Green Building Forum - Products

Mouldy Oak posts !

jamesingram — Mon, 29 Nov 2010 17:54:04 +0000

cheers Jim]]>

Hemcrete as internal insulation layer

jemhayward — Thu, 22 May 2008 11:55:13 +0100

1. it has some thermal mass, so the building will "work" much like the original high-mass construction regulating temperatures.
2. it will provide a degree of air-tightness that would otherwise have to be created by using a separate process.
3. 200mm will give me a decent level of insulation.
4. fewer materials / stages required making the process less labour intensive and skill based.
5. it will be less affected by damp penetration than dry lining.
6. it will give a more sympathetic wall finish than flat boards.

However, there are a few un-answered questions:
1. will 200mm of hemcrete stuck to the upstairs walls represent a floor loading that will need to be taken into account?
2. how easy is it for semi-skilled labour to apply?
3. anything I've not thought of?]]>

Rainwater harvesting - determining tank size

Rwatking — Wed, 23 Jun 2010 14:25:30 +0100

I'd welcome any comments and/or experiences that people might be able to put forward to give us a clue about all this.

Many thanks]]>

Rainwater Harvesting

jon — Thu, 29 May 2008 20:34:44 +0100

I've come across a few but have no way of differentiating!]]>

Engineered wood flooring in a bathroom?

rhamdu — Fri, 12 Nov 2010 00:32:52 +0000

Anyone actually tried it?]]>

Cedar Shingles UK

StKilda — Sun, 14 Nov 2010 21:19:23 +0000

I have a cedar shingle roof in Surrey that is coming to the end of its life, and I am researching its replacement. So far the quotes I have had have been exorbitant. Can anybody recommend an experienced fitter, who will do a good job, but who isn't going to rip me off?

Likewise with the shingles. I gather the importers make a handsome cut, and it is cheaper to import from Canada. I also know that the quality of the shingles varies enormously from one mill to the next, even with the same grading. So, all very well to import, but from which mill?

Thanks!]]>

How long does double/tripple glazing last?

bella — Thu, 21 Oct 2010 13:23:34 +0100

Countersunk plastic screws for insulation fix?

Justin — Thu, 21 Oct 2010 14:29:37 +0100

Not able to cope with thickness for battens as well, I used 60PIR, initially foam glued in place, well sealed integral foil layer (fully taped including foam/tape at edges). 12.5mm plasterboard was fitted with a minimum number of 120mmx 6mm concrete screws sealed in with caulk to try and preserve the vapour barrier. Nice and solid and warm, but as I expected before I began, I might regret those significant cold spots! (the fat screws).

Since the screws have made a (kind of) grip into the concrete blockwork. I was considering removing them expreimentally and carefully replacing with something less conductive. - But what? Would need very small countersunk head to loose in the PB finish and 6mm dia or thereabouts shank. Any product ideas? I find only Fischer fixings [url]http://www.screwfix.com/prods/81016/Fixings/Cavity-Fixings/Fischer-Insulation-Support-45-x-40-Pack-of-250[/url] but these have enormous heads not suitable for surface of PB.]]>

Cladding on Windows

ardachaidh — Sun, 17 Oct 2010 16:20:26 +0100

Windows

James Norton — Thu, 16 Oct 2008 21:20:34 +0100

http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=732&page=2#Item_15

Looking for close-to-passiv-haus, looking at windows - have bought from Nordan before, and am looking at their Ntech Passive which seems a decent sort of window and performing at the top of the market.

Nordan do not require me to take out a second mortgage just for windows, or learn German or Swedish to order them, therefore can anyone think of a half decent reason to not go straight back to them?

