Tue, 19 Dec 2023 06:34:24 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13011 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13011 Tue, 20 Jan 2015 19:18:28 +0000 woodgnome Battens 38mm deep.
Apart from the obvious plugs and screws, i was thinking hilti gun or similar.
Has anyone used one for this?
I can hire a paslode version quite cheaply but i think the max length of fixing is 70mm and not sure if this is enough.
Plugs etc are fine but i was trying to speed the process up!
Cheers]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13495 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13495 Tue, 07 Jul 2015 08:55:34 +0100 tony
There needs to be a vapour barrier to stop moisture moving out through the walls and causing problems in the structure.

Try this line in Canada and they would laugh.

Yet manufacturers of some modern building systems are saying that if there is a mechanical heat recovery ventilation systen a vapour barrier is not needed, how insane is this,

What if it was switched off, or brakes? Arent they concerned about going into print on this and leaving themselves open to claims, or about their customers having problems?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13444 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13444 Tue, 16 Jun 2015 21:31:54 +0100 joe90 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13443 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13443 Tue, 16 Jun 2015 20:38:11 +0100 collonach Rear of garage is cut into steep slope 2.5m bgl at rear, reducing at sides.
One side is adjacent to site boundary.
Advice sought on options for construction.

Garage Structure:
Opt.A. Block work x 2, cavity filled with concrete, reinforced as per SE.
External damp membrane. Drainage
Some PIR to protect, insulate garage level.
Opt.B.: Durisol ICF, reinforced as per SE, more insulation at upper level
External damp membrane. Drainage
Some PIR ditto
Garage floor: x mm concrete over y mm EPS

Studio floor:
Option A: concrete beam, Tetris block, screed, insulation below?
Option B: Timber joists, mineral wool ins
Studío walls:
Option A: single block work, EWI, Parex reinforced polymer screed.
Option B: timber frame kit, rockwool behind & between studs.
Roof: cold timber frame, copper clad (or alu-zinc if cost issue), rockwool insulation 300mm U = 0.14
Windows: 3 on studio South, 1 on studio north. Door on studio west. Door on garage west.

I tend to favour block construction, as easier for builders to handle.
I am not sure if I should ignore insulation of garage level, and focus on cocoon of studio.

I will include provision for future wheelchair lift option within garage, to give disabled access to studio and house behind.

I would value advice on these options, or suggestions of alternative strategies.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13284 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13284 Thu, 09 Apr 2015 19:28:50 +0100 splashie
long time since been on the forum. Now doing the air guard (dupont vapour barrier) and the tape availing for our merchants seems to be just American duct tape. This orange stuff is great, not like the awful cheaper stuff that fails quickly, but I'm worried that it's not specified for the job (yet been recommended it)

Is this a case of a cheaper product is fine or do we need some form of fancy tape that won't ever deteriorate?
will the better stuff really be 'better'?
Surely tape fails eventually (10 years?) and it only let's a wee bit of air in anyway?

thanks in advance!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13411 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13411 Tue, 02 Jun 2015 22:22:26 +0100 phil303
I'm trying to build an affordable, low energy consuming home for my new family. Lots of really valuable info discovered, some great knowledge on here, thanks so far, i hope you can help with this one too?

We're building in a sandy area with low ground bearing pressure for the first 1m, then some soft clay, on top of Glacial Till which has great bearing capacity at 1.2m down.

We're in a high Radon area, needing full protection.

originally i wanted an insulated raft, for all its apparent performance, speed, simplicity with Radon barrier and supposed cost saving it seems to offer, but, gbp too soft for weight of house in this location to make it a realistic option without huge masses of concrete and rebar, suddenly not so simple, quick or cost effective. So, as a result it looks like we will be on strip foundations, with an insulated ground bearing slab, that seems a fairly reasonable solution to me?

The house is to have ICF walls. The structural engineer insists on rebar dowels out of footings and reinforcement carries on up the wall. windy area and fairly high side wall.

I understand in a masonry build the Radon barrier would just lap through the walls above ground. But how can effective protection be achieved with strip footings and rebar? I can't go over the rebar? Is the only way to go beneath the strip footings themselves?

That makes running the radon sump and sealing the pipework, along with any slab penetrations a whole lot of work.

I wondered if there was another simpler way?

Any advice much appreciated.

