Green Building Forum - All Discussions

Double glazing to green oak

philby — Mon, 14 May 2007 21:42:00 +0100

hi,wonder if anyone can help.

I am nearing completion of a green oak extention to an old barn.The gable end which I was going to fill looks so good looking into woodland that I would like to glaze.What I am a little worried about is the flexing of the oak ( which has now been dry for about 6 months).I would imagine that a reasonably thick rubber surround/seal would absorb any movement.Has anyone fitted this before,also advice on weather seal would be appreciated.
Thanks.

Building for a Future magazine - name to change!

GBP-Keith — Fri, 20 Apr 2007 17:41:52 +0100

To celebrate 18 years of publishing, I'm pleased to announce that Building for a Future magazine will undergo a name change from the next issue (summer 07). Now to be called Green Building magazine. this will help confirm the main purpose of the mag and bring it into line with our our other products and company name.

I believe with the new name, it will attract a wider audience and become more influential in this growing sector. I'm really disappointed with the way the mainstream building magazines are helping 'ordinary' product manufacturers undermine the concept and philosophy of the subject by running wall-to-wall 'PR babble' dressed up as qualified sustainable, zero-carbon and green building information. Even titiles aimed at planners, local and central government officers and building regulations officers are doing it.

Rest assured, Green Building Magazine will keep to the time honored strict advertising policy that BFF has enjoyed and we will keep a very, very strict control of stories offered to us by product purveyors and PR companies.

Most regular things from BFF will flip over into the new mag but I am seriously considering dropping the product section at the back of the mag as it is our weakest spot. Comments are welcome on this and other aspects.

Replacing old floorboarding and joists.

triniquint — Mon, 21 May 2007 06:07:58 +0100

I have a small, semi-detached bungalow in which the wooden floors feel as if they need strengthening. There is a sort of slight spring to them, and they donâ€™t â€˜feelâ€™ too strong.
Recently we had bedroom furniture built by a carpenter, and he went through the floor in the corner by the outside wall and next door, when a joist simply gave up through rot. Though he replaced this joist, and one other, and then laminated the bedroom floor, as I walk along the window wall towards the corner where he fell through the floor (where our built-in wardrobe now is), the floor creaks and squeaks.

When transiting the living room â€“ which has the front door entering into it, and is a high traffic area â€“ the floor also makes me feel that if my son and I had to jump up and down hard, we would probably crash through that, too.

We also get slugs inside the house, leaving silver trails, which I understand is also a sign of damp. (I canâ€™t believe they live underneath the house on the solum area, but perhaps get into this under floor area via airbricks, or whatever.

I think the entire floor area of the house i.e. hall, living room, and bedroom, requires ripping up, damp-proofing, central heating pipes clad, brand new joists put in (with PVC at ends where they go into the brickwork), possible additional air bricks to improve air flow. Only when this is done, can I then lay new timber flooring â€“ but before laying the actual boards down, I need to know what membrane, if any, I can lay over the joists, and under the boards, so as to seal my living areas off from whatever is underneath.

My tentative plan is to simply empty one room (living room), take up the carpet and underlay, expose the floorboards, remove skirting boards, crowbar up the old floorboards, drop down into the under floor area, remove the joists, and simply leave a large, smelly, open hole space where the living room floor was.

I then want to inspect this i.e. check airbricks have good air flow; that the airbricks are into ducting that passes from the front of the house, through the cavity, and into the under floor area. I donâ€™t want airbricks that simply replace a brick from the wall, and allow air to go through this and vanish into the cavity. The air needs to be directed past the cavity and into the under floor area.

I then want to check all central heating piping is supported, lagged, and not leaking â€“ but lagged with what? Wrapped in Hessian, or polystyrene tubing?

Having done this I want to clear any rubble, detritus, etc from the ground, and check for any sleeper walls. Then check for puddles.

I would like to damp proof this solum area completely â€“ I believe we are getting damp in there from the clay soil â€“ and only once this has been done to my satisfaction, do I ant to renew the joists and flooring, as well as strengthening the floor by using noggins between the joists.

I have been telling my wife this needs doing, but she refuses to countenance it, believing the upheaval will be too much. I believe I can do it in no more than a couple of days â€“ provided I plan accordingly.

I donâ€™t simply want to tear up the old floorboards/joists, and replace with new, and bang them down to hide whatâ€™s underneath. I want a dry under floor area, and the job to be done properly â€“ but need advice.

Whilst reasonably competent at DIY, this is a major undertaking which I am a little frightened of. Once I have started, then I will be compelled to finish it, and if I make an mess of it, Iâ€™ll wish Iâ€™d never have started, and could lose money unnecessarily. I am loathe to call in builders due to cost, and not being 100% certain they donâ€™t cut corners.

Any advise or ideas would be very helpful.

I have pictures/preliminary plans......

Katymac — Wed, 23 May 2007 17:50:53 +0100

But I don't know how to make them appear

I've tried 3 times & I get a little rude message

So - they are very nice - but you can't see them......sorry

'Inspired by Timber in Construction' - Seminar & Site Visit

Jenny Martin — Wed, 23 May 2007 13:58:33 +0100

Inspired by Timber in Construction - Seminar & Site Visit
at the Woodland Enterprise Centre, near Flimwell, East Sussex
Saturday 23rd June, 2pm-5pm
Part of Architecture Week 2007

A WOODNET Event - www.woodnet.org.uk. This event will be of particular interest to architects, construction professionals, self-builders, students and those with an interest in producing and using local renewable timber for architecture.

