Tue, 19 Dec 2023 03:24:34 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17880 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17880 Wed, 28 Jun 2023 14:32:22 +0100 CJT http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17793 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17793 Thu, 23 Mar 2023 17:33:15 +0000 cc64
Further to the cavity-crossing work, I removed more floor covering, uncovering cracked screed as I progressed, stopping only when the cracks did. This identified the pipe for the house gas supply as a nucleation point for screed failure.

This is a 27mm diam pipe, crossing the entrance hall, and resting directly on the blocks of the beam and block floor. It serves a boiler and gas hob. The pipe was flanked by 25mm EPS, and also overtopped by the same, before the screed was poured/laid. The overtopping was not a good idea, reducing the (otherwise 40mm thick) screed to 18mm, and making of the pipe a fulcrum for the 500mm lever of screed to the front door - hardy surprising the screed failed over the pipe.

Question is re;fixing this and what particular regs apply to such gas source pipes? It is sleeved through the wall. With generous ventilation gaps both within the sleeve and outside it; any reason not to reach for my Soudal AWS airtight foam to fill those gaps?

The flanking EPS stops 20mm short of each side of the pipe and that gap filled with very fine granular materials. This looks slightly more structured than the usual lackadaisical construction quality I'm dealing with in this house. Is this detail regs related?

Likewise the overtopping with EPS - this is a shockingly bad idea in terms of its impact on screed longevity - but was it done as per some aspect of regs e.g. perhaps the pipe ought not to be encased in screed directly?

Can anyone here point me in the right direction on these details? Is the filled flanking gap between pipe and EPS required? And the overtopping EPS? Or am I ok directly to embed that gas pipe in the new screed without any such flanking gaps or overtopping EPS?

I can imagine the pipe (steel) will be subject to thermal expansion/contraction - which wouldn't do much good to any screed bonded to it; is preventing that bond the objective for the flanking loose fill gaps and the EPS overtop?

Thanks. And happy to hear any other tips from those practiced in the art which will almost certainly come as news to me.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17695 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17695 Fri, 13 Jan 2023 16:24:46 +0000 GreenPaddy
Scotland mandates Passivhaus equivalent legislation
A seismic change in building standards is underway in Scotland.

All new build homes in Scotland will soon have to meet greater levels of energy efficiency after the Scottish Government agreed to progress legislation proposed by Scottish Labour MSP Alex Rowley.

In December 2022 Scottish government ministers announced plans to make all new build housing meet a Scottish equivalent to the Passivhaus standard within the next two years. Work to develop the standard will commence early in 2023, seeking the laying of amending regulations in mid-December 2024.

This is HUGE and a potentially game-changing move for building performance, comfort, energy bills, and climate action in Scotland! Its ripples will extend far beyond Scotland and is already attracting global attention.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4536 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4536 Thu, 10 Sep 2009 13:17:04 +0100 tony
I definitely prefer a vapour barrier which doubles as an air barrier and is continuous.

Any other opinions?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17460 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17460 Wed, 27 Apr 2022 22:00:11 +0100 Victorianeco
What are the regs. on running plastic pipe in the screed in one straight run with no joints underground?

This is replacing a previous leaking copper pipe

Thanks in advance]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17412 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17412 Wed, 09 Mar 2022 08:46:41 +0000 thebeacon
I’m designing a garden room but struggling to get the height under 2.5m to avoid planning permission. I submitted a pre-planning application and the council suggested it might be difficult to gain planning for a garden room over 2.5m because of the proximity of my neighbour’s house.

I’m currently looking into options for making it within 2.5m high. The size is 3.5m deep by 4m wide.

My current measurements look something like this:

180mm Roof
100mm lintel
2000mm door
18mm OSB subfloor
150mm joist with 100mm of insulation in
50mm Ground screw
0 ground level

Working from the ground up I’m left with 180mm for the roofing. That includes joists and a 70mm Firring strip to give the roof a 1:60 gradient. I originally wanted to construct a warm roof but think I would struggle with getting a well-insulated cold roof in under 2.5m.

