Tue, 19 Dec 2023 06:59:26 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16261 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16261 Mon, 30 Sep 2019 08:44:57 +0100 deniance
Ok so, in my 150 year old terraced house...

Only my front room has a suspended floor for some reason?

So it’s time to insulate! I’ve lifted the boards and it’s 2 feet void straight down to soil, the stone walls / foundations around the perimeter are external walls( 2 external walls two internal walls)

I’ve had a good look around, no cables , no pipes, doesn’t seem to be any evidence of any vents, just foundation walls straight down to floor, there was a 6x6 inch vent outside the front door but this just seems to be placed into the render outside and doing absolutely nothing, no evidence of this vent inside either.

The wooden joists are sat on little stubby walls, the joists are dry, the stubby walls are dry, the soil floor is dry, the only mildly damp areas are the two external wall foundations, but I think this is just because the pavement outside is 2 feet above the depth of the suspended floor.

My external walls have been pebbledashed over stone which I am slowly removing to dry out the walls!

But yeah, it’s a hell of a lot dryer than I expected it to be! Maybe because it’s just floorboards with gaps in?

So I’ve done a search here, and I like the idea of just tipping beads in and plopping the boards back down, but is it as simple as that? Was hoping to tip them in right up to the top of the joists and then replace boards?

If I totally fill the void then there is no void, and in theory doesn’t need ventilation? Is that right?

What if there’s a fire? Will these beads under a wooden floor be super dangerous or not?

But my main concern is the damp walls, only the two external walls down there are damp, gotta be because the pavement outside is 2 foot higher, but I cannot do anything about that, so if it gets filled with beads what will happen to these damp walls, will they just stay damp and get along with the beads or will the beads increase the damp somehow? This is the bit I’m unsure of, I would hate to fill it and then find out it’s made it worse!

Also if this is the way forward how deep does it need to be, I’ve got a 2 ft void, do I fill it totally with beads or can I build up with hardcore or sand then the remaining gap with beads? I’m hoping you can help it’s frying my little brain! Cheers guys!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8067 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8067 Fri, 04 Nov 2011 13:46:41 +0000 pipvh
We're in a deep valley on Dartmoor and that being the case our site is subject to a lot of atmospheric damp - for instance, from September on, even when the sun is shining (it does happen once in a while), the dew doesn't evaporate from our stone path. I'm wondering if this ought to influence our choice of building material. Quotes for pre-made timber frames are attractive, SIPs slightly less so but there's the convenience. Local builders would want to use blocks or stone. A SIPs person said he wasn't all that keen on using SIPs for walls in damp locations. Unfortunately, times being what they are, the build is extremely budget-sensitive, ie cheap as chips is what we're after, but we don't want to sacrifice quality or eco considerations. We're tempted to go with a SIPs roof, but it's the walls that are the dilemma. Any input would be gratefully received!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16248 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16248 Wed, 18 Sep 2019 11:00:05 +0100 HoveTom
Any other suggestions welcome for cheap easy products.

Tom.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14368 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14368 Sat, 02 Jul 2016 16:35:56 +0100 CX23882 The final part of my renovations will be to replace some failed double glazing units.

The windows were installed in 1995, and are uPVC with 28mm units, 3 chambers, external shuffle-bead and espag locks. Every window functions and looks fine. The previous owner replaced the two south-facing front windows in 2009.

The biggest issue is with the two north-facing bedroom windows, which are approx 1800x1000, with a large 1200x1000 panel which has failed on both. Cost-wise, I could order the best specification double glazed units, and come out at around half the cost of replacing the whole window.

Is this false economy? Are newer frames going to be significantly more efficient? I've never liked waste, although presumably the uPVC goes to recycling, so it's not so bad. The security of the old frames could be better, which is another plus for replace.

Going further, I could reglaze, and then fit secondary glazing outside the reveal? Wouldn't this perform better than even the best replacement window both in terms of heat and noise insulation, and no waste other than the failed glazing units.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16230 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16230 Sun, 01 Sep 2019 20:03:13 +0100 salvador
I'm looking at some architectural sliders from various suppliers such as Ultraline, Express Bi Fold, Cor-Vision etc. I noticed that on Ultraline, it "only" gets a Class 2 for air permeability whereas others achieve a Class 4. I'm aiming to get as air tight as possible and I'm trying to figure out if a Class 2 is poor and will cause problems, or if it's only relevant for very windy exposed locations. I can't seem to find any guidance on what these numbers mean real life.

