Green Building Forum - Building Regulations and Standards

Fire resistance

woodbutcher — Thu, 01 May 2014 11:30:43 +0100

Hi, i'm new around these parts and would like some info if anyone can help.

I'm building a conservatory which doesn't need building regs but is less than 1mt from the boundary. In these situations it is more important to achieve fire resistance than it is to meet the 50% glazing rule. I have built many conservatories in the past and the solution is usually to build a full height brick wall at the boundary side instead of windows.

The problem i have is that i wish to build the walls from single skin timber framing instead of brickwork/blockwork and was wondering if anyone can suggest a product i could use to achieve my aims. I would like to timber clad the conservatory, or possibly use composite cladding like Cedral, but this seems a bit of a waste of money on the boundary side, as it will not be seen. I've thought about baseboard and render, but that would mean getting in another trade, which i don't want to do.

Is there any kind of board out there that i can attach to a timber frame and just paint, that is fire resistant and doesn't cost a packet. Just spent over a year renovating my new house and money is getting extremely tight.

The inside i intend to use firecheck plasterboard. Any thoughts or ideas would be welcome.

SAP Appendix Q

calvinmiddle — Thu, 01 May 2014 11:21:57 +0100

I'm looking at MHRV for my new build and I'm seeing a few units being sold new on ebay.

How can I check that they are really SAP Appendix Q listed?

I've found this link on the forum - but it seems to redirect you to a new website and I can't for the life of me find where it has the list of approved units.

http://www.sap-appendixq.org.uk/search.jsp?parentID=1&categoryID=3

Can anyone help me find the list?

Is EWI permitted development when covering/replacing pebble dash?

Shevek — Mon, 05 Mar 2012 22:21:52 +0000

We're doing a rear extension and a loft conversion. In the process we're going to externally insulate and then render.

It's a mid-terrace house and the existing materials are brickwork and pebble dash, although our place is purely pebble dash.

Under condition A.3 (a) of permitted development it says
"the materials used in any exterior work (other than materials used in the construction of a conservatory) shall be of a similar appearance to those used in the construction of the exterior of the existing dwelling house"

Strictly speaking this kind of says to me it's not permitted development... although it could perhaps be argued that pebble dash and render are similar, particularly from a distance. Except, I guess, that I'm proposing our render to be off-white (as opposed to golden/brown colour it is now). In any case it's certainly not a listed building and there are examples around the neighbourhood where render has been introduced.

There's also the matter of the front wall getting pushed out 170 mm towards the highway by the insulation. Don't know where that fits into things. It will still be within the depth of the existing eaves.

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/100806_PDforhouseholders_TechnicalGuidance.pdf

Fireplace Hearth - Thermal Bridge

Jamster — Thu, 20 Mar 2014 17:27:45 +0000

So, we're having a wood burner in our new build, for better or for worse!

I'm looking at the detail for the constructional hearth; we have a massive (600mm or so) raft for ground stability reasons. Build up off that will be 150mm kingspan-type PU insulation with a thin, 50mm screed for UFH on top of that. The rest of the build is ICF; we'll obviously ensure continuity of insulation between the ICF and the PU.

Unfortunately, I can't quite decide if PU insulation is a non-combustible product in relation to the building regs around stoves / fireplaces / hearths which require 250mm thickness of cover. Obviously, we have plenty in the slab, but I want to maintain continuity of insulation where at all possible, including underneath the stove, even if we don't run any pipes there.

My plan B is to use a certified stove that will not raise the hearth above 100 C, but I'm not sure what this will do to our already limited by the need for an external air feed selection...

Any ideas or suggestions to insulating, non-combustible materials?

SVPs v AAVs

Ed Davies — Sat, 15 Mar 2014 16:36:35 +0000

East-west A-frame house, single story + loft. http://edavies.me.uk/2014/02/sketch-update/ Bathroom and kitchen adjacent near the middle of the south side (windows 2 and 3 in the picture counting from the nearest as 1) on the ground floor. Putting a soil vent pipe up the outside of the building would in theory be possible but would look odd and be a bit of pain so my house designer has sensibly specified â€œS.W.V.P. to be taken to roof vent terminalsâ€. Sewage goes to a treatment plant a few metres away.

Still, that's an additional bit of complication at ridge height and something of a cold bridge. Can I just have an internal SVP up into the loft above the bathroom and kitchen with an AAV there?

Scottish Building Regs seem to say, yes: http://www.scotland.gov.uk/resource/buildingstandards/2013Domestic/chunks/ch04s08.html#d5e8221

Span Tables (the 'Official Version')

Triassic — Fri, 14 Mar 2014 07:49:02 +0000

Where do I find the 'official' span tables, I've done a search on tinternet but I'm scratching my head as to which is the one I should be referencing on my plans for planning and building control purposes.

