Tue, 19 Dec 2023 06:05:02 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17475 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17475 Tue, 24 May 2022 08:48:27 +0100 Barnacle
I just wonder if I hang on for a year or 2 when more companies are doing ASHP retrofits how much will prices drop? The current quotes seem pricey to me - but maybe I'm being mean.

Thoughts and experience please :bigsmile:

* initial quotes - without doing full heat loss calculations to see if I'm prepared for the level of expense. The companies all said it takes about a day for them to carry out the full heat loss calculations.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17471 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17471 Tue, 17 May 2022 07:36:40 +0100 tony
What temperature should a lounge be , during the day? During the evening, During the night, during the morning?

Ditto other areas?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17447 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17447 Wed, 13 Apr 2022 09:45:48 +0100 Shevek - 1 bathroom with bath/shower, 1x washing machine, 1x dishwasher (we'll occasionally have all running at once in the evening, including 2x showers)
- currently just the 2 of us, but plan to have visitors often and it may well get rented to 4 person family
- Considering the Aquapura Monobloc: https://www.energie.pt/en/products/aquapura-monobloc

The question is 114 lire (maybe too small) vs 195 litre (maybe too big)? (120 model vs 200ix model)

Is it true to say that we'll mostly only pay for the water that we use rather than what we store, so therefore it's better to slightly oversize than to slightly undersize, so we don't risk running out?

The 120 also has a COP of 2.8 while the 200ix has a COP of 3.72. What does this mean in the context of sizing?

(some additional context: had a quote to get the 200i installed for €2600, and we should be able to get 85% of this back through EU funded programme here in Portugal for energy efficiency upgrades)]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17361 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17361 Tue, 18 Jan 2022 10:59:04 +0000 CX23882
As much as I'd love to retrofit UFH, there isn't sufficient depth available, which leaves radiators, and there are two main options:
1) Traditional trunk running through the loft, coming down the walls to radiators, each with TRVs.
2) Centrally-located manifold with electric actuators, controlled by remote thermostats in rooms. No TRVs on radiators.

In both cases, any in-room pipes would be surface-mounted and boxed in, vertical drops behind MDF boxing in the corner of the rooms, horizontal runs behind skirting.

Is a manifold/actuator-type system overkill in a small property (approx 100m^2, single-storey)? The thing I like about it is:
1) each thermostat will be away from the radiator, so gives a more accurate room temperature.
2) multiple radiators in a room can be controlled together.
3) when the room doesn't require heat, the relevant pipes won't be circulating and thus wasting energy.
4) the potentially noisy moving part is in the utility room or loft, rather than on the radiator as with TRVs.

Biggest downside I see is that there is more pipe (and hence water to heat, when all rooms are calling for heat) overall, since each radiator gets a dedicated feed and return pipe.

With a manifold system, you could potentially run PEX all the way from the manifold directly to a radiator, without any joins. I don't see how that approach could work in a retrofit with solid floors and walls, because of the minimum bend radius of the PEX. A 10cm radius is already the height of skirting boards. It seems the logical approach is to use copper below the radiators for the last leg (or maybe down the walls too). By that stage, you may as well swallow the cost to run copper through the loft too and solder the entire lot.

Other than the leaking and inefficiency of one-pipe, the existing system was very loud with expansion noises (mainly the pipes themselves expanding in the screed), so the replacement system needs to be as quiet as possible. The best way to do this seems to be to lag all pipes, and tie-down over the lagging, rather than by clamping directly to the pipes. I'm concerned about how noise-reduction fits in with air-tightness through ceiling penetrations. One option is to accept a bit of extra bulk in the pipes running down the wall, and wrap them with some thin Armaflex sleeve/lagging as they pass through the ceiling (as they will be with the thicker insulation in the loft itself), and re-seal the hole up to the lagging.

Any advice/input greatly appreciated.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17442 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17442 Sat, 09 Apr 2022 11:51:41 +0100 minisaurus I wondered if anyone would like to help me check my calculations?

We have an ASHP that runs 24/7 at 45 litres per second. The average yearly outdoor temp for where we live is 8 degrees C. We like to have a room temperature of 21 degrees C.

When in my (swedish) college, to calculate the energy requirement to heat intake air, we used this formula

P [kW] = q [m3/s] x R [kg/m3] x delta T [degrees C]

where:

R = 1.2
delta T = indoor temp - average outdoor temp

We'd then multiply the result by 8766 hours to get the (approximate) yearly requirement in kWh.

So for my house, that would give:

P = 0.045 x 1.2 x (21 - 8)
= 0.702 kW

0.702 kW x 8766 hours = 6154 kWh.

Sounds reasonable?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17432 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17432 Wed, 30 Mar 2022 22:45:52 +0100 neelpeel
I currently have an oil combi-based central heating system and a small wood burner that can pump out a fair heat (practically heats the house with the doors open). As you may have spotted in my other thread I am considering installing an ASHP to reduce my reliance on both - mainly to reduce my 'carbon footprint' and I suppose hopefully reduce long term costs.
I thought I'd work out some rough calculations for each. I estimate my heating need as 14,000kWh/year.
(CO2e estimates from https://www.carbonfootprint.com/calculator.aspx)

Heating Oil
14,000kWh = 1,353L I think I then need to assume 90% efficiency, so about 1,500L
1,500L = 3.8Te CO2e/year
Assuming £0.60/L long term ave = £900/year

Wood Burner
14,000kWh = 3.33Te dry stacked hardwood = roughly 7.9m3
3.33Te = 0.24Te CO2e/year
8m3 dried hardwood logs locally = £950/year

A/A ASHP
14,000kWh output at an average COP of 2.5 (??) = 5,600kWh electricity input
5,600kWh = 1.29Te CO2e/year
Assuming £0.22/kWh long term ave = £1,230/year

So regards CO2e there are massive differences and wood burner is top of the pops.
Here I should note that I have no close neighbours, the nearest village is 3 miles away and the nearest town is 7 miles away so my assumption is that small particle air pollution is not really a concern for my woodburner (correct me if I'm wrong!)

