Tue, 19 Dec 2023 04:06:49 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17717 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17717 Fri, 27 Jan 2023 14:16:16 +0000 Artiglio
I’m working my way through a renovation of a listed barn/oast, been a building on the site since around 1750 though how much of what’s here today is open to interpretation, it’s been much altered over the years.

Works so far have incorporated wood fibre bonded to external walls and baumit lime plasters, suspended ground floors have wood fibre and added airflow.
Now i’ve arrived at the ground floor in what was part of the barn. After removal of the 1980’s screed a couple of test pits show 3” of old concrete (probably around 1900) , 4” of crushed chalk , then 24” of made up ground mix of crushed chalk , clinker , soil. The bottom of this seems to be a compressed floor , possibly the original barn floor. Excavation for a foundation, uncovered an existing spread brick footing with air bricks suggesting that at some time the area had a suspended ventilated floor. This wall was not tied into the barn walls at either side so seems to be a later adaption and had air bricks stamped “doulton lambeth” and date 1858-1910. The building was repurposed in 1907 so this may tie in.
The area was last altered in 1980 (prior to this the area had been a handymans workshop and feed store for stables since the early 60’s), a liquid dpm between the slab and screed. Rear external wall has an exterior ground level 400mm higher than internal floor , this was similarly painted in liquid dpm ( wall is a mix of flint, brick and rendered partially on interior) then battened 25mm of glassfibre , polythene ( badly fitted) then plasterboard.

Stripping all this back reveals absolutely no signs of damp or rot. My preference is for a timber finished floor covering. ( previously the floor was finished with varnished cork tiles in the living area and a melamine type tile in the kitchen.)

The conservation officer is in the retain as much of existing as possible camp but is open to reasonable well argued options and has been very amenable to date. Costs are becoming very much an issue and saving on labour is becoming the easiest way to restrain the budget. A full blown excavation , foamglass, limecrete floor is whilst not impossible going to severly constrain the rest of the project. The simplest and most easily reversed option is 50mm max pir and a 22mm for the floor ( this is not much more than the screed i removed, any greater thickness of insulation is impractical due to two 9” deep beams running the length of the room) , external walls treated with bonded woodfibre as before.

Any suggested floor makeups? Is the simplest solution asking for problem in the future? My other post looking for a discussion revolving around the benefits of “dry” substrates having insulation benefits , was in relation to the infill in what was seemingly at some point a suspended floor.

Heating is gas boiler and oversized radiators , for a bit of future proofing and move to ashp.
There will be mvhr , more for continuous ventilation and negating the need for fan outlets in bathrooms ensuites etc than heat recovery as achieving really good levels of air tightness is unlikely , with the retention of existing windows and doors along with the timber frame remaining on show where possible and its likely movement as the place finally dries out properly.

Any thoughts / insights appreciated.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17707 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17707 Fri, 20 Jan 2023 15:04:04 +0000 andyman99
https://octopus.typeform.com/EVchargers?utm_source=OEVpage&_ga=2.13028276.2048100522.1674226008-504967900.1674226008&typeform-source=octopusev.com

They have 3 different charger options:

Ohme Home Pro
Wallbox Pulsar Max
MyEnegyZappi II

Anybody known the pros and cons of these different chargers? I don't have any Solar capability atm but I'm considering this and so would want to ensure good PV integration was available if possible.

Thanks

Andy]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17713 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17713 Tue, 24 Jan 2023 11:23:30 +0000 Simon Still
https://www.cam.ac.uk/research/news/insulation-only-provides-short-term-reduction-in-household-gas-consumption-study-of-uk-housing

I've not looked at it in depth but seems to point to a few things to me -
- our housing stock is terribly insulated so many people live in cold houses
- retrofit isn't being done well enough. (our regulations should be tighter)
- energy is (or at least was) too cheap.

Anecdotally people have been turning down their heating this year - the staff in a DIY store I was in recently were saying they'd had a big increase in people seeking remedy for damp (likely as a result of reducing heating input)]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17182 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17182 Wed, 08 Sep 2021 10:19:05 +0100 lineweight
Does anyone have any others to suggest, or a clear favourite?

For me, I need something either online or spreadsheet-based, or an application that runs on a mac.

Obviously reasonable accuracy is important, but so is user-friendliness, and the ability to save calculations would be handy. I'd be willing to pay for something (not loads) that was better than any of the free options.

Something that will give you a useful dew-point calculation is also good.