Cheers
Phil]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13408 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13408 Mon, 01 Jun 2015 21:05:12 +0100 flexon http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12595 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12595 Sat, 27 Sep 2014 21:22:48 +0100 tony
Also fixing, two nails in the top or one near the bottom to fix?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13375 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13375 Mon, 18 May 2015 11:53:57 +0100 woodgnome Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13348 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13348 Fri, 08 May 2015 08:15:31 +0100 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10564 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10564 Tue, 23 Apr 2013 13:37:48 +0100 woodgnome I see there are plenty of beads etc, but cant find anything for using wet plaster straight on block-work.
That's what happens when your other half watches Grand Designs !
She wants them on the cieling/wall junction too...]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13354 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13354 Mon, 11 May 2015 08:37:29 +0100 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13291 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13291 Mon, 13 Apr 2015 22:20:02 +0100 Ed Davies
Consequently I've been thinking of trimming it down a bit which is more than just a paperwork exercise as the brackets the posts are to sit on are already in place - positioned on threaded rod resined into the concrete pads.

http://edavies.me.uk/2015/03/bolted-to-scotland/

The base plates are 300 mm square with the holes for the rod on 240 mm centres.

Options for shortening are to either remove the existing rods and put in new ones moving the plates (and therefore the posts above) in about 120 mm or to chop off a whole 240 mm by reusing the existing inner set of threaded rods as the new outer ones and putting a new inner set in.

Advantages of the 120 mm move are that the plates finish up better centred on the pads (this end lot are the worst of all and though they technically meet the engineer's spec it's only just and I'm not wonderfully happy) and I have the opportunity to get them spaced just a bit more accurately than the builder managed (and, of course, the risk of doing it worse).

Advantage of the 240 mm move not having to remove the existing rods.

I can cut the rods just fine with my jigsaw or hacksaw but I don't think either would practically cut it flush enough with the concrete so the other option would be to try to screw the bolts out (multiple nuts locked against each other on the thread). Holes could then be filled with post-crete or something to stop water getting in and freezing. Do you think that'd be practical?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13328 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13328 Wed, 29 Apr 2015 21:21:03 +0100 splashie
This might be a bit last min for you guys, but I can find nothing online to help me.

Got to put in the MHRV outlet / supply roof vents in tomorrow and it's still unclear if I need to be a certain spacing from a window in the manner you do for a soil pile vent.

As far as I can work out my two vents need to be 1m apart edge to edge, and I'm keeping them as far from the soil vent as I can (approx 1.5 or more higher up the roof)

If you do have any thoughts or can signpost me to regs feel free to share!

many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10226 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10226 Fri, 01 Mar 2013 20:56:04 +0000 several
My concern is simply this, any defects in the aluminium trim(ie, at joins etc) could lead to water getting in and sitting on the DPM under the soleplate.

So, is it better for the DPM under the soleplate to be lapped back up the external face of the SIP like drawing B?

thanks in advance]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13296 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13296 Sat, 18 Apr 2015 21:33:54 +0100 splashie
Ive searched the scottish regs but can't fine the right bit. We have theventilation pipe to go from bathroom to out the roof. however this is very close to a velux. I know there are regs saying how close you can go, but I can't find them

Any help appreciated

:)]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13288 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13288 Sat, 11 Apr 2015 16:49:55 +0100 ward32
I am planning to build in two stages, 'extension' part first while occupying the original building (extension part will not be connected to the original structure in any way), then demolish original structure and rebuild, making connection with the 'extension'. But in VAT notice 708 it says:
“A qualifying building is constructed when: it is built from scratch, and, before construction starts, any pre-existing building is demolished completely to ground level”

But VAT431NB makes no mention of demolition before construction starts. It says:
“your claim will not be eligible unless: you have demolished the pre-existing building to ground level”

I will be demolishing the original building to ground level but not until half way through. So my questions are:
1. Could I build half the new structure before demolishing the original?
2. Other than a new build planning approval notice is there anything else a contractor needs to zero rate their services?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11818 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11818 Fri, 28 Feb 2014 21:39:50 +0000 debbiel
Also, what dimension timber should I be looking at for the studwork if using Warmcel?

Thanks,
Debbie]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13266 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13266 Fri, 03 Apr 2015 20:16:25 +0100 AliG I have been reading the site for some time, but now I am about to start building a new house.

I am about to get permission to build a large new house in Edinburgh. It is 1.5 and 2.5 stories high with a 500 square metre footprint and close to 1000 square metre internal area.

I am aiming for a very well insulated house but not quite passive standards. Passive slab, wall with 0.15 u value and triple glazing. The house will also have an indoor pool heated using solar.

