Tue, 19 Dec 2023 04:08:34 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17640 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17640 Sun, 13 Nov 2022 14:54:25 +0000 bot de paille
Somethingin the range of 6 kWp total for the panels and 9kWh total for the battery storage. Looking for something that can be bought by the client and then installed by an electricien.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17426 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17426 Tue, 22 Mar 2022 14:13:01 +0000 WeeBeastie
I first contacted my supplier who said go to your DNO.
I went to the DNO and they gave me a quote (yikes!).
DNO said supplier must remove the meter before DNO can disconnect.
Back to supplier and now awaiting their reply about removing meter....


I found an old thread on here that said disconnecting from the mains was free - my quote is over 800GBP! I think this involves the DNO digging up the pavement and disconnecting near the mains. Is this what needs to be done?? All I want from 'disconnecting' is no longer using gas and no longer paying the standing charge (final gas appliance gone) - can it not be capped below the floor in the house???]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17625 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17625 Mon, 31 Oct 2022 08:58:33 +0000 fostertom http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15526 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15526 Fri, 26 Jan 2018 08:55:09 +0000 Victorianeco
Need to replace 18no 25w e14 candle bulbs, ideally with led filament style.

I need 2700k, as high CRI as possible and without breaking the bank.

Any thoughts? Slowly working my way round the house

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17630 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17630 Wed, 02 Nov 2022 19:48:00 +0000 Julio
I am looking at a project for a potential EWI job. The walls are 600mm wide, stone. I was wondering what effect the insulation would have on such massive walls, presumably over time the walls would heat up and maintain a steady (nearish 20^c temperature). Or would the huge amount mass of the wall negate the effectiveness of the insulation in some way? My concern is that the walls have so much mass that it would require quite alot of heat to just warm them up and keep them to near temperature.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17584 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17584 Tue, 27 Sep 2022 20:13:49 +0100 chrisinbrighton Thanks.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17631 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17631 Thu, 03 Nov 2022 07:48:06 +0000 Rex

Want to buy some multi-coloured, mains powered string lights to put around a tree for Christmas. Built-in timer (8 on 16 off) essential. Having difficulty finding a 15m length of lights (may be 20m overall) but have found this https://www.robertdyas.co.uk/robert-dyas-mains-operated-led-string-lights-multicoloured.


Is there any reason why I should not cut to 15m LED length and re- attach the 10m from plug to bulb? Obviously, it would need to be waterproof.


Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17615 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17615 Fri, 21 Oct 2022 09:54:10 +0100 bxman
I have suggested our district should do the same and it has been well received however there is a perception that such equipment is still way beyond their budget.

Can any of you recommend suitable equipment that would do the job and give an indication of it's cost .

And if possible any experience of similar schemes that worked or
were there pitfalls that caused them to fail.


Many thanks for reading .

cheers Patrick]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15070 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15070 Wed, 26 Apr 2017 23:05:01 +0100 ComeOnPilgrim http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17623 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17623 Sat, 29 Oct 2022 15:26:11 +0100 WillInAberdeen
It's good that the two 'innovative' companies are combining.

But it seems the industry has consolidated back into a 'big six' of companies (BG, Eon, EDF, Ovo, SP and now Octopus) , and nearly all the new entrants have been wiped out now.

The industry has nearly all consolidated onto the same tariffs set exactly at the OFGEM price cap, and it is difficult to switch as they are not taking new customers.

Given the need for major innovation and change to different kinds of tariffs (ToU,EVs, V2G, VPP, other TLAs), that doesn't seem good to me - what do people think?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17520 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17520 Wed, 20 Jul 2022 12:29:42 +0100 fostertom
https://www.theguardian.com/money/2022/jul/20/green-upgrades-could-cut-uk-energy-bills-by-1800-a-year-finds-study

"Analysis of 5m house sales in England and Wales found that installing an air-source heat pump could increase the value of a home by about £5,000-£8,000, solar panels could increase it by between £1,350 and £5,400 and an electric vehicle charging point could increase it by about £5,000." Presumable additive?