I really like the Ultraline, but I'd hate to be sat next to a draft having spent so much on windows.

Incidentally, has anyone reviewed such suppliers before for price to quality comparison?

All and any advice welcome.

Many Thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16216 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16216 Tue, 20 Aug 2019 07:42:44 +0100 Peter_in_Hungary sub soil
200mm EPS
120mm concrete slab
From another thread I see that putting the DPC under the EPS could / would create a bucket from which any water or damp from building would never escape so putting it under the slab is the better place. But given the properties of EPS is a separate DPC under slab needed at all and if it is protecting against damp - From where is the damp coming?
(The main house to which the extension abuts is stone/rubble construction with no DPC)]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16211 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16211 Sat, 17 Aug 2019 12:41:03 +0100 gravelld
The room happens to be dot and dab plasterboarded. There is no "air tight layer" so to speak, certainly not a designed one, but I want to make this as good as possible.

The window is installed on the outer leaf with an Iso Chemie expanding foam tape. You can see the white plastic internal film for this slightly underneath the window.

My current thought is that the only way to make this better is to:

- Chop back the p'board at the head and reveals
- Tape from window to reveal
- Wet plaster over (although I would also like an insulating p'board on the inside if that were possible)

Does my plan work, or might there be an easy way?

I do realise that even if the window is nicely sealed in there's air getting (probably) past the Iso Chemie into the cavity then through the blockwork into behind the p'board, but I can't fix that right now. I just want to do the right job for now. Maybe I shouldn't do anything, and just address the AT when we remove *all* of the p'board?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16199 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16199 Sun, 04 Aug 2019 23:15:36 +0100 tony
Here is an interesting photograph of something I had only ever seen once before and at that on a different continent and over forty years ago.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/eaz7ht1ila8uwvb/dots%20on%20ceiling.JPG?dl=0

You will notice several things in this photograph.
A) dark dots
B) dark in the corners of the wall and ceiling
C) darker fairly wide stripe on the ceiling

Analysis
A) the dark spots are nails and these conduct heat very well picking up dirt from warm air converting up from the room more than the slightly warmer parts of the ceiling and general damp, dirty air and condensing it under the nail heads leaving a black mark. I would say that clout nails had been used rather than plasterboard nails and an extra nail banged in in the corner, further the fixings are a little too far apart for my liking and using too long nails.
B) we generally see more heat loss at the corners than elsewhere this is simply due to 3D effects.
C) the dark stripe is again a result of damp and slightly dusty air condensing on the ceiling. Generally for a properly insulated ceiling I would expect more of this under the wooden joists as they are acting as thermal bridges than on the body of the ceiling leading to the conclusion that the ceiling lacks insulation or that it has been lifted and not replaced properly. Note that it is not so dark next the wall most likely as a result of that insulation being still in place.

The whole building had a poor 100mm of insulation which was topped up to 400mm recently under my supervision.

Tony - July 2019]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16166 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16166 Fri, 05 Jul 2019 13:21:41 +0100 baffled http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16146 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16146 Thu, 06 Jun 2019 00:02:09 +0100 Yalch
I am going to use some 40mm wood battens to nail down the wood flooring and keep an air gap to allow everything to ventilate and breath.

My question is, are 40mm battens going to be thick enough?

Thanks,
Jon]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16186 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16186 Mon, 22 Jul 2019 20:00:28 +0100 thebeacon
I’m going to be laying an 18mm T+G OSB3 sheets onto suspended timber joists with solid oak floorboards glued on top of the sheets.

I will screw them down using: floor-Tite Screws 4.2 x 45mm https://www.screwfix.com/p/floor-tite-screws-4-2-x-45mm-200-pack/52936?tc=CA9&ds_kid=92700024762948872&ds_rl=1249481&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=CjwKCAjwtvnbBRA5EiwAcRvnpnwZ929X3nemgMAlDJ1PfZVF0Kfq7-c1Y6eUsiGNyQhh0C2B70fqARoCU-MQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CPeMzYrmgt0CFYSnUQodkD8BYg

Should I be gluing the boards in the T+G? I am laying them onto a VLC that’s running over the joists so cant glue them to them joists.

The joists are about 300mm apart, what’s the recommended distance between screws running along the joist?

Should I treat the edges of the OSB, as I read that it can swell?

