Tue, 19 Dec 2023 08:35:57 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17624 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17624 Mon, 31 Oct 2022 08:03:26 +0000 kristeva
This is most likely a stupid question but knowing precious little about boilers I've made an assumption about the answer for a number of months now!

Where a combi boiler is configured to provide central heating and hot water for bath/kitchen, etc, is there any reason why you can't shut down the central heating but continue providing hot water to services?

At some point I'll need to shut down and drain my CH for building work. The simpleton in me just assumes you turn a few shut off valves to isolate the CH.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17640 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17640 Sun, 13 Nov 2022 14:54:25 +0000 bot de paille
Somethingin the range of 6 kWp total for the panels and 9kWh total for the battery storage. Looking for something that can be bought by the client and then installed by an electricien.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13964 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13964 Thu, 14 Jan 2016 21:47:38 +0000 Shevek
Needs to be:
1. Mains powered.
2. Hardwired interlink with 2 core + earth cable (not wireless).
3. Compact, white, simple, least amount of stupid frilly bits as possible.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17426 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17426 Tue, 22 Mar 2022 14:13:01 +0000 WeeBeastie
I first contacted my supplier who said go to your DNO.
I went to the DNO and they gave me a quote (yikes!).
DNO said supplier must remove the meter before DNO can disconnect.
Back to supplier and now awaiting their reply about removing meter....


I found an old thread on here that said disconnecting from the mains was free - my quote is over 800GBP! I think this involves the DNO digging up the pavement and disconnecting near the mains. Is this what needs to be done?? All I want from 'disconnecting' is no longer using gas and no longer paying the standing charge (final gas appliance gone) - can it not be capped below the floor in the house???]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17632 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17632 Thu, 03 Nov 2022 23:49:48 +0000 ballen
Having joined the forum a couple of years ago while waiting for the purchase of our house to go through, I have definitely learnt alot and we are now ready to crack on with things.

I do tend to be a bit of a perfectionist, however, as much as I would love a passive house, I realise that given a 130 year old building and a fairly limited budget, there is going to be a fair bit of compromise.

The ideal solution would have probably been EWI all round with some sort of reclaimed brick slip finish - far too costly obviously, we didn't really want to loose the brick and are in a conservation area so would probably have had little choice with the front at least. As such, we've decided to split the work into two main phases - with one part of the building being primarily IWI, which will be happening first, allowing us to redecorate most of the house at the same time and the other EWI, coming at a later stage, when funds allow.

The 'phase 1' plan is:
Walls (blue on plan) - 80mm Woodfibre w/ lime render IWI giving 0.39ish u-value (possibly eps instead in ensuite)
Suspended floor (green)- 200mm mineral wool breather membrane 'hammock' for support and VCL over the top, existing pitch pine boards to finish giving approx 0.19 u-value
Attic rooms - 40mm celotex between rafters (leaving 50mm ventilation gap, felt lap vents to be fitted), 100mm celotex over top, boards taped with aluminium tape and an airtight tape to the walls, possibly battens to form 25mm service void then 12.5mm plasterboard giving a u-value of 0.16
Windows - these are currently badly fitted UPVC casement windows, looking to change these to new UPVC sliding sash's - appreciate that this could be a little controversial but given the budget we have, these seemed a good compromise between making some improvement and the overall cost.

Phase 2 would be converting the remaining 'back' roofs to warm roofs, whilst extending overhang for 150mm EPS EWI (red on plan), down to footing. New windows/doors fitted outbound in insulation layer.

A few questions:
- BCO suggested 100mm celotex be reduced to 75mm due to risk of interstitial condensation - he wasn't too bothered either way but given a decent VCL I'd have thought 100mm would pose no additional risk?

- Woodfibre boards - any recommendations for a 'system'? Looking at ecomerchant's steico/breathaplasta as it seems fairly simple compared to some others and competitively priced.

