Tue, 19 Dec 2023 03:22:51 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18040 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18040 Fri, 01 Dec 2023 10:47:01 +0000 GBP-Keith http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=289 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=289 Tue, 15 May 2007 18:00:44 +0100 GBP-Keith http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18045 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18045 Fri, 08 Dec 2023 15:56:08 +0000 Rex
Have a 12v 5W halogen in the garage door opening motor that has given up the ghost. Would like to replace with a wider beam angle bulb and LED seems to be the way to go.

But seems that it is not so easy to just plug one in (balanced transformer / flickering) or am I missing something?

Will any of China's finest 12V 5W LED bulbs be plug and go or do I need to fiddle with things?

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18051 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18051 Fri, 15 Dec 2023 09:32:39 +0000 djh http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17808 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17808 Sat, 08 Apr 2023 11:53:01 +0100 Rex
I have a Flexit (Helios?) L4X HVMR unit which I installed when I built my house, around 12 years ago. I change the filters regularly; it runs around 8 hours per day over three different time periods. The last period is the late evening and I press the central button on the control panel for a 30 min high speed boost to remove moist air from the bathroom.

It is connected to the UFH pipework so when the UFH is on, there is a bit of pre-heating of the incoming air.

Recently, too frequently, I seen the panel (image below) with the red warning LED (top) illuminated. According to the instructions, this is an overheating thermostat warning light when the unit starts. The solution is in the loft, (very inconvenient following a both!) press the 'Reset' button. Usually, I also unplug before resetting.

Back at the control panel, sometimes pressing the two temp buttons (left and right buttons) simultaneously is necessary, but the unit then starts and works fine.

There are only two thermostats that I am aware of; one on the supply side, after the unit to measure the air temp and one within the heat exchanger. I have cleaned both.

My problem is that I have no idea what overheating thermostat actually means, where to find it and how to cure the issue.

Grateful for some advice.

Many thanks and toodle pip

The photo show the panel in warning' mode. The left/right -/+ set the temp, which with both red lights on, is 20C as need to reset via this panel. The C light is sometime on and sometime not; don't really know what it is telling me!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18044 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18044 Wed, 06 Dec 2023 13:43:42 +0000 Rex
We own a first floor maisonette, built around 1960 ish, which we rent out.

The drainage from the kitchen (sink and washing machine) exit in a 4" ceramic trap on the ground near the g/f neighbour's kitchen door. Although I have asked the tenants to limit their use of oil/fat in cooking and please use liquid detergent in the washing machine, about every six months, the outlet in the 4" sump gets clogged with something (fatball?)

It is inconvenient for the g/f neighbour who expects me as the DIY (ie. cheapskate) flat maintenance expert, to clear it. Never once has he even offered a bottle of 'thank you' wine. Unfortunately, the drainage pipe extends about 2" into the 4" sump, making in impossible to get ones hand in to clear the blockage. Jet wash generally is what I use.

However, my question, is there any liquid that I can squirt into the sump that will 'dislodge/dissolve' the fatball?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18041 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18041 Fri, 01 Dec 2023 11:52:56 +0000 JulesS The building is cut into a hillside with a narrow void between the rear wall and the hill, over the years this void has filled in with earth. Directly behind the building is a road (single track).

Our problem is there is a lot of water finding its way into the building. In an ideal world we'd dig out the void down to below final floor level and install a drain to move the water away before it gets to the building. However because the road is so close to the back of the building if we dig it out we'd be worried about undermining it. In the long term we want to insulate externally (wood fibreboard), so getting down to this level would be awesome.

From an inspection pit we can see that the original depth of the void is about 60cms higher than the final floor level so if we did dig down we'd be going lower than they originally did. There is some evidence of a retaining stone wall holding the bank back, but it's in very bad condition and has been pushed about by trees.

Digging out the void will be difficult as there's no real access for machinery, so probably would have to be done by hand.

