Tue, 19 Dec 2023 04:10:52 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17521 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17521 Wed, 20 Jul 2022 15:19:38 +0100 lineweight
I understand the basic principle and for sure it is good advice in many cases, but it doesn't necessarily make sense in all buildings, does it?

For example, presumably anywhere with limited thermal mass indoors (eg internally insulated buildings) will see much less benefit from this strategy than buildings with a lot of thermal mass (and especially exernally-insulated solid wall buildings).

In may cases it will rely largely on stopping a volume of cool-ish air from (a) being replaced by warmer air from outside and (b) being warmed up by heat energy making its way through walls and windows . Without very good insulation and some amount of thermal mass, surely it's only a matter of time before it reaches a similar temperature to the outside air. Isn't it likely that that amount of time might only be a few hours in many UK buildings? In which case, keeping the windows closed beyond mid-morning or lunchtime might become counter-productive.

The other issue (and the reason I chose to keep certain windows open during the last couple of days) is that you lose the benefit of changing the air (for stuffiness) and if there's a breeze the benefit of moving air (for cooling).

I was interested to see if there was anything I could look up to compare the cooling effect (on a human) of, let's say, stationary air at 30 degrees versus moving air at 35 degrees.

I can find various "wind chill" calculators but they are all aimed at examining effects at much lower temperatures.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17553 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17553 Wed, 31 Aug 2022 09:57:10 +0100 greenfinger
I've got a repair to do where an old wood stove flue used to go through the roof, but has since been taken down. Water had been leaking through and caused some rot to the rafter, which I will "sister" with some new timber.

What I don't know is whether it would be a good idea to repair/replace the sarking board, and the felt on top of it? If so, is it possible to do what needs doing from inside the room? Or is the only option to strip back slates and repair from above. Would prefer to do it from inside if at all possible.

Any opinions and suggestions on how best to approach this would be most appreciated.

Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17545 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17545 Mon, 22 Aug 2022 18:55:00 +0100 Rex
When we built the house and before the foundations where constructed, we installed a 6000 litre roto-moulded ploy tank to collect rainwater.

A few months later, there was a problem in that since it was yet to be connected to the downpipes and since the groundworkers had been using the water to clean their machinery, hydro-static pressure got between the tank and the concrete, causing one convex end to 'pop' inward to become concave. I had an engineer report but insurance wanted someone to be guilty. The ground workers had long since gone and had more or less, installed it correctly; it has not 'floated' out of the ground. There was no way to prove that the tank itself was faulty; result was that we have managed to live with a reduced volume, probably around 5000 litres.

However, due to this prolonged period of no rain, the tank is empty until a few weeks ago, when we had a bit of rain in the south-east. The tank is now around 1/3 full, but when I was checking, I think the concave is increasing, which means there is hydro-static pressure behind the tank. That in itself is strange as we have not had sufficient rain to raise the water table.

So my question is, what can I do? Removal is pretty much out of the question. Grateful for any ideas.

The photo is of the interior with the red line 'kinda' showing the concave end, which sold be 'popped' the other way.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17546 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17546 Mon, 22 Aug 2022 23:42:58 +0100 Tyrone_
As you can see access is limited (just under 30mm) but I have 340mm long nozzles (for silicone etc cartridges) which could apply sealant to the vents.

Which sealant might last longest? (Mastic, Tec 7 etc.)

Any other ideas welcome.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17548 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17548 Tue, 23 Aug 2022 12:36:19 +0100 Ally
I'm wondering if using a click system and floating the floor completely over an old fashioned fibreboard type underlay be a possible solution to optimising breathablilty on top of a limecrete sub floor?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17544 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17544 Sun, 21 Aug 2022 20:25:57 +0100 Hedgehog
Does anyone have a sedum roof in the Leeds area that would allow us to take some cuttings, we are on a budget and every penny saved means more hedgehogs treated. Also does anyone have a list of varieties used in sedum roofs? We would like it to ideally have a range of colours, but it will be only on 45mm of substrate and in Yorkshire the temperature does get cold so need to be hardy. Looking for product suggestions for the green wall, looking to grow strawberries in it but were looking for a foliage background.