- How to people handle heavy fixings in woodfibre e.g. curtain poles, radiators where these can't be moved to an internal wall.

- Internal Partition wall returns - I was looking at doing these in something like 30mm boards, coming in 500mm or so and tapering to avoid any steps. Not too sure how I'd achieve this other than a fair bit of time with a rasp?

- Trickle vents - BCO wants these fitted, I'm not too keen on the idea of spending time taping and parging to improve the air tightness, just to spend a load of money on new windows with a big hole in, undoing all my hard work. I guess the only other option is MVHR though - is this ever going to be worth fitting given that even with my best efforts this is still likely to be a fairly leaky building - I have half a plan involving ductwork down chimney's but given the extra costs and possibly limited usefulness, perhaps trickle vents are the easier options

Sorry for the long first post and thanks in advance, would welcome any other comments/thoughts on the above too!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17636 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17636 Thu, 10 Nov 2022 12:47:00 +0000 Newbuild
Access from inside is limited as the floor is tiled; is there anything I can do from outside to fill the void? I could quite easily drill hole through the mortar joints under the sil.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17638 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17638 Thu, 10 Nov 2022 15:23:00 +0000 revor http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17637 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17637 Thu, 10 Nov 2022 15:10:29 +0000 TimSmall
The insulation type mostly EPS, but a few bits of render carrier board, and rockwool (for fire breaks) and thickness varies from wall to wall (e.g. cavity vs. solid).

The windows are all partly or wholly moved out into the plane of the insulation.

The render supplier has supplied window reveal beads (they stocked two types).

Before fitting the beads I was looking at the beads and didn't really think they'd be capable of accommodating much movement. One window is SW facing and pretty large (2.6 m high by 3.4 m wide), and this is in the thickest insulation (280mm).

I found this document from the German Association for Insulation Systems, Plaster and Mortar (VDPM):

https://de.calameo.com/read/00110231894f5dbc36809

"Ausbildung von Details mit Profilen und Fugendichtungsbändern bei Aussenputz und WDVS"

(Formation of details with profiles and joint sealing tapes for external render and ETICS)

Google Translate does a reasonable job on it, and there's an extract in English on this supplier's site as part of this catalogue (page 12):

https://www.ejot.de/medias/sys_master/Catalogues%20ETICS/cat-etics/h73/h0d/9230512685086/EJOT-cat-profile-2022-03-25-EN.pdf

... this says that we need high movement ("Class A") window reveal beads for most locations.

From looking at other manufacturers' catalogues, it looks like the beads we currently have here are probably "Class C" (with not much movement, and definitely not up to spec for the big window).

Any tips on any UK suppliers which might stock high movement "Class A" beads?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17625 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17625 Mon, 31 Oct 2022 08:58:33 +0000 fostertom http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17613 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17613 Thu, 20 Oct 2022 18:11:05 +0100 tony http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15526 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15526 Fri, 26 Jan 2018 08:55:09 +0000 Victorianeco
Need to replace 18no 25w e14 candle bulbs, ideally with led filament style.

I need 2700k, as high CRI as possible and without breaking the bank.

Any thoughts? Slowly working my way round the house

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17630 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17630 Wed, 02 Nov 2022 19:48:00 +0000 Julio
I am looking at a project for a potential EWI job. The walls are 600mm wide, stone. I was wondering what effect the insulation would have on such massive walls, presumably over time the walls would heat up and maintain a steady (nearish 20^c temperature). Or would the huge amount mass of the wall negate the effectiveness of the insulation in some way? My concern is that the walls have so much mass that it would require quite alot of heat to just warm them up and keep them to near temperature.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17584 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17584 Tue, 27 Sep 2022 20:13:49 +0100 chrisinbrighton Thanks.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17631 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17631 Thu, 03 Nov 2022 07:48:06 +0000 Rex

Want to buy some multi-coloured, mains powered string lights to put around a tree for Christmas. Built-in timer (8 on 16 off) essential. Having difficulty finding a 15m length of lights (may be 20m overall) but have found this https://www.robertdyas.co.uk/robert-dyas-mains-operated-led-string-lights-multicoloured.