I am working on the building warrant with my architect and now we have to make the final decision on build route.

I was hoping to use ICF as I currently live in a timber frame house which feels somewhat flimsy to me. I plan to live in this new house for the rest of my life and want to get it exactly right. ICF is also a very good route to build a pool.

I have spoken to some of the ICF companies, but indicative costs for a shell build are off the charts.I have also found a couple of builders who have worked with ICF in Scotland but they are few and far between. I don't feel that I would want to trust the shell build to an inexperienced builder.

My architect is pushing hard to go for a SIPS construction. He believes that I won't be able to tell the difference in terms of solidity and as there are more suppliers and builders familiar with the system then it will be easier to get quotes and a reasonable price for the build.

One thing I am considering is SIPS with hollowcore or posi-joist and screed floors. If there is anything that we do not like about our current house it is bounce in the floors and perhaps SIPS with these flooring methods would be robust enough. However, although it is theoretically possible I have not heard of anyone building a SIPS house with concrete upper floor and I am concerned that some of the longer spans of just over 7 metres may be problematic using posi-joists with the weight of screed.

I did have a brief talk with Seamus at Viking about the project a few days ago and will see what he has to offer. My architect, however feels if we are going for a timber system we should stick with someone local which I think is a fair point.

I would really appreciate any input. I feel slightly stuck in that I do not want to waste people's time getting quotes when I have not decided the build route, but without quotes and at least a shortlist of builders I cannot decide and complete the building warrant.

Thanks for your help
Alistair]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11738 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11738 Wed, 12 Feb 2014 12:30:41 +0000 Triassic
The roof un-ventilated, using a breather membrane to let moisture out, doing away with continuously venting at the eaves.
- Slates over
- 25 x 50mm battens over,
- Breather membrane, ‘klober’ or similar, over,
- 125m deep rafters.
- 100mm Celotex Insulation between the rafters, set flush with the bottom of the rafters, void between top of
insulation and underside of felt.
- 90mm Celotex insulation under joists, joints staggered and taped
- batterns over the insulation
- foil faced plasterboard with skimmed finish
expect to achieve 0.11 W/m2K

The wall construction : -

- Rain screen - weather board or render over mesh and 25mm battens, to give a ventilation space behind.
- Framesheild breathable membrane over external Panel line or Panel vent, products designed to be breathing
boards, compared with the standard ply / OSB.
- Timber frame, 200mm thick, either timber stud or I beam construction.
- 150mm Celotex insulation fitted flush with the inner side of the stud.
- 69.5mm EPS insulated plaster board, joints staggered and tape sealed.
achieving a U-value of 0.12W/m2k

In both the roof and the wall construction the taped joints combine with the foil face of the insulation to form the Vapour Control Layer, (VCL).

I'm left scratching my head at some of the detail so please let me have your comments / experience / questions. All gratefully received as I only get one chance at getting this right !!

Edit - U vales added]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13255 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13255 Mon, 30 Mar 2015 14:12:16 +0100 collonach
Such panels would only provide excellent insulation if they had a good thermal seal top and bottom and sides.
Has anyone here any experience of designing this sort of feature, or any advice on detailed design?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13221 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13221 Wed, 18 Mar 2015 10:54:11 +0000 kentishgreen
Local ground and trees dictate that I need a piled foundation for my extensions. I've had the usual soil tests and engineers input etc. I have now shortlisted two piling contractors who have differing ideas on anti-heave measures:

Contractor A: Voided space beneath RC suspended slab
Contractors B: Cellcore under RC raft

Costs are virtually the same, though I may end up with more spoil with A. Structure on top will be SIPs with UFH.

My original intention was to insulate ontop of the slab but with a voided option, insulation underneath may be a (better?) solution? Obviously I wish to reduce cold bridges where possible.

However the cellcore option underneath the slab would also give some insulation value, so I could go for that route with insulation on top of slab.