​​https://www.vesma.com/tutorial/uvalue01/uvalue01.htm

http://www.thermalcalconline.com/u-value-calculator/u-value-opaque/u-value-opaqueExcel.html

https://www.changeplan.co.uk/u_value_calculator.php

https://www.ubakus.com/en/r-value-calculator/

https://www.yourspreadsheets.co.uk/u-value-calculator-to-bs-en-iso-6946.html]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17715 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17715 Thu, 26 Jan 2023 09:59:17 +0000 Shevek https://ak-develop.com/app/2019/08/29/ThermalTransmittanceCalcEn.html]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17213 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17213 Wed, 29 Sep 2021 12:56:25 +0100 bogal2 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17705 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17705 Fri, 20 Jan 2023 13:21:19 +0000 Simon Still
Fairly small one - probably 60x30. 240V. Daylight white.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17708 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17708 Fri, 20 Jan 2023 17:42:42 +0000 Rex
I don't know how to add multiple photos to one post so will have to add them individually.

Browsing my local DIY store and looking at my favourite tool, plunge saws.

McAlister and Ebauer. As far as I can see, they come from the same factory, every screw, moulding shape is the same, just different coloured plastic and but priced £110 and £160.

Interestingly, both have a plastic locking tab and in both cases, it was broken. And these have not even been used in the work environment.

I don't need one (have a Makita) but cannot see what one gets for the £50 extra.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17671 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17671 Mon, 19 Dec 2022 10:47:26 +0000 Rex
I have a two bed first floor maisonette that we rent out. It is double glazed, original (minimal) loft insulation, an old Potterton boiler that does not go wrong. The gable wall is cavity insulated, the front and back are not as the external wall is tile hung.

I read in today's paper that new legislation will require me to achieve a minimum EPC level to be able to continue to rent it out.

Certainly, the loft could be improved relatively easily but at a cost to storage space as the floor level would have to be raised.

The boiler would cost an arm and a leg as it is currently internally and new boilers (I believe) have to be on an external wall which would imply a virtually complete new plumbing.

When the elderly couple on the ground floor took advantage of a government scheme to subsidise the cavity wall insulation, they took up the offer and I had to pay for the first floor gable wall to be done, as the insulation company would not do half the wall. But they would not insulate my front and back as the walls are tile hung.

Given that I do not want to replace the old boiler as it is regularly serviced and never goes wrong, and that the external tile hung walls will be are very difficult (expensive?) to insulate, what am I , and I guess, many, many others expected to do to achieve the EPC level?

Thanks and have a Cool Yule]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17704 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17704 Fri, 20 Jan 2023 12:29:23 +0000 Rex
First off, a word of support to Ideal Standard for their amazing service. I have IS basins, baths toilets, etc and although had them installed for the past 12 years, on one wash basin the glaze is starting to craze. of course, well outside any warranty, but I contacted the IS CEO and they have very kindly, sent a replacement.

However, that is not the purpose of this thread.

I am also replacing the push-pull lever operated plug. On the current one, the chrome plug unscrews to remove it, and the cross-shaped centralising bit just pulls out from the threaded part. Easy to clean.

The replacement is slightly different in that the same cross-shaped centralising part is also threaded at the base. What I don't understand is a/ why? and b/ how does one clean it if the entire lever has to be removed from under the basin?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17701 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17701 Tue, 17 Jan 2023 12:32:03 +0000 BenM
I was just wondering if anyone has any recommendation for a wireless temperature gauge?

I’d like to be able to monitor my thermal store temp while not at home; and ideally monitor and record what’s it’s doing over a period.

I have a vacant gauge opening on the tank to place a temp probe in.

Any info would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Ben]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17678 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17678 Fri, 23 Dec 2022 00:18:01 +0000 Coverley
This is a topical post - getting the xmas stuff out of the attic reminded me about upgrading our loft insulation! Here's my embryonic plan ....

Our home is a timber framed house with brick outer leaf built in 2002. There is usually a small amount of condensation on the underside of the roof membrane in winter but on v cold days that drips causing small puddles on items stored up there.

Existing insulation is 200mm rockwool between 100mm high bottom chord of the rafters, ie a gap along the top of each chord.

The central third of the attic is boarded with T&G chipboard on the 100mm timbers so the 200mm insulation here is compressed to 100mm.

The roof has truss rafters at 450 cc with W shape infilled diagonals. Overall plan is 10m x 10m.

I'd like to boost the insulation and also try to improve vapour control.