And regards cost...not much in it, but possibly not looking worth the cost of installing an ASHP - if I can be bothered to feed the wood burner like a demon possessed.

What am I missing??]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17428 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17428 Thu, 24 Mar 2022 10:25:36 +0000 neelpeel Space to heat will be 90m^2 total and about 210m^3 volume once extended.
The ASHP will be supplemental heat to reduce the use of our oil burner and wood burner as much as possible.
I'm in Aberdeenshire, so temps often hover around 0 - 5degC in deep winter, but anything near freezing and I would be expecting to put the wood burner on anyway.

Which Air-Air Heat Pump brands/models should I be looking at?
How noisy are the pumps? Are they suitable for a living space?
What is the life expectancy of the latest pumps? (I often hear disaster stories about multi-room ASHPs going wrong and no available bits to fix)
Any experiences (good or bad) to share?

Looking at one model as an example - Daikin Perfera FTXM20R
Nominal heating = 2.5kW (does this mean 7.5kW equivalent at a COP of 3?)
Seasonal Efficiency SCOP = 5.10 (how this equate to a COP at 0 degC, 5degC, 10degC??)
Are manufacturers not obliged to show charts of COP vs temperature?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16567 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16567 Thu, 21 May 2020 19:13:38 +0100 DamonHD
The aim is to be able to selectively draw some space heat from electricity when its carbon intensity is less than that of using gas directly. No storage. No HP.

It's meant to be cheap and simple. (Combi is a Potterton Performa 24 FWIW.)

Rgds

Damon]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15257 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15257 Fri, 25 Aug 2017 15:50:16 +0100 geoheated
I am installing my 6kW Heat Pump next month. Over the winter i renovated the entire house, Insulated, installed underfloor heating on both floors in all rooms with 116mm pipe spacing.

I have purchased the heat pump and just need to dig the loops in the field.

Location:
At the bottom of the field, 50m from the house, its a valley with a steam running through it. During the summer it dries up typically.
I will run straight pipes parallel with the stream, digging 1.5m deep i can get down to below stream level.
Its the end of August now, we have had a damp august, stream is dry, but when i dig to 1.5m its wet clay going into sand at the bottom of the trench. See photos. (IMG_3334 is after 48 hours) plenty of water in the ground all year i suspect.

I purchased a report from the British geological survey. They confirmed we are on sandstone with a thermal conductivity of 2.59W/m.K.
I spoke to them, as this is the bedrock figure and we wont hit that, they suggested 2.5W/m.K. as i have just hit unconsolidated sand.

Looking at the MCS lookup tables, wet sand is 2.4W/m.K.. So i have gone with that figure.
Average ground temp at 1m is 11.6c from their report.
I measured the ground at 1.5m immediately the excavator dug it and it is currently 16.3C in August.

Sizing
I plan to install enough to satisfy the house demand when we hopefully extend in a couple of years! This would mean upgrading to a 8-9kW heat pump. I have run calcs for both initial and proposed sizes. I intend to install enough pipe now to satisfy the larger pump.

I have a old 3Ton Kubota i plan to spend a few days sitting on to do this work!

Pipe will be PE100 32mm.
I dont plan to blind with sand. There is 0% rock in the ground and at 1.5m i am into sand.

The MCS tables only reference 25mm pipe. Using 32mm i expect a slight increase in thermal absorption ,but i wont attempt to factor that into the design

My Question Is:

The tables talk about 750mm pipe spacing.

I plan to dig a 400mm wide trench (its the bucket i have). At 400mm it seems reasonable to lay 2 pipes in the trench at 400mm centres.

MCS calculations and table suggest 182m of pipe for my 6kW.
Then 335m when i upgrade to 9kW.

Would it seem unreasonable to lay 400m of pipe in 2x 200m trench, pipes spaced at 400mm in the trenches, with 1.5m between trenches. With the plan to be well oversized initially, and suitable for when i put the bigger pump in.

I read somewhere that 300mm is good practice to avoid thermal interference between pipes.
But as MCS tables reference 750mm, does my extra 65m (20%) cover the fact im 400mm centres.....?

Initial Dig Conditions. Clay into Sand(Grey).
https://postimg.org/image/epei37y3n/

Ground Temp measurement during dig.
https://postimg.org/image/93s2z5xer/

After 48 Hours.
https://postimg.org/image/f5zppnlur/

Sizing calcs for current 6kW HP.
https://postimg.org/image/6p07eqh5v/

Future 8kW HP Calcs.
https://postimg.org/image/f9y4jngpv/

Location.
https://postimg.org/image/ebhrhd3dv/]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16907 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16907 Mon, 25 Jan 2021 18:41:45 +0000 greenfinger
Sorry to be hogging this sub-forum!

I'll be having a 6kW wood stove installed soon. It's an old house, so we get the first 5kW for free and only need to provide air for the remaining 1kW. From what I've read, this needs to be 23mm x 23mm for square, or 26mm diameter if round. We don't want any large grill faces or anything like that. Would prefer it to be visually as unnoticeable as possible. Can't do anything with the window, as that's being replaced in the future.

So...

- Would it be best to do one hole to spec, or several little holes?
- Can anyone work out what size the little holes would need to be if doing a few? Or is that as simple as dividing 26 by the number of holes?
- My installer said it would be enough to just have the holes lined... Any ideas what's best to use?
- How to make the holes rodent mouse proof?

Also, I've read several times how random the nominal rating of stoves is... How 5kW stoves can be largely different in physical size, have different sized fire boxes and therefore different fuel loading capacities, have different ranges (the Arada Ecoburn is rated 1.5 - 9Kw, whereas the Clearview Pioneer is rated 1kW - 5kW)), and yet all be rated as nominal 5kW. And on top of that, how the testing of stoves is very artificial and easily manipulated to reach a desired rating. With all that in mind - and forgetting HETAS, regs, etc for a moment - how much real life need is there for an air vent with a 6kW stove installed? For the record, the stove is a Woodwarm Fireview 6kW (5.8kW nominal to be precise).

