Tue, 19 Dec 2023 08:32:56 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17643 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17643 Wed, 16 Nov 2022 11:36:06 +0000 Peter_in_Hungary
Some thoughts

Heat load for the coldest month (kWh) / 30 = CH power demand for a day

CH power demand for the day / (how many hours ? ) = size of heat pump for CH.

DHW is fairly constant throughout the year so a daily consumption is easy find so –

DHW power demand for the day (kWh) / (how many hours ? ) = size of heat pump for DHW

But is the CH load on top of the DHW load or do you target the hours run so that e.g. CH needs 10 hours run time and DHW needs 5 hours run time = 15 hours run time a day so that the heat pump needs to be sized only for the greater of either load.

Playing with the target run times for each of the CH and DHW will alter the planning size of the heat pump.

But what should the target run times be ?? And how much spare should capacity be built in ?

Or have I got it all wrong?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17674 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17674 Tue, 20 Dec 2022 21:09:05 +0000 chrisjackson184
Does anyone have any experience with 'Airex' smart air bricks, particularly in relation to suspended wooden floors?

https://www.airex.tech

They seem an interesting idea, but not sure how real the benefits would be or if there is a better way (without ripping up the floor to insulate).]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17686 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17686 Sun, 01 Jan 2023 11:59:44 +0000 Nick Parsons http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17685 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17685 Sat, 31 Dec 2022 22:44:47 +0000 Newbuild http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17681 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17681 Tue, 27 Dec 2022 12:42:06 +0000 alm
Sorry, this is a bit of a lazy question on my part. I'm getting ready to insulate our roof, at rafter level. The rafters are very thin, so the plan was to just fix 150mm celotex under them, taped and sealed, battens and then plasterboard.

I've also seen some comments on using EPS instead, and how this might be a better material. Would anyone recommend one over the other for this detail?

The EPS appears significantly cheaper, I know the U-Value will be slightly less which I'm happy to accept, are there any other disadvantages?

Cheers]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17684 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17684 Sat, 31 Dec 2022 12:29:02 +0000 Coverley
My in-laws have a mix of heating systems:

- Oil fired boiler - they are thinking of switching to air source heat pump in the near future
- Downstairs wet UFH in nice thick conc slab with wood flooring throughout. Upnor manifold, stats in each room & Upnor programmer.
- Bedroom wet rads with manual TRV and mech stat on landing. The mech stat is influenced by the hall UFH heating the stairwell. Rads have their own programmer.
- Electric UFH in bathroom and ensuite. Use individual heatmat programmer
- Hot water cylinder. Uses the rad programmer

They want one box that sorts out all of the above instead of the separate units.

Most of the time the house in balanced through trial and error but overshoot is an issue upstairs at night. I think this is due to heat coming up from the ground floor.

The landing stat isn't particularly useful, they tend to manually turn it up and down to trigger the rads circuit on or off. To be honest 9 months a year the rads aren't doing much work because the downstairs UFH keeps the house cosy. They'll nudge the stat up on a cold evening to warm the bedrooms and that's when the overshoot happens, so they end up calling for more heat and opening windows on the coldest nights.

I'm thinking along the lines of:

- Electric TRV in bedrooms to get rid of the landing stat problem.
- Predictive/compensating controls to avoid the overshoot caused by the UFH/rad interaction.
- It'd be nice to get the bathroom/en suite electric UFH on the same controller but to be honest they don't cause an issue and just sit in the background.
- Work well with current oil boiler (high peaky output) and future air source (low steady output)
- Online access - they go away a lot and then come back to cold house in winter with UFH that takes 12 hours to heat up so need to switch this on in advance. They're nearly 80 so do get very cold when the house is cold.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17628 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17628 Wed, 02 Nov 2022 11:58:58 +0000 barge17 For years I have been keeping a monthly record of our usage on a simple spreadsheet, screenshot attached. But it messy because each month I have to start a new row four rows down from the last month's, then copy and paste the formulae into the middle row between them.

