Green Building Forum - Housing - Renovation

Sanding of floorboards

moogaloo — Tue, 05 Jun 2007 13:54:50 +0100

Not strictly a green building issue, but an issue arising whilst green building (I have had to have my floorboards refitted for a solar hot water underfloor heating system.)

Anyway my floorboards have been belt sanded before refitting and look good, there is some un eveness between the boards, but I am not sure that I dislke this.

So I was thinking of using an orbital sander to get rid of the more pronounced unevenness and any marks still left on the floor before sealing. My carpanter does not think this is a good idea and recommends using a big floor sander,

Is there anything wrong with what I am planning to do, or am I fool for thinking it?

For extra info my boards are pine.

BTW will be sealing with Kumos Natural Oil Sealer in case anyone has any experience here?

Sun room extension

Chris Wardle — Mon, 30 Apr 2007 11:40:33 +0100

I have a little project for the summer that I could use some advice on. My Mum has a conservatory on the back of her bungalow. It is south facing so like oven in summer and freezing in winter, bar the odd sunny day. She wants it replacing with a proper sun room extension that can be used all year round.

The plan is to take the conservatory down to floor slab level and re-use the existing slab, extending it to one side so that the new extension runs across the whole of the rear gable end of the bungalow (stepped in about 500mm at each side). The overall width will be 5.4m and it will extend 2.4m from the house, so fairly small and cost is an issue as the client is now a pensioner!

I would like to build it out of a single skin of concrete blocks, externally insulated and finished with a timber rain screen to give some thermal mass to the room and take advantage of passive solar gains. A number of things are currently vexing me:-

1 Will the building inspector accept the reuse of the conservatory slab? How do I handle this i.e. should I just ask or dig a hole next to the footings before he comes on site?
2 Am I more likely to be able to re-use the slab if I propose a light weight construction, i.e. timber frame, rather than blockwork walls?
3 The extension will be next to the two bedrooms of the house which have no windows except those that will be covered by the extension (the exisiting conservatory is currently accessed through the main bedroom). The plan is to put an internal floor to ceiling window between the extension and the main bedroom with an opening casement for ventilation and a combination frame with door and opening casement from the spare bedroom through which the sun room will be accessed. Will this infringe the building regulations as the ventilation for the bedroom with be through the sun room?
4 Existing rain water off the conservatory roof flows into a water butt with over-flow into a flower bed. We would like to retain a similar arrangement linking the overflow of the water butt to a perforated irrigation pipe wich I will lay in the flower bed under the mulch. Will building control accept this as a reasonable solution or will I be digging a soak away?
5 The roof will essentially be a lean-to type affair to keep the overall high under 4m to avoid the need for planning permission, but there will have to be a hip at each side because of the level of the roof line of the bungalow. I had planned to use timber shingles to finish the roof. Can these be fitted around a hip and remain water-tight?
6 Can I build a single storey extension in 100mm block work or will it have to be 140mm?
7 There will be no insulation in the existing slab so little point in putting any in the extra bit to the side. I don't want to isolate the thermal mass in the slab so can't insulate over the top of it. Can I get over this and comply with the building regs by beefing up the roof and wall insulation?
8 Wall space for a radiator in the extension will be a premium (bungalow is gas centrally heated with new condensing combi). I had thought about a small amount of electric undertile heating (floor will be tiled) on a separate thermostat to the rest of the house so the heating would be more responsive to passive solar gains. Would this be a mistake given that there will be no insulation in the slab?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks, Chris.

Heating my cottage

SteveE — Thu, 31 May 2007 07:50:17 +0100

We've just moved into a three bedroomed cottage, (in a non gas supplied area), which was re-furbished about 18 years ago. The insulation isn't very good, so that has to be looked at but my main priority at the moment is getting away from the overnight electric storage heaters which heat the house, (not very well though). We have a largish lounge, which incorporates an open staircase to the first floor, the lounge has an ingle nook fireplace with a Dovre multi fuel fire. I'd like to utilise the fireplace to fit a new fire with wrap around boiler to heat water and if possible power a central heating system for the house. The summer months obviously need to be covered, and the cottage is in a conservation area, so solar panels or wind power probably aren't an option, so I supplose I'll have to retain some form of electric water heating system. Anyone had similar experiences please who could give me a bit of advice? I'm open to any suggestions, including heat pumps etc.