Sinks and electricity

jwd — Fri, 30 Aug 2013 14:23:48 +0100

I am planning on putting a sink in a workroom this week end and have just realised there is a switch for a fan on the wall near were I was going to put it in. How far does the sink have to be from the fan switch (its one of those with an integral fuse)? I am in Scotland if it makes any difference.

Cheers

Jw

Part-P 2013 Revision

Paul_B — Mon, 12 Aug 2013 16:25:54 +0100

Part P was revised for new installations after 6th April 2013. I believe that the list of notifiable installations has been reduced:

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_AD_P_2013.pdf

12.â€”(6A) A person intending to carry out building work in relation to which Part P of Schedule 1 imposes a requirement is required to give a building notice or deposit full
plans where the work consists ofâ€”
(a) the installation of a new circuit;
(b) the replacement of a consumer unit; or
(c) any addition or alteration to existing circuits in a special location.

Special location appears to be a room containing a bath or shower where the intended work is in a certain proximity to the taps

I'm assuming, therefore, based on the revision that extending a ring or spurring off a socket outside of a "special location" is now permissible on a DIY basis as it is not notifiable?

Conservatory conversions

tony — Sun, 26 Jan 2014 14:48:46 +0000

I just saw an outrageous conservatory conversion to a restaurant. Poorly insulated draughty and cold in the winter and too hot in the summer, now lined with 25mm polystyrene and timber t&g to make wc's and a bar!

Is this kind of jcircumnavigation of building regulations allowed?

Regulations or standards for a hut?

Wul — Sun, 12 Jan 2014 15:33:57 +0000

I'm building a small, shepherds style, hut which will go in my garden for my wife to do her crafts in. It will be insulated and have a small 3Kw wood buring stove and also an electric panel heater of 2Kw or less. It will also be on wheels (an old caravan chassis). My brother and one of my friends have said they may be interested in buying one from me and I'm thinking it could perhaps become a business one day. My brother may let his hut out to holiday makers as he lives in scenic countryside.
My concern is that of someone were buying or renting one of these huts and, god forbid, there was a fire or some other problem and someone got hurt, where I would stand as the hut's builder/ vendor? My response to this concern is to build the hut in line with existing regulations. The problem is I can't find any regulations or standards that seems relevant. I have heard of regulations around heating small, portable building but I think that's more to do with heat loss/ energy etc. than safety.

Can someone point me in the direction of any building regulations or standards or good practice which are for small, mobile buildings/huts? Or even confirm if such regulation exists?

Velux as escape windows and vertical mounting

Ed Davies — Thu, 05 Dec 2013 16:15:54 +0000

Velux do the traditional centre-pivot type and also top-hung windows. Two related questions:

1) In their brochure they list the sizes of the top-hung windows which are suitable for escape (450 mm high and wide and 0.33 mÂ² opening - same in England and Wales and in Scotland as far as I can see) but they don't list the same for any of the centre-pivot ones though obviously the larger ones can meet the requirements. Any ideas why? (other than maybe they want to sell the more expensive top-hung ones).

2) My design has six roof windows (it's an A-frame) and one gable-end vertical window. Am I mad to consider, for simplicity, just using Velux or the like for all seven windows? Top hung have a max angle of 75Â° so wouldn't be suitable for the gable but centre pivot are listed as suitable for 90Â°.

(The room with the gable window is the main bedroom which is the room furthest from the front door so it obviously needs a means of escape. It has two windows, one on the south roof slope and one to the east in the gable. The roof window could be the escape window but as currently designed has a solar thermal panel below it which would not be good so I'd assumed use of the gable window for escape.)

Minimum building size house conversion

renewablejohn — Wed, 27 Nov 2013 17:53:33 +0000

It appears our local council have dictated a minimum conversion size for a 1 bed flat of 55m2 plus a min ceiling height of 2.4 mtr. Is this typical throughout the country and how do old cottages cope with low ceilings.

Exposed glulam posts and beams - fire regulations

Ed Davies — Tue, 29 Oct 2013 15:47:00 +0000

Currently my house sketches have a fairly hefty post-and-beam structure exposed internally. (http://edavies.me.uk/2013/09/roof-rethink/) Further re-thinking makes me consider using glulam in this role - e.g., sketches of posts made up of 3 off 44 Ã— 225 mm in a sort of pi shape and beams of 2 off same in L and T form in different places.

Wondering, though, if that's likely to be a problem from the fire-exposure point of view, not having the depth to quietly char the way a solid beam would. Anybody know if it's likely going to be a problem or likely not, or do I have to dig into the building standards a bit deeper?

Single storey (+ loft), Scotland.