From my research, it seems impossible to get roofing, joists and firring strips into 180mm while maintaining 90mm for insulation.

Does anyone have any suggestions of how I might be able to achieve the design coming at 2.5m?

I am currently researching using insulated roof panels that span 3.5m without using joists. There does seem to be a minimum gradient of 4d for a lot of these, and currently, the garden room is just over 1degrres.

Any suggestions or insights would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks,]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15335 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15335 Tue, 10 Oct 2017 16:14:50 +0100 caspen With luck, I can use that precedent and not reinvent the wheel!
Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15903 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15903 Mon, 22 Oct 2018 13:29:14 +0100 Pord
We're about to DIY build a strawbale house in Scotland and have one final matter to agree with Building Control - treatment of the solum - before we obtain Building Warrant.

Straw Works have been pushing for a free draining solum of compacted hardcore under the suspended insulated timber floor. However, BC want either a dpm treated with bitumen on 100mm hardcore, or 50mm concrete on top of a dpm, or 100mm concrete.

We're trying to keep the build as uncomplicated, affordable and sustainable as possible, so are still leaning towards the option of treated dpm on 100mm hardcore. Has anyone any experience of this? How technical/affordable a process is it?

Muchos ta in advance for any input.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17217 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17217 Thu, 30 Sep 2021 11:58:31 +0100 GreenPaddy
I've been checking Part L1A for a a friend based in England (I'm based in Scotland). I'm very familar with Scottish Regs, but haven't constructed in England for 12 years.

The L1A doc (conservation of fuel and power) is 2013 with 2016 revisions, as per the .gov.uk website. Am I really looking at the up to date document? No revisions in 5 years?? Scottish regs are updated every 2 years, more often for things like Fire, after serious incidents.

I'm specifically looking at the Air Tightness, which seems very sparse, only saying it's got to be 10m3/m2/hr or less to pass. No mention of low levels needing additional air inputs, eg. MVHR/passive vents required below 3m3/m2/hr.

Not asking for people to do my research, just wary that I'm missing something very obvious. :confused:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17105 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17105 Tue, 29 Jun 2021 08:25:33 +0100 Gareth J
They are of course, currently, tired and excited so not necessarily looking for problems at this stage but sooner rather than later I'd like to try to help them check things have at least been done towards current building standards while there's, hopefully, some chance of recourse. I know the horror stories and that I'd be very hesitant to buy one but that wasn't my decision. I would like to help them ensure what they have bought isn't needlessly rubbish.

Any useful resources? Or suggestions regarding sensible things to check?

Many thanks in advance]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17135 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17135 Wed, 28 Jul 2021 10:57:32 +0100 revor
https://iceboxchallenge.org/

As part of lead up to COP 26 Two boxes one built to PH standard the other Scottish building regs each containing 1 cubic metre of ice. Enter the competition to guess the weight left at end of test.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16899 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16899 Thu, 21 Jan 2021 22:29:48 +0000 tony
 
Draft Future Homes Standard specification
 
 
Floor U-value (W/m2.K) 0.11
External wall U-value (W/m2.K) 0.15
Roof U-value (W/m2.K) 0.11
Window U-value (W/m2.K) 0.8
Door U-value (W/m2.K) 1.0
Air permeability (m3/(h.m2) 5.0
Heating appliance Low-carbon heating (e.g. Heat pump)
Heat Emitter type Low temperature heating
Ventilation System type Natural (with extract fans)
PV None
Wastewater heat recovery No
y value (W/m2.K) 0.05

 
ENERGY USE REDUCTION - ENERGY DEMAND REDUCTION  should be the number one priority 
 
Floor U-value (W/m2.K)    0.1
External wall U-value (W/m2.K)    0.1
Roof U-value (W/m2.K)    0.1
Window U-value (W/m2.K)    0.7
Door U-value (W/m2.K)    1.0
Air permeability (m3/(h.m2)   1.0 or less
 
ventilation with Heat recovery essential
 
no more dormer windows unless U =0.1 for walls and roof
 
same for extensions 
 
The elephant in the room seems invisible, action on the existing stock is needed (some use it leverage poorer standards for new build).
 


