Tue, 19 Dec 2023 06:52:14 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17218 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17218 Thu, 30 Sep 2021 17:03:39 +0100 Nick Parsons http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17220 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17220 Sat, 02 Oct 2021 09:12:33 +0100 kristeva
I'm due to insulate a couple of small external walls (IWI) upstairs and managed to purchase some Steico wood fibre board from a lovely chap in Oxford. He had it left over from the renovation of his old house.

I'm going to apply on existing plaster which is mostly flat but would you advise using any adhesive / plaster on the substrate to eliminate any potential gaps? There's no mention of this on the instructions I downloaded.

Cheers]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17221 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17221 Sat, 02 Oct 2021 20:40:01 +0100 ChrisinYorkshire
Wall envelope as follows, layer by layer:

- retaining (damp) stone wall
- oldroyd cavity membrane
- metal studwork
- 25mm PIR
- 25mm timber battens, with 25mm PIR in-between

No space for wall to be any thicker due to location of external doorway

I realise it would have been cheaper and easier to put in a dpm across the whole wall, but something about puncturing a flappy dpm (which will surely happen not least by the plasterboard screws) along with the dpm not being bonded to the PIR throughout (like the foil layer is) put me off... Is this illogical thinking?

Perhaps I should have used less insulation and put in a dpm followed by osb for protection then the plasterboard...

What would others have done?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17212 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17212 Wed, 29 Sep 2021 12:48:58 +0100 tony
I think that the overall quality of our housing stock has improved over the last 100 years but the quality is still too low especially in terms of sustainability, durability, longevity, energy demand etc. Delivering retrofit at scale simply isn’t possible, insufficient infrastructure, operatives and managers. Even if every vaguely suitable unemployed person was retrained, grants were thrown at the problem we still would need 50 or 75 years to get it done. 😢

Do we need a new approach? I don’t have an answer and there may well not be one!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17121 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17121 Mon, 12 Jul 2021 11:52:34 +0100 Davycrocket
Hopefully someone has done this before and can guide me along.

I am looking to refurbish an 1800s sandstone rubble filled gable end interior wall which has been chipped back to the sandstone.

For warmth we are thinking of adding a wood fibreboard.

I'm also wanting to use timber to section the wall into manageable "bays" as its quite a large area to do in one go.

What method do I follow,

do I need to dub the wall out then stick the wood fibre on to the bare stone to give me a relatively flat surface and then create the "bays" ?

Or, Do I slurry the wall first, then use the adhesive to fix the boards ?

Hope that makes sense.

Thanks in advance]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17199 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17199 Thu, 16 Sep 2021 15:20:00 +0100 Tomasz_P
I have largely finished the internal insulation of my coach house renovation with 60mm woodfibre followed by warmcote and a topcoat.

One area remains. It has a brick wall at the bottom and then it is timber frame with feather edge cladding. I previously had t&g internal cladding and plasterboard in some areas. I will not be removing the external cladding for the time being. When the time comes to do this i will use a membrane underneath and possibly some external insulation if the building features allow.

For now my plan is to use a membrane over the studs and try and do my best to seal this. Then i will insulate in between the studs and finish with OSB then plasterboard/wood wool then plaster/lime plaster. The alternative would be to use the membrane after fitting the insulation but my hope is that doing it the other way would offer a little extra protection to the insulation from insects.

I could do another thin layer of insulation over the osb but funds are now running very low and i think without it it will probably have similar performance to the rest of the masonry/woodfibre walls, albeit without the thermal mass.

I can fit 140mm batts between the timbers. I now need to decide between woodfibre (most expensive), thermafleece (still expensive) or mineral wool (half the price of the others). I think they probably all have similar performance so i guess this will come down to my preference on environmental impact.

For the masonry wall i may stud this out in some of the challenging areas and use cork or woodfibre elsewhere.

Does anyone have any advice or thoughts? Thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17195 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17195 Tue, 14 Sep 2021 15:23:17 +0100 Nick Parsons http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14794 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14794 Sun, 01 Jan 2017 19:25:57 +0000 MonsterMonster
I need to repoint and repaint the whole house as we had cavity walltie failure last year (1900 cavity with iron fishtail ties) and the brick stitching repair has left the 1900 part looking like a peppar pot. It also became apparent that a previous owner repointed sections using cement mortar and also what looks like polyfiller!

Whilst looking into lime repointing I've leant that these masonry paints are latex based and tend not to let the house breathe causing damp problems which we are seeing. I'd like to remove all of this paint, repoint and then repaint with a breathable product. Can anybody suggest a decent method of removing masonry paint other than manual scraping which will take months? I've looked at chemical strippers, heat guns, sandblast, dustless etc. but I want to hear of proven successful methods that others have used.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16995 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16995 Sat, 27 Mar 2021 21:27:45 +0000 Tomasz_P I could have carried on my other IWI thread but I think it is more helpful to start a new one. As a reminder I am renovating a 17/18C red brick coach house.
I think I am going to go with cork for my IWI. Probably 40-80mm. I am getting different recommendations from different suppliers/fitters.
I have one long wall upstairs where the bare masonry is painted. Not too thick but it won't be in a breathable paint. The wall probably makes up about 30pc of the total outside walls for the second floor. The plasterer said it would be best if I removed this before fitting the cork (which has to be fully bonded to the walls). What is everyone's opinion on this? Is emulsion paint really that impervious? I have just had a quote for £850 blast a few beams. Don't fancy another 850 or more to do this wall. Downstairs I will be doing it in one painted wall but the walls down there are much more damp.