THE SEMINAR, held in the Civic Trust award winning sweet chestnut gridshell building (WEC Phase I), will be followed by a site tour of the new workshop development using laminated local timbers in a modern timber frame design (WEC Phase II). The team behind Phase II has an impressive collective portfolio featuring innovative and award winning projects â€“ The Saville Building, Weald & Downland Gridshell, Woodland Enterprise Centre Gridshell, Shorne Wood Country Park Visitors Centre, Scottish Houses of Parliament.

PRESENTATIONS & DISCUSSIONS WITH:

Steve Johnson (Architect), Architecture Ensemble
Weald & Downland Oak Gridshell

Nigel Braden, Inwood Developments (Timber Lamination)
Saville Building, Woodland Enterprise Centre, Scottish
Houses of Parliament, Shorne Wood Visitor Centre

Andrew Holloway, Green Oak Carpentry (Building Contractor)
Saville Building (Wood Awards Winner 2006),

Weald & Downland Oak Gridshell
David Pattenden, Westgate Joinery (Manufacturing Joinery)
Woodland Enterprise Centre, Hesmonds Barn (Wood Awards 2006 shortlist)

David Saunders, Woodland Enterprise Centre (Client)
Project Manager, WEC Phase I and Phase II

GUIDED SITE VISIT See the first two light-industrial timber framed workshops under construction, surrounded by 20 hectares of semi-natural ancient woodland in the High Weald Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty on the Sussex/Kent border.

BOOKING: (booking form attached)

Tickets: Â£12.00
Low income/students: Â£6.00
Family Ticket: Â£24.00
Family Concession: Â£12.00
Optional lunch Â£10.00

BOOKING DEADLINE: Friday 8th June. Please send cheques payable to WoodNet with contact name, address, phone number, email address & specific booking requirements to: WoodNet, Woodland Enterprise Centre, Hastings Road, Flimwell, East Sussex, TN5 7PR. All bookings will be confirmed by phone or email. For group bookings or bookings after 8th June, please phone for availability.

OPTIONAL LUNCH with the team: you are warmly invited to join us for a pre-booked buffet lunch at 1.15pm before the main programme commences at 2pm, details below.

LOCATION: The WEC is just South of Flimwell on the A21, on the East Sussex-Kent border, full directions with your booking.

For further information please contact:

Jenny Martin, WoodNet
01580 879552
jenny@woodnet.org.uk
www.woodnet.org.uk

BACKGROUND TO THE WEC

WEC Phase II: eight timber framed workshops under construction using environmentally sustainable building methods, laminated local timbers, innovative green timber frame and sweet chestnut cladding.

Designed with the combined skills and experiences of the project team including The Architecture Ensemble (Steve Johnson), Buro Happold engineers, The Green Oak Carpentry Company and Inwood Developments The workshops will be framed and clad in Douglas Fir from SE England.

WEC Phase I: Arising out of an architectural competition, the sweet chestnut gridshell building, completed in 2002, demonstrates the use of local wood in contemporary timber design by utilising low grade coppiced timbers. For more information about the Woodland Enterprise Centre, a PDF about this event + photos go to: www.woodnet.org.uk/wec

Please let me film your green building project!

dan_aka_jack — Tue, 22 May 2007 11:52:24 +0100

Hi,

I'm planning to make a series of short films whose aim will be to demonstrate practical ways in which individuals and organisations can reduce their emissions of green house gasses. I'm a freelance filmmaker and I'm planning to distribute and publicise the videos on the Internet. At least to start with, I will make the films on my own money. I'm planning to call the series of films "After Carbon" (unless anyone can think of a better name before I start making the films!) I'd like the films to be as detailed and practical as possible (shows like "It's Not Easy Being Green" are great but they are short of practical detail). My plan is to use plenty of diagrams and graphics to illustrate the engineering shown in each film.

What I really need are projects to film! I will do my best to stay out of the way of the work-in-progress and the films shouldn't intrude too much on your privacy - I'm keen to focus mostly on the *installation* rather than on the *installers* or owners! And, of course, I'll send you a copy of the film to "OK" before I publish it. In terms of subject matter, I'd like to cover the broadest possible spectrum of issues - from solar hot water heating systems, to the use of alternatives to concrete, to wood-chip burning CHP systems for office towers etc. In terms of location, I'm based in South East London so the closer the better - I'd say a 3 hour drive is probably the maximum distance I can travel (not least because of the hypocrisy of making a film about limiting CO2 emissions by driving a petrol-powered car around with all my equipment!)

Please contact me either by replying to this thread (especially if you have questions which you think other people would be interested in) or using the contact form on my website:

http://jack-kelly.com/contact

Thanks loads,
Jack

Domestic Energy Assesor

ashleymschrader — Mon, 14 May 2007 10:23:35 +0100

Please could somebody help me, I am due to take the energy assesors course in one weeks time and I do not have a great deal of experience please could anybody let me know if they have taken the course, some tips on what to do and what to read up on. Thanks. Ashley

underfloor heating and luquid screeds

andyowen — Mon, 09 Apr 2007 08:44:56 +0100

anyone out there with good or bad experiances after using these 2 products?
:cry::bigsmile:

Sustainable Concrete Construction

GBP-Keith — Tue, 01 May 2007 19:48:04 +0100

Posted by Keith but not necessarily endorsed by he!

