Green Building Forum - All Discussions Tue, 19 Dec 2023 08:47:32 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 Rounded Developments looking for board members http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=519 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=519 Sun, 29 Jul 2007 18:37:23 +0100 sallyh
They are a small organisation at present, but have big ideas and want to develop the capacity of the organisation to deliver them. They are looking to widen the set of skills and experiences within the board. There are currently six members on the board but we wish to increase this to about 10 in due course. Our structure is very flexible and dynamic and this enables us to respond quickly to demands and provide flexible delivery.

They have a number of very promising projects in the pipeline inc. the development of an Innovation Park in Cardiff (in partnership with BRE and a local charity) and are a partner in developing new unfired cementitious bricks and blocks with the University of Glamorgan. They also provide goods and services in support of sustainable building (we run a small shop and provide consultation services) from our Sustainable Building Centre in Splott, Cardiff.

They are looking for committed people with the skills, vision and enthusiasm to make sustainable building happen for all; from the DIYer to the mainstream builder. We are especially interested in people from: construction trades and professions; training and education; finance; research; and social enterprises.

If you know of anyone who might be interested in becoming involved they would appreciate a call. If you yourself cannot provide time maybe you have networks that can be contacted in order to spread this request to a wider audience.

Please visit their website in order to gain a bit more information about RDE and what it is doing. http://www.rounded-developments.org.uk
Tel 029 2040 3399]]>
Cavity Wall Insulation AND Foam-backed blocks? http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=667 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=667 Mon, 17 Sep 2007 20:08:40 +0100 yorkshirerob More to the point is there any problem with the combination?
Can't find answer anywhere - getting different stories from builder/plumber/wall insulation company !!
:cry:]]>
Insulation under suspended floors http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=613 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=613 Thu, 30 Aug 2007 07:07:04 +0100 OIMO
We have decided to top up our loft insulation and also insulate under the two reception room suspended floors. The front reception room is above a cellar that is typically in the temperature range 8C-12C and has two grilled ventilation 'windows'. The positive side of this is that access from below is available, however the ceiling of the cellar is lath and plaster and damaged in some places and sagging in others. I suspect the easiest way to do this would be remove the lath and plaster, insert some mineral wool batts and replace the ceiling with a plaster board of some sort, perhaps a damp tolerant one? However I am not keen on mineral wool so can anyone suggest an alternative solution?

The second reception room also has a cellar beneath it with three ventilation bricks into it, however the access has been bricked up so access from beneath the floor is not an option. Also before this cellar was sealed they nailed a canvas under all of the floor presumably to try and reduce drafts (with only limited success I have to say). Rather than take up all the original floorboards is it possible to drill each one and blow some insulation in on top of the canvas?

In both of these situations I expect the insulation will come into contact with the walls at each end of the joists, so will damp be an issue and if so does that rule out most of the 'natural' insulations?]]>
VAT on Green 'garden room' http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=654 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=654 Wed, 12 Sep 2007 16:51:47 +0100 Nick Parsons
I am about to build an architect-designed highly-spec'd timber-framed Garden Room for a client. It's only 15+ sq m, and to all intents and purposes it is another room to the house - it just happens to be 3m away. HMRC advise me as follows:

"....from the details provided, I can advise you that the relevant
information can be found in public notice 708 which deals with various
aspects for VAT purposes of building and construction. Therefore, see
comprehensive guidance at section 3 for the basic conditions when a new
building is being constructed.

Furthermore, you will note that although this will be a new build, it
does not meet any of the specific criteria at paragraph 3.2.1 to qualify
for the zero rate. In fact, because it is designed to be a separate
building from the main dwelling, despite increasing the living area, it
falls under the examples at paragraph 3.2.2 of the same notice.
Therefore, if this project does not meet any other criteria, all labour
and materials will be liable to VAT at the relevant rate. Additionally,
VAT would only be recoverable under the DIY builders and converters
scheme as per public notice 719..." (....which states that as it's not a relevant domestic building - a house - it's not eligible for the scheme! So my client has to pay VAT on the lot.

Any thoughts, comments, experience, anecdotal evidence?

Thanks,

Nick]]>
BFF Spring 2007 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=665 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=665 Sun, 16 Sep 2007 19:20:01 +0100 GBP-Keith
This may be the last of the free pdf's as we are thinking of introducing an online subscription.

http://www.buildingforafuture.co.uk/spring07/index.php

I'm looking for about 20 volunteers to test an online version and comment. Send me an e-mail if you are interested please.