Our current thoughts are: dig it out section by section to below eventual floor level installing a drain, put a porous membrane in and backfill with gabions filled with FGA to the original void level... I've no idea if this is a good idea or feasible, we've come to this by chatting it over with our architect and an SE. I've attached an indicative section of this.

I would love folks' opinions on this, and am open to any ideas on how to tackle it. We'd also be really grateful if folks could suggest a professional with specialism across old buildings, civil engineering (?) and drainage we could get advice from, as we're really struggling to get specific help with this.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18049 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18049 Thu, 14 Dec 2023 11:15:43 +0000 Doubting_Thomas
For context, we’ve identified a thermal bridge at the corners of a proposed office building. The envelope subcontractor is proposing to change the psi-value test criteria to -2° rather than -5° to scrape a pass, on the grounds that it doesn’t get that cold very often.

I’d like to demonstrate the amount of water vapour that is likely to be produced by the occupants, as a ball park figure, to illustrate why we’d be better off eliminating the thermal bridge or using a VCL than relying on balmy winters.

I scraped the following figures from the web:

• normal respiratory rate for an adult at rest is ~15 breaths per minute.
• 0.5 litres per breath, so 7.5 litres/minute or 450 litres exhaled/hour
• when you exhale, you release up to 17.5 milliliters of water/hour (assuming exhaled air is 37°C @100% RH)

The highest occupancy room is around 120 persons in a room that is 350m² and 3.5m high. So the volume is 1225m³ or 1,225,000 litres.

Average ventilation rate from AHUs is 12 l/s/person.

Internal temperature 20°, RH assumed at 50%, Dewpoint is 9.3°

So each hour, the 120 people are generating 2.1 litres of extra water vapour (120 * 17.5ml). But that is going into a space that receives (12*120*3600) 5.2M litres (?!) of fresh air in the same time period.

Does that mean I’m worrying about nothing? Or will there be other factors that I haven’t considered? Bear in mind this is just a ‘back-of-the-envelope’ assessment.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18048 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18048 Wed, 13 Dec 2023 21:37:06 +0000 huwrugby
Could I simply fill the interior end of the duct with insulation or better, seal over with cement mix?

On the exterior I would be able to access the vent but only able to seal the external block & not the inner without major excavation within the room. Am I better leaving the duct & vent externally open or somehow insulating the ducting without ending up with the ducting being open to the cavity.

I hope this forum may be able to offer some advice & suggestions.

Huw]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18052 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18052 Fri, 15 Dec 2023 10:37:24 +0000 Artiglio
As a result of some over enthusiastic estimating by the suppliers , my failure to check their properly and a few changes when it came to actual installation. I have 3 x 50m rolls of

Profi - air classic grey NW 75 radial ductin that is surplus to requirements along with 3 x 2 lengths of 125 mm round duct along with a few bits and pieces. If its of any interest to anyone drop me a line. £100 a roll or £250 for the 3.

Location is east kent, but i can strap it to a pallet for collection.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17977 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17977 Mon, 02 Oct 2023 22:29:26 +0100 an02ew
i am designing and building a small 2 bed detatched bungalow (in total 58m2 int floor) it follows our usual building fabric design:

-insulated raft foundation conncted to EWI connected to EPS loft insulation (totally unbroken insulation element and lots of thermal mass)
-ATness below 0.6 m3/m2
-MVHR (90%)
- 3g window and doors
- 3kW slimjim direct to UFH
-direct cylinder with twin immersion or instant water heaters(budget dependant)

i had this run through the new SAP10 (pre design) and it failed, not due to the fabric efficiency but becuase of the fuel price calc, it seems the only way to get a new building through the new SAP10 is with bolt on PV or ASHP (good news again for installers) In this particular build the budget is very tight and both are costly the ASHP has to low return due to the the low kW/m2/yr and the single occupant has low daytime electrical usage and no EV resulting in a low return value.