It actually has me questioning the whole idea of breathable iwi and lime plaster because currently the outside of the house is painted in a modern paint and it is going to be a long while before I embark on the job of stripping and re-finishing that.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17155 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17155 Fri, 13 Aug 2021 15:04:14 +0100 alm
After many of your helpful comments a couple of months back, we are finally in our new (old) house and decided to start at the top ... There is an attic bedroom up there but we were warned by the previous owner that there is no insulation in the roof. I want to pull the ceiling down and vault it up to the inside of the ridge, so perfect opportunity to get a load of insulation in there. I would also like to put a roof light in, we are surrounded by lovely but massive beech trees which makes the room quite dark. And whilst we are at in, start with some internal wall insulation, so just after a bit of advice;

1. I was planning on using rigid insulation in the roof (with void above) as I know this doesn't have to be breathable, there is only a fairly small area of external wall in this room, I was thinking with a small area we should be okay just sticking the PIR boards (or whatever we use) on the wall as well - any thoughts on this? (Planning on using IWI probably cork/ wood fibre combined with aerogel around bay windows for the rest of the house)

2. Any recommendations for ethically sourced roof lights with good U-Values and thermal performance?

3. In terms of phasing, if we insulated the walls in this room, and later on (hopefully months not years) we do the bedroom below, and ideas / experience on the best way. Do we take it down under the floor to the top of the ceiling? (I'm going to try to attach a drawing)

I'm sure many more questions will come up once we start, but I think that should do for now!

Thanks,
Anna]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17156 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17156 Sat, 14 Aug 2021 14:27:05 +0100 Justin I'm thinking about a "cork on cork" flooring fix.

Situation is 1970's house, mostly IWI throughout (plus cavity fill).
Ground floors solid. Most of the area will remain as-is due to existing hard floors, but we have a "snug" of 16M^2 with P/A ratio 0.7 (three external walls all IWI). This abuts an area of the remainder of the ground floor which has 20-25 mm thick reclaimed pitch pine parquet throughout.
We have removed a 25 year old revolting carpet (not a fan of carpets at all, that was the only bit in the house). Thinking about solutions. I have up to 25mm to play with once I remove ex Marley tile. I could cope with a small slope up, so maybe up to 30mm would be acceptable. Its dry.

No UFH or plans for, (don't like it anyway and silly idea on solid floor).

I was considering more of the quite easy to get 25 mm reclaimed pine parquet over a high-tech backing. Looking at Thermablock (10mm aerogel on 3mm stiffener), but the handling, the dust, not to mention the cost of that aerogel material is off putting.

U value of the floor (concrete) with P/A 0.7 is about 0.77 by BRE method. Parquet will scarcely touch that, but adding many £ worth of 10mm aerogel plus the parquet gets me about 0.35.

Then I thought about thick cork.. 25mm of cork plus 4mm WPS ply would be approaching the performance of 10mm aerogel+25mm hardwood parquet.
It looks like I could get from U 0.77 down to about 0.4. There might or might not be further rugs.

I'm looking at budget EWI grade 20mm cork board (economical, maybe £10 per M^2, perhaps less), with 4mm WPS ply on top and another layer of flooring grade cork tile (say 5mm) on top. There may need to be a fair bit of glue :(
Two considerations I guess. Ongoing compressibility of the EWI grade cork under the 4mm ply (I feel unlikely a problem in a light loaded domestic, but opinions welcome). Secondly VCL The sealant to the top cork may be adequate, but that seems doubtful to me, I don't want to encourage mould on the concrete sub floor or within the cork at the underside of the lower layer.

I could of course go isocyanurate or phenolic board but without a fireproof skin (plasterboard) as on the IWI, this makes me a little more uneasy, and I'd be less confident about it's compression characteristics under only a thin plywood layer.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12555 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12555 Sun, 14 Sep 2014 23:00:12 +0100 Ricochet
the room is to be brought into use as a living/ bed room.

materials/products/suppliers/method/costs................all info welcome.

jc]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17123 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17123 Tue, 13 Jul 2021 14:16:14 +0100 greenfinger
I'm making a start on removing the thick plaster, etc on the internal walls of the old part of my house. I can't be certain, but I think it would have been applied in the mid-1970s. It's really thick in places - up to 50mm/2 inches. I'm hoping to clean the stonework up afterwards and re-point (with lime) if needed. Prefer the natural look, and love the history of the place. Prefer a cold bedroom too before anyone mentions insulation ;)

While working the hammer and chisel, questions have been coming up in my head...

- I'm curious as to why the "scratch coat" (is that the right term?) would have been put on so thick?
- Can anyone tell whether it is basic sand and cement or something else?
- Might it have had some kind of damp proofing element?
- Are there any downsides to removing it (I appreciate something will need to be done where the ceiling meets the wall)?
- Any tips on how to clean up the front of the stonework easily? At the moment I'm just using a wire brush, but hoping for a less labour intensive and more effective solution!

Any comments most appreciated.

Cheers]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17113 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17113 Sat, 03 Jul 2021 14:06:28 +0100 nbishara
I've thought about the above for too many years and I'm now just wanting to abandon my perfectionism in favour of pragmatism and a warmer house.

Does anyone have a recommendations for EWI installers because we were underwhelmed by most of their websites (more emphasis on colour than U value and no eaves detailing etc)? As implied, I think I'd be better off with reasonably installed standard EWI with cold bridging, than any amount of hypothetical woodfibre, fly past detailing, windows in the EWI that I probably couldn't afford and won't get round to doing (great though it might be). Basically I want to get someone to just do a reasonable job at a reasonable price. Its a small semi detached and would require front and side and I'm pretty sure that I was last quoted 30k which seems mad.

I have gone back to considering IWI, despite it's evident drawbacks. I wasn't going to consider it because my house is small, but then my partner knows someone who's used aerogel and the price has apparently come down. He did it himself, but any thoughts or experiences of self install of aerogel or installers would again be really appreciated.

Thanks for any help anyone can offer; I'm driving myself crazy with my own procrastination (& my partner;-)

Tania]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16896 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16896 Tue, 19 Jan 2021 12:17:34 +0000 Davycrocket
Not sure if they are recess's or alcoves, but they are the internal recess for windows in circa 1850 rubble filled walls.