"The Energy Saving Trust estimates that ... electric vehicle charging points [cost] about £1,000" - for £5000 resale boost!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14771 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14771 Mon, 12 Dec 2016 03:39:33 +0000 wookey
The LEDs are all current-driven 350mA units. There are 3 drivers, one for each circuit. The switching is all mains. The drivers are in the loft for future accessibility, with all through-cabling gasketed to preserve airtightness as much as possible. The Luminaires are in a false ceiling below the airtightness membrane.

After much farting about I have all the wiring done and I even got it right - the switches turn on/off the right lights. However, whilst the main room light works fine, both the reading-lights flash on momentarily every few seconds even when 'off'. One with 4-second period, the other 7.

They worked fine when initially tested, and when all three drivers were running off one switch (temporary wiring setup for a couple of weeks until today). But now that the cabling is properly separated and in conduit I have this interesting strobing. What on earth is that about?

The LED/drivers combo for the 1W LEDs are these:
http://www.ledkia.com/uk/buy-led-downlights/1104-adjustable-1w-cob-led-spotlight.html (you have to click the right photo to see the driver - website too fancy for me to give you an actual URL), i.e. 'cheap and nasty' but they work with about 70% efficiency which is good enough given the very low power.

So how does the driver manage to generate some light when its mains input is switched off? And why hasn't it being doing it for the last few weeks? My best guess is that now I have cables properly laid there is some voltage induced from nearby parallel cables and because it's such a low-power driver this is enough for the driver to try and start up? I've not done any measurements yet, because I've spent about 12 hours cabling/wiring this weekend and I'm bored of that. The cables from junction boxes to switch are parallel for about 3m. But those shouldn't have any current in them when all the circuits are off. The incoming mains doesn't run parallel at all, so my theory isn't very convincing to me, but otherwise it makes even less sense. It's also on a short spur so won't be current-carrying unless at least one of the circuits is on.

I suppose I need to disconnect some things and see what it is that makes it stop.

Just thought I'd post in case anyone else had come across this sort of peculiarity before.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17620 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17620 Wed, 26 Oct 2022 21:34:59 +0100 fostertom
Arrayed above clear glass overhead glazing, I can arrange them to intercept direct penetration thro the glazing below into the interior by summer (equinox to June solstice) sun; but to allow winter (Dec solstice to equinox) sun to penetrate.

The fins would be made of Pilks self-cleaning glass, so would themselves shine brightly while illuminated by sun, even while blocking the sun's rays from going further. That way, I hope that they'd strongly illuminate the interior, like a bright overcast sky, the thro clear glass overhead glazing into the interior.

The question is, do the white opaque but translucent fins intercept solar rays by a) reflecting them, or by b) absorbing their heat and re-radiating?
If a), then they would simply bounce the rays thro the glazing into the interior.
if b), they would be somewhat cooled by convection before re-radiating about half (from one of their two surfaces) thro the glazing into the interior.

If shining brightly, to illuminate the interior, is this pro rata with the infra red also being radiated into the interior.

I'd really appreciate some illumination (!) on the physics of this - absorbency, reflectivity etc incl whether either of these can be maximised for the visible spectrum, minimsed for infra red.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17621 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17621 Thu, 27 Oct 2022 10:14:46 +0100 fostertom https://www.theguardian.com/business/2022/oct/27/infrastructure-at-risk-from-climate-crisis-due-to-ministers-extreme-weakness]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17618 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17618 Sun, 23 Oct 2022 16:15:24 +0100 Rex
In the kitchen, we have a number of 2 gang 13a sockets set into the wall. Currently, there is a kettle, radio (AM and FM) and a dimmable led light plugged in.

The kitchen has eight, LED downlights.

If listening to AM and the downlights are on, there is unacceptable interference on the radio; but FM is fine. If the plug-in led on the same circuit is on, neither AM or FM is listenable.

It is obviously something to do with the LED lights

Is there anything I can do? Fit some kind of suppressor into the socket?

Thanks and toodle pip

Rex]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17604 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17604 Thu, 13 Oct 2022 14:23:55 +0100 DWHITE
Is it fine just to blast expanding foam around this and then cut it away level with the cement boards? The gap is 15mm at it's most narrow, 40mm at it's widest point. Nasty draught and cold emanating from the hole. Picture (hopefully) attached.