IMO SAP10 sends the wrong message, should'nt we be rewarding liftime energy efficient construction methods not short term panels and pumps?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18043 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18043 Tue, 05 Dec 2023 20:16:36 +0000 greenfinger
Got plenty of caulking and filling coming up... I'd not heard of backer rod until recently, and having read up a bit on it it seems there's many others who are unaware of it. The big name stores don't seem to sell it either, which made me wonder how commonly it's used...

So, any fans of backer rod here for use in channels, chases, etc prior to caulking?

On a more technical note, there's a fair bit of online chat RE open vs closed cell. Apparently, open cell is more pliable/flexible and better for squeezing into gaps but not good if it gets wet. Also, they say closed sell off gases when cut or torn which can cause problems and even cause the caulk to bubble. But that's mainly from US sites/forums. Here in the UK, there's not much talk of it and the shops that do sell it seem to just sell "standard" stuff (which is closed cell). Does anyone know anything about this open/closed cell business?

Cheers]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18046 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18046 Mon, 11 Dec 2023 19:39:44 +0000 chrisinbrighton The roof angle is 115 degrees.
Do the experts here think the copper nails will be sufficient?

Thanks,
Chris]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18037 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18037 Sat, 25 Nov 2023 12:56:37 +0000 Artiglio
In my never ending project , i’ve got to a bit of a conundrum, the building is an 1800’s 3 bay threshing barn, previously much messed with, slowly working toward converting it to a modernish home. All gone pretty well so far, I’ve now got to what will be the lounge, this incorporates 2 dwarf walls that project about 2m into the room perpendicular to the external walls on which parts of the timber frame sit. Whilst I’ve not gone overboard with the insulation on the external walls ( 60mm wood fibre) these dwarf walls need to be left as they are, but obviously represent huge thermal bridges from both the external wall and ground/foundations.
They soon discolour with condensation when it is cold outside, my plan is to have a inlet from the mvhr in the ceiling adjacent to each of them and an extract on the opposite side of the room ( which is 8m x 5m ), along with a radiator next to each of them, ( room has 4 rads, and designed to be sufficient for the room with flow rates of 50 degrees with external temps of 0) eventually there’ll be a wood stove to deal with the really cold days or the boiler will just get turned up via the weather comp on the boiler.
In my head I’m seeing a continual flow fresh air drawing any condensation that may form away from the walls , but ideally the input of generally drier external air and the heat from the radiators ( keeping the walls above dew point ) will mean humidity and temps are such that no problem has a chance to arise.

Whilst a long way from an ideal construction - planning restrictions , listed building consent and budget constraints , would this be seen as a sensible approach?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18038 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18038 Sun, 26 Nov 2023 13:02:49 +0000 Victorianeco
Also any brands preferred? I'm looking to put a few of my team on a flat roofing course but as with most things they are 'product specific' to ensure warranties are met.

Would you also try to eliminate flat roofs where possible or do they serve a purpose?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18042 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18042 Mon, 04 Dec 2023 11:42:42 +0000 rsk1
There are plenty airtight breather membranes available, but how do they actually work? Can't visualise how moisture can get through but not air

I've read on here that you shouldn't have fluff insulation in contact with ext walls as it can wick moisture onto timbers. Is that right? given that timber is already in contact with ext walls, isn't that already a risk?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18035 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18035 Thu, 23 Nov 2023 07:17:25 +0000 Victorianeco
I have a few people interested and recent quotes from local MCS installers are quoting ~£13000 for supply and fit... leaving £5500 for the individuals to pay themselves....

I have my own VAT registered building maintenance company but just wondering if this is worth it?

What steps one would need to take? And I assume one would need to go on a supplier course or similar?

I could install heat pumps to my wife's 2 retail premises and my own commercial unit, and I have my own house to renovate once the purchase goes through]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18036 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18036 Thu, 23 Nov 2023 23:25:24 +0000 Jeff B http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18033 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18033 Wed, 22 Nov 2023 13:48:17 +0000 Rex
The land for my house has a fall of around3-4 meters, front to back over about 50 m. Rainwater from the roundabout in front tends to drain onto my land a prior to building, sort of 'flooded' the front garden.