According to the Concrete Centre, Concrete construction can combat the effects of global warming by lowering energy consumption and therefore carbon emissions, thus minimizing the need for future air-conditioning.

If you want to learn more about this, The Concrete Centre, is running an evening seminar on 21st June 2007, at the Queen Mary University College, Clerwood Terrace, Edinburgh EH12 8TS starting at 18:30.

The seminar will outline the principles of passive solar design and how thermal mass can reduce CO2 emissions during the lifetime of a building. It will also look at how other designers have addressed the problems and provided innovative new solutions, as well as discussing the sustainable credentials of using concrete, the material science behind it and the various facts which support its sustainable credentials for manufacture and specification.

The seminar is free to attend.

For further information and registration visit: http://www.concretecentre.com/events

Book Recommendation

MrT — Fri, 18 May 2007 09:40:32 +0100

I'm looking for a good book dealing with the details of building construction. I've got a couple out of the library which are aimed at building surveyors and architects which wilst ok don't provide much on eco construction.
Much of the eco books, I've got EcoHouse2 and the whole House Book both of which are great, do not go into
details about construction.

Anyone recommend a book which they use as a reference for building construction techniques which can be a
source of information for both professionals and laymen.

An examination into the current state of the existing housing stock

Michael_T — Thu, 17 May 2007 14:38:30 +0100

My name is Michael and I am currently in my fourth year at studying Building Surveying. At the moment i am working on my dissertation, the topic is 'Sustainable Development: An examination into the current state of the existing housing stock and the role of existing buildings in the sustainability agenda.'

I have also been studying data and research carried out by several institutions, including the Sustainable Development Commission and the ECI, to investigate whether improvements to the building fabric would lead to significant long term improvements in relation to a buildings energy performance.

I have made up a short questionnaire and would appreciate anyone in the know to take a couple of minutes of their time to fill it out.

http://www.smart-survey.co.uk/v.asp?i=1903xdpwo

Thanks,

Michael.

How good is Thinsulex?

PDobson — Sun, 13 May 2007 12:23:03 +0100

Does anyone know how different/how much better Tri-Iso super 10 would be compared to Thinsulex used in combination with 70 to 90mm PU foam in a warm roof setup with 150mm rafters. Does anyone see a problem with the scenario shown on the Thinsulex web site with the Thinsulex directly trapped between the rafter and the plasterboard without the use of counter battens. This scenario seems to cut about 25mm from the roof depth â€“ not much I know but every little bit helps.

If Tri-Iso 10 is much better and I am missing out by not using it perhaps I should ditch NHBC who wont let me use it. Does anyone know if Premier or Build Zone are more amenable to new materials?

Standby socket circuit

pyrogaz — Fri, 11 May 2007 21:34:34 +0100

We had a couple of friends visit recently and whilst chatting got onto the subject of reducing electricity consumption, at which point I showed them what we have done on the house we are currently building, which we also did on our previous build. They reckoned it was an excellent idea so I thought I would share it!

Like many other folk we try to be conscientious about fully turning off appliances that have a standby function when turning in for the night, but the nature of these sort of devices means you're usually crawling under desks, fighting through a tangle of cables, and wondering if you're going to accidentally unplug the alarm clock and have to spend ten minutes resetting it. Our solution was to duplicate the socket circuits, one is generally used for devices with a standby mode and its twin for "normal" devices and those which we don't wish to turn off; the standby circuit has a master switch installed in our bedroom so last thing at night simply flick the switch and 4 TV's, 4 Freeview boxes, 5 PC's, 3 printers, 1 server, 3 DVD's, 2 VCR's, 1 microwave, 3 Hifi systems and numerous other devices are completely shut down. I should mention that we never use the VCR for recording so not a problem that they lose their clock settings overnight, and the DVD recorders are a bit more clever and don't lose their settings, so I'm not a masochist!

It might seem overkill to install extra circuits but the cost was just under Â£140, yes we have a lot of sockets, and we have little red dots stuck on those on the "standby circuit" to indentify them; but a quick check with a meter showed that we were drawing over 400 watts prior to switching off at night. Even if the circuit is only off for 6 hours each night it equates to about Â£85 per year, add in a couple of weeks holiday and you're knocking on the door of Â£100, so the pay back is very short.

Help dug below the (mud) footings

steve mac — Thu, 17 May 2007 12:39:40 +0100

I am currently renovating a 1847 French stone farm house.At Easter I dug out the internal floor (2.5 m X2.5 m) to asingle story out house attatched to the main house.My intention is to lay a slab, dpc, metal the floor, insulate and lay a 70 mm concrete floor. However, The stone walls are laid directly on mud ( no suprise there) which I have obviously exposed by 25 cm.
My question is do I continue with my plans or do I gently ( 1 metre at a time) remove the mud footings by half the thickness of the 600 mm wall and back fill with concreate .
All advise and comments will be greatly received.

Steve Mac.

12v Supply

Paul_B — Mon, 26 Mar 2007 20:18:10 +0100

I have been tinking for some time if it is worth running a 12v supply around the house? So many devices now seem to use 12v for charging or low voltage lighting. I believe PV Solare Panels tend to run as 12v and then use an invertor?

So what would be the benefits / disadvantages?