I'm getting black mold on the plaster board which is a result of these areas being only 1 stone thick ? and not benefiting from the thermal mass effect that the rest of the building enjoys. (Walls are approx 24 inch away from windows, approx 8 inch under window sill)

So, my question is, what is the best way to insulate these ?

Any ideas very welcome.

TIA]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17107 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17107 Wed, 30 Jun 2021 12:19:03 +0100 AMG Timber suspended floor has no insulation btw.

The sea wall will be one defence.
The garden appears to be higher than neighbours and also slops downwards towards the shore.
Would you consider waterproofing walls? Filling or closing the void? Take out timber floor and replace with concrete block beam slab? Any other ideas or would you sell up and not have the worry?
Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17110 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17110 Thu, 01 Jul 2021 21:13:13 +0100 steveray I have a void where I plan to install the manifold(s) which is fairly central to all the water outlets and the cylinder
I am planning to install a large gledhill 250L pressurised cylinder as there will be 4 showers in the house.
I sell to plumbers merchants so I will be able to get the stuff at the right price.
Can anyone suggest where I could get a detailed plumbing layout drawing done with all the physics etc taken care of! For instance am I right in thinking since it is pressurised that all the pipe runs going from the manifold can all be 16mm multilayer pipe rather than 22mm and 15mm copper as it used to be.
Also thinking of using the press fitting which seem to becoming very popular in the trade.
Is it significant if the Cylinder is installed on the at floor level on above in the roofspace which would save valuable space downstairs.

Appreciate any comments or suggestions.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17090 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17090 Fri, 11 Jun 2021 20:08:19 +0100 alm
We are hoping to move into a 1910 Edwardian Semi in the next couple of weeks and have ambitions to get the house as thermal efficient as realistically possibly, with the potential for some sort of heat pump or alternative further (Probably much further) down the line.

The house has solid brick walls side and back and a cavity wall to the front elevations (although as far as I can tell this is a ‘finger cavity’ and should be treated as a solid wall). It has been re-plastered in the last 15 years (I assume with gypsum) but a lot of original features (skirting, picture rails, coving, wall mouldings) have been retained / reinstated. Windows are all original with single glazing, all needing some sort of attention, some more than others, but this will be a priority. The top floor has been converted in the 90’s but we have been warned that there is no insulation up there (another priority, as yes it somehow got signed off by BC). The ground floor is suspended timber floor with a crawl space under half and cellar under the other half.

I know it’s best to live in the house for a while before starting, and we probably will end up doing that to some extent, but as everything ties into each other, and some things are more urgent, at this point I was after a bit of advice on what level to take the retrofit to...

In an ideal world (where time and money weren’t an issue), we would be looking to;
1. Insulate the roof and walls in the attic rooms
2. Restore / replace the windows (timber 2g / 3g if possible and sort any thermal bridging and drafts)
3. Take up and insulate under the suspended timber floor
4. IWI - Wood fibre or cork with lime plaster

However the reality is while one of us is pretty DIY savvy and up for a challenge, the other one is less so, we have a 2 year old, and one of us will be spending the next 2 years retraining. Making both time and money a pretty big issue. All being well, we plan to stay in the house for the foreseeable, so don’t need to rush anything but it would be nice to get started.

Ultimately I think the big decision is the IWI, at the moment this seems like the overwhelming job as there is a lot of detailing, plumbing and electrics on the external walls. It also affects a lot of the other elements. External Wall insulation is not an option aesthetically.

So apologies for the long post, I guess my main questions, for those who have complete similar projects, what is realistically achievable given our situation? And any bits of advice on phasing;
1. Do we accept compromises and do everything except for IWI. (But risk going back over jobs to fit it further down the line)
2. Do we aim to do the whole lot but accept it will take time (in which case is there a risk of condensation / damp issues between rooms that have and haven’t been finished. And how best to detail the junctions.
3. How important is it that we have made the decision on IWI when doing more urgent tasks, for example the windows and how the reveals are treated.

I know that ultimately the decision is down to us, I just wanted some advice and feedback from like minded experience who have been through it. Most people I have discussed it with have said its too much work and not to bother as its not worth it - but this will absolutely be a passion project for us!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17084 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17084 Mon, 07 Jun 2021 11:11:54 +0100 AMG
We want to remove the room in a box and bring in all the useable space into the thermal envelope.
The roof from what I can see is rafters with sarking boards and then some form of bitamin/thick felt followed by cross battens and then tiles.

1. What insulation material would you advice to minimise heat loss but also avoid a large build up as ceiling height is tight?
2. Can you insulate to full depth of rafter (all the way to the sarking board) or do you need to leave any gaps?
3. Presumably will need a VCL to stop moisture condensing on the sarking board?
3. Is it worth stripping roof and then insulating on top of sarking board? Not sure if I can get away without needing planning due to increase in height?? Various veluxes will also have to be refitted.

How would you tackle the above and what insulation material would you suggest? BTW we are in coastal Scotland and exposed to the wind.

Much appreciated and many thanks for your advice/suggestions.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17051 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17051 Thu, 06 May 2021 20:30:04 +0100 wholaa __________________]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17044 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17044 Fri, 30 Apr 2021 19:24:20 +0100 tonya add insulation between rafters 500 mm with gap between it and the roof. Currnetly the roof does not condensate but slightly worried if I add foli backed insulation it may. Any thoughts very welcome.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16665 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16665 Wed, 22 Jul 2020 00:51:15 +0100 Yanntoe We,ve stripped off the cement and repointed it all with NHL lime, we've used limecrete on the floors and replastered/repaired using lime. We've used clay paints and it looks great.

But, the water just comes through the reveals and the weather facing walls.

Stripped back one of the window "Pallistrades" on the outside yesterday and the water is clearly running down the inside of the walls rather than coming in round the window - you can see the water mark on the internal wooden lintel which is above the opening in the stone work. Tested the "inside" /middle of the wall and the outside with moisture meter and it's all "OL" i.e. WET.