Bonus question: In the event I fill the void with roughly 300mm of EPS beads. Would this suffice as the insulation layer for a thin retrofit wet UFH system to be laid on top of the block/beam? My thought process being that you could argue the block and beam acts as a useful thermal mass or would the thermal bypass of the block and beam render this ineffective? This is a poorly built 1990's house after all!

Any help is greatly appreciated and will be acted upon!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17617 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17617 Sat, 22 Oct 2022 14:08:13 +0100 georgiegirl
I am struggling to find exactly what I think would be the best solution for us, namely a heat battery that accepts charging from solar PV (with economy 7 back up) and that does both space and water heating. Sunamp seem to only provide DHW, although I have found their UniQ Edual mentioned online, but there is no reference to it on their website.

Or would a thermal store provide everything that I want?

Recommendations for either system gratefully received.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17594 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17594 Thu, 06 Oct 2022 22:06:36 +0100 tony http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17605 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17605 Thu, 13 Oct 2022 18:11:15 +0100 tony http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17440 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17440 Fri, 08 Apr 2022 12:21:16 +0100 Shevek - 14 mm engineered wood click boards (with 3mm pre-finished oak top layer)
- 2-3 mm cork (or rubber cork) underlay for sound insulation
- existing structural floor is beam and block with screed, and we're at first floor level over another apartment

When I discuss the cork underlay at various outlets here (in Portugal) they always recommend laying a vapour impermeable membrane before putting the cork underlay down, even though we're at first floor level.

I presume this is because the concrete can absorb moisture from the air and then it'll want to head for the dry cork and wood?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17595 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17595 Fri, 07 Oct 2022 09:34:21 +0100 Jeff B
I was surprised that despite reducing the depth of insulation by a third the change in U value is only 10% (from 0.20 to 0.22).

I would appreciate any thoughts on whether it is worth spending the extra £'s on 25mm Celotex (and the extra amount of fiddly work required) for such a small change in U value? I suppose the implications of "overinsulating"
the walls with possible attendant condensation issues are also on my mind, especially any adverse effects on the Rockwool loose fibre insulation inside the cavity.

Thanks.
Jeff]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17602 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17602 Wed, 12 Oct 2022 16:26:06 +0100 fostertom http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17116 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17116 Mon, 05 Jul 2021 07:09:34 +0100 dereke
This is going to be on a solid floor.

Timber frame (4x2")
OSB
Looking at 140-200mm of woodfibre/EPS insulation (found a deal on some cheap woodfibre)
Breather membrane
Vertical Battens
Horizontal Cladding

I've done something similar before but with much thinner insulation and I was able to hang the battens from the eaves as well as using some helical fasteners. That is not really going to be possible in this case. I have a pitched roof but a small amount of over hang - also warm roof. And I can't find fasteners long enough to do 200mm of insulation.

Are there any resources out there with detailing for this kind of build up?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17593 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17593 Thu, 06 Oct 2022 21:07:53 +0100 djh
Increased carbon emissions, primary forest destroyed and you and I paying for it.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17600 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17600 Sat, 08 Oct 2022 23:49:00 +0100 greenfinger
I'm going to be having some roof work done. The lead needs replacing and doing properly where a lower roof meets a wall (it slopes down the side of the wall... ASIDE - what's it called where a roof meets a wall like this?).

The chap doing it has proposed to put in long overlapping lengths of lead beneath all the slates (I think around 1.5m lengths each). And then lengths of around 1m flashing on top of the slates.

All the info and videos I can find say to use small soakers that are the same length as the slates, and sit on top one slate/covered by the next.

I'm worried that the way the chap has proposed to do it is wrong, as I can't find anything that recommends doing it like that. In case it changes anything, he is planning to put a bell bead on the wall above the lead.

Sorry if I've not explained that very well... It's be a long day!

Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17589 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17589 Sat, 01 Oct 2022 07:49:26 +0100 BenM
I was just wondering if anyone had installed smart controls, such as Nest, Hove etc. on their thermal store?

We have a Gledhill Thermal Store that does our hot water heating, which has input from a gas boiler, multi fuel stove and solar thermal. It has a pretty basic 2 channel Honeywell controls (similar to this https://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-home-2-channel-digital-programmer/88608?tc=UA3&ds_kid=92700055281954502&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAjwp9qZBhBkEiwAsYFsb9LGMXiJ427neZWbo6vSrOkDjJjm0ZZRnus8ydY9Nya1Qstyj4eK9hoCElIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) which control the boiler and central heating.