1 - Vapour control & air tightness

We have plain plasterboard throughout the house, ie no foil backing. The rafters sit on the stud walls hence the top of the stud walls are visible which are obvious air leakage routes.

There is polythene behind the external wall plasterboard but nothing on the ceilings. The edge of the external wall poly is visible from the attic so I could tape along the wall header to join a ceiling vapour barrier to that.

Ignoring the boarded central third, I could pull back the existing insulation on the outer thirds to run a vapour barrier on top of the ceiling plasterboard and over the rafter chords. There would be difficult details where the inner diagonal infill meets the bottom chord. Also at the eaves where the bottom chord oversails the wall to form the eaves.

Is condensation a risk where I will get an inevitable air leakage where the diagonals meet the bottom chord, and where the bottom chord oversails the wall at the eaves?

2 - Extra insulation

Is it worth getting a higher density insulation to provide a bit of a diurnal thermal buffer? This is going to be most noticeable on hot summer nights. If so, I think it more effective to have that under the existing rockwool?

If I don’t go for a vapour barrier how thick can the insulation be before i need to worry about a dew point inside the insulation?

3 - Boarded area

The central third of the W truss is boarded with 22mm T&G chipboard. I suspect this has very low vapour permeability and I could glue 100mm PIR on top then glue 12mm board (OSB for price) on top of that without concern for interstitial condensation?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17667 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17667 Wed, 14 Dec 2022 15:34:41 +0000 Chendy
Any recommendations on which brands/models to look at or avoid?
Naturally, I want all the good stuff, like high ACTUAL efficiency, low cost etc.
Recondemations along this line are helpful.

But, thinking people here can provide guidance to the less google-able aspects.
Like, reliability, service support, flexibility/ability to interface with third party controls etc.

Any tips appreciated!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17699 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17699 Mon, 16 Jan 2023 20:24:43 +0000 wookey
Is there a name for the bulge on the sort of wall that is wider at the bottom, typically the bottom 0.5-1m, usually on fairly old buildings? Any of: the wall-type, the bulge itself, or the shelf/slope on top?

Most bits of buildings have names, but I just failed to find one for this.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17694 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17694 Thu, 12 Jan 2023 14:12:06 +0000 Mike1
There's an easy-ready version on the MIT website: https://news.mit.edu/2023/roman-concrete-durability-lime-casts-0106 and the scientific paper (not behind a paywall) is at https://www.science.org/doi/10.1126/sciadv.add1602]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17691 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17691 Mon, 09 Jan 2023 15:03:02 +0000 Osprey
For instance, my local installer claims to use Evobead, which claims to have the appropriate 0.033 W/mK thermal rating, but just seems to say the beads are 'grey'. Otherwise, I need to go to a local branch of a national company for e.g. Thermabead 'carbon bead', or similar.

My normal preference would be to go for a local company.

Anybody have any thoughts/knowledge on this? Thanks.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17687 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17687 Mon, 02 Jan 2023 09:13:56 +0000 tony
I have a problem with this philosophy, what if they are wrong?

If or when they are wrong then that is when I have a big problem.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17689 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17689 Fri, 06 Jan 2023 11:50:14 +0000 jwd
We have a stone 1800s terraced cottage in SW Scotland. It is listed and in a conservation area. I have a very low budget but I need to replace carpets on the ground floor after a flood from a burst pipe. It seems like a good opportunity to add at least some insulation. Because ceilings are low already I am limited to a couple of inches maximum for the total build up. I cant afford to dig up the slab and also wouldnt be able to cope with the disruption as we would need to move out and there is no alternative temporary housing in the area.
My plan is to use a foam or wood fibre insulation covered by a chip board or fibreboard layer. What I am not sure about is what would be the best insulation to use (pur, polystyrene, wood fibre) and where to put the vapour barrier.

Any help would be very gratefully received.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17683 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17683 Sat, 31 Dec 2022 10:44:09 +0000 Rex
I have a low wattage MR16 dimmable halogen cable light with four bulbs that I would like to 'upgrade' to LED. When I last checked, it seems that it is necessary to exchange the transformer.

But all the numbers are confusing me and not sure what I should be looking for. Is it possible to just do a straight exchange, the same way if exchanged the 240v halogen downlights for LED bulb replacements? Or is it more complex then this?

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17688 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17688 Tue, 03 Jan 2023 08:17:25 +0000 thebeacon
I’m currently working out the U-value for the garden room I plan to build.

