Tue, 19 Dec 2023 06:27:22 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9392 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9392 Wed, 25 Jul 2012 14:15:06 +0100 davidfreeborough
http://www.cavalok.com/cavalok_structural_closer.html

The key advantage is that the CompacFoam will take a screw & the brackets will take the weight of the frame. So there's no more need for long frame fixing straps &, if using a membrane as the air barrier around the opening, no more need for a plywood box.

David]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16057 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16057 Mon, 04 Mar 2019 15:31:20 +0000 bardo
Recommendations please for double/triple glazed windows and doors, inc sliding type. Don't have a big budget. Looking for either hardwood or alu clad. Have had quote from Rationel and would like to know of anyone's experience with their product.

Thanks:bigsmile:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16061 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16061 Wed, 06 Mar 2019 21:04:42 +0000 bardo http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16058 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16058 Tue, 05 Mar 2019 16:42:18 +0000 bardo
Advice on price and sourcing appreciated. Thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16052 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16052 Sun, 03 Mar 2019 23:21:54 +0000 nplusone
Due to busy family life and lack of experience (exacerbated by living on an island), decided a timber frame kit build was most sensible, but most suppliers seem to specify PIU or glass/mineral wool in their standard offering.
Made the mistake of reading very negative comments re health concerns over glass fibre and Kingspan on a certain "green building" website, and now worried that the only healthy insulation option is unicorn wool
:shocked:


Having no mains gas on the island, ground or air source heat pump likely way to go, making a well insulated house even more important. But the more healthy breathable materials all seem to have lesser thermal properties necessitating thicker studs.

Questions:-

Are the health concerns (eg it being carcinogenic) about Rockwool/Glass-fibre justified? (Earthwool seems to have good thermal properties and is relatively inexpensive)
Are concerns over condensation as valid in a new build as they are in an old building?

Considering augmenting wool or warmcel with woodfibre boards, but 6x2 studs seem to necessitate a thickness of woodfibre board that seems unwieldy. 8x2 studs on the other hand are adding so much to the kit cost (£5k) and that's before you consider the extra cost of between-stud insulation.

Wondering if using wood-fibre boards internally as well as externally would help - particularly if the woodfibre boards could replace plasterboard, which I'm not hugely keen on anyway. Are fire regs the big issue with this approach?


Look forward to hearing your suggestions.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16046 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16046 Thu, 28 Feb 2019 22:52:00 +0000 bardo 1) How best to fix from above, potentially using ply wood fixed to the bottom flanges as a support for the insulation?
2) Where to place membranes to ensure air tightness and contain liquid spills from above?
3) Any other tips?

Thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16022 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16022 Sat, 09 Feb 2019 15:21:43 +0000 Victorianeco
He's not 100% what type of loading he will need but apparently he's been quoted 20k for a Battery back up generator setup. Not sure of the full spec but seems excessive.

I'd imagine sending a new armour cable up through the field would be cheaper, could then maybe add in some kind of pv or battery storage also.

Any thoughts?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15961 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15961 Sat, 29 Dec 2018 20:24:57 +0000 Petlyn
We have looked at the usual suspects of Armstrong, Burgess, Ecophon, Knauff etc but they all seem to be directed more to a commercial environment rather than residential. We will need to consider a kitchen and bathroom environment so ideally looking for something which is washable but also with acoustic properties as we have granite flooring and hard plastered walls.

We have looked at an Italian cork panel which is interesting but relatively expensive for our budget. Does anyone have any recommendations that we can consider either in the UK or more likely in Europe?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13295 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13295 Sat, 18 Apr 2015 21:30:57 +0100 splashie
We have a lovely pellet stove to be fitted in our new build but have hit a snag with the air membrane. We have had advice that it's best, when going round a pipe, to cut a bit of ply or simmilar and put round the pipe and attach the membrane to this. - that way it's more robust and you just foam up the wee space left.

This is fine except for a chimney as regs state you can't use flammable material right on to the chimney area.