(reasons to the positive also welcome)

J]]>

Moser Baer Solar PV

JTGreen — Mon, 27 Sep 2010 16:01:36 +0100

Powerglaz PV solar from Romag

JTGreen — Fri, 24 Sep 2010 07:22:14 +0100

They are being sold by a local firm at 60cell/230W for Â£646 (inc VAT), exc. installation. Is that good, bad or indifferent?

http://midsummerenergy.co.uk/buy/framed_solar_panels/romag-powerglaz-60-cell-solar-panel.html

http://www.powerglaz.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=46&Itemid=56]]>

Green Furniture

tomhillonline — Thu, 09 Sep 2010 10:45:45 +0100

I was chatting to a friend the other day about the concept of 'green furniture'. We came up with a few ideas but I wondered what other people thought as well ...

* The reclaimed/reused/do with outut debate obviously comes up top. If you can avoid something or get something secondhand then thats gotta be best right?

* Solid wood/particleboard. It strikes me that solid wood is probably better for indoor air quality (no glues/formaldehyde) whilst particleboard makes good use of an otherwise waste product.

* Timber certification.

* Fixings - especially with particleboard. Fixings seem to come lose and reduce the lifetime of the product.

* Fabrics (for beds, sofas etc). Darker, thicker material is likely to last longer. Fairtrade is a good way to go. Things like arm protectors and 'sag' protection is good.

* Should avoid the use of unneccessary materials and products such as lighting in wardrobes etc ...

Does anyone else have any other ideas?

Tom]]>

Bio-Rock Sewage

Coxy — Tue, 02 Feb 2010 22:25:14 +0000

Has anyone installed a Bio-Rock sewage system, the question was asked on another thread but with no response from individuals:

http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3775&page=1

Thanks,

Sean]]>

aerogel prices up 30% - 1st August 2010

RobinB — Tue, 27 Jul 2010 09:48:20 +0100

Domestic "Through the wall" MVHR

SamTownsend — Sun, 07 Mar 2010 13:06:38 +0000

Had some issues with condensation and really need to fit some extraction (no extractor in kitchen and like to steam veg!)

Clearly, heat recovery makes pure sense, so would like to install some. No room for ducting associated with normal loft positioned ones. 1920's semi, Pretty well insulated now considering the type of house.

Saw a couple neat looking units at EcoBuild. One by Vent-axia (Tempra) and Xpelaire do one too (HXR150).

Essentially a replacement for a standard through the wall extractor, but claiming 75 or 80% recovery, Draws slightly less air in to maintain a negative pressure in the room.
Would like to fit one to my bathroom, and one in my kitchen. (Will have to be vigilant with using our cooker hood which is just a recycling one, but clearly don't want to cack up an expensive MVHR with grease etc)

Has anyone out there had any real world experience with these rather neat looking units.
Wondered if they can live up to their claims.]]>

Window quotes

marktime — Thu, 29 Jul 2010 19:17:32 +0100

Is insulated plasterboard dangerous ?

storm — Fri, 23 Jul 2010 13:41:33 +0100

Looking at the plasterboard my builder has used, I was surprised to see what looks like thick polysyrene
type stuff attached to the back of the gypsum board. . I know for a fact that polystyrene is highly toxic. Is this stuff of similar composition ?

. I would be most interested to know ASAP. If there is any cause for concern, as I would far rather ditch the stuff, than be toasty warm and poisoned !

I am aware that there is an amount of outgassing with kingspan / celotex foil covered pheonolic board. ( which has already been installed ) however this will have a good quality vapour barrier to protect
from any emissions. The insulated plasterboard will have no such shield. :neutral:]]>

Using Enviroblock subgrade

MikeRumney — Tue, 13 Jul 2010 11:39:02 +0100

Has anyone come across a "hollow block" version that is wider than the standard 215mm?]]>

bre/breeam code 6 house A+ products

jolly-green-giant — Thu, 22 Jul 2010 21:31:37 +0100

I need as many A+ as possible trying to get to code 6 many thanks roger]]>

Navetas Energy Monitor?