 ]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16935 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16935 Wed, 17 Feb 2021 14:06:13 +0000 ajdunlop I will soon be improving a loft space accessed through a knee wall door (although not sure if I should be calling it a
knee wall as its 2m tall).

The door is currently about 850mm tall but I wondered about making it much taller to make access easier.

Currently the door has been made out of 18mm wood (not sure what).

The door is into the attic landing with 2 bedrooms off it. These both have proper fire doors and there is a further fire door separating the stair room from the main landing. The stair room has a sash window which I assume has been designated the means of escape from the attic rooms.

Therefore my question is what rules apply to my 'knee' wall access door? Should this have always been designated a fire door to preserve the escape route or are there different regulations for access to non habitable spaces?
And do any different rules apply if I was to make it taller ether for fire escape or anything else?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16916 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16916 Mon, 01 Feb 2021 07:56:18 +0000 John Pedersen
My garden has a 10 degree slope, facing south. I'm planning to build a greenhouse with a masonry wall partially dug into the ground on the north side, and to use a salvaged aluminium greenhouse for the glazing on the south side. The greenhouse will be 7.5m long (across the width of the garden) and 4m wide.

I've already built a smaller one in the garden, and it works nicely, with raised beds on the north side which give some structural support to the part of the wall that acts as a retaining wall.

For the second greenhouse, I'd like the north wall to be the maximum height I'm allowed, 2.5m, and have a single pitched roof of about 20 degrees.

My question is about how to build this north wall. It must need some structural design - building a single layer block wall seems precarious, as I don't want to rely on the roof structure to brace it. There'll be masonry returns at the ends - the north ends of the east and west walls can be masonry for a metre or more (the rest glass).

Lay the blocks flat so making the wall 220mm wide? Would that be sufficient? Maybe there's some more appropriate building material/method?

I've attached a sketch. Note, there a bit of a slope E-W too.

The ground levels are pretty accurate I believe. In the sketch, I've cut a level path down the length of the greenhouse. It's about 600mm deep at the west end.

On the south side a block wall under the glazed area seems straight forward. The salvaged greenhouse sides are 1.3m high, so a low block wall is needed underneath to give the required height.

The north wall, sketched in with blocks looks scarily dodgy. But it shows the scale and shape of things anyway.

The roof, I'm assuming corrugated PVC. Can't afford glass. The support for the roof will have to be timber, rafters to the top of the north wall, and some timber support on the south end of things, independent of the block/glazed south wall.

The west wall, I imagine to be masonry at the north end, to help support the north wall, and bits of salvaged greenhouse on the south end. Something similar for the east wall, except I'll put a door in the middle.


Thanks for any suggestions,

John]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16811 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16811 Sat, 21 Nov 2020 21:32:13 +0000 JulesB
We are modernising that part of the house and would like to sort this out. We will be removing the big sash window and replacing with two smaller windows (one each side like in a normal house). I guess I could extend the block wall (with stone rather than concrete block) so that it reaches the outer surface of the house and then windows in either side. Then fire can't get round and it would be like a 'normal house'. I don't mind doing that but wondered if there are any other solutions that would still provide adequate firestopping between the two houses maybe just with timber or metal windows side-by-side.

Many thanks for any help.

Jules]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16802 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16802 Mon, 16 Nov 2020 13:45:45 +0000 djh
Towards the bottom under Further Information there is text that appears to be a normal part of the content and is not marked as an advert but contains a link to a commercial third-party service. And only to that company, not to any competitors it may have.

Now I know that planningportal.co.uk is not a gov.uk site, but it is a joint venture with the Ministry of Housing, Communities and Local Government. I'd expect it's content to be fair and objective, not commercially biased, except perhaps in clearly marked advertisements.