Paul

Oxford Climate Change event

cmarsham — Thu, 17 May 2007 09:42:21 +0100

Oxford Climate Change Conference

To celebrate World Environment Day, Oxford City Council is organising Oxfordâ€™s own climate change conference on Tuesday 5 June in the Town Hall from 2pm until 8pm.

We want to bring people together who live, work and study in Oxford and encourage them to take simple actions that can make a real difference to climate change.

Professor Lord May of Oxford, former chief scientific advisor to the UK Government and past-President of the Royal Society will give the opening address on the global challenge of climate change.

The other speakers will focus on four areas â€“ What is the problem? What can Local Government do? What can you and your neighbours do? And what can business do?

Mark Lynas, activist, leading journalist and author of the acclaimed â€œHigh Tideâ€ and â€œ6 degrees: Our future on a hotter planetâ€ will be talking about the global problem during the opening speeches.

Chris West, Director of UK Climate Impacts Programme will then talk about adapting to climate change and what it means for Oxford.

The opening speeches will be followed by a panel discussion and question and answer session with the speakers. The discussion will be lead by Professor Sue Roaf.

This will be followed by a session on what Local Government can do to help stop climate change including speeches by Councillor John Goddard, Leader of Oxford City Council and Philip Sellwood, Chief Executive, Energy Saving Trust. He will be exploring what other things local government can do and specifically Oxford.

The next session will look at what you and your neighbours can do. Chris Goodall, Oxford based author of â€œHow to Live a Low-carbon Life?â€ and columnist for the Independent on Sunday will be talking about living a low carbon lifestyle in Oxford. Chris Jardine from the Oxford University Environmental Change Institute will talk about reducing household energy demand. Ian Bacon from the Thames Valley regional renewable energy agency will provide advice on renewable energy technologies available on the market that could be installed in a typical Oxford home. George Marshall of the Oxford based Climate Outreach Information Network will describe how he has successfully â€œeco-refurbishedâ€ his home and Mark Lynas will be talking about what communities can do in Oxford and in particular low carbon Wolvercote.

The next session will profile what some local businesses are doing in Oxford to reduce their impact on the environment and help to tackle climate change. Peter Couchman, Group General Manager of Midcounties Co-operative will talk about what they are doing, Rex Knight of Oxford Brookes University will describe how the University, as a large local employer, is approaching climate change and Craig Simmons, Technical Director of Best Foot Forward, will talk about Carbon/Ecological footprinting and how it can assist businesses, organisations and individuals in understanding and reducing their greenhouse gas emissions.

The conference will conclude with a panel discussion and question and answer session formed from a selection of speakers from the programme.

An exhibition will take place between 2pm and 8pm reflecting the themes of the conference featuring sustainable energy installers and advisors, and local carbon reduction projects among a range of other related exhibitors.

There will also be film screenings of the Al Gore film, An Inconvenient Truth at 2pm, 4pm, and 6pm, also in the Town Hall.

If you want to find out what you can do now, please visit the exhibition, which opens at 2pm, and come to the conference, which begins at 4pm. For more information visit http://www.oxfordismyworld.org or telephone Oxford City Council sustainable energy team on 01865 252197.

sedum roof

Rachel — Wed, 16 May 2007 19:32:59 +0100

On the old forum, I remember someone gave an address where to buy good, well priced sedum, for a roof. Can anyone remind me where it was? Many thanks

A simple thermal store????

John11668 — Tue, 15 May 2007 23:17:37 +0100

I have a customer who wants to connect a thermal store HW cylinder to their morso wood stove.
There are lots of TS cylinders on the market , all singing , all dancing but all they want is a simple direct cylinder( Ideally with a combination tank , a heat leak radiator and mains pressure HW. No need for pumps to heating circuit , ideally without pump to plate heat exchanger, no need for additional coils, but I cant find a simple variant.

Can anyone point me to one?

Are sustainable home achievable for the mass market?

Nanuls — Thu, 26 Apr 2007 09:04:48 +0100

Hello all, I'm about to begin writing an article for a local newsletter on the Code for Sustainable Homes paper released by the Government last Decemeber, and I was hoping someone could help me with this question I was asked to answer:

Are sustainable homes already achievable and if so why donâ€™t we see many of them around?

Thanks
Dan

Part P - Can I DIY?!

tonywright — Mon, 09 Apr 2007 23:52:20 +0100

I do not understand the new Part P regulations. Can I, as a competent electrician (though not registered with any scheme or a professional) complete the electrics in my new self build home? Even the Building Regulation Department seem unsure in my County!

Barn/Nursery conversion update

Katymac — Thu, 08 Mar 2007 07:59:23 +0000

This is the current order of running (I hope)

Amazonails are going to do the plans
After PP & BR, I will

Arrange site power (generator until power arrives), hire a portaloo & dig a trench to get the water connected (using a hose until that is fitted)
Clear the barn & surrounding areas of junk/rubbish etc
Remove the roof (asbestos - Â£6.5K)
Lower walls, block up existing holes, cut for new windows (keeping old block/rubble to be crushed for car park foundations)
Arrange drainage (to interior floor level), cess pit (probably) & either rainwater tanks or soakaways (although I think I need one of them any way for overflow)
Put the new roof on this is about a metre wider & longer in each direction - the materials used are still to be decided - concrete tiles, onduline, roofing felt & shingles are all in the running with metal as a low possibility
Foundations of straw bale wall (AN course?)
Strawbale wall (AN Course?)
Fit windows & doors
Exterior finish (not sure if this is a plaster or a render or both.....waiting for clarification)

