Tue, 19 Dec 2023 03:54:43 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17874 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17874 Thu, 22 Jun 2023 14:24:45 +0100 maxsm I'm also interested in whether there are any external blind options for rooflights as the project involves a loft conversion. I'm hoping someone on this forum can advise on their experiences with these options, and names of possible manufacturers. Cost is also a factor so maybe that rules out the motorised blinds?
Thanks in advance for any advice, M]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17860 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17860 Thu, 08 Jun 2023 15:09:19 +0100 billyb_1234
I'm also finding it difficult to find an installer with suitable knowledge in the Reading (Berkshire) area. Many insulation companies offer PIR insulation, or spray on insulation, with no mention of airtightness membranes and hygroscopic materials. I have considered doing it myself, which would help a lot financially but at the end of the day I want it to be done once and done right, and I haven't done any of this kind of stuff before. I was wondering if anyone can recommend any nationwide installers that would do a good job on this?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17856 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17856 Tue, 06 Jun 2023 12:53:15 +0100 gustyturbine http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17873 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17873 Wed, 21 Jun 2023 10:54:15 +0100 Osprey
I am planning to have the cavities filled (eps beads) of my detached house. This will leave a cold bridge at the wall plate (see attached) and possibly mould at the tom of the bedroom ceilings (I assume). I am also planning to replace the roof.

What is the best way to remove the cold bridge at the wall plate? Ideally, something that the roofers could install.

Thanks for any help!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17855 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17855 Sat, 03 Jun 2023 11:48:27 +0100 Victorianeco
And what would a rough cost and timescale be to get up to say 2-3m in height?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17834 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17834 Thu, 11 May 2023 12:39:14 +0100 Osprey
I cannot find any company even willing to quote for the work (except for spray foam). Even the company the local authority use for grant-funded insulation work will not do it, and suggest DIY is the way to go.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17866 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17866 Mon, 12 Jun 2023 11:39:41 +0100 wholaa
I have a Vent-Axia MVHR and although I have grown to love MVHR I have noticed it does have tendency to run continuously on boast on damp rainy days like today. has anyone else noticed this and thought of possible solutions given that they can be loud on boost? Do more expensive brands avoid this some how? I am not sure if the damp air is through open windows being summer time or via damp intake air from outside.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17869 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17869 Mon, 12 Jun 2023 21:58:16 +0100 Victorianeco
In order for the property to work for us as a family we would either need to go into the attic and add 2 bedrooms upstairs, possibly turning into a gable roof and adding dormers or we add a side extension...

What sort of method would be cheaper/better in the long run?

The dormer conversion would potentially give us decent sea views also

The bungalow itself is on a footprint of12m x 12m, the existing ridge line is only 2.5m central to the property. The length of each hip is about 7.8m

Does anyone know what the usable roof area space would be using a quick calculation?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17871 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17871 Fri, 16 Jun 2023 13:02:39 +0100 owlman http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17798 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17798 Tue, 28 Mar 2023 13:48:35 +0100 Osprey
Would it be worth adding 50mm EPS EWI (ie get a substantial insulation improvement)?

I realise the pebbledash would need smoothing for good EWI attachment. More than 50mm EWI would be difficult for various reason.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17859 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17859 Thu, 08 Jun 2023 08:11:21 +0100 gustyturbine http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17854 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17854 Sat, 03 Jun 2023 10:22:55 +0100 fostertom http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17829 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17829 Thu, 04 May 2023 11:10:54 +0100 alm
I'm finally ready to order the boards and get insulating our loft bedrooms. It's a room in the roof on a hip, so I've got three pitches and a central horizontal section. I'm only doing under the rafters as the rafters are only just 50mm. I'll be trying my very best, but inevitably I think I'm going to struggle to make all the different angles meet flush on the insulation boards. I'm sure this is a basic question for a lot of you, but are there any recommendations for filling any gaps between the boards, just to keep the thermal qualities as much as possible. I know foam is an option, I'm not a big fan, but I will use it if its the only way. I was also worried about it expanding to touch the roofing underlay.

