Tue, 19 Dec 2023 06:41:01 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12019 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12019 Thu, 24 Apr 2014 20:52:46 +0100 splashie
Building our new house and we are waiting for building warrant to come in so I'm trying to get ahead with anything I can. (please feel free to suggest things I may miss!)

We have had a quote from buildstore for their structural warranty at £2500 - lots of money but is this just what you have to do now for mortgage companies? I know you can get architec certificates but from what I read they are not worth the money plus my architect could not do this anyway.

thanks :)]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12025 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12025 Sun, 27 Apr 2014 19:09:27 +0100 tony
Easy to see how cold air can flow in behind the window lining (see where blobs were) and on into the void behind the walls of the room, there are some cavity batts built into the cavity walls

The cavity had been closed with return blocks and cut bricks, these have been removed but the construction contained plenty of big holes, gaps and cracks and the bottom and top wewe both open to the cavity and soffit areas

Plasterboard tents spring to mind.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12023 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12023 Sat, 26 Apr 2014 07:06:46 +0100 hairydude
Im having my kitchen built by a local cabinet maker, cost is good but I'm doing the design legwork to produce pretty pictures which SWMBO can approve!

Cheers]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11988 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11988 Wed, 16 Apr 2014 18:51:46 +0100 djh
You may remember (or not!) that we're having a barrel-vaulted roof with large (600 mm) overhangs to help protect the straw bales. So at the verge there is a curved glulam beam at the top of the wall and outboard of that are some cantilevered sprockets to support the projecting roof (18 mm ply plus aluminium roof).

The unresolved detail is how to connect the sprockets to the curved glulam. Since the sprockets are only supported at one end there is a moment. Thoughts have included long, crossed screws at 45° or proprietary connectors through-bolted on either side of the glulam. Finding a solution that an engineer will sign off on is the question.

We can't be the first to have this situation! Any ideas?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12017 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12017 Wed, 23 Apr 2014 14:42:05 +0100 PeterW
Attached shows the buildup from the ICF walls through to the roof. These are stub ICF walls at 1.4m high, and then the rafter creates a partial sloping ceiling. To get a decent u-value the rafter section below the ceiling is partially filled with 140mm of Celotex, and then underlined with 50mm over all the rafters, with tape on the joints. Above ceiling height is 300mm of Crown wool as a standard construction detail.

My questions are these:

Does the inner EPS of the ICF wall create the VCL, and is it sufficient to tape onto it and use the foil backing of the insulation to create the sloping VCL. If so, what happens at the slope to ceiling join marked red on the drawing..? Can I just tape onto the edge noggin..? If so, where is the VCL above the ceiling..?

The original build up had mineral wool in between the rafters and required an over eaves vent tray (although the spec also showed breathable membrane....) and this was designed in to stop the crown wool bunching over the eaves - this has now moved up the rafter to the ceiling height, so should the tray also move..? IS there a requirement to have 2 vent trays, or none at all given this is supposedly breather membrane...?

I've now taken this off the architect to resolve as the u-Values he was providing were getting steadily further away from the targets, and I don't have an endless pot of money to burn to keep this warm !

Cheers

Peter]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11989 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11989 Thu, 17 Apr 2014 08:39:08 +0100 creamcheese Briefly, we obtained planning for a refurb, which included det garage with studio over (8x6.5m). The figures weren't stacking up, and we couldn't reach the desired end-result; so we applied for a replacement dwelling (highly insulated airtight, in a different position). This included the exact same garage, but in a different part of the plot. This was approved, with no conditions or removal of PD. No limit set for demolition either, so we intend to demolish half the existing house, and live in one end during the build.
So, now we have 2 sets of valid PP, so what is to stop us building both garage blocks? We could start the first planning perm and build the first garage, then demolish the house and build the new house and second garage. It sounds ridiculous, but I don't see anything in law that would prevent it. Hmmmn!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11979 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11979 Tue, 15 Apr 2014 07:48:49 +0100 Chris P Bacon
The house is 1.5 storey 215m^2 with 0.9 windows and all other u values under 0.1

The PHPP assessment suggested a heat demand of 22kWhr/m2/a or a total of 4400kWhr (PHPP considers the "treated floor area" to be just under 200m^2)

By taking our March electricity consumption when we had no heating on away from our Nov, Dec, Jan & Feb. consumption I deduce that our actual heating demand was 2,702kWhr. (That does make some assumptions about our non space heating energy use but on balance I think it is a fair assessment).