There must be a much tidier way of doing this. 20 years ago I used 'MS Works" and it had a database section where you could make a "card " or something which automatically transfered the figures to a spreadsheet, which could then in turn do some calculations and then generate graphs, etc

I would also like to include units such as Therms and KWH and £s to make the records more usable. I hope somone can point me in the right direction, please.

Nowadays I use either Dropbox or Google Sheets for this sort of thing and find them very good. thanks, D
.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17675 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17675 Thu, 22 Dec 2022 11:56:54 +0000 thebeacon
I am currently drawing the design for my garden room in Sketchup. The roof spans 3500mm and has a fall of 270mm from the front wall to the back wall. This gives me a 4.4 degrees (092:12) roof pitch. It means the roof is slightly steeper pitched than a flat roof.

My question is, should I plan to cut in birdsmouth joints on the rafters or cut the wall joists at the angle? I plan to use truss clips on the rafters. Just wondering what the best practice would be in this situation.


Thanks in advance]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17680 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17680 Sat, 24 Dec 2022 11:53:00 +0000 Rex
The slab of my house is one-piece, poured concrete with rebar reinforcing. The garage floor is the original poured concrete surface.

When I park the car having been driving in the rain, inevitably, pools of water accumulate around the wheels, and of course, do get absorbed into the concrete.

To date, there is no evidence of the rebar rusting but is there anything I should be doing to prevent it rusting? Or after 12 years, is it already too late?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16020 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16020 Sat, 09 Feb 2019 01:09:43 +0000 Jeff B
Most of the failures were due to rain and salt ingress into the casings (we live about 1 mile from the sea). I have a plan to take all the microinverters off the roof, install them in a weatherproof enclosure at ground level and run the necessary cables up to the panels on the roof. We are in a bungalow so the distances are not huge - probably the longest run would be about 6 metres. It's a long shot but I wonder if anyone on the forum has ever tried to do this and if they have any comments? You may have comments even if you have never done this - I'd be grateful to receive them as well. Basically can anyone see any flaws in this approach?

The big advantages would be that all the inverters would be in a dry enclosure and also would be accessible from the ground - I could change them myself rather than have to hire access equipment and pay a solar PV electrician to get up on my roof!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17676 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17676 Thu, 22 Dec 2022 12:32:48 +0000 Osprey
The kitchen internal dimensions are 4.7m x 4.7m. From what I can see through a downlight hole, the joists are around 240mm high, and are about 320mm face-to-face: I cannot see their width.

Can anyone with experience of houses of around this vintage estimate what the joist thickness is likely to be? (Don't worry, I will get a proper structural engineer in before having anything done!)]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17679 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17679 Fri, 23 Dec 2022 18:12:07 +0000 TimGS
The loft ( https://flic.kr/p/2o7tmSb ) contains approximately a thimble full of insulation ( https://flic.kr/p/2o7oKWK ) between c. 175mm joists. Adding more insulation, and probably floorboards for storage, is straightforward enough, but the dormers are an issue as is the ventilation (or otherwise).

The black sheeting between the rafters and wood sarking on the pitched sections ( https://flic.kr/p/2o7tmSb ) is two layers of impermeable and not at all breatheable plastic sheet with a thin layer of polystyrene between. It doesn't quite reach the bottom of the loft ( https://flic.kr/p/2o7stah ) and the view looking up from the lower end, so you can see the polystyrene sandwich, is here https://flic.kr/p/2o7tMto . There appears to be no obvious ventilation in the loft apart from that accidentally provided where an old waste pipe once went through the gable end ( https://flic.kr/p/2o7ssXD ). I don't know what is above the wood sarking or whether it is breathable, but it is likely to be as built in 1974. Due to the 'dormers' there are no eaves here, so no eaves ventilation other than any that might exist at the front of the dormers due to the next issue.

(There is also some pink matting visible above the wooden sarking boards in https://flic.kr/p/2o7tmE2 but I suspect that is connected with the current or previous dormer roof and may not extend very far upwards.)

Due to the 'dormers' not actually being dormers, with the upper floor being really a box shape with pitched sections added afterwards, the spaces above the dormer ceilings are connected to the loft ( https://flic.kr/p/2o7r8ez ). This is the view along one such void https://flic.kr/p/2o7oKPf . From outside we can see that there are soffit vents around the dormers, so there may be a connection from these vents into the loft, but that's speculation/presumption as we can't see what happens at the end of these spaces i.e. the outside upper edge of the dormers.