john_connett — Fri, 23 Jul 2010 09:52:09 +0100

http://www.navetas.com/products/showcase/energy-monitor/

The technology looks interesting, identifying different energy uses from a single sensor. They publish "Contact Us" details on their website but several messages over the past few months have not produced a single reply ...]]>

Travertine - Natural Stone Protection

storm — Mon, 12 Jul 2010 09:41:59 +0100

http://stonetechnologies.co.uk/products.php

I'm not particularly comfortable with the idea that Nasa and the US army in Afghanistan, Iraq and the Philippines have used this stuff, Is this suppossed to be a recommendation ? :shocked:

I really don't want to be thinking about war and such like every time I'm brushing my teeth !, Oh well, :neutral:]]>

Hempcrete

ecoworrier — Fri, 02 Mar 2007 15:04:31 +0000

Went to Eco-Build yesterday,
I saw Steve Allin's seminar, along with the guys that built the new Adnams building, on hemp.
Simply inspirational, what do you think?

Growing our way out of global warming?
Imagine if we could grow a building material that had a low density, yet high thermal insulation, with no thermal bridging and inherently air-tight.
As if that weren't enough it can also be used for carbon sequestration, instead of adding to the UK's Carbon Dioxide emissions it decreases the amount in the atmosphere. Don't believe the hype, read on. http://www.lhoist.co.uk/tradical/" >Hempcrete. http://www.lhoist.co.uk/tradical/pdf/Tradical_Information_Pack.pdf" >pdf.

]]>

Low-energy concrete:zeobond e-crete

wookey — Sun, 25 Apr 2010 12:58:32 +0100

We spend a lot of time on here worrying about the energy consequences of using too much concrete. Certainly as I detail an extension I can see how it is hard to avoid if trying not to be _too_ unconventional.

So, has anyone any experience of Zeobond e-crete? It's stuff like concrete with very similar performance but with only 20% of the carbon footprint in production and only 10% more expensive. Which sounds promising. Been available in australia for a couple of years.

Best overview of why it's good:
http://www.thefreelibrary.com/Factor+5+in+eco-cement:+Zeobond+Pty+Ltd.-a0205855041
manufacturers lite:
http://www.zeobond.com/ecr.htm , and the FAQ is informative too

Anyone see any reason not to use this stuff (one may be that it's not available in the UK yet)?]]>

A good old Traditional Water Pump !

storm — Sat, 10 Jul 2010 18:36:24 +0100

As I require an external water source in the garden, the plumber wants to supply a general water tap. He looked fairly aghast when I suggested the idea of a hand pump. Is this such a ridiculous idea then ? :neutral:

I would appreciate the pro's and con's of having, what I deem to be a solid water source, in keeping with the design of a centuries old cottage. To my mind, traditional hand pumps, not only look far nice, but also the water would be forced out more intensely and in greater volume than a silly little twist tap.

My wellies get thick with mud and sheep muck in the winter, and could do with a really good strong pump to get them clean. Also, I like the idea of filling up buckets quickly and so forth. Any one have any experience of a good old traditional pump / any makes recommended ? I'm most eager to learn of your thoughts ! :smile:]]>

Are ALL storage heaters useless ?

storm — Sat, 06 Sep 2008 13:14:31 +0100

Desperately Upset at Standby Power Usage of New Water Pump

Gotanewlife — Fri, 04 Jun 2010 00:09:32 +0100

But I am not happy because my tecnico (who first recommended it - and he is the brightest green man) didn't mention its standby power usage and when I researched the thing I didn't spot it either. It uses 65-70w on standby; that's over 500kW pa or a sixth of my target electricity consumption and I have a PV system sized to give me about what my target consumption is (I get 1 for 1 kW free from the electricity Co for every 1 kW I give them). So, why oh WHY does such a fantastic thing need 70w when doing nothing? I really want the techy answer to this question because I am stuck now. I cannot just turn it off (when the boiler isn't on) because I cannot leave the water in the tank until it is needed; the whole system relies on a continuous usage of the water in the tank - maybe week on week off but also on when the water stops or when I have guests in all my still to be built bedrooms.