And should there be a space left for overall expansion?


Thanks for the advice.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16171 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16171 Thu, 11 Jul 2019 20:09:16 +0100 jamesingram sometimes argued about on GBF
So it's 2019
What's the most up to date view on the best way to deal with damp , rising damp and salts damp damage near to the ground level on internal wall finishes on solid walls.

Once penetrating damp, surface water drainage and or condensation issues have been ruled out , should we consider the various damp shield creams and additives on the market or stick with the more traditional breathable solutions.
(in cases where internal insulation isn't wanted)
what does the GBF team think?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16176 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16176 Wed, 17 Jul 2019 23:47:58 +0100 teach_glas
I have an old Irish cottage with thick walls (400mm) made of mass concrete (no DPC). We are doing a complete renovation including new roof with extended eaves to connect EWI and roof insulation.

Can you guys foresee any problems with the following approach:


- 200mm of EPS EWI (the external wall currently has a painted concrete render finish).

- I plan to dig French drains and backfill with Leca clay aggregate.

- breathable lime plaster inside (no internal insulation)

- New Insulated slab inside

- New windows placed within insulation layer


If I lay a new slab inside with plastic underneath, does this mean all the dampness under the floor will travel to the (breathable) walls?

EWI installation is hideously expensive in this country, can it concivably be done via DIY?
I'm experienced in CAD so have a set of accurate drawings, plenty of time. Bear in mind its a simple rectangulatar cottage. I've been reading the INCA best-practice document and it seems it may be possible if you spec your new windows with thin aluminium sills, also taking extreme care and planning in the small details.

The render finish will have to be done by professionals.

Any help would be much appriciated!





J.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16175 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16175 Wed, 17 Jul 2019 15:51:35 +0100 thebeacon
i currently have all the floor boards of my suspended wooden floor up. I am planning to insulate by attaching chicken wire under the joists and filling the gap between the joists with rock wool. My joists are 90mm deep. I will lay a Pro Clima Intello VLC over the joists before laying a 18mm OSB board layer and floorboards on top of that.

How should i go about insulating between the joists and sleeper walls? should i not run any insulation over the sleep wall as it will cause bridging?

Should i be sticking the Pro Clima Intello VLC to the wall all around the floor?


Thanks,]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16102 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16102 Wed, 17 Apr 2019 23:11:25 +0100 wholaa
I am not a building professional, so please excuse the amateur nature of my sketch.

I) is this a likely cold bridge?
II) For various reasons, we are reluctant to get external insulation, is internal insulation on the former external wall a viable solution?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15893 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15893 Sun, 14 Oct 2018 18:52:07 +0100 ItsBobbins
Im looking for further advice on how best to proceed with insulating a suspended timber floor.

So far, the suggested have been:


1) insulated slab

we have around 500mm void beneath the floor. i understand we would need to build the level up with hardcore then something like sand > DPM > PIR insulation > concrete > Screed > finished floor?

Would there be any issues with this method given the depth of the void?


2) PIR insulation between joists

The joists are only 50mm and most people suggest 100mm PIR. Could extra timbers be fixed to the joists at the counter batten points so allow for 100mm insulation?

3) lay new flooring on top of existing flooring.



Would there be much difference between options 1 & 2 in terms of heat retention? obviously there would be a difference in price!

Would option 3 work be any good if new floor was laid with adhesive and sealed at the skirting boards?


sorry i realise there are other threads in a similar vein!

thanks in advance :bigsmile:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16168 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16168 Mon, 08 Jul 2019 12:41:34 +0100 thebeacon
I am currently renovating a Victorian house with a suspended wooden floor. I recently lifted the floorboards to discover all the ends of the joists (about 200mm) where rotting due to the air bricks being blocked by previous owners. I will install new air bricks .

I’m in the process of researching how to replace the rotting ends of the joists. Its been suggested to cut the ends of the joists off and sister new joists ends, making sure that the new pieces run at least 1 metre along the old joist and are joined with coach bolts. I will wrap the ends of the joists in a dpc to protect them. The joists are 3.5x2 inches thick and about 450mm apart; I was told that this is further apart than they should be for the thickness of the joist. To add extra support to the floor I will not only replace the ends of the joists and sister the new joist 1m along the existing joist, I plan to run the joists the entire length of the room about 4m. This means the new joists will sit on 3 sleeper walls. Should I still sister the new joists to the existing joists using coach bolts? Or as the new joists are well over the required 1m should I install the new joists independently from the original joists?