PS. Don't panic if you are a subscriber because the latest Green building mag is coming out in the post on about 20th September. About ten days late as we have changed our printer so fingers crossed.]]>
Zero carbon versus carbon neutral http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=656 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=656 Thu, 13 Sep 2007 15:20:27 +0100 fostertom "I think there is some confusion amongst the public about the difference between 'carbon neutral' and 'zero carbon'." continues John ...............
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c301/fostertom/Millwoodcarbon-neutral.jpg
"To achieve carbon neutral status, all Coppice Mews homes will be assessed by The Carbon Neutral Company to determine their carbon footprint. Investment in sustainable projects, such as wind farms, will then offset their annual carbon emissions. MilIwood Homes will ensure that construction is carbon neutral and will then buy ‘carbon credits’ for the first year after the buyer moves in, offering purchasers the option to carry on the good work for life."]]>
Should we all live in Travel Lodges? http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=662 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=662 Fri, 14 Sep 2007 12:52:59 +0100 tony Belt and Braces -- examples of wastefulness http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=663 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=663 Sun, 16 Sep 2007 09:22:22 +0100 tony
Tony said,
In the days when we first started to use wire ropes for lifting loads we used to pass the rope through an eye or cleat and fix it back to itself with a wire rope grip (a u-bolt with a flange) The trailing free end of the rope would be tied onto the rope to keep it out of the way. This worked well but after a couple of mishaps where the u-bolts were not inspected and they either were damaged or worked loose through overloading it was decided to use two wire rope grips should be used in case one failed between inspections. No problems ever occurred but someone eventually decided that three would be better than two and this was common safe practice for many years. That was until some safety manager in an office saw a picture and thought that we should halve the risk by using SIX; this became law!

How much of this kind of thinking is wasteful of resources without adding benefit?
____________________________________________________________________________________________
Rimu Homes replied,
Loads and loads and loads,

I just got off the phone with our engineer to tell him we can't source C24 219 x 44 at short notice, in the lengths he specified for a project. I asked if we can use 219 x 38 instead and he said that would be fine. I can't remember how many times I have had similar conversations over the years. Usually with engineers.

The term 'over-engineered' is a pet hate of mine as engineering is about accuracy. In my opinion if an engineer feels he has to over specify he should consider a different career.
The culture of over ordering of materials is another pet hate.
_____________________________________________________________________________
biff came in with:

3

Mathematician: the integer greater than 2 and less than 4

Physicist: a value greater than 2.5 and less than or equal to 3.5

Engineer: three's three but we'll call it ten to be on the safe side.
__________________________________________________________________________________________--
Chris Wardle quoted
I'm afraid it is a sign if times. Everyone is so worried about getting sued that they err on the side of caution every time.

What I think engineers, building inspectors etc overlook is the fact that the manufacturers and the people who write the standards that we all work to have already allowed for a margin of safety so there is no need to add your own on top.

As for the Health and Safety fascists, with that lot it is all about having a piece of paper to say you have considered the risks etc. They never check whether policies are being implemented until someone comes a cropper, then the finger pointing starts and new legislation follows.

I'd like to live in a country where you are allowed to take a few risks and you live with the consequences of your actions. Make all these regulations into guidance that you can choose to follow or not. Most people do the right thing anyway, unless the "right thing" is an affront to common sense, and those that don't ignore regulations in any case. They serve no purpose other than to reduce the productivity of the economy.]]>
Damp-proofing http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=119 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=119 Mon, 19 Mar 2007 19:26:52 +0000 marionhaste
The previous owners 'tanked' the room using polythene sheeting as a membrane then plasterboard built on a wooden frame.

Inevitably, there is damp coming through - black mildew, by the looks of it. We think the membrane is partially to blame for this, as the brick retaining wall behind it cannot 'breathe'. Indeed, since we made a hole in the membrane, the smell of damp appears to have reduced.

Do forum members have any suggestions as to how we could deal with this in an eco-friendly way?

Apologies if this has been discussed before - I did try to plough through the old forum, but couldn't find anything relevant. Any advice very gratefully received.

Marion]]>
Fascinating history of the Vapour Barrier + construction idea http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=624 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=624 Sun, 02 Sep 2007 20:53:10 +0100 tomsusweb
http://www.housebuildersupdate.co.uk/2007/07/little-known-history-of-vapour-barrier.html

I'd be interested in forum members thoughts - especially as there still seems to be a lot of debate on this forum about breathing wall timber frame construction as described in the Whole House Book and advocated by Warmcel. (e.g. see here: http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=532&page=2 )

I'm about to embark on a self funded new build in Ireland. Building control and codes are a non-issue for me, so I'm contemplating something radical. A timber frame house with electric fan assisted passive stack ventilation to remove moisture laden air from all rooms. Wall construction (inside to out): sasmox boards on 6x2 studs with sheeps wool insulation, then 100mm tektalan e21 magnesite wood wool insulation boards and then a render of waterproof rein fibre cement on a mesh (rein fibres and mesh will prevent cracking).

Conventional wisdom says this is madness.

My logic suggests that it will be super insulated, the studs will be warm - hence no due point on them, and internal most moisture will be moved by the ventilation. Obviously I will need to carefully keep an eye on the rein fibre render, but unless water is pouring in from the outside, the timber is 100mm away and should be safe. The advantages of taking this route are simplicity, cost effectiveness and super insulation. The danger according to conventional wisdom is that the timber will rot. I don't think it will.

More info on tektalan insulation boards is here:

http://www.skanda-uk.com/heraklithProducts.htm

More info on Rein fibre cement which I have used in a 7mm coat to create waterproof bird baths that haven't cracked in years:

http://www.koicymru.co.uk/const9c.htm

http://koicymru.co.uk/q&a7.htm

I'm almost tempted to try the construction as an experiment. The thoughts of the forum are very welcome!