This must have happened to others sealing their air guard wound a chimney in a wall.

cheers]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15921 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15921 Fri, 09 Nov 2018 11:22:00 +0000 londonselfbuilder
I have read somewhere that most DNO’s use sub-contractors to do their works and it is often possible to get a much lower price by getting one of these sub-contractor to quote directly. Does anyone know of/can recommend any contractors working in the London/South East, that would be able to quote for this? What are my alternatives? Or am I tied to the UK Power Networks monopoly?

Thank you
SF]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15926 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15926 Wed, 14 Nov 2018 19:03:20 +0000 jamesingram 3m/8m
Single story mono pitch PV roof, with work store, bike shed and office/sitting around space.

First thought was stick build with OSB , featheredge , insulated office space only
from the inside : OSB ,quilt in between stud, some board insulation outside studs,baton, felt, baton, featheredge.

Then I thought of 100mm block, with pillars , 150-200mm EPS , thincoat render.
which is simple and probably cheaper.
Be good to not need to heat it.

then I thought of digging a cellar !

It's just a case of digging a hole, slab at the bottom and another 2-2.4m of blockwork, perhaps 150-225mm
and sticking a floor in, right ? :bigsmile:
So I'd drop the EWI about 1m below gnd level and tank it up to DPC internally.

Any bright ideas on how to do it better, especially the cellar bit ?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15902 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15902 Sun, 21 Oct 2018 13:26:27 +0100 tony
The better housing associations have already discovered that it makes sense to build to the Passive House standard and that their tenants like it too.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15879 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15879 Thu, 27 Sep 2018 19:47:09 +0100 tony
Manufacturer wants £80 for enough gloup for two panels, we ave thirty to stick on. 😭

Help!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15829 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15829 Sat, 04 Aug 2018 10:40:17 +0100 Carol hunter Does anyone know please of any environmentally undamaging gluse for outside wood?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15789 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15789 Thu, 05 Jul 2018 08:22:54 +0100 RedDoor http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15768 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15768 Mon, 18 Jun 2018 16:05:51 +0100 Shevek
Any thoughts on FR grade EPS? What do they treat it with? How effective is it (are there any case studies)?

Seems to be readily available from EWI system suppliers. Is it worth considering mineral wool instead? Not a huge fan on plastic in principle.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15773 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15773 Wed, 20 Jun 2018 11:15:44 +0100 nigelm The cabin will essentially be a single bed studio with bathroom, maybe 40 to 50 square meters in total.

I will be doing the build myself so really it's just the material cost.

Initial thoughts are polished concrete slab on foam insulation. Timber I beam frame 300 deep filled with mineral wool. Plasterboard inside and timber cladding.
EDPM roof but pitched for internal volume and also cladded with timber in the outsidefor a monolithic apearence.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15760 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15760 Sat, 09 Jun 2018 19:01:53 +0100 matt1
As I was looking at it today I realised it is going to form a large thermal bridge from the gable end brickwork through the block wall into the bedroom.

I have looked at previous topics on this subject and saw somebody suggest perinsul blocks. I note that these are normally used at the junction between walls and floors. Could these simply be built into the wall before it leaves the heated envelope to prevent bridging or is there a better solution?

Cheers

Matt]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15739 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15739 Sat, 19 May 2018 11:22:06 +0100 aa44
I have a very specific question about the VAT reclaim for a new build.

When we had concrete delivered, we were charged waiting time (because we took longer than the 10 minutes per cube allowed by the supplier).

Can I reclaim the VAT on the waiting time?

I know that if they had charged me a delivery fee and put it on the same invoice, we would be able to reclaim the VAT on the delivery fee. Similarly, tool/plant hire that comes with an operator (e.g. a crane or JCB) is eligible.

Do you think that I could argue that wait time is hire of the concrete truck (with operator) and so is eligible for a VAT refund?