I'm awaiting on the architect to draft his foundation/wall details, but in the meantime would value any input into my slab options. Will upload detail when completed.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13208 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13208 Wed, 11 Mar 2015 17:34:36 +0000 Triassic
Our Structural Engineer has specified a reinforced concrete basement and suggested we use either traditional timber shuttering or ICF. I've priced up the ICF route but am struggling to find comparative costs for traditional timber shuttering, has anyone got any suggestions on which approach would be cheaper and by how much?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13209 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13209 Wed, 11 Mar 2015 21:47:14 +0000 richardelliot
I introduced my project on the forum last week. It is going to be a traditional construction with a beam and block floor, brick and block walls and a standard cold roof:
http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13175&page=1#Item_8

I'm happy with my architect and builder, but neither of them have built a new build before and (I don't think) are as concerned about air tightness as I am, although they know it is important to me and don't dismiss it. We have an air tightness target in the contract of 4m3 per h/m2

I'm hoping the forum can help me with the below:
1. What practical difference will it make if we won't hit the target of 4m3 per h/m2 and ended up at, say 6 or 7m3 per h/m2? Will it make much difference to my energy bills? We're installing underfloor heating running from a gas boiler?

2. Any advice on the best way to help my builder achieve good air tightness? I had thought about getting an intermediate air test, but speaking to someone who does air testing a lot of the tightness is achieved at the second fix and there isn't much point testing too early. Would it be worth getting a 'consultant' in to speak with my builder? And if so how do I find one?

Thanks,
Richard]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13212 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13212 Thu, 12 Mar 2015 22:13:52 +0000 Triassic
Should I be sealing the radon and DPL to each other and then sealing the sole plate to the damp proof course? For air tightness!

If so, what product would you use?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12748 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12748 Tue, 04 Nov 2014 17:20:50 +0000 slidersx200
The roof trusses are due to arrive on site this Thursday and hopefully we can get things pretty weather tight before the predicted severe winter sets in.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13205 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13205 Wed, 11 Mar 2015 07:45:29 +0000 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13207 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13207 Wed, 11 Mar 2015 17:34:20 +0000 Triassic
Our Structural Engineer has specified a reinforced concrete basement and suggested we use either traditional timber shuttering or ICF. I've priced up the ICF route but am struggling to find comparative costs for traditional timber shuttering, has anyone got any suggestions on which approach would be cheaper and by how much?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13196 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13196 Sat, 07 Mar 2015 20:57:53 +0000 Cerisy
Doing a search I have either DEVImat or Schluter DITRA-HEAT from a UK supplier (tilefixdirect.com) - DEVImat seems a good package, but the Schluter mat comes with a 5.5mm studded uncoupling layer that will give me some sound deadening under the finish of ceramic tiles. If I go with the DEVI I'll need to buy a good quality uncoupling layer, so the cost difference isn't massive ... decisions, decisions!!

Of course, such heating mats are available in France - a local, big DIY store, Leroy Merlin, also offers heating mats - but they aren't a known brand and I think we would be better installing a good quality make. Once it's laid under the tiles I'm hoping it will outlast me!!

Any experience with installing - buying heating mats please??

Thanks, regards, Jonathan]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13145 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13145 Mon, 23 Feb 2015 22:29:18 +0000 tbhulse
Tim]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13139 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13139 Sun, 22 Feb 2015 13:34:28 +0000 ward32 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13130 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13130 Thu, 19 Feb 2015 19:38:27 +0000 Weegaz
But anyway.....

We will be commencing our new build in the near future, currently going though planning for a change of house type, and really need some info if possible.

Have been researching ICF construction, which seems like a worthy method of build, but would like to get some others input into this method. This along with SIP roofing panels will give an overall low U value and air tight build.

The foundations and sub floor for a house where laid some 7 years ago before the area became green belt and the new build will use the existing foundations.

Any info or suggestions on ICF would be welcomed.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=815 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=815 Thu, 01 Nov 2007 14:05:39 +0000 StuartB
Cheers]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4262 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4262 Sun, 12 Jul 2009 17:07:22 +0100 James Norton
J]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13122 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13122 Tue, 17 Feb 2015 18:42:53 +0000 Cerisy
Back to the real world of hands on building - we got the frame company to include loads of plasterboard when they packed up the frame on the lorries. It duly arrived early November 2012 - 28 months ago. My plan of getting it stacked in the house was a complete nonsense, so it has been sitting outside for all that time. We managed to bring in a small pack that was beginning to go mouldy, but with all the internal works no chance of shifting the bulk. Hey ho, a relatively small mistake in the overall scheme of a new build.