Of course I understand that the wall gets wet and then dries out in the sun 'cos it's breathable, but if its saturated in July there is absolutely no chance that it'll be dry over the winter.

Having taken advice I replaced all the pointing (again) on the weather facing wall, replacing NHL 3.5 with NHL 5, as we do live in a very wet area. Delayed the incoming water until february but it's been marking the walls ever since.

So, short of rendering the West facing wall that gets most of the rain and wind, and the Northern wall which shares some of the weather but not the sun, can anyone advise on how to proceed?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16965 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16965 Thu, 11 Mar 2021 16:17:54 +0000 kristeva
I'm at the stage in my project where I've had to start renovating upstairs and just looking for some opinion on a few matters if I may. Two of my rooms (bedroom & bathroom) protrude into the lower rafters of the roof - see photo. The only barrier between the room and this section of the roof is lath & plaster, and access to the void behind from the loft seems to blocked by a purlin so I'm unable to insulate from above. These sections will obviously be a cold spot so I'm thinking about either over-boarding or just knocking it out and starting again.

I wonder if over-boarding will facilitate too much weight on the structure, and what material I should use - do I need to go with wood fibre here or would Cellotex backed plasterboard suffice for a bedroom & bathroom?

Cheers]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17005 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17005 Mon, 05 Apr 2021 08:41:59 +0100 Gareth J
I’ve been trawling through threads here for a while now but now have something specific that would be great to get some advise on. Apologies if it’s been covered before.

I’m currently modifying/somewhat restoring a mostly 1800s stone and earth walled cottage here in North Cornwall. On the cards is something to replace the failing ~1” of Tyrolean render applied sometime probably about 50 years ago. It’s done a decent job overall and protected the house from driven rain pretty well. Generally where I’ve removed it, as part of modifying the lean-to that’s on one side, it’s really dry underneath, as is the earth between the stones in places I’ve had to dismantle.

However, in places the render is failing and letting water track behind and even, on really bad driven rain days, (which we get here for extended periods) we have some leakage in the lean -to. Digging some of the south gable end (which has been rebuilt with blockwork at some point) plaster off shortly after such a rain session and it’s saturated, the blocks underneath are saturated and as it dries out the joints in the blocks are ghosted on the outside – implying to me that there is moisture within those blocks/mortar joints too. Seems to me like the mortar here (at least) is pretty porus. There is also some damp indoors at low level, this corresponds to underground bits - Parts of the house are built into the ground which doesn't help and those which are, “foundations” on the outer skin of stonework are only at the level of the subsoil, rather than the full depth of the interior rooms. As was the tradition.

I have been considering digging off the failing mortar, and redoing with lime but am not actually convinced this is a good idea.

I’ve been reading the “loosing faith in lime” thread with great interest as I think that I had come to similar conclusions (thought not as well thought through or articulated) before reading, regarding permeable wall coverings. Eventually I want to put something on the outside that is impermeable to driven rain, flexible enough to cope with a sagging old building and, ideally, though not essentially able to let moisture out – I could aim to control wall moisture entirely from within...

That leaves me to consider other options including EWI, a cladding system, or patching the worst bits for now and planning “something else” in future.

I love the ideal of EWI but I have reservations – mainly, I dont like the idea of adhering a product, with some "adhesive" of unknown lifespan to the outside of the building, the building is far from straight or square and I dislike how much I know it will cost. Of course the advantages will be obvious.

I also can’t afford roof alterations, so any covering needs to either taper in at the gable ends, which would be ok, or be very thin. The soffits can take up ~100mm.

I have been looking at Tyvek’s “drainscreen”
https://www.dupont.com/products/tyvek-drainvent-rainscreen.html
Or similar competitor products, which look like they might be able to achieve what I would like, mold to the shape of the house, and with expamet and render, provide a good, flexible outer skin without taking up much depth. Areas that could afford the space could even be battened and insulated - if that were allowed regs/fire wise.

Has anyone experience with these type of products? Are they actually appropriate? Can’t see much with respect to UK suppliers.

Thanks in advance and apologies for the long first post!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17026 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17026 Thu, 15 Apr 2021 19:42:47 +0100 kristeva
I'm now at the point with my upstairs renovation where i need to skim my lime walls so my electrician can return to energise the upper circuit.

Whilst I've already lime plastered the bare brick wall under the stairs using Lime Green products (emergency due to electric meter relocation) I've decided to bring in a young plasterer to help me with the upstairs skim. He's new to Lime but keen to help so I'm hoping I can pick up some skills from him in the process too. I've almost finished the prep work and we are currently at the planning stage and would appreciate any advice.

All walls have the original polished lime plaster but there was a bit of 'fall out' when removing the skirting board from the lath & plaster stud walls so I've had to replace small parts with plasterboard and the odd screw/washer to tighten the existing plaster back to lath. I've scrim taped all the joints and the joints between the plasterboard and existing lime plaster which I will prep/fill using a slightly thinner multi finish (gypsum).

But my main question is what type of lime to use and whether I should 'prep' the walls first with a thin mix of Lime putty and water (limewater) or just wet the walls to control suction?

But what concoction for the skim?

1. A ready made product like St Astier Ecomortar R100, which is the expensive option?

2. A ready mixed lime putty, just need to knock up?

3. Or should I make up my own using NHL 2 and fine sand, and if so what mix?

Apologies for all the questions, any experience from fellow forum members much appreciated.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13304 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13304 Wed, 22 Apr 2015 13:09:48 +0100 laikipia About to start work on the bathroom or rather a 4mx3m room that will have a shower cubicle in the corner, a sink and a WC.

Two of the walls are external and need replastering. Underneath is thick stone and rubble North Yorkshire 1700's building. One has a window, the other an unused fireplace that we want to reatin for aesthetics. The other two walls are a. standard plastered stone and the other b. tongue and groove floor to ceiling.