Has anyone any comments from their experience on the upkeep / success?

We look after 100's of hedgehogs a year. www.pricklypigs.co.uk or look us up on facebook.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17532 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17532 Wed, 03 Aug 2022 11:45:35 +0100 dickster
I'm retiring, having spent many a long hour in my office gleaning information and advice from the forum over the last 20 years.

In that time, we've built a lovely house in the New Forest and I think I can say without doubt that without the forum's existence, the house would not be as fantastic as it is, so thanks very very very much for all your help over the years everybody.

Pip Pip!:bigsmile:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17538 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17538 Fri, 12 Aug 2022 14:09:10 +0100 mitchino
They are offering very attractive lease payments, far in excess of what we can achieve for agricultural or equestrian rental.

I'm trying to find more info on this. There are a few discussions on the topic on farmers forums, it seems to be a relatively new 'thing'. Lots of advice about using a land agent to negotiate etc and tying up legalities etc. I haven't yet found anyone who has got further than the early stages of the process.

I just wondered if any of the experts on here had any further knowledge or advice to share on this topic.

It does have a whiff of "if it looks too good to be true, it generally is", but I'm keen to learn more before rejecting the idea.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17534 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17534 Sun, 07 Aug 2022 08:44:58 +0100 thebeacon
I'm planning on building a garden room and currently drawing up a design. I will have ground screw foundations installed and have asked the company also to build the subframe platform using 45x150mm joists. The garden room will be 4x3.5 metres, there will be 12 screws, and the front door will be on the 4m wall. The 4m wall will also be the highest point of the sloping roof. The roof slops from 4m wall to 4m walls.

The ground screw company sent me a plan of the timber subframe (see attached image), It's not included in the plan, but the parimeter will be double wrapped in joists. The majority of the joists run from the 3.5m wall to the other 3.5m wall. When I look at building designs, the floor joists run parallel with the roof joists. Is there a reason why the floor and roof joists should run parallel? Would it be ok to have them running perpendicular?

Thanks in advance,
Tom]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17540 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17540 Mon, 15 Aug 2022 08:53:51 +0100 Rex
Not a house building question, but a boundary one.

I own one sections of the boundary fence of a maisonette that we rent out. The fence is normal, boards rubbish wood that has probably been there over twenty years and is overgrown with ivy, so ti needs replacing.

The verticals are concrete posts with the mortice for the arras rails to fit into. But as the rails were probably installed as the posts were put into the ground, it all works.

Since the arras rail is longer than the distance between post, is it possible to replace the rails without digging out the posts. Seems like it should be but for the life of me, I cannot see how it can be done.

Toodle pip and thanks.

Rex]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17536 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17536 Sun, 07 Aug 2022 20:26:05 +0100 Rex
I started the thread http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17517 because of what seems to be a dead under cupboard light and figure that LED replacement may be the way to go.

However, of the five lights, only one is dodgy and that does sometimes turn on, but after X minutes, starts to flicker and dies.

I figured it was the starter but as they are very small lights, there is not starter, just a bunch of electric bits and a ballast. Obviously, as it does come on (sometimes) the problem is either a poor connection (I did check them all and they seems fine) or something else, but I have no idea where to start to isolate the component and may be , find a replacement.

Any ideas gratefully taken on board.

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17537 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17537 Thu, 11 Aug 2022 22:23:11 +0100 fostertom https://easac.eu/media-room/press-releases/details/easac-welcomes-that-the-jrc-report-strengthens-the-case-for-shorter-payback-periods-on-woody-biomass]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17533 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17533 Wed, 03 Aug 2022 18:15:07 +0100 tychwarel I am thinking of fitting external shutters to them hopefully to mitigate both problems. My thoughts are towards Louvre type to allow some light in and fresh air.
Please can people advise on suppliers, fitters etc Area South East Wales]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17523 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17523 Thu, 21 Jul 2022 10:55:03 +0100 fostertom https://mailchi.mp/passivehouseplus/building-a-better-passive-school?e=04983d3d80

"the airtight layer consists of Medite Smartply OSB3 with careful taping at junctions and between panels"

My 'standard' construction is:

pbd & skim
on studwork/raftering
with 11mm OSB3 gapfilling glued and screwed (or nailed) externally,
full filled with blown-in cellulose (Warmcel);
EPS 'EWI' outboard of the OSB3
acrylic rendered.