(This is my first post - I've been a long time lurker - many thanks for all the insights on the forums.)]]>
A Life Without Renewables http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=649 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=649 Mon, 10 Sep 2007 15:16:28 +0100 Neil Adam Hall
Cyril Sweett's 'Cost Review of the Code for Sustainable Homes' tells us that CSH minimum performance standard for energy efficiency at Level 3 is achievable [under certain dwelling types] without the need to integrate renewable energy technology into house design. However there is the need to integrate WHMVS into the design.

Assume a property were to be built which would not be affected by the Merton Rule or FALP, etc... and therefore would not require renewable energy technologies to displace a % of the dwellings CO2 emission rating.

Is it practical to expect a building to meet CSH Level 3 energy efficiency standard without the need to integrate renewable energy technologies into the building design? What U-values [walls, floor, roof and windows] and level of air tightness would be required in order to achieve this?

And is achieving CSH Level 3 energy efficiency standard without renewables a cost effective option? Or should we forget thermal efficiency and install oversized boimass boiler's in every house to meet these Code requirements?]]>
Hazardous waste --------- plasterboard!! http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=643 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=643 Fri, 07 Sep 2007 12:53:21 +0100 tony
Can anyone throw any light on why it could be considered a problem? ( I know we don't like plasterboard but it is pretty difficult for builders to avoid)]]>
Floor boarding and not concrete for ground floor - design detail needed http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=655 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=655 Wed, 12 Sep 2007 21:56:41 +0100 Planks Building With Wood conference, Exeter, 18 September http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=627 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=627 Tue, 04 Sep 2007 08:25:57 +0100 Gareth Walton (DSBI) The role of timber in improving the sustainability of the built environment
18 September 2007 10am-4.30pm
The Peter Chalk Centre, University of Exeter

A major one-day conference looking at the use of timber in the built environment, and in particular the positive role timber can play in improving the sustainability of buildings.

The conference will feature:

* Presentations from the architects and engineers behind some of Europe’s most stunning timber buildings, demonstrating how the use of timber in buildings is evolving in ways that are both very exciting and highly efficient.

* A wide selection of CPD seminars covering issues such as design, procurement and sourcing, affordable housing, the latest engineered timber products, sustainability and zero carbon buildings and the quality and quantity of timber available in the South West.

* An interactive session focusing on a vision for the future for timber use in the region and further afield, kicked-off by an inspiring and thought-provoking presentation by acclaimed award-winning designer Wayne Hemingway.

* Trade stands covering timber framing, wood energy, timber flooring, doors and windows, timber cladding and shingles, engineered timber products such as glulam and SIPS, timber producers and millers, architects and designers and sustainable construction.

* The stunning photographic exhibition Inspiring Futures - European Timber Architecture for the 21st Century, featuring twelve of the most inspirational timber buildings in Europe.

This conference will both inform and inspire delegates – clearly showing how timber can be used to deliver modern buildings that are strikingly beautiful and highly sustainable.

If you’re involved in designing, specifying, constructing or refurbishing buildings, this conference is not to be missed.

It will be of interest to:

* Architects and designers
* Quantity Surveyors and specifiers
* Builders and Developers
* Clients and commissioners
* Councillors and Politicians
* Local authority officers
* Structural engineers and other building professionals
* Housing enablers
* RSLs and Housing Associations

This event may be accepted as five hours towards your CPD requirements.

Cost: Remaining places available at half price - £75 (+VAT) instead of £150 (+VAT)
To book a half price ticket contact Julie Bayliss at South West Forest on
01409 221896 & quote ref BWW1809

For further information please see the conference brochure at www.sustainablebuild.org/documents/BuildingwithWoodbrochure.pdf or contact Julie Bayliss at South West Forest on julie.bayliss@devon.gov.uk or 01409 221896.

The Building with Wood conference is organised by Woodfair South West and the Centre for Contemporary Art and the Natural World (CCANW), with valuable support from the Devon Sustainable Building Initiative (DSBI), the Devon Strategic Housing Group and representatives from the architectural and building industries

To find out more about the organisers:
Woodfair South West www.woodfairsouthwest.co.uk
Centre for Contemporary Art and the Natural World (CCANW) www.ccanw.co.uk
Devon Strategic Housing Group www.dshg.org.uk
Devon Sustainable Building Initiative (DSBI) www.sustainablebuild.org]]>
DHW (solar/central heating) controller advice http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=476 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=476 Sun, 15 Jul 2007 20:17:13 +0100 DIY bob
To my mind the system is simple, and depends heavily on stratification[2]. The cylinder was made by McDonald engineers[3] (NB the choice to use them was arbitary other suppliers were willing to provide this service) it involves 4 exchanges and an immersion heater. The (pressurised) solar circuit is in two layers with two further exchanges (vented) for central heating and the wood stove. The top 100litres is used for domestic hot water (DHW) and the remaining is either pre-heat or store depending on how you look at it (or the time of year).

