked through the photo's I'd taken through the build and couldn't believe I'd missed it. Along with the architect, builder & building control.

Some internal double skin structural walls are only insulated on one side (not easy to understand I know - see attachment), so my study and utility room downstairs, and bathroom upstairs have missed out.

My question is, should they be? And if so, should I get it done retrospectively or am I worrying about nothing?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14143 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14143 Thu, 24 Mar 2016 17:04:47 +0000 goingpassive
I have visited a house (retro-passive) that has MVHR in 2 zones with post-heaters where there is no contribution to warmth other than the appliances/bathrooms/occupants. Demonstrably that house does what is required, with the option of an electric oil-filled radiator in case of need for a bit of local boost if needed.

I have been told categorically that the problem is not warmth but keeping the house cool in warm weather.

My proposal is a 245m2 4-bed house on 2 floors; timber frame; fabulous insulation and thermal bridging figures, etc. using a MVHR unit to be designed and installed by the timber frame manufacturer, who will also install the windows and doors, validate the thermal performance and calibrate the system before leaving site. I have assurances that the house will pass PHPP with flying colours.

I have a provisional SAP calc. that uses an air permeability design value of 4.0 – despite my insistence that it is going to be under 0.5 – (They say it doesn’t make a significant difference to the result).

The annual space heating fuel requirement comes out at 2639 kWh, with the highest month being January at 511 kWh. The assumed number of occupants is 3.06 – which is likely to be higher than actual for most of the time.

What if the desirable ambient temperature is higher than 21 degrees used for the SAP calc? Could a higher ambient temperature of say, 23 degrees be maintained? Can anyone say with conviction that any house that is good enough to pass PHPP could sustain 23 degrees C without any additional (central) heating?

It would be very nice to save the cost of UFH and associated heat pump if it is going to be superfluous. The converse of regretting not having made adequate provision is unthinkable. Might a couple of post heaters in the MVHR provide enough boost when needed?

There will be a log burner – Chesney “Milan 4 Passive” with a concentric triple wall flue designed for passive houses – but that was always going to be for secondary use and not intended to be lit very often.

TIA]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14040 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14040 Tue, 09 Feb 2016 07:49:01 +0000 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14130 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14130 Wed, 16 Mar 2016 14:21:08 +0000 Carol hunter
We've tried floor and wall tiles with lime and nothing else as we have lime plastered walls on straw and wish to avoid plastics and other nasties in the process. However, it's not going so well as the lime is de-laminating in some areas and going black through contact with soapy water in others.

Has anyone tried to do without proprietary tile gunk? Any answers please?

Thanks, Carol]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14124 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14124 Mon, 14 Mar 2016 15:50:27 +0000 pdholt I am currently completing my final year dissertation at university and require participants to take part in my primary data research questionnaire.

If you are a self-builder who has installed, is currently living with an MVHR system and are happy to complete a questionnaire as part of my research, please let me know and I will send you the relevant documentation.

Many thanks in advance.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14091 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14091 Wed, 02 Mar 2016 11:02:14 +0000 Studio_Bark
We are currently designing an off-grid dwelling. The system we are proposing:

1) PV array to provide 3.2kW per annum
2) 5kW Biofuel Generator to run alongside
3) 35kWh High capacity Battery storage
4) Heat Recovery system harnessing heat from the generator and house

We have considered alternative CHP systems however the majority of domestic solutions are gas powered which we are currently not considering an option.

The benefit of this system is that during the summer the PV array can supply the majority of the required electricity. Heating load will be lower, allowing the heat recovery system plus intermittent use of the bio-fuel generator to provide enough hot water.

During the winter when the solar panels are less efficient and heating load is higher the generator will supply the electricity and heating required.

Although we have undertaken our own research to get to this stage we would like to hear from others about their experience using systems such as this. The last thread I have seen on this forum dates back to 2011, are there any:
- new recommended suppliers?
- technological breakthroughs?
- recommended off-grid specialists who may be interested in assisting?

