Tue, 19 Dec 2023 08:52:01 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=549 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=549 Thu, 09 Aug 2007 23:37:47 +0100 jimbeam
first time question.
We don't have access to H&R build cost guide. So how much per metre squared would an extension of 70m2 be?
Two storeys, ground source heat pump, two panel solar, heat recovery, timber frame, timber clad, underfloor heating (already quoted 9k for windows).
Need figures for Average, good and excellent quality.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Jim Beam]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=530 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=530 Fri, 03 Aug 2007 08:35:08 +0100 tony
No more integral garages?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=532 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=532 Fri, 03 Aug 2007 16:44:54 +0100 Pingy http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=539 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=539 Tue, 07 Aug 2007 15:12:34 +0100 ailsa http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=548 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=548 Thu, 09 Aug 2007 21:37:23 +0100 Caroline We are currently extending our kitchen to be about 7mx5m of floor space. We are planning to have a wood burning Rayburn (cooking only) at one end, and are thinking that that won't give enough heat for the whole space (and for the days that we can't be bothered to light it). So......does anyone know much about electric underfloor heating pads, how efficient they are etc. The floor is new concrete and we are putting slate tiles to absorb sun's warmth (there are about 6m of floor to ceiling windows) during sunnry days. We have PV (about 5kW), and our other space heating is wood burners adn storage heaters.
Any thoughts or recommendations much appreciated.
Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=546 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=546 Wed, 08 Aug 2007 22:48:23 +0100 naturalhomes
More details here http://naturalhomes.org/gatehouse.htm]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=544 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=544 Wed, 08 Aug 2007 11:26:26 +0100 MarkS http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=542 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=542 Wed, 08 Aug 2007 09:14:33 +0100 rad-gone We are working through a construction and development company to provide Climaboard to the South East!

What is Climaboard I here you say!?

Climaboard is a heating product that means you can get rid of your Radiators and make your house more energy efficient – savings up to 30%!

When it comes to space saving & design, climaboard comes out top. You do not have to base your furniture around your radiators and you are maximising wall space.
Also, on a winters day (or most English summer days!) you want to get warm, quick! - A standard radiator will push out some heat, but it will generally warm the surrounding areas at creating a 'hot spot'... Climaboard however will heat from the ground up creating an entire warm room evenly heated and heating the room quicker and cheaper!
Climaboard provides quick and efficient control over room temperature, with energy savings of up to 30% as there are no accumulations of wasted heat below the ceiling.

Benefits include

· Energy efficient – savings of up to 30%
· Unobtrusive, healthy and beneficial heat Works with gas, oil or electric power
· No hot or spots - as little as 1° variation even up to 3 mtrs high
· No micro dust
· Inexpensive to install and maintain
· Retrofittable, even in apartments without room for a boiler!
· Stylish Italian design available in an infinite variety of finishes
· Elimination of mould around corners and less micro-dust
· 10 year warranty on parts

So what are you waiting for - if you want more information, please get in touch or visit our website –http://www.radgone.co.uk





Kind Regards,



Luke Beeston

M: 07506 739203]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=337 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=337 Sat, 02 Jun 2007 12:01:43 +0100 MrT
What experience/advice have people got on green adhesives. One major benefit I can see is no drilling into my walls and improved air tightness/cold bridging.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=534 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=534 Sat, 04 Aug 2007 08:56:03 +0100 SimonFrancis The guy doing it has just told us we must leave 6 weeks between applying the lime putty final coat and decorating the wall (obviously with breathable paint) even though there has been at least 5 days between each of the first 2-3 rough coats.
Being a novice at lime, can anyone advise me if this is correct and if there is a way of testing the wall just in case it dries quicker in this nice weather as we are supposed to move in 7 weeks and the lime work is not all finished yet.
Thank you.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=523 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=523 Thu, 02 Aug 2007 08:59:11 +0100 cheadle123 I live in a c200 year cottage in Chester which was re-pointed in 2003. I have noticed on my south facing wall that the mortar below the backdoor threshold has totally decayed / crumbled. I think when it rains that the water collects at the back door and hence makes the mortar weak? It appears that the mortar that has crumbled is below the PVC damp sheet but in a few areas it appears the mortar above the pvc membrane is wet.
How can I repair this issue? Is it normal for the mortar to decay below the damp proof PVC Membrane line as I guess with the house being so old the mortar is a lime mix? If so, what does this mean about the condition of the foundations?
Any help / advice truly appreciated.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=506 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=506 Wed, 25 Jul 2007 10:52:16 +0100 Peter Clark
Either,
put them under the windows to heat the cold from the window, and stop a convection circuit with cold air from the window sitting on the floor