I see that the UK building regs stipulate that the values below should not be exceeded:

• External walls: 0.30
• Roofs: 0.20
• Floors: 0.25

My build’s internal floor space is 14sm, which means I don’t have to abide by building regs values, that said I would like to try and at least meet them.

I have been using the Ubakus (https://www.ubakus.com/en/r-value-calculator/?) to help work out my values. My values read as:

Walls: 0.310
Roof: 0.242
Floor: 0.270

These are close to building regs, but they do seem slightly high. I thought using 90 and 100mm pir insulation board would be adequate, particularly because it has such good values.

Have I made a mistake with my calculations? Or would you consider these about, right? I feel like I’m already adding more insulation than what most off the shelf garden rooms have in them.


Below are how my walls, roof and floor are built up.

Wall:
INSIDE
12mm ply
1mm Vapour control membrane
100x47mm stud (400mm centres) with 90mm PIR board insulation
11mm osb3
1mm tyvec firecurb membrane (or similar)
25x50mm timber batten (vertical) 400mm apart
25x50mm timber batten (horizontal) 400mm apart
20mm timber cladding
OUTSIDE

Warm roof:
INSIDE
170x45 roof joist
18mm osb3
1mm Vapour control membrane
100mm PIR board insulation
11mm osb3
3,2mm EDPM
OUTSIDE


Floor:
INSIDE
18mm plywood
1mm Vapour control membrane
150x47mm timber joist with 100mm PIR board insulation between
Osb3 board]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17686 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17686 Sun, 01 Jan 2023 11:59:44 +0000 Nick Parsons http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17684 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17684 Sat, 31 Dec 2022 12:29:02 +0000 Coverley
My in-laws have a mix of heating systems:

- Oil fired boiler - they are thinking of switching to air source heat pump in the near future
- Downstairs wet UFH in nice thick conc slab with wood flooring throughout. Upnor manifold, stats in each room & Upnor programmer.
- Bedroom wet rads with manual TRV and mech stat on landing. The mech stat is influenced by the hall UFH heating the stairwell. Rads have their own programmer.
- Electric UFH in bathroom and ensuite. Use individual heatmat programmer
- Hot water cylinder. Uses the rad programmer

They want one box that sorts out all of the above instead of the separate units.

Most of the time the house in balanced through trial and error but overshoot is an issue upstairs at night. I think this is due to heat coming up from the ground floor.

The landing stat isn't particularly useful, they tend to manually turn it up and down to trigger the rads circuit on or off. To be honest 9 months a year the rads aren't doing much work because the downstairs UFH keeps the house cosy. They'll nudge the stat up on a cold evening to warm the bedrooms and that's when the overshoot happens, so they end up calling for more heat and opening windows on the coldest nights.

I'm thinking along the lines of:

- Electric TRV in bedrooms to get rid of the landing stat problem.
- Predictive/compensating controls to avoid the overshoot caused by the UFH/rad interaction.
- It'd be nice to get the bathroom/en suite electric UFH on the same controller but to be honest they don't cause an issue and just sit in the background.
- Work well with current oil boiler (high peaky output) and future air source (low steady output)
- Online access - they go away a lot and then come back to cold house in winter with UFH that takes 12 hours to heat up so need to switch this on in advance. They're nearly 80 so do get very cold when the house is cold.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17675 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17675 Thu, 22 Dec 2022 11:56:54 +0000 thebeacon
I am currently drawing the design for my garden room in Sketchup. The roof spans 3500mm and has a fall of 270mm from the front wall to the back wall. This gives me a 4.4 degrees (092:12) roof pitch. It means the roof is slightly steeper pitched than a flat roof.

My question is, should I plan to cut in birdsmouth joints on the rafters or cut the wall joists at the angle? I plan to use truss clips on the rafters. Just wondering what the best practice would be in this situation.


Thanks in advance]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17680 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17680 Sat, 24 Dec 2022 11:53:00 +0000 Rex
The slab of my house is one-piece, poured concrete with rebar reinforcing. The garage floor is the original poured concrete surface.

When I park the car having been driving in the rain, inevitably, pools of water accumulate around the wheels, and of course, do get absorbed into the concrete.