Thanks in advance for the advice.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10418 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10418 Fri, 29 Mar 2013 20:02:52 +0000 Pugliese
Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14080 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14080 Thu, 25 Feb 2016 09:30:09 +0000 SeerGreenSIPS
We're just in the design stages of our SIPS build. We want to achieve a flush threshold from the kitchen out on to the patio. However, apparently Kingspan warranties are such that they require any structural timber to be 150mm above ground level.

Would welcome any thoughts/suggestions on how to stick within the warranty - but also achieve a flush access inside to out?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14046 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14046 Wed, 10 Feb 2016 23:01:56 +0000 tony http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14057 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14057 Tue, 16 Feb 2016 09:33:30 +0000 neilgorswift
thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14048 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14048 Thu, 11 Feb 2016 14:55:59 +0000 gustyturbine
I am staring to look at the possibility of building on a field that I own. The field itself is 2.75 acres and there are buildings either side of it. It is in my local small town on the west coast of Wales.
Anyway, I would like to build if possible and have been looking at different systems.
I am very tempted to have a look at starw bale construction as they seem fairly cheap if you labour yourself and very well insulated.
I just wonder what the main issues are as they are very rare in the UK and how do planners view applications generally. From what I can find thet seem to turn most applications down.
I have also looked quickly at Modcell in Bristol and you can actually get a mortgage against their bale system now.
Please give your thoughts as this may be a terrible idea to some but great idea to others.
Thanks in advance.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14043 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14043 Wed, 10 Feb 2016 12:00:45 +0000 Carol hunter
We have a pain in the form of two outstanding planning conditions. Just to put in context, in 2005 we received pp with two other people for 9 "Eco houses" - We are self builders, not developers and have built a small straw and round pole timber house. We have had to provide infrastructure to the plots in the form of a driveway , basically crushed concrete and limestone chip pings. We're happy with this and fits with SUDs….

However, for the first 5 meters into our unadopted cul-de-sac, Highways are stipulating must be tarmac which puts paid to our permeable covering ambitions and will send water shooting down the quite steep hill quite apart from our wish not to pave paradise with yet more high embodied energy, oil based tarmac….

Is anyone familiar with this? Highways say the material has to be something they can up-keep cheaply/easily and tarmac is the man.

The other aspect of the pain is even worse for us, our grass verge on the roadised of a very old flint wall will apparently be a greater asset if it's tarmaked over to make a pavement. This is in the middle of nowhere, doesn't connect on either side with anything, has never been used as a pavement and is lovely as a grassed verge with overhanging trees. In addition there is a large pole with a mirror atop which has bee placed there by a grain store in order to see better on a blind corner; this is right in the middle of the narrow verge at one end…

PLEASE, can anyone point us to something that will support our case? They seem unmoved by SUDS requirements (we're a rural village…) Also, any ideas as to alternative road materials which may possibly appease their first 5 meters from the highway requirement? Thank you!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14009 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14009 Thu, 28 Jan 2016 11:13:07 +0000 richardelliot
I know interiors are a little off topic for the forum, but has anyone had any experience of doing something similar?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13983 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13983 Thu, 21 Jan 2016 15:08:49 +0000 Nick Parsons
They write:

'' internal air temp 22 deg C, GF lounge 2 pane slider, cill internal – 14.5 deg at same time as cill external was 10.4 deg C. The vertical in the middle of the window on the inside slider (ie no direct contact with the outside world except for its interlock with its outside mate) was 15.5 deg c midway up ie 1.5m above floor level, this gets warmer the higher one measures it.''

I am sure the (probably) high humidity has something to do with it, but the differential between room temp and window frame surface temp seems quite big.

Anyone got any experience of room/wall temp vs frame temp differentials for modern alu windows?

End of main Q

(Background comparison data):

By comparison, in my living room this afternoon:

Room temp is between 19 and 20, depending on which bit of the room you’re measuring.