Thanks very much.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15696 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15696 Wed, 25 Apr 2018 10:41:46 +0100 neilgorswift http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15686 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15686 Sun, 22 Apr 2018 09:29:15 +0100 slow
Build-up now is:

skim
plasterboard
25mm battens
woodfibre board
18mm osb
timber frame 140mm
infill Knauf frametherm 32 140mm
11mm osb (optional - will this hinder or enhance frame protection from wet weather ?)
vcl - klober permo frame (?)
38mm battens
fibre cement cladding (cedral click or hardieplank)

So far the frame is up, warm roof is on & complete, the internal 18mm osb anti-racking is up, and the battens are on for the service void - I’ll be removing these, installing the woodfibre IWI & putting the service void battens back on first thing tomorrow, so the internal works can continue (electrician due Tuesday to start first fix). The frame is exposed externally still, so that can wait until the services are through, and the build-up is finalised, then I’ll crack on with that.

My question is about the VCL(s) - if I put Klober permo frame or similar on the outside of the frame, do I also need a vcl internally across the front of the woodfibre board, behind the sevice void? Is Klober Permo Frame my optimum option for vcl here?

Also, I’d be interested to know if the external osb is required / advisable / unnecessary? Does it add to protecting the frame from external moisture, or would we have better moisture management with just the vcl across the front of the studs?

All advice welcome on this one, as it’s only just been settled with BC and I need to fit the IWI this week, because the electrician starts first fixing on Tuesday!

slow

Back story:
I initially just spec’d it myself as I’ve been involved in these builds on more than one occasion before, with Steico Protect & Lime Green’s 3-coat lime. The BI immediately had a panic about fire, because one wall is within 1m of the boundary. So I went back to him with NBT’s Pavatex build-up which has a BBA cert, and is a thin render system on woodfibre, but again avoids the ventilation cavity & rainscreen cladding approach. As the extension is my parents’ bedroom, bathroom & kitchen, I was keen to avoid the cavity & cladding, and give them a nice warm space. I much prefer the detailing of the fully enclosed build-up. But my BI still wasn’t prepared to say yes, despite the clear information of the BBA cert showing compliance, even specifically mentioning the build-up when within 1m of the boundary. As there are so many things he’s still picking over and my parents need to get moved in, I agreed to switch to IWI and give him the vented cavity & cement board rainscreen cladding. We met in his office, and as soon as I said I would switch to this build-up he became extremely cooperative - came up with an alternative calcs method for maximum openings; cleared all my proposed doors / openings etc. and essentially just stopped being an obstacle, so this is where I am, for better or worse.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15642 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15642 Fri, 23 Mar 2018 21:39:11 +0000 NeilD
My SE has prescribed wind posts due to high wind loads (altitude and proximity to coast). Wall construction is 100/200/100 cavity. It has been suggested in some locations where we have other steels interconnecting to use 100mm box sections as windposts that sit in the inner skin blockwok (medium dense blocks).

I'm not sure how best to detail the air tight barrier in these locations. Elsewhere it is wet plaster but I am concerned it will crack badly where the masonry meets the windposts if I just mesh over the posts. I'm considering in the area where I have these windposts using a membrane over them lapped under a parging coat on the blockwork. Then dot and dabbing plasterboard over the top. Hopefully this will avoid recurring unsightly cracks and leaks.

Thoughts? Am I worrying about cracking too much?

Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15627 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15627 Wed, 14 Mar 2018 22:13:16 +0000 NeilD
First post on here - been lurking for a while picking up lots of useful info - very grateful for collective wisdom.

Just about to start a new build - large detached house, cavity wall construction, aiming for close to passive standards.

The plan is to fix first floor joists to a ledger plate bolted to the block work with resin anchors a la 'The Green Building Store' cavity builds. Our brickie is suggesting we will need full scaffolding inside and out as the blocks will need at least a week to go off before fixing the plate. I am curious if others have had to do this or have managed a workaround by carefully scheduling elements of the block work which was my suggestion - there is a garage and internal walls to be getting on with whilst the blockwork to be fixed to goes off.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15535 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15535 Mon, 29 Jan 2018 16:32:49 +0000 tony
Or do we just hang out a load of wall ties now?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/59ipasagvvyxcvf/bonding%20in.JPG?dl=0]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10970 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10970 Mon, 05 Aug 2013 16:58:03 +0100 Triassic
As we live surrounded by trees what is the best way of stopping leaf litter getting into the gutters and ultimately into the rainwater recycling tank?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12637 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12637 Sun, 05 Oct 2014 16:29:10 +0100 Chunkylover
Can anyone please explain why this is ??