Many thanks

(PS - We'd love to have a direct air feed but for several reasons it's just not possible.)]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17383 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17383 Wed, 09 Feb 2022 08:46:14 +0000 Dur
Apologies, as ever, if this has been covered before but I can't find anything much.

As part of an extensive renovation, we are wanting to fit an ASHP but we have fairly feeble water pressure/flow and so have a 100 gallon header tank in the loft currently feeding a traditional vented copper hot water tank with 22mm pipes on the main runs all in as new condition. So while not much else in the house works as yet, we do have a decent shower and wouldn't be happy with a shower at mains flow/pressure.

Our potential supplier /installer would like to fit a 300 litre high gain unvented tank which I think is a pretty standard approach. He has looked to see if there is a vented equivalent but to no avail.

So I am hoping for some help on potential options that maintain the efficiency of the purpose made unvented tanks but give us the advantages of the old fashioned system ie good flow and the ability to have two showers running and no dip in flow if someone fills the kettle.

I guess we could have a pumped pressure set using the loft tanks as break tank/ reservoir but that is more hardware and complication (and we lose water in a powercut).

Are there any other approaches we can look at?

Thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17348 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17348 Tue, 11 Jan 2022 17:07:25 +0000 Tomasz_P My plumber installed a 6kW Grant unit. The makeup of the ground floor is roughly 100sqm limecrete with 2-300mm foamed glass under that. Walls are mostly 60mm woodfibre with lime on 5-600mm brick walls. All windows are currently single glazed and I still have some draft proofing to do around the front door.
It has now been running constantly for a month and has only managed to get up to around 18-19C room temp but more like 16-17 on the coldest days. I was concerned before it was installed that we should have gone for the 10kW but he was sure it would be enough. I will be installing wood burners for the colder months as I have a good supply of my own wood but I would prefer if it could cope on its own if needed. How does this sound to those with experience? I I guess I should do some of my own calcs. Is there a site where you can input data to do this fairly quickly?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17354 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17354 Fri, 14 Jan 2022 19:19:01 +0000 Nick Parsons
Cheers,

Nick]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17335 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17335 Wed, 22 Dec 2021 16:05:47 +0000 greenfinger
I'm not finding anything beyond 650C after an initial search. Does anyone know if higher temp paints are available? It's for internal parts, not the stove body.

If 650C is as good as it gets, is this suitable? It's not specifically for stoves, but...

https://www.toolstation.com/high-temperature-spray-paint-500ml/p64927

Cheers]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17265 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17265 Sun, 31 Oct 2021 16:41:50 +0000 alant The above would require a separate store / tank for the stove input. I guess a simpler solution would be be 1 thermal store with immersion heater for summer use and fed by stove boiler in winter time?
Any other possibilities?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17255 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17255 Thu, 28 Oct 2021 10:25:34 +0100 wholaa
"Your correspondents are too gloomy about heat pumps for houses and flats (Letters, 20 October). Heat pumps may be unusual in Britain, but they are a major industry and very widespread in Europe and elsewhere. They are used in Canada, where outside temperatures drop very low. Individual units may not be suitable for high-rise blocks – although they might be installed on balconies. But high-rise buildings make up a small fraction of the housing stock, and blocks can have communal heating and cooling with large centralised heat pumps.

Older heat pumps were noisy, but new makes are on the market that are much quieter. *It is not true, except in the worst cases, that installing heat pumps requires dwellings to be insulated first. The great majority of houses and flats in the UK are already reasonably insulated,* and heat pumps can be run for longer and at lower temperatures than gas boilers. *Better insulation of existing gas-heated houses and flats will by itself only produce modest cuts in carbon emissions*. To meet climate goals, we have to stop using gas.

And, by the way, hydrogen as a domestic fuel – being pressed hard by the gas companies – is a distraction. It has to be made either from natural gas, which produces CO2 and can also release methane, a much more powerful greenhouse gas. Or it can be made with electricity, by the electrolysis of water. But why would one not in that case supply the electricity direct to houses, for resistance heating, or for powering heat pumps?
Philip Steadman
UCL Energy Institute"

Isnt his statement dubious? Is the average UK house already suitable for heat pumps? Personally, I would be concerned if gov policy was inspired by such a statement. He might be right that UK houses have reasonable insulation but they need far better airtightness to make heat pumps sensible. Roger Brisby has a video where he predicts a lot of people will be misold heat pumps and it seems a reasonable prediction.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17260 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17260 Fri, 29 Oct 2021 10:54:54 +0100 WeeBeastie
I understand direct electric heating can be frowned upon here, but I am in a situation where I need it for perhaps a few heating seasons due to staging of works.

Calculators tell me:
1.2kW for a living room
1.2kw for bedroom 1
1.0kW for bedroom 2

My priorities are heaters which are quiet, have integral timer + thermostat (I don't need or want Wifi or smartphone control) and at the cheaper end of the price range. Wall mounted, not portable. I'm not too fussed about the warm-up time or 'feel' of the heat. Ideally not too ugly! So something fairly basic.

Any suggestions? There are some inexpensive panel/convector heaters out there (e.g.Mylex, Stiebel Eltron) - are these fine?

Thanks.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17259 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17259 Fri, 29 Oct 2021 10:40:41 +0100 luz13827
I think often people don't put UFH under cabinets because it could be a waste of energy in those areas, but is there any risk to the cabinets themselves? Or any appliances we should not have UFH below, e.g. the fridge/freezer?

The reason why I am considering having the UFH below, is that the kitchen cabinets will partly back onto an external wall, and so I think UFH would make sense as otherwise that wall would could potentially not get as warm, and could then lead to condensation behind the kitchen units, that we can't see. Does that make sense? We are of course doing everything possible to manage humidity in the home to limit the chance of this in the first place, but I'm thinking worst case scenario, if RH did rise. We have had mould issues in the past, so trying to avoid that at all costs.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17235 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17235 Mon, 11 Oct 2021 20:45:45 +0100 nbishara
Also refrigerated insulated pipes on outside of house…to the tank…bit surprised by this?
Thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17229 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17229 Sat, 09 Oct 2021 12:44:50 +0100 greenfinger
A bit of background: I live in the Brecon Beacons surrounded by a lot of trees and a stream, all of which I presume lends to the high relative humidity (RH) in my house. It often sits in the 70% region and sometimes even creeps above 80%. In times of high RH, opening the window is counter productive and causes it to rise. We use a dehumidifier when it's at its worse.