Then we do the interior
floor/heating
Partitions & ceiling
1st fix plumbing
1st fix electric
2nd fix joinery
2nd fix plumbing - Kitchen fitting & Bathroom
2nd fix electric
Paint walls white
Lay linoleum (if I can afford it or vinyl if I can't)

At least I think that's how it will go
The big question is how much (if any) of that I can do
I can paint the walls, but I need to decide if I should attend these courses on strawbaling et al so that I can carry on with it if it doesn't get finished on a course
Also whether I am physically capable of doing that sort of work or whether I pay someone to attend the courses & pay wages to do the work (I would need to pay for the course & thier wgae while they attended I guess)

Amazonails say I need to provide food for the courses & I don't worry about that an extra 12-22 to feed at lunch-time doesn't phase me (as long as they aren't too fussy)

Can existing houses ever be carbon neutral?

MH — Sun, 15 Apr 2007 18:40:23 +0100

Hi,

I was just wondering could the existing housing stock ever be carbon neutral using micro renewables such as Wind turbines and Pvs. The reason I ask is the SD Commission has a stat that 60% of our energy in homes are consumed in space and water heating which uses natural gas in most places so how could just a wind turbine or Pv ever replace the heating unless you change the whole heating system.

I know Solar water heating could help reduce this burdern and the above could try and reduce the electrical needs but I always had the idea that you only needed one microgeneration form. As I've conducted my research for my dissertation it seems clear you need a combination that suits your particular home.

Please correct me if I'm missing the obvious!

By the way could I also PLEASE ask people with experience or educated on renewable energy/microgeneartion etc to please spare a couple of mins to fill a questionnaire http://www.smart-survey.co.uk/v.asp?i=1679tjjpu
I only need at least 3 more responses to complete my research as it requires input from those in the know.

Thanks....I look forward to your replies.:bigsmile:

Mohammad.

Is coal central heating so environmentally unfriendly?

adrian hollister — Tue, 13 Mar 2007 21:35:08 +0000

After waiting nearly six months now for my wood pellet stove, I've had time to reflect on the coal burning stove we have now. From first impressions it's terribly environmentally unfriendly - the smoke, the visible dirt - but I have noticed that we use our heating much more efficiently now.

Unlike gas, oil and electricity, Coal is a physical thing - you have to put it on the fire and you quickly become aware of how much you are consuming. You also get an idea of how much you have to clean up in the morning. Our heating/hot water bill's are running at about 20 quid a month (and this is over the winter).

The distribution system for coal is quite efficient. The coal we use comes from Wales and we as a country have loads of coal left remaining (reducing the risk of 'international' energy supply).

So is coal really so bad?

Are There Any Other Forums About Building?

EdF — Sun, 13 May 2007 10:33:56 +0100

I hesitate to ask general building questions here as it's obviously intended for green building queries. Are there any other forums of a more general nature? I'm having to manage my own project and do some of the work after my builder did a runner with a staged payment and I need to ask a few questions. Thanks..

Where should an air tightness barrier go in masonry construction?

tony — Thu, 10 May 2007 23:21:14 +0100

We still cant answer this simple question so how will we ever be able to build tight?

Recently saw a new home pass the air leakage test ( just ) yet within a couple of weeks of occupation there were patches of condensation on the ground floor ceilings! Though the internal air in the rooms was sealed there was access from outside to under the first floor void. All the insulation was outside the air barrier! was this right??

Many of us seem to think that the decorations or the plaster is the air barrier but I am coming to the conclusion that we need it to be outside the insulation but how this can be achieved is difficult to see. In many parts of Europe they get hugely better air tightness than we do and are often using poured concrete walls may be we need to radically change our solid construction methods?

Any takers for suggesting where the air barrier should be? Any ideas better than caulking skirtings to floors would be most welcome.

Grey water- advice sought

Peter_Shield — Tue, 10 Apr 2007 19:13:13 +0100

I have an isolated property fed from a mountain source in Les Corbieres, Languedoc. The climate here is getting dryer, and hotter- indeed we have not had good long rain for nearly 14 months. With 200 olives, a young orchard and a small but thirsty vegetable garden, water is becoming a key issue. The first step is to fit guttering and water butts to collect what rain we do get, that is underway, the next point is what level of water can we recycle and how. We already use a basic system, a bucket, of using the kitchen water for the loo. However I need to do some plumbing work to get the back boiler and solar water heating systems installed, at the same time I would like to install a grey water capturing system on the kitchen sink, shower and bathroom basin- can someone point me in the right direction to find more information on how grey water works- because I have a septic tank there issues with what products we use in the kitchen and shower, we tend to only use â€˜naturalâ€™ cleaning products, can grey water be used to irrigate an orchard or is purely for the loo?

Thanks for any ideas.

Peter

Water stain and Eco Paint

Paul_B — Thu, 29 Mar 2007 10:55:59 +0100

Morning all,

Firstly some practical help please. How can I cover a water stain in the ceiling so that I can overpaint with emulsion? I have purchased some Auro White Emulsion paint which goes on very well if a little smelly. However, the water stain is coming through, can someone recommend an green way of stopping this? Most suggestions I have read on Google suggest solvent / oil based solutions.

On a slightly broader topic what are peoples experience with so called "eco" paints? I have used Auro for emulsion and painting the shed which has stood up well over the winter and just looks like it needs a clean for spring. It certainly hasn't peeled like I have seen on the commercial shed / fence paints.