I also have to replace 200mm of the ends of the 4 joists in the entrance hallway. The existing joists are too close to the wall for me to put a coach bolt through and tighten them. The new joists I lay will be 3 metres in length and will sit on at least 2 sleeper walls. Should I attempt to attached these to the existing joists, or lay them as independent joists.

The plates also needs replacing. The old plate had not been wrapped in a dpc. I intend to add a new 4x2 inch tantalised/pressurised plate with a dpc wrapped around it and stapled. Should I place another dpc sitting under the plate and running up the wall a little? I will wrap the new joist ends in a dpc also.

The old plate had scraps of wood balancing on it to level the joists, I have read that slate was commonly used, should I use slate or is there a more contemporary material used?

Should the plate be attached to the wall is it sitting on at all? Should I attach the joist ends to the plate? Should the new joists be attached to the plates on the sleeper walls, if so what’s the best way?

I will insulate and lay a plywood tongue and groove floor before laying the floor boards. I have seen when taking the original floor boards up that some have been leveled with thin bits of wood between the floor board and joist. What material should I use to ensure the plywood floor is completely level, and is it ok to put between the joist and plywood?


Thanks,]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16143 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16143 Sun, 02 Jun 2019 12:27:10 +0100 thebeacon
I have purchased a 3-bed late Victorian terrace house in the UK, its about 130 years old. The house has a suspended wooden floor on joists and I plan to take up the floor and insulate between the joists.

I have read a lot, including very helpful advice from Historic England (https://historicengland.org.uk/advice/technical-advice/energy-efficiency-and-historic-buildings/insulating-floors-in-historic-buildings/) regarding how best to renovate Victorian buildings.

Upon taking up the floors we will inspect the state of the joists, electrics, plumbing, install more airbricks and treat all the wood work for wood worm/ beetles before installing the insulation.

With regard to the planned renovating works I would like to get some advice on my proposed layout and have a few questions regarding logistics. We plan to lay (see attached image):


1. Top layer: either solid or engineered tongue and groove oak floorboards.
2. Below the floor boards: 18mm Plywood tongue and groove or OBS sheets
3. Below the ply/ above the joists: Tyvek AirGuard Smart Air and Vapour Control Layer by Dupont (VCL) sealed to walls behind skirting.
4. Between Joists: 150mm Breathable Thermafleece Cosy Wool Rolls Sheep's Wool Insulation
5. Pro clima SOLITEX PLUS vapour permeable membrane. The membrane is draped up and over the joists to create a cradle to support the insulation material and its integral reinforced netting ensures it provides sufficient strength.


I’m not intending on making a floating floor. One of the big questions I have is should I nail the plywood boards to the joists, which would mean nailing through he VCL? I can’t find anything online that suggests against it. The VCL is not a vapor barrier, its breathable. I could lay Tyvek Butyl Tape on top of the VCL running along all the joists, so when I nail through into the joists the tape will self seal the VCL. I would then secret nail the floor boards to the ply layer.

With regard to the thickness of insulation required: the current requirement for a suspended floor is 0.22 - the calculation for my property comes in at 0.18 so well within that figure. Its suggested I use 150mm thick Cosywool as most applications look to exceed the 0.22 Requirement.

Although I haven’t looked under the floorboards yet, what happens is the joists are not 150mm deep? Can I still install 150mm of insulation?


Image credit: Ecological Building Shop.

Thanks for your time.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16122 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16122 Mon, 13 May 2019 17:19:42 +0100 Yalch
because we are then going to use a Junkers reclaimed gym flooring, I am going to put battens ontop of the screed and then the wood flooring; as this should help vent the screed and keep "breathabiliity".

There is a joining extension with a suspended timber floor that has now had the wall between the 2 rooms removed and I plan on putting spreader plates in there for the UFH with supasoft insulation beneath.

My question is, I have 2 options for the limecrete side and am wondering which would be the better option?:

Option1,
UFH in the limcrete screed,
Pros: 1. potentially significantly more effecient?
Cons: 1. any problems the screed has to be dug up, 2. needs to be run at a different temp to the suspended floor side.

Option2,
UFH on spreader plates on the battens ubove the screed
Pros: 1. Accesible if any issues, 2. Can be run at the same temp as the suspended timber floor side
Cons: 1. potentially less effecient?