We have a wood burner in one room, which does not have a direct (external) air feed. It's not been in long, but it does do a good job of reducing the RH. We'll soon be installing a further two wood stoves. I totally see the sense in direct air in as much as it will minimise drafts, and negate the need for a vent which would let copious amounts of cold air into the house...

But when it comes to humidity I can't get my head around it. No direct air to the stove means more air changes and air circulation in the house (I think?), which could be looked upon as a good thing. But then again, it also means more air coming from outside, where the humidity is higher, so perhaps it isn't such a good thing. And maybe that's all too basic a way too look at it anyhow.

I wondered if anyone out there has a better understanding of the science behind this and could explain which option is best and why, when it comes to humidity?

Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16744 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16744 Mon, 05 Oct 2020 21:12:19 +0100 topher
I need about 15 kW output and ideally 70 degrees for rads and hot water, from a single phase supply. At this early stage I am thinking that I remove the existing gas boiler and put the ASHP in its place. I have an Evohome controller which I hope I can continue to use.

These are my questions. . . .
1. Who are the best manufacturers to look at?
I have found a Daikin product can provide 70 degrees water output
2. Where can I find a list of experienced installers?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17167 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17167 Tue, 24 Aug 2021 09:29:59 +0100 greenfinger
I'm in the market for a couple of wood stoves (or multi fuel, but no plans to burn anything other than wood). I'm very drawn to Dowling Stoves, but there aren't a great many reviews out there. And obviously they do things a bit differently than most stoves you see from the better known names.

So I wondered if anyone here has one if they'd be happy to share their experiences? Or for that matter, even if you don't have one but have thoughts about them it would be great to hear fro you...

Many thanks


https://dowlingstoves.com/]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17214 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17214 Wed, 29 Sep 2021 13:47:51 +0100 gravelld
Does anyone have any recommendations of a heat pump installer covering the East Midlands - Leicestershire specifically?

Navitron are no longer in the market btw.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17211 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17211 Tue, 28 Sep 2021 17:19:10 +0100 GarethC
My question is, does there exist high output (say 5kW minimum) fan convector radiators? Ones that work at low flow temps (40 to 50 degrees) for use with heat pumps, and that have roughly similar dimensions to large conventional double panel, double convector radiators (so say 1.4-1.6m length, 0.5-0.75m height)?

If not, why not? I only seem to be able to find quite small units with outputs of up to 3.5kW. I don't understand why ones with greater surface area, and therefore higher output, don't seem to exist. If they did exist, they would surely represent a cheaper and less disruptive emitter option than under floor heating.

Would greatly appreciate thoughts on this. I'm probably missing something obvious and someone will be along with a link to a 10kW fan convector directly...]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17208 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17208 Sun, 26 Sep 2021 19:34:08 +0100 tony
Pump has run 24/7 or would if they didn’t switch it off at night, for the last few weeks

Boiler controls pump but pump seems to be ‘smart’ having led, temp and flashing led’s on it

I think the pump is picking up the solar thermal heat and thinking the boiler needs to cool so it runs

Plan to talk to WB technical tomorrow

Opinions?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16669 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16669 Tue, 28 Jul 2020 10:20:51 +0100 Sprocket
It is not built yet so amount of insulation is down to me. Currently looking at U value for walls of about 2.0 but I can adjust this at cost of thicker walls so just a bit less internal space. Space is a bit of a premium - I can't make it bigger than 6m x 4.6m externally.

Big unknown at the moment is what is likely to be the best way to heat this space. Seems to me that if internal thermal mass is low I can maybe have the place sit at eg. 10 degrees in winter (to prevent condensation on engineering tools) and still be able to warm it up to 20 degrees fairly quickly when I want to go spend some time in there.

Is it all too much bother for the size and I should just go electric? Fan or underfloor?
Is there a simple appliance that will do what I want, preferably without unpleasant draughts and noise?
Is there even a very small and quiet enough ASHP that would suit?

Some of you must have heated garages or posh sheds so have already looked into this kind of thing?
How do people heat those "Garden Room" offices that are all the rage in home improvement mags lately?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17200 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17200 Fri, 17 Sep 2021 07:53:10 +0100 revor
https://www.theconstructionindex.co.uk/news/view/shoddy-heat-pumps-set-to-flood-the-market

Warns of foreign manufactured HP flooding the UK market to take advantage of the UK push to meet the government targets of installations.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13615 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13615 Thu, 20 Aug 2015 19:42:51 +0100 topher http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17175 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17175 Sun, 29 Aug 2021 17:31:01 +0100 Peter_in_Hungary http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16911 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16911 Thu, 28 Jan 2021 12:09:32 +0000 Tomasz_P
I have been lurking for a while but have now subscribed with the hope of tapping everyone’s knowledge for a renovation I am about to embark on. I will try not to ramble on for too long initially.
The property is a circa 17/18th century brick built coach house in Norfolk. Approx 360m2 total floor area over 3 floors (some of this will most likely be divided into a separate annexe). Currently occupied but we will be moving in at the beginning of March and will be renovating, including an overhaul of the heating system. The building has not been upgraded in many ways to improve thermal efficiency. The attic has been converted but I think it is only 50mm PIR insulation between the rafters. If any of the walls require plastering I will probably look to add SOME internal insulation in the form of something that will allow the building to breathe. I will add shutters to the windows and possibly secondary glazing in time. It currently has an old oil fired heating system.

We are a family of 4 (who like to be warm and like hot baths!). I would also say that my primary goal here is to make the house comfortable whilst decreasing its reliance on fossil fuels. If I wanted a super-efficient home, I would not have bought a 300+ year old coach house :bigsmile:

My current plan is install UFH for the ground floor only. Most of the floors are solid but I have a little space to add SOME insulation. This will be paired with an ASHP for DHW too. I toyed with the idea of GSHP but the added work/cost put me off.