I have the OSB3 as vapour-breatheable but airtight layer, supplemented by the fair airtightness of the blown-in Warmcel. But the airtightness of OSB3 is widely questioned, as it's not quality-controlled or specified by the manufacturers. I've relied on hearing Regional PH Assessor Peter Warm say "I've never had to fault OSB3 as airtight layer of a PH". Robust, somewhat self-healing airtightness without membranes and tapes.

When I did the WUFI course in Dublin, a boffin from Coillte (Medite Smartpky) was there and he put me down for an 'expert' consultation panel, as Coillte intended to address this issue. Instead they came out with plastic-coated Propassiv Smartply, which completely missed the point, as the need was for OSB3 quality-controlled to be airtight but vapour open.

Apart from all that, the article is full of PH buildability tips described competently enough to be technically useful.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17530 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17530 Sun, 31 Jul 2022 13:19:39 +0100 CX23882
What is the best approach for sealing the frame against the reveal?

I know many windows get installed with expanding foam, but the stuff makes such a mess no matter how carefully it's applied. Since the secondary glazing has a hollow profile, I was thinking about sticking Compriband expanding tape within the outer "U" of the profile, so that it expands out against the reveal on all 4 sides. Then, I would finish with a bead of sealant inside and "out" and then trims.

I've never used Compriband before. Is it realistic to expect that I would be able to open a roll of it, stick it to the frame (2.4m x 1.2m), and get the frame in place before it has expanded too much (i.e. before it becomes larger than the reveal opening)? I was thinking of a dry-run fit, where I pre-drill all the necessary holes for the actual fixing, stick the Compriband on, and then go for it.

Or should I just go with expanding foam?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17529 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17529 Sat, 30 Jul 2022 16:42:57 +0100 Rex
Around the house, we have three basins with Ideal Standard Ceraplan monobolc mixer taps with waste lever. Very much like this: https://plumbing-gear.com/ideal-standard-ceraplan-basin-mixer-tap-with-pop-up-waste-chrome-b7886aa-b7886-2706-p.asp

For reasons that I don't understand, one of the taps has become loose (ish) and needs the simple task of tightening. Not a problem until I look underneath and cannot for the life of me, see how to do it. All illustrations I can find show a large C washer that the stud passes through with a nuts to tighten.

But all mine have whatever it is, as shown in the photo. And the waste rod passes through the middle.

What am I missing as I cannot see how to tighten it.

Grateful of some insight.

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17517 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17517 Sat, 16 Jul 2022 14:31:39 +0100 Rex
When we built, we bought all the kitchen bits and bobs from Ikea and that included the under cupboard lights, which a some kinda mini-florescent tube.

Recently, one annoyingly, switches off after a couple of minutes. Figuring it is the tube, I found they are virtually no longer available, but did bust the bank to buy two replacement tubes at around £20 a shot! Unfortunately, that did not cure the problem. Perhaps it's the the ballast or whatever, which will be impossible to find.

So considering replace all the under cupboard lights with an Ikea LED (https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/mittled-led-kitchen-worktop-lighting-strip-dimmable-white-90528568/) or similar.

At the moment, there are a total of five lights, all linked (daisy chained) one after the other as the directions offered.

But an LED replacement will need a driver. Is this one driver into which, each lamp individually plugs, or can the lights be daisy chained together supplied by one driver? Or is is one individual driver for each lamp?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17402 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17402 Sat, 26 Feb 2022 16:23:25 +0000 borpin
First Ventilation Land - avoid! BPC did not have any 160mm fittings in stock, so I went to Ventilation Land - 2 x fittings damaged on arrival and over a week later I am yet to get the replacements. The CS is terrible.

The ports are in different positions on the new unit to the old one so it needed a little surgery. Happily all the pipework was the insulated flexible pipe of which I had a bit of spare still. However, I did find the supply pipe had quite a bit of debris in it which I was slightly surprised by. I am going to fit an inline filter to catch this before it gets to the Komfovent unit. The old unit was very accessible more by luck than design and in designing a house, I suggest anyone makes sure they can replace these units as I do think they have a limited lifespan. Getting a 60kg lump into a loft could be challenging!