Any tips greatly appreciated, I've already got lots of others from reading through the forum but can't find anything on this in particular.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17867 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17867 Mon, 12 Jun 2023 19:36:14 +0100 owlman I smell a rat as the letter at first quick glance looked like something official, obviously deliberate. I'm guessing they are a sort of middleman creaming off a % from contractors who are registered with them.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17751 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17751 Thu, 23 Feb 2023 11:00:16 +0000 gustyturbine I've not been here for a long time for various reasons but since I've finished my first self-build I'm now doing another self-build!!
I aim to do things slightly differently this time. Last time I went as far as the budget would allow with insulation etc and a GSHP. It's done well but these days electricity isn't cheap as we know.

I'm in Wales.
I want to install solar PV with micro-inverters. From what I can gather the panels are fairly similar efficiency wise when cost is taken into account. The weakest link is the inverter. That's my micro-inverter thinking so if one fails it doesn't knock the whole system off. So, roof or ground mount? I have land available for ground mount. I think that without PP I'm limited to 3Mx3M so that's too small. I was aiming for 10kWish as we also have an EV. I'm also thinking of battery storage to cover the evenings following charge during the day.
I'm on the coast with 3 acres so I'm thinking my COP on an ASHP might be better than a GSHP considering the milder climate on the coast. It's also cheaper but the ASHP unit may corrode in time due to the salty atmosphere. I'm probably 1/2 mile to the beach.
So many questions. UK climate, triple glazing or double. I'm fitting MVHR. Good window companies that aren't too expensive? UK based?
Many thanks all.
It's good to be back :bigsmile:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17865 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17865 Sat, 10 Jun 2023 22:50:41 +0100 Jeff B
Approx overall dimensions are: Ht: 1900 mm Diam: 550 mm.

I will upload a photo and a key to connections as separate files.

The store has three coils: a 12 metre finned coil, two concentric 6 metre finned coils (total length 12 metres) and one solar coil.

It was used in conjunction with a biomass (wood pellet) boiler and solar thermal panels and supplied (indirect) a conventional wet central heating system.

From new it was dosed with Fernox AF10 biocide to prevent microbiological growth. After decommissioning the store contents were tested for Legionella by a professional laboratory and no Legionella organisms were detected. A certificate for this is available.

Due to its size and weight the store would need to be collected by the intended purchaser. It does have the facility to attach a suitable hook to the floor of the F&E chamber for lifting purposes.

For sale: offers around £600.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17863 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17863 Sat, 10 Jun 2023 17:14:49 +0100 cjard http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17853 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17853 Fri, 02 Jun 2023 11:21:01 +0100 greenfinger
My house needs some lead work at an abutment. The wall is stone (random rubble), so it's undulating rather than flat. Also, the wall is rather banana shaped. As such, I imagine the slates won't sit tight up to the wall and there will in fact be various size gaps between the slates and the wall, and these gaps will expose parts of the soakers beneath. I hope that all makes sense!

In all I've seen and read, flashing - when with soakers - tends to be just vertical. In my head it would make more sense to have an L shaped flashing given what I tried to describe above. If it was just vertical, it would almost encourage water into the gaps on onto the soakers. I appreciate that's what they are there for. But with an L shaped flashing, the horizontal section would direct water away from the gaps at the intersections, and onto the slates.

Just wondered what people's thoughts are on this please? As it's not commonly done like that, I just wanted to check I'm not overlooking something.

Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17862 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17862 Sat, 10 Jun 2023 15:14:38 +0100 Jeff B
Some problems were encountered
The requested discussion could not be found.

I have written a brief description but then referred to a WORD file for more details. Is attaching the WORD file the problem?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17864 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17864 Sat, 10 Jun 2023 20:29:59 +0100 djh http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17181 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17181 Mon, 06 Sep 2021 12:22:28 +0100 modernvictorian
Anyhow, in the interim I have been getting on with trying out the insulating plaster (Bauwer light). I have had some success so far (as a novice) and half tempted to keep going given the quotes I have had back for application to external facing walls. Another factor is that massive surplus I now have - the original order contained 90+ bags of out of date Light which were replaced but old stock not removed. The old stuff is not great but useful for filling in big holes etc.