Oh well win some lose some - not that I know what the alternatives were and those systems I have seen locally looked pretty appealing. And if anyone is really interested here it is (CRIE5-4):

http://kgnpillinger.com/products/view/?cat=4&id=117

and the relevant tacky manual (3.6MB) is here:

http://net.grundfos.com/Appl/WebCAPS/streamliterature/Grundfosliterature-1813.pdf

and if anyone can tell me why the thing is rated at 550w but draws only 150w according to the P2 curve on page 30 that would be niceâ€¦

:cry:]]>

ThermaWood from FinnForest

ruthguerrier — Sun, 20 Jun 2010 23:16:39 +0100

Many thanks all.
R]]>

Albo Windows & Doors

mitchino — Fri, 11 Sep 2009 14:59:39 +0100

Semi rigid insulation with a cavity?

Mike George — Wed, 19 May 2010 12:10:11 +0100

My question is this:

Which insulations can be used between timber studs while maintaining a clear 25mm cavity on the warm side? There must be no chance of 'slumping'

Any help much appreciated]]>

Suspended coated films vs. 3G

wookey — Wed, 19 May 2010 12:53:06 +0100

http://index.seriouswindows.com/suspended-coated-film.html

Shows the use of 'suspended coated films' instead of a 3rd (or 4th!) pane of glass. So this gives you the extra coatings and convection-transmission reductions but with much less weight and less thickness and presumably less expense. Seems like a really good idea (so long as the film materials have sufficient durability).

They also have foam-filled fiberglass frames which seems like an excellent way of getting Uw down really low (I've seen a few passivehouse windows done this way) whilst avoiding the maintenance cost of wood.

Unfortunately all their numbers are in 'English' units so I haven't quite worked out how good their U-values are, but I expect them to be good if not excellent. What does a US 0.25 Uw translate to in metric? (they vary from 0.09 (2pane, 3film, Xenon, fixed light) to 0.3 (Dual pane, Argon, Door)

The specs are here: http://www.seriouswindows.com/performance-specs/seriouswindows.html

Is anyone doing this suspended film thing in Europe. Do we think it's any good?]]>

PVC gutters- green alternative?

andybw — Tue, 11 May 2010 09:45:33 +0100

Looking for alternatives to PVC gutters and downpipes, I'm aware of aluminium but not sure if they are any greener.
I've looked back thru 10 pages of this forum and cannot find similar thread.
Suggestions welcome - residential extensions/conversions..
Many thanks
Andy]]>

Another post about 3G Doors and Windows !

felixfe — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 21:59:27 +0000

This first post is two things - a round-up of some quotes that I have received recently from various companies for 3G and 2G bifolding doors, and a general question about why on earth the prices I have been getting back are much higher than the Â£300 pm2 to Â£500 pm2 that people are generally suggesting for this kind of unit.

A quick description of the units - measuring 2400mm in width by 2300mm in height, with a single leaf opening to the right and acting as an "everyday door" and the other two doors "bifolding" to the right hand side. Here are the quotes that I have received so far (all exclusive of VAT and delivery) with U values where they have been given -

Howarth - 2G units 4/16/4 argon fill - Â£2204.83 (Â£399 p m2)

Ecoplus / Green Building Store - 3G units, 4/12/4/12/4 argon fill, U value 0.7 w/m2 - Â£5341.96 (Â£967.57 p m2)

Vrogum / Environomix - 2G softwood Â£3819.47 (Â£652.93 p m2)

Vrogum / Enviromix - 3G aluclad U Value centre pane 0.6 - Â£6523.84 (Â£1181.85 p m2) (note that these last 2 do include delivery)

Russell Timbertech - 2G (3G not available for bifolding doors) - Â£3668 (Â£664.49 p m2)

Ecomerchant - (supplying bifolding Viking Doors) 2G U-Value 1.41 w/m2 - Â£2457.50 (Â£445.19)

It runs contrary to the excellent advice of other users of the forum, but it seems like there is a big disparity still between 2G and 3G prices, with 3G availability still quite limited and prices running above Â£1000 p m2! I'm really not sure why these are coming back so pricey - perhaps because I am trying to incorporate an "everyday door" since this will be the main entrance to the house?