Frame temp of timber-framed 3G Green Bldg Store windows: 17.9

Ext temp: 3.4

(All degrees C, of course)

My dining room, for contrast:

Room temp 11.9 (Brrrrrrrrrrr…….)

Frame temp of 30-year-old, definitely not thermal-break-equipped alu patio doors: 7.2

Frame temp of 30-year-old timber windows: 10.2

Ext temp: 3.4

Any thoughts gratefully received.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13996 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13996 Mon, 25 Jan 2016 11:31:43 +0000 djh
I just watched Grand Designs Australia Series 6 Episode 3, which was quite interesting in several ways. It was designed to survive being in a bush fire, used straw bale insulation, sourced its own water from the roof, had hypocaust-like under-slab air circulation, interesting timber flooring etc.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13958 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13958 Tue, 12 Jan 2016 21:37:28 +0000 debbiel I'm building a timber frame house 140mm studwork braced externally by 9mm OSB board, breather membrane, battens and horizontal larch cladding.
I'd welcome advice/opinions on insulation for the external walls.
I'd like to use 140mm sheep wool in the studwork, which I have been told is good in timber frame because of being able to absorb moisture. However, I don't think this is enough to get through Building Regs so I'm considering adding to the inside to improve performance and eliminate thermal bridging, but keep getting different advice.
Here's what I'm considering:
a) 25mm kingspan type rigid insulation - seems to give good performance, but would adding a layer of this detract from the benefits of the sheepswool?
b) 50mm more sheepswool with horizontal cross battens. We like the idea of sticking with sheepswool, but this loses the most space, and still would give an amount of thermal bridging where the battens cross the studwork.
c) Steicotherm rigid boards. Seems to my limited knowledge to complement the properties of the sheepswool, but performance doesn't seem to be as good as Kingspan, so probably have to use 40mm instead of 20mm boards.
Does anyone have any comments to help please?
Also, I was going to do insulation, then polythene vcl, then plasterboard. Someone has suggested using sheepswool in the studwork, then vcl, then steicotherm then plasterboard, so that fixings (sockets etc) are less likely to puncture the vcl. Does that seem sensible? Also to improve the vpl by using a product called Intello, so moisture can be redirected.
Thanks in advance for any help, I seem to be going round in circles with this one!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13913 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13913 Sun, 27 Dec 2015 14:33:16 +0000 tony
I have now had a total of 12k hits on my house videos and 5k on this one

http://youtu.be/SkJ2HnfqLHQ

Who is doing all this boring watching? Have any of you watched any of them?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13779 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13779 Wed, 04 Nov 2015 21:35:53 +0000 Cerisy
There doesn't seem to be any obvious reason, unless it's a result of voltage drop (we are in the countryside!). Just wondered if anyone else had experienced any issues?

Thanks, regards, Jonathan]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13906 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13906 Tue, 22 Dec 2015 20:36:26 +0000 Triassic
I've talked to a number of companies about insulation and keep getting conflicting advice, one design shows the insulation on the outside of the basement walls and another the insulation is inside.

I had envisioned a basement built off a Viking House type insulated raft, with the insulation wrapped around and up the outside walls, linking into the a layer of exterior wall insulation on the outside of the timber frame, thus eliminating any cold bridging problems at the junction of the concrete and the TF.

Thoughts?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13667 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13667 Fri, 18 Sep 2015 10:53:51 +0100 richardelliot
A few more details of the study can be found on the Goldmiths website here:
http://www.gold.ac.uk/news/homepage-news/beyondgranddesignshowdowegetmorepeoplebuildingtheirownhomes.php

Mark Brinkley also mentioned it on his blog yesterdy and suggested the full report would be launched today.

I don't live too far from the exhibition about the study which is being put on in New Cross, London, so hope to pop in tomorrow.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13891 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13891 Tue, 15 Dec 2015 20:08:48 +0000 Doubting_Thomas
Our application for discharge of conditions was just rejected as the application fee was considered incorrect. Apparently the Local Authority regard this as a 'non-householder application', despite the fact it's just for one dwelling.