If you go for this unit and have a computer/smart phone, then you can control the unit without the display screen (controller) for £250 odd quid. I was led to believe you did need the wall unit :(

Pleasantly surprised by the unit. gradually experimenting on what can be controlled by HomeAssistant, but so far plenty so should be able to reduce the power consumption considerably by controlling the flow depending on what is going on and who is home.

Finally, if anyone wants some Helios EC 500 spares, let me know!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17528 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17528 Thu, 28 Jul 2022 21:54:51 +0100 fostertom
Well, is it or isn't it? Does easy-build on farmland really make housing cheaper or more abundant, let alone get youngsters a foot on the ladder?
What if brownfield really was all that's available? There's no shortage of obsolescent land-use, and doesn't necessarily mean polluted land.
Wouldn't the housebuilders (or maybe some new kind of organisation or corporation) work out how to make a mass-market out of it?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17494 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17494 Mon, 20 Jun 2022 13:33:21 +0100 fostertom https://www.theguardian.com/money/2022/jun/20/net-zero-rules-set-to-send-cost-of-new-homes-and-extensions-soaring

"double-glazed windows will require trickle vents to let heat escape"

They could have led with the end-bit that's nearer the truth:

“As the marketplace adapts to the new requirements, and the technologies that support them, the scaling up of these technologies will eventually bring costs down, but in the short term, we will all have to pay the price of the necessary transition”

"However, the long-term effects of the changes will be more comfortable and energy-efficient homes ... Homeowners will probably recoup that cost over time in energy bill savings.”

"In the future, there will be increased competition between companies to supply insulation technology ... which should result in lower prices."]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17524 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17524 Fri, 22 Jul 2022 11:58:21 +0100 WeeBeastie
Are these available in the UK? Does anyone have them? Are there downsides/benefits in use? I assume they are more difficult to weatherproof and can interfere with internal window coverings and space, but they must get around these issues in other countries.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17525 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17525 Fri, 22 Jul 2022 20:24:07 +0100 ealingbadger
I have given them the benefit of my lay person's advice (I've been studying in detail the possibilities for the various different types of insulation for my own projects for many years) but what they really need now is professional assistance from an independent surveyor - not a salesman masquerading as a surveyor whilst working for a firm that fits particular types of insulation.

The building looks somewhat like a Nissen hut but it is not actually a Nissen hut. This is just shorthand to describe the general shape. It has a curved roof (asphalt felt on top) supported by very strong concrete walls.

An internal view of the hall can be found here:

https://parishofbrentford.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/st-faiths-parish-of-brentford-playroom-scaled640.jpg

The actual hall is about twice as deep as it appears in this photo.

They are looking at insulating the roof and replacing the original Crittall windows. The roof insulation could be internal or external, but external is likely to be ruled out on cost grounds. As also will be (I strongly suspect) replacing the windows like-for-like as well.

They have been quoted for spray insulation on the underside of the ceiling but I (and several others) have steered them away from this.

The building dates from 1957 and it has an asbestos survey report. There is asbestos in it. For certain the soffits and exterior end elevations are asbestos and it is quite likely (though nobody is certain) that the ceiling panels (that can be seen in the photo) are also asbestos. I have not seen this report personally.

There is a grant available from the local council to assist them with the costs of the insulation work.

Does anybody know of where they might be able to get some professional advice and assistance to take this project forward on a more 'eco' basis please?

The building is in Brentford, West London.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15804 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15804 Tue, 17 Jul 2018 16:43:44 +0100 owlman The last one a phone call today went like this:-

"Hello Sir, we're in your area next week, and we'd like to do a meter upgrade."..... ( my eyebrows start to raise )

Me; Why?

"Its a universal meter, sir"

Me; I'm curious, please explain.

"It'll allow you to change suppliers"

Me; One check of your records will show that I already did that; changing to your company two months ago, using the existing meter.

"This is a universal meter"

Me; What do you mean by that?