Any advice welcome - otherwise I guess I just have to get haggling!]]>

Posi joists / Eco joists - anyone used them, experiences...?

DarylP — Fri, 07 May 2010 20:47:55 +0100

Has anyone had any experience using Posi joists (or the Eco joist equivalents) - the open web metal braced joist? Specifically, ease of use, cost, and anything to look out for.

We are thinking of them for a project, but don't want to be at the bleeding edge of things....

Thanks in advance. :wink:]]>

Reviews of stoves

sl638e — Tue, 04 Dec 2007 08:53:45 +0000

I'm trying to choose between a few different models of wood burning stove, and I wonder if anyone

a) knows a good place to find user reviews of different models
or
b) has any personal experiences of the models I'm considering?

The stoves I'm thinking about are:
Clearview Pioneer
Hwam Vivaldi
Nestor Martin IT13 or R23

(These models are of interest because we live in a smoke control zone and all are authorised.)

Any advice would be welcome!

Cheers

Anne]]>

Is there a shortage of hemp in the UK?

Mike George — Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:11:01 +0100

Insulation to hang off ground floor joists from the cellar

StuartB — Fri, 09 Apr 2010 09:18:57 +0100

I have easy access to the joists from the cellar, apart from pipes and cables there are just joists with the ground floor floorboards sitting on top. There is currently no insulation whatsoever.

My initial thoughts are to use something like space blankets and tack them to the bottom side of the joists, this would cover all pipes and cables. The alternative would be to stuff insulation in between joists and around pipes and cables and use straps to keep it up - this may be the cheaper option.

Can you see any problems with these options or are there any other options? One of my concerns is that you won't be able to spot a leaky pipe which could lead to more extensive damage. The area is about 120sqm.

Cheers]]>

Insulated hot water cylinders, comparing Heat Loss Factors....

DarylP — Wed, 31 Mar 2010 17:38:33 +0100

Does anyone have any insight on how manufactures calculate heat loss factors for hot water cylinders? Are they comparable across different manufacturers?

eg Grant quote a heat loss factor for a 170litre, PUR insulated cylinder at .601 kw/l/24hours
Tribune quote for a similar 180litre PUR insulated cylinder 1.6 kWh/24hrs

Not quite the same units, are they? :confused:

Thanks in advance...]]>

Are green walls just green bling?

suegreenbuilding — Mon, 29 Mar 2010 15:21:00 +0100

As an ecologist I am a fan of good quality biodiverse living roofs in the appropriate places , but I have yet to see evidence of the green streetcred of green walls. They require power, watering, lots of plants, etc. - at least the ones commercially available. If people want an external green wall my simple solution would be to build a supporting structure adjacent to a supporting wall, but leaving a gap of say 30mm, then plant native ivy (which could be contract grown from native seed, by a bona fide supplier of British wild plants, in the ground at the bottom to climb up the supporting structure. This solution will require no watering and should be self-sustaining, providing the plants are established in good soil and there isn't a drought shortly after planting.