Digging around on the planning portal produced no detailed guidance but I'm assuming that, as the original application (by the vendor) was to effectively change the number of dwellings, it would have been deemed a non-householder application?

As the new owners, I'm gradually realising that our circumstances seem to have no bearing but wondered if anyone else had made the case for changing the nature of an application? The difference in fees is about triple that for a householder application, so it would be good to know if we're being wrongly charged..!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13880 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13880 Sat, 12 Dec 2015 12:34:46 +0000 Triassic
The wall build up will be :-

11mm plasterboard
35mm service void
Vapour control layer
140mm cellulose insulated studs
11mm OSB sheathing
50mm Celotex or similar
Breathable layer
35mm cavity
Render board and render, or larch cladding.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13837 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13837 Tue, 24 Nov 2015 23:11:30 +0000 tony
I strongly disagree with this advice which would be laughed about in disbelief in Scandanavia and Canada.


What is there to say that the MVHR will be used? What stops moisture migrating into the structure and condensing on the outside of the timber structure?


I reckon this advice will be removed as it leaves the advisers open to litigation.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13773 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13773 Mon, 02 Nov 2015 18:16:19 +0000 Carol hunter The (dead&live) load for the beams is 185kg per m2
The span for the round larch beams is 4meters
Round larch beams between 7" and 9'' diameter.
They look the part but how do we prove it with numbers?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13744 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13744 Fri, 23 Oct 2015 19:46:19 +0100 kentishgreen http://www.protectmembranes.com/protect-tf200-thermo-insulating-breather-membrane/p/8

This stuff looks okay from what their datasheet tells me with thermal values etc etc and thermal Resistance of 0.77 W/m2K.

I'd post a picture of the stuff I've ended up with but it's full on advertising and that's the last thing I want to do (as their services have been shocking). Anyway, it's not multi-layered, has no aluminium reflective layer (like the TF200) and it doesn't take much for the water to start seeping through.

Even the stuff I covered my shed with was of better quality than this 'advertising hoarding'. TF200 certainly seems to be expensive @ over GBP250 for a 50x1.50m roll.

Am I right to feel agrieved?

Thanks,

KG:cry:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13762 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13762 Thu, 29 Oct 2015 10:51:21 +0000 richardelliot
The existing party wall has twelve chimney pots, six to each house, and two to each of the three floors on either side. On my side four fireplaces at first and second floor level had long been covered over and rendered to protect the exposed party wall I'm building up against. Oddly the two at ground floor level had been left open.

The current specification is to block up the chimneys, fill with verticulite to loft level, air brick in the loft and then cowl on the top of the pot.

My builder is suggesting we should break open the blocked up fire places and have them swept before filling with verticulite to check for any issues and have them cleared out etc... Across six chimneys / fire places this is surprisingly expensive.

It has got me thinking whether the verticulite is actually necessary? As the chimneys are in the party wall they will be warm so there is no need to insulate. If we didn't add the verticulite should we do anything different with the venting of the chimneys?

I'd be grateful for the forum's thoughts.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13783 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13783 Fri, 06 Nov 2015 18:21:54 +0000 dsewell
We are in the process of designing a New Build, hopefully to PassivHaus standards. We have a design which satisfies PHPP using insulated render (approx 260mm EPS externally with a 215 structural block).

We would like to look at incorporate brick slips but we are struggling to find a suitable system (we would like to use non-synthetic bricks to give a more authentic look). Again, the buildup of the wall would be 215 blocks, 250 - 280 EPS/XPS (or a natural equivalent) then slips externally.

Does anybody have any experience of building with slips and significant levels of insulation? Any views on EPS vs XPS, the need for a cavity, method for fixing slips to wall (ideally a grid / purpose panel) and solution for fixing the panel to the inner wall (obviously thermal bridge free if possible)?