My wife's comment is ringing in my ears "I was expecting it to be cheaper to run".

All the way through the build I have made decisions on the spec. based on economic value. Nothing was chosen if it didn't offer a reasonable payback.

As we do not have mains gas and I took a personal decision not to burn wood to heat the house we were left with choosing some form of electrical heating.

The capitat cost of a GSHP ruled out any reasonable payback and with our low projected demand the payback period on an air to water heat pump was around 12-14 years probably longer than it's lifetime and allowing nothing for servicing or breakdowns.

So thus we have ended up with a simple direct electric system for space heating and DHW.

I don't have a meter on our DHW consumption so I am assuming it to be 3600kWhr/a so our total consumption for heating and DHW this year should be 2,700 + 3,600 = 6,300kWhr

So what if we had chosen to go for a lesser specification for the fabric and used the savings towards a heat pump which would be justified on the grounds of the higher demand, what would our running costs be then?

Here in the south of Sweden where the house is located the building regs demand a maximum space heating demand of 55 kWhr/m2/a

So if our house was built to the regs the space heating demand would be 215 x 55 = 11,825kWhr + 3,600kWhr for DHW gives a total of 15,425kWhr.

If this total was supplied by an Air to water heat pump with a SPF of 2.5 ( which I think is perfectly reasonable) then the total energy consumption would be 6,170kWHr.

That's marginally less than our actual usage.

The question is of course what would our savings in capital cost have been if we had just built to the regs?

Hard to say exactly but I reckon we could have saved about £4,000 on inferior foundations, possibly more, at least another £2,000 on inferior windows and doors and another £2,000 on insulation. More than double the cost of adding the heat pump.

So by building to a lower spec. we could have built at cheaper cost and had marginally lower running costs.

I do now intend to offset the majority of our electrical consumption by adding 6-10kWp of PV but ironically if I had built to a lower spec. I would have saved about half the cost of doing so.

Of course all of the above reflects our own particular set of circumstances and the figures will vary from house to house but it is perhaps food for thought for those considering a new build.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11525 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11525 Fri, 13 Dec 2013 15:02:37 +0000 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11945 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11945 Mon, 07 Apr 2014 09:20:26 +0100 owlman http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11920 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11920 Tue, 01 Apr 2014 14:44:17 +0100 Jamster
We always intended our build to have an oak-framed porch and matching fascia. Also, we hope to leave the timber untreated so it 'silvers' over time. We therefore need to use green oak as kiln dried would just readjust to atmospheric moisture levels (aka wet) - correct? I'm relatively confident about the porch anyway as we'll likely have this at least machined by a professional...

My main query is around what to use for the fascias - if we use totally green oak, will it shrink, and if so, is there a method we can use to stop it twisting my rafters as it shrinks? Finish is stone skin walls. This is also complicated by the need for a ventilated soffit! Should we use another kind of timber? The plan is to have the fascia and porches matching...

Also, does anyone a sawmill in the Durham area with a good reputation for supplying very durable timber?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11799 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11799 Tue, 25 Feb 2014 13:10:58 +0000 hebden-passive-house http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11739 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11739 Wed, 12 Feb 2014 16:48:40 +0000 Cerisy
The rafter is deeper of course and assuming that the top angle is the same as the jack rafters, how do I work out the depth of the bird mouth? It has to be deeper so the top of the hip rafter lines up with the jack rafters. Do I need to fix temporary battens on top of the rafters to establish the levels? I can only do that on one side as the other isn't made yet.

Just struggling to get my head around the practicalities of it. Any suggestions / guidance would be much appreciated.

thanks, regards, Jonathan]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11891 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11891 Sun, 23 Mar 2014 13:54:16 +0000 tony
Recently some problems have emerged and on investigation these have turned out to be more widespread and more serious than initially thought. Two thermal imaging surveys were carried out as the results of the first one could not be believed. They discovered missing insulation in walls and roofs, some roofs has no loft hatch access so could not be inspected either now or on completion of the original construction.