Thanks for any advice on this.
Jon]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16030 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16030 Fri, 15 Feb 2019 18:51:11 +0000 kmach
We're now starting on the IWI and have removed the old plaster to reveal the bricks underneath. We've looked at several options and they all seem to be eye wateringly expensive, both material and labour. There isn't a big difference in terms of materials cost between them.

Installed on a circa 80sqm wall on a fairly level brickwork.

1) Diathonite. The first option recommended to us but materials alone cost nearly 5k for 50mm. I enquired with experienced installers and cheapest labour quoted to us is 2.5k +vat hand applied+associated travel and accomm. One spray contractor quoted 8k+vat for materials and labour.

2) IQ Therm. Materials cost a few hundred cheaper than Diathonite, I'm still waiting for contractors to price labour.

3) Gutex Thermoroom. Cheapest among the three at £2800+vat. No idea on labour cost, wondering if any experienced plasterer would be able to install it properly. Also, not too sure about it being wood fibre.

Any thoughts would be highly appreciated.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16132 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16132 Fri, 17 May 2019 16:23:28 +0100 orangemannot I Need about 30 glazed units ranging from(nominally) 18" by 24" to 24" by 30".
Old units were the thinner type 4-13-4, but the rebates are a carefully measured 41mm or 1 & 5/8".
So I could/should get away with the standard 4-16-4 units?
Questions
(i) I am seriously considering doing the work myself, I have already removed one unit without fuss, so it seem a feasible proposition for me to take on, over the summer being retired.
(ii) Should I consider replacing ALL the units? and I have no idea re costs, yet.
(iii) What spec should I be looking for in the units?
Regards, in anticipation,
Marcus
Re item (ii) I probably need to replace most all of the units, since most windows are multiple glazed units, or beside other windows and it would look odd otherwise. Except for the odd unfailed single window here and there in bathrooms etc, which I would gladly leave.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16101 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16101 Mon, 15 Apr 2019 22:17:56 +0100 aclarky
any advice welcome -

renovating a 1900's house in Glasgow, 600mm stone wall.

the previous owners had 'damp proofed' but really they just diverted the damp to other areas. We are controlling the ingress but just taking the walls back to stone let them visibly dry out in a day.

So I want breathable and was thinking of this make up:

Stone wall - 100mm wood fibre insulation in stud - rigid wood fibre board - lime plaster - clay paint

1- do I need a membrane in there? I really don't want to put in anything that may concentrate damp etc and if the wall does get damp I'll sort it outside etc. So long as the walls are dry ish will the damp not disperse in/out naturally

2- any other tips that jump to anyones mind welcome.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16126 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16126 Tue, 14 May 2019 14:17:40 +0100 mattrgee
Following on from my recent thread regarding the insulation of a suspended timber floor, I have a further question regarding the use of a VCL.

As a recap, I am fitting Celotex between the joists of my suspended timber floor, all joints are being taped resulting in the joist tops also covered.

I had intended to lay a polythene VCL over the Celotex and joists, however, I was advised at the weekend that the foil backing of the Celotex is a VCL in itself and laying a further polythene VCL over the top, could trap moisture. I was consequently advised not to do this.

I have already bought a polythene VCL to lay, so really the question is: will laying it over the Celotex cause an issue or is a second barrier an advantage?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16107 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16107 Mon, 22 Apr 2019 20:45:53 +0100 mattrgee
First post *Hello*

I need to insulate the suspended timber floor in my living room, could you critique the below approach?

Once the existing chipboard flooring has been lifted (limited crawl space), I intend to remove any builders waste from under the floor. For two reasons: it will reduce material that could hold moisture and it will ensure airflow is unrestricted.

Joists are 120mm deep and I intend to fill them with 100mm celotex supported on 20mm treated battens fixed to the inside of the joists with galvanised nails.

The celotex boards will be carefully cut to width with any slight gaps filled with expanding foam. Joints between boards and joists will be sealed with aluminium tape.

Once the celotex is installed I will lay P5 moisture resistant chipboard, gluing the t&g joints and screwing the boards to the joists.

Is the above acceptable? Is there anything I have missed or overlooked?

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16087 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16087 Fri, 05 Apr 2019 15:55:29 +0100 costley111
Floorboards are currently tongue and groove, so would rather not take them up. However it seems in each room there are 'loose' boards which can lift up to allow access to crawlspace. Crawlspace itself is quite deep - about 1m, and for that, EPS Beads doesn't seem to be an option.