(BTW, seems to me that C16 is about Â£360/mÂ³ whereas the glulam supplier I got a price sheet from seems to work on Â£850/mÂ³.)

drainage connections

djh — Thu, 19 Sep 2013 19:50:54 +0100

Does anybody understand how drainage connections work? Not physically how the effluent flows but more how the money flows?

I've just discovered that in order for my contractor to make a connection to the drain in the road, I need to pay Highways Â£300 for the privilege of installing my 'apparatus' in the road and maintaining it indefinitely. But as I understand it, the water board adopt the drain once I've had it built. So why am I having to pay a fee for ongoing maintenance rights to highways?

Solar slab concrete specs

Novice1 — Mon, 09 Sep 2013 13:45:25 +0100

We are putting together a Solar Slab, similar to vikings suggestion. Will run excess heat from solar thermal through. We have yet to design / have designed the integrated system but hoped to plan for eventualities. The UFH pipe is spaced at 200mm on reinforcing mesh.
What concrete specification for 32m2 125mm deep solar slab with UFH pipes, should I be requesting. The concrete company will not suggest and the structural engineer has never worked with a solar slab before.
The BCO and structural engineer insisted on 1m deep footings to support the walls. I have dealt the the thermal bridge by using marmox block.
So the walls are supported and all I need is the type of concrete eg. Gen1, Gen2, non-shrinkable etc to do the slab which lies on 280mm EPS.
What concrete should I order?
Thanks

Pocketing in of g/f slabs

tony — Wed, 07 Aug 2013 17:01:49 +0100

Over the years I have occasionally done suspended rc slabs for extensions where the engineer and/or building inspector have asked for pocketing in of the slab into the existing building.

A friend of mine caught the idea and now runs his own business. He always pockets in and for tiled floors crossing between old and new finds that sitting the slab on the old wall foundations where the break through is don is the only way to avoid getting cracked tiles.

Recently a LA inspector has refused to accept this method saying that they want to allow movement of the non structural floor of the new extension and the original building.

comments please

Roofing advice to meet code

Jason Matthews — Mon, 19 Aug 2013 13:53:21 +0100

I am guessing many of you will be familiar with the www.naturalbuildingblog.com website?

Along with Dr Owen Geiger (I think he is something of a legend) we are looking at collaborating on a self build natural low impact house design but it needs to meet UK regs. It's very early days on this project. Eventually when the project has some legs I would like to see it open sourced for everyone to collaborate on it. The intention is to make it as easy and cheap to build as possible and for novices to do the as much of the work as possible.

This gives a brief overview: http://www.naturalbuildingblog.com/wiki-natural-house-proposal

I am not from a building background so I have several knowledge gaps! Owen is a asking me things that I simply cant answer so I hoping with the wealth of knowledge here I can get some answers. (Owen is from the USA so he is also not familiar with UK codes) The initial design idea is for a straw bale roundhouse, probably with a reciprocal roof, but the best way to do the roof is a puzzle. This is what he has said:

Making a green roof on a reciprocal roof is not my preference, however it avoids a lot of complexities as outlined below. Here's one alternative to show how things can quickly add up to a lot of work. Things become even more involved and expensive in order to meet code:
factory trusses? double pole roof to provide roof insulation: TJIs? Compression ring? Operable skylight for ventilation? Knee wall to support the upper TJI rafter? Ceiling material? Roof ventilation? Insulation type? Roof penetrations for pipes and wood stove? Purlins? (pallet wood?), Access to install the insulation? Blow in? Metal shingles? Are there affordable metal shingles in the UK?

http://www.showroom411.com/Media/DirectoryEntries/paradign%20shingles.jpg

Pallet shingles probably won't work on the roundhouse because each board would have to be tapered to conform to the curve. It seems like too much work and probably not accepted by code anyway. It would be good to hear from someone with firsthand experience on this. Right now it seems like metal shingles nailed on pallet wood or recycled wood purlins is the best approach. Again, we need to find out what the codes allow. In the US, you can't used recycled wood for structural members unless it's been specially inspected and graded by government approved inspectors. Of course, this wipes out any savings.

Thanks for reading, if you've managed to get this far on this long post.
Hope someone can help.

Jason

Building Regs for a garage

djh — Sun, 21 Jul 2013 17:28:49 +0100

We're planning to build a detached timber garage. It needed planning permission and we already have that. I also know that it needs building regulations (because of its size). What I'm concerned about is what the practical implications of it needing building regs are. I haven't been able to find a summary - all my searches return links about whether you need regs or not. So if anybody can point me to a summary, that would be useful.

My particular concerns are: what are the rules about timber outbuildings near boundaries? It's not a dwellinghouse, so which set of regs apply? What about electrical and other services?

garage foundations

djh — Sat, 25 May 2013 18:39:47 +0100

So our foundations are awkward since we have both clay and trees. It's a pain for the house but I understand the reasoning. But I'm having trouble understanding the garage. It is a detached garage and is over the size for permitted development, so we are subject to building regs. For foundations that seems to mean NHBC standard, and they don't make any difference between a house and a garage. Even if the garage is just basically a timber shed.