During the build, I installed a sump on the verge and took a underground drainage to the woodland at the rear of the garden. Unfortunately, I did not take photographs. Although buried on my land, the actual outlet was on the surface in the woods so that water could drain out. But 1,2, 3, or 4 meters from my boundary? Beats me?

Nowadays, the water does drain away, and then the flooding starts again. I think the outlet in the woodland has become blocked with leaves, twigs and perhaps 'someone' has made a home there. I would like to find the outlet but uncertain where it is, and it is certainly now covered with brambles, fallen branches, etc.

My question is, what would be the best way to find the outlet without actually clearing everything and digging where I 'think' it may be?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18029 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18029 Mon, 20 Nov 2023 14:42:10 +0000 Rex
In the greater scheme of building questions, a question about clearing the kitchen sink rates rather low.

But I have just done it and not surprisingly, found it somewhat blocked with black algae and gunk. I have searched with Dr. Google on how to keep it clear but I really do not understand.

Pouring bicarb of soda and vinegar will probably do the job, but that mixture will not get into the trap nor will it get further along the outlet pipes to clear them, which is where my blockage was.

Other than dismantling and manually clearing the pipes, is there a 'best way' to do it?

Should point out that the gunk is not really fat/oil based at all as we use virtually no oil for cooking.

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18032 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18032 Wed, 22 Nov 2023 06:27:36 +0000 Charenteman
Is a non return valve an essential component to the return leg from the pump station to the collector?
My previous install had a NRV in the pump station itself but have just noticed that this is not a feature to the pump station spec to my latest install.
There is little sunshine here at the moment, but is the lack of a NRV going to cause a significant future syphonnage problem when the sun comes out?
Thinking of modifying if I have made a significant omission here ??.
Thoughts anyone?

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18027 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18027 Fri, 17 Nov 2023 22:36:42 +0000 blubb - One company offers to do a thorough job at reducing thermal bridges: going up to the rafters with the EWI which means redoing the soffit, insulating the 50mm wall bit around the window perimeter with 15mm thick PIR, insulating below the DPC.
- Another company is reluctant to do any of the above (it does not fit their standard programme). Their offer is however 7k cheaper.
I would appreciate some help with understanding how much "doing a proper job" at eliminating thermal bridges would really benefit the house insulation overall...
Opinions?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18018 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18018 Fri, 10 Nov 2023 11:58:08 +0000 lineweight
We can raise the floor level by a bit - doors and so on will be replaced anyway - but not by too much, because then we will run into headroom problems.

It's an existing (damp) ground bearing concrete slab. Digging it out is not feasible. We are looking at an engineered timber floor finish. No underfloor heating. As far as I can make out the basic options are:

1) An insulated underlay straight onto the slab on top of the dpm, and the most insulative option seems to be those which are 5 or 6mm polystyrene. Of course this is not going to provide any kind of substantial insulation but hopefully "better than nothing".

2) A minimal layer of XPS70 or XPS100 insulation (say 25mm) but then you need a layer of board on top of that, then an underlay, then the flooring board itself. To bump up the insulation layer from 5 to 25mm you have to add an extra 40mm or so of buildup, because of the extra layer of board.

My question: are there any other effective options that I've not thought about?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18025 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18025 Fri, 17 Nov 2023 17:33:02 +0000 Charenteman
Can anyone advise on a set up problem with this controller ModvSol S ?
It should be a very basic S1 S2 temperature difference pumped operation between the panels sensor and solar pocket sensor.
The instruction Manual only illustrates various S1 S2 scenarios.
However when I turn the system on it illustrates S1 S2 and S3.
S1 shows nothing
The expected S1 reading is shown as S2 (48 degrees when I put the tubes in late this afternoon)
The expected S2 reading is shown as S3 (16 degrees at the solar coil area at the base of the cylinder)

The system is not running/pumping at all and I am very worried that the collectors are going to overheat if the sun returns tomorrow.