A very proactive group of owners has managed to embarrass the original builders who for fear of loosing their reputation are now carrying out major rectifications to the whole site most of which is under the control of a housing association using lorry loads of insulation, fitting hatches, making good missing cavity wall insulation etc

All this at their own expense before being sued or dragged through the mud in the media. I think it is all good but should not have been necessary, inadequate supervision, inspection and poor construction coming back to bite.

As I say, "it has started"]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11881 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11881 Wed, 19 Mar 2014 15:55:33 +0000 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11087 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11087 Fri, 30 Aug 2013 08:27:33 +0100 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11846 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11846 Sat, 08 Mar 2014 03:40:53 +0000 Triassic
So what would you be using that is durable? I suggested uPVC to the architects and was met with disdain.

Edited ... and not forgetting facials and soffits. Do I actually need any of these or can they be designed out?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11833 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11833 Wed, 05 Mar 2014 15:39:01 +0000 djh
Is my understanding correct? Can anybody who's lived with the windows confirm my thoughts, or tell me what I've missed?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11771 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11771 Wed, 19 Feb 2014 22:26:03 +0000 Triassic
Having watched a few videos on line, they make it look simple. Is it? Are some forms better than others? What would experience suggest to watch out for?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11819 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11819 Fri, 28 Feb 2014 21:52:20 +0000 debbiel
Thanks,
Debbie]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11777 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11777 Thu, 20 Feb 2014 14:27:23 +0000 jamesingram 80m2 , 2 bed , Basic rectangle , pitched roof , gable ends
got a local SIPS designer/builder to do shell and was wondering re. heat source etc.
I'd be keen to push him toward PH type structure.
some ideas
PV roof (as much as possible) ,mains water cylinder Immersion for HW with PV dump,
Solid fuel stove (peat) for secondary heat source (maybe Backboiler for HW back up) .
UFH in slab connected to simple electric heat source for back up.
he could go GSHP (he's not keen on ASHP(noise)) but if he could stick that budget into structure then PH might
make it unnecessary. Also gales make power cut likely.

So couple of questions.
Anyone know of PH build on Lewis etc. for him to visit or info share ?
Can SIPS be beefed up to PH standard ?
Anyone nearby with PH design experience to consult?
PV dump /immersion only for HW, is this wise given the bleak winters ?
cheers Jim]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11791 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11791 Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:23:16 +0000 tony http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11658 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11658 Thu, 23 Jan 2014 21:48:39 +0000 Steveoboy
I am currently studying BSc Construction Management at Plymouth University, and undertaking a dissertation which aims to explore self-builders opinions of the Government’s agenda for zero carbon homes by 2016.

If you have recently self-built, are currently building or plan to begin building your home, I would be grateful if you could spare 5 minutes to fill in the questionnaire accessed through the link below.

It does not matter if you do not know what the Government’s agenda is, but in simple terms (if enforced) it will require all homes built after 2016 to have high fabric energy efficiency standards (highly insulated) and possibly require the use of on-site low or zero carbon technologies, such as solar thermal panels.

https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/THLTJDJ

Many thanks, Steve]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11763 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11763 Mon, 17 Feb 2014 19:41:36 +0000 Ed Davies
With mine I've speced absolutely standard Velux and gave my house designer a bit of an earful when he changed a couple to ones which were special-order-only sizes for top-hung (needed for escape in two of those cases). Seems strange that more of these projects don't anticipate this a bit better.

Now Kevin's in the glass factory…]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11748 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11748 Fri, 14 Feb 2014 16:16:52 +0000 Jason Matthews
Allow approximately 5 person days per square metre. For example, two people building their 80m2 house, full time (2x 40 hour week) should allow 200 says – 33 calendar weeks – 7.5 months. One person building the same house part-time (say a 24 hour week) would take 133 calendar weeks – 30 months – 2.5 years. Groups are currently taking between twenty and twenty four months.
Time can be saved by spending money on subcontracts – commonly, discrete areas of work such as foundations, drainage, roofing, central heating, electrics.

(from this book: www.amazon.co.uk/Out-Woods-Ecological-Designs-Futures/dp/1898049122/ )

So I broadly take that as building 1 house, using just 1 person = 1 year 3 months.
Is this about right or is there any other known consensus?

thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11754 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11754 Sat, 15 Feb 2014 15:25:30 +0000 owlman
1. Is it wise to lay them without under floor heating, would have to be electric, space is very tight?