To date, there is no evidence of the rebar rusting but is there anything I should be doing to prevent it rusting? Or after 12 years, is it already too late?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16020 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16020 Sat, 09 Feb 2019 01:09:43 +0000 Jeff B
Most of the failures were due to rain and salt ingress into the casings (we live about 1 mile from the sea). I have a plan to take all the microinverters off the roof, install them in a weatherproof enclosure at ground level and run the necessary cables up to the panels on the roof. We are in a bungalow so the distances are not huge - probably the longest run would be about 6 metres. It's a long shot but I wonder if anyone on the forum has ever tried to do this and if they have any comments? You may have comments even if you have never done this - I'd be grateful to receive them as well. Basically can anyone see any flaws in this approach?

The big advantages would be that all the inverters would be in a dry enclosure and also would be accessible from the ground - I could change them myself rather than have to hire access equipment and pay a solar PV electrician to get up on my roof!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17679 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17679 Fri, 23 Dec 2022 18:12:07 +0000 TimGS
The loft ( https://flic.kr/p/2o7tmSb ) contains approximately a thimble full of insulation ( https://flic.kr/p/2o7oKWK ) between c. 175mm joists. Adding more insulation, and probably floorboards for storage, is straightforward enough, but the dormers are an issue as is the ventilation (or otherwise).

The black sheeting between the rafters and wood sarking on the pitched sections ( https://flic.kr/p/2o7tmSb ) is two layers of impermeable and not at all breatheable plastic sheet with a thin layer of polystyrene between. It doesn't quite reach the bottom of the loft ( https://flic.kr/p/2o7stah ) and the view looking up from the lower end, so you can see the polystyrene sandwich, is here https://flic.kr/p/2o7tMto . There appears to be no obvious ventilation in the loft apart from that accidentally provided where an old waste pipe once went through the gable end ( https://flic.kr/p/2o7ssXD ). I don't know what is above the wood sarking or whether it is breathable, but it is likely to be as built in 1974. Due to the 'dormers' there are no eaves here, so no eaves ventilation other than any that might exist at the front of the dormers due to the next issue.

(There is also some pink matting visible above the wooden sarking boards in https://flic.kr/p/2o7tmE2 but I suspect that is connected with the current or previous dormer roof and may not extend very far upwards.)

Due to the 'dormers' not actually being dormers, with the upper floor being really a box shape with pitched sections added afterwards, the spaces above the dormer ceilings are connected to the loft ( https://flic.kr/p/2o7r8ez ). This is the view along one such void https://flic.kr/p/2o7oKPf . From outside we can see that there are soffit vents around the dormers, so there may be a connection from these vents into the loft, but that's speculation/presumption as we can't see what happens at the end of these spaces i.e. the outside upper edge of the dormers.

In addition to the main loft I'd like to insulate the dormer roofs also, as they represent a substantial proportion of roof area. The dormer roofs where recovered in 2014, and based on the paperwork we have, the EPDM rubber sheet is on top of 50mm of Kingspan Thermaroof which is in turn on top of the chipboard which forms the top of those spaces that are visible from the loft i.e. https://flic.kr/p/2o7oKPf .

If the loft is indeed ventilated via these spaces and the soffit vents on the dormers, then I can't really see how the Kingspan above the dormers is doing much - as it lies above these presumably ventilated voids - and neither can I see the point of the (presumably original as it's between rafters and sarking boards) black sheeting/polystyrene combination in the main loft.

Insulating the main loft is easy but the practical conundrum appears how to insulate above the dormers whilst maintaining the speculated ventilation via the dormer eaves? At this point in time disturbing the plasterboard ceilings isn't a practical or feasible option.

Initially I considered pouring loose fill insulation into these voids, leaving a 50mm air gap, but without being able to see clearly what happens at the far ends, I'm concerned I may end up blocking the soffit vents. On the other hand, and since starting to write the above, I had a look at the easiest to access soffit vent, which pulled out and revealed not much ventilation at all, so perhaps I'm worrying about blocking an irrelevancy? See https://flic.kr/p/2o7uNzb.

I also considered coaxing rockwool into the spaces, but there are wooden battens and cables in the way.

Another option is to just insulate the main loft as best I can now, leave the dormers, and at a later date insulate the ceilings from inside the house, though that would loose headroom.

Flickr album at https://www.flickr.com/photos/87684784@N02/albums/72177720304689913/with/52580880272/

Currently the loft is dry and shows no sign of dampness. Despite the northerly latitude it's a relatively dry climate here, being in the rain shadow of the Highlands.