In addition to the main loft I'd like to insulate the dormer roofs also, as they represent a substantial proportion of roof area. The dormer roofs where recovered in 2014, and based on the paperwork we have, the EPDM rubber sheet is on top of 50mm of Kingspan Thermaroof which is in turn on top of the chipboard which forms the top of those spaces that are visible from the loft i.e. https://flic.kr/p/2o7oKPf .

If the loft is indeed ventilated via these spaces and the soffit vents on the dormers, then I can't really see how the Kingspan above the dormers is doing much - as it lies above these presumably ventilated voids - and neither can I see the point of the (presumably original as it's between rafters and sarking boards) black sheeting/polystyrene combination in the main loft.

Insulating the main loft is easy but the practical conundrum appears how to insulate above the dormers whilst maintaining the speculated ventilation via the dormer eaves? At this point in time disturbing the plasterboard ceilings isn't a practical or feasible option.

Initially I considered pouring loose fill insulation into these voids, leaving a 50mm air gap, but without being able to see clearly what happens at the far ends, I'm concerned I may end up blocking the soffit vents. On the other hand, and since starting to write the above, I had a look at the easiest to access soffit vent, which pulled out and revealed not much ventilation at all, so perhaps I'm worrying about blocking an irrelevancy? See https://flic.kr/p/2o7uNzb.

I also considered coaxing rockwool into the spaces, but there are wooden battens and cables in the way.

Another option is to just insulate the main loft as best I can now, leave the dormers, and at a later date insulate the ceilings from inside the house, though that would loose headroom.

Flickr album at https://www.flickr.com/photos/87684784@N02/albums/72177720304689913/with/52580880272/

Currently the loft is dry and shows no sign of dampness. Despite the northerly latitude it's a relatively dry climate here, being in the rain shadow of the Highlands.

Ta in advance for any suggestions.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17664 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17664 Mon, 12 Dec 2022 16:57:29 +0000 wookey
http://wookware.org/pics/online/greenbldg/iciclezoom.jpeg

I remember carefully sloping the vents through the wall to drain outwards if there was any water in them, but I'm wondering if that was the right answer now, because there is an internal drain in the machine, so having the condensation drain internally might be better than having it dripping down the wall/render outside. I can't remember if I just made that up or read it somewhere. I think it was recommended.

I had already adjusted the vent grills to be stepped out a few mm from the render surface so that any condensation dripped rather than ran down the wall making a stain, so I already knew that at least some of the time condensation occurs.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17669 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17669 Sat, 17 Dec 2022 12:38:12 +0000 freemp31 I have opted to mount them at ground level because my roof is E/W aligned, and the S end is shaded by trees, plus the fact that I have 3 hectares of land which is just grass.
However, to get sun for the maximum day length, the panels will need to be some 40M from the tank, which sounds like a hell of a lot of cold water needing to be circulated from the manifold before any heat gets to the coil.
A Laddomat (which I have on the accu's primary circuit from the gasification boiler) feels a bit like overkill - especially at their current price - anyone found a reliable solution to this problem?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=443 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=443 Fri, 06 Jul 2007 10:12:05 +0100 biffvernon
http://www.nsg-spacia.co.jp/spacia/summary.html]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17670 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17670 Sun, 18 Dec 2022 11:14:10 +0000 Osprey
My 1920s house has three brick chimneys. All on outside walls, all 'stick out' (so inside walls are flat) if you see what I mean.

Chimney 1: Unused. Taken down to loft floor level (under eaves). Two flues, one bricked up with vent to bedroom, one with no vent bricked up in dining room.

Chimney 2: Stack remains. One flue used, in lounge. One flue unused, bricked up with vent in bedroom.

Chimney 3: Unused. Taken down to loft floor level, as above. Masonary is half height, only to first floor. One flue, bricked up with vent in bedroom.

Complete removal would be expensive, and I am aware there would be cold bridging if they remain. iwi is not really an option. So given those restrictions, what would be best way to reduce heat loss (and prevent damp)?