"It'll allow you to change suppliers"

Me; But I already did that. ( I'm just giving her the runaround by now )

"Silence"

Me; tell me, is it a Smart meter you wish to fit?

"No sir it's a universal meter"

Me; ( I'm getting bored by now ) I assume its a SMETs 1, and I don't want one.

"It'll allow you to change suppliers more easily"

Me; No it won't, It'll allow YOU to take reading remotely, but when my contract with you ends the chances are it'll revert to standard metering which is no different from the one I have now. Feel free to call me if and when you start a rollout for SMETs 2 but the answer may be the same, and I may even wait for SMETs 3 and maybe some improved security.

"SILENCE, then some indecipherable conferring in the background, -- line dead."

Question is:-
Are these companies on some sort of commission for the number of installs. Are they trying to get rid of a shed-load of SMETs 1 meters on the unsuspecting, before rolling out SMETs 2. I had a look at the Ofgem website but apparently they don't take calls/complaints about individual suppliers.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17519 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17519 Mon, 18 Jul 2022 12:52:03 +0100 fostertom https://www.theguardian.com/business/2022/jul/18/uk-energy-cheaper-rates-electricity-bills

"Officials said such a move could send “sharp” signals to encourage consumers to be more flexible in their usage and seek cheaper, greener energy at certain times"
and
"The initiative would minimise network costs by bringing electricity demand closer to supply"]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17514 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17514 Mon, 11 Jul 2022 15:28:54 +0100 BenM
I was just wondering what temperatures people are registering on their panels this week?

We have two Joules solar thermal panels on our south facing roof, and they’ve topped out at about 75c today. Ambient temp is 29c. Tank is at 68c.

I seem to remember last year, when it was this warm, that the panels were a lot hotter, at 120c and the tank was approaching 85c. I’m just wondering if there is potentially an issue resulting in them not getting as hot? Certainly feels as hot as last year, but not seeing that on the panels.

The 350l gledhill thermal store tank this morning was at 45c before the sun hit the panels, post showers!

Cheers

Ben]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17518 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17518 Sun, 17 Jul 2022 00:11:17 +0100 Victorianeco
So what is the next best alternative for our garden?

We have had artificial grass down for 7 years but looking tired and worn. We have 2 children and a dog so we want something that can be easily cleaned and also safe.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17498 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17498 Fri, 24 Jun 2022 12:02:15 +0100 Shevek
Studs and rafters are i-joists]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17508 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17508 Tue, 05 Jul 2022 11:10:04 +0100 philedge
AIUI if two or more rings are on full then the rings run at full power and will draw what they need from available PV and grid. If two or more rings are on half power then theyre powered intermittently and if that intermittent powering was interlocked to only power one ring at a time then 2 x 2kw rings could run on 2kw of PV without drawing on the grid. Without interlocking, as our current hob, sometimes both rings can power at once and use the 2kw of PV and 2kw of grid power. Anyone know of any hobs that work this way with interlocking?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17510 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17510 Fri, 08 Jul 2022 00:33:13 +0100 fostertom https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2022/jul/07/plant-based-meat-by-far-the-best-climate-investment-report-finds

“Alternative proteins have received only a fraction of the investment deployed in other sectors,” the BCG report said. “Buildings have received 4.4 times more mitigation capital than food production, even though building emissions are 57% lower than those tied to food production.” Switching from conventional meat to alternatives is also much less disruptive to consumers than flying less or retrofitting their homes, the report said.

Retrofitting as Offsetting for addicted meat-eaters?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17488 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17488 Wed, 15 Jun 2022 11:32:49 +0100 Lehobbit
I have recently removed all the parquet flooring and joists from the second floor of our renovation project in France, an old granite built house in Haute Correze in the Massif Central.

Every joist had either rotted out in the wall or been attacked by Carpenter Ants, (probably due to moisture from a leaky leading edge on the slate tiled roof- now temporarily fixed until our new roof).

I have a load of new but s/h red cedar and some oak joists which are 200mm x 80mm. These will sit on an existing main central support beam in oak which runs parallel to the front and rear walls of the house.

The old joists were irregular sizes and spacing so the wall sockets are also uneven.