Finally, the white emulsion is quite smelly having quite a strong orange smell. I am going to try the onion and vinegar / bread trick for the second coat.

Budget Airconditioning/Greenhouse Frost Protection

keithwhite — Wed, 09 May 2007 00:18:33 +0100

A thought occurred to me, I'm planning to use an old car radiator with 12v fan to provide frost protection to our greehouse, using water and gravity from a spring fed stream which never goes below 8 C for the heating. Now it struck me that I could also do this using a ground loop, extracting low level heat from the soil, and power it all from a 12v battery. If this worked then in the summer it would also be able to be used for cooling. I'm yet to try this, has any one else ?

IPCC AR4

biffvernon — Tue, 01 May 2007 08:19:40 +0100

IPCC WG1 AR4 Final Report is now available for download.
http://ipcc-wg1.ucar.edu/wg1/wg1-report.html

For best ongoing analysis see RealClimate
http://www.realclimate.org/

Warm lead roof

Spike — Fri, 11 May 2007 23:34:06 +0100

I will shortly be replacing a lead flat roof. Is it possible (or desirable?) to do this incorporating a warm roof design - say 100mm of Pavatherm under the lead?

Conventional vs mains pressure dhw

Leo — Fri, 20 Apr 2007 21:07:48 +0100

All the diagrams I've seen of solar/ back boiler mixed DHW systems have a header tank. Is there any reason why the system shouldn't be of the newer mains pressure with expansion vessel variety. Likewise is there any reason radiators from a back boiler/ woodburner shouldn't be on an unvented system? I'd like to reclaim some loft space.

Lime mortar plaster

Joatex — Thu, 10 May 2007 21:13:44 +0100

Which sand is best for lime mortar plaster, builders,sharp, silver ? And is reinforcing, i.e.horse hair or fibre glass or whatever essential ? The paster in to be appied both inside and out. Finally the ratio of lime moratr to sand ? Many thanks

Rammed earth construction

AT — Thu, 03 May 2007 09:52:55 +0100

Can anyone advise on the process of Rammed earth construction and its pro's and con's?

Government policy

SimpleE — Mon, 07 May 2007 18:55:31 +0100

Do the current people in power or those in waiting really have a grasp on reality ?
Zero stamp duty on carbon neutral homes - thats not going to cost very much is it !
No grants available because they are restructuring !
Biofuel will harm the planet.
Whats going on ? While I am more than happy to do my bit to combat CO2 emmissions I feel the increasing tax burden is just that and in no way reflects any 'green' credentials and just what are they spending the money raised on ?
Your thoughts please.

Barriers to implementing sustainability issues

jacky1011 — Tue, 08 May 2007 00:31:29 +0100

Hi, I am a final year QS student doing dissertation based on topic â€˜ barriers for implement ting sustainability into real world practicesâ€™ the main research aims is to prove that cost is the main constraints and why?

Sustainability has become a popular issues, the government recognize its importance to create a better quality for life. Therefore various actions plans and strategies were develop in order to implement sustainability into real world practices.

Such as the sustainable code, sustainable procurement strategy etc
But does these plans successful? If not, what are the problems? What stops sustainability to be implemented ?

I would be appreciate if all of you take part in this discussion as I would hope to gain as many information as possible in a very short time due to time constraints.

I develope a questionnaire to be distribute. Who is interest to fill in please contact me and i will email to you.
JacquelineJoo797@hotmail.com

Million thanks for all who are willing to help me.

Ideas on prevention of mould on cement screeded walls

Joatex — Mon, 30 Apr 2007 21:06:52 +0100

Which treatment will reduce or prevent mould on cement screeded walls

Mould is forming on the inner walls of a bathroom and a room adjacent a stone walled barn located in southern France. The barn walls are stone and approximate 2.5 feet thick but the bathroom and adjacent room have been formed from a larger room and a section of the outer original wall replaced with a 6 inch concrete block wall and windows. The exterior and interior finish over the concrete blocks is a portland cement screed No DPC was added under the new concrete blocks. Before the changes to the room there was no evidence of mould on the walls or on the adjacent floor

The tiled roof is sound as is the guttering. The terrain is largely sand and drainage should not be problem.

No natural or forced ventilation has been added. The barn living accommodation is occupied for a short time only in the summer, otherwise closed but the door to the rooms mentioned remains open. The absence of mould on the exterior surfaces of the concrete blocks suggest that the natural ventilation of an outer surface prevents mould growth

The problem is growth of mould on the inner cement screeded walls. In addition there is mould on that area of the room floor close to the outer wall. The bathroom floor has been remade with a DPC under a concrete floor and is 2 inches higher than the adjacent room, no mould on the floor but a little behind the loo.

The question is that of treatment.

Ventilation by air bricks would seem to be the first step but would only overcome the presumed higher RH of the two rooms Further ventilation by a fan may be necessary but for 50 weeks the barn is empty and energy expended to reduce mould would be out of proportion to the gain.

If the cement screed was removed from the concrete blocks and replaced with a lime mortar plaster and skimmed with lime mortar/silver sand would that allow the damp in the concrete blocks to be dissipated leaving the plastered surfaces dry enough to avoid mould ? Or would it be necessary to remove the concrete blocks and replace with original stone then face both sides with lime mortar screed ?