Thanks.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17619 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17619 Mon, 24 Oct 2022 12:57:40 +0100 owlman If possible, I realise I would need a three-phase supply in order to get a boiler with sufficient output to feed a 2000l buffer tank. The beauty of the idea would be that everything else stays the same with only the heat source changing.
I wondered if anyone had attempted this?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17672 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17672 Mon, 19 Dec 2022 20:33:24 +0000 Osprey
Part of the property has solid floors, and I beleive they are sealed from the wall cavity, and have a tunnel to the rest of the house (suspended wooden floor). A couple more are sealed from the wall cavity, and directly access the sub-floor void. However, approx 6 air bricks are unsealed and also vent the wall cavity. The 1920s house is rendered, with a cement plinth. 50mm cavity, brick walls.

It would be very difficult to remove the airbricks from the outside, and also risk loosening the render. If I can get access from inside, via the underfloor void, would it be possible to add sleeves to the existing air bricks, sealing with eg expanding foam? Or any other suggestions.

Thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17663 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17663 Mon, 12 Dec 2022 09:56:39 +0000 ComeOnPilgrim http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17673 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17673 Tue, 20 Dec 2022 20:00:40 +0000 Elliot.ponder
Looking for some help with an IDM terra 26s heat pump.

It’s not kicking in at its minimum temperature and needs switched off and then back on (sometimes several times) to get the heat pump to fire away. Does anyone know of this problem?

It has a strange electrical fault. IDM won’t reply to any emails and struggling to find someone with knowledge of these pumps.

Elliot]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17668 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17668 Thu, 15 Dec 2022 09:57:34 +0000 Osprey
In the loft, I can see that the cavity walls are uncapped - indeed I can see no other means of loft ventilation - and the loft itself is dry. There is a good amount of loft insulation between/over the joists. There are quite a few airbricks around the property, below dpc. These connect to the space below the suspended wooden floors. I believe they also ventilate the cavity walls (no tunnel) so cold air can freely circulate through the walls and loft, with high heat loss. Obviously I want to reduce the heat loss.

1) would capping the cavity in the loft make much difference? I would need to provide other loft ventilation. I would much prefer not to use soffit vents - are other methods possible (old, tile hung with bitumen paper lining)
2)if I go for bead cwi, what happens below the floor? A fibre insulation installer said they would need to drill and install some sort of shields, at an angle, over the airbricks.
3) what happens at the bottom of the CWI? Does it go below the DPC and just lay on the ground between the walls? Doesn't that bridge the DPC?

Thanks for any help/advise!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17655 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17655 Mon, 05 Dec 2022 10:53:08 +0000 WillInAberdeen
Has anyone found a good gap-sealing goop that stays sealed for many years?

Ideally it would be paintable and allow a little movement.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17660 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17660 Fri, 09 Dec 2022 16:37:18 +0000 tony
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0e2LzadM_vBoJ-mAxu5rUx1yg

From left to right, first three pairs of semis; note the heavy frost lines above the party walls, this is nice to see as a lot get frost and snow melting here due to heat rising through the cavity. Here it probably has the required fire packing and this is insulating the tiles from the warmth in the loft allowing more frost to form and preventing it melting.

The first building with balconies has odd frost melt on the right hand high roof, presumably due to missing insulation?

The block to the right of the pylon in the background is interesting in that there is more frost round the perimeter of its roofs indicating better insulated and less well connected to the loft. I have my suspicions as to why.

The house on the far right I think is either unoccupied or unheated, looks too perfect.

For the OCD among us have a look at the fourth house from the left and notice how the frost has melted against the adjoining house. Lots of possible reasons, heat leaking up the gable wall, or is the outside skin being warmed by poor insulation in the wall of the fifth house? The sixth house looks to be warmer than the rest.

There is more, what do you see?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9867 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9867 Thu, 29 Nov 2012 17:45:10 +0000 aa44
Due to a mistake on my part, the I-joists are only 195mm deep and so the distance from the top of the joist to the top of the fibreboard will only be about 135mm. I could probably compress 200mm of insulation in there but i don't think that it would have the same effect! As far as I can see, the best way round the situation would be to treat the joists as traditional solid joists and insulate down to the bottom of the joist.