So we're looking at 2.5 m deep strip or trench foundations with a suspended concrete slab, or a raft with 1.25 m hardcore underneath it, or piles or .... Now that's an awful lot of concrete, muck away and money.

I'm sure that will give me a garage that doesn't move, but why should I care? Even more, since the drive outside it *will* move, why would I want a garage that doesn't? Can anybody point me to somewhere that explains the rationale for what appears to be idiocy? Or better yet, tell me how to avoid it.

What regs apply?

PaulJ — Sat, 18 May 2013 17:27:05 +0100

Could anyone let me know what part L regs apply to a conversion of an office, built approx 15 years ago, to resi? 2010 L1A seems to just focus on erection of new dwelling.

Visibility Splay Rules

John B — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 19:37:34 +0000

I've got an "interesting" situation that I can't go into at the moment, and I'm trying to make sense of the rules on visibility splays. The site is located on the edge of a hamlet in a rural area. The site is just inside a 40mph speed limit, and the road beyond is unrestricted. It's an unclassified road that is fairly busy for a rural road. Depending on the location of the potential entrance, there is a blind bend on the brow of a hill 60-150 metres further on in the 40mph limit, where at least one, and I think several, people have been killed. The site is approached on a straight downhill section where the local boy racers, and the more mature!, like to put their foot down, and are often way over the speed limit on the blind bend.

What I need to know, and haven't been able get clear by Googling, is what the rules are on visibility splays in this situation. I'd like to know for a single house, and also for a new housing estate that could be fitted on 1.5 or more acres. What are the actual rules, and what might be allowed in reality?

I need to know by Tuesday morning, so don't have time to talk to the local council etc, and I'd also like to have a better understanding before I approach them.

Code for Sustainable Homes compliant Energy Display Devices

harper16 — Mon, 08 Apr 2013 14:37:03 +0100

The Code for Sustainable Homes, allows credits to be awarded for correctly specified Energy Display Devices.

Does anyone know of any energy displays which are compliant with the code criteria below for electricity. Are there any smart meters with display which are available measuring electricity and gas, meeting the below criteria?

The citeria are as follows (taken from the DCLG Code Technical Guide Nov 2010):
This is a system comprising a self-charging sensor(s) fixed to the incoming mains supply/supplies, to measure and transmit energy consumption data to a visual display unit. As a minimum the visual display unit must be capable of displaying the following information:
â€¢ Local time
Current mains energy consumption (kilowatts and kilowatt hours)
â€¢ Current emissions (g/kg CO2)
â€¢ Current tariff
â€¢ Current cost (in pounds and pence). For pre-payment customers this should be â€˜real timeâ€™ data and for â€˜creditâ€™ paying customers cost should be displayed on a monthly basis
â€¢ Display accurate account balance information (amount in credit or debit)
â€¢ Visual presentation of data (i.e. non-numeric) to allow consumers to easily identify high and low level of usage
â€¢ Historical consumption data so that consumers can compare their current and previous usage in a meaningful way. This should include cumulative consumption data in any of the following forms day/week/month/billing period.:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:

hybrid roof (XPS)

Novice1 — Tue, 04 Sep 2012 12:59:33 +0100

In the interest of up-cycling and cost I have access to v. cheap 140mm Roofmate SL-A (Styrofoam XPS - usually used in inverted roofs). We have planned a hybrid mansard roof.

From outside
1. Tata courus uban seam (standing seam metal roof) onto
2. Breather membrane (tata does not specify a void as they want the metal roof fully supported by the 18mm ply)
3. 18mm ply,
4. 140mm Roofmate SL-A on
5. 9mm ply onto
6. 175x47mm rafters using silicone and screws All fixed with contersunk phillips head wood screws
7. VCL layer fiited from below. Edges taped and then secured/wedged in place in between rafters with tight fitting 140mm Roofmate SL-A
8. 12mm Plaster board secured with screws and possibly a bead of silicone to seal the holes where the plaster board screws puncture the VCL as they go into the rafters

This gives 280mm insulation in total and I'm assuming as the xps is denser than the EPS better sound abatment (we live near a busy road)

I have tried running this through Build desk U but I'm struggling either because of lack of talent or because it is such an unusual build-up, I'm stuggling to get the components from Build Desk U picking list. I have spoken to Dow technical department, who don't see problem in using a product intended for inverted roofs in a ply sandwich with a metal roof on top.. as long as VCL in place.