2. Any one got any experience as their ease of maintainance/cleaning, good or bad?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10083 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10083 Tue, 05 Feb 2013 13:15:32 +0000 Triassic
Now, a Labour MP has called on the Government to think again about how CIL payments of up to £35,000 could hinder those wish to build a home of their own.

John Mann, the Member of Parliament for Bassetlaw in Nottinghamshire states, in his Early Day Motion, that 'people are already abandoning plans to build a house because of these new taxes'.

The motion calls for a limit to be set for exemption from the taxes, to include one-off homes and, potentially some of the smaller collaborative projects, which will 'give a boost to the aspiration of people and the small businesses who lose out the most from these unfair taxes'. The motion has been signed by eight MPs, so far.

http://www.selfbuildportal.org.uk/latest-news/152-call-for-cil-exemption-for-self-builders


Maybe we should be lobying our local MP to support this motion?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9227 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9227 Wed, 20 Jun 2012 16:05:26 +0100 Triassic
I talked to a local valuer and his response was, he could not recall the last building plot he sold (no market for it), so could not suggest a current value. He did point out that a local builder had built 2 houses recently and despite being on the market for 12 months they had not sold. Properties in the road sell for around £500k on average.

He went on to suggest a couple of approaches.

The first, he suggested that builders tend to work on 1/3rds i.e. 1/3 for the plot, 1/3 for the build and 1/3 for profit, giving a land value of £167k. But he did say he felt this was too much for the plot in the current climate

The second, was to start with a local value of £500k, subtract the budgeted build cost of the proposed property (say £300k), giving a land value of £200k. Again he felt this was too much!

I know I'm asking "how long is a piece of string" but how would you value a building plot?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11718 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11718 Thu, 06 Feb 2014 08:46:52 +0000 hitormiss
Polished concrete supposedly needs at least 100mm over heating pipes.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11729 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11729 Mon, 10 Feb 2014 13:21:05 +0000 archess200 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11728 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11728 Mon, 10 Feb 2014 13:20:04 +0000 archess200 No. 3, concreted the footpath and fenced his piece of land into his garden. He also planted conifers along the edge of no. 2 and puts some plants on no.1. No. 2 cleared his piece, planted a few shrubs and tended it until he became ill and died. New owner of no. 3 then planted veg on no.2's plot, until giving up. New owners of no. 1 fenced in their piece of land. No complaints over the years, no objections from other residents, so they have held their pieces for over 12 years. We have just bought no. 2, and obtained from Parish Council the record up to the date that they offered no. 1,2 and 3 the odd bits of land in exchange for a new footpath. No further records following this, exist.
A resident across the road looked into his rights over the plot [2008], and gained agreement that he could use it as an allotment. He has planted a hedge and potatoes, and put in a loose post and wire fence which already needs replacement. He tells us that he had a huge file and did a lot of research to uncover any rights to use the plot, and got letters giving him permission, and we suspect, clearly stating no rights are conferred. He says he has done a lot of work clearing and manuring, and incurred considerable cost. The area looks very messy, he hasn't cleared all of it and there are a lot of brambles and beer cans around, and ivy breaking down my fence and no. 3's fence abutting. He agrees he has no rights, and would give up the plot for £1000.
I feel that, having been given the 'contractual' right to take the land into the garden of our new house, there is no records of this right having been withdrawn, and there were no conditions to keep the site clear, to plant it, or fence it, that have been broken over the period, that we still have this right. The new occupant states he should be recompensed for all his work, despite it having been done for his material advantage. He approached a local councillor, who sought permission on his behalf, but did the Parish have the right to reallocate it?
We feel he should not be able to sell his right, or the work he has done on the plot and that to persue this is fraudulent and blackmail. Had only been in 5 days before he brought this up, so not happy with new neighbour. This right of way also went past his property, across the road, and then petered out. His neighbour took the land over, and has since built a garage. We feel he felt that he had lost out of something he could have got for nothing - despite already owning his own large house, another bungalow, having 2 gardens and lots and lots of shed - and this is his opportunity to redress the balance.
Comments please as to how to handle this.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11698 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11698 Mon, 03 Feb 2014 08:30:10 +0000 aa44
The roof design has 150mm Kingspan-type boards between the rafters and then a further 50mm below the rafters. The boards between the rafters have been cut slightly narrow and then the gaps at the sides have been filled with expanding foam to get a good seal.