My question is whether there is any benefit in still using the fibreboard under the joists or whether a combination of netting and battens (perpendicular to the joists) would have a better effect. I am intending to put a plastic vapour barrier on top of the joists under the chipboard floor. The crawl space will be draughty (we're in Shetland) but should be pretty dry.

If I go down the netting route, has anybody got any recommendations on what type of netting to use? Most things here get attacked by the salt air so I'm not sure that chicken / rabbit wire would last. Does strawberry netting last forever?

Thanks for any input.
Andrew]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17666 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17666 Wed, 14 Dec 2022 09:42:20 +0000 Swarm
I know about units like Zehnder filter box but am nervous about fitting them to an otherwise functioning MVHR unit. Cutting pipe work etc.

Has anyone else dealt with this problem? Are such units simple to fit?

I also wondered about buying some hepa filters designed for vacuums and sealing them inside the actual room outlets. If I remove the outlet there is a plastic plenum? box that could fit a filter and I could seal around it. I thought maybe that the cumulative area of these filters over all the house outlets could be similar to one large filter next to the main MVHR. With the bonus I wouldn't have to modify the main unit pipe work.

Finding a suitable size filter is challenging but I should be able to. Worth a go maybe?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17650 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17650 Fri, 25 Nov 2022 22:07:43 +0000 cjard
Feed in tariffs have gone, but apparently if I pay a large sum of money for a Tesla powerwall and join octopus I get paid the same 28p to export to the grid as I do to import

Do I have to get some particular certification to have this deal, i.e. does the TPW have to be installed by some particularly approved person who will sell it to me at some wallet-searing rate?

How does the payback look against some other battery storage system and a strive to self-generate and use as much myself as possible, minimise grid imports? Do I use lithium or lead batteries?

In terms of charging these battery storages up, I'd imagine that most of the world has gone bananas for solar, with the ever spiralling upwards costs of electricity so the costs of panels are probably higher than what they were..

..looking around ebay I see various kit secondhand and new - seems that 450 to 550 watt panels come in at around 225 to 275 quid so the wattage is about double the money.. Used kit is e.g. a 260watt panels for a hundred quid so perhaps slightly better value at watts that are 2.5 times the money, but do they wear out? Are these older lower wattage panels worth considering or are they approaching end of life already?

Then we have other stuff like inverters and mounting systems. Inverter per panel is reckoned to be the best way to go, but there's a premium for it, and it might be hard to justify for me as I don't really have a lot that could shade any panels I install - no trees etc. Mounting rails might be something I can build myself; i've never looked to see whather they're expensive for what they are.. Do we have full and free flex to pair any inverter with any panel and mount in any way? Or are things sold as paired up systems and you're better off getting all the bundled kit together? If microinverters are used do they phase align themselves so they "just work" when all connected together, even from different manufacturers?

Can I install panels myself and get them MCS signed off? Do I need them to be signed off if I'm in "minimise taking from the grid" mode? Do I need them to be signed off if I'm securing an SEG tariff and exporting (the export part is Tesla's problem, I think - who cares how the Tesla is charged up)?

What sort of ratio of panels power to battery storage kwh capacity do I need? How do I translate the kwh eon say I used in the last N years into a sensible kw sizing of an array?

Imagine it's ridiculously windy where I live too - can domestic wind turbines usefully add to this system? How do they rate, £ per watt, compared to panels and do they feed into the same/similar inverters?

So many questions.. What I'm looking for ultimately a relatively easy route to minimising electricity bills as something of a curiosity about whether I could get e.g. a 2 year payback on an install cost in light of energy costs having risen to be 3x a month what they were when I first started living in this house - some of that is increased usage, the rest is a doubling in price per kwh]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17633 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17633 Fri, 04 Nov 2022 12:28:49 +0000 lineweight
But without doubt it has the most awful, outdated, infuriating forum interface I post on, anywhere on the internet.

Will it ever get updated?

I don't think I need to list the multiple things that are wrong with it - surely anyone who uses it knows.