Questions
1. Will the VCL eliminate the condensation risk of replacing the EPS with XPS
2. Can I do without a void?
3. Is the VCL in the best position
4. In the breather membrane in the best position
5. How would you improve the build-up

6. Can I use the 140mm Roofmate SL-A as EWI onto a rendered blockwork cavity wall? As far as I know XPS is used as EWI on the continent.

All critic and advice welcome.
Cheers

Composite Door & Side Panel

OnTheEdgeOf — Tue, 12 Mar 2013 07:10:53 +0000

Hi. I had a new composite door & side panel fitted about 18 months ago. They both have less than 50% glazed areas. The installer is Certass registered but I've never received a certificate except for a 10 year insurance backed guarantee. Is this correct?? When I questioned it they said as it's less than 50% there was no requirement for one??

Rules and reality

Ed Davies — Sat, 02 Mar 2013 16:41:57 +0000

Reading through:

http://www.energysavingtrust.org.uk/Publications2/Housing-professionals/Refurbishment/Sheffield-EcoTerrace-A-refurbishment-case-study

one comes across:

â€œAlthough full details of the improvements to the Sheffield
EcoTerrace are contained in section 7 of this case study,
the implications of using a non SAP Appendix Q tested
technology should be considered. In this case, it would
have meant a drop of five SAP rating points (down to 87)
and one EPC band (down to band B). Additionally, the
dwellingâ€™s CO2 emissions would have increased by about
0.3 tonnes per year.â€

I can understand how having a non-tested MVHR system could affect the SAP and EPC ratings but not how lack of paper-work can increase emissions by 300 kg. After all, most of the â€œpaperworkâ€ is in reality probably electronic so causing emissions rather than sequestering carbon. And anyway, I doubt the paperwork involved contains the 81 kg of carbon needing to be sequestered to prevent that much COâ‚‚ emissions.

Yes, I am being deliberately silly. But still it annoys me when people muddle up the â€œscoresâ€ the bureaucrats give them with what effect they're actually having in the real world.

Just felt like venting a bit of irritation, that's all.

Passivhaus & exergy

djh — Thu, 21 Feb 2013 22:51:10 +0000

So the standard explanation of why the Passivhaus standard is set at the level that it is is that it eliminates the cost of the heat distribution system. But the standard heating mechanism is via a heat battery in the ventilation system and that requires heat at 50Â°C or so. Which we now accept is a bit higher than ideal for heat pumps and the like, and large area emitters at lower temperatures are more efficient. Plus we all consider adding in UFH and/or towel rads in bathrooms.

So does the economic argument for the particular spec chosen for Passivhaus really hold up in the light of these variations?

Is anybody aware of any published work on the economics of Passivhaus in the face of exergy?

Planning Applications and Existing Planning Conditions

calvinmiddle — Tue, 19 Feb 2013 10:57:03 +0000

Hi All

Got a friend having the run about by Westminster council, they are using an architect that they have a feeling is great at doing the drawings and technical side of things and hopeless at dealing with the council to get them planning.

Current issue is that they have applied for permission to bring a gas line up the front wall and into the house and an exhaust at the back, the architect has submitted a planning application and also listed build consent.

The architect then found a condition from 1965 prohibiting plumbing and pipes (other than rainwater pipes) to be fitted on the external faces of the building. So the architect has submitted an application to vary (I think to remove it) this condition.

The council has written back that they don't think the application is suitable as they have other applications on the go. So friend is now wondering if the architects know what they are doing or just doing things to generate fees.

Just wondering if they gain planning permission for the gas line and get listed building consent do they actually need to get the condition removed - or does the fact or getting the permission render the condition null and void?

Thanks

Water Regulations for recycled rainwater

tony — Thu, 14 Feb 2013 19:22:38 +0000

We are discussing over regulation on another thread I know

But there seems to be singular lack or regulations relating to the domestic use of recycled rain water.

I think that a regulation colour of pipe would be a good idea for a start. then there is labelling, and I'm sure they could turn it into a book.

water over-regulation

djh — Sun, 10 Feb 2013 21:45:43 +0000

So people here may remember that I'm not a fan of some aspects of the water regulations, but I just discovered a doozy.

Apparently, I'm not even allowed to apply for a connection to a water main until I have both a full plan of all the plumbing that I intend to install and the name of the plumber who is going to install it! Oh, and they also want full details of my health and safety plan.

Now neither the gas nor the electricity folks need any of this information from me before I can apply for a connection. What is it about water that makes it so much more dangerous than electricity or gas?

Why at this stage is it not acceptable to say "I swear I will comply with all relevant legislation" or words to that effect. Or just take it on trust as all the other utilities do?

There's something seriously wrong with the way the water industry is set up. It needs fixing.

On a more practical note, is there any way to apply for water at a reasonably early time in the development before all the detailed drawings are done and all the contractors lined up?