Or,
don't put them under the windows because of heating the outside through the wall and window.

Everyone agrees, If on an outside wall put insulated reflective strip behind.

Our problem is that the room feels cold whatever we do to the thermostat.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Peter]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=524 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=524 Thu, 02 Aug 2007 11:35:11 +0100 Novy Mlyn
Thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=522 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=522 Tue, 31 Jul 2007 19:53:58 +0100 fostertom http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=342 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=342 Mon, 04 Jun 2007 00:12:15 +0100 Nick Parsons
The house is solid-walled but I internally insulated it to the best std I could afford (mainly 35mm extruded poly) 20 years ago.

I'd welcome any thoughts and advice.

Thanks.

Nick]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=528 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=528 Thu, 02 Aug 2007 23:05:47 +0100 Rachel http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=392 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=392 Thu, 21 Jun 2007 13:26:41 +0100 Dawn.a
We are interested in hearing from people with various energy backgrounds for positions across the UK

Please feel free to contact me @ dkenworthy@allen-york.com

Please quote Green Building

Thank you]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=525 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=525 Thu, 02 Aug 2007 11:53:22 +0100 jongarrett http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=526 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=526 Thu, 02 Aug 2007 12:17:04 +0100 ptan
It seems such a shame to dump them. I have kept a few for spares and I was thinking of building a porch but need the space.

Free but if you can spare some seasoned firewood otherwise a good home will do.

Pat]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=474 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=474 Sun, 15 Jul 2007 08:52:14 +0100 John Pedersen
I am going to install a wood burner, and have already installed a Dunsley Baker neutralizer so that I can plumb in a boiler integrated with the wood burner ( I already have a good new gas boiler running ).

However, I am going off the idea of having a boiler on the wood burner:
a) with a boiler, a wood burner burns the fuel at a lower temperature, and so is less efficient. Also, the wood burner with a boiler is more expensive.
b) I have seen people reduced to slaves of their wood burners, feeding huge amounts of wood into the stove throughout the winter ( OK, so maybe they had an inefficient setup )
c) I really want the wood burner to be an optional extra - to be fired up in the dead of winter. The quicker response in terms of space heating of a wood burner without a boiler is more attractive.

As a compromise, I am thinking of putting a black-painted radiator on the wall behind the burner to absorb any heat that would otherwise be absorbed into the ( internal ) brick wall. I imagine that if the radiator was very close to the wood burner, it would collect quite a bit of heat - but the burner would still run at the higher temperature/greater efficiency of a wood burner without a boiler. I could easily plumb the radiator in as a leg of the solar heating circuit, so that heat is transferred to my cylinder via thermosyphon. If it works I could sell the neutraliser.

It seems a simple setup, but haven't come across it before. Has anyone tried it? Any comments?

John]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=517 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=517 Sat, 28 Jul 2007 12:17:53 +0100 Leo Whitting http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=505 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=505 Wed, 25 Jul 2007 09:56:30 +0100 richy
Whats the minimum spacer for a 4mm k glass unit which is Argon filled. I need to stay with as slim a unit that will pass Building Regs.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=507 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=507 Wed, 25 Jul 2007 13:22:59 +0100 Novy Mlyn
Thanks in advance!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=518 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=518 Sun, 29 Jul 2007 12:22:36 +0100 nick a
The slow sand filters I've found on the internet use large volumes of sand, but are intended for wholesome drinking water. I'd like to know if I use a much smaller volume of sand (approx 250mm deep in plastic feed and expansion cistern) whether it will remove enough bacteria etc to make the resulting water safe and relatively odourless to store before use. Does anyone know the answer or where I might find it? Would I be better off trying a different approach altogether?