Is it just me or is this unreasonable? :shocked:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16709 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16709 Fri, 11 Sep 2020 13:54:20 +0100 rsk1 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16649 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16649 Wed, 08 Jul 2020 20:57:26 +0100 djh
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-london-53339296 and lots of other news sites.

Somewhat interesting because it was being used as part of a 'modern methods of construction' using CLT modules.

https://www.swan.org.uk/home/news/swan-housing-association-and-the-mayor-of-tower-hamlets-celebrate-the-delivery-of-modular-homes-to-the-uk%E2%80%99s-first-mid-rise-clt-scheme-at-watts-grove.aspx

"This method of construction dramatically reduces disruption for the surrounding residents during construction"

Interesting to me personally because a friend who lives nearby has been evacuated - the water supply has been knocked out and there's concern about gas leaks and possible structural damage in the surrounding area apparently. Certainly dramatic but if it's a reduction in disruption I would hate to be next to the alternative type :)

What I can't make out is quite how the crane has collapsed. What type of crane is it? Some photos seem to show that its base has come off its mounting pad. The writing on the arm of the crane is upside down as it's now lying which suggests to me that it's somehow fallen up and over the top and fallen on its back????

Failure of the mounting bolts/studs? Or what?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16680 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16680 Thu, 06 Aug 2020 18:03:50 +0100 djh
I've started reading it but am having trouble with my attitude, so I'd like to hear if anybody else has formed an opinion yet?

PS Not sure whether this topic should be here or under Politics?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16624 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16624 Sat, 27 Jun 2020 18:32:44 +0100 frankieboy231 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16579 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16579 Fri, 29 May 2020 23:09:33 +0100 i_DaveJ Details: Foundations are about 300m below GL and DPC about 200mm above GL. EWI is EPS though will consider XPS below ground if EPS is not recommended. There will be a French drain at foundation level with gravel up to GL. I'd prefer an unbroken finish from soffit to ground i.e. without beading at DPC but could live with that if necessary.
There are a few posts about this but wondered if thinking had matured and a consensus of opinion had triumphed.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16564 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16564 Wed, 20 May 2020 20:39:07 +0100 mitchino http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16554 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16554 Sat, 16 May 2020 14:59:01 +0100 mitchino
In the new layout there will be a single sink, a shower, a bath and WC. What I want to know is, do I have to have the additional vertical air vent?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16273 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16273 Wed, 09 Oct 2019 18:07:27 +0100 djh
Research into ventilation and indoor air quality in new homes
Research into overheating in new homes

https://www.gov.uk/government/consultations/the-future-homes-standard-changes-to-part-l-and-part-f-of-the-building-regulations-for-new-dwellings]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16396 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16396 Sat, 11 Jan 2020 22:25:32 +0000 Kev.k
Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16387 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16387 Tue, 07 Jan 2020 15:10:37 +0000 ajdunlop
We are going to make use of a small chimney breast that runs from the ground floor ceiling to the loft for extract ducts to get between floors and use the chimney stack for the exhaust. The chimney is small (about 455 x 470 mm), probably used for a kitchen stove, and is up my neighbours wall so is within the thermal envelope of the building, Any chimney breast that existed in the ground floor has been removed by the brickwork being stepped at ceiling height (think it was done at least 20 years ago).

The ducts are rigid 125mm spiral metal ducts. Two of these will go down the chimney from the unit in the attic to the ground floor kitchen ceiling. One will then go one way along the ceiling and the other the other way.
Diagram of this: https://www.icloud.com/iclouddrive/0ad5p_MnT8l3zc16PT58yCYsw#Bottom_of_chimney

I had been hoping to have the ducts go between the joists in the ceiling but had forgotten that there are short support joists either side of the chimney that go between the wall and the joist in front of the chimney to take the ends of the joist running parallel to the wall.