I would post here more often and contribute more if the interface was brought up to the basic minimum standards we expect in 2022. Not just because the experience of using it would be more pleasant - but because there are things that actively prevent me from using it, as it is. For example, it's almost impossible to use on a phone screen. Other seemingly minor things that make it very easy to miss responses on threads you're interested in. How easy it is, to write a lengthy and detailed reply and then accidentally lose all of it in the stroke of a keypress.

It must put off potential new users too. Without new users the only direction is withering and death.


If it would be expensive to upgrade to modern forum software - how much? I'd potentially be willing to contribute to a crowdfunded effort.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17658 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17658 Thu, 08 Dec 2022 20:57:07 +0000 marsaday
I need to dig out the gully and want to move it to the right so it is a bit more away from that corner.

This house was converted into flats in 1965 so I think the drain set up was changed then. Originally there was a door into the cellar next to the old clay pipe.

Question: what coupling do I use to connect into the clay pipe. I want to connect when it is in the vertical position and then I will add backwards in plastic. I will probably do the last leg of the downpipe in plastic as well and angle it at 45 degrees to the right.

My other worry is, could the soil pipe wedged in the corner also connect into this gully and so use the large clay pipe? Or will that go all the way to the bottom and hit the floor with its own pipe?

Ps. I am trying to load a photo to help you, but struggling]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17665 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17665 Tue, 13 Dec 2022 20:54:21 +0000 bxman http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17662 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17662 Sun, 11 Dec 2022 10:40:53 +0000 ComeOnPilgrim http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17661 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17661 Sat, 10 Dec 2022 13:10:08 +0000 lsx
I have some upvc window units that for various reasons I would like to be moved inwards (towards the inside of the house) within their reveals. I was thinking of asking on here about the benefits of doing this, but I've realised even if it turns out to be a good idea, I'm not sure who would be able to help me carry the work and also whether changing an installation is allowed by someone who's not fensa approved.

I'm thinking the task is:

Remove inner trim panels
Remove glazing
Remove frame fixings securing frame to building
Move frame unit 15mm inwards
Refix frame to house using existing holes in frame
Refit glazing / trims.

I'm guessing window firms won't be interested as they're not supplying. I've looked for independent window fitters, but I just can't find one in West Yorkshire.

Any advice on who might be able to help would be appreciated]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17659 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17659 Fri, 09 Dec 2022 15:49:15 +0000 modernvictorian
Also should I fill all of the eaves space with insulation? I am a bit worried about blocking the ventilation path under the membrane (although Proclima say the full space under the membrane can be filled with insulation).]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17657 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17657 Thu, 08 Dec 2022 09:31:33 +0000 borpin
At the same time I added in an in-line air filter to remove more of the crud before it got to the unit. This is an un-insulated galvanised metal box.

All the pipe work to/from the unit is the flexible insulated type. The unit itself is in a sort of wardrobe/storage room that does not have any specific ventilation (ironic).

Outside temp is around freezing and has been for a while now.

Just had a check of the unit, and noticed condensation on the outside of the filter box. Some of the flexible pipe also feels 'heavy' - my suspicion is that the insulation has got saturated.

My feeling is that the humidity in that cupboard/room is too high (I have put a sensor in there to measure it - only suggesting 50% RH currently). I suspect I either need to introduce a dehumidifier in there, or actually fit a ventilation 'extract' for that room (relatively easy to do.

My other thought is that the condensation on the outside of the box, is being wicked by the insulation - the 2 layers of tin foil, has insulation between them. Inner tinfoil tube is taped to the spigot. The end of the insulation is left exposed so damp air could be getting in there. No vapour barrier effectively.

Thoughts / suggestions?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17656 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17656 Wed, 07 Dec 2022 10:50:03 +0000 1980scotland
I have a 14kw Ecodan ASHP. Had a lot of issues with the original installation, but has worked ok over the years. However, I am wondering if I can run it more efficiently. I currently have 5 zones with individual thermostats and ufh and then the upstairs which has radiators on a separate circuit. These are all fed into a heatmiser control unit and then into the Ecodan unit.