Alternatives to installing new fire doors when doing loft conversion

Shevek — Mon, 11 Feb 2013 14:10:45 +0000

This is a really handy document if you're doing a loft conversion and want to consider alternatives to replacing existing doors:

Best Practice note to support Building Regulation B1
Loft conversions in two storey houses
LABC MG003092011
http://www.peterborough.gov.uk/pdf/pb-bc-Loft%20Conversions.pdf

class of building and regs?

Carol hunter — Wed, 06 Feb 2013 14:10:54 +0000

Dear Chaps who know,

I would like to know what the different classes of building are and how the requirements for building regs relayes to the different clesses. I understand in relation to a "dwelling". What might a building dedicated to the practice of yoga/meditation/stress reduction be classed as if it has a large empty room with a small "flat" attached?
We already have pp for a dwelling and are looking at the possible choices availble for classification of building. We already live in a very small building so would look to this new building to provide occasional accomodation for guests/family and the large room would mainly be for a meditation space and some working from home (psychotherapy, mindfulness based work....QUIET!
It seems that building regs for a dwelling would be necessary even for a building used occasionally as accomodation, but how about the main large room? Advice most welcome and creative approaches to building regs/planning ammendment much appreciated.

Primary Energy factors in Passiv Haus?

Robur — Fri, 01 Feb 2013 11:28:27 +0000

Hej,

Can anyone tell me how Primary Energy if factored by Passiv Haus please? For example, lets say I have a building which is using the following fuels quantities per year - how does Passiv Haus work these back to Primary Energy?

Mains electricity - 50kWh/m2/year
Mains gas - 50kWh/m2/year
Wood pellets - 20kWh/m2/year

Clearly this totals 120 kWh/m2/year which is at the threshold of the Passiv Haus requirement for total energy demand but the Primary Energy demand will of course be more due to the reletive inefficiencies of the different fuel types?

Thanks for any pointers.

MVHR location of inlet and outlet in roof

borpin — Thu, 31 Jan 2013 05:50:39 +0000

Getting on with the first fix for the MVHR and I am getting to the point where I need to decide where the inlet and exhaust vents go in the roof. All I have from the supplier is that the extract should be higher than the inlet but no guidance on distance between them. The thread 'is wood wood' (or similar) has shown that how air travels around the outside of a building is not straightforward and what I don't need is feedback.

So are there any design rules of thumb?

I also need to site a gas boiler flue nearby. Question again is how near? Have the regulators caught up with this issue for MVHR? My suspicion is that they have not!

Old folks home and day centre temperatures

tony — Wed, 23 Jan 2013 20:38:15 +0000

What temperature should a day centre for the elderly be?

My local one is 27C !!! I gently suggested may be saving 30% on heating bill and going for 24c might be a better idea.

Ideal Temperature is?

'New house-building methods are unsafe'

Timber — Mon, 21 Jan 2013 10:17:40 +0000

http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/politics/new-housebuilding-methods-are-unsafe-mps-told-8449391.html

Timber frame, EPS EWI, other flammable insulation materials etc... are we really building unsafe houses or do perceptions need changing over risk and value of houses?

Is it scaremongering from industry parties with a vested intrest? Genuine concern for public saftey?

Any thoughts?

Gas Appliance Installation

Charli — Sat, 12 Jan 2013 23:13:11 +0000

I do glass work, as in for a hobby I use a small blowtorch to melt and shape hot glass. I have recently purchased a new house, with a spare room to use as my 'craft room'. I would like to run a gas pipe from downstairs (where the gas meter is), to the room directly above (craft room), to use in my torch, with appropriate isolators and with a reducing fitting on the end of the fixed line to enable me to attach a flexible hose that goes to the blowtorch (its a special hose with stainless-steel braid on so the glass can't melt it). The house insurance is all fine with this providing I don't sell what I make, and that I have the gas line installed by a gas-safe engineer. I can't find a gas safe engineer willing to fit me a gas line.
a) they won't fit them into a bedroom. Though I'm not using the room as a bedroom, have no children/pets/goblins that will live in that room, and will remove the entire gas line if I ever move/repurpose the room.
b) they won't leave an open-ended gas line, my flexible hose being classed as open-ended.
c) or they will only let me use a flexible cooking-hose on the end, which doesn't fit my torch.. and I could melt through as it isn't armoured..

Anything I can say/do/point out to them? Other than get a new hobby?
(Ps: I'm in England, Midlands)

Thanks,
Charli

is this house too tight

bentheball — Fri, 11 Jan 2013 15:22:35 +0000

Hi all,
Looking for some advice/feedback on the following situation.
I've just air tested a house where we achieved a result of 3.18 @ q50.
Not bad you might say but the target value was only 6 and the house has NOT been fitted with any mechanical ventilation system. It is fitted with standard trickle vents etc.
The building code in Scotland basically says that any house that achieves a result of less than 5 @ q50 should be fitted with a mechanical ventilation system or similar.
I haven't spoken with BC yet but I'm wondering if there is any other guidance out there on air tightness and when additional ventilation is required. The ACH rate @ 50PA is 4.226. Do you think a MV is really required with this result??
Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Ben

Insulating a warm (hybrid) pitched roof.