Thanks in advance,
Nick]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=512 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=512 Fri, 27 Jul 2007 09:31:31 +0100 Ads
So, for electrical power, is nuclear the greenest option?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=59 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=59 Tue, 20 Feb 2007 20:16:55 +0000 fostertom
Such Energy Rating is reqd by EC, not only for houses offered for sale, but for rent too. Because our govt has dragged its heels on the former, and hasn't even begun on the latter, the EC is now prosecuting UK. It's also reqd for commercial and public buildings and UK has indeed got that going, and is expected to reduce the floor area threshold progressively. Certificates will shortly be displayed in hotel lobbys, office receptions etc.

This is extremely important and promises to be far more effective than Building Regs, Kyoto etc, in creating widespread energy measures. Once Middle England gets familiar with these bits of paper that certify just how many £10k's this house is going to cost to heat over a medium term, compared with that one, then the extra-over will get knocked off houses' values. The more so, as fuel prices go up. The world system has somehow managed to get fuel prices back down again, since Katrina, so business-as-usual can continue - but for how long? Maybe next winter the Russians will turn the screw, just as the journalists begin to realise what Energy Reporting could mean to Middle England's pockets. It's amazing how last year's wacky idea becomes this year's conventional wisdom, once it hits the Mail's personal finance pages.

Given rising fuel prices, the effect will be a 2-tier property market. The very highest rated buildings, domestic or commercial/public, home-owned or rented, will rise strongly in value, compared to the average to low, which will level off or drop in value. The best will continue to rise even, or particularly, in the inevitable, well-overdue property slump. The worst will become unsaleable at any more than site value. There will be a new negative-equity crisis, and the underclass will be saddled with the low-value housing that's impossible to heat without subsidy. Values won't so much reflect the current Energy Rating, but the building's potential energy-improvability, which is at present not so obvious as a criterion. I'm advising my clients to get shot of their houses while the going's good, if it doesn't seem readily improveabvle, and buy something that is.

What does the team think?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=496 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=496 Mon, 23 Jul 2007 19:49:21 +0100 kt
We are first time buyers and need some advice ASAP. We are in the process of buying a mid victorian terrace and have just got the survey back. Pretty much everything was up to scratch apart from the 1960's groundfloor bathroom extension (off kitchen) which has walls only 120mm thick making it prone to condensation and damp and heat loss. It has a flat roof. The surveyor has highly recommended that we get internal dry linings ("water resistant insulation board") so that it meets building regulations. However if we do this he has said it is highly unlikely we will be able to fit a bath in. It is not showing any signs of damp yet.

To be fair the bathroom was our only real project - it is outdated with some wierd semi partition between the bath and sink and the toilet. We were going to strip it when we had saved up enough and redo it (new suit and hopefully knock down the wall). But the insulation thing is a bit of a blow as is the possibility of no bath. Does anybody have any idea how much this type of insulation costs and should we ask for some money off the price we are planning to pay? We are very eager to be as environmentally friendly as possible in any of our renovations.

Any advice greatly appreciated.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=515 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=515 Fri, 27 Jul 2007 17:07:54 +0100 Novy Mlyn
The prices I've seen (which most suppliers seem to keep secret for as long as possible) seem to be totally unachievable.

I need to replace a large roof, and would love to use solar PV if I can afford it.