The pre wired box seems to be wired correctly.

Do these symptoms mean anything to anyone?!!

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17942 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17942 Tue, 05 Sep 2023 18:05:05 +0100 jon
Not a lot to the certification side (DNO, Build Regs, Elec certs and so on). I doubt we'll recover the cost (£250) as next stage is the battery. But signed up anyway as being non-MCS but paid export might make a second 'winter array' a worthwhile thing to do (too unique/niche to interest most installers).]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18021 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18021 Wed, 15 Nov 2023 12:22:33 +0000 owlman Prices vary massively £12- £150. My CUs are Hager and no prizes for guessing who's timers cost £150. Does anyone have any experience, good or bad, of cheaper modules.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18019 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18019 Mon, 13 Nov 2023 09:27:37 +0000 fostertom https://www.newscientist.com/article/2334240-floating-artificial-leaf-converts-energy-from-sunlight-into-fuel

But no one spells it out - where's the carbon coming from, presumably from atmosphere, or maybe from the pond water?!
Seems, at best it's capturing then pretty soon re-emitting carbon already in the cycle, rather than releasing 'new' carbon from fossil sequestration - as well as partially substituting 'harmless' green hydrogen for carbon, in this 'future' fuel mix.

“The crucial point is that we are not decarbonising the economy through techniques like these,” Reisner said. “Carbon is still a key component. What we are doing is to ‘defossilise’ the economy. We will no longer be burning ancient sources of carbon – coal, oil and gas – and adding greenhouse gases to the atmosphere".

What does the team think? What about the embodied energy/carbon, rare elements etc, in making/maintaining the 'machinery' and collecting/distributing the product?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17993 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17993 Tue, 17 Oct 2023 10:50:32 +0100 WillInAberdeen
1) has anyone had EWI applied onto an existing roughcast surface, or does it have to be chipped off first? How is it glued on without voids?

2) can a roughcast surface be applied onto EWI? Most of the systems seem to use a thin smooth top coat with much smaller aggregate in it, 3mm?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18017 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18017 Thu, 09 Nov 2023 22:02:15 +0000 tony http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18012 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18012 Fri, 03 Nov 2023 12:42:03 +0000 tony
The washers seem to have expanded a few mm in diameter and .3mm in thickness, see pics , what in water could cause silicone to blister yet not be harmful to us?

See below for link to photo]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18008 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18008 Tue, 31 Oct 2023 08:49:15 +0000 borpin
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-66987799

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-leeds-67267093]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17997 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17997 Wed, 18 Oct 2023 18:39:48 +0100 Nick Parsons
Thanks. Nick

P.S: I got this:

"The information you’re about to submit is not secure
Because this form is being submitted using a connection that’s not secure, your information will be visible to others.' and it would not send. Trying again.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18010 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18010 Wed, 01 Nov 2023 11:43:30 +0000 djh http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18009 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18009 Tue, 31 Oct 2023 09:34:08 +0000 revor
https://www.pv-magazine.com/2023/10/30/cause-of-30-kwh-battery-explosion-in-germany-remains-unclear/]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18003 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18003 Fri, 20 Oct 2023 16:47:19 +0100 sgt_woulds
As part of my extension works the original 1960 roof was taken off, which has left me with a pile of fantastic quality, highly seasoned, and dead straight timbers.

Once de-nailed they seem perfect for internal partition walls, but will this cause any issues with BC?