There is a wood burner, which can be used in the living room and an electric converted Aga in the kitchen. Because my wife likes to keep the house quite warm, my thought was to keep the oil fired system but upgrade the boiler with the intention of using it only when required and during deepest winter when the ASHP will not be running particularly efficiently. However, I would like to size the ashp to heat the whole house, which has been roughly calculated at 24kW.

Does this sound sensible or do i ditch the oil entirely? I will be enlisting the help of installers but I will also be doing a lot of the prep/simple work myself. The installer advised ditching the boiler, otherwise I will not be eligible for RHI payments.

By biggest current concern is that there is no point in installing UFH when I can only add minimal insulation. I have read a number of posts suggesting I would lose too much heat into the ground but the company I have consulted for installation seem to think 25mm foil faced eps will be ok! The kitchen area has a suspended floor so that should be ok but the rest of the house has solid floors which probably consist of a fairly thin screed over earth or possibly brick/stone then earth.

Should I just stick with enlarged rads? My counter to that argument is thermal comfort. Because of the way UFH heats the room, can you put less energy into the room? IE would losses to the ground be mitigated by the reduced amount of energy required to make you FEEL comfortable (rather than achieve an average temp). It is something I have not seen mentioned an awful lot yet. I have seen lots of impressive calculations about heat loss (something I need to figure out myself) but little discussion on comfort, which is altogether more subjective. For example, if you have a room that is at 20C but stone floors that are making your feet feel cold, your overall thermal comfort will be disproportionately lowered by your least comfortable body zone

...I said I wouldn’t ramble!

Here is a link to some pictures, EPC and floor plans. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1NltX79pqjmajWHI6V1zs4Wm1q546K3ib?usp=sharing]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17168 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17168 Wed, 25 Aug 2021 20:49:32 +0100 minisaurus
Our local district heating company are now in the game also, with this: https://www.midroc.se/en/rodoverken/reference-projects/energy-storage-in-gothenburg
56 m high, 23 m wide, 22 000 m3 capacity, multiple heat sources, hopefully means they’ll no longer have to burn oil on the very cold winter days :bigsmile:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17161 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17161 Sun, 15 Aug 2021 15:45:04 +0100 greenfinger
Had a Woodwarm wood stove installed 1st March this year. A few days after install we noticed some rust on the inside of the firebox. We (regrettably) didn't think too much of it at the time. However, when we went to stop sing for summer, and cleaned it out etc, we saw that the rust had got worse.

We're in communications with the company we bought it from, but interested to get people's opinions and thoughts about it in the meantime.

We've been burning seasoned ash wood only (no coal etc). There's no rust on the outside of the stove.

Many thanks



Here's some photos taken 3 days after install, with flash on so they are quite bright:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17160 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17160 Sun, 15 Aug 2021 10:22:04 +0100 Peter_in_Hungary
A guesstimate of the heat demand made by the daily increase of buffer store temp. required gives a figure of 150kWh/day. in January. Does this sound in the right ball park? (Too many variables in the system for me to calculate)

The system is radiators currently run at 60 deg. on programmed timers but I think I can reduce the rad temp to 50 deg. for longer duration.

DHW comes off the buffer store to a separate DHW tank so in included in the 140kWh/day

If the 140kWh/day is the assumption what size ASHP would be needed, and what size electrical supply would be needed (amps and 1 or 3 phase)?

Is ASHP even an option?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17151 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17151 Wed, 11 Aug 2021 18:46:00 +0100 John Pedersen
I'm just starting to look at using the stream at the end of my garden for a water source heat pump. I could use some advice on the practicality and whether I could do any of the installation work myself.

The stream is 50m from the house, downhill, about 15m below the house. It's small - running currently at about 10-15 litres/minute. The stream is fed by a spring up the hill, passes through a field and then goes underground for about 2-300m under the ground of an old folk's home. It exits the concrete underground pipe at the bottom of my garden. I've just measured the water temperature, and it's 14 degrees currently. I'm guessing that it might be around 12 degrees in winter, given the distance it travels underground? The stream runs very clear almost all of the time - I have been using the water for years for garden irrigation, toilet flushing and the washing machine. Occasionally, the farmer puts cows in the field and they paddle round in the stream turning it brown.

I've looked briefly at websites of people who fit water source heat pumps, and one site suggested that the height of the house from the water might be a problem as there is higher to pump the water. But I'd have thought the return water would balance the intake, and so there'd be little pumping energy needed?

A water temperature of 12 degrees or so might be fine in winter, but I wonder how practical it might be to heat the water further during summer, either in my greenhouse which is near the stream and gets too hot unless I ventilate it, or by having the intake pipe exposed to the air and so warm up somewhat as it travels up the garden.

There's the question of open or closed system.... I think given the height difference, there would likely be a problem with air getting into an open system. I could possibly lay a heat exchanger for a closed system inside the base of the concrete pipe - it is easily big enough to crawl up.

Would I be able to do some of the installation myself (I've rebuilt the house, and installed all the plumbing and a raspberry pi controlled irrigation system for the garden) or do I need to hand over all the work to some registered installer to qualify for the RHI payments?

Thanks for any suggestions.

John]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17143 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17143 Fri, 06 Aug 2021 03:44:04 +0100 omehegan
As a result, there might be an opportunity to install insulation below these floors, but there are some constraints. First, there is only about 30-40cm clearance below the joists, so solid board insulation below the joists can't be installed. It would have to be rockwool batts between them, held in with strapping or similar that can be installed from above. Second, I doubt I can get a pro installer in in time to do this without hugely impacting the rest of our remodel timeline - the old kitchen was removed 4 weeks ago and we still have another 2-3 weeks to go before the other work is done. I can't really add another couple of weeks to wait for an insulation installer. Third, I am wondering if it's necessary to install some kind of vapor barrier in addition to the insulation batts - I have seen places that recommend a plastic membrane both above and below the batts. Is that best practice?