Plan diagram: https://www.icloud.com/iclouddrive/05WUJoYtjQrCcT3XctCmknL7w#Joists_around_chimney_2"
Dodgy Isometric diagram: https://www.icloud.com/iclouddrive/0Th6iJQd3G9hCsCQlwQwggykw#Joists_around_chimney"

What (if any) would be the best way to achieve this? What alternatives are there to support the joist closest to the wall that is broken by the chimney?

Thanks.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16290 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16290 Fri, 18 Oct 2019 10:01:59 +0100 lineweight
For example, if you look at the British Gypsum 'white book' it has many variants of buildups for steel frame and masonry, and does give some systems for timber framed partitions but if you are looking at a load bearing, timber framed external wall, there is nothing at all. If you speak to their technical advice, they point you towards TRADA.

The TRADA timber frame book talks about 30 mins or 60 mins resistance being "normally obtained" by 1 or 2 layers of plasterboard but is not more specific than that.

You can find various info sheets that say something similar, but there's generally always a caveat that the actual fire resistance depends on the whole system - what it's fixed to and how. And they'll say that the performance of boards can vary by product - therefore, check with the manufacturer.

The problem is though, checking with the manufacturer reveals that they never actually give a resistance for the board itself - it is determined by the "system", ie. specific buildup. And there may be no "system" that matches what you want.

In practice, what generally seems to happen is that building inspectors simply accept that principle of 1 layer = 30 mins, 2 layers = 60 mins. But it feels unsatisfactory to me.

Maybe this is the sort of thing that most people just don't worry about?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16265 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16265 Thu, 03 Oct 2019 14:25:40 +0100 vord
The issue I'm having is you can't just insulate a solid wall with plastic paint or cement render outside and high external ground levels. The regs assume it is quick and easy to bung a bit of insulation on, but for me there is digging trenches outside, knocking off render and replacing with lime, replacing all the doors and windows lost in the process. The assumed payback on energy saving is 30 years, and I'm running into thousands of years payback. Apart from the time and money I doubt that will be environmentally friendly. I would much rather throw £100k into a pot to help other people insulate their lofts ratherthan do inefficient work here, but there isn't the option.

Has anyone been through this? I'm getting a bit fed up. I tried being depressed for a while but that didn't work for me so I'm looking at making a plan. It seems obviously silly so am I missing something here? My plan at the moment is to find cheap insulation and throw it away again when the damp issues get a bit much.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16178 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16178 Thu, 18 Jul 2019 18:57:09 +0100 nigel
Its in an area where house prices are not particularly high but I would like to build a couple of houses to Passiv Haus standards but I am concerned that it will be uneconomic.

Does anyone have an idea of what a typical premium there would be to build to that standard over and above the building regs requirements.
I know building costs vary geographically and I would say build costs in this area are about average.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15081 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15081 Wed, 03 May 2017 12:55:56 +0100 Peter_in_Hungary
Question - can my friends move into the conversion now and wait for regs sign off in one years time when the new cess pit is done and can there be any come back if they do move in? (no mortgage or loans involved)]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16162 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16162 Tue, 25 Jun 2019 20:21:24 +0100 johnericsutton
In any case, I think it very unlikely that any radon which is drawn up the air intake poses any risk to health as it will be emitted from the building in due course (for a second time!) through the chimney.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16161 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16161 Tue, 25 Jun 2019 09:47:49 +0100 thebeacon
i have just purchased a Victorian terrace house, built 1890. It's in need of some renovation, for starters we will be taking the entire ground level floor boars up to insulate between the joists and then lay a new tongue and groove wood floor. We will also lay a new floor upstairs.

We would also like to re-plaster the walls, this would include taking the plaster off the walls (it was plastered in the early 2000s with a non-breathable plaster) and applying a breathable lime plaster. We want to use Breathaplasta, a newish lime based plaster: https://www.celticsustainables.co.uk/adaptavate-breathaplasta/

We are planning to take the floors up and lay the insulation ourselves, and then have a flooring company lay the boards. And with the plaster we will take the plaster back to the walls and then have a contractor in to plaster.