As the new joists are all regular I want to space them evenly at 400mm centres so it looks neat. I also want to keep them out of the walls.

I plan to fill in all the sockets with granite stone and a NHL 3.5 lime and sand mix. I then plan to use some of the joists I have (probably the oak ones) to fix wall/ledger plates to the front and rear walls in 4 metre sections. To these I will use either joist hangers or ledger strips with notches to the end of the beams to sit on the strips.

Overall I have just under 12 metres length of wall front and rear to cover in three seperate wall/ledger plates

I want advice on fixing with threaded rods and chemical resin? Anyone done this..how hard is it?

The total second floor area is around 85m2.

For each 4 metre long ledger plate how many threaded fixings would be needed. I have read somewhere that I should use M16 rod at 40cm length into the wall? This seems a lot to me? If my joists are spaced at 400mm centres along the ledger plate how should I space my threaded rods...one every metre or one every 500mm or another distance?

On a 12 metre run I am going to be drilling many holes into granite!!

The walls are about 600mm thick.

Advice appreciated

Regards Paul in Haute Correze]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17503 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17503 Wed, 29 Jun 2022 00:11:35 +0100 stevethefarm
Using room arranger I sent scale drawing floor plans including dimensions and provided 3D elevations of the design that I wanted to build. For planning purposes I wanted the drawings in CAD format (beyond my skill level) so the company produced SketchUp images and CAD elevations and floor plans.

The only addition/variation to my drawings/design was the addition of one window and a change of cladding on one elevation otherwise they are entirely as I provided (it states "as client drawings" on some of the documents.)

The company have since produced a quote far beyond my budget and far in excess of other prices for comparable builds. However when the final drawings were produced the words "designs are the property of company" in bold were added to all the drawings.

During a phone call early on in discussions they mentioned that they "had been stung before" and become frosty when I expressed my concern about the price estimate they provided.

Should I proceed with the build either myself or via another company do I need to be concerned about the company who produced the initial drawings attempting to take ownership of the design? I feel that in order to protect themselves from losing work that they are attempting to ownership of my design ideas.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17507 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17507 Mon, 04 Jul 2022 15:42:51 +0100 rsk1 https://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/products/performance-triple-glazed-timber-entrance-doors/

or rationel:
https://rationel.co.uk/guidance/aura-auraplus/

Both of these manufacture in northern europe. Are there any uk manufacturers making doors to a similar spec? I favour timber, but in terms of u values, should i ( in peoples' opinion) be thinking about steel and PUR, or whatever composite doors are made of? Is there such a thing as a timber door with foam core?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17497 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17497 Wed, 22 Jun 2022 15:40:13 +0100 fostertom
In Brexit-bastion Cornwall ("What's Europe ever done for us?"),
"£6.2m of funding from the EU’s European Regional Development Fund (ERDF). Hundreds of homes, both new build and older houses and bungalows, in three areas of Cornwall will be linked up to the new system of underground heating"

"The first boreholes were drilled this month in the streets, to install a network of pipes to draw heat from the rock beneath, and feed into heat pumps in individual properties"

Well yes, but apart from that, what's Europe ever done for us?

https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2022/jun/22/eu-legislation-restoration-ecosystems-biodiversity-aoe

"targets released by the European Commission include reversing the decline of pollinator populations and restoring 20% of land and sea by 2030, with all ecosystems to be under restoration by 2050. The commission also proposed a target to cut the use of chemical pesticides in half by 2030"

"Around €100bn (£85bn) will be available for spending on biodiversity, including the restoration of ecosystems"

Good job we took back our own way to water down measures then.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17506 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17506 Mon, 04 Jul 2022 12:48:45 +0100 Rex
When we built, I did not install sufficient external taps for garden watering. Last year, I corrected that by installing the blue mains water pipe around the house to feed a number of taps. All is OK, no leaks, etc but .....

The feed for these additional taps is a short hose connection from the mains external tap to the 25mm blue. The tap end has a HoseLock connection, the other end has universal fitting (photo) clamped over a length of length of 15mm copper (which is fitted to the blue pipe with the proper connection) and the hose, just 'clamped' into the top, as per normal hose fittings.