I have adjusted the compensation curve over the last year or so, but I have read with interest those who manage their house temperature fully from the compensation curve (heat geeks etc). If I understand correctly, they do away with the individual room thermostats and have the whole system open, trying to balance input with heat loss. I suppose my question is - how low a temperature have some of you gone on the compensation curve. Mine currently runs at 37 at zero degrees or below. Wondering if I can go a good bit lower, set all thermostats to a high temp so they are constantly on and see what happens?

The other thing I wondered is how a wood burner would influence this kind of setup. I have a wood burner in the lounge. Use it during the day and evening if we are in. Some days not at all depending on movements. How do you accommodate this input into the system setup?

New thoughts appreciated - trying to get electricity bill down to a manageable level!

Cheers]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17653 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17653 Tue, 29 Nov 2022 11:28:32 +0000 Noodle
We have a trusty (or very temperamental) pellet boiler that serves our house and a converted barn used as a holiday let. Its connected to a big 2000l buffer tank.
As its not hugely reliable after 7 years, and no very slow/ expensive service from EU suppliers these days.. we have finally installed a "backup" oil boiler that can be switched on linked to the buffer tank with the biomass switched off.

Now coming to order my 5Tonnnes of blown pellets @ £550!!!per T it works out that oil is about 20% cheaper.

My main question is if I hand over to the oil system boiler for winter, should I really bypass the buffer tank altogether so I don't waste a loads of energy heating up the buffer tank? We get thro0ugh 15Tonnes pellets a yr for a 5 bed house + 3 bed holiday let..im starting to think the system isn't working very efficiently as that equals about 8000L of oil a year..

Any thoughts appreciated.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17654 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17654 Sat, 03 Dec 2022 10:34:36 +0000 Rex
Not construction but a building insurance question.

We lived in and still own a first floor maisonette; have had it around 20 years. Around five years after purchase and while living there, we had to make a subsidence claim. Crack in the external wall and the entry porch was literally hanging from the wall. Could get your fingers under the DPC.

The cause was the neighbouring leylandii which the insurance company 'encouraged' the neighbours to remove. The cracks were monitored for 18 months, repaired and the porch replaced with a 1m deep, solid concrete foundation.

In the intervening years, there has been no sign whatsoever of the cracks reappearing, so safe to assume, it is fixed.

However, when it comes to insurance renewal, having to check 'have you every had subsidence' box, and it is not possible to get a quote. Result is that I am left with whatever premium the original claim company want to quote.

Is there any way around getting renewal quotes without lying by saying that there has never been a subsidence claim? How long does a repair have to be known to be successful before it is considered 100% fixed?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17586 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17586 Wed, 28 Sep 2022 20:49:35 +0100 fostertom http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17644 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17644 Thu, 17 Nov 2022 15:23:49 +0000 fostertom but only starting 2025, on top of recent extension of ECO to £5bn over the present 4yrs.
Where's the catch, apart from total lack of trained workforce?

"The Energy Saving Trust has said that installing 270mm of insulation, in a home with none, can cost between £455 and £640, depending on whether it is terraced, detached or a bungalow." Cheap at half the price.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17651 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17651 Sat, 26 Nov 2022 08:23:30 +0000 fostertom
But I see some alternatives to Therm. In particular, free Energy2D https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2kSU06829g . Has anyone tried it as alternative to Therm? Geometry creation and parameters input seems radically easier than v tricky old fashioned Therm and as the video shows, gives graphic illustration of moving heat distributions. Incorporates input such as solar.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17652 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17652 Mon, 28 Nov 2022 19:02:57 +0000 vord
I'm working from a concrete floor from 1920 that once had a much thicker parquet and has the bitumen over much but not all of the surface.

Is there an opportunity to use the 18mm to insulate a bit, and if so what material could I use?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17646 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17646 Mon, 21 Nov 2022 11:56:19 +0000 Victorianeco
Any recommendation on suppliers? I need one with easy fit pipework

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17647 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17647 Mon, 21 Nov 2022 15:13:37 +0000 Devlin
I live in a typical turn of the century Victorian 2 bed terraced house, solid brick wall etc. You've seen millions of them.