However this is a cheapskate idea and not likely to make a company any money. Ivy is great for nesting birds, provides autumn nectar for bees and other insects, and also provides vital shelter in the winter for wrens and other small birds. It is also the foodplant of the holly blue butterfly as well as other native insects. Note my stress on using genuine native stock (which can be easily grown from cuttings - so you could do this and save even more money). Most of the stuff that landscape architects plant is very far removed from our native version.]]>

Roof window solution for a living roof

drgibbo — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 00:33:17 +0000

I'm looking for affordable options that would tie in with a EPMD rubber finish to take a sedum/wild seed mix on a studio i'm building.
I don't really like the off the shelf flat roof kerb (too high) or the flat roof window solutions (not a great look)
has anyone experimented with fitting a standard centre pivot velux on a low-pitch green roof and perhaps created their own kerb?]]>

Tiling over UFH

felixfe — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 16:46:54 +0000

I wonder if anyone has any tips about the best way to bring a small bathroom floor with slate over a water based UFH system in screed level with the rest of the flooring in a house.

The screed has already been laid throughout the groundfloor, and on top of that there will be 2mm underlay and 16mm engineered oak everywhere except the bathroom.

Any suggestions for the best material to make up a discrepancy of around 10mm are very much appreciated! Not sure if I should be going for something that transfers heat very well or retains it very well.

The other options are to continue the wooden flooring into the bathroom (which I'm not inclined to do) or to increase the height of the screed (which I'm also not inclined to do unless it really is the only option).

Many thanks!]]>

Questions about warmcel/celulose

stephendv — Fri, 12 Feb 2010 10:01:07 +0000

Secondly, Warmcel seems to be OK to use in a cavity between 2 masonry walls - but on another product's page (Isofloc) they say that it's not suitable for a masonry cavity with no air gap:
http://isofloc.com/isofloc-l-light-weight-cellulose-insulation.phtml

Any ideas?]]>

AIMC4 - Fabric focused achievement of CSH4

ali.gill — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 14:21:38 +0000

Properties will be monitored by BRE in-use once the properties are sold.
http://www.aimc4.com/
http://www.aimc4.com/page.jsp?id=1

Scotland's AIMC4 homes on the way_Sept.2011
http://www.building4change.com/page.jsp?id=951]]>

opinions of worksurfaces.

ludite — Tue, 01 Jul 2008 15:52:44 +0100

aluclad windows

nr8861 — Thu, 21 Feb 2008 16:16:25 +0000

This is all new to me.

We are about to start the foundations on our new build timber frame and are looking at various window options. We were at the Self Build show at the weekend and saw aluclad windows and are quite interested in them.

Does anyone have these windows in their home or have any information on whether they are any good and if the internal wood is stained, whether it has yellowed or discoloured?]]>

Voltage optimisation

owlman — Mon, 22 Feb 2010 12:04:49 +0000

Mike]]>

Decentralised Sewage Treatment - Good or Bad Idea?

wastetech — Tue, 12 Jan 2010 12:26:35 +0000

DEWATS would mean that each house, or group of houses would have its own sewage treatment plant. The only effluent leaving every house would be clean water and the risk of major pollution incidents would be completely avoided.
DEWATS is being promoted all over the World - apart from the UK.
As much of the river pollution is caused by failing centralised sewage works and almost 80% of the cost of sewage works is in the pipework to transport it to a centralised location, is DEWATS a good or bad ideology?]]>

LED replacement light

suomi — Wed, 01 Oct 2008 20:03:50 +0100

But any way here is the question. My parents have now replaced all their normal lighting bulds with CFT (is that the right term ?), expect the ones in the bathroom and the stairs. Main problem is that the bulds need to be 100watts and need to come on straight away. The CFT's seem to take a couple of minutes to get to full brightness, and I have not seen any that are equal to 100W.

I was wondering if there is a direct LED replacement for the normal bernet type incandescent? the only one that I have seen so far was for 40W screw type for a 120V US system.

Thanks for any help.:bigsmile:]]>

Engineered rafters [I beams]- suppliers wanted please

Mike George — Tue, 02 Feb 2010 16:54:49 +0000

Thanks in advance]]>

The Baavet...

Ev — Sun, 24 Jan 2010 13:28:59 +0000

http://baavet.posterous.com/the-truth-about-the-baavet]]>