The crawlspace floor appears to be sealed concrete/cement floor, not dirt or the like. And 'appears' to be very dry. There are air bricks, though each rooms crawlspace seems confined to the room itself, partitioned off from others with brick etc, not sure if that is a thing - unsure how air can flow under if it is a single entry point at the 1 air brick per rooms crawlspace.

The floor joists are quite short, height wise, only 90mm - so the question is, if using the insulation roll/netting method - is it fine to completely cover the joist itself with the insulation... if using 200mm insulation roll for example, then there would be approx 110mm below the level of the bottom of the joist - much like insulation in an attic - though upside down.

Would this be fine - and in regards to vapor control etc, in this situation, what would you all suggest?

I've 6/7 rooms to potential insulate like this, so keen to get your thoughts]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16098 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16098 Sat, 13 Apr 2019 14:44:40 +0100 minisaurus http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16092 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16092 Wed, 10 Apr 2019 11:06:56 +0100 Sprocket
Our rennovation has ended up with some external walls whose inner face has been a bit damaged.
In some places the plaster and render (plaster skim over what looks like cement render) have come away cleanly but in others, especially where the wall had been patched with aircrete block, removing the cement render has ripped up the surface.

I am wondering what is the best way to re-finish these walls. I don't want to board over so I presume I am looking at some sort of render to fill the space and then plaster over.

I'm guessing we need something a bit more high tech than cement render like we removed?

Damp inspection reveals a tiny bit of damp in a couple of walls but just in the bottom few inches. It will be treated but I still don't want to use something non-breathable and have the UFH just drive damp up the wall. And given the state of the wall I am wondering if a strong render is required to help hold it all together and minimise new surface cracks. Or should I use a lightweight rennovation plaster all over (it would end up pretty thick in areas so may take quite a lot).

Any recommendations?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16048 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16048 Fri, 01 Mar 2019 15:45:43 +0000 SarahLW Does anyone have any experience of a company called roof maker based in Leicester?
I am looking at their triple glazed ultimate flat roof light which they advertise at a u value of 0.2.
Was just hoping for some feedback on them before putting in an order. I am in dorset so is a long way to go and look at the showroom]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16034 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16034 Mon, 18 Feb 2019 16:07:30 +0000 Victorianeco
What is the best method of replacement?

Thanks in advance]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16033 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16033 Mon, 18 Feb 2019 15:37:54 +0000 pappyirl
The rafter runs to the outside of the existing stone rubble wall. The rafters will be treated for the width of the wall. The slates overhang about 50mm into the gutter. The external lime render will run up the outside of the rafter ends. Gutter to be fixed into the end of the rafter. A plastic eaves protector and ventilator will be used under the last slat to ensure the water is deposited in the gutter and that ventilation is provided. The stone rubble will be built up on either side of the rafter.

I could not find a typical detail for a flush eaves, so this is my take on what will work. Does any have any constructive comments to add?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12627 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12627 Thu, 02 Oct 2014 22:16:23 +0100 Victorianeco
I'd ideally like to keep them but the floor has 'sank' in various places (by the newel you can just make it out) as just laid on ash. Is this DIY'able?

If I were to dig it all up, insulate (2" PIR) and run UFH in a 3" screed will the mosaics be good to go?

How much would I expect to pay to get an average hallway relaid?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16017 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16017 Fri, 08 Feb 2019 09:25:35 +0000 Victorianeco
My head says not worth the effort I also know the ideal solution would be to remove them completely, extend the rafters and use modern fascias / soffits.

We have to put in a price anyway as we do a lot of work for this authority but I can't see EPDM working long term.

Thoughts or any coatable solutions?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16012 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16012 Tue, 05 Feb 2019 16:25:47 +0000 civhback
The space is circa 3.7m wide x 7.5m long with joists c225mm deep running width ways. The back half is over a crawl space which I can access from below, the front half being a basement garage converted some years ago. For various reasons I'm not looking to remove the flooring above so my proposal is to insulate from below:

Crawlspace> Breather membrane stapled to underside of floorboards/sides of floor joists (to both protect the insulation and to aid in airtightness for the flooring above)
140mm of Knauf Earthwool (speaking to Knauf will provide U value of circa .22) and will give me space for services running within joist structure.
Supported by netting pulled stapled to side of joist then pulled across and stapled again
Crawlspace floor loosely covered by non breather membrane

Garage Ceiling:
Same as before but with plasterboard applied to underside of joists for garage ceiling.