I think to do this at all, it's going to have to be something simple that I can DIY in a short time. Lowest winter temps here probably average about 12C during the day, 5C overnight - rarely dips close to zero. So I almost wonder if it isn't really worth trying to insulate the floor, given the rest of my constraints. Interested to hear any thoughts from the group.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17146 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17146 Sun, 08 Aug 2021 20:55:59 +0100 Shevek http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17141 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17141 Thu, 05 Aug 2021 12:37:18 +0100 Shevek
We're thinking to exchange the gas boiler for a hot water cylinder with integrated air source heat pump (e.g Dimplex Edel, Energie Aquapura Monobloc etc. that can vent directly through the external wall) and fit a few electric infrared or convection panel heaters. (there is EU funding available here up to €2500 to fit new heat pumps, solar thermal, PV etc.)

But if we're going to the trouble of fitting such a unit and we really want to lower our heating bills then would we be better to fit a heat pump that can also provide central heating?

Problem is I can't find hot water cylinders with integrated heat pumps that can provide this level of output.

We're on the first floor of a 4 storey block of flats and while it might be feasible to fit something on the roof I'd rather avoid that option if we can. First we'd need to get permission, then we need to find a route, it would need to be close enough, and then we'd need to be sure we're not create a noise nuisance for the top floor (the building performs very badly acoustically).

Are there any integrated units on the market that can provide central heating?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17126 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17126 Fri, 16 Jul 2021 05:38:56 +0100 omehegan
As I mentioned, the house is brick, with no insulation either in the walls or floor (suspended timber with no access underneath, therefore no way to insulate there unless we pull up the old floor). I don't yet know if the walls are solid or cavity, so at best if they are cavity we could have bulk insulation blown in. The windows are all single-glazed, and I don't intend on replacing any of them in the near future, because they are in good working order and the old ones have been modified with draught-proofing so they seal tightly. After we get the insulation done, I plan to go through and seal up gaps everywhere that I can. I know there are a lot around the skirting boards and doors that need attention.

So my question is, if the walls and floors may never have any insulation added to them, is it worth doing the R5 or R6 insulation in the ceiling? Or should we just do the R4 as this one place suggested?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17112 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17112 Fri, 02 Jul 2021 14:22:49 +0100 DavidND
The home heating industry is in turmoil. Alternative technologies silently vie for control of the wallets of homeowners. As you read this, yet more innocent homeowners are being conditioned to believe that nothing short of spending thousands upon thousands to replace what they already have can save our little blue planet… God help us!

While we all need to act more responsibly, this feels to me more like scamming of innocent, caring homeowners. Govt ineptitude coupled with industry keeping its mouth shut for fear of killing the approaching golden goose.

From where I sit, I see that we DO NOT NEED to change what’s already installed in homes to meet the immediate climate change targets. Households can both save money and meet said emissions targets almost overnight. How? By the controls industry FINALLY pulling their collective digits out & delivering homeowner-friendly controls. This dearth of truly homeowner-friendly controls has been a major root cause of our over consumption & hastened our pending disaster.

The bimetallic strip thermostat was invented in the 1800s. It transitioned into homes in the 1960s with central heating. The 70s saw the awakening of environmentalism, as energy scarcity reared its head and costs rose, and that drove the market for electronic Building Management Systems for commerce. Manufacturers refused to consider the needs of homeowners. So-called Smart controls, which appeared around 2010, are really an adjunct to the late 70s home automation trend. Has their emergence into the mainstream meant a massive reduction in consumption? Heartbreakingly NO! Despite being so potentially capable, today’s controls remain, to the vast majority of homeowners, like the impenetrable forest in Sleeping Beauty.

Konrad Adenauer, founding father of modern Germany, said, “One needs to look at things so deeply they become simple.” So, no matter what type of heating system homeowners install, it can only EVER be as good as a homeowners ability to use it – its controls.

I recently bought controls from global manufacturers. Disturbingly I found them the antithesis of usable. My estimation is that poorly set up or in correctly used controls are responsible for approx. 1/3 of our excess energy consumption. Frankly, in usability terms, they are appalling. Instructions seem to have barely changed since the 80s. Manufacturers still DEMAND that users are fluent in ‘controls’ and see any failure to understand by users as ''user error'. How very disturbing. Without doubt, manufacturers try hard. They work hard to engage & they always explain / document every nuance. However, this is like shouting louder and louder to someone who's deaf!

During my research, when homeowners were asked why they don’t consider ‘Smart controls’, many said their home, "...doesn't matter in the grand scheme of things.” Truth is, that's a sop, an easy, barely, socially acceptable answer. Further examination uncovered unexpressed fear of change, fear of increased costs, fear of failure (various including inability to master) as well as fear of ‘losing control’ of their home.

It would be yet another environmental disaster to replace systems not currently being controlled properly with different systems not being controlled properly. Replacing existing controls with appropriately user-friendly controls so existing system efficiencies can be maximised would positively impact emissions almost overnight and vitally buy valuable time to not only properly assess alternative energy sources, but to get people properly trained and to configure housing stock so it become truly fir for lower energy sources.

I have tried but I can find no case to be made for replacement without appropriate controls. We need to harness controls technology to support us fallible human beings. We need it TODAY to support and guide us through the impenetrable forest to deliver that all important kiss to awaken the Sleeping Beauty that is planet Earth.

What do you think?

David]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11668 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11668 Mon, 27 Jan 2014 10:43:24 +0000 stones
Our unit provides all our DHW, heating and mechanical ventilation.

Ventilation is however mechanical Extract Ventilation only (MEV) not MVHR in the normal sense.

This actually increases our space heating requirement according to SAP 2009 as follows

Current system - EAHP – 8074 kwh/yr
Possible alternative system ASHP with MVHR for ventilation – 5079 kwh/yr

One could be forgiven for accepting the increased space heating requirement if the heat pump actually met all of the DHW and space heating requirement at a CoP of 3 as SAP2009 indicates. The big problem is that it doesn’t because of the limited size of the heat pump compressor (650W).

For us, with an annual DHW requirement of 5000kwh a year (including losses) this means that the heat pump only has capacity to provide DHW and space heating down until around 7C ambient. Below that, any shortfall is met through the use of immersion.

In our case, we have used an average of 5180 kwh of immersion each year.