The problem is that the water pressure pop the hose out of the 'clamp' (arrowed.)

My question is, is there a better / more secure method to connect the hose to the universal clamp? The problem seems very basic in that the male section of the clamp, that fits inside the hose, is not sufficiently long to make a solid connection.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17505 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17505 Sun, 03 Jul 2022 17:28:58 +0100 tvrulesme
The floor is for a kitchen so worried about staining the tiles but I don't want to reduce the breathability.

Does anyone know of a limestone sealant which will still allow the floor to breath? Seen a few manufacturers claim this in their product but would hate to mess this up after all the hard work.

Floor detail attached]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17502 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17502 Tue, 28 Jun 2022 11:34:17 +0100 modernvictorian http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17500 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17500 Sat, 25 Jun 2022 17:42:36 +0100 owlman My original N' Power administered FITs ( excellent BTW ), were automatically transferred to an Eon account and since then I've had constant problems submitting my readings.
I'm curious if anyone else has had similar issues.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17496 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17496 Wed, 22 Jun 2022 10:30:13 +0100 Rex
I have a regular blockage with one of the g/f toilets. Because the water fills so quickly, I assume the blockage is clse to the toilet itself, but I don't know the best way to alleviate the issue.

I use the word ' regular' because it is; my normal solution is the pressure washer with the 15m pipe cleaning pipe and generally blast it clear. But that does not get into the 90 degree bends.

Obviously the toilet has the normal U bend, then into a 90 elbow for about 60 cms, before entering the downpipe, which in turn, has a elbow at its base to flow under the house. My feeling is the problem is with one of the first two bends but I don't know how to clear it.

I do have a flexible 'snake' thing but doubt if this can negotiate a U bend and two 90 degrees; I would hate to get it jammed!!!

Don't think a plunger will work as the wash basin, tundish from the boiler , and kitchen sink drain all use the same downpipe so the pressure would only escape via the overflows. But also, it does drain so pressure will not blast the blockage out.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17495 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17495 Wed, 22 Jun 2022 07:39:29 +0100 Victorianeco
It needs to be decent quality as it is for my business for letters etc. Of course, we try not to print where possible but just need something half decent

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17492 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17492 Fri, 17 Jun 2022 11:01:50 +0100 fostertom https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2022/jun/17/pollutionwatch-hydrogen-power-climate-leaks

"Two government reports show hydrogen is a climate-heating gas, with a 100-year global warming potential that is about 11 times greater than carbon dioxide."

"hydrogen does not have a direct effect on climate. Instead, it affects other pollutants ... methane, the second-most important global warming gas, would stay in our air for longer and have more impact ... change the amount of ozone in our atmosphere ... change the amount of water vapour in the atmosphere and affect our stratosphere, adding to the climate impact."

“Neither government nor the gas industry in the UK have any idea what the natural gas leakage rate is, so why do we expect hydrogen leakage to be any different?"
AFAIK it would automatically be much greater, as tiny hydrogen molecules can squirt more freely, and through smaller gaps]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17490 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17490 Wed, 15 Jun 2022 20:30:34 +0100 djh
Rather than just repair the tap or replace it though I have a broader question. I've found that many things don't attach to the tap's screw thread in a leak-free way. Sometimes the female thread can't screw far enough onto the male thread to make the seal tight. The water is normally at 3 bar - limited at the mains inlet.

Are there any outdoor plumbing systems that are foolproof where all the components can be semi-permanently fastened together without leaks? And there's a good combination of components - taps, junctions, adapters to hose fittings etc etc.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17493 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17493 Sat, 18 Jun 2022 13:18:29 +0100 Rex
Following a previous thread (http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17452) I have now decided on the way forward. Probably a bit of a bodge, but will most likely see out my lifetime.

Plan to fit a timber drip edge just below the top of the wall on both sides, then cover the top and drip edge with FlashBand. Fortunately, it will work with 600mm FlashBand. At least this will prevent sitting water on the top being absorbed into the brick and mortar.

I will be applying FB primer first, but this raises some questions as I have never used it before.

The wall is 9m long which may make installing the FB tricky. Does the primer dry to be non-tacky or is it like contact adhesive where the first contact between the FB and primer is kinda final?