If it was just a matter of ventilation what type could reach a satisfactory surface moisture level ?

Comments if you please

Rigid insulation offcuts

mook — Tue, 17 Apr 2007 15:16:51 +0100

Anybody got any good ideas how to use up offcuts from fitting rigid insulation. I insulated under my floor and I now have a large quantity of pieces about 1.2m long 20cm to 30 cm wide, Kingspan 75 mm thick.

I can use some to make a insulated lid for my compost heaps but unless I can think of something creative the rest seem destined for landfill.

Loft converter recommendation

Ads — Thu, 10 May 2007 09:36:17 +0100

We shortly aim to convert the loft in our 1930s house. The problem we have found is that most of the companies have minimal understanding of green/sustainable issues. Can anyone recommend any companies in the Midlands who ARE aware of what we would consider to be sensible building criteria for such a job?

Tight fitting insulation in wall stud work

mook — Tue, 08 May 2007 10:50:54 +0100

I'm insulating an interior wall using the following method. 100mm timber studs with about 25/50mm gap to the lime plastered stone wall (timber studs arent fixed into the wall). Between the studs are 75mm PUR boards. I've done my best to friction fit these but there are some small (1-2mm gaps) in places. Can I just stuff small amounts of rockwool in these to seal the gaps, or use duck tape or similar or will it not matter to leave small gaps?
Not sure how airtight I should be aiming for here?
The studs will be covered with foil backed plasterboard to provide a vapour barrier.

Also wondering what to do at window recesses these have wood panelling which slope towards the window (single glazed sash), not really enough room to insulate on top, but if its worthwhile I could maybe put some of that thin polystyrene backing on (warmcell?) then plasterboard over? Or maybe cork tiles?

I'm aware this isn't the 'greenest' solution but i'm hoping my efforts with insulating will reduce heating bills (its to be a cofeeshop/gallery)

Thanks

Building a Hydro power backup!!?

Phill — Mon, 30 Apr 2007 10:22:40 +0100

Hi all

This is my first post here on this forum, Iâ€™ve been looking around for a few days and have found the whole site very informative and the input from the forum users is excellent.
So please excuse me if I pick your brains!

Iâ€™ll give you an idea of what were planning so it might help with the â€œbigger pictureâ€, we have decided to build a new house again (just completed first one!) but we do want to really push for a more eco friendly house especially on the energy use side of things.
I would really like to live off grid but I donâ€™t think that may not be viable for us as I donâ€™t fancy a huge array of batteries for when the wind doesnâ€™t blow and the sun isnâ€™t shining. We live in Caithness and very exposed on a hillside so I do think a wind turbine should be pretty successful for the majority of power required and I have been doing a lot of research into this and getting accurate data for local windspeeds etc. Heating will be from a GSHP coupled to a solar PV to run the system and a solar heat panel to help boost the hot water etc.

Now my first question relates to an alternate or backup for power on a calm day, this particular thought only really came to me last night.
We have plenty of land and we are on a hill so if I were to dig two reservoirs, on at the top and one at the bottom, how large a volume of water would we need over what ratio of fall to produce a useable supply of power through a water turbine?

Now I know that question actually is quite vague but hydro power is something I know nothing about and despite a quick search of the net this morning Iâ€™m not finding much useful information, in short would it be feasible to have the two reservoirs and when power is required on a calm day a valve on the upper reservoir can be opened to release the water to turn the turbine and then once the wind turbine is running, and ideally using the power dumps, pump the water back up.

Does this seem feasible?

Many thanks
Phill

Rafter or Joist Insulation if future ASHP to be housed in loft

moogaloo — Thu, 03 May 2007 13:17:33 +0100

I think I have said it all. In the future I may add an Air Source Heat Pump to my Thermal Store to affectively replace the boiler. I think the best location for this would be the loft, but I am also about to insulate and can't work out if if it would be best to insulate the floor or the roof itelf? Maybe both!

Any advice?

log burner/back boiler

portvalefanjosh — Thu, 03 May 2007 13:27:36 +0100

Hi all im new on here anyway here goes, im after a log burner/back boiler to heat my above ground swimming/paddling pool i know you can get them of ebay but they are about 400 quid for a new one. Im only after anything that works as it will only be on the back lawn, so if any of you could suggest anywhere to go and find one i would be gratefull or if you know where there is one that would be even better.The reason is because last year it took me 12 hrs to heat the pool using a 3kw pool heater and two kettles so i don,t want to go through that this year so i thought about piping a log burner with back burner to it instead of using all the elctric and time for myself.Anyway if you could help let us know thanks.

Research paper on the Passivhaus standard

Emily — Mon, 23 Apr 2007 18:36:54 +0100

Hi all,

(4th time lucky - I will get the hang of this sometime!)

I'm a final yr student in Nottingham, and for a small research papr (5000 words) I've decided to look at the Passivhaus standard - whether people think it could meet high levels of the CSH without additional cost, as suggested by the BRE, and if this is the case, why the uptake of design measures to achieve the standard have been so slow in the UK.

I read a few threads on here a while back but I've got a few specific questions, and I'd really appreciate it if anyone has chance to give a few yes / no answers. If you have any other comments or opinions about the standard, I'd also really appreciate them.

1. Are the requirements of the Passivhaus standard clear?

2. Are the values set at the right levels? If not, too high, to low?

3. Would the standard work as it is in the UK?

4. Would you be happy to live in a house with continuous mechanical ventilation?

5. Do you feel that designing homes to the standard would achieve high levels of the CSH without additional cost?

6. Super insulation, air tightness and attention to solar gain / shading, or.. on site renewable energy generation?

Thanks.