So far I have completed two walls in the kitchen area so that the plumber can get going. Applied 40mm-ish of the Light render, and then Bauwer Finish embedded in mesh. I used a speedskim to flatten top layers. The final result is not bad but I had trouble getting a smooth finish on the Bauwer Finish coat. It does contain some cement so maybe hardens faster than a pure lime based plaster? I am looking for recommendations on what to use a skim coat over the Bauwer. I know Nick has mentioned the Baumit plasters as being very user friendly so I am looking in that direction. Ideally something I could use all around the house i.e. over both the Bauwer, some areas of WF, and also plasterboard (after appropriate primer). Does such a thing exist? Also any tips on how to finish (timings!) as most of my web-based learning is from guys using either multi-finish or pure lime putty, not much inbetween.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17861 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17861 Thu, 08 Jun 2023 20:30:48 +0100 tony
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wxloyxxv0d24139/IMG_4202.HEIC?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z041enazu080ov6/IMG_4203.HEIC?dl=0

Free to collector - goes on free cycle next weekend]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17858 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17858 Wed, 07 Jun 2023 20:17:27 +0100 CX23882
- the option of an external fly (or solar mesh) screen.
- microventilation or night vent position

Screens:
For fly screens, it seems that the majority of tilt and turn windows on the market now incorporate a drip-bar at the bottom of the opening panel/sash, meaning that retrofit screens that sit within the opening won't work (I'm talking about the semi-permanent clip-in type that allow the window to be closed with the screen in place).

MIcroventilation:
One useful feature of typical UK casement and awning windows is the night lock position, which allows for the window to be locked with a small opening. Some continental tilt and turn windows provide a "microventilation" position on the handle, where it is moved between the tilt position and turn position, and it allows a small opening for ventilation. I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere in marketing material.

Even better than a fixed small vent position would be the option to variably restricting the tilt amount simply via the main mechanism, without the need for supplementary limiters. My biggest concern is the risk to cats becoming stuck in the open "V" between the frame and sash. Being able to limit the opening to no more than 1 to 1.5cm at mid-height would mitigate that. Has anybody come across that?

Finally - can anyone share their thoughts on the benefits of "tilt before turn" versus "turn then tilt". I assume that "tilt before turn" is less wear and tear on the mechanism if you predominantly use the tilt mode. To me, the idea of turn then tilt is "aesthetically" correct - handle horizontal to turn open, handle vertically-up to tilt, and down to lock; and this is the way I've seen most windows operate in person (admittedly only a handful).]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17096 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17096 Fri, 18 Jun 2021 13:27:16 +0100 revor http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17857 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17857 Tue, 06 Jun 2023 14:27:10 +0100 greenfinger
Following on from my lead replacement thread... In the same area of roof, we have a hole in the sarking board and felt from where a flue was removed. While the slates are off to redo the leadwork, we'll be looking to put this right as well.

I've just been up to measure and it is 11mm thick.

The existing is ply. Can I use OSB for the repair or would it be best to stick with the same and use ply? I note ply tends to be 12mm whereas 11mm OSB is readily available (not sure how much 1mm difference would matter though?). If OSB is suitable, what type/grade would I need? I'm don't really know anything about OSB to be honest...

Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17792 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17792 Thu, 23 Mar 2023 12:32:10 +0000 revor http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17821 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17821 Sun, 23 Apr 2023 15:32:25 +0100 Rex
I only seem to ask questions relating to somewhat trivial things, and here is another.

Our rooflights are Fakro and too high to open/close by hand, so have the Fakro ZST pole to hook over the handle to twist open or closed. As is frequently the case with poor design, it is designed to save material rather than be sufficiently strong to last for as long as necessary.

Consequentially, one of the two supports had fractured and I have been researching the best way to fix and reinforce. Then I found the SuperGlue and baking soda solution. Whoever, the solution certainly hardens but does not adhere to the plastic so I have chipped it off.