In summer the cylinder works (well) by the solar doing what it can, the upper layer is set to 60degrees and what sun is left is used to heat the rest. The resol controller also controls an immersion heater to heat the DHW (top 100l) to 47degrees if the tempriture is below 43. All this operation works well and the gravity fed shower is one of the best I have experienced, we have been running this since mid April. I don't worry about legionella because the DHW temprature exceeds 50 often enough and I haven't had a dead leg since I was in high school.

In winter I wish to use the wood stove, this heats all but about 50l. It is based on a simple gravity fed, vented (cylinder <-> burnoff radiator <-> stove) circuit. This avoids the need for a neutraliser. The tricky bit is the pumped central heating (CH) circuit which extracts heat from the cylinder. The CH exchange sits above the wood stove exchange but below the DHW. In normal operation the central heating will be taking out of the cylinder what the stove is putting in.

There is a function of the controller that I am using which will burn off surplus energy for a period of time. I.e. 6am-10pm if the cylinder temprature (at the CH exchange level) exceeds 60degrees pump the central heating; if temp. drops below 55 stop the pump. This means that at 10pm, when we go to bed, we store the unused heat in the cylinder. At 6am when the stove is cold there is some stored heat to knock the chill out of the house. The controller function which is capable of this is currently being used to turn the immersion heater on.

What I would like to do is turn the central heating on as part of a overheat function say at 95degrees reguardless of time of day or year. I would also like to avoid paying for a seperate immersion heater controller. I have contacted the supplier...again..

Cheers,

[1]http://www.resol.de/en/english.shtml
[2]http://www.veryefficientheating.co.uk/solar/article2.htm
[3]http://www.mcdonald-engineers.com/]]>
Your ideas for my new build in the Scottish Highlands http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=610 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=610 Wed, 29 Aug 2007 19:11:20 +0100 tomlin Standard construction around here seems to be 100mm concrete block exterior with render, 50mm cavity and 150mm timber frame. Recent builds seem to have used 150mm frametherm insulation in the walls covered with foil backed plasterboard. I intend to build into the roofspace with attic trusses but have no idea how this would be best insulated.
I would like to incorporate a ground source heat pump if it falls within our budget, otherwise oil seems to be the next (but not very geen) alternative. No idea yet about windows/doors.

My question is ; Which area should I concentrate on to improve energy conservation - ie where will I get the best returns on investment ? Insulation, window/door spec/other ??

Thanks]]>
Wood burner stove connecting to oil combi boiler http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=652 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=652 Tue, 11 Sep 2007 18:45:09 +0100 MALCOLM
what i have is a sealed combi oil boiler (worcester 15/19) and a wood burning stove 12000 btu with back boiler (not connected at present)
14 rads over three floors connected on the main pipeing 22mm and rad fed on 15mm.
i was going to link the stove to the flow and return, using all the rads as heat leaks. some say no pump
others say a bridge pipe with the pump and a pipe stat so if the power go it wont blow up
as i feel when the stove is in full temp it still wont heat all rads but will help the oil
boiler and save fuel.

what am i missing or is it the simple
many thanks]]>
Heating for new build http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=646 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=646 Fri, 07 Sep 2007 21:48:43 +0100 John Clark
This is a very useful site, I've been reading it and getting ideas for some time, but I think it's time to ask directly for some assistance.

We're building a new timber frame house of about 150 sq m, it will be insulated to well above current requirements. We originally wanted ground source with underfloor heating but have been worried by conflicting advice given to us, and also think we'd have trouble installing it on our land which has quite a few trees, as well as being solid chalk a couple of feet down.

Air source was tempting for a short while but I don't like the noise factor, the large outside unit, the way it stops working if the temperature ever gets really cold.

My plan was then to install the underfloor but not connect it yet (maybe wait for air source heating to improve?). We'd have a couple of wood burning stoves, one with a back boiler to provide DHW, backed up by off peak immersion heater.

I then read about pellet stoves with back boilers and we're wondering whether this would be a better option. However we don't know anyone with pellet boilers/stoves and are concerned that it may be expensive to run, inflexible and also expensive to install. And who knows whether we'd even need it - in a well insulated house would the 2 stoves be sufficient?

Would this option work with underfloor heating? If so would we need a thermal store or something??

Trying to get information on these things is really difficult; it seems like we'd be pioneers if we used this technology. Or possibly idiots.

Any help, input etc would be most welcome from you experts out there.

Thanks,
John]]>
Wood Burning Stove Stuff http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=576 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=576 Sun, 19 Aug 2007 18:22:56 +0100 muzz


At the start of the summer ( what summer ? ) I removed our gas fire and installed a wood burning stove. We bought a few bags of seasoned wood locally just to see what the stove was like, it was great.

We have a combi boiler, no tank so were told we couldn't get a back boiler.

A local wood was recently thinned and we got four tonnes of mostly softwood for much cheapness. I loaned a chainsaw from my brother and bought a maul. We also bought a new shed so we could put all the wood in the old one.

OK OK, we are getting to the questiony bit :-)

I also have access to old whiskey barrels. The staves are perfect but a lot of the barrel ends have a water based paint on them. I am sure I have read that one should not burn painted wood in the stove.