I'm sure we are not the first to look into this, so any thoughts / guidance greatly appreciated.

Best

Dean]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13769 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13769 Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:52:53 +0000 Nick Parsons http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13175 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13175 Wed, 04 Mar 2015 22:22:38 +0000 richardelliot
The house is in a conservation area the borough of Lewisham in SE London. We're re-instating half of a semi-detached house that was bombed during the war. The facade is going to be a replica of the original, but it is a bit more modern round the side and back. The location / orientation of the house is fixed which has produced some limitations in what we can do (e.g. south facing windows for solar gain are limited).

The house isn't as ambitious in terms of being 'green' as many on this forum, but with rain water harvesting, 3G windows, MVHR, insulation above building regs and some PV (if planning allow) I hope that it will be significantly better then a house done by the volume builders.

Here is the link to the planning application on the council website:
http://planning.lewisham.gov.uk/online-applications/applicationDetails.do?activeTab=summary&keyVal=_LEWIS_DCAPR_73048

This post is of course prelude to me asking more questions. The first of which is quite likely in the next couple of days.

If you have any questions or comments about the house let me know.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13750 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13750 Mon, 26 Oct 2015 00:08:46 +0000 tony
While surveying the ground floor of a beam and block home I noticed some dark staining to the edge of a light coloured carpet (I had seen this before upstairs with wood floors before) this dark staining is not due to poor hoovering but due to wind blowing through the edge of the carpet, leaving some dirty duet staining behind.

For a while I couldn't understand how there could be a draught but the sole plates of the internal walls had been fixed before screeding and in order to save time grouting seemed to have been left to the screeders, not a bad idea except may be they wetted everything and didn't really do the grouting.

Then disastrously and predictably the plate shrank back a little as it dried out, 1/8" each side, just enough to leave a nasty draught in every home built this way, which of the big boys cuts corners like this.

In the kitchen there were draughts coming in under the skirtings, visible on thermal imaging!

Pictures to follow.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13751 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13751 Mon, 26 Oct 2015 00:09:14 +0000 tony
While surveying the ground floor of a beam and block home I noticed some dark staining to the edge of a light coloured carpet (I had seen this before upstairs with wood floors before) this dark staining is not due to poor hoovering but due to wind blowing through the edge of the carpet, leaving some dirty duet staining behind.

For a while I couldn't understand how there could be a draught but the sole plates of the internal walls had been fixed before screeding and in order to save time grouting seemed to have been left to the screeders, not a bad idea except may be they wetted everything and didn't really do the grouting.

Then disastrously and predictably the plate shrank back a little as it dried out, 1/8" each side, just enough to leave a nasty draught in every home built this way, which of the big boys cuts corners like this.

In the kitchen there were draughts coming in under the skirtings, visible on thermal imaging!

Pictures to follow.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12974 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12974 Fri, 09 Jan 2015 08:14:36 +0000 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13728 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13728 Mon, 19 Oct 2015 15:54:27 +0100 richardelliot
There are twelve chimney pots on the roof, six for each house. The new house that we are building will effectively enclose the chimney on our side and we are planning to fill the chinmeys with verticulite up to loft level and then ventilate above there.

The flaunching on the chimney pots has totally gone and I'm surprised they haven't already fallen off. While they are all being re-set the builder has asked whether we'd like regular (£50 a pop) or spinning cowls (£200 a pop) added to the pots.

Two questions I'm hoping the forum can help me with:
1. Do we need cowls (e.g. do building regs say I have to if I touch a chimney or is it just a good idea)?
2. Assuming yes, do we need a regular or spinning cowl?

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8811 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8811 Sat, 17 Mar 2012 08:21:49 +0000 Pugliese
For insulation in the floor they have specified a Celotex system with Marmox blocks in the interior masonry to stop the cold bridging. I said i would give it some thought but in the back of my mind I felt that there had to be a smarter solution. After some research, I found this Tetris system, www.cellecta.co.uk/cellecta-brands/tetris-structural-floor-beam-block-flooring-systm/ that looks far easier to lay, you can walk on it and attach the UF heating direct before screeding.