There is an expensive solution, buy another pole which cost a mere £50. I am very reluctant to pay that sort of money when I only need a small plastic bit when the pole is perfect.

Which leaves with seeking some advice on GBF. Grateful for any thoughts.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17849 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17849 Tue, 23 May 2023 12:37:53 +0100 Kenny_M Unventilated void under stairs, in the pic, causing problems in the hallway.

Interested in thoughts on what to do about it.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17818 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17818 Thu, 20 Apr 2023 10:55:42 +0100 WillInAberdeen
"almost all newly installed heating systems in Germany should run on 65% renewable energy from 2024, both in new and old buildings.

"Houses could also use heat pumps that run on renewable electricity, district heating, electric heating or solar thermal systems

"The government will offer a subsidy of 30% for residential properties occupied by owners and 10% extra if the owners opt for an earlier climate-friendly heating switch...
Homeowners who receive income-related welfare benefits could get 20% extra subsidy"]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17842 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17842 Mon, 15 May 2023 22:26:50 +0100 Dominic Cooney As a long time GBF member I would have liked to externally insulate, but this isn't going to happen for various reasons. So this leaves internal insulation.
We would like to achieve Passive House levels of insulation and airtightness.
The existing concrete floor will have to come up and be dug out, EPS in the floor should be straightforward.
But what to do with the walls and roof?
Considerations so far include I-beams for the walls with either EPS or rockwool between. Would we need to leave a cavity between this and the existing structure? Drained? OSB for racking, with a membrane facing the cavity?
We quite fancy OSB as the internal face, to avoid plasterboard and skimming. All services could be surface mounted for an industrial feel and for ease of alteration in future. I expect we may need a sprinkler system due to open plan kitchen, dining, lounge etc?
I have been playing about with U-values, which is easy enough, but I'm struggling with the finer points of construction details.

The GBF hive mind is powerful and varied, so any ideas or suggestions would be gratefully received.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17831 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17831 Mon, 08 May 2023 12:13:31 +0100 marsaday
We have cast iron boxed guttering which leaks at the joints. So this needs attention. We also have a fair bit of rotted wood on the fascia and mouldings. I have only been close to the guttering in one place, which is at the side of the building where we have a fire escape. So i have seen bits of it, but cant assess the whole thing.

Next year we are going to scaffold the front and sides (maybe the back if we have enough money) and will be tacking this job.

I am unsure what is the best course of direction to go in. We want to improve the leaks obviously, but also need to think about future maintenance / painting.

I just wondered if anyone here has done something similar and how they tackled the job. I have a few options:

1) Repair the cast and create new seals at the joints. Remove them to sand and repaint and also sand and repaint the wood fascias plus sort out any rot.

2) Replace the cast with aluminium and treat the wood fascia in the same way.

3) Go all PVC and use the cladding option on the wood and then use pvc guttering. I have seen pics of a guy who has done this on his older building and it looks good. The pvc also means no painting in another 10 years time.

I have a feeling I will be the one who ends up doing this work as the quotes to do it will be very high. Our scaffold quote is £1200 and that is for the front and half the side. Next year we will have more money in the kitty so we have decided to tackle it then and we can then scaffold the rear plus the other 50% of the side. By doing it myself I will be quite a bit less than a company doing it.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17851 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17851 Wed, 31 May 2023 20:58:38 +0100 djh http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9455 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9455 Thu, 16 Aug 2012 13:14:57 +0100 TimSmall
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/book/export/html/17147

... unless anyone knows differently, and you can now get lower global warming potential (GWP) XPS without dropping the k value too?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17837 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17837 Thu, 11 May 2023 22:10:22 +0100 bogal2 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17570 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17570 Sat, 17 Sep 2022 12:58:53 +0100 michaelf
https://ibb.co/YhVksGX

The room is early 20th century, solid walls (approx. 330mm) and a double layer of slate damp proof course (the concrete slab appears to breach this looking from at heights from the outside. There are two visible air bricks, one above and one below the slates so I assume the concrete was a late addition.