Will the residues stick to the flue ? Is there a pollution question ?

I have tried out some of the non painted stuff and it's great.]]>
Cyprus http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=545 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=545 Wed, 08 Aug 2007 16:55:50 +0100 tony
Then I realised that no one insulated anything! never saw any insulation at all! Yet there were huge output radiators in rooms in the mountains (snow in winter).

Almost everyone had air cooling and yet no insulation. They did used to design for solar shading but not so much for new stuff.

No recycling. Plenty of litter and rubbish around.

The amounts of insulation we put it it was quite a culture shock to see none being used.

Oh yea and pretty much no planning control the whole place was just one big building site -- everyone seemed to a property developer. ( one was claiming green!!)]]>
Energy Saving Lightbulbs Quality http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=644 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=644 Fri, 07 Sep 2007 16:28:13 +0100 moogaloo
Now most of my lightbulbs are Bayonette pound-a-pop phillips variety (EST subsidised) from an online retailer. They come on to full brightness very quicky and are nearly comparible to the incadesent equivenlants.

I have a couple of small candles which are also fine and a daylight spiral bulb which is also fine.

However I have bought some GU10 and R50 CFLs and they where expenisve and are rubbish. If left for five minutes the light you get from them is fine, but they take 5 mins to warm up and the initial light is very dark.

How come some CFLs are so rubbish? I think people have the impression that CFLs are inferiour to incadesents and are therefore staying away?

Is there anyway I can find out which ones are the good ones?]]>
Insulation option with extension roof http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=648 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=648 Mon, 10 Sep 2007 08:42:05 +0100 John Pedersen
I am building an extension and have done the walls, and I have the rafters in place.

I have phenolic boards that will go across the rafters underneath, to deal with the cold bridging issue.

I have some YBS reflective breather foil which will go across the top of the rafters.

These items were available pretty cheap, which is why I am basing my insulation choice around them.

I want to completely fill between the rafters ( 200 mm) with glass/rockwool/cellulose - whatever. BCO has approved this plan.

I am quite keen to not be filling between the rafters from underneath, and am planning to fix the phenolic boards under the rafters with glue/big headed-clout nails so that I can put the between the rafters stuff in from above, onto the boards, before rolling the breather foil over the top. I have a few days of dry weather ahead...

I guess loose-fill stuff would be easiest to use, but I have read that settling undermines its performance.

Recommendations for material to use and whether to use loose-fill or batts would be very welcome,

Thanks,

John]]>
Replacement Driveway http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=612 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=612 Thu, 30 Aug 2007 06:54:04 +0100 OIMO
The crazy paving looks nasty, the tarmac to the pavement has sunk on one end and the paving slabs are loose having been driven over by various flat bed trucks etc during our renovation works. Having lifted one of the slabs I have discovered it is sitting on bare earth and it was seemingly just the cement mortar around the edges that was holding them in place. Now that this has started to break up in a few places water is getting under them and they are unstable.

Can anyone suggest a cost effective yet relatively green replacement drive? We have ruled out grass grid as we think it will look odd in front of a formal red-brick Victorian house and caged gravel too as we have a tiled hall floor that will not appreciate gravel getting walked in. We could easily put in a slope away from the house out onto the pavement and road, but would rather use SUDS of some sort. Two final points, our mains electricity comes in under the drive at a depth of around 12" and there is a cellar grate set in the drive immediately outside the front bay window.

Any suggestions and guideance gratefully received.]]>
Which Gas Boiler? http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=641 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=641 Fri, 07 Sep 2007 07:47:48 +0100 Mike George Mike]]> How to insulate and damp proof a shed? http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=645 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=645 Fri, 07 Sep 2007 19:51:01 +0100 nat I have just joined the forum and I am a novice DIYer.
I have a new summerhouse I want to use as my art studio. I need advice on how to insulate and dampproof it so that I can use it (almost?) all year round.
I have been told to use either polysterene or Celotex as insulating material.
In your experience what is best? Is there a big difference in heat retention?
For dampproofing, do I lay the damp proof sheet before the insulating material or after?
I am planning to cover the walls with tongue and groove cladding afterwards.

For the floor. any advice of what type of insulating material to use and "recipe" on how to do it (what order, how not to crush the layer of insulating material when one walks on it, etc...)?

A professional electrician will put power and lights in there, I am not that daring....

Thanks for any advice that will be very appreciated.

Nat]]>
Problem clients? http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=642 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=642 Fri, 07 Sep 2007 12:47:13 +0100 betty_tv
I am working on a new Channel 4 documentary series which explores the relationship between builders and their clients with the working title ''Dont Blame the Builder''. I have permission from the team to post on this forum and was wondering if anyone would like to get in touch regarding involvement in our programme?

The series is about the problems that can often arise on domestic building projects as a result of a breakdown of communication between clients and their builders. This is a common problem and can prove a real nightmare for both parties concerned. Unfortunately people are always blaming the builders but can it always be their fault? What about clients who have unrealistic demands, constantly change their minds or just can’t make a decision and don’t take your advice?