Has anyone had experience of Tetris or maybe can suggest a better alternative?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=5831 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=5831 Wed, 19 May 2010 21:39:08 +0100 evan
I'd like it to look reasonably nice, be cheap to build, and relatively green. I'd also like some measure of insulation and air tightness to make it reasonable to work in.

Has anyone done something like this and how did you do it?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13698 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13698 Mon, 05 Oct 2015 16:41:27 +0100 joe90 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=5371 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=5371 Thu, 18 Feb 2010 20:53:16 +0000 david Fortunately my energy saving features are not easy to see and I'm definately not going to tell The Valuation Office about them.
Strange how there are grants available to install heat pumps, solar panels ,etc. and then the grant is recovered via Council Tax!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13670 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13670 Sat, 19 Sep 2015 21:01:45 +0100 djh
And there was a certain schadenfreude-ist pleasure in hearing Kevin calling a butterfly roof an inverted roof. :devil:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13633 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13633 Fri, 28 Aug 2015 09:20:05 +0100 Cerisy
It's a relatively small room - 4 sq m heated mat - so not too many tiles to lay, but I just wanted to check the best way to lay the sods! As with our large floor tiles downstairs, I'll back butter the tiles, but as I lay the top layer of adhesive can I use the notched trowel (very carefully of course) to try and get it level or should I go for full bed contact?

I don't have a deadline this time, so I can take my time - so any suggestions, even if they mean doing one tile a day, would be appreciated!

Many thanks, Jonathan]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13627 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13627 Wed, 26 Aug 2015 09:33:59 +0100 malakoffee
However I'm a bit noise sensitive and like to over-engineer, especially when blocking out noise pollution.

The new highly ventilated soffits will permit far more noise into the attic space than previously.
e.g.
Overhead, there recently seem to be far more airliners flying at lower altitude and climbing.
Pidgeons in plague-like numbers - attracted by the crazy (elderly) neighbour's indiscriminate feeding.
. . . the occasional, but very loud yoof parties, in houses surprisingly far away.
etc.

In extremis I could fit 15mm SoundBloc plasterboard on Resilient bars, but that would have to interface with the existing fixed plasterboard anyway.
Is there any point in mixing high spec noise-blocking ceiling components with the adjacent existing conventional ceiling ??
. . . . .
PS. The new window and door frames have the compulsory trickle vents.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13576 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13576 Fri, 07 Aug 2015 17:11:17 +0100 joe90
So my question is how best to do this, has anyone tried this approach on here.

Thanks. John]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13599 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13599 Fri, 14 Aug 2015 16:31:06 +0100 malakoffee
This has just been installed and I have noticed the airgap ( 5 - 10mm continuous ) on both sides between the brickwork and the frame for the full thickness and height of the frame.
Same again between the frame and the lintel.

Thus the weatherproofing is dependent completely on a thin uPVC trim on the outside of the frame. At the edges of the brick the few millimetres of silicone bead is the only seal against the weather.

This seems to make a mockery of both the need to provide a high standard of insulation and weather-proofing.

Is this normal ? Has the fitter done a shoddy job ?

What can I do to improve the situation ?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13598 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13598 Fri, 14 Aug 2015 13:34:08 +0100 richardelliot
The smaller catnic lintels that have been used above the windows are thermally broken, but the 'extreme load lintel' don't appear to have any thermal break.

The face bricks have been built up on the outside wall of the house so we can no longer get to it, and I don't believe they have installed any insulation between the facing bricks / DPC and the face of the lintel. The interior of the lintel is still exposed as per the photo below.

I'm hoping you can give me some thoughts on what to do now. Taking down the facing brick isn't really an option. Can we add some insulation from the inside? Is there a big condensation risk of doing this and the insulation would just get wet? Any thoughts gratefully received.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13575 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13575 Fri, 07 Aug 2015 14:52:51 +0100 richardelliot
When the government announced their intention to abolish the scheme in March 2015 it was left in force for people who were granted planning permission historically (like me). I asked my local planners at the time if they would release me from the condition, but they declined.