We are trying out Eden lime's lime/hemp/ perlite insulating plaster in one room and are tempted to use it in here for its breathability coupled with insulating properties - but only on the two external walls.
We thought to apply water resistant tongue and groove effect MDF to about 1.1m on all walls with tiles on the shower cubicles back (one of the inside walls). No problem on the two inside walls but on the two outside walls should we just forget the insulating plaster below 1.1m and use a bit of standard insulation between the batons that hold the MDF on or put stick to the insulating plaster and put the MDF on top?

Always twitchy about damp/breathability/interstitial condensation.

The shower will be a Mira 10.8 Sport max and the builder plans to put in an extractor fan in the ceiling.

Any help welcome!

All the best

John]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16988 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16988 Mon, 22 Mar 2021 03:13:39 +0000 superfurry http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16980 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16980 Wed, 17 Mar 2021 23:00:29 +0000 Tomasz_P One of my concerns is that everything is going to end up looking too straight and new! What final finish can people recommend that will be most sympathetic? Also what is the recommendation for reveals or corners where i would prefer to have a rounded corner?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16976 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16976 Tue, 16 Mar 2021 22:33:48 +0000 Tomasz_P I have had quotes for 142sqm limecrete floor on expanded glass (ty-mawr). I have not yet decided whether to lay the glass myself or not. I asked for quotes for 0.18W/m2 K and 0.22 which is minimum for building regs. The house is very old and and currently has poor thermal properties. The difference between the two is about £2000 (a little over 10pc) plus extra labour cost digging. The floor will have underfloor heating run by an ashp (the rest of the house on oil for now). Do you think it is worth spending the extra for 0.04W/m2?!

By the way, I will start a thread for this renovation once I have a bit more spare time!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16972 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16972 Mon, 15 Mar 2021 09:09:09 +0000 kristeva
I've been toying with the idea of restoring the original floorboards in my bathroom. The builder who installed my new joists says its fine as long as your careful. The boards are pine.

A good strong varnish would be the obvious choice of finish but in terms of maintenance its more problematic. It will most likely only be me living here so it won't get huge traffic / wear. But is wax / oil totally out of the question in this instance?

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16963 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16963 Tue, 09 Mar 2021 09:27:27 +0000 benawhile Preface:
We are having a large extension front and back to a small brick built cavity wall 1956 detached house. Architect plans and planning permission, build control involved. Basingstoke, Hants. Had a lot of trouble with builders. First builder gave up and left less than half finished, owing money, court case in progress. New builder who we had seen work quickly on neighbour's house hired, steamed along for a few weeks, we moved out and he's got to plasterboard stage. Whole house done, old ext walls, new ext walls, int solid walls and new studs. Builder said everything had to be done as plaster beginning to blow. Everything done except existing kitchen which has been stripped but has to wait until we have a kitchen plan.

Now, too late, I have just read your warnings about dot and dab, tony's advice about drafts from plug sckets etc.

I have a nasty feeling the dot and dab man didn't seal round the boards properly if it all.

I thought of buying some foam and going round sealing wall/floor join before skirting board done as the new section is on a beam and block floor. Is there anything else I can do at this stage? The new walls have been cavity insulated, standard 3" cavity and 3" insulation. The old ones could be insulated in the future but we have run out of money right now.

The builder is better than the last one and hard working and effective, but still not cheap and not the easiest to deal with and any more delay will drive us crazy, living with in-law at present. In other words I don't think I can bring myself to challenge builder to do the plastering over again, even if I am entitled to if he is in breach of regs.

But the main reason for posting is to ask if there's anything I can do now to remedy if even just slightly?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16917 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16917 Tue, 02 Feb 2021 21:16:06 +0000 SimonD
I've got a whole load of woodfibre EWI that's been sitting in my house waiting to be installed and rendered. Unfortunately I ran out of time last year before autumn and winter and I'm now planning the installation for spring.

Normally this stuff is rendered using a proprietary hydraulic lime system. However, I've been considering using non-hydraulic lime instead. In discussions elsewhere with the lime community, I've received some different opinions. Some say no way jose, and some say absolutely fine and would be great.

I don't want to discuss why I'm considering the non-hydaulic lime as I don't have any major compelling reasons other than that I would prefer the finish on my project. I'm doing it myself and although harder physical work, the non-hydraulic lime can be more forgiving of mistakes allowing time for re-work too. I also don't mind experimenting with things that are a bit different.

I'm leaning towards the fine side and at pains to think of reasons non-hydraulic lime couldn't be used on woodfibre.Those who've said not haven't been able to give me a well articulated reason why not. I'm aware that Pavatex supply/supplied a woodfibre IWI board that is fine with non-hydraulic lime plaster.

Do you have experience using non-hydraulic lime with woodfibre insulation? Any thoughts?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16839 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16839 Thu, 10 Dec 2020 21:33:41 +0000 dereke
So the proposed solutions are crawl around the loft (right in the eaves - cosy) and seal the top of the plasterboard. Not sure with what, squirty foam maybe.
The other option is to cut a strip around the top of the plasterboard and pack with plaster.

I'm not really that keen to get into these eaves. I'm also not super excited about cutting out all that plasterboard but with a good vac maybe it will be OK?

What do people think about this? The loft access is really tight as it is right in the corner and there is a room in that part of the loft as well. Also would need to remove all the insulation so I can see where to stand, or rather lay down.

If I cut the plasterboard what would be a good tool to use to do this? Dremel?

Are either of these potential solutions actually any good?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16960 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16960 Mon, 08 Mar 2021 12:46:00 +0000 Jenna
I'm working on a project to upgrade some park homes in the south west of England with some Green Homes Grant LADS funding. It'll mostly be wall, floor and roof insulation with some doors and possibly heating upgrades.

I wondered if anyone has worked on a similar project or could point me in the direction of anyone who has for some advice on potential pitfalls/learnings etc.