We’re looking for builders who are experiencing a breakdown in communication with the client on a current project and need some help to get it back on track. We will offer the services (for free) of an industry expert to work with the homeowners and the builders to help resolve any problems. The programme is a great opportunity to reach an amicable solution that gets everything running smoothly again for all concerned. The first two episodes reached a successful conclusion for both parties concerned and I am confident that we can achieve the same result the third time around.

If you are locked in a stand off with a client or are finding it difficult to cope with their constantly changing demands please contact me for an informal chat or email me details.

Fiona 0207 907 0869 or fiona.wilson@betty.co.uk]]>
Microgenlondon MSc research project. http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=638 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=638 Thu, 06 Sep 2007 16:02:51 +0100 AndrewM Thanks and Here is a copy of the email that I sent out:

UNIVERSITY OF SOUTHAMPTON
SCHOOL OF CIVIL ENGINEERING AND THE ENVIRONMENT

Microgenlondon - Renewable Energy Implementation into Business Buildings

Dear Sir/Madam,

I am emailing you to ask if you and any relevant colleagues could kindly fill in a questionnaire on the Greater London Authorities proposed strategy that is set out in the Further Alterations to the London Plan (FALP) for on site renewable energy implementation in commercial buildings in London. The FALP states that ‘Renewable energy is required through a 20% reduction in carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions, to be achieved by onsite renewable energy generation’ for all new developments in London.

The questionnaire is for an MSc dissertation project at the University of Southampton. The main aim of the study is to investigate perceptions of renewable energy technologies (R.E.T) as a whole, between job descriptions and how it can be implemented in the commercial sector to meet this 20% target. It should not take more than ten minutes to fill in and the study may provide information that will be of great interest to you and your company. I would be most grateful if could you forward this email on to any relevant colleagues in the fields of engineering, asset management, facility management, architects, planning officers and other relevant areas that are involved in developements.

The questionnaire and more background information on the project are available from the following website:

http://www.energy.soton.ac.uk/research/microgenlondon/

I would be very grateful if you could please return it as soon as possible, via email to: ajrm106@soton.ac.uk

Results will be made available on completion of the study in December at the same website address as above. Please contact me if you have any questions.

Thank you very much for your time and effort.

Yours Faithfully,

Andrew J. Moore

School of Civil Engineering and the Environment

Southampton University

Email: ajrm106@soton.ac.uk]]>
Sealing fireplace hearth (cob/concrete) http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=635 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=635 Wed, 05 Sep 2007 09:42:15 +0100 cornishben We've recently excavated an old stone/cob fireplace in our cottage which was hiding behind a thick 1960s concrete eyesore.. As it's an old cottage it doesn't have any kind of DPC and the construction is granite/earth on the lower half and cob on the upper half.

Hence, the backs/sides of the fireplace are granite/earth, which I have lime rendered. The hearth base was just earth/stone, which I have (perhaps not wisely) laid a 2-3inch concrete bed on.

We are now looking to lay some slate on this concrete but the concrete is damp and there seems to be dampness creeping up the plaster at the back/sides, up to 4-5inches high. I guess this is because basically its just earth underneath..

I'm wondering what I can do about this?!

Could I bitumen or damp proof the concrete base somehow, before laying the slates. Which may resolve the problem of a damp base, but if so, would i need to cut into the base of the sides to insert the DPC or something in order to stop the dampness rising up the sides?]]>
Site consumables http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=637 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=637 Thu, 06 Sep 2007 14:54:53 +0100 Jillf
I am currently seeking out site consumables that are eco friendly
I have done some searches but to little avail

looking for

cables ties - made of recycled plastic or eco equiv
latex gloves or equiv
Gaffer tape

many thanks for your help

best J]]>
LWA's (Light Weight Aggregates) for insulation? http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=629 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=629 Tue, 04 Sep 2007 11:48:15 +0100 Johan
They look like a very nice product to me. Needs to be a slab type floor though, but for a new build that's not really an issue.

I'm considering using one of them so I'd appreciate any input.]]>
Who makes or advises on the Approved Documents?? http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=628 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=628 Tue, 04 Sep 2007 10:54:49 +0100 Danb1203
my discussion topic basically describes my question.....

i'm basically after who advises on what information is published and / or who sets out new regulatory standards that we should meet??

Many thanks]]>
Insulating Suspended Timber Floor, ready for UFH http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=611 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=611 Wed, 29 Aug 2007 23:08:18 +0100 sweevo
we're (hopefully) soon to have some renovation work start on our home. As part of the work all rooms that are involved will have the floor insulated (100mm K3 Kooltherm) and UFH (Polyplumb overlay) installed. The work does not include the kitchen however which is where the condensing combi boiler is situated.

Our plan was always to rip out the old kitchen (already in place when I moved in 8 years ago) and replace with a new one of our own choice and use this as an ideal time to install the UFH along with the manifold etc in there first. At the moment the floor in there (suspended timber) is not insulated so i'm planning on doing this part of the work myself, ie prior to UFH installation. I'd looked into how to do this about 12-18 months but just wanted to run my plan of action by people who are far more experienced when it comes to this kind of thing.