My question is with regards to Building control, i have read that if you are taking up more than 25% of a floor or more than 25% of plaster off a wall, it must then be inline with building regulations. By insulating the floor we will achieve better than the thermal target, but my concern is with the plastering of the walls on to bare brick. We really don't want to build a stud wall.

Having never done this before, what is the best route to getting approval/ when should i contact building control, before i start? Would an independent inspector be able to approve the works? It would be good to have it approved/ certificated in case we want to sell the house in the future.


Any advice would be much appreciated.


Thanks,]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16113 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16113 Sat, 04 May 2019 17:02:51 +0100 djh
Does anybody know whether there is a limit to the length of time they have to spend the money?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16085 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16085 Wed, 03 Apr 2019 22:50:00 +0100 Victorianeco
This socket will then have a 13 AMP plug and RCD for a shower / sauna the other side of the stud wall.

Space is limited so I intended on putting the back box foamed or use no more nails to stick the back box on to the inside of the plasterboard. Is this okay to do so?

Cannot screw as the screw would only go into the 12.5mm PB before it hit the tiles on the other side.

The other option is to cut the plug off and fit a fused spur but this will invalidate the shower warranty.

Thoughts welcome]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15844 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15844 Wed, 22 Aug 2018 14:09:38 +0100 Doubting_Thomas
Initial plan was a slot/channel drain with localised ‘shoes’ connecting into it at each downpipe. Visually though, the preference would be a simple French drain, geotextile lining with a perforated pipe coil below gravel. The weakness I see with the latter approach is ‘reverse drainage’ whereby we end up with the rainwater off our roof saturating our foundations before it percolates down into the pipe...

What I’m wondering now is if there’s anything out there that could do both. Some form of channel with grating that’s then buried under gravel, so water can either trickle down off the facade or be directed down off the roof.

Anyone got any ideas/product links or am I over thinking this?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15744 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15744 Thu, 24 May 2018 20:46:36 +0100 jemhayward
Are there any rights of appeal, or ways around this or are we just completely stuffed!

If we proceed without getting building regs done, what would happen to us?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15641 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15641 Fri, 23 Mar 2018 19:02:01 +0000 Doubting_Thomas
We've got a mezzanine overlooking the main living space in our self-build that will need some form of edge protection. I've got some ideas of what I want to put there but no idea whether it will meet an appropriate line load etc. or how to size up the posts accordingly.

Is this just something to chat through with BCO, or do people generally get structural engineers involved?

Anyone got any good literature/guidance?

(I'm aware of the 100mm sphere rule and not planning anything outlandish - just some vertical timber slats...)]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15514 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15514 Sat, 20 Jan 2018 15:48:50 +0000 tony
Sounds good doesn’t it, but what does it mean? Nothing! Targets need to SMART

I am going to suggest that they adopt Passive House, even though this is not my favourite robust low energy standard it is being used more and more widely. So if we said a date by which it should be in place then that would be it.

Anyone wanna suggest a realistic date for that please]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15336 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15336 Tue, 10 Oct 2017 19:23:41 +0100 cjard
The downstairs owner recently sold and the new owner has approached with a complaint about the level of noise my current tenant generates. The tenant apparently doesn't do anything abnormal, just walks around, watches TV and talks, but the downstairs neighbour feels the sound attenuation between the flats is inadequate

They've suggested I replace the laminate flooring in my flat with carpet, and have offered to contribute towards the cost..

I'm split between saying "sorry pal; caveat emptor- sue your surveyor or sell up, because I don't think it's reasonable to subject my tenant to to upheaval and inconvenience of replacing my floor coverings with a less durable alternative just because you've realised that a ground floor room occupant hears footsteps of an upstairs occupant" and looking for a solution on the interest of keeping a good neighbour (a bad neighbour of course having an impact on my ability to keep a good tenant if a grievance develops and they take it out on my tenant - prior experience)

Any suggestions to solutions that are low disruption, that he can fund? I'd far rather he install a layer on his ceiling than rip up my flooring, even though I acknowledge laminate is noisy, it's better suited to a rental property..]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15235 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15235 Wed, 16 Aug 2017 14:20:11 +0100 Doubting_Thomas
I'm intending to avoid soil stacks going through the roof and want to do the lot with stub stacks and AAV's where required - this should be possible since we have a bungalow arrangement.