I found a post from 2009 recommending contacting NEA and Parasol Panels but wondered if there's anything more recent?

Thanks v much,

Jenna]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16944 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16944 Wed, 24 Feb 2021 17:29:06 +0000 kebl2825 Most of the ground floor has approx 600mm void below the joists, with front of house approx 250mm deep below joists (below a bay window area). 100mm deep joists (running parallel to front wall), sat on frequent sleeper walls running front to back. Sleeper walls have a dpm across top then plywood packers/shims under joists to level.

From what I have read so far my strategy is:
100mm mineral wool between joists (rigid PIR in the shallower area).
200mm total EPS board below joists (with less/none below in the shallower area). Possibly in 2 layers so I can stagger the joins, mechanically fixing the first layer through to joists.
Lime parge coat external walls (level off, and air-tightness), at least 100mm below joists.

At the perimeters the advice seems to be rigid boards foamed in, and the external perimeters are relatively more important than the middle of the floor. I'll make sure to not block any airbricks, and give them a path through to below the new insulation.
How far down the inside of external walls should perimeter insulation boards go - down to the ground below, or even dug out a bit so goes below ground, or just to roughly meet the depth of the underfloor insulation?
And, same question, but for the inner walls, sleeper walls, and party wall.

What type of expanding foam should I be considering?

And - forgive my ignorance - how is the 'foaming in' of a rigid board actually done? What are the dos and don'ts I should keep in mind?
I haven't (yet) been able to find a guide that doesn't gloss over this and the perimeters seem an important detail to get right.
Would I friction fit the board into place then just foam every exposed join/edge from my side?
I would expect it is important to not have significant air gaps left behind any vertical perimeter boards - so I think I wouldn't want the foam expanding itself behind them and forcing them away from the wall which surely could happen if I don't at least brace the boards till the expansion stops.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16939 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16939 Sat, 20 Feb 2021 11:54:46 +0000 kebl2825
We're getting some reclaimed parquet flooring soon which we will use in the hallway (about 12 sq.m) and wanting to put in underfloor heating at the same time, replacing a radiator (it's gas combi-boiler central heating). Also plan to add underfloor insulation as part of the same project, to the hall and the 2 adjoining reception rooms which are all suspended timber construction but non-original timber (all the bits I've seen so far, at least). Currently there are 18mm T&G pine floorboards, 100mm deep joists, we think floor replacement dates to work done to the house in early 1990s. Joist-joist centres vary across the floor, generally 450mm.

For the parquet, thinking will use rigid solvent adhesive (SIKABOND 5500 S or equivalent) that is happy with some bitumen residue (I'll be cleaning them up best I can before fitting) and happy with UFH, onto a plywood layer, min 6mm recommended.
Parquet blocks are we think a eucalyptus (jarrah?) and measure 80x350x18mm (will sand down thinner when re-finished).

For the UFH, I'm thinking pipes between joists in a shallow dry screed biscuit/bug mix, but haven't ruled out pipes within a foil-lined structural board layer above the joists if that is actually the better option.
(If going for the dry biscuit/pug mix I've got some more questions on the mix and the detailing for the insulation, but will save them for now).

I don't know if a thinner-than-structural plywood layer + adhesive + parquet can be considered a structural floor cumulatively if the same thickness of plywood alone wouldn't be considered to be? Does, for example, a 12mm plywood plus rigid adhesive holding a tight-fit 18mm parquet 'act' like the equivalent of flooring with 20mm+ sheets? Or not significantly better than the 12mm plywood on its own?
If it all counts and thus the plywood layer can be thinnish - that does seems to me to be the better way as there's less wood between UFH pipes and the room, and the pipes are sat in the dry screed biscuit/pug mix which is (I hear) more efficient to run. So then question is what would be the minimum sensible thickness of the plywood for a sturdy floor overall?

If instead I really ought to aim for a more significant structural layer (equivalent to relaying the existing floorboards) , then maybe just bringing the UFH pipes up into that layer by using a fancy pre-grooved UFH chipboard makes the build-up more efficient overall as the heat has less wood to get through so it can run at a lower flow temp for the same surface/room temp.

The overlay method with a proprietary board definitely seems an easier install, which automatically makes me think it must surely produce a less good end result, but maybe I'm just being negative.


I have lots of GBF tabs open around this subject (among many others) that I'm working through, so my answers might yet emerge from some older threads I haven't caught up with yet.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16943 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16943 Tue, 23 Feb 2021 22:06:00 +0000 ajdunlop
He has completed the insulation in one room and got a building inspector in to sign it off. However despite running it past Building Control it has failed to be signed off.

I will attempt to attach his wall build up.
It is 40mm of Celotex PIR attached to the walls with foam adhesive and all taped up (very neatly) to create a continuous vapour barrier.
Studwork (63mm) in in front of this has 50mm of sheep's wool insulation fitted.
All to be overboarded.

The problem the building inspector has is the danger of condensation on the metallic vapour barrier on the PIR because it is behind the sheep wool making it a cold surface. They have suggested sticking a polythene layer over the studwork but my friend is reluctant to do this. The reason for doing it the way he did was to keep the vapour layer buried and protected from punctures and for the breathability and humidity buffering properties of the sheeps wool.

What do you all think of the inspector's verdict? Any suggestions of what can be done?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16940 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16940 Sun, 21 Feb 2021 19:45:45 +0000 tony
We are finding an increasing number of problems with UPVC window seals. The predominant seals are rubber and these go brittle and loose their springiness allowing draughts to enter the building take a look and see if your curtains move when it is windy outside 😢

In other cases seals and glazing rubber seals have shrunk back leaving gaps at the corners, this could be as a result of the original seals having been stretched into place rather than pressed into place. Alternatively the seals may be shrinking with age, UV exposure or the action of ozone in the air.