Is there any reason why I should not cut to 15m LED length and re- attach the 10m from plug to bulb? Obviously, it would need to be waterproof.


Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17615 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17615 Fri, 21 Oct 2022 09:54:10 +0100 bxman
I have suggested our district should do the same and it has been well received however there is a perception that such equipment is still way beyond their budget.

Can any of you recommend suitable equipment that would do the job and give an indication of it's cost .

And if possible any experience of similar schemes that worked or
were there pitfalls that caused them to fail.


Many thanks for reading .

cheers Patrick]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17626 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17626 Mon, 31 Oct 2022 13:10:41 +0000 Peter_in_Hungary how far up the grid will problems be seen - from the consumer to the first transformer or further back all the way to the power station?
What is the upgrade(s) typically needed to enable feed-in?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15070 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15070 Wed, 26 Apr 2017 23:05:01 +0100 ComeOnPilgrim http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17623 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17623 Sat, 29 Oct 2022 15:26:11 +0100 WillInAberdeen
It's good that the two 'innovative' companies are combining.

But it seems the industry has consolidated back into a 'big six' of companies (BG, Eon, EDF, Ovo, SP and now Octopus) , and nearly all the new entrants have been wiped out now.

The industry has nearly all consolidated onto the same tariffs set exactly at the OFGEM price cap, and it is difficult to switch as they are not taking new customers.

Given the need for major innovation and change to different kinds of tariffs (ToU,EVs, V2G, VPP, other TLAs), that doesn't seem good to me - what do people think?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17520 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17520 Wed, 20 Jul 2022 12:29:42 +0100 fostertom
https://www.theguardian.com/money/2022/jul/20/green-upgrades-could-cut-uk-energy-bills-by-1800-a-year-finds-study

"Analysis of 5m house sales in England and Wales found that installing an air-source heat pump could increase the value of a home by about £5,000-£8,000, solar panels could increase it by between £1,350 and £5,400 and an electric vehicle charging point could increase it by about £5,000." Presumable additive?

"The Energy Saving Trust estimates that ... electric vehicle charging points [cost] about £1,000" - for £5000 resale boost!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17622 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17622 Fri, 28 Oct 2022 13:31:22 +0100 philedge
Heres how I see the reverse seems a more likely scenario.

Panels are the same
Panel mounting rails and clamps are the same
Commercial farms need structural support frames and likely concrete foundations. Domestic install uses existing roof
Commercial farms need service roads. Domestic install uses existing driveway
Commercial farms need new electrical infrastructure for grid connection. Domestic install uses existing grid connection
Commercial farms use bigger inverters with more panels connected per inverter. Domestic install uses fewer panels per inverter.

It seems to me that the only time a domestic system may have more embodied carbon is in the lower panel to inverter ratio. In all other aspects the commercial farm has the same or significantly more embodied carbon than a domestic system.

Am I missing something?.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14771 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14771 Mon, 12 Dec 2016 03:39:33 +0000 wookey
The LEDs are all current-driven 350mA units. There are 3 drivers, one for each circuit. The switching is all mains. The drivers are in the loft for future accessibility, with all through-cabling gasketed to preserve airtightness as much as possible. The Luminaires are in a false ceiling below the airtightness membrane.

After much farting about I have all the wiring done and I even got it right - the switches turn on/off the right lights. However, whilst the main room light works fine, both the reading-lights flash on momentarily every few seconds even when 'off'. One with 4-second period, the other 7.

They worked fine when initially tested, and when all three drivers were running off one switch (temporary wiring setup for a couple of weeks until today). But now that the cabling is properly separated and in conduit I have this interesting strobing. What on earth is that about?