Would quite like to switch to a smart control, but nervous about how this will work with the stove and the two stats on the tank (especially the top stat that effectively stops the tank from boiling!).

Any advice or thoughts would be much appreciated.

Regards

Ben]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17599 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17599 Sat, 08 Oct 2022 17:05:30 +0100 TimSmall
The majority is going onto EPS70, but some render carrier boards (ventilated rainscreen above pitched roof), and some onto Rockwool (fire breaks).

A local building firm will be carrying out the work, but will be following my specification. They've not applied EWI before, but are reasonably intelligent, have some skilled traditional render guys, and are happy to take advice, and ask questions if unsure! They have a couple of quotes from two suppliers...

The first one is about 10 miles away. They've not been super-fast at getting back to me, and they do several types of products (EWI, but also other general commercial building facade products), and not super-strong on technical advice. They stock Ceresit (Polish firm owned by Henkel).

The second firm is about 50 miles away. They specialise in EWI, and has been pretty good at getting back to me. They have a lot of technical advice on their website. They stock Kreisel (again Polish, owned by Fixit Gruppe), but with their own (I think) branding on it.

The products are different (particularly the base coats), and although there is quite a bit of variation in individual item pricing, the total prices are within 5% each other. Having said, the Ceresit firm has spec'ed less base coat in total (20 bags vs. 25) - but I'm not too worried about that because the distance means picking up additional bags wouldn't be too troubling.

The Ceresit has just one type of base coat/adhesive "CT80" (rockwool, EWI and also below DPC), whereas the Kreisel quote has 3 (EPS, Rockwool, and below DPC being different products).

I was wondering if anyone had used either (or ideally both!), and had any recommendations, or other thoughts?

Thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14816 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14816 Sun, 08 Jan 2017 14:49:13 +0000 Donkey http://www.passivehousesystems.co.uk/product/blowerproof/]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17597 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17597 Fri, 07 Oct 2022 10:43:43 +0100 mitchino
I am coming to the end of a long contract with SSE for my business electricity. The price is going to quadruple. I get bombarded every day with calls from energy brokers. They annoy me because they always want your phone number and I'd rather do things by email.

Am I best using a broker? Will they always be able to get a better deal even though they get commission?

If a broker is the best option, which one should I use? Anyone got any opinions?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17560 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17560 Fri, 09 Sep 2022 11:46:45 +0100 jon
Reason is that I've run a spreadsheet simulation accounting for atmospheric extinction, panel angle (using spherical trig: not Haversine.. yet), panel efficiency at strike etc. I'm not getting the efficiencies claimed for east-west panels (& some other striking differences).

Is it worth going all out and introducing Haversine or are manufacturers relying on southern European/USA data when giving recommendations? (can't see why going Haversine would make any difference but can see why using Southern European latitudes would make E-W more attractive)

So here's what I'm getting (using data from panel tests so not specifically accounting for glass reflection: possible that the glass protection might have some effect if the panel tests didn't account for it)

South facing: Sweet spot 35 to 44 degrees (used for comparison)
East/west at 35 degrees: 33% reduction full year
East/west at 25 degrees@ 30% reduction full year
Flat: 25% reduction]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16581 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16581 Sun, 31 May 2020 03:00:14 +0100 wookey
I have pretty standard 1960s ventilated roof on cavity wall, with wall plate on inner leaf. The tiles are big (concrete) pantiles, and there is a bituminous felt underneath. The rafters are extended to give an overhang of 200mm.

As bought:
http://wookware.org/house/retrofit/drawings/eaves-before.pdf
After insulation:
http://wookware.org/house/retrofit/drawings/eaves-after.pdf

I took the bottom 3 rows of tiles off to insulate the wallplate/skeilings. The bituminuos underlay was knackered at the bottom edge where it 's been exposed to light, hanging over into the gutter, so I replaced it with a breathable membrane. That explicitly says it shouldn't extend down into the gutter, and you should use a plastic edge tray for the last bit.