Cheers

External Insulation Eves Detailing

Bowman — Tue, 05 Jun 2007 08:36:33 +0100

We are considering external insulation on our next renovation of a thoroughly conventional bungalow, probably soft board, does anyone have any experience or ideas with how to deal with cold bridging across the wall plate and eves? I was considering converting the roof from cold to warm with either soft board or foil, and extending the insulation down to plate to meet up with the external insulation as much as possible. Access to eves/plate is going to be a problem from the inside due to shallow pitch and I'd like to avoid stripping the lower rows of tiles off.

Any thoughts much appreciated.

External insulation of solid stone walls

Astro — Fri, 25 May 2007 15:06:34 +0100

Hi, this is Astro's first post. I am renovating a very small ground floor flat in an old house in Bulgaria and have exposed 2 outer stone walls in the bedroom (approx. 18m2 total). Since winter temperatures can reach -20C I am wondering whether it would be a good idea to insulate the external surface of the walls (eg 5cm AAC), or is 50cm thickness of stone (no cavity) sufficient insulation in itself. Or maybe 10cm ACC or polyurethane squares would be advisable? Maybe exposing walls will make the room too difficult to heat in winter and I am mad to consider it at all, and should insulate the walls on the inside! The lower third of the longer wall is underground, too. The builders have dug an external drainage trench and laid a plastic membrane against the external surface. I am wondering if it might be worth laying insulation (eg polyurethane squares) against the membrane, but am assuming that earth plus waterproof membrane is sufficient?

Any ideas much appreciated...

Heat Loss Calcs and Air Changes

Leo — Fri, 18 May 2007 09:12:21 +0100

I'm in the process of measuring my house to do heat loss calculations throughout. I haven't done this before and a couple of things have struck me:

All the sources I've seen on this give air change figures that appear to be taken 'as standard' from I don't know where. This may be fine dealing with new build where there is design intention for specific rooms to have specific ventillation rates, but is there some way I can make a more informed estimate for the rooms in my 1880s house?

Further to this, a number of rooms on the ground floor have been knocked through at some point. This includes open plan access into a glass-roofed kitchen extension, that I'm guessing wouldn't pass regs today. Airflow is therefore hugely important in working out where all the heat is going. Rather than treat this interconnected area all as one room (which it isn't) It seems sensible to treat the regions as separate rooms. This would also allow me to model what happens if I re-partition them in various ways, as well as telling me if the existing rads are sized correctly for the current layout. But how do I work out air changes based on the size of the openings between them?

recycling warm air

geoffnet — Tue, 29 May 2007 18:06:05 +0100

We virtually live in a kitchen with a high (11ft6") ceiling. I'm fed up with forking out to heat the light bulbs. Any suggestions for a warm air recycling system that won't look a disaster, make a lot of noise? I'm sorry if this is a well trodden path, but I can't find a reference to it in past discussions.

Water Heater?

mybarnconversion — Wed, 30 May 2007 18:56:55 +0100

I am installing a ground source heat pump & underfloor heating with secondary heating provided by a multi-fuel burner for the depths of winter. That obviously leaves me with a gap in providing hot water for washing etc. I don't want to rely on the multi / wood burner for hot water as that's a sweaty solution in Summer & mains gas is not an option ... what should I do that is cost effective & what are the ballpark costs for your solution?

Opinions please?

Replacing old floorboarding and joists.

triniquint — Mon, 21 May 2007 06:07:58 +0100

I have a small, semi-detached bungalow in which the wooden floors feel as if they need strengthening. There is a sort of slight spring to them, and they donâ€™t â€˜feelâ€™ too strong.
Recently we had bedroom furniture built by a carpenter, and he went through the floor in the corner by the outside wall and next door, when a joist simply gave up through rot. Though he replaced this joist, and one other, and then laminated the bedroom floor, as I walk along the window wall towards the corner where he fell through the floor (where our built-in wardrobe now is), the floor creaks and squeaks.

When transiting the living room â€“ which has the front door entering into it, and is a high traffic area â€“ the floor also makes me feel that if my son and I had to jump up and down hard, we would probably crash through that, too.

We also get slugs inside the house, leaving silver trails, which I understand is also a sign of damp. (I canâ€™t believe they live underneath the house on the solum area, but perhaps get into this under floor area via airbricks, or whatever.