The LED/drivers combo for the 1W LEDs are these:
http://www.ledkia.com/uk/buy-led-downlights/1104-adjustable-1w-cob-led-spotlight.html (you have to click the right photo to see the driver - website too fancy for me to give you an actual URL), i.e. 'cheap and nasty' but they work with about 70% efficiency which is good enough given the very low power.

So how does the driver manage to generate some light when its mains input is switched off? And why hasn't it being doing it for the last few weeks? My best guess is that now I have cables properly laid there is some voltage induced from nearby parallel cables and because it's such a low-power driver this is enough for the driver to try and start up? I've not done any measurements yet, because I've spent about 12 hours cabling/wiring this weekend and I'm bored of that. The cables from junction boxes to switch are parallel for about 3m. But those shouldn't have any current in them when all the circuits are off. The incoming mains doesn't run parallel at all, so my theory isn't very convincing to me, but otherwise it makes even less sense. It's also on a short spur so won't be current-carrying unless at least one of the circuits is on.

I suppose I need to disconnect some things and see what it is that makes it stop.

Just thought I'd post in case anyone else had come across this sort of peculiarity before.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17620 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17620 Wed, 26 Oct 2022 21:34:59 +0100 fostertom
Arrayed above clear glass overhead glazing, I can arrange them to intercept direct penetration thro the glazing below into the interior by summer (equinox to June solstice) sun; but to allow winter (Dec solstice to equinox) sun to penetrate.

The fins would be made of Pilks self-cleaning glass, so would themselves shine brightly while illuminated by sun, even while blocking the sun's rays from going further. That way, I hope that they'd strongly illuminate the interior, like a bright overcast sky, the thro clear glass overhead glazing into the interior.

The question is, do the white opaque but translucent fins intercept solar rays by a) reflecting them, or by b) absorbing their heat and re-radiating?
If a), then they would simply bounce the rays thro the glazing into the interior.
if b), they would be somewhat cooled by convection before re-radiating about half (from one of their two surfaces) thro the glazing into the interior.

If shining brightly, to illuminate the interior, is this pro rata with the infra red also being radiated into the interior.

I'd really appreciate some illumination (!) on the physics of this - absorbency, reflectivity etc incl whether either of these can be maximised for the visible spectrum, minimsed for infra red.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17621 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17621 Thu, 27 Oct 2022 10:14:46 +0100 fostertom https://www.theguardian.com/business/2022/oct/27/infrastructure-at-risk-from-climate-crisis-due-to-ministers-extreme-weakness]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17616 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17616 Sat, 22 Oct 2022 11:43:57 +0100 HoveTom
I have a subfloor with wet ufh in place already and will be having engineered parquet laid over the top soon.

The blocks seem to come in 10mm, 15mm and around 20mm thicknesses. I’m wondering which thickness is best? I’m guessing the 20mm thick blocks take longer to heat up but perhaps retain their heat for longer so are better overall? No idea hence the post here.

My kitchen/diner has a new solid floor with around 150mm of insulation and around a 45mm screed layer ontop. The rest of the house has a suspended timber floor with around 75 mm of PIR insulation between the joists and then the ufh laid in about 20mm of a dry sand and cement mix on top. This is covered with Knauf Gifa board which is 18mm thick and has very good thermal conductivity (about 4 times that of a a chipboard subfloor).

I’m thinking the 10mm blocks may be just too thin (they have the same wooden wear layer as the 15mm blocks) and so not very strong and that the 20mm blocks are unnecessarily thick. So leaning towards the 15 mm block, does anyone have any experience, good or bad?

We like the 'tumbled' look which is when new blocks are thrashed around in a mixer with stones to knock the edges off them and make them look a little older. In order to survive this process most tumbled blocks are around 20mm thick. 15mm tumbled blocks can be bought but there is less choice.

Any experience appreciated.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17618 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17618 Sun, 23 Oct 2022 16:15:24 +0100 Rex
In the kitchen, we have a number of 2 gang 13a sockets set into the wall. Currently, there is a kettle, radio (AM and FM) and a dimmable led light plugged in.