I want to maintain a breathable build up as I can't guarantee vapour proof layer on flooring above - airflow is reasonable from below due to garage and crawlspace with a couple of airvents on the side and I've cleared out all the crap that had built up in the crawlspace over the years.

Looking for general feedback and in particular whether a) airgap between garage ceiling and depth of insulation will give me any condensation issues or whether better alternative to plasterboard (fire rated) b) whether breather membrane above insulation is overkill to aid in airtightness?

Appreciate any help

Regards

Daniel]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16016 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16016 Thu, 07 Feb 2019 20:52:20 +0000 aclarky
bit of advice if anyone can help.. We have moved into a 1900 house, 600mm stone walls, sash windows, very cold and just electric heaters - not even storage!

1 - can you inject foam into the void behind the old plasterer - sounds hollow ? lath and plaster. I don't really want to pop it out..

2 - any advice on Ultrotherm/spacetherm wall liner. Scarily expensive but it would do the job. I calculated 10mm spacetherm = 1.5w/m2K and Ultrotherm 3.3w/m2/K [wouldnt put money on my calls however]

3 - the windows are single glazed, we may add secondary glazing. Can you inject foam in to the window surrounds [not near the weights obviously]. The wood is so so cold!

THANKS!

Andy]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16008 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16008 Sun, 03 Feb 2019 16:06:19 +0000 Snugspaces It would solve the common issue with small crawlspaces under suspended floors.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16001 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16001 Tue, 29 Jan 2019 14:04:39 +0000 rsk1
Is there a way around the problem? Is it really a problem? Are tanking and non breathable insulation compatible?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15998 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15998 Fri, 25 Jan 2019 15:40:14 +0000 Victorianeco
Sanitary?

What's your go to brands weighing in cost against performance?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15982 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15982 Thu, 17 Jan 2019 09:41:53 +0000 aiazas Does anyone have experience using this insulation material? I've read somewhere that it can be dusty? Any other suggestions? I've considered PIR slabs (less insulating capacity for the same thickness) and rigid vacuum insulation panels (too many times more expensive), so the aerogel seems like a good mid way, but I haven't been able to find much info from users.
Thanks in advance!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15992 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15992 Sun, 20 Jan 2019 23:46:28 +0000 viki83viki
We're renovating a 1930s semi, and have totally gutted the loft room in an attempt to upgrade the insulation. (Turned out the dormers were rotten too, but that's a other story.)
Our plan is to use Actor Hybris between the timbers and Hcontrol over the timbers before counter battening and then boarding.
However, I've read that actis shouldn't be used to insulate a chimney, and we have a party wall with a stud that sits about a foot out. In the void between the party block wall and this stud is where the chimney stacks run. I hope I'm explaining that ok.

What insulation is best to fill this void with please? We plan on boarding with sound board to minimise sound transfer also.

Thank you.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15988 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15988 Sat, 19 Jan 2019 20:49:12 +0000 wellburn Opening about 3m across.
All the builders want to use steel, but an 'engineered timber' product appeals.
OK - it will be chunkier, but as i unsderstand it, doesn't need fireproofing / clad in PB so will be easier to work with / fasten doors / stuff too. - and muck lower embedded energy.

Any experiences, or how to calc to Building regs?
Thanks.
P]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15966 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15966 Thu, 03 Jan 2019 23:00:15 +0000 jemhayward So we started looking at concrete type of materials, so we could 'pour' a worktop on situ. Our carpenter can build a plywood worktop using 12mm ply, and a nice oak lip to create a tray which we could then pour our finish onto, and when it hardens we could polish it. BUT concrete isn't very green, and a layer 28mm thick is going to have pretty poor resistance to flexure cracking. Could I use a limecrete mix to create a polishable worktop finish, and would it be flexible enough?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15905 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15905 Tue, 23 Oct 2018 16:19:42 +0100 jemhayward
Anyone got any relevant experience to share?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15954 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15954 Wed, 19 Dec 2018 12:17:40 +0000 wookey
Given the need to tape round joists, what do people do between the joists? The existing wall is wet-plastered to a depth of about 15mm, so there is a step where the plaster stops at ceiling level.

I have previously discovered that taping round joists where there is a step is a massive PITA so it's a really good idea to make the surfaces flush so that means a parge layer about 15mm thick to match the plaster.