So, to meet our total energy demand of 8074kwh heating and 5000 kwh DHW the heat pump uses about 3600kwh/yr for compressor operation and 5180kwh/yr immersion. This gives us a system CoP of just under 1.5

Is it all bad – the system has good weather compensation control and maintains a very pleasant and even temperature around the house (19C) 24/7. The unit is the size of a large fridge and has simple enough controls, and can be described as fit and forget. Used for DHW only, in the same way as some of the other EAHP cylinder units, the system would work well.

I for one have had enough. Having tried seeking redress from the installer (who still maintain it is a good system and meets our requirements at reasonable cost!) and taking legal advice (not enough evidence to succeed) I am currently investigating whether to cut my losses and install an ASHP and MVHR system. Based on known heating requirements and flow temperatures, I believe I could cut my current energy use by 50%.

So, the moral of the story is buyer beware. These units whilst fine for DHW, cannot meet space heating requirements in addition to DHW. Many have been ripped out of social housing schemes in England. The continued insistence of the manufacturer that the units have a CoP of 3 is nonsense. The heat pump / compressor may have, but after taking back up immersion into account it most certainly does not. And the industry wonders why it has unhappy customers...]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17038 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17038 Mon, 26 Apr 2021 11:16:45 +0100 Ed Davies
I mentioned that the bottom middles of quite a lot of the radiators in the house, particularly downstairs, are cold even when the heating has been on for a while presumably because they're sludged up. Nope, he said, that's how it should be. Am I right to be sceptical? I think they should be a bit cooler than the top, of course, but not stone cold.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17064 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17064 Fri, 21 May 2021 10:02:28 +0100 Nanuchka
Hoping for advice about how to do this in the most environmentally sympathetic way. The space is the top floor of a barn with vaulted ceiling. One big room with entrance hallway/small kitchenette and bathroom at one end. Previously hot water was from an old LPG boiler. Would like to have heating and hot water system this time, avoiding fossil fuel.

Other considerations are:
-solar panels and battery storage about to be installed servicing main house and all outbuildings
-hoping to have a wind generator again at some point (old one installed in 1991 has finally been dismantled :-( )
-will have small woodburner as plenty of wood available from the land + seasoning/storage space
-there is space for a hot water tank on the bottom floor of the barn (which is still functionally barn)
-the space is currently occasional use but may be used full-time at some point
-the roof and floor are in the process of being insulated and draught-proofed

Thanks in advance :-)]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17055 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17055 Tue, 11 May 2021 16:16:12 +0100 PeteJ What we have at the moment is a system which incorporates solar thermal, a wood-fired Rayburn ( Model 345W @ 9kw) and an LPG gas boiler 1989 vintage- (Ideal Mexico Super2 C125P @35.5kw ), all linked to Gledhill Torrent ECO HP Sol heat bank . We also have a 10kw PV field array split into 2 x5kw phases.

The aim is to get rid of the ageing LPG gas boiler which is absolutely on it's last legs - and as the RHI is coming to an end next March, it seems an ideal time to consider a heat pump and move away from fossil fuels ( the simplest and cheapest thing we could do would be to just put a new LPG boiler in).

The question is about retaining the Rayburn (I appreciate that we won't actually need it to keep the place warm but it is great to cook on and I'm just being sentimental) :
I understand that if it remains attached and contributes to the central heating ( even in a very limited way)this would make the system ineligible for the RHI ( unless metered, which we want to avoid).
Does anyone know of any instances where a heat pump has been installed and something like a wood burning Rayburn is retained in the system by some jiggery-pokery to avoid conflicts between the inputs plus retaining the RHI?
We have had a couple of quotes for ground source and air source heat pumps and both installers have said it is not possible, so I'm pretty much resigned to losing the Rayburn, but who knows!!

Thanks and look forward to hearing from you]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17019 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17019 Wed, 14 Apr 2021 09:57:12 +0100 zak99 We live in a late 70's small detached 2/3 bed bungalow in a rural village with no gas, so run an old Oil boiler, still going strong but old `and noisy so its turned off at night. We are near the coast of a large estuary and next to a field so exposed to wind. The place is really cold in the morning and takes hours of the boiler flat out to get warm. The floor is a concrete slab, with the pipes to old but solid radiators in a screed about 50mm thick and the walls brick and block with rockwool insulated cavity. Theres 200mm in the loft floor and double glazed all round but its ancient, cold to touch the aluminium frame and draughty and on the list to do. It's just me and the wife. We also run an old wood burner with a mix of wood, briquettes or eco logs and heavily depend on that in winter. This is of course an increasing concern regarding environment, climate etc and also health of internal air.
My thoughts have turned to the possibility of AS/GSHP because of climate concerns, and especially because of awareness that the RHI ends next year. And perhaps upgrading the Wood burner itself along with more careful thought of what we burn. We have long considered a major refit including a well insulated loft conversion and external cladding but this has been on hold due to long family health issues and bereavement but also long frustrations with finding the right architect and plan. We may get back to that when things settle down.
I'm aware insulation is THE most important thing we can do, but the external cladding and windows are perhaps waiting on our decision on progressing the bigger plan or not. In the mean time I wondered can I progress with the heating, I appreciate this is probably the wrong way round.

Despite the cost of boreholes I feel inclined towards GSHP, for a few reasons, one being the existing boiler location is by the middle a long narrow alleyway leaving limited space for an external unit. External cladding/insulation will also be a challenge there in the narrow alleyway, but perhaps there will be higher spec and thinner insulation I could use on that part when I get to it.

I did have a quote from Kensa for GSHP based on 'as we are' and that that would probably cover us in a future scenario with extra loft rooms but much improved insulation all round. I know its incredibly vague but what are your initial thoughts please? I believe I need to get an EPC to establish scale of RHI, the cost is quite a shock but doable and easier over the 7 years assuming a decent RHI. Regardless the cost benefit analysis probably doesn't add up unless I factor in the greater good as its the right thing for emissions (assuming that stacks up). I haven't had a quote for boreholes yet but am guessing around £10k.