First up, the K3 Kooltherm is expensive and with the boards being 600mm wide there will be a lot of wastage, ie joists are approx 370mm apart. I was told I couldn't glue spare pieces together to make a new one so I figured i'd be throwing 1/3 of the stuff away which seemed like an awful waste. Because of this I looked at Space Blanket as an alternative. The 200mm rolls have an R Value of 4.5mK/w which if I understand the sums correctly would equate to a U value of 0.22 which is what is specified in the building spec for the 100mm K3 Kooltherm. So in effect I get the same level of insulation for far less cost. One thing that I also wondered about was which way to face the silver coated side of the space blanket. In my loft it faces up so I imagine it would be the reverse under my floor, ie facing down to the ground. Anyone know if this matters either way?

So..... I remember reading about suspending the insulation with netting (nailed to the underside of the joists as support) but have heard that this can sag and reduce the effectiveness of the insulation. With this in mind I wondered if there was any reason I couldn't use the more rigid plastic type fencing (usually green) you get in a roll from garden centers etc to prevent any sagging? I was thinking that wouldn't sag at all if firmly secured to the underside of the joists meaning the 200mm of roll would be slightly compressed into the 175mm joists height and hence touch the floor surface above it.

Finally the UFH install guide says to install the damp proof membrane on top of the flooring prior to laying the overlay boards and piping. I think some people have put this membrane below the floorboards and above the insulation. Would having this membrane over the floorboards rather than under it cause any longterm problems with damp/condensation or do I even need to do both?

Thanks in advance......]]>
Inappropriate prize? http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=636 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=636 Wed, 05 Sep 2007 10:34:27 +0100 Bluemoon Getting the layers rights for a timber frame wall http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=618 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=618 Fri, 31 Aug 2007 18:45:14 +0100 smallcog
I'm wondering if someone can point me in the right direction. I want to build a timber frame house with 30cm of insulation in the stud wall ( a double stud ) and then plaster the outside of the house. I can't find detail of how the timber frame house can take the plaster and keep its breathability.
Does the following sound correct for the layers, starting from the inside out:

1. Internal wall e.g. plasterboard
2. Vapour barrier
3. Stud frame with insulation ( a double 4x2 stud with spacers in between to make the 30cm )
4. Waterproof membrane which is not vapour proof ( breathing )
5. Layer of laths layed diagonally to allow air to circulate on outside of breathing membrane
6. Sheathing, e.g. OSB
7. Extruded metal mesh
8. Plaster

Any opinions on this or pointers to where on the web I can see other possible options ?

many thanks

Colm O'Gairbhith]]>
Sash window repair http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=631 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=631 Tue, 04 Sep 2007 20:58:49 +0100 hippychippy Worried! Timber shortage! http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=475 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=475 Sun, 15 Jul 2007 10:37:46 +0100 richy
Personally I hate those Larch Lap fencing panels, but some of my customers want them, but there is a national shortage of them! I thought it might be due to the storms earlier this year but I am told it is because China is buying up much of the Worlds timber due to the rapid development of that country, and this is forcing the prices up. One big fencing panel manufacturer near me has had to lay off most of his men due to not being able to secure timber supplies!

This is a worrying development, I hope some serious thought will be given to producing more and better home grown timber! It might be already too late for the next generation of Carpenters.]]>
Ventilation and breathability - healthy buildings http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=630 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=630 Tue, 04 Sep 2007 12:47:29 +0100 Peter Clark I just came across this very striking article 'Breathability: The Key to Building Performance' on this webpage

http://www.naturalinsulation.co.uk/downloads.aspx?lc=English&pt=h

It seems very interesting to me although I do not know anything about the author, Neil May, is or his relationship to the natural insulation company.

Amongst other things he is recommending moisture control by hydroscopic buffering and he is looking again at active ventilation, AND passive ventilation.

Modern timber frame and roof construction may be a 'nightmare'!

At the end he has 4 principles of design.

Very interesting reading for me, although I know many people here will be very aware of all this.

Does anyone have an opinion? (ducks)

Peter]]>
12 volt cabling - some practicalities http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=619 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=619 Sat, 01 Sep 2007 12:50:52 +0100 cactustiger
I wonder if anyone could give me some practical pointers on how to connect up my existing system to a small 12 volt ring circuit. I've calculated the voltage drop for the distances involved and got some suitably thick armoured cable to run underneath the building second-hand. My problem is how to connect this up to the system - obviously the existing domestic consumer unit cannot handle the gauge of the cable and I haven't been able to locate any junction boxes with connection blocks large enough to step the cable down. I know these must exist but could anyone give me any tips on makes and suppliers or suggestions of "work arounds"?

I tried the inverter route (although its lower efficiency would have an impact during the winter I think) but the wretched thing did nothing but cut out - it may just have been a rogue one but I wouldn't necessarily want to chuck any more money away on another, unless someone could recommend a model that is reliable and wires into a circuit rather than just having 240volt plug sockets - which seems a bit heath robinson for a permanent system!

Thanks again for your advice.