I think the entire floor area of the house i.e. hall, living room, and bedroom, requires ripping up, damp-proofing, central heating pipes clad, brand new joists put in (with PVC at ends where they go into the brickwork), possible additional air bricks to improve air flow. Only when this is done, can I then lay new timber flooring â€“ but before laying the actual boards down, I need to know what membrane, if any, I can lay over the joists, and under the boards, so as to seal my living areas off from whatever is underneath.

My tentative plan is to simply empty one room (living room), take up the carpet and underlay, expose the floorboards, remove skirting boards, crowbar up the old floorboards, drop down into the under floor area, remove the joists, and simply leave a large, smelly, open hole space where the living room floor was.

I then want to inspect this i.e. check airbricks have good air flow; that the airbricks are into ducting that passes from the front of the house, through the cavity, and into the under floor area. I donâ€™t want airbricks that simply replace a brick from the wall, and allow air to go through this and vanish into the cavity. The air needs to be directed past the cavity and into the under floor area.

I then want to check all central heating piping is supported, lagged, and not leaking â€“ but lagged with what? Wrapped in Hessian, or polystyrene tubing?

Having done this I want to clear any rubble, detritus, etc from the ground, and check for any sleeper walls. Then check for puddles.

I would like to damp proof this solum area completely â€“ I believe we are getting damp in there from the clay soil â€“ and only once this has been done to my satisfaction, do I ant to renew the joists and flooring, as well as strengthening the floor by using noggins between the joists.

I have been telling my wife this needs doing, but she refuses to countenance it, believing the upheaval will be too much. I believe I can do it in no more than a couple of days â€“ provided I plan accordingly.

I donâ€™t simply want to tear up the old floorboards/joists, and replace with new, and bang them down to hide whatâ€™s underneath. I want a dry under floor area, and the job to be done properly â€“ but need advice.

Whilst reasonably competent at DIY, this is a major undertaking which I am a little frightened of. Once I have started, then I will be compelled to finish it, and if I make an mess of it, Iâ€™ll wish Iâ€™d never have started, and could lose money unnecessarily. I am loathe to call in builders due to cost, and not being 100% certain they donâ€™t cut corners.

Any advise or ideas would be very helpful.

Can existing houses ever be carbon neutral?

MH — Sun, 15 Apr 2007 18:40:23 +0100

Hi,

I was just wondering could the existing housing stock ever be carbon neutral using micro renewables such as Wind turbines and Pvs. The reason I ask is the SD Commission has a stat that 60% of our energy in homes are consumed in space and water heating which uses natural gas in most places so how could just a wind turbine or Pv ever replace the heating unless you change the whole heating system.

I know Solar water heating could help reduce this burdern and the above could try and reduce the electrical needs but I always had the idea that you only needed one microgeneration form. As I've conducted my research for my dissertation it seems clear you need a combination that suits your particular home.

Please correct me if I'm missing the obvious!

By the way could I also PLEASE ask people with experience or educated on renewable energy/microgeneartion etc to please spare a couple of mins to fill a questionnaire http://www.smart-survey.co.uk/v.asp?i=1679tjjpu
I only need at least 3 more responses to complete my research as it requires input from those in the know.

Thanks....I look forward to your replies.:bigsmile:

Mohammad.

Loft converter recommendation

Ads — Thu, 10 May 2007 09:36:17 +0100

We shortly aim to convert the loft in our 1930s house. The problem we have found is that most of the companies have minimal understanding of green/sustainable issues. Can anyone recommend any companies in the Midlands who ARE aware of what we would consider to be sensible building criteria for such a job?

High-quality secondary glazing

Nick Parsons — Fri, 04 May 2007 22:31:20 +0100

A customer of mine is looking for high-quality secondary glazing (got Victorian sliding sashes which want saving) - lives in Yorkshire. Anyone got any recommendations? Really really don't like plastic. As I suppose we shouldn't 'recommend' on here, by all means reply to me directly at nickDOTparsons@syecDOTcoDOTuk.

Thanks in anticipation.

Nick

DG units in new or existing sash windowcases

fostertom — Sun, 01 Apr 2007 15:50:25 +0100

From http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/forum/index2.php?DATEIN=tpc_hnovqhocr_1163970597&LP=true

>brand new sashes can be fitted within existing sash windowcases, allowing optimum-thickness (24mm, with 16mm airgap) DG units in best-practice deep rebates using dry glazing tapes, rather than bedding in mastic (which is death to dg units).