Some budget windows omit the outer seal on the sash but generally have the grooves for them present. Replacement seals are readily available and if yours have failed for any of the above reasons they should be replaced. Please do this rather than replacing whole windows.

My own windows are wood clad with insulated aluminium sections on the outside with two rubber seals and two foam filled nylon tube seals to each sash. If I had UPVC windows with rubber seals I would seriously consider using encapsulated foam seals.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16927 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16927 Tue, 09 Feb 2021 10:52:49 +0000 greenfinger
We've got a decommissioned wood stove and we'll soon be having the flue removed, so the hole will need to be patched over... The same will be needed for a roof window or two we're having removed later in the year. We are supplying the slates. Our existing slates are 20" x 12".

I've been told that ours are likely Penrhyn Heather Blue, and wondered whether you guys agree?

Also, we went to the reclamation yard at the weekend and picked up some matching slates for the patch up work needed. I'm guessing it is hard to tell from photos, but I wondered whether anyone can tell what condition they are in? I read that they are supposed to ring when tapped; these certainly don't. But then I also read that not all old tiles will ring. I could try a short video of me tapping them with a hammer and post it to Google Drive?

Are the size of the holes and the damage around the holes a problem?

The reclaimed ones are also a tad larger; just by a few mm. Will that make the roofer's job more difficult or is that quite normal and expected?

Any thoughts before the workman comes to fit them would be much appreciated.

Many thanks

PS - I've uploaded the photos to Google Drive as there are quite a few of them. Hope that's ok. I'm happy to upload them into the thread via the forum if that's preferred? Just let me know. Cheers.

Slates on house:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1YpUPrAZ6QQ35g5d1BtWdEUwxTb9iPOi8?usp=sharing

Reclaimed slates bought:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1byJSHXGQ35OGeQbRsBeFQwSI6b3gIDc1?usp=sharing]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16922 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16922 Thu, 04 Feb 2021 11:47:12 +0000 kristeva
More damp shenanigans I'm afraid. I've learnt so much since my renovation began but the subject of damp, rising damp, and damp proofing is my biggest bugbear.

I've had a very nice builder at the house these last few days to fit some new joists in my kitchen and install a soil pipe. Today he dug out his moisture meter and took some readings on my walls downstairs, (all back to brick). The readings indicated damp, sometimes off the scale, at points beneath 1.2 meters, and some dry readings above. He firmly believes walls only need to breath one way and he wants me to bitumen tank the interior walls up to 1.2 meter and then dat & dab cellotex insulation. He reckons if I lime plaster the walls as soon as I move in and start heating the house all the moisture in the brick will be sucked in to the house!

I don't doubt the house has / has had problems but its a very complex issue. All the factors you could take into account are too numerous to list. The area has high clay content. I'm not sure the old screed floor in the kitchen is helping much. As I mentioned in previous threads I've already taken steps to remedy high external ground, installed new air bricks with regard to sub timber floor which was sweating, fixed faulty guttering, internal dpc injection (probably a waste of time).The house had last summer to 'dry out' but has not been heated this winter. I know there are salts in the chimneys which became apparent when I pumped a load of steam in most of the rooms removing thick wall paper.

Apologies for the ramble, I guess I'm debating whether I should take any stock in these meters? What are the alternative explanations? I've seen plenty of Peter Ward's videos showing these meters giving false readings, and I'm very interested in Tony's method of analysing/weighing brick dust (can't really afford a carbide meter). I need to make a decision about how I'm going to proceed as I'll be putting the house back together in the spring and I only want to do this once!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16901 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16901 Fri, 22 Jan 2021 17:44:17 +0000 kristeva
I've decided to try and use as much of the original hard wood floor as possible in my renovation. A lot of hard work I know but I'm not a huge fan of engineered wood or carpet. Beside the boards that had rotted, the floors are actually in pretty good condition with no finishings as far as I can tell. I don't want to strip them back to new, I want to maintain the history in there.

This subject seems to get covered a hell of a lot by both professionals and DIY'ers on the internet. I was wondering if any forum members had restored their original floors and what did you use to finish them?

My neighbour varnished her hard wood floors and it looks great but varnish isn't 'breathable' as I understand it? Perhaps not such an issue for the floors upstairs. Wax/oil is breathable but doesn't afford as much protection by all accounts with spillages, etc, and apparently is a bit of a faff to maintain.

Cheers]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16890 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16890 Fri, 15 Jan 2021 12:58:26 +0000 wholaa
I have a pretty typical house, end of terrace, semi cavity wall. There is some under screed insulation (PIR) but it's not great and I know great attention is paid to make cold bridge free foundations. Some corners of the house's ground floor screed get cold. One area gets to 7 Celcius on cold days. I wonder is it wise to dig a deep trench around the strip foundations, say a metre deep and line it with glass foam gravel insulation to get better floor insulation? Has anyone done this and could it damage the structural integrity of the structure?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16883 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16883 Mon, 11 Jan 2021 14:51:44 +0000 Ciriboyc
I'm renovating a small (75m²) cottage. Caried out most of the work myself using Breathable Materials, lime mortar etc.

However, when it came to the UFH I got a little scared and went with the more 'conventional' route...Concrete subfloor and slab.

The concrete slab was poured over a year ago, so I'm guessing it's good and dry at this stage:)

I'd like to finish it with a flagstone floor, but my plumber is a little worried about the heat penetrating through the thickness of the flags...while he's installed plenty of ufh systems, he has no experience in dealing with flagstones so I think he's being overly cautious...but I'd really like some more opinions on this.

The first flagstones I'm looking at are Indian limestone calibrated to 20mm.

I also however have the option of locally sourced slate flags, but these vary in thickness from about 20mm to 45mm. These would be irregular shaped, but I could work them a little and the cottage is extremely 'rustic' anyway so I would be more than happy with these.