Ta in advance for any suggestions.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=443 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=443 Fri, 06 Jul 2007 10:12:05 +0100 biffvernon
http://www.nsg-spacia.co.jp/spacia/summary.html]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17663 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17663 Mon, 12 Dec 2022 09:56:39 +0000 ComeOnPilgrim http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17655 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17655 Mon, 05 Dec 2022 10:53:08 +0000 WillInAberdeen
Has anyone found a good gap-sealing goop that stays sealed for many years?

Ideally it would be paintable and allow a little movement.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9867 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9867 Thu, 29 Nov 2012 17:45:10 +0000 aa44
Due to a mistake on my part, the I-joists are only 195mm deep and so the distance from the top of the joist to the top of the fibreboard will only be about 135mm. I could probably compress 200mm of insulation in there but i don't think that it would have the same effect! As far as I can see, the best way round the situation would be to treat the joists as traditional solid joists and insulate down to the bottom of the joist.

My question is whether there is any benefit in still using the fibreboard under the joists or whether a combination of netting and battens (perpendicular to the joists) would have a better effect. I am intending to put a plastic vapour barrier on top of the joists under the chipboard floor. The crawl space will be draughty (we're in Shetland) but should be pretty dry.

If I go down the netting route, has anybody got any recommendations on what type of netting to use? Most things here get attacked by the salt air so I'm not sure that chicken / rabbit wire would last. Does strawberry netting last forever?

Thanks for any input.
Andrew]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17650 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17650 Fri, 25 Nov 2022 22:07:43 +0000 cjard
Feed in tariffs have gone, but apparently if I pay a large sum of money for a Tesla powerwall and join octopus I get paid the same 28p to export to the grid as I do to import

Do I have to get some particular certification to have this deal, i.e. does the TPW have to be installed by some particularly approved person who will sell it to me at some wallet-searing rate?

How does the payback look against some other battery storage system and a strive to self-generate and use as much myself as possible, minimise grid imports? Do I use lithium or lead batteries?

In terms of charging these battery storages up, I'd imagine that most of the world has gone bananas for solar, with the ever spiralling upwards costs of electricity so the costs of panels are probably higher than what they were..

..looking around ebay I see various kit secondhand and new - seems that 450 to 550 watt panels come in at around 225 to 275 quid so the wattage is about double the money.. Used kit is e.g. a 260watt panels for a hundred quid so perhaps slightly better value at watts that are 2.5 times the money, but do they wear out? Are these older lower wattage panels worth considering or are they approaching end of life already?

Then we have other stuff like inverters and mounting systems. Inverter per panel is reckoned to be the best way to go, but there's a premium for it, and it might be hard to justify for me as I don't really have a lot that could shade any panels I install - no trees etc. Mounting rails might be something I can build myself; i've never looked to see whather they're expensive for what they are.. Do we have full and free flex to pair any inverter with any panel and mount in any way? Or are things sold as paired up systems and you're better off getting all the bundled kit together? If microinverters are used do they phase align themselves so they "just work" when all connected together, even from different manufacturers?

Can I install panels myself and get them MCS signed off? Do I need them to be signed off if I'm in "minimise taking from the grid" mode? Do I need them to be signed off if I'm securing an SEG tariff and exporting (the export part is Tesla's problem, I think - who cares how the Tesla is charged up)?

What sort of ratio of panels power to battery storage kwh capacity do I need? How do I translate the kwh eon say I used in the last N years into a sensible kw sizing of an array?

Imagine it's ridiculously windy where I live too - can domestic wind turbines usefully add to this system? How do they rate, £ per watt, compared to panels and do they feed into the same/similar inverters?

So many questions.. What I'm looking for ultimately a relatively easy route to minimising electricity bills as something of a curiosity about whether I could get e.g. a 2 year payback on an install cost in light of energy costs having risen to be 3x a month what they were when I first started living in this house - some of that is increased usage, the rest is a doubling in price per kwh]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17633 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17633 Fri, 04 Nov 2022 12:28:49 +0000 lineweight
But without doubt it has the most awful, outdated, infuriating forum interface I post on, anywhere on the internet.

Will it ever get updated?

I don't think I need to list the multiple things that are wrong with it - surely anyone who uses it knows.

I would post here more often and contribute more if the interface was brought up to the basic minimum standards we expect in 2022. Not just because the experience of using it would be more pleasant - but because there are things that actively prevent me from using it, as it is. For example, it's almost impossible to use on a phone screen. Other seemingly minor things that make it very easy to miss responses on threads you're interested in. How easy it is, to write a lengthy and detailed reply and then accidentally lose all of it in the stroke of a keypress.