New sashes can be 56mm or more deep, in place of the usual 44mm. The bit that runs in the frame remains 44dp; extra depth spreads inboard and outboard within the depth of the staff bead and the fixed outer facing (whatever that's called); it's surprisingly unnoticeable. The sightline width remains 44mm, as normal.

The sashes are glazed-in, not glazed-out. The normal bevelled putty profile is reproduced as part of the outboard rebate platform. Inboard there's a timber bead incorporating the usual mould shape. Hell, difficult to describe. Anyone who wants, I'll post a drawing - email me at info at space-and-light dot co dot uk. I've failed to send same to 2 people who've requested same previously - I will do it, promise.

Sash weights will have to be doubled in weight, to counterbalance 2 panes instead of one (the timber weight is negligible compared with the glass)<

Here at last is the detail - hope it works here: http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c301/fostertom/Waterheadwindows.jpg

It shows newbuild sash windowcase but such sashes *can* also be fitted into existing windowcases, with a stepped-edge to the sash - I'd describe further if nec.

Lime plaster as an air barrier

Terry — Thu, 15 Mar 2007 10:41:53 +0000

Threads on the old forum indicate that cement render is an effective air barrier when trying to achieve air tightness.
Would this apply to lime render as well and how would it compare with cement render?
Does anybody have any data to quantify how effective these renders are as an air barrier?

unsealed solum.

westies2803 — Sat, 05 May 2007 19:14:03 +0100

Hi everyone,
I'm in the process of purchasing my first older property, However the survey has flagged up the above problem amongst others. What I need to know is how deep do I have to go down before back filling with hardcore, sand, waterproof membrane then concrete? Any help you guys can give me will be really appreciated.

Heat Pumps, Wood Burners, Underfloor Heating and Solar Hot Water

moogaloo — Tue, 10 Apr 2007 16:20:44 +0100

I have just purchased a new house (which is currently being rewired) and as I have not moved in at the moment and all floor coverings are in I am getting wet underfloor heating installed under the floor. The house currently has a newish condensing boiler.

I am planning on getting solar hot water system installed and a couple of wood burning stoves in the two main downstairs rooms.

I am also considering an Air Source Heat Pump to drive the underfloor heating leaving the condensing boiler to top up any lack of solar heating in the water tank.

Other considerations might be a Thermal Store that could be topped up by Solar/wood burning stove back boiler/heat pump.

The question is which way to go? The wood burning stoves will be primarily decorative, so I am quite happy to leave them out of the equation and any time I do use them, the rest of the heating system should not work so hard.

So any advice here? Which direction should I go in? What should I look at?

Also can anyone give me any idea of how much an Air Source Heat Pump for a 3 bed semi would cost including installation (Ball Park)?

Cheers

Chris

Low Energy Bathroom Lighting

moogaloo — Thu, 29 Mar 2007 13:04:01 +0100

I am about to move into a 1930's house and am planning on gradually greening the property. My inital tasks are to get the house rewired as well as some timber, damp and structural work. Then the next two targets are likely to be the Bathroom and Kitchen.

So as I am getting the house rewired, I need to start thinking about lighting. For most rooms it is a simlpe case of puting normal energy saving light bulbs in. But what should I do in the Bathroom?

Halogen is better than normal lightbulbs but not as effecient as energy savers, LED looks promising but a lot of LED stuff does not allow you to replace the bulb, I have also heard talk of the need for an LED control box?

Any advice experience or suggestions in this area would be greatfully appreciated?

Loft Insulation with shallow depth

moogaloo — Sun, 22 Apr 2007 19:11:48 +0100

I need to insulate my loft and it need to be to 270 cm or equivelant as I am applying for a grant. The trouble is I want my loft to be a usable storage place and therefore want to board over the insulation.

I gather that multifoil does not do the business and therefore wondered if there was any other super duper alternative that could be equivelant to 270 cm without being 270cm if you get my meaning?

One idea I had was can loft boards themselves be made up of an insulating material with something thiner underneather them?

Opportunity to renovate an old building

ian — Sat, 17 Mar 2007 21:36:40 +0000

Hi, I am currently working doing day to day maintenance at quite an old building in Birmingham city centre. It's actually a collection of buildings - a cottage and 2 warehouses combined. The building is owned and run by Birminghams local Friends of the Earth group. It's kind of a community centre for environmentalists who are very interested in applying some green building in practice.