I won't try to use them for any structural elements - even though they probably exceed C24 by a wide margin]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17960 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17960 Tue, 19 Sep 2023 12:50:03 +0100 Osprey
Anybody know if this is a temporary shortage, or has glass wool won the 'loft roll war'?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17996 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17996 Wed, 18 Oct 2023 17:14:16 +0100 bogal2 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18001 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18001 Thu, 19 Oct 2023 14:50:20 +0100 Jeff B
https://www.euronews.com/green/2023/10/14/flooded-and-forgotten-how-europe-s-disused-coal-mines-could-help-heat-our-homes?utm_source=pocket-newtab-en-gb

Great that it could be used to supply homes in areas which were once mining communities!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17995 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17995 Wed, 18 Oct 2023 13:22:06 +0100 Nick Parsons
Thanks Tony. Thoroughly enjoyed it]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17970 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17970 Tue, 26 Sep 2023 11:21:51 +0100 fostertom
The recently revision to BS5250:2021 was intended to fix its shortcomings, with an excellent whole-building approach to all forms of moisture, in place of the simplistic/prescriptive approach of old BS5250:2002 and :2011. It allows (prefers) use of WUFI via BS 15026, explaining the limitations of the Glaser method via BS13788:2002. Yet I see that Bldg Regs Part C (still 2013 version) still requires compliance with BS5250:2002 (two versions out of date) i.e. use of Glaser method; BS 15026 isn't mentioned anywhere in the current Bldg Regs.

So can WUFI be used at all in UK Bldg Regs? It obviously has been in useful use for years, so what's the route?

And following that, what do I have to do to gain Accreditation to use my WUFI study in a Bldg Regs application? I've done the TGR 2-day course (twice actually) but that included no such certificate. I'm asking this elsewhere, but any idea here?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17994 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17994 Wed, 18 Oct 2023 06:44:48 +0100 cjard
However, it's going in a seldom-heated 60sqm garden room gym/cinema that will be well insulated everywhere else though so I'm not sure whether upgrading the glazing is actually ever going to pay back the money, effort or emissions associated with the remanufacture. Probably easier all round to get a decent set of curtains

what do you good people think? Is upgrading DG by improving what you already have ever worth it?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17975 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17975 Thu, 28 Sep 2023 19:27:32 +0100 Victorianeco
The build is a 60s cavity construction right on the sea front.

I assume EWI would be best but at ~£110m2 it just seems it outweighs any energy savings in the long run...

£30k plus scaffold, roof extensions and so on.... we'd also like to renew the windows at a great expense.

What are people's thoughts? It's a bit of a 'slightly' different project compared to my previous mid terraced renovation....]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17971 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17971 Tue, 26 Sep 2023 20:45:57 +0100 Artiglio
I’ve a house not far from me that likes an evening firepit / bonfire, which when it’s either still or wind blows the wrong way ends up with smoke sucked in through my MVHR, this situation never occurred to me when the wiring was done and the only way to switch it off wothout going into the loft is from the consumer unit but this also isolates another room.
Plus I usually switch it off i house is going to be empty for more than a couple of days. It’d handy to have a more convenient way of turning it off. The simplest would be a wifi controllable switch/ sockett via an app. Plus i’d have the bonus of being able to turn it back on before i get home.

Plenty of options out there, anyone have any experience/ recommendations.

Many thanks phil]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17992 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17992 Sat, 14 Oct 2023 17:11:00 +0100 Artiglio
A friend has moved into a new home ( to them) and is experiencing issues with mould. It would appear that there is a bit of an issue of cold bridging associated with an rsj used as part of an extension built about 20 years ago ( in as much as the mould pretty much follows the line of the steel )
Use of a dehumidifier has much reduced the problem and they are taking some temperature and humidity readings in the room. Previous owners had ( they say) no problems , however they were a couple that were out most of the day, whereas the new occupants work from home and have 3 dogs.
They are starting to lean towards installing a decentralised mvhr innthe affected room.
Has anyone on here any experience with such units and if so have any recommendations or advice?