Chris]]>
Rolled Glass http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=626 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=626 Mon, 03 Sep 2007 23:19:40 +0100 Jill of All Trades Aarrow Ecoburn 7 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=622 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=622 Sun, 02 Sep 2007 17:10:51 +0100 Nick Parsons Straw bale volunteer in Kelso, Scotland 8th September http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=620 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=620 Sat, 01 Sep 2007 23:09:53 +0100 naturalhomes
I've just been asked to post a request for volunteers for a 600 bale infill job in Scotland near Kelso. Here are the details from http://naturalhomes.org

Read about The First Little Pig on Damon's blog and join Damon for the weekend beginning the 8th of September for two days (or more) of infill with 600 straw bales. A great opportunity to get some hands-on experience. Contact Damon on +44 (0)1573 440761 or +44 (0)7771 524474 or by email to damon.rodwell@gmail.com.

You can see the box beam structure that is to be infilled on the natural homes map here http://naturalhomes.org/homesmap.htm. Select "Scotland, Roxburghshire, Kelso" from the drop down list at the bottom of the map.

Regards, Oliver]]>
Weather compensated heating control http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=615 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=615 Fri, 31 Aug 2007 09:30:15 +0100 royer PS. Up to five Smile controllers can be wired together via a two-wire bus to form a control system]]> Best way to insulate between purlins? http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=598 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=598 Sat, 25 Aug 2007 16:43:19 +0100 borked
I'm going round in circles here trying to find the best way to insulate my loft which I'm converting to the kids bedrooms.
The house is an old mediterranean house, the roof has no vapour barrier or anything like that, just 'mechanical' tiles. I've fitted 12 air tiles (3 top and bottom of both faces of the roof to allow air to circulate.

The way the roof is constructed is a bit different from UK roofs:

24x12cm purlines running horizontal, spaced 1m apart
7x5cm rafters sat on the purlins running vertically (perpendicular to the purlins), spcaed 40cm apart
2.5x2.5cm battens on the rafters running horizontally, spaced ~35 cm (length of the tile)

I want to insulate between the purlins, leaving as much of the beam showing as possible (aesthetics but also head room).

I was going to put triso super10, but now I'm having big doubts about its efficiency.

The roof is in full Mediterranean sun all day and without the insulation, the loft easily reads 40-50oC in the height of summer.

What's the best way to do this? Cost not a pb, but the space (headroom) is so really don't want to use the whole 24cm depth of the purlins.

I was thinking 100mm PUR, 3cm space, some reflective thin thing, 2 cm space, foil-backed plasterboard.

Any thoughts?

Many thanks]]>
Gas cookers and airtight houses http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=601 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=601 Sun, 26 Aug 2007 20:00:48 +0100 1not24get Kingspan at BRE really zero carbon? http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=608 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=608 Tue, 28 Aug 2007 19:37:01 +0100 Peter A Water Efficient Loo http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=574 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=574 Sat, 18 Aug 2007 20:13:16 +0100 Neil K


I am looking to source 3 toilets for a new build and obviously they will need to be dual flush and preferably with low overall water requirements, but this leaves a problem... or more accurately I don't want them to. i.e I want a low flush loo that clears the toilet bowl properly.

I am in a rented house at the moment and it would probably win an award (if someone was sad enough to invent one) for the worst flushing toilet in the world. I am keen to avoid buying the latest version of this turd stirrer, hence this post. The problem with it being that I don't want to have a toilet that uses less water per flush, but has to be flushed twice to clear!

I have been to my local builders merchant and they seem less than keen on letting me try the stock out (which I can understand!), but I am not sure if there is a standard for this sort of thing that I can seek to use in a spec. Clearly the industry standard isn't good enough because if it was good enough I wouldn't keep seeing turds left behind!

Any ideas?
:confused:]]>
Fire Regulations: - New legislation or Better education?? Dissertation topic http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=578 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=578 Mon, 20 Aug 2007 09:49:08 +0100 Danb1203
I'm currently conducting research about the Building regulations Part B..... I was looking along the lines of finding faults within the regulation for my dissertation.

I was wondering if anybody on here came across some problems associatted with this part of the regulation? and would you consider that by better education around this part of the regulations would make any difference?

Thanks for looking]]>
100% offset car insurance http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=609 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=609 Wed, 29 Aug 2007 10:32:02 +0100 fostertom www.greeninsurancecompany.co.uk
That's OK then - carte blanche to use the car. Is this credible?

"Our initial project is a new forest being planted at Helmburn farm in Ettrickbridge, Scottish Borders. Over 6,500 new trees will be planted there. Our money has enabled the project to go ahead and gives us exclusive rights to use the forest for offsetting CO2 emissions. Although a voluntary project the scheme will be subject to rigid audit to ensure that it delivers on its contractual commitments and that the new forest is being properly managed. We have teamed up with Forest Carbon www.forest-carbon.co.uk to oversee this. The forest will have full access rights and anyone is free to visit it. You may even hug the trees if you so wish."]]>
Smaller houses http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=607 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=607 Tue, 28 Aug 2007 14:49:12 +0100 alex_dooris What do you think?]]> Any recommendations for builders/designers in cornwall http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=593 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=593 Thu, 23 Aug 2007 19:30:02 +0100 sye
ta]]>