My questions are:

1. Should I tape both layers?

2. Is there a recommended overlap for the tape on to the insulation board?

Thanks very much.

Andrew]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11655 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11655 Thu, 23 Jan 2014 10:58:46 +0000 divorcingjack
Has anyone had any luck in persuading a warranty company to accept passive-ish technologies like an insulated raft foundation? NHBC and Premier didn't have a scooby what I was talking about - very frustrating hour on the phone.

The basic outcome has been - apply for the cover, then we'll see. What's the point in that!

I need a warranty as we have to mortgage the property when it's finished so we can pay back all the money we're borrowing from family to complete the build.

Help!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11670 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11670 Mon, 27 Jan 2014 19:54:11 +0000 Steveoboy
As part of my dissertation I am looking to informally interview 6 people who are soon to build, currently building, or who have recently built their house.

The purpose will be to find out a little about your house with regards to its design and any energy efficient construction or low/renewable energy technology that may be used. I would also like to get your opinions about energy efficient homes, and what their benefits and challenges are to you.

With your permission I may take a couple of photos of your home and record the interview to aid the write up. In accordance with the University’s ethical policy this data would be treated confidentially and deleted on completion of the research.

Please let me know if you are interested and I can PM my contact details. I can meet most days, at a time and place (hopefully your new build) convenient for you.

Regards, steve.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11614 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11614 Tue, 14 Jan 2014 16:58:40 +0000 calvinmiddle
I have approved plans for both a new dwelling in my back garden and an extension to the existing building. These are two separate applications.

I want to resubmit these application to change the design of the building - this is within the 12 months deadline and there has been no re submissions previously.

My understanding that every application can be resubmitted but the planning team manager is telling me that there is only one resubmission per SITE and not per application.

He said the guidance isn't clear but the site term comes from the Town and Country 1989 Act, I have argued that the planning portal says the resubmissions is per application, but he's adamant that there is a fee to pay on one of the resubmissions.

Anyone able to help me, is he right? Does it say somewhere that resubmissions fees are based off the site and not the application?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11587 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11587 Mon, 06 Jan 2014 00:17:29 +0000 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11598 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11598 Thu, 09 Jan 2014 12:10:50 +0000 Triassic
These will be visible on a “Rightmove-style” search engine of all government real estate, allowing people to search by town and postcode for anything from vacant airfields to motorway lay-bys.

Under the system – first announced last year – the applications will go before a new committee of ministers from the Treasury and Cabinet Office to consider.

They will only refuse if the location is “vital for operational use” or if there are overriding reasons. Heritage buildings such as the British Museum and Downing Street will be excluded.

“We certainly should not act as some kind of compulsive hoarder of land and property that could be better used for things like housing and local economic growth,” said Mr Alexander.

A similar system already existed, but this applied only to land owned by local authorities that was “empty or under-used”.

http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/8d136532-7888-11e3-831c-00144feabdc0.html

So if you have spotted any land you fancy self building on, owned by local authorities or the Government, just make them an offer. Simple as that !!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11566 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11566 Sat, 28 Dec 2013 21:12:24 +0000 Cerisy
Any suggestions on how I can raise the levels of the pad foundations and maintain a decent fixing for the bolts? I'm using resin anchors and can, I guess, simply increase the length of the bolts - but I wondered if anyone had encountered a similar problem?

Many thanks, regards, Jonathan]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11529 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11529 Sun, 15 Dec 2013 09:06:24 +0000 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11543 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11543 Wed, 18 Dec 2013 09:26:13 +0000 Triassic
I want to be able to compare eggs with eggs, so should I simply send the various timber frame companys a copy of the drawings and our target U value, or should I be asking for something else (particular wall cross section for example?).