Looking at the levels, there'll be several items (bath and MVHR condensate drain) which will need to enter the main stack at a lower level than the main WC pipe (float?). I understand that certain manufacturers offer a collar boss arrangement that is designed to allow this without needing the standard 200mm separation to avoid backflow.

This is appealing, since we only have 50mm screed, then RC slab on insulation so I'm keen to keep as much of the horizontal runs above the FFL as possible. However I realise there may be horror stories with this so please share any ideas.

Likewise, draining the island unit dishwasher and sink is a challenge. What I've ultimately come up with is a separate run below slab, meeting in the nearest inspection chamber so everything can be rodded.

In terms of sizing, I've assumed 40mm pipe to everything but the WC's. 110mm stacks and whatever we need below ground. This is mainly to keep things 'simple' rather than mixing 32 and 40mm pipe but again if this is overkill it would be good to know.

Any opinions on solvent vs. push-fit?

Thanks in advance.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15293 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15293 Fri, 15 Sep 2017 12:33:57 +0100 djh
All it seems to require is a duct through a wall with a cover over each end. It doesn't require any cabling in the house, or any cabling or ductwork leading to the house, or any connection through the duct.

Now my house has a duct that leads straight from an Openreach chamber alongside the road to my master terminal socket inside the house. It presently has one of their cables in it and they can pull fibre through it if we and they ever want to. And of course I have some network cables in the house. But it still wouldn't meet Part R!

I can see the point of requiring blocks of flats to be cabled up but why require all new houses to have an extra thermal bridge that isn't necessary?

Oh, and section 1.5 about application will likely cause grief somewhere along the line, since they've misquoted what the exemption classes mean. 'Small buildings' does not mean all garages and conservatories!

I wonder who wrote this and who checked it? And which two pieces of legislation were repealed to allow it to be added?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15254 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15254 Thu, 24 Aug 2017 14:00:11 +0100 lesp Regards
Les]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15250 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15250 Wed, 23 Aug 2017 22:09:31 +0100 discotroll
I hope I've chosen the right section for this question.

We've actually managed to get planning permission for our upcycled self-build home and are in the process of getting a number of conditions approved before we start works on site. These relate to things such as sound attenuation for the final build, tree protection, archaeological survey for the foundation dig-out - nothing too problematic.

As the main structure is to be of steel and delivered to site by truck, could this be placed on the site (NOT where it is going to eventually be sited - just sat there, on the ground) before we've got conditions signed-off, building control happy with the plans, etc?

As mentioned, there'll be no actual construction works undertaken until conditions are approved but this would enable us to do prep-work to the steel and not lose months waiting for conditions sign off, test pits dug for foundations, etc, before we get the main frame delivered.

Bit of an odd one - but then again it's a bit of an odd development...

Thanks in advance for thoughts,

DT.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15160 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15160 Thu, 29 Jun 2017 19:21:29 +0100 debbiel I've now changed insulation from kingspan to woodfibre batts and boards which are able to be plastered with lime plaster, eliminating the need for plasterboard.
I'm wondering what the fire rating of this would be compared with standard plasterboard, and if it would be a problem for building control.
Has anyone else had experience with this?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14937 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14937 Fri, 24 Feb 2017 17:40:13 +0000 goodevans
1) The version on the government website/planning portal including 2016 amendments.
or
2) The 2013 version because the planned 2016 amendments were withdrawn in last years budget.
or
3) The 'new' regs aren't really enforced - so you can still build a 100+100+100mm filled cavity wall and tell the BCO company and the SAP company to use the 'old' regs.