Just about to order local plasterboard, but thought I'd do as told by the current wife and opened up a pack. It was as if just made - bone dry - easy to lift - simply amazing! 72 sheets now stacked ready for use inside! It was a full pack from the manufacturer and very well wrapped, but the bottom plastic was split and the moisture from the earth below could have made it damp and useless. So, two more packs to open up asap and, maybe, get the walls and ceiling plasterboard up in the next couple of weeks. Just brilliant!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13093 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13093 Tue, 10 Feb 2015 18:57:39 +0000 djh
The major purpose as far as I know is to create a cavity inside the vapour barrier for running services, especially electrics. What I've actually found though is that it's very difficult to route electric cables:

* every batten has to be cut, chiselled, routed etc to allow the cable past

* the battens don't allow much surface to secure the cables as required by regs

* dealing with the previous problems causes frequent penetrations of the vapour barrier. My wall looked like a poor shaver's face with toilet paper stuck all over it!

What am I missing?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13106 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13106 Fri, 13 Feb 2015 13:01:44 +0000 joe90
https://uk.finance.yahoo.com/news/straw-homes-for-sale-on-the-open-market-for-the-first-time--171442131.html]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13076 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13076 Sat, 07 Feb 2015 16:42:32 +0000 ward32
Max span of longest joist = 5.2m

I intend to glue 22mm T&G boards to the joists.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13099 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13099 Thu, 12 Feb 2015 08:24:37 +0000 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18 Fri, 02 Feb 2007 14:28:17 +0000 Mike George
One concern with this, is the possibility of water ingress into the insulation through the outer leaf of brickwork/blockwork.

The counter-argument is that as cavity widths increase to say 150mm or more, the proportion of insulation which may get wet, will be less and can be considered sacrificial.

What do we think?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13086 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13086 Mon, 09 Feb 2015 18:29:50 +0000 SteamyTea http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-31156579]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12961 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12961 Tue, 06 Jan 2015 14:10:57 +0000 Triassic
I suppose the starting point must be what the windows should be made out of - timber, timber composites, Alu-clad and GRP and that's before I even start to consider colour, style, openings etc.

So far I've looked at Nordan, Idealcombi windows, Russel Timbertech, Munster, Valfac, Ecoplus and Howarths.

How did you shortlist suppliers and what should I be looking for in a window and window manufacturer?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13084 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13084 Mon, 09 Feb 2015 12:28:50 +0000 Triassic
A number of web sites suggest that kickers should not be used. What is recommended is that the floor should be cast first and then the walls cast next, with the junction being at floor level.

Any thoughts on what is current best practice?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13021 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13021 Thu, 22 Jan 2015 11:44:30 +0000 Triassic
I thought the EPS 300 would be more than adequate, especially as Passive Houses are built on a raft of insulation.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13031 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13031 Sun, 25 Jan 2015 12:04:58 +0000 ward32 1. If stop ends have to cover the full width of cavity or would shorter ones do?
2. If preformed, rigid trays could be used that did not cross the full width - supported with cavity batts?

Any other solutions?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12596 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12596 Sat, 27 Sep 2014 22:56:48 +0100 tony
Dot and dab
Dormer windows
Shower trays without upstands

Add to the list, feel free to bump the ones above down the list]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12293 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12293 Wed, 02 Jul 2014 07:15:52 +0100 Triassic
So if you had to analyse a number of TF quotes what would you include in your checklist?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13005 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13005 Sun, 18 Jan 2015 23:06:25 +0000 djh
No, it is not a problem! :devil:

It's just something to think about but it must have been thought about before ...

We have inward-opening tilt-and-turn windows. So whatever window covering we have needs to sit clear above the sash. I'm thinking of blinds rather than curtains, and located within the reveal. But I just realized today that there's very little height in the reveal above the sash. There's a small height to start with (frame width less overlap of the sash) and then that's reduced further by the plaster around the reveal.

What's the solution? All I can think at the moment is to cut a hole in the head of the reveal and make a slot to conceal the blind in. Or mount the blind on the face of the wall above the reveal. Neither of those options seem very attractive, and there must be tens (hundreds?) of thousands of houses with this style of window, so I'm hoping somebody must have come up with a better solution?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12991 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12991 Thu, 15 Jan 2015 09:51:08 +0000 Triassic
How do we minimise cold bridging at the ends where the beams sit on the wall?

Also, I recall reading about someone using EPS blocks (ones the same thickness as a concrete block, but in long lenghts) to infill between the beams, any one got any links?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12992 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12992 Thu, 15 Jan 2015 11:48:32 +0000 tony
I asked why 20 yrs, 60 would be more realistic. then they do add up!

Same for walls again calculation for 20 tears, what would happen to the walls in 100? demolition possibly but nothing else.


Is justifying U-values, heat losses, etc even vaguely sensible using payback, no mention of upgrading/replacement costs which blow all calcs out of the warer]]>