Many thanks.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17988 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17988 Fri, 06 Oct 2023 14:49:06 +0100 djh
About 12:50 there was a loud pop and my computer went off. On investigation just one RCD and an associated MCB were tripped in one CU. The MCB is labelled correctly as "porch socket" and has a light and a Raspberry Pi powered from it. After a quick look around I turned the RCD back on. It stayed on and power came back where it was off. After another minute or so I turned the MCB back on. It too stayed on and the pi in the porch came back on. So I have no explanation for why the power went off!

Any thoughts?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17963 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17963 Wed, 20 Sep 2023 10:04:07 +0100 GarethC
We live in a Victorian sandstone building split into three flats, of which we're the 'ground' floor flat, but have a property below us as the land slopes away from the road.

Conservation area. Micro bore pipes, high ceilings and cornicing so little scope for insulation. Secondary glazed throughout with my own product. Four bedrooms. No chance

I'm minded to install 6 unit multi split air conditioning system to the living room, kitchen, three bedrooms and the hall, and retain our combi gas boiler for hot water and to top up the rest of the areas. I hope to reduce gas usage by at least 75% this way. Outdoor unit would be in our back garden which starts at the side of the property.

This is the point where my head starts to hurt. I realise this topic has probably be done to death and I should really just research further, but any observations about whether this is a decent plan, of there's a better one, gratefully received. Desperate to upgrade the heating system vaguely affordably.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17982 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17982 Tue, 03 Oct 2023 21:50:48 +0100 georgiegirl
We have also installed a 6kW pv array with 5kW battery storage last winter. We are currently still on a fixed tariff that is about to end, but will then switch to either an ev or economy 7 tariff. We are also about to renovate our ground floor. The gas boiler will need to be moved, but I'm more inclined to ditch the gas and so am looking for an alternative to the combi boiler.

I came across the McDonalds Electrastore thermal store and thought it sounded really interesting. It has 2 immersions at the bottom to heat from E7 or time of use tariffs and another immersion higher up to boost the top of the store during the summer for hot water requirements.

I just wanted to run my thoughts past those who know better than me please. I'm thinking that during the summer a diverter could take excess from our PV array to heat the top of the store for evening showers. Central heating won't be required so the bottom immersions aren't needed. When its cold enough to switch the heating on the bottom immersions would be activated and heat the tank at the cheap rate. Does this sound like it could work? Alternatives that don't involve heat pumps? Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17984 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17984 Wed, 04 Oct 2023 10:30:36 +0100 maxsm
a) slightly chase the pipes into the exterior wall by removing some of the cladding

b) lay the pipes directly onto the clad exterior wall

c) do something cunning I haven't thought of

thanks for any help]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17978 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17978 Tue, 03 Oct 2023 17:56:30 +0100 fostertom https://fundacjabrda.org/en
Great idea! Already Veronica from Dalston, East London has contributed!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17948 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17948 Tue, 12 Sep 2023 16:48:09 +0100 Artiglio
The block consists of 6 flats, 4 have combi boilers, 2 have conventional heating/dhw boilers. The block has two cold water storage tanks in a rooftop tank room. When the council changed their 4 flats over to combis, they didn’t remove the dead legs created in the feed pipes from the tanks nor reduce the size of the storage tanks. ( they claim that the cold tanks also feed toilets and cold taps in the flats, certainly doesn’t in my flat but can’t say for others but very unlikely).

Annual checks on the tanks are perfectly reasonable to which i’m liable for my share, checks on hot water temp and cold supply under hse guidance is acceptable annually and is easily done at the same time as the gas cert. However the council is saying that the block also needs testing of “Sentinel” outlets on a monthyl basis if they can get access. Frommwhat i can see from a web search sentinel points are hot outlets associated with recirculating hot water systems not closed domestic systems.
My council is well known for cosy deals and handing out a contract to check temperatures monthly is just gold plating and will be very unlikely to happen, the charge for this on my block of 6 is £117.50 a month their are 3 such blocks in the building. Nice little job if you can get it.
Is my understanding of “sentinel “ correct ? As the water is heated within the flat, it surely falls into the domestic scope.

Any help appreciated.]]>