I guess some would say just insulate and replace the oil boiler. I'm not averse to that once I could feel its a sound long term move ethically with regards to climate etc. Thats important to me.

My wife's wise main concern is - will we be warm?, she feels the cold. I appreciate with HP the water will flow in the rads at a lower temp but could be on longer, perhaps if quieter left on a low level over night hopefully easing that cold spell in the mornings. Lower temp rads replacements perhaps a requirement.

Any advise at this early stage welcome please]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17024 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17024 Thu, 15 Apr 2021 17:19:38 +0100 chrisduncan
I need to choose asupplier. There are a lot of them out there - could I canvass your opinions on which companies to approach? Manufacturer or agent? National or local?

I've looked at the previous post "how to choose an air source heat pump" which wasn't much help because after the second post the thread got hijacked by people discussing deeply technical issues!

I'd just like to know which companies I should approach for a design and a price. Many thanks.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17023 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17023 Thu, 15 Apr 2021 15:36:43 +0100 greenfinger
Recently had a stove installed.  We asked for 904/904 flue liner to be used but I'm not sure it has been and am thinking 904/316 might have been used instead.  The data plate just says 904 on it, and the installer doesn't seem to distinguish between the two.  

I've attached some photos of an offcut that was left...  Is it possible to tell from these what type it is?  Happy to take more if that would help.  Or is there any other way to tell what it is?   

In the third photo you'll see that there are thinner strips of metal that I've peeled back to illustrate the point.  I don't know if that counts as the inner or whether it is an additional layer?  But that is definitely thinner than the outer...  

Cheers]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16971 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16971 Sun, 14 Mar 2021 19:23:47 +0000 minisaurus
I live in Sweden and work as a building heating and ventilation technician. I’m wondering what work opportunities might be available in the UK, as I’m contemplating returning for the remainder of my working life and onwards. I know this isn’t the exact right forum, but I’ve had such good help here in the past :)

The properties I work with are schools, flats, care homes, other municipal buildings. The main heat source is district heating – 80 – 110 degree hot water in to a heat exchanger; the amount exchanged controlled by a valve actuator, which is regulated by a table in a PLC-type computer that uses the outdoor temperature (via a sensor) to determine the radiator water temperature. Radiators run cooler than the UK, the colder it is outdoors, the higher the temperature exchanged from the heat exchanger. For example today, it’s about 5 degrees out, and the radiator water in my house is running at 38 degrees.

Other heat sources include ground and air/water heat pumps, wood pellet boilers, the odd electric boiler, there’s even a bit of solar, gas and some oil as a back-up.

Hot water is either exchanged directly from the district heating/pellets/gas/oil, or stored in the case of solar and heat pumps, stored in accumulator tanks. All hot water systems have a circuit, and a pump maintains a constant circular flow to reduce legionella risk.

I don’t have any gas certification, very few people do here, and it’s not something I’ll be able to get over here.

I know how to calculate (dimension) a heating system, including radiators, pump(s), expansion tank; but am happier building and maintaining such systems. We rarely drain down systems, we use e.g. magnetite removing/filtering devices, automatic air removal, freeze pipes for smaller/quicker jobs.

I’ve never worked in this profession in the UK so have no idea if these skills are transferable but suspect they probably are. I’m not looking to move until earliest 3 years due to children school situations.

Any help/advice appreciated:bigsmile:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16704 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16704 Sun, 06 Sep 2020 20:37:37 +0100 NRDigger As noted in another thread we are refurbishing our large 3 bed house.

I have a specific question about zoning in central heating.

Our proposed plan currently is to either relocate our existing boiler or replace it whilst we are at it.

Currently all rads are on the same zone - main runs are 22mm with 15mm branches.

Based on the current rads (some of which I've upgraded to make a larger system to allow a future ASHP), in total I estimated a 21kw heating demand/output at 50'c and approx 27-28kw heating demand at 60'c flow temp.

Currently all rads have standard TRVs on. We have a single main thermostat in the living room.

I would like to have a system whereby upstairs rads are heated in the morning to a lower temperature and downstairs to a higher temperature for more of the day. COVID has meant changes to working practices that will likely become long term and so the house will be largely daytime occupied.

I have looked at this thread: http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16213&page=1#Item_0 and note the recommendation for Radbots. These seem an excellent idea except I'm concerned my main thermostat will cause issues, i.e. the Radbots will turn the radiator on when there is no call to heat from the boiler.

I would have the option, given the current access to floorboards (!) to physically separate the upstairs/downstairs radiator runs and create two physically separate zones, but clearly if I can get a system whereby TRVs, central thermostat and boiler all talk to each other, that would be a lot simpler. Does such a system exist?

All of this, of course, with the view that at some point after we have worked through 'Project Insulation', an ASHP is likely to be going in...]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16956 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16956 Thu, 04 Mar 2021 18:41:47 +0000 Peter61
The location of pump doesn't disturb his family but it has now made my garden impossible to relax in and the droning noise drives us indoors. This winter the unit has run all day every day and in summer it is on about three hours two or three times a day and then at night, somedays it runs all day, even Summer.

I dont want to go to the council but would prefer to work with my neighbour who at the moment is not motivated to do anything about it. Is there anybody on this forum who has the expertise to advise me what could cause this noise. Its very hard to describe other than a droning sound that carries, but it happens when tempratures above about 5 degrees. Thank you for any advice I can take to my neighbour or EHO if it comes to it.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16929 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16929 Thu, 11 Feb 2021 11:52:01 +0000 Albert
I believe that this type of gas fire is particularly inefficient plus we are not keen on its looks so we want to replace it. The idea is to have a heat source that is not dependent on electricity (we live in the sticks) and that we can use for those spring and autumn times when full CH seems a bit of overkill.

We don't really have room in the tiny courtyard garden for any kind of heat pump (and anyway, that is volts-dependent) Wood or other solid fuel seem to be a no-no for particulates and as for oil...

So we are looking at installing a more efficient gas heater. From an aesthetic point of view we fancy something that looks more like a wood stove and I would hope that would also allow for a more efficient setup.

Are there any options I've missed? Has anybody any suggestions for makes or for suppliers in Herefordshire?]]>