Oh, if you answer the questions and you don't mind, an industry, or area which you work in would be very handy, but if not I totally understand.

Cheers

Emily

Environmental Assessment Methods and Tools

archie — Wed, 18 Apr 2007 18:18:43 +0100

Hi, I'm a Part III student looking into the various Environmental Assessment Methods and Tools that are available to us either to help develop our schemes or to rate the performance of finished buildings. These might be systems such as BREEAM (Ecohomes etc.) and SAP but could also include software tools such as EcoTect. There's plenty of info out there explaining what these methods are for and how they work, but I'm struggling to find feedback from people that actually use them on a day-to-day basis. The floor is open!

What are your experiences of these assessment methods? Do you find them to be an invaluable element of the design process or are there shortcomings that leave you wondering if they are actually worthwhile? Is the Government backing the most suitable methods? What is the evidence that the buildings that perform well on these test are actually performing well in reality?

It would be excellent if anyone knows of any publications that have undertaken balanced but crtical analyses of these systems.

Anything at all that springs to mind will be well received. Many thanks!

Sustainable building specifications - misuse

AT — Tue, 01 May 2007 19:35:43 +0100

If building specifications are developed around sustainable ideas or innovated cutting edge technology what can be the resultant position for the architect in controlling and limiting his risk? What happens when these technologies are misunderstood or misused?
Could anyone share any advise or links, books,etc..
Does anyone know of articles or case studies of projects that could be used to discuss these ideas, or about projects where the technology have been misused and the architect then find themselves in hot water with misconduct charges flying around!
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

PIR / PUR / Breather Membrane/ Cavity Advise

moogaloo — Mon, 07 May 2007 16:34:38 +0100

I have been looking at the ecotherm, kingspan, celetex rigid board insulation for a pitched roof. trying not to loose too much height?

I have 1930s 3 bed semi with a pitched roof tiled, felt and battened (do not want to reroof) and 100mm rafters. I think it will be a between and under rafter style and will need some kind of cavity and perhaps a breather membrane. But I don't actually know what I am talking about.

How much cavity should I have? Should I have breather membrane? Should I consider multifoil in the mix (don't hit me)? Are the required U value of 0.2 against the U Value of 0.16 of joist insulation for legitimate reasons or should I be shooting beyond 0.2?

Help me please :cry:

High-quality secondary glazing

Nick Parsons — Fri, 04 May 2007 22:31:20 +0100

A customer of mine is looking for high-quality secondary glazing (got Victorian sliding sashes which want saving) - lives in Yorkshire. Anyone got any recommendations? Really really don't like plastic. As I suppose we shouldn't 'recommend' on here, by all means reply to me directly at nickDOTparsons@syecDOTcoDOTuk.

Thanks in anticipation.

Nick

Rape Seed Oil Boilers

Mike (Up North) — Mon, 07 May 2007 11:42:59 +0100

Hi, Has anybody looked at the Rape Seed oil burning condensing boiler from Atlantic. It was at Eco2007. Its bright yellow so hard to miss.
Iâ€™m familiar with the Atlantic R-22 series boilers, this is new from them and I hope to speak to Atlantic soon and would like to have some informed feedback.
Main concern would be the supply of Rape seed oil, and aside from turning the country side yellow any other problems. Iâ€™ve seen car conversuion kits which look like simply

Thanks for any comment

Mike (up north)

Mixing and matching insulation good or bad?

Mike George — Mon, 30 Apr 2007 19:14:36 +0100

Hi,

I have been debating this idea with a colleague and would like some other opinions:

Is it a bad idea to mix insulation such as mineral wool and PUR in a warm roof applicatIon. Specifically mineral wool between the rafters and t&g PUR over the top? I have always avoided this but I am being told that there is no problem, any thoughts?

DG units in new or existing sash windowcases

fostertom — Sun, 01 Apr 2007 15:50:25 +0100

From http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/forum/index2.php?DATEIN=tpc_hnovqhocr_1163970597&LP=true

>brand new sashes can be fitted within existing sash windowcases, allowing optimum-thickness (24mm, with 16mm airgap) DG units in best-practice deep rebates using dry glazing tapes, rather than bedding in mastic (which is death to dg units).

New sashes can be 56mm or more deep, in place of the usual 44mm. The bit that runs in the frame remains 44dp; extra depth spreads inboard and outboard within the depth of the staff bead and the fixed outer facing (whatever that's called); it's surprisingly unnoticeable. The sightline width remains 44mm, as normal.

The sashes are glazed-in, not glazed-out. The normal bevelled putty profile is reproduced as part of the outboard rebate platform. Inboard there's a timber bead incorporating the usual mould shape. Hell, difficult to describe. Anyone who wants, I'll post a drawing - email me at info at space-and-light dot co dot uk. I've failed to send same to 2 people who've requested same previously - I will do it, promise.

Sash weights will have to be doubled in weight, to counterbalance 2 panes instead of one (the timber weight is negligible compared with the glass)<

Here at last is the detail - hope it works here: http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c301/fostertom/Waterheadwindows.jpg

It shows newbuild sash windowcase but such sashes *can* also be fitted into existing windowcases, with a stepped-edge to the sash - I'd describe further if nec.