The kitchen has eight, LED downlights.

If listening to AM and the downlights are on, there is unacceptable interference on the radio; but FM is fine. If the plug-in led on the same circuit is on, neither AM or FM is listenable.

It is obviously something to do with the LED lights

Is there anything I can do? Fit some kind of suppressor into the socket?

Thanks and toodle pip

Rex]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17604 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17604 Thu, 13 Oct 2022 14:23:55 +0100 DWHITE
Is it fine just to blast expanding foam around this and then cut it away level with the cement boards? The gap is 15mm at it's most narrow, 40mm at it's widest point. Nasty draught and cold emanating from the hole. Picture (hopefully) attached.

Bonus question: In the event I fill the void with roughly 300mm of EPS beads. Would this suffice as the insulation layer for a thin retrofit wet UFH system to be laid on top of the block/beam? My thought process being that you could argue the block and beam acts as a useful thermal mass or would the thermal bypass of the block and beam render this ineffective? This is a poorly built 1990's house after all!

Any help is greatly appreciated and will be acted upon!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17596 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17596 Fri, 07 Oct 2022 10:14:34 +0100 neelpeel The room is insulated, but I still think it must waste a great deal of heat, especially in the summer when the heating is switched off and only the hot water is left running.

The wasted heat I think comes from the need to heat a buffer tank. Is there a way to switch this feature off or bypass it completely? I know this would mean waiting for longer for the water to heat when having a shower, but I'm willing to live with that and use the kettle for most hot water needs.

The boiler is a 15 yr old Grant Vortex Outdoor Combi.

I had considered directly insulating the boiler, but I guess that could overheat the components and lead to speedy boiler death?!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17617 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17617 Sat, 22 Oct 2022 14:08:13 +0100 georgiegirl
I am struggling to find exactly what I think would be the best solution for us, namely a heat battery that accepts charging from solar PV (with economy 7 back up) and that does both space and water heating. Sunamp seem to only provide DHW, although I have found their UniQ Edual mentioned online, but there is no reference to it on their website.

Or would a thermal store provide everything that I want?

Recommendations for either system gratefully received.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17594 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17594 Thu, 06 Oct 2022 22:06:36 +0100 tony http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17605 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17605 Thu, 13 Oct 2022 18:11:15 +0100 tony http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17607 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17607 Sun, 16 Oct 2022 14:25:47 +0100 Kath466 The internal walls have been covered with lime mortar quite deeply in parts due to the random thickness of the stone and are to be covered in wood fibre. However I have been unable to find suitable insulation for the different floors inc. suspended, solid concrete, a ruined encaustic tile hall unsure what is below, and asphalt covering on the kitchen floor again unsure of what's below. There is no cellar.
I cannot face excavating as I live here and have three big dogs so couldn't inflict them on anyone else.
Can I use impermeable insulation when walls will be vapour permeable, if so, what would you recommend?I've read that impermeable insulation will force moisture up the walls.
I only have 70 mm to insulate and line but needs it to be fairly thin as anything deeper will interfere with the first step on the stairs.
Can I put the insulation on top of the encaustic tiles or do I remove them first.
I would prefer impermeable as will need vinyl flooring because of the dogs.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17612 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17612 Tue, 18 Oct 2022 13:59:41 +0100 Doubting_Thomas
Lo and behold Myenergi, who make the Eddi have just announced their 'Libbi' modular battery which looks like it might ease my concerns over compatibility and doubling up on diverters/inverters.