The current design has flat tiles at the roof edge, to provide a base for cement to block the gaps at the end of the pantiles. http://wookware.org/pics/house/eaves/tiles1.jpeg

Plastic combs are a more modern and convenient way to deal with the gap under pantiles and seem to work fine. Is there any good reason not to remove the flat tiles, save a lot of time mixing loads of cement to fill them in, and just put a bird comb in instead?

Now whilst looking I discovered that you can buy a 4-in-1 device, which has a membrane support tray at the back, comb on the top, 10mm continuous eaves vent , and edge drip-tray all in one:
https://www.virtualplastics.co.uk/collections/eaves-protectors/products/vented-eaves-protector-support-tray-with-comb-protection-roof-felt-protection

Anyone used these? It seems like a good idea but perhaps I am missing some disadvantage? As you can see There is a tendency to pooling just behind the bargeboard with the current design and a support tray will probably help with that. The comb has the major advantage over cement that you can still remove/replace the tiles easily. At the moment the eaves venting is just by infiltration - there are no vents in the soffit. I carefully left a gap just behind the bargeboard so that holes could be put in (you can see in 'eaves-after' PDF above, but with this vent over the top of the bargeboard I probably don't need any. It's only 10mm so isn't a huge amount of ventilation, but more than before.

The alternative is a separate drip-edge and comb (which screwfix have): https://www.screwfix.com/p/felt-support-tray-1-5m-5-pack/36622]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16949 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16949 Sun, 28 Feb 2021 02:07:51 +0000 wookey
The weather is cool and dry but getting under 5C overnight. for the whole of the next week. The MC55 says the temp should be over 5C for application and curing. So what happens if I put it on when its 10C during the day but maybe 2C or 3C overnight (current weather forecast gives 3, 3,3,5,2,1,1 for next week (daytime 9, 8, 9, 10, 8,7,7).

Presumably so long as it doesn't freeze it'll be OK, but will just cure very slowly (any idea how slowly - it took 2-3 days in Autumn?) I understand that MC55 is a lime-based plaster, although with various other things in it to make it easy to use.

The incentive for not waiting another few weeks is a) it needs doing and have time and the weather/ground is dry and b) the bulbs are coming up in front of this bit of wall so It'd be good to get it done so I don't destroy them all doing it later.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17552 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17552 Sun, 28 Aug 2022 08:36:24 +0100 kristeva
I'll be plumbing the bathroom soon and just wanted to canvass thoughts on the copper v plastic conundrum.

I've got a number options, push fit, copper and push fit joints, compression & copper, or even copper and solder although I'm not greatly experienced and bit nervous waving a blow torch around an old house in tight spaces!

All have there pros and cons, notching is less kind to joists, so many scare stories about plastic fittings (rodent attack / leaks, etc), if I use copper I'll have to get a pipe bender, more unseen joints with push fit.

Cheers


P]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17585 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17585 Wed, 28 Sep 2022 19:25:14 +0100 Jeff B
My question is: is it safe to mount the pattresses inside wooden boxes? I didn't think it would be a problem as I have seen, for example, pattresses mounted on wooden noggins before but my wife just raised the question and put doubts in my mind!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17587 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17587 Fri, 30 Sep 2022 13:34:26 +0100 JT101
About 10 years ago I insulated the two smallest rooms in my house internally which are both solid brick wall.

I used Insulated backed plasterboard with 25mm PIR at the time.

Now I'm considering external wall insulation. Probably will end up using XPS on the outside, but want to look into PIR as an option.

In an ideal world I won't rip off the internal wall insulation and all that would entail. But if I keep it, presumably there is potential problems in the brickwork itself if I insulated externally. XPS breathes, but PIR doesn't, but maybe the render wouldn't breathe anyway.

Or should I just not worry about it? I did a pretty good job of taping and sealing each board, but have of course drilled holes for fixings.

Any thoughts. Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17592 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17592 Sun, 02 Oct 2022 12:31:44 +0100 minisaurus
If I remember correctly it goes like this:

- fill the sub-floor void with EPS beads
- replace the vents with bricks to make air-tight.

Have I remembered correctly, or can someone link to the original discussion?

I'm asking for an elderly friend who lives in a victorian end terrace and needs to save cash.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17457 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17457 Wed, 20 Apr 2022 09:39:36 +0100 lineweight
Increasingly I'm seeing it suggested as a preferred (and cheaper) option by builders, in place of more conventional methods.