Okay here's my question to the forum.

We are in need of some fairly large building repairs but have neglected to plan long-term for this(naughty naughty). So not wishing to miss any golden opportunities is anybody available to quote or give some advice on the following 2 jobs

1 - New flat roof (70 Msq)
My thoughts on this were - EPDM membrane, polyurethane insulation, and maybe sedum/turf on top
Our budget will be limited and I'm unsure as to whether any local roofers will be able to do the sedum/turf option
2 - External cladding and insulation of an exterior wall. (100Msq, only 2 windows on upper floor)
Again polyurethane then maybe some welsh grown red cedar cladding. This wall has no pointing and is suffering from damp. About 20 yrs ago an adjoining warehouse/factory was demolished whic was originally built against it.

Pictures are provided in the following link.
http://iansengineeringpage.org.uk/pics/roof/roof.html
http://www.birminghamfoe.org.uk/warehouse.htm

Also if anybody is passing through Birmingham city centre please feel free to pop in and check out our place.
There's a vegetarian restaurant, wholefood shop, bike shop, meeting room for hire and more - all only 5 minutes walk from New St station.

I have looked through a copy of the green building bible( I think it was called that - directory for green builders) but there was nobody in Birmingham and few people in the Midlands it seemed.

Thanks - Ian Moore

Floor Covering on top of Underfloor Heating

moogaloo — Mon, 16 Apr 2007 13:10:56 +0100

I am currently having underfloor heating installed in my house. The type of underfloor is the one that sits on top of floor boards and you then need to put a thin covering on top. My underfloor guy suggests something like laminate or floor tiles would be good as they are not too insulating and relatively thin.

I do like the idea of a wood or tile finish as I have a vomitting cat, but wondered what else was out there beyone laminate, perhaps something greener?

Loft Insulation - What should we go for?

skier-hughes — Sun, 04 Feb 2007 20:50:09 +0000

I need to add extra insulation to our house, should I be looking at something like Thermafleece, ie going for the totally natural product? Or just plain old everyday insualtion material?

Our house is very old, over 600 years in places.

The roof area is large, so to take our meagre amount up to 10" we'd be spending a fortune on thermafleece, whereas we could get grant aided, fitted normal insulation.

Should I let my heart rule my head or let my wallet rule this time?

Is one any better than the other?
Why?
How?

Graham

Wall and floor insulation - ideas

sdsteinhardt — Fri, 30 Mar 2007 20:13:16 +0100

I am about to move into a Victorian terraced house and am planning on doing a fair amount of renovation. We'll be putting up a few stud walls and moving the bathroom upstairs. We want to make the house as thermally efficient and as acoustically insulated as possible but need to do so as cheaply as possible. Any ideas and tips would be very gratefully received but our main questions are whether, in addition to copious loft insulation, there was something we could use to fill the new stud walls or a material for under the plasterboard. Also can anyone suggest the best thing to use to clad the party walls before they are skimmed to protect our neighbours from our noise? (We've thought about using rockliner). Also, we're planning on tiling a fairly large area of floor downstairs (kitchen / utility / toilet) and since it is going to need some ply over the floorboards, is there anything more thermally efficient to tile onto, ideally instead of the ply, or otherwise under it? Our budget won't stretch to under floor heating!

Secondary glazing/double glazing

ecoworrier — Wed, 21 Feb 2007 21:34:28 +0000

I would like to hear your thoughts.
In situations were replacing existing window units is not ideal or necessary ie. listed building.
Is it beneficial to have secondary double glazing or would single glazed units be sufficient?
Does the gap between the panes matter (when its more than 16mm), say as much as 100mm?

Bathroom Lighting

moogaloo — Thu, 29 Mar 2007 12:58:16 +0100

Weatherproofing render

ANGAND — Thu, 22 Feb 2007 07:56:12 +0000

Our old Welsh stone farmhouse was â€˜modernisedâ€™ and cement rough rendered around 16 years ago. Though the render is largely in good condition there are a few hairline cracks and we are now getting patches of penetrating damp showing as mould, flaking paint and salt efflorescence on internal walls.