What happens in your area - looking at current new builds in my area I fear option 3 is in operation.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14879 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14879 Tue, 31 Jan 2017 20:02:33 +0000 tony
A good review of the review here http://www.sustainablehomes.co.uk/the-bonfield-review-better-late-than-never/?utm_campaign=SHIFT+Awards+2016&utm_source=hs_email&utm_medium=email&utm_content=41667821&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-82Alw0vgLi9Jvnu9oT8xUVqbnXIkqGCmIkRJhEFHp2vy_afgp4CCGUKVwg0P-Yy9ZzfIZodYUYARYozvPJPhjZ-Rqi7w&_hsmi=41667821

The review is making good points and I hope that result in changes like enforcement, monitoring and better buildings.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14821 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14821 Mon, 09 Jan 2017 20:07:21 +0000 joe90
With regard the glulam ridge beam ( which I cannot see the need for) I have had this discussion before, with a pitched roof the ridge beam simply ties the two sets of rafters together and carries no weight as such. If ( like a loft conversion) one pitch was removed then yes a beam, steel or glulam is needed to carry the weight of the slope retained but with equal and opposite slopes surely this is not required.

Surely 300mm I joists over a 5 mtr span at an angle of 35 degrees is not rocket science to calculate ( I
wish I had become a SE or at least learnt the theory before I started this project). We are also getting into the realms of paying for an S.E. to make these calculations which obviously I would like to avoid.

So, am I barking up the wrong tree?, am I trying to be too simplistic?, I cannot for the life of me see the requirement for steels.

HELP]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14727 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14727 Sun, 27 Nov 2016 18:00:01 +0000 ringi
“When the basic results from SAP are fed into the Buildings Regulations compliance methodology which follows, the benefits of Form Factor do not register. The current Building Regulations in the UK are therefore unable to provide an incentive for industry to design and build homes that have a more efficient type and shape.”

See https://www.nhbcfoundation.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/NF-72-NHBC-Foundation_Shape-and-Form.pdf]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14646 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14646 Mon, 24 Oct 2016 22:18:35 +0100 discotroll
I'm just working on the build-up of the proposed insulation and internal structure of a conversion project but I don't seem to be able to find anywhere a clear and definitive guide on what u-values I need to be hitting re floor, walls and roof. :sad:

I've read that as a conversion I need to adhere to Doc L1b (something around 0.18w/m2k for the flat roof, etc) then I see that if it's a new roof I need to adhere to new-build targets. I've seen info saying that the u-value can end up worse than a specified target figure and I've read other stuff saying that the overall property needs to come in at a crazy 0.13w/m2k.. :shocked:

I've got my calculator for working out the build-up and thickness of insulation and other materials, but I could do with just knowing that the u-value figure I'm aiming for is 'X' and that is what I must hit to get building regs approval.

If anyone could shed any light on this and how I can move forwards that would be great.

Thanks,

DT.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3595 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3595 Tue, 17 Feb 2009 08:43:00 +0000 dailampard
It would appear (though I might be mistaken) that every picture of a pitched green roof I see on the net has no provision for roof ventilation ? Maybe there are provisions for eaves to eaves ventilation but ridge ventilation does not appear to have been addressed in any of the steeper pitched roofs.

As a building contractor I am well aware of the problems of unvented roofs and have dealt with horrendous problems caused by such practices. The situation worsens in high vaulted/ cathedral ceilings with no loft space and the where requirement to vent each individual rafter space is essential. Maybe I'm wrong but surely ridge ventilation has to be a requirement in such pitched roofs?

I know how I would go about providing ridge ventilation and tying in a roofing membrane but what I am really interested in finding out is why there is absolutely nothing on these sites about ventilation. Are these roofs being built without adequate provision and has it actually mattered in the end ?

As a matter of interest , I recently spoke to the technical department of one major UK supplier of green roofing materials regarding ventilation and they didn't know / had never been asked and had no drawings or info. Am I missing something here or is this a subject that has just never been addressed ?

Any comments or experiences welcome]]>