No word yet on costs but if anyone else has Myenergi devices (e.g. Zappi), it might be of interest:

https://myenergi.com/libbi/]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17603 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17603 Thu, 13 Oct 2022 03:11:47 +0100 omehegan
Now I'm thinking about the future, and what I would replace this boiler with when it's time to get off gas completely. It's just an academic question at the moment, but I am wondering what others would suggest. The house doesn't have ducts, and adding them would be complex, so any kind of ducted central system is probably out. Mini-splits in each room would be feasible and may be the way to go, ideally if I can control them from a central point. But the hydronic heat is nice for comfort, and I prefer it to fans and hot air blowing around the place. However my impression is that air to water heat pumps struggle to match the efficiency and performance of air to air ones for home heating. I suppose the other upside to air to air is that they can provide cooling in all rooms as well, something that we don't have today... I also note that there are more exotic things, like the Tepeo ZEB boiler. Maybe something like that will be a better option.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17611 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17611 Mon, 17 Oct 2022 21:05:20 +0100 David Lam Sadly the cost for delivery of wood fibre is insane! I only need a little bit and it's £70 just for getting it here.
Does anybody in the area have any? Happy to pay the original price if it's just a reasonable drive away.
Thanks!

David]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17440 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17440 Fri, 08 Apr 2022 12:21:16 +0100 Shevek - 14 mm engineered wood click boards (with 3mm pre-finished oak top layer)
- 2-3 mm cork (or rubber cork) underlay for sound insulation
- existing structural floor is beam and block with screed, and we're at first floor level over another apartment

When I discuss the cork underlay at various outlets here (in Portugal) they always recommend laying a vapour impermeable membrane before putting the cork underlay down, even though we're at first floor level.

I presume this is because the concrete can absorb moisture from the air and then it'll want to head for the dry cork and wood?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17610 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17610 Mon, 17 Oct 2022 21:02:10 +0100 David Lam http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17595 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17595 Fri, 07 Oct 2022 09:34:21 +0100 Jeff B
I was surprised that despite reducing the depth of insulation by a third the change in U value is only 10% (from 0.20 to 0.22).

I would appreciate any thoughts on whether it is worth spending the extra £'s on 25mm Celotex (and the extra amount of fiddly work required) for such a small change in U value? I suppose the implications of "overinsulating"
the walls with possible attendant condensation issues are also on my mind, especially any adverse effects on the Rockwool loose fibre insulation inside the cavity.

Thanks.
Jeff]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17590 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17590 Sat, 01 Oct 2022 10:19:25 +0100 XT600 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17602 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17602 Wed, 12 Oct 2022 16:26:06 +0100 fostertom http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17582 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17582 Tue, 27 Sep 2022 14:48:47 +0100 alexeix
We’ve moved into a 1950s semi and are planning to extend and do a loft conversion, so we’ll max out the insulation in the new areas.

The original walls are of cavity wall construction, but seem quite thin.
The thickness is 9-10 inches (approx 230-255mm).
That’s a pretty small gap between the bricks, so is it viable to do cavity wall insulation or should we concentrate on insulating the new build areas, inside the floors of the existing areas, etc.?
We’ll be getting new windows and are considering going triple glazed, but our budget is limited, so we want to spend where we’ll see the most benefit.

We’ve considered internal/external insulation panels, but we want to check the viability of cavity wall insulation first.
Internal panels would create a lot of mess and external would look weird, since our attached neighbour doesn’t have the same.

Does anyone here have experience of such thin cavities?
Thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17116 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17116 Mon, 05 Jul 2021 07:09:34 +0100 dereke
This is going to be on a solid floor.

Timber frame (4x2")
OSB
Looking at 140-200mm of woodfibre/EPS insulation (found a deal on some cheap woodfibre)
Breather membrane
Vertical Battens
Horizontal Cladding

I've done something similar before but with much thinner insulation and I was able to hang the battens from the eaves as well as using some helical fasteners. That is not really going to be possible in this case. I have a pitched roof but a small amount of over hang - also warm roof. And I can't find fasteners long enough to do 200mm of insulation.