Without wanting to rip up the slab, does anyone have suggestions as the best way to insulate - ideally reusing as many floorboards as possible and replacing the ones that are damaged when lifting but happy for alternative recommendations.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17847 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17847 Sat, 20 May 2023 13:16:57 +0100 revor Part of the crop is protected with ultrasonic device which seems to work but range is not good. Anyone got any experience they can share?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17848 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17848 Mon, 22 May 2023 09:31:32 +0100 WillInAberdeen
A disused masonry chimney has a disused spiral flue liner in it. The inside of the flue liner is ventilated at the top through a chimney cap, but the space inbetween masonry and flue liner is not ventilated, there is damp that might be condensation.

Other disused chimneys have airbricks in the old fireplaces, but aside from the air leakage problem, there is no access to this fireplace from the inside, or to remove the spiral liner or infill the chimney.

I am thinking of putting airbricks top and bottom of the masonry chimney to ventilate it out through the outside wall, then IWI. Anyone got experience/pros/cons/alternatives?

Thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17845 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17845 Fri, 19 May 2023 12:12:41 +0100 selly
How much would I ruin the fabric of the building if I dot'n dabbed insulated plasterboard onto the internal walls?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17828 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17828 Wed, 03 May 2023 11:55:09 +0100 Rex
Not a building question, specifically, gardening!

We have a 4x1 tanalised timber edging between the garden and the gravel drive. It lasts around 5 years before completely disintegrating. In the past, I have painted with creosote (5 years)l old engine oil and then Ducksback timber treatment (5 years.)

This time, I am considering not treating but fixing some black plastic on the back where the timber is in constant contact with the soil and then some Ducksback on the visible, above ground timber.

My kinda question is, timber rots due to the contact with the damp soi (or course, it also rots because it is a rubbish material!); but plastic will not prevent water ingress and could assist in containing dampness.

Given that I am on a budget and all other options are very expensive, is there a preferred method to prolong the life of the timber?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17844 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17844 Fri, 19 May 2023 09:47:13 +0100 fostertom http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17846 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17846 Fri, 19 May 2023 12:58:38 +0100 selly http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17841 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17841 Sun, 14 May 2023 21:50:46 +0100 Swarm
I didn't have the sense to plan for this when the MVHR was installed and have been looking at ways to modify it cheaply and easily, to reduce PM levels.

My first attempt was using fairly large vacuum dust bags on the MVHR room outlets. This worked fairly well and after a couple of months the insides of the white bags have turned grey. Unfortunately, I share the house and can't live a hermit lifestyle and there's inevitable questions about why we have bags / pillows on our ceilings!

I'm thinking of changing the MVHR system to have a DIY box in the attic, which would contain an IKEA air purifier.

This would be on permanently and probably attach to the distribution box for all the room outlet. My reasoning for using a purifier is that the 14W fan could help maintain a good airflow from the main MVHR unit to the rooms. If I just put a filter there, the main fan may have to work hard.

Concerns are it could be fiddly to set up and the IKEA fan probably isn't designed for 24/7 use and could possibly be a fire risk.

Another option I suppose could be to build quite a large filter array of 2/3 filters horizontally and just have that inline without any additional fan, as the increased surface area would be less resistance for the main fan.

Any thoughts from folk wiser than me much appreciated.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17840 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17840 Fri, 12 May 2023 19:19:36 +0100 mitchino
I've found I can glue, cut, file, sand and paint them and get a good result, but I'm concerned about the dust and bits I'm creating and the environment.

I know they use expanding foam to build sets in the movie industry, how do they get around the problem? And if I am to use polystyrene or the rigid insulation, which one is the least bad for the environment?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17835 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17835 Thu, 11 May 2023 14:18:12 +0100 JayC
Can anyone recommend a professional close to the Cambridge are?
I'm specifically looking for someone who can inspect a 'green' new build and report on its design and any failings/strengths.