Thanks.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=508 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=508 Wed, 25 Jul 2007 23:07:56 +0100 CarolAnne My conservatory wall is brick (external) and block (internal) with an insulated cavity: and finished internally with plasterboard. I noticed that plasterboard seemed to be frowned upon in a forum discussion. Why? I thought I only had to decide whether to either paint the plasterboard or plaster it. Given the latter 2 choices which would be best? I thought plaster would give me more insulation.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=509 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=509 Thu, 26 Jul 2007 14:32:55 +0100 Katymac I know they save water - unless they brake & then pour water down the sink until someone notices

Please can someone reccommend a good one that is indestructable

We are taking 2 & 3 yos here - so we do need very robust equipment:wink:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=510 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=510 Thu, 26 Jul 2007 15:45:38 +0100 Ben I hope to start a new build in the next 18 months or so and am trying to sort out a budget. For the roofing this kingspan product sounds good because it insulates to a high standard and waterproofs in one go. It is quick to install and does away with rafters etc. Does anyone have any knowledge of it and any thoughts?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=499 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=499 Tue, 24 Jul 2007 08:25:05 +0100 dave123 Would I have to switch the mains off first?
Is it legal?
And finally of course is a dangerous?

I know of course I could just plug in a multi-socket extension lead and run cables to wherever I need them.

Thank you in anticipation]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=487 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=487 Thu, 19 Jul 2007 10:07:21 +0100 juliahilton http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=488 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=488 Thu, 19 Jul 2007 19:15:27 +0100 Mike George http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=372 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=372 Wed, 13 Jun 2007 11:55:12 +0100 zenbiscuit
Anyway on to today's question. I'm creating the underground storage areas ala Don Stephens (greenershelter.org) and was wondering what opinions any of you might have on the pipe used to transfer the heat into the ground. I was thinking of using MDPE mainly because it's cheap :wink: Under the extension it'll twist around 10m2 of space so not huge for getting rid of the energy from 4m2 of solar panel or 30m2 of roof. Which brings me to the second question. We're going to make some solar panels and I was wondering if there was any piping that you'd recommend. In particular if there was any piping that didn't require much work e.g. welding. Or if there was a ready made grid of pipework that'd collect heat, I thought of the backs of fridges which wouldn't be good from a thermo siphoning aspect. I did see that floorstore.org were using HDPE in their roof collector but from what I've read it doesn't transfer heat well which is essentially why I'm asking these pipe related questions.

It needs to be able to pick up heat well from the roof (and/or in the solar panels) but not transfer it into the surrounding air until it gets underground where it can transfer it into insulated gravel pits. I will insulate the pipework as it travels through the room on its way underground.

The biscuit boy]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=451 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=451 Sun, 08 Jul 2007 21:11:33 +0100 Aguillar These days it seems there are options beyond the cheap Chinese versions or the expensive Proven ones...
The [off grid] site is an exposed hillside, with planning permission for a 11m wind turbine and a projected average wind speed of 4.4m/s at 10m. No neighbours for a long way.
Many thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=493 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=493 Sat, 21 Jul 2007 12:38:21 +0100 Winne with regards,
Wah Wah]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=492 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=492 Sat, 21 Jul 2007 11:45:19 +0100 MarkH http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=347 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=347 Mon, 04 Jun 2007 17:51:32 +0100 Keith Hall
Lots of clips and joiners but no Boards - but they are easily available from any builders merchant.

I also have a number of brickies profiles for sale. They are erected at the corners of the walls so walls can be raised without having to build corners first. They are about 20 years old and use simple bolting method into the bottom courses. I'll post a pic if anyone is interested.


Questions?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=489 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=489 Thu, 19 Jul 2007 21:06:25 +0100 dilangar or visit their web site]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=434 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=434 Tue, 03 Jul 2007 23:28:49 +0100 Neil K
Does anybody know of a suitable small unit that comes able to take air directly from outside the house, burn in it, and then put it out the flue? The idea being that the burner will not be using the air from the house which will then need to be replaced by air from the cold outside (i.e. needing to ventilate our nice airtight house)

Can anybody point me to a supplier.... or even warn me off following any problems/experiences with this?

Thanks,

Neil]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=397 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=397 Sat, 23 Jun 2007 09:21:49 +0100 Rachel We are hosting an open day at our 2 storey loadbearing straw bale house. It is the UK's first. The day will focus on 'sustainable living', with talks from AECB's Chris Lord Smith and Rachel Shiamh. There will be stalls and info on many aspects of sustainability, with lime consultations,Green Building Press, local produce, plus a chance to see the house. This will take place in St Dogmaels, Pembs. Entry; £5-£3. All welcome. For more info; quietearth@ukonline.co.uk]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=466 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=466 Thu, 12 Jul 2007 14:31:37 +0100 nigel
Cost £65 for the W/E or £35 per day incl camping.