Jimbo7 — Fri, 03 Feb 2012 11:38:37 +0000

We're just at the stage of spacing out the roof trusses on our extension/refurb project. The roof is being completely replaced and we'll be using the loft for habitable space. Internal height is marginal, so we'd really rather not put any insulation below the rafters.

So we have 172mm of rafter depth in which to insulate, and could manage about 25mm over the top before ridge height becomes an issue. The plan was for 150mm of rigid foam between, flush with the top of the rafters, 25mm over the top, followed by counter battens, breathable membrane (draped between battens for drainage), tile battens and then a mixture of reused and new concrete tiles. Below the 150mm foam would be a small void, taped and sealed vapour control layer, and/or 12.5mm foil backed plasterboard.

However, the BCO is pushing back on this, and the insulation companies aren't helping. They're all saying that between and over needs to have at least the same depth over the rafters as in between. None of them can explain why though.

It's stupid and irritating because several of the insulation companies have between & over examples in their product brochures with relatively thin "over" components. (eg. Xtratherm and Quinn both do).

I'm assuming the reason they're not keen is interstitial condensation risk. I've downloaded the BuildDesk demo, and it doesn't seem to have a problem with the method we were planning to use, and reckons we'd have a U-value of 0.14W/m2K. (We specified a maximum of 0.16W/m2K, so we'd be pretty happy with that)

Has anyone here built a roof with similar construction and method of insulation? Any opinions on whether the proposed method is sensible?

Jim

Design of accessible and adaptable general needs housing â€“ Code of practice

djh — Thu, 11 Oct 2012 16:55:36 +0100

There's a draft British Standard up for review:
"BS 9266 : Design of accessible and adaptable general needs housing â€“ Code of practice"

http://drafts.bsigroup.com/Home/Toc/46922

It's a mash-up of other stuff for the most part but does contain some of its own nonsense so do pop along and make your comments.

planning near a listed building

djh — Thu, 20 Sep 2012 12:06:24 +0100

What differences to planning does being next to a listed building make? That is, if you make a planning application for a site that is next to a listed building, are there any differences in the rules from an application for a 'regular' plot. Neither property is in a conservation area. What is the status of opinions about impact on the setting of the listed building?

I'm aware of the need for PP on the boundary treatment.

BTW, this is not a problem, I hope, just me wanting to understand where I stand. I think this has been mentioned before on this forum but I can't find it here or elsewhere, so perhaps somebody can remember. It appears to be an awkward question to google!

Can you use a Building Notice for non domestic window replacement?

Nick Parsons — Fri, 21 Sep 2012 20:53:41 +0100

A job I am working on includes the replacement of one window in a non-domestic building. I had intended to use a Building Notice (FENSA being applicable only to domestic properties) but my council web-site (Sheffield) seems to suggest (but does not overtly state) that Bldg Notice is for domestic only. A quick Google only serves to cast more doubt! Can anyone help. A Full Plans app seems way OTT for a window! (What plans - a drawing of the opening, a pic of the old one and ditto of the new one, with regard being given to means of escape, and a statement of the glazing spec.?)

Any recent experience of this?

Nick

Earthen floor

BigJ — Tue, 21 Aug 2012 23:03:50 +0100

Hi all, I've just started a timber frame strawbale extension to my house and had originally specified a cob floor. I took the specification for a limecrete floor- i.e LECA subfloor to provide insulation and to prevent water ingress, with 100mm cob sub floor and 25mm fine cob finish. The building inspector has taken a distinct dislike to the lack of a DPM. I've now had the calcs. done by Ty Mawr for their limecrete floor system, which, as it has building regs approval, will satisfy (probably) my inspector, however it is only for the whole system i.e including the limecrete, which i don't really want. So i was wondering if anyone has any experience of earthen floors/building regs. Even though the finished floor level will be above the outside ground level, having seen how wet the hole i've made is (i had to pump out foundations last weekend- the joys of this so called summer in north cumbria!) i was wondering if it would be ok/better to use a DPM- i know this will stop the floor's breathability but will it CAUSE problems? and if i do so there isn't really any point staying with the LECA, is there any alternative 'green' underfloor insulation?
I need to build up the ground any way to maintain the floor level throughout the house, so my tentative thoughts at this stage are (working from ground level up):Compacted subsoil;DPM; drainage gravel (to stop any potential build up of moisture against clay and to build upthe floor height); insulation; ; cob layer; finishing layer.
Any better ideas, thoughts, comments, experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Passive house door details

thornewyness — Thu, 05 Jul 2012 13:07:13 +0100

Hello

I am thinking of incorporating a passive house detail for MVHR extract using a transfer gap behind the architrave at the head of the door. Will this work for fire regs with an expanding fire seal, or will intumescent seals hamper the ventilation required? Has anyone any experience?