Never bought a timber frame before, so not sure what I should be asking for so as to get a comparable outcome that enables me to establish which company would be best, in terms of price and quality of build.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11544 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11544 Wed, 18 Dec 2013 10:33:32 +0000 Jamster
Our ICF new-build is cracking on and I'm finalising the detail of the roof. The rafters are in with attic trusses. The original plan was to insulate at first floor ceiling level and go for a cold roof, but since we changed the design to attic trusses, I'm leaning towards insulating either between and under the rafters or between and over. Our ICF structure is 50mm insulation - 100mm concrete - 100mm insulation inside to out. The attic is only for storage; we have no plans to move into it, but having spent a month climbing around a fink-trussed loft for the in-laws, I vowed I wouldn't be doing the same in our own place!

The query I had was mainly around air tightness and also the vapour barrier. If I insulate between and above the rafters, taping joints, etc falls to the roofers to do and it becomes more difficult to do anything retrospectively. However, it means that I can join the roof insulation to the outer leaf of the ICF and wrap the whole place up nice and tight.

If we insulate between and under the rafters, it becomes easier for me to check that we've done all we can to promote air tightness and perhaps add more (although I doubt it will be needed) at a later date. However, I can only link the roof insulation to the inner leaf of the ICF and then the concrete core remains essentially outside of the "big coat" I am looking for.

In both cases I would have the vapour barrier on the warm side of the insulation; however, do either of these methods pose a higher condensation risk to the rafters? Obviously, we'd be fitting breather membrane with an air gap between the slates and any insulation using counter-battens if necessary.

To be honest, I am leaning towards the over and between approach, but I'm also concerned about how much longer this might take and I'd like to get it water-tight as soon as possible!

I'd welcome any thoughts / suggestions / recollections!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11524 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11524 Fri, 13 Dec 2013 10:50:28 +0000 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11522 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11522 Thu, 12 Dec 2013 21:38:55 +0000 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11476 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11476 Fri, 29 Nov 2013 21:28:02 +0000 djh
It needs to be vapour permeable because the upper surface of the roof is not especially open, so there'll be an 'intelligent' membrane underneath to allow drying to the interior when conditions are right.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11457 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11457 Mon, 25 Nov 2013 11:34:16 +0000 ollied
I'm in the process of buying a timber framed wreck that will be pulled down and replaced with a timber framed bungalow on the same footprint. Based on fabric/windows etc at code level 4-5 I have done a rough peak heat load calculation using the guide in "the whole house book" which comes out at 4.8kw for a floor area of 125m2.

We are planning to have MVHR and two wood stoves as the only space heating. One guy I talked to at the Homebuilding show suggested air source heat pump linked to UFH instead, because of the work involved in lighting and fuelling the stoves, but at a cost... Am I missing something? Is there a good reason to opt for an alternative to 2x stoves + MVHR, and if so what...??

Thanks

Ollie]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11448 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11448 Fri, 22 Nov 2013 23:37:11 +0000 markocosic
Electricity meters. How do you deal with them without compromising thermal envelope?

Any experience, good or bad, with UKPN in Cambridgeshire? Any chance they'll consent to an internal cutout/meter?

Cheers,

--
Marko]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11450 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11450 Sat, 23 Nov 2013 10:55:12 +0000 creamcheese One that we have found is:
http://www.dan-wood.co.uk/thermal-efficiency.htm - I did a search of the forum, but couldn't find them mentioned anywhere. I wonder if anyone has looked at their packages and found them less favourable than others on price/service?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11445 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11445 Fri, 22 Nov 2013 17:25:04 +0000 Pingy
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-2440012/For-sale-The-UKs-SOLAR-powered-home-means-youll-utility-bills-youll-need-1-2m-buy-it.html

Considering the efforts by our friends here on GBF, do you think this really is the UK's first solar powered home?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11313 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11313 Sun, 27 Oct 2013 08:39:05 +0000 Triassic
The architect has included a number of patio doors and this set me to wondering which is the best and most cost effective design of door to use in this situation, bi-fold, French windows, lift and slide patio doors (add other designs as appropriate)?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11437 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11437 Wed, 20 Nov 2013 22:46:15 +0000 Triassic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11420 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11420 Mon, 18 Nov 2013 08:34:16 +0000 creamcheese
I want to mention the name of the one I'm currently looking into, but not sure if I'm allowed to. If I were allowed, i would post a link to their website, so that others can look at it and let me know what they they think.

Failing that, any feedback/advice re the Scandinavian companies will be useful.]]>