Are there any resources out there with detailing for this kind of build up?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17593 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17593 Thu, 06 Oct 2022 21:07:53 +0100 djh
Increased carbon emissions, primary forest destroyed and you and I paying for it.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17600 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17600 Sat, 08 Oct 2022 23:49:00 +0100 greenfinger
I'm going to be having some roof work done. The lead needs replacing and doing properly where a lower roof meets a wall (it slopes down the side of the wall... ASIDE - what's it called where a roof meets a wall like this?).

The chap doing it has proposed to put in long overlapping lengths of lead beneath all the slates (I think around 1.5m lengths each). And then lengths of around 1m flashing on top of the slates.

All the info and videos I can find say to use small soakers that are the same length as the slates, and sit on top one slate/covered by the next.

I'm worried that the way the chap has proposed to do it is wrong, as I can't find anything that recommends doing it like that. In case it changes anything, he is planning to put a bell bead on the wall above the lead.

Sorry if I've not explained that very well... It's be a long day!

Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17601 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17601 Sun, 09 Oct 2022 00:47:32 +0100 greenfinger
I recently had some new windows fitted.  The old ones were wooden and very much on their last legs with plenty of rot.  Think they were installed in the 70s.  Th new ones are aluminium.  The fitters simply removed the old, put in the new, and foamed the gaps around where the windows meet the walls.  

I really don't know much about windows, and have been looking into this but not finding any answers...  Should there be any kind of damp proofing, barrier, or anything along those lines between the walls and windows?  Or have they done it right?  I note that the old windows had a kind of thick type of felt above them and bedded into the walls, but this was cut away during the fitting. 

Can anyone please tell me if I'm worrying about nothing or whether there should be something there?

Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17589 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17589 Sat, 01 Oct 2022 07:49:26 +0100 BenM
I was just wondering if anyone had installed smart controls, such as Nest, Hove etc. on their thermal store?

We have a Gledhill Thermal Store that does our hot water heating, which has input from a gas boiler, multi fuel stove and solar thermal. It has a pretty basic 2 channel Honeywell controls (similar to this https://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-home-2-channel-digital-programmer/88608?tc=UA3&ds_kid=92700055281954502&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAjwp9qZBhBkEiwAsYFsb9LGMXiJ427neZWbo6vSrOkDjJjm0ZZRnus8ydY9Nya1Qstyj4eK9hoCElIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) which control the boiler and central heating.

Would quite like to switch to a smart control, but nervous about how this will work with the stove and the two stats on the tank (especially the top stat that effectively stops the tank from boiling!).

Any advice or thoughts would be much appreciated.

Regards

Ben]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17599 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17599 Sat, 08 Oct 2022 17:05:30 +0100 TimSmall
The majority is going onto EPS70, but some render carrier boards (ventilated rainscreen above pitched roof), and some onto Rockwool (fire breaks).

A local building firm will be carrying out the work, but will be following my specification. They've not applied EWI before, but are reasonably intelligent, have some skilled traditional render guys, and are happy to take advice, and ask questions if unsure! They have a couple of quotes from two suppliers...

The first one is about 10 miles away. They've not been super-fast at getting back to me, and they do several types of products (EWI, but also other general commercial building facade products), and not super-strong on technical advice. They stock Ceresit (Polish firm owned by Henkel).

The second firm is about 50 miles away. They specialise in EWI, and has been pretty good at getting back to me. They have a lot of technical advice on their website. They stock Kreisel (again Polish, owned by Fixit Gruppe), but with their own (I think) branding on it.

The products are different (particularly the base coats), and although there is quite a bit of variation in individual item pricing, the total prices are within 5% each other. Having said, the Ceresit firm has spec'ed less base coat in total (20 bags vs. 25) - but I'm not too worried about that because the distance means picking up additional bags wouldn't be too troubling.

The Ceresit has just one type of base coat/adhesive "CT80" (rockwool, EWI and also below DPC), whereas the Kreisel quote has 3 (EPS, Rockwool, and below DPC being different products).