I know there are some very long threads on here on the subject - but not much activity on them in the past five years or so.

My question is; has thinking changed significantly in the past ten years? Has additional testing proved their worth, or has technology improved such that they are now more effective?

Is it an option that I should remove from the "probably snake oil" category?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17577 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17577 Sun, 25 Sep 2022 08:35:10 +0100 minisaurus
Does anyone know more detail? We’ll need quite a bit of battery storage if this is going to work, I think?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16903 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16903 Sat, 23 Jan 2021 15:56:50 +0000 owlman Looking around at available info., it seems that you're stuck with whether your supplier does it or not, and I assume once they do an install you're stuck with them for a while.
I've no idea if they charge for installation or if you can have one done privately and then drift around the various suppliers for the most lucrative tariff.
I spoke to one supplier who said they have differing Winter and Summer Economy 7 tariffs which sounds interesting, but the guy was new to the job.

Does anyone have first hand knowledge of a recent install with costs etc., and how it works?

Thanks.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17566 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17566 Tue, 13 Sep 2022 16:42:11 +0100 ComeOnPilgrim
Any thoughts on ratio, depth, anything else?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17559 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17559 Thu, 08 Sep 2022 07:23:49 +0100 an02ew http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17567 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17567 Wed, 14 Sep 2022 21:30:52 +0100 fostertom
"While LED lighting is more energy-efficient and costs less to run, the researchers say the increased blue light radiation associated with it is causing “substantial biological impacts” ... its ability to suppress the production of melatonin ... can worsen people’s sleeping habits, which in turn can lead to a variety of chronic health conditions over time .. findings on how local street lighting has dramatically reduced the abundance of nocturnal insect populations ... some authorities are ... changing the bandwidths of their LED bulbs to produce less harmful blue light, as seen on the Isle of Wight, which uses warmer bulbs that emit less blue light"]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17572 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17572 Mon, 19 Sep 2022 14:42:32 +0100 Rex
My building insurance is soon due and the renewal premium has rocketed by 50%, probably owning to a £1700 Storm Eunice claim.

In checking the various internet comparison sites, one question arises regarding the alarm. Mine is a plain vanilla alarm, only has internal PIR and activates the external sounder. Fitted it myself during the build, test is annually by ensuring the PIRs are working and the sounder activates, and every five years, change the back-up battery.

But the questions all relate to having an annual approved expert check and test the alarm as well as 'was it installed by an approved installer?'

I never know how to answer this question; it was installed ten years ago.

I know insurance companies will find any reason to discard a claim, but how does one safely answer this question.

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17573 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17573 Mon, 19 Sep 2022 14:48:34 +0100 Rex
Further to my previous insurance question regarding alarms, I am always 'frightened' by another question on all insurance forms regarding the proximity of trees within 5 m of the property.

We have leylandii within five meters, some are the neighbours and are well over 10m tall. They were there when we built but the nature of London Clay dictated that we have piled foundations.

So neither the trees nor the clay is an issue. But insurance forms do not cover this fact; there are either trees which are dangerous or not.

So I always ere on the side of safety and say we do have trees, and I imagine that as a result, the premium reflects that fact.

Is there a way around this unreasonable premium hike?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17569 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17569 Fri, 16 Sep 2022 00:41:39 +0100 fostertom
Now for a pole hedge trimmer. The Bosch one isn't well reviewed, so we may not be able to share batteries/charger with the strimmer. A Gtech one is well reviewed, with different pattern of 18v 2Ah battery as standard but very weak recharging - a 13a plugtop type one with wire to a co-ax plug into the battery - 4hr recharge!

First question - would it be safe, for the battery, to find a stronger plugtop-type charger with same co-ax plug? Or do they only exist in 'weak' rating?

Second - would it be fair to say, as the Bosch hedge trimmer quotes 45min runtime on 18v 2.5Ah battery, the Gtech 60mins on a 18v 2Ah battery, the Bosch's motor must be consuming 3.3A x 18v = 60W; the Gtech 2A x 18v = 36W? That wd be odd, as the Gtech blade is 510mm vs 450mm Bosch, and can cut a 25mm branch vs 19mm. Motor power seems never stated, for cordless garden tools.