Complete Picture Free SAP software - anyone using it?

Nick Parsons — Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:04:46 +0000

No, this is not an advert!

Has anyone tried to use this? I admit to being utterly ineept at computer-based things, but having downloaded the software I cannot make it do anything, and my brain is not programmed to receivee the instructions. If anyone has used it, could I perhaps pick your brain? Alternatively, what's another easy-to-use free version?

Many thanks.

Nick

Advice On Part J By Newbie

Mikeee5 — Tue, 03 Jul 2012 16:44:09 +0100

Can anyone provide advice on Diagram 17 section D of Part J (Flue outlet for solid fuel appliances) please?

My neighbours have had a DEFRA exempt wood stove fitted in January of this year and we have been experiencing problems with smoke in and around our property on a regular basis. We live in a semi detached bungalow and the flue vents through a shared chimney stack in the middle of the property (one stack 2 vents). I have been reading some of the threads on the forum and someone has stated that the flue should be 2300mm from any adjoining or adjacent buildings as per part J. Our properties are approximately 56 years old and my neighbours had a gas fire fitted in their property previous to installing the stove. I have approached my neighbours about the smoke problem and they have said they have done everything to comply and are not prepared to make any changes to their installation or their choice of fuel.

Any advice would be very much appreciated.

Mikeee

Passivhaus â€œprimary energy demandâ€

Ed Davies — Fri, 29 Jun 2012 19:51:38 +0100

The Passivhaus standard refers to primary energy demand being less than 120 kWh/(mÂ²Â·a).

Do they actually mean â€œprimary energy demandâ€ in the sense it's usually used in economics and so on: the energy contained in the originating fossil fuel or whatever so if you use 4 kWh of electricity generated by a plant which is 40% efficient that counts as 10 kWh? Or do they mean energy delivered to the house via the various pipes and wires in the street?

Future Proofing

tony — Thu, 28 Jun 2012 08:59:17 +0100

I have been thinking about how we could future proof our new buildings

Came up with this simple idea -- all roofs must have 250mm eaves and gable overhangs that do not cross the boundary.

Reason so that external insulation can be added when it is needed at a later date.

Advice on planning

dilangar — Thu, 21 Jun 2012 00:10:05 +0100

We looking at erecting a barn on existing footings, brick pad stones. The existing building has long gone but itÂ Â is marked on a old map. This building used to service the old brick kilns. My question is would we be able to erect on permitted development and if so how would we approach the planning bods? The new build is for forestry works/workshop and we are within the national park.We just like to have more info before we approach planning. Many thanks

Sprinklers in all Welsh Homes from 2013

pmusgrove — Fri, 01 Jun 2012 11:25:19 +0100

Watch out - more expense coming to new and refurbished homes.

"The Welsh Environment Minister, John Griffiths, has announced plans for all new and converted residential properties in Wales to be fitted with sprinkler systems.

Regulations for this will be introduced in September 2013. This will save a predicted 36 lives and prevent an estimated 800 injuries between 2013 and 2022.

He also announced publication of the results of a cost benefit analysis by BRE Global into the proposal. The report has been published on the Welsh Government website. It concludes that the introduction of sprinklers will reduce the risk of death and injuries and damage to property.

The Minister said: "We must seek to prevent avoidable death and injury from house fires and need to accept that there is a cost to introducing sprinklers into new properties.

"These proposals are significant and important in taking forward fire safety. Wales will be at the forefront of reducing fire risk and cutting the number of avoidable deaths and injuries caused by fires in residential premises."

Work is due to begin on the development of regulations and the technical requirements necessary to introduce the Measure which will be subject to public consultation."

All very good and I fit sprinklers in care homes and otehr flats where people with restricted mobility might live but at about Â£2-3k per individal home I wonder whether this extra cost is justified? The other problem will be the availabilty of the required flow rate and pressure from the mains but I guess all that will come out in the consultation.

New Planning Regs

Triassic — Wed, 28 Mar 2012 08:29:39 +0100

I've read a number of news items which suggest that approval for a new build "sustainable" home on brownfield sites should be a lot easier following the introduction of the new Planning Regs.

So here is what I've got in mind -

I've seen a brownfield site (part of a long defunct quarry) in a very lovely rural location. Previously there would not be a hope in hell of getting planning approval for the site because of its location within an area of outstanding natural beauty. Because its 'brownfield' all I need to do is design a "sustainable" home for the site and approval will follow!

Am I correct in my assumption?