I was wondering if anyone had used either (or ideally both!), and had any recommendations, or other thoughts?

Thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17531 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17531 Tue, 02 Aug 2022 12:37:55 +0100 jackmccabe So far for the top floor I used Phenolic insulated plasterboard on battens, although this seemed a less than ideal solution due to the condensation risks and gaps in the insulation.

So now I have been looking at moisture open insulation solutions, one material I have seen come up for this is EPS.
I have seen some manufacturers offering specifically breathable Graphite EPS (Jub and Baumit), but cannot see any mention by them of using it for internal wall insulation.

For the build-up I was thinking of using a breathable lime adhesive applied to the walls to stick 80 or 100mm eps onto the walls (hopefully this should prevent air leakage through the bricks as well.
Then followed by either plasterboard and gypsum plaster, or alternatively insulated lime plaster applied onto a mesh mechanically fixed through EPS (think this would be more breathable?)

The other alternative to EPS I was looking at was wood fibre insulation, although this performs worse per mm thickness and costs far more. So was just wondering if anyone had any advice on using EPS in a moisture open IWI system?

Thanks in advance]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17598 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17598 Sat, 08 Oct 2022 09:23:23 +0100 David Lam I would like to outset the windows from the masonry to allow future EWI to meet it and reduce the cold bridge.
I plan to have 80mm insulation (probably mineral wool, but maybe EPS).
I have installed some brackets to allow this, as per the window installer's request.
The window installer has asked for a 25mm recess, so the EWI would sit 25mm out from the window.

Is this enough? I've already had feedback from MarkyP (thanks Mark!) who has said 50mm would be better to allow beading for the EWI. Do others agree?
Are there any other comments?
I'll try to add a drawing and photo to show you what is going on.

Thank you so much in advance. Any comments welcome.

David]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17557 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17557 Sat, 03 Sep 2022 09:11:06 +0100 fredd
We have bought a detached turn of the century, maybe a little younger, house that I am planning to to a deep refurb and try to follow enerPHit as closely as possible. I have an unlimited amount of questions and am hoping for advice !

My day job is building new houses so you may think this should be trivial but the more i read about passivhaus and enerphit the more it feels like im about to cross into a third dimension!

Couple of questions right off the bat that im mulling off the bat. Windows From what I have read its best practice to fit the window not onto part of the outer brick skin but completely in the cavity so it is surrounded by insulation.

Q1 Now bearing in mind window frames are 70-90mm wide How then in the front weather sealed when there is a gap ?

Q2. The sides of the window can be fixed with straps, which leaves it dangling in the air. What is there for it to sit on other than cavity wall quilt and a weak plastic cavity closer ?

Thanks in advance and i apologise already for the many many questiions that are coming...

Fred]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17571 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17571 Mon, 19 Sep 2022 10:45:25 +0100 munnum
We have a two story detached house, built in 1999 with twin leaf blocks,100mm cavity partially filled with 50mm aeroboard. On the internal leaf is a dot and dabbed 50mm plasterboard of which around 37mm is insulation material (blueish in colour). The blocks are not plastered internally. The external finish is plastered and is done well. It was my parents house and we are now moving into it.

I was thinking of filling the cavity with PU foam which would improve airtightness and has a higher insulation value than beads. The beads in ireland are grant-applicable and the job would cost me ca. 1,000eu to do with beads versus around 10,000eu! with the closed cell PU foam (not grant applicable).

The house isn't really that leaky, i don' recall any draughts growing up there, we will be changing the windows, it has concrete subfloor and first floor.

I'm thinking of going ahead with the beads, but the rep for the PU foam, mentioned that with the dot and dabbed board inside that there will be a lot of air passing through to the blocks and the beads will just let it through, hence making them not worthwhile at all.

The foam seemingly degrades overtime too (according to my forum research)??

Im open to EWI too, it just seems like a huge job and im not sure if IWI, CWI and EWIis a good mix??]]>