It must put off potential new users too. Without new users the only direction is withering and death.


If it would be expensive to upgrade to modern forum software - how much? I'd potentially be willing to contribute to a crowdfunded effort.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17658 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17658 Thu, 08 Dec 2022 20:57:07 +0000 marsaday
I need to dig out the gully and want to move it to the right so it is a bit more away from that corner.

This house was converted into flats in 1965 so I think the drain set up was changed then. Originally there was a door into the cellar next to the old clay pipe.

Question: what coupling do I use to connect into the clay pipe. I want to connect when it is in the vertical position and then I will add backwards in plastic. I will probably do the last leg of the downpipe in plastic as well and angle it at 45 degrees to the right.

My other worry is, could the soil pipe wedged in the corner also connect into this gully and so use the large clay pipe? Or will that go all the way to the bottom and hit the floor with its own pipe?

Ps. I am trying to load a photo to help you, but struggling]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17665 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17665 Tue, 13 Dec 2022 20:54:21 +0000 bxman http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17662 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17662 Sun, 11 Dec 2022 10:40:53 +0000 ComeOnPilgrim http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17661 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17661 Sat, 10 Dec 2022 13:10:08 +0000 lsx
I have some upvc window units that for various reasons I would like to be moved inwards (towards the inside of the house) within their reveals. I was thinking of asking on here about the benefits of doing this, but I've realised even if it turns out to be a good idea, I'm not sure who would be able to help me carry the work and also whether changing an installation is allowed by someone who's not fensa approved.

I'm thinking the task is:

Remove inner trim panels
Remove glazing
Remove frame fixings securing frame to building
Move frame unit 15mm inwards
Refix frame to house using existing holes in frame
Refit glazing / trims.

I'm guessing window firms won't be interested as they're not supplying. I've looked for independent window fitters, but I just can't find one in West Yorkshire.

Any advice on who might be able to help would be appreciated]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17659 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17659 Fri, 09 Dec 2022 15:49:15 +0000 modernvictorian
Also should I fill all of the eaves space with insulation? I am a bit worried about blocking the ventilation path under the membrane (although Proclima say the full space under the membrane can be filled with insulation).]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17657 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17657 Thu, 08 Dec 2022 09:31:33 +0000 borpin
At the same time I added in an in-line air filter to remove more of the crud before it got to the unit. This is an un-insulated galvanised metal box.

All the pipe work to/from the unit is the flexible insulated type. The unit itself is in a sort of wardrobe/storage room that does not have any specific ventilation (ironic).

Outside temp is around freezing and has been for a while now.

Just had a check of the unit, and noticed condensation on the outside of the filter box. Some of the flexible pipe also feels 'heavy' - my suspicion is that the insulation has got saturated.

My feeling is that the humidity in that cupboard/room is too high (I have put a sensor in there to measure it - only suggesting 50% RH currently). I suspect I either need to introduce a dehumidifier in there, or actually fit a ventilation 'extract' for that room (relatively easy to do.

My other thought is that the condensation on the outside of the box, is being wicked by the insulation - the 2 layers of tin foil, has insulation between them. Inner tinfoil tube is taped to the spigot. The end of the insulation is left exposed so damp air could be getting in there. No vapour barrier effectively.

Thoughts / suggestions?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17656 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17656 Wed, 07 Dec 2022 10:50:03 +0000 1980scotland
I have a 14kw Ecodan ASHP. Had a lot of issues with the original installation, but has worked ok over the years. However, I am wondering if I can run it more efficiently. I currently have 5 zones with individual thermostats and ufh and then the upstairs which has radiators on a separate circuit. These are all fed into a heatmiser control unit and then into the Ecodan unit.

I have adjusted the compensation curve over the last year or so, but I have read with interest those who manage their house temperature fully from the compensation curve (heat geeks etc). If I understand correctly, they do away with the individual room thermostats and have the whole system open, trying to balance input with heat loss. I suppose my question is - how low a temperature have some of you gone on the compensation curve. Mine currently runs at 37 at zero degrees or below. Wondering if I can go a good bit lower, set all thermostats to a high temp so they are constantly on and see what happens?

The other thing I wondered is how a wood burner would influence this kind of setup. I have a wood burner in the lounge. Use it during the day and evening if we are in. Some days not at all depending on movements. How do you accommodate this input into the system setup?

New thoughts appreciated - trying to get electricity bill down to a manageable level!