Some background: My son has recently moved into a new build c/w ASHP, solar PV and MVHR.
The house is constructed using, what looks like, a type of SIP panel with an additional 50mm of graphite EPS; to take render. Marketing material claimed 50% more air tightness than a traditional build, but his permeability test shows 5.41m3h @50Pa. (Technically better than BS but not really in the spirit of the development) EPC is A (for what its worth)

1st issue: His electricity bills, for hot water, seem quite high @£200 per month (2 people) He has been advised to leave the HWS flow temp at 44degc
2nd issue: The house is hot on the West side and rarely drops below 24degc and were not even close to the hottest part of the year -I feel it should have had some shading?
3rd issue: The controls are a mess - Its all based on Samsung Smart Things but none of the devices seem to communicate. He has no idea what, and when, his solar PV is generating the room thermostats are basic with no comms back to the hub, and they have installed some standalone sensors to track temp/humidity etc.

Many thanks,]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17839 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17839 Fri, 12 May 2023 18:05:37 +0100 tony http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17811 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17811 Sat, 15 Apr 2023 19:07:28 +0100 Victorianeco
It's a 2 bedroom bungalow with hipped roof, looking at adding a dormer and possibly double extension if possible.

Something I've always been interested in (architecture design) but never really persued it

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17836 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17836 Thu, 11 May 2023 16:03:01 +0100 borpin
My take is that the whole building would have been damp before the insulation was fitted. Once fitted, the inherent dampness couldn't escape causing the issues.

I suggest that, once installed, the whole building needed to be subjected to intense de-humidification and then small dehumidifiers fitted to maintain the RH (as folk tend not to ventilate sufficiently).]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17833 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17833 Wed, 10 May 2023 18:46:45 +0100 blubb
I am retrofitting an MVHR system (1927 two-storey property with Zehnder Q350 and Lindab ducts).

I was thinking of using the disused chimney flue (18 x 18 cm) from a former gas boiler as the return duct to bring the exhaust air from the ground floor to the MVHR system in the loft. Are there strong arguments speaking against this solution? Has anyone tried doing this?

I'd appreciate hearing additional thoughts about this!

Many thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17832 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17832 Wed, 10 May 2023 09:32:18 +0100 Dan Barlow
Its a 210L Advanced Appliances multi fuel thermal store, its connected to Ideal 40kW combi boiler which also still supplies some of the hot taps and a fairly old 14kW (5 to room, 9 to water) Hunter Herald stove. The TS runs my central heating (radiators and underfloor) and the remainder of the DHW (mainly the bath). I will use the immersion heaters too once solar is fitted.

All seems to be working generally as it should it terms of controls, when the stove is lit the pump runs and depending where the thermostats are set the boiler switches off.
However the TS is suppose to operate at 75-80 degrees according to the instructions, but im struggling to get it up to that temperature using the boiler or the stove, 60-65 is more realistic. The boiler is set on max temperature (80 degrees) but unless i run it flat out for hours on end the TS seems happier at around 65 degrees.

Im not sure if i was expecting too much from the back boiler stove but even after several hours with a good fire the output temperature is still only 60 degrees. The TS has a blending valve which controls the flow back to the stove which according to the instructions should be set at 55-60 degrees. It is a multifuel stove so maybe im not getting anywhere near the maximum output burning wood and would need to burn coal which im reluctant to do. Ive experiments with various pump speeds for the stove pump and also tried closing the valves to the heat leak radiators which is plumbed between the flow and return but im still not able to achieve more than 60 degrees.

Any help or advice would be much appreciated

Details of the Thermal Store:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UX1O1kcvo1Q&t=13s

https://www.advanceappliances.co.uk/product/70-multi-fuel-universal-thermal-store-sfuts/]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17799 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17799 Tue, 28 Mar 2023 14:22:47 +0100 Rex
Having installed a replacement wash basin and therefore new silicone, decided to remove and re-silicone the bath and shower. Can't believe how such a little bit of renewal makes the bathroom look fresher.

However, the grout is looking a little jaded. Have seen the 'grout paint' and read various comparison reviews but am sceptical.

What is considered the 'best' to get the grout back to fresh and perhaps white again?

Thanks and toodle pip]]>