Chipping off the render and starting again is not an option unfortunately. So we are considering other ways to rectify the situation. Weâ€™ve heard about a microporous product called Andura (used by many companies that advertise render repair and restoration) and Beeckâ€™s silicate paints.

Can anyone advise us or share their experience? The walls are 65cm thick stone/rubble fill so inserting aeration bricks may not be possible.

thanks.

Verges and undercloaks

Julian — Fri, 23 Mar 2007 11:29:16 +0000

This sort of overlaps with my Tyvek question in products.
Timber frame extension, roof trusses at 600 centres, reclaimed concrete double roman 50's, breather membrane.
1. I want to use cloaked verge tiles - it seems sensible to avoid wet verges. But I don't see that many cloaked verges and wondered why? Anyone have any views on them?

2.If I do use cloaked verge tiles could I use 150mm strips of WBP as an undercloak instead of the asbestos/cement type? I would guess there maybe less condesation risk from a piece of WBP than from a cement/asbestos undercloak.

3. Plastic eaves protectors & plastic felt supports - is there an alternative or are they essential? All the plastic fittings are expensive. The existing roof has bitumen felt down over the fascia board - it's been there for years without miles of plastic and without any obvious deterioration.

Thanks
Julian

Rented property ?

Brian Beney — Tue, 20 Feb 2007 08:30:33 +0000

Walking from the railway station to an appointment I passed some 200 terraced/semi-detached dwellings of which 5 appeared to have received any attention ie. window /glazing/door replacement. On enquiring I was told it was nearly all rented ,probably from a single landlord. An aquaintance of mine owns huge numbers of properties in the southeast and when quizzed about upgrading them to make them more energy efficient intimated that as he would not be paying the fuel bills it was of no interest to him. If the local authority got involved he would find a way of getting every grant available and the rent would go up accordingly. I don't know the % of rented property over the whole country ; but I think we could have a problem !?

Loft insulation...but different

Katymac — Tue, 06 Feb 2007 18:26:46 +0000

DH & I wants to extend into our loft in the near future (1 or 2 yrs)......But we have about 6 inches in insulation up there

I am insistant that we have more - he doesn't want to put more down for it to be ripped up is 18m time

Can we insulate the roof rather than the floor - or will that have no value??

If we can....how??

Straw Bales??

Katymac — Wed, 31 Jan 2007 19:20:18 +0000

After my diasaterous news about the nursery I need to think cost cutting

Would straw bales be a cost effective way of insulationg my walls

Can I put them outside the concrete block walls (to save space)

How do I finish them off? Render?

How do I do the edges for windows/doors/roof?

Or are straw bales expensive?

Part L1B, Building Regs

Nick Parsons — Sat, 17 Feb 2007 15:27:50 +0000

I have been asked to quote for carry out insulated dry-lining to parts of a house. My reading of Part L1B is that, where I am carrying out major works to a 'thermal element', I should seek to meet new-build U values. Although I would be delighted to achive these in most circumstances, in this specific case it would significantly narrow 2 staircases and a ground floor WC. Is there an exemption in such cases? The (eps) board I propose to use would achieve a U value of about 0.55 as opposed to 0.3. Also can I submit a Building Notice for these (relatively minor) works, rather than a full application?

Any comments gratefully received. Thanks, Nick

External insulation

Katymac — Mon, 12 Feb 2007 21:24:04 +0000

I am trying to get together some accurate costings for my diasaster of a project (as it seems at the moment)

The concrete blocks will need rendering so the idea is to insulate externally and then render

So far my options appear to be
Straw bales (no idea of cost)
Herakith boards (Â£67K?? - I must have it wrong:cry:)
Difflum boards (even more expensive)

Are they more conventional methods?

PS really don't have a clue do I?

Condensation on inside of conservatory roof

Katymac — Fri, 09 Feb 2007 15:55:02 +0000

Is there a short term solution

I know I need to replace the roofing panels - but can I do anything in the meantime

I have thought about

Foil on the ceiling
paint the ceiling
polystyrene tiles on the ceiling

Any other ideas?:sad:

How tight is tight? ( all discussion in m3/h/m2 @ 50Pa )

tony — Wed, 31 Jan 2007 22:24:26 +0000

Ok then how tight in air leakage numbers is tight? How much air leakage should a new house be allowed?

Would you accept a window open all the time? a door? both halves of a patio door not there all winter?