I am thinking about insulating the house, not rushing into anything and researching the best way to do this considering the type of property it is.

I've yet to come across any article or forum post that mentions this but is adding both EWI and IWI to effectively the same wall something which I should stay well clear of? So, the inside of the wall is insulated using an appropriate (breathable etc.) material, and the other side of the same wall, on the outside, similarly insulated with a suitable material.

Please bear in mind I am at the start of this journey so need to flush out these potentially silly questions from my system.

If this is a terrible idea, can you please help me understand why it would be so bad.

Thanks for the advice and help.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17337 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17337 Mon, 27 Dec 2021 14:07:30 +0000 Buz
I’ve recently had a Cordivari Combi Eco 2 thermal store installed which is fed from a Charnwood Cove 2B wood burning back boiler stove and so far not impressed.
The problem is the store just isn’t getting up to more than 40 degrees (output quote from manufacturer as wood room 4.6 boiler 6.5, anthracite room 7.1 boiler 9.3) there is a Laddomat 21-60 three way valve which recirculates the boiler water until it reaches 53 or 63 degrees (depending on which thermostat valve is installed) and then opens to allow hot water to fill the tank but I can’t get the valve to open as temperature is too low. The boiler to tank pipes are 22mm and approx 8 metres and the heat dump radiator is fed in 28mm and approx 5 metres from boiler, rad is is per recommendation on data sheet.
Do you think the boiler is man enough to supply the tank volume and the issue is elsewhere or am not generating enough heat from boiler, at the moment only burning wood but delivery of anthracite coming soon for me to test. I have had it running for approx 5/6 hours a day and 3 days straight.

Thanks in advance for any wisdom shared :bigsmile:

Cheers
Pete]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17641 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17641 Sun, 13 Nov 2022 17:55:01 +0000 Erkindik
Has anyone installed a systems like this? What sort of performance have you seen?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17551 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17551 Fri, 26 Aug 2022 20:20:15 +0100 djh
What do people think about it? I'm not too worried for myself because we live in a well-insulated PH and [I hope] we have adequate finances, but I do worry about people with minimum wages, or thereabouts, and people on benefits. OTOH I do believe energy prices need to increase significantly, and while this isn't the way I would have chosen to test it, perhaps there is some benefit to be gained. I don't know; what do you think?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17645 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17645 Fri, 18 Nov 2022 20:16:47 +0000 WeeBeastie
Certainly seems to be the case in my suburban area. One stove installer I spoke to had four times as many installations lined up than usual for the time of year. Evening and weekend walks have more smoky spots.

I see some work that doesn't meet building regs, with flues terminating near opening windows or roof surfaces.

New stoves may well have to be EcoDesign but if more and more of these are installed and used (plus people reviving legacy stoves and open fires) then pollution is bound to rise.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17649 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17649 Wed, 23 Nov 2022 15:32:14 +0000 fostertom https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2022/nov/23/tidal-stream-energy-costs-ebb-reliability-flows
I had no idea.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17639 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17639 Sat, 12 Nov 2022 23:22:45 +0000 daveking66
I have some full bags of Isovit E-Cork left from a project that now need to be disposed. Can anyone advise how to responsibly dispose them? Should a decent local authority dump be able to handle them? I’d be grateful for any advice.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17648 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17648 Tue, 22 Nov 2022 13:19:19 +0000 Simon Still
The Uplighter has very limited space and I concluded they wouldn't fit, and bought another Halogen (the last one in the house, but for a light that was almost never used). Now the lamp is being used, thebulb failed and I looked again and found these Phillips bulbs. Only available up to 900lm/60w equivalent but how do they work - theres clearly no space for any electronics in there?


https://ibb.co/pvP9zLJ
https://ibb.co/BfGYFLQ]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17642 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17642 Tue, 15 Nov 2022 12:42:14 +0000 Rex
I have too many differing screwdriver bits, including a set of security torx.

But I don't have a tamper proof hex set and all my Google searching, only brings up torx bits with a hex shank.

My question is, based upon the arrowed bit, what is it called so that I can find a long reach version?

Thanks]]>