The second option would be my preferred choice...I would love to get them locally, plus I like the more natural look of them...and also the price is definitely right! (tight budget!) but there are 2 issues I'm worried about with these flags:

1. If the plumber is worried about the 20mm...I'm afraid he'd freak completely if I mentioned the 40mm :cry:

2. If the flags are of varying thickness, I'm assuming I would have to grade them to keep things level-ish? would this affect the heating?


So, I guess my question are:

Is there any limit on the thickness/depth of Flags that can be used? (I realise responsiveness becomes an issue the thicker you go)

and

Is there any problem with flags of varying thickness?

Any suggestions/advice is appreciated!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16416 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16416 Thu, 23 Jan 2020 21:29:25 +0000 modernvictorian
The alternative is to lay the pipes on top of the joists (on a new floor layer) but would result in a raised floor and I'm not sure I have the ceiling height downstairs (but OK upstairs).]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16885 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16885 Tue, 12 Jan 2021 07:22:22 +0000 kristeva
Yesterday I stripped the wallpaper from the walls of my small bedroom back to the lime plaster and discovered this black tar -like mark on my chimney breast. It has some kind of metallic foil / paper over it.

Does anyone know what this might be or why its there?

I wondered if it was an attempt to cover up damp patches - problems with salts in the chimney.

I was going to skim the room with lime plaster.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16880 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16880 Sun, 10 Jan 2021 10:00:41 +0000 Ebeneezer
My question is what low cost/disruption options are available for the solid floor. Digging out the concrete, insulating and covering with a new screed would be outside of the budget so is there anything worth doing that would be a significant upgrade on just using very good underlay?

These rooms will be be carpeted so if there was product with was [x]mm of “good” insulation that could have carpet laid directly on top of it that would be ideal.

I have seen the Sempafloor product but when I asked about the U-Values I wasn’t impressed. Is there anything you would recommend?


We are doing quiet a bit of improvement and these rooms will probably be the last things we do but I want to keep the floor (mostly) level across the house so if that is going to be 25mm (or whatever) higher I’d like to plan for it before we start on the other rooms.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16532 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16532 Sun, 26 Apr 2020 13:11:45 +0100 LF
We have a late 1950 traditional red brick semi which was double height side extended 17 years ago.
It is getting ready for refurb as things are wearing out and eldest has now left home etc.

Existing windows are mainly 28mm double glazed and coated white PVC rehau units done at the time of the extension.(very badly with no sealing foam and lots of cold draughts around the frames but this is mainly sorted.)
We have well insulated loft, mainly LED lighting, draft proofed etc., heavy curtains/blinds etc. I think heat loss through doors/windows is currently about 1/4 of heat leak through the floor which is solid and original parquee and tile. We are not planning to take this up as we like it. Extension floor has 100 mm of polystyrene under it and this as it was done in 2003.

General question. Is it worth stumping up more for triple glazed rather than argon filled double glazed and could you give advice on good suppliers. We are after warm feel so we can sit by windows and areas are looking over garden and we want to be able to see it rather than masses of window frame as we do currently.
Munster, Green Building Store and Vu Fold are currently people I am going to go to.

We are after seeing out garden rather than window and door frames and a are looking for a good value frame system but it has to be very draft proof. Aluminium, wood or UPVc considered.

1 to 3 are all at back of house, West facing evening sun. All one space that ventilates together. Look of the 3 windows and doors need to gel from inside and out.

1.At the back we have a 2.4 m wide steel crittal door/ window that will not take a double glazed panel and even with secondary glazing is cold/knackered. I caulk them up for the winter and release them in the spring.
We put laminated glass in some years ago when kids were toddling and the putty has leached into the glass too.

We are looking to replace this with a large window with a seat/wooden wide ledge under after bricking up at low level.
We have ventilation elsewhere and are thinking just one great big window about 2.4 m by 1.6m high
We put laminated glass in some years ago when kids were toddling and the putty has leached into the glass too.

2. We have Rehau french doors 1.8 m wide next to a 1.1 m window in the extension dining room.
I have resealed the rubbers and still not happy they are very warm. Window is currently,where door should be as it stops sofa and table positions being in way of current walk way.

We are thinking a 2 panel sliding door with good thermal performance and narrow frame so we can see garden better.(2.9 m wide) Not seen any PVC ones with narrow enough sightline.

Bifolds I think will have too much frame for what we want them for.
Low threshold with no trip hazard preferably flat.

3. We have a kitchen sink window between 1 and 2 and would change it to match and get rid of centre of frame opening that stops me seeing the apple tree. Current window is about 1.1 m wide and left hand side opens outwards from the top, so we have to go outside to close it!
Thinking a side handle with window that tilts inwards, hinged at bottom.

Appreciate any input you can give me.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16866 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16866 Fri, 01 Jan 2021 15:20:26 +0000 tonya My views on concrete block is that they are totally energy inefficient as the blockwork conducts cold so easily. Although we have a double wall with cavity my view is the internal wall which runs below floor level is subject to extreme cold in the void under the building and this then comes up through the wall. I have had to internally insulate which has worked on all external walls. However there is one internal supporting wall that I haven't done and its very cold.
My point is isn't this method of building so energy inefficient it shouldn't be used?
If the intenal wall was timber framed with insualtioin inbetween the timbers this would be much more efficient?

Am I being naive?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16841 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16841 Sun, 13 Dec 2020 12:19:34 +0000 kristeva
I was just wondering what people opinions were of this article I found on the Heritage House website?

https://www.heritage-house.org/stuff-about-old-buildings/insulation/internal-insulation-to-old-house-walls.html

It argues a solid brick or stone wall alone is good insulator provided its dry. If you internally insulate an old house you lose the benefits of heated walls, particularly external walls, that provide an overall thermal mass with gentle constant heating. Its an interesting idea.

I've been making plans to insulate some of my internal walls with Steico wood fibre boards, probably no more than 40 - 60mm so I'd be interested in what people think.

Cheers

P]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16758 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16758 Fri, 16 Oct 2020 16:07:24 +0100 Victorianeco