When doing IWI in the past I have used gun foam to fill the area, then put the insulation on, then taped (Tescon) to the foil facing. Works great.

But just using gun foam here would leave the cut-off foam surface which is very rough so hard to stick tape to well. One could use an orconF bead under the tape to help ensure airtightness, but I thought just parging might work better.

So what should one use for parging? Conventional seems to be a 1:3:1 cement:sand:lime mix, but not normally 15mm thick. Does it matter doing it thick? Also cement doesn't dry all that smooth in my experience so I wonder how well tape sticks to it?

What about plastering? I guess I'd need the conventional 2 layers: base coat and finishing to get a nice smooth surface to tape to. Should work, but it's going to be quite fiddly between joists. Maybe just use base layer and tape to that as 'smooth enough'?

Any other suggestions? A few layers of jointing compound (much easier to work with than plaster in my experience)

What would you do? This must be a common-enough problem on retrofits but I failed to find a discussion in the archives.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14354 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14354 Tue, 28 Jun 2016 11:09:52 +0100 Alimckay
We'll need ventilation! Have discounted a full MVHR system as overkill (old cottage walls will still be a bit leaky no doubt) and too destructive to the old cottage. Had thought about an Envirovent PIV system with heatsavas in 3 or 4 rooms (7 rooms in total in finished cottage) but have come across the Lunos e2 and ego systems. Any thoughts will be extremely welcome, and thanks in advance]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15952 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15952 Tue, 18 Dec 2018 11:47:38 +0000 Peter_in_Hungary
Would it be possible to retro-fit a radon barrier - and how?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15931 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15931 Fri, 23 Nov 2018 09:30:08 +0000 Dominic Cooney
We know where most of these need to go, however

I'm thinking now would be a good time to put a duct or ducts in to take the pipes from/to the yet-to-be-decided heat source, between the utility room and the outside of the barn.
This could be a GSHP or other such heat source, so I guess the ducts would need to take some sort of insulated pipes? (flow and return)

Has anyone got any ideas for sizes?

Or should I really decide what is happening before I do this bit!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15918 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15918 Mon, 05 Nov 2018 10:08:45 +0000 TimSmall
Barring a couple of minor mistakes, it went pretty smoothly.

We used a vacuum cleaner, some plasterers' mesh scrim tape, and a 5 litre mineral water bottle (courtesy of a neighbour's recycling box).

The outer-frame reinforcement chambers were empty in these windows (as is commonly the case) because reinforcement wasn't needed for this window size and type. They're made to accommodate steel box section reinforcement.

Drill two holes either side of the window. Vacuum cleaner goes on one side (22mm copper pipe with mesh tape on end), bottle of EPS beads on the other side. A bit of sealant over the holes when finished.

A calc I did in Therm showed the Uf value dropped from 1.14 to 0.88 W/m²·K.

Sticking some insulation between the sealed unit and the frame dropped it further to 0.83 W/m²·K.

I'll post some photos of kit and windows later on, plus some more details. The plan is to upgrade the double glazed sealed units to triple glazed too.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15916 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15916 Thu, 01 Nov 2018 20:27:22 +0000 tony
https://www.theiet.org/factfiles/built-env/retrofit.cfm?type=pdf

I would comment that yes we need this but not because of climste change but simply because we need to use less energy as it will be increasingly expensive and less readily available.

I would prefer to talk about energy use reduction than energy efficiency and indeed they do talk about this but it is the whole key.

Social housing providers are already doing better than the rest of us in this area.

In my view unless it can be economically driven then it won’t happen and even with economics on our side it will be a total nightmare to past our own planners!


One report synopsis talks about our old cold homes https://www.theiet.org/factfiles/built-env/retrofit.cfm
I think a lot of relatively new homes need to be included in the category, 50’s, 60’s, 70’s, 80’s and 90’s and some later homes especially the dry lined ones.

It is not so much the old cold homes that is the problem but the huge ammount of energy that is used to keep them warm.

Fabric improvements is what is needed on a massive scale, including draught proofing, air tightness, floor insulation and more....]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15828 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15828 Fri, 03 Aug 2018 11:21:26 +0100 jemhayward http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15927 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15927 Thu, 15 Nov 2018 12:32:25 +0000 tony
This building is approaching 250 years old and I reckon it still has the original windows but they could easily last another 100 years

Views]]>