Third - first (and only) time I used the non-Bosch 3Ah battery in the strimmer, the motor burnt out, replaced under guarantee - it had actually smoked a bit once before, so was poss an original motor fault. Or is it poss for a (cheaper, non-original) Li-ion battery to deliver xs voltage or otherwise confuse the strimmer's electronics?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17563 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17563 Mon, 12 Sep 2022 14:24:04 +0100 BenM
I was just wondering if anyone had any recommendations on tanking slurry products?

Seems to be quite the choice, and just interested to hear from people who had a particularly good experience with a particular product.

Just getting ready to do the floor floor and walls of over brick lined cellar, follow some extensive paint stripping!

Cheers

Ben]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17561 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17561 Fri, 09 Sep 2022 15:32:04 +0100 marsaday
I had my solar panels installed in May and I am still waiting for my battery.

IS this company specific or across the whole industry ?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17481 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17481 Wed, 01 Jun 2022 15:48:33 +0100 neelpeel
PVGIS tells me I should get 500-550kWh per month in the summer months and down to 80-90kWh in the winter months for a 4.5kW setup (3970kWh/yr total).

For my EV I average between 5 - 10kWh use each day. Sometimes none, sometimes 25kWh. So I reckon I should be able to cover most of my miles.
I don't have a water tank so I can't easily dump excess solar, but I am planning for a A2A ASHP install.

I'm planning to DIY for the most part and looking for Used panels to keep the up-front cost down. I'll get an electrician to do the electrical commissioning.

This means that I will probably NOT be able to get MCS signoff.

- Does that mean that I can't tie to the grid at all? Or just that I can't claim for export?

- I know there is a 3.68kW limit, but my thoughts were to slightly oversize (4.5kW) and use an inverter limited to 3.68kW. I assume there could therefore be some 'clipping' in the summer, but I would get better output in the winter. I could also try and mount some panels for winter generation. Does this make sense?

- Is it possible to supply the EV (via Zappi charger) and house without grid tie-in? Which, if not grid-tied, I assume I could then bypass the 3.68kW limit?

- Am I daft to ignore 'export' and just go for MCS install and grid-tie?

- Any ideas for 'dumping' my excess solar in the summer given lack of water tank?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17554 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17554 Wed, 31 Aug 2022 10:52:23 +0100 greenfinger
Apologies for another question so soon... Having removed the concrete render from the back of our house, I've also removed the soffits which I'll replace after repointing. I don't know much about building, but I presume the wood on top of the wall is the wall plate? On the right hand side, this seems to be as I would expect - firmly on top of the wall, leaving space in front for ventilation, with small pieces of wood to attach the soffits to. But as it goes along the wall, the wall plate gets further and further away. By the time it reaches the left hand side, it is no longer on the wall at all!

Aside from potentially being wrong, the other problem is that I plan to install ventilated soffits. In that area they won't be very effective because the timber pretty much spans the gap the soffit will span, so not much air would get passed.

Bit stuck as to whether I am over worrying, it is totally wrong and needs remedial action, or something in between. Any help would be fantastic.

The first photo shows the full length.
The second shows only half the length, looking in the opposite direction, and starting from where the wall plate/timber starts to move away from the wall top. I've put a green line on to help show the timber edge.
The third is a closer look at the timber off the wall.
And the fourth is the same, but looking from behind).

Please ignore all the plastic bags etc which have just been put in to prevent unwanted visitors.

Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17555 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17555 Thu, 01 Sep 2022 16:52:45 +0100 fostertom https://www.theguardian.com/science/2022/sep/01/crab-lobster-shells-could-used-make-renewable-batteries
Makes it sound very significant, altho early days yet.

Chitin common not only in crustacean shells, but in v large quantites of present food waste.

Apparently not the only possibility under development for hi-performance batteries which don't require those naughty rare earths, also biodegradeable to compost, and the zinc readily recoverable.

What this means
- the world no longer beholden to China, which has cornered most of the rare earth sources
- no shortage of battery materials
- no more asset-stripping of poor countries
- no more slave labour in the mines, quarries and open-casts
- no more Renewable intermittency problem, therefore
- no need for nukes or other 'base load'.]]>