The weekend event will include:
Exploration of simple ecological building techniques using straw bale, clay and lime render.
Demonstration and hands on training event led by Amazon Nails, the UK's leading practitioners of Straw Bale construction.
Opportunities for talks and discussions on design and sustainability.

This course is being put together as part of a wider aim to build Cloud Gallery by a group of Shropshire artists.
It will be a sustainable visual art gallery with striking eco design.

For more information you can call Sheilagh Jevons on 01746 785026 or email info at huwpowellroberts.co.uk]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=450 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=450 Sat, 07 Jul 2007 09:27:51 +0100 bobirving http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=486 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=486 Wed, 18 Jul 2007 12:57:36 +0100 arthur http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=490 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=490 Fri, 20 Jul 2007 14:53:21 +0100 Mike George
My question is this? Which petrochemical products are acceptable for use in the building industry. In particular, is it okay to use insulation derived from oil while condemning the use of upvc windows? Are there other oil based products which are acceptable? Has anyone considered a ranking order of 'plastic' no-no's

My opinion is that I would much prefer to use naturally derived products, not oil based ones. However the reality is that these are often unaffordable or impractical in use. Hence, I use them.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=485 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=485 Tue, 17 Jul 2007 22:25:11 +0100 Alan2 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=484 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=484 Tue, 17 Jul 2007 14:03:55 +0100 Hibernian Winters - Using a heat exhanger (so the 2 systems remain isolated and the sealed system gets heated by the open system)
- Using a neutraliser (I've been told this would work, but I don't understand how!)
I can't use a thermal store because I have nowhere to put one!
Has anyone out there tried to link an open system with a sealed system where different pressures exist? I can't find anyone who's actually done this and I don't really want to spend heaps on something that might not work!
Has anyone got a system like working in the real world?

Thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=480 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=480 Mon, 16 Jul 2007 10:42:41 +0100 SteveF Within a couple hours of a rainstorm, I have damp appearing on the internal walls on the exposed side of my property. Pretty soon this causes plaster to drop off.
The walls have been cavity filled.
I've had two builders in.
One suggested hitting the wall with a lump hammer to help the cavity insulation settle.
The other suggested that the cavity trays were probably damaged and that the outer walls should be sealed with a water repellent sealent.
I'm a bit nervous about doing this as once done it cannot be undone !

I'd welcome any advice/feedback on the pros or cons of using a water repellent sealent in this way.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=458 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=458 Wed, 11 Jul 2007 09:02:15 +0100 dave123
Thinking out-of-the-box, what in reality would actually happen if all this wonderful talk was put into action?
I for instance (apart from my ongoing discussion on solar water heating) have done everything I can to reduced my electric and gas bills by about three quarters of the norm (just a rough estimate).
Could you imagine how devastating that would be to the government coffers, if every household in Britain were to do the same?
Three quarters of their tax on energy (oil, electricity, and gas) would disappear. And that is only the start.
God forbid that we should get a really efficient bus and rail service that is cheap and affordable that would keep us out of our cars (I travelled on the Belgian rail service last year, and I couldn't believe how clean and efficient it was, even the air conditioner had air freshener incorporated) think of the tax they would lose on fuel, I'm not sure how much tax they charge on fuel nowadays, but I bet it's a massive amount.

“Let Britain lead the way” I wonder why I don't believe them?

Perhaps I'm being cynical. If all the above were to happen, we perhaps, wouldn't be able to afford to go to war quite so often.
Maybe they could go back to the daylight tax

I will let others discuss the merits of alcohol and tobacco taxes (if we tax it high enough people will stop smoking and drinking, do we really live on the same planet?) To name just a few.

That is it I have had my rant for today.

Dave]]>