I am considering applying the primer and then the FB in 1m sections as working with a 9m length of sticky stuff will not be easy. How long does the primer need before the FB can be applied?

Any advice will be appreciated.

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17258 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17258 Fri, 29 Oct 2021 10:33:23 +0100 Rex
Unfortunately, not a building question but definitely green related.

I have a Parkside (Lidl) wet/dry vac that had seen many years of excellent service. Yesterday, annoyingly, it gave up the ghost. With two options available, discard or check the problem and perhaps repair, I chose the latter.

Very simply, it was a burnt ot carbon brush that is theoretically, easy to replace.

The attached photo is what I took out and I can find many possible matches on the internet (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383709765591?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338722076&toolid=10001). But none have measurements.

I mailed one ebay seller and had the following reply, "Fits for 30/60/70/80/90L Industrial Vacuum Cleaners." Which is not exactly an answer to my question.

My vac is a Parkside 30/7E but given its age, I cannot find any parts related reference.

Am I correct in assuming that all this 'type' for 30/60/70L vacs are a universal fit?

Thanks and toodle pip.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17489 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17489 Wed, 15 Jun 2022 11:46:16 +0100 LizM http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17487 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17487 Mon, 13 Jun 2022 12:49:38 +0100 borpin
I have found the Sika VTL20 which looks ideal, but cannot find any suppliers.

Does anyone have any suggestions?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17403 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17403 Tue, 01 Mar 2022 17:13:50 +0000 lsx
I have been searching on this forum for advice on sealing up / insulating my chimney. I've found a really good thread from 2014, but obviously I'm about 8 years late to add to the thread.

http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12781

In the above there's a post from JT101 who helpfully pulled together various other threads and summarised the best way of 'minimally' insulating your chimney as follows:

Put a ventilated rain cowl/cap on the chimney pots.
Now plug the bottom of the flue with a chimney balloon or similar.
Ventilate the top part of the chimney e.g. in a cold attic 450mm up from the ceiling below it. Remove a brick or two and replace with an airbrick or aluminium louvre.
This will prevent ¾ of heat loss through the flue. Note an airbrick/vent is not needed at the bottom of internal chimney.


My house is a late-victorian mid-terrace that has a full length cellar, an originally-converted attic and two chimney breasts with five flues in total. Of the five flues, two have been sealed at room level for maybe 30-40 years. The other 3 are unused (so I don't have any heating appliances in them) but are unsealed at room level.

I was thinking of plugging the bottom of the open flues with a metal plate that has a cleaning hatch in it so I can clear out the 'parge' that falls down every so often. My thoughts are a metal plate would be better than just 'shoving a chimney balloon' up there and hoping it seals well, but not as much work to undo as bricking the flue up.

Has anyone got any experiences of installing a plate as opposed to just going with a balloon?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17484 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17484 Sun, 05 Jun 2022 22:17:19 +0100 ComeOnPilgrim http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17480 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17480 Wed, 01 Jun 2022 09:06:05 +0100 Elliottvilla
I have read with much interest and balance the discussion on filling a sub-floor void with EPS beads. As I have only around 0.4m height crawlspace this may be my best option. For those that have used this method, was it easy to find an installer prepared to do the job? A DIY soluition would, IMO, not provide sufficient fill etc.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17470 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17470 Mon, 16 May 2022 15:47:00 +0100 fostertom https://www.theguardian.com/world/2022/may/16/russia-renault-moscow-factory-revive-soviet-era-moskvitch-car

“Russia has invented a time machine ... it can move the whole country through time, but only back into the Soviet Union.”]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17478 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17478 Tue, 31 May 2022 16:31:18 +0100 Nick Parsons
They have 2 'energy bikes' (pedal hard and run a radio, light-bulb, whatever - that sort of thing) and some 'wind models' demonstrating the square and cube rules. I have only just had an e-mail (and have no further details) but get the impression that they will be dumped if a good home cannot be found.

It's a long-shot but if anyone is involved in a project which could use this sort of thing please send me an e-mail to greenbuildingsheffield@gmail.com. The stuff is in Yorkshire.]]>