I've seen some local authorities appear to show a bit of flexibility e.g.:
https://www.richmond.gov.uk/sustainable_construction_checklist
Where existing conditions relating to Code for Sustainable Homes have not been discharged yet, you can apply to have the existing condition removed, as per section 73 of the Town and Country Planning Act 1990.

Has anyone on the forum had any success in being released from their CFSH condition? I'd love to find some examples I can send to my Local Authority to try and demonstrate their is precedence out there for relaxing the condition on my project.

While it's aims of the scheme might be good, in practice I find it a highly bureaucratic and expensive regulation to comply with. Building a house is hard enough and I'd quite like one less thing to deal with!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13562 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13562 Mon, 03 Aug 2015 12:48:16 +0100 grahamallen My main concern is foundations, a soil survey shows low shrink risk and good load bearing but the two SEs I have approached so far both opt for an overkill fallback of deep trench block & beam, rejecting slab as too costly and complex - ie. "haven't done one of those before".
All I want is an insulated tray with internal load bearing slab, TF walls with internal insulation sitting half on the slab, half on the 300EPS perimeter.
Can anyone recommend an SE who can design a low cost (non system) insulated slab a local ground worker can interpret and execute?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13571 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13571 Wed, 05 Aug 2015 21:30:57 +0100 jmansion
Is there a reason why it can't take a 'normal' plaster, possibly with a binder layer? I would like to increase the internal aerial heat capacity (the build is in Portugal) and a plaster layer or (better) lime or clay would make it easier to justify a low mass wall structure.

Has anyone tried?

I value the racking strength.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13535 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13535 Tue, 21 Jul 2015 17:02:33 +0100 divorcingjack
So, having been bogged down in planning yet again, I've decided to use my time constructively by reading up about cold-bridge free timber frame construction; twin-wall/larsen truss.

So, my question is - our house is currently specified as a SIP construction + 100mm internal rigid insulation and single skin brick cladding. From my understanding, a larsen truss sits on the outside of the structural timber frame and is stuffed full of insulation, preventing thermal bridging through the studs.

So, is there a reason that I can't put that up against a brick skin? All the examples I've seen have been rendered or weatherboarded (in the USA). Our planning is very restrictive and our officer is having kittens at some of the elevations having zinc, the brick is our compromise.

What thickness would the wall have to be to get to around 0.1 u value? We are currently looking at about 325mm excluding the brick skin.

I think I need an idiots guide to timber framing vs SIP. Blockwork is pretty much out as we need a speedy construction method due to access issues.

Thanks,
dj]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13521 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13521 Thu, 16 Jul 2015 11:08:50 +0100 djh
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-33544831

It looks very interesting so I went in search of more detail of how it is constructed and how much it cost. Apart from the usual insulation and solar panels etc it has the somewhat unusual feature of battery storage in a grid-linked house. I didn't find much information; just the place where I think it is supposed to be at some point in the future:

http://www.solcer.org/

But what amazed me were the number of different claims for what had been achieved on all the different sites reporting the story:

Cardiff U: 'the first low-cost energy positive house'
Daily Mail: 'UK's first 'smart' carbon positive house'
ITV: 'Its unique design combines for the first time reduced energy demand, renewable energy supply and energy storage to create an energy positive house.']]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13510 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13510 Sun, 12 Jul 2015 10:32:58 +0100 joe90
I didn't want dormers (tho I think they are pretty and cottagy) because they are more difficult to insulate and make airtight, the last thing I want is chunky cheeks etc. Also I will have to use plastic insulates rather than natural to reduce insulation thicknesses.

So the question is, how best to build well insulated dormers.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13498 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13498 Thu, 09 Jul 2015 17:13:26 +0100 joe90