Cheers]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17654 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17654 Sat, 03 Dec 2022 10:34:36 +0000 Rex
Not construction but a building insurance question.

We lived in and still own a first floor maisonette; have had it around 20 years. Around five years after purchase and while living there, we had to make a subsidence claim. Crack in the external wall and the entry porch was literally hanging from the wall. Could get your fingers under the DPC.

The cause was the neighbouring leylandii which the insurance company 'encouraged' the neighbours to remove. The cracks were monitored for 18 months, repaired and the porch replaced with a 1m deep, solid concrete foundation.

In the intervening years, there has been no sign whatsoever of the cracks reappearing, so safe to assume, it is fixed.

However, when it comes to insurance renewal, having to check 'have you every had subsidence' box, and it is not possible to get a quote. Result is that I am left with whatever premium the original claim company want to quote.

Is there any way around getting renewal quotes without lying by saying that there has never been a subsidence claim? How long does a repair have to be known to be successful before it is considered 100% fixed?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17586 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17586 Wed, 28 Sep 2022 20:49:35 +0100 fostertom http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17644 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17644 Thu, 17 Nov 2022 15:23:49 +0000 fostertom but only starting 2025, on top of recent extension of ECO to £5bn over the present 4yrs.
Where's the catch, apart from total lack of trained workforce?

"The Energy Saving Trust has said that installing 270mm of insulation, in a home with none, can cost between £455 and £640, depending on whether it is terraced, detached or a bungalow." Cheap at half the price.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17651 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17651 Sat, 26 Nov 2022 08:23:30 +0000 fostertom
But I see some alternatives to Therm. In particular, free Energy2D https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2kSU06829g . Has anyone tried it as alternative to Therm? Geometry creation and parameters input seems radically easier than v tricky old fashioned Therm and as the video shows, gives graphic illustration of moving heat distributions. Incorporates input such as solar.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17652 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17652 Mon, 28 Nov 2022 19:02:57 +0000 vord
I'm working from a concrete floor from 1920 that once had a much thicker parquet and has the bitumen over much but not all of the surface.

Is there an opportunity to use the 18mm to insulate a bit, and if so what material could I use?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17645 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17645 Fri, 18 Nov 2022 20:16:47 +0000 WeeBeastie
Certainly seems to be the case in my suburban area. One stove installer I spoke to had four times as many installations lined up than usual for the time of year. Evening and weekend walks have more smoky spots.

I see some work that doesn't meet building regs, with flues terminating near opening windows or roof surfaces.

New stoves may well have to be EcoDesign but if more and more of these are installed and used (plus people reviving legacy stoves and open fires) then pollution is bound to rise.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17649 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17649 Wed, 23 Nov 2022 15:32:14 +0000 fostertom https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2022/nov/23/tidal-stream-energy-costs-ebb-reliability-flows
I had no idea.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17639 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17639 Sat, 12 Nov 2022 23:22:45 +0000 daveking66
I have some full bags of Isovit E-Cork left from a project that now need to be disposed. Can anyone advise how to responsibly dispose them? Should a decent local authority dump be able to handle them? I’d be grateful for any advice.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17648 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17648 Tue, 22 Nov 2022 13:19:19 +0000 Simon Still
The Uplighter has very limited space and I concluded they wouldn't fit, and bought another Halogen (the last one in the house, but for a light that was almost never used). Now the lamp is being used, thebulb failed and I looked again and found these Phillips bulbs. Only available up to 900lm/60w equivalent but how do they work - theres clearly no space for any electronics in there?


https://ibb.co/pvP9zLJ
https://ibb.co/BfGYFLQ]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17642 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17642 Tue, 15 Nov 2022 12:42:14 +0000 Rex
I have too many differing screwdriver bits, including a set of security torx.

But I don't have a tamper proof hex set and all my Google searching, only brings up torx bits with a hex shank.

My question is, based upon the arrowed bit, what is it called so that I can find a long reach version?

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17624 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17624 Mon, 31 Oct 2022 08:03:26 +0000 kristeva
This is most likely a stupid question but knowing precious little about boilers I've made an assumption about the answer for a number of months now!

Where a combi boiler is configured to provide central heating and hot water for bath/kitchen, etc, is there any reason why you can't shut down the central heating but continue providing hot water to services?

At some point I'll need to shut down and drain my CH for building work. The simpleton in me just assumes you turn a few shut off valves to isolate the CH.]]>