We are currently in the process of building a self build property and the internal walls are all constructed using 100mm concrete blocks, what would be the best process to bring it to a finished wall??]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15417 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15417 Mon, 27 Nov 2017 13:05:50 +0000 tony
It is nice to have targets but the wider infrastructure, skilled labour in particular can’t deliver this quantity of new homes.

Then we could talk about if new homes even count if they are built in a substandard way.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14975 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14975 Sun, 12 Mar 2017 12:46:13 +0000 sheffieldnick
http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/segal-method-timber-frames

It can create mono-pitched (shed) and dual-pitched (gable) roofs with specified maximum/eaves heights for avoiding the need for planning permission in the UK. Rafters can be solid timbers or engineered timber I-beams. Metal fixings are included in the model, such as M12 bolts and truss clips. Floor joists at 400mm or 600mm centers can be added, as can wall studwork.

It also saves out a spreadsheet listing all the components used, as standard length timbers, etc. to make it easier to cost & order the parts.

It is still an early version of the extension, and I'm sure there is lots of room for improvement, so I would dearly love to hear any feedback - positive or negative! Ideas for new features, things I should be doing differently, etc.

I think I've made a mistake by having the floor joists resting across the sills of the bents (and having the bent tiebeams underneath the topplates) ? It does simplify the design (e.g., no need for joist hangers) but it drastically reduces the headroom, which is a big problem if you are building under permitted development and the eaves height can't be more than 2.5m :(

Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15397 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15397 Wed, 15 Nov 2017 20:03:35 +0000 zgreentouch I've recently started looking into the sphere of vertical gardening as part of my work or my "Green Building" project.
Does any one in the forum have experience in this sphere or in building vertical gardens for villas?

What are the costs? What kind of insulation is needed?
Are there any leading brands?
do we need to order some special supplies?
Thank you in advance for your kind replies, as always.
Have a great week!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14894 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14894 Sun, 05 Feb 2017 16:05:14 +0000 OracsRevenge
I am building a new house and have had a few restrictions placed upon me, including a really short time-frame.

The foundations must be piled and also have a suspended RC slab

With this as a starting point, I am building a timber frame house with block-work exterior (rendered) but the plot also comes with a height restriction, so trying to make sure I keep the finished floor level as low as possible.

I have had a good search through the forums and most of my question have been answered, but I need to double check I am heading in the right direction with the foundation detail before I career off in the wrong direction.

http://www.ukrobotgroup.com/images/build/Foundation%20section%20plot%208.png

Some specific issues I am struggling with:

Most of the slabs I have seen on line seem to have their top edge pretty much level with the outside ground level. If the slab is sunk a little lower than ground level, do you start to move into tanking territory? Also, a builder told me that if I raised the level of the screed above the DPC I would "be asking for trouble", not quite sure why.

At the doorways I am struggling with the detail. Front door needs to be a level threshold, but not quite sure if the detail I have drawn makes sense. Most of the doors I have been looking at seem to limit the sill to around 150mm which would put the door roughly in the front part of the 50mm cavity.

Also, most people seem to be saying that the door frame should be mounted back to the timber frame and a movement gap be left underneath it. Not quite sure how to create a gap under the sill and frame, doesn't sound right to me.

http://www.ukrobotgroup.com/images/build/Foundation%20section%20plot%208%20flush%20front%20door%20050217.png

The rear has a bi-fold door which I also want to get as flush as possible. The trouble with these is that the channels the doors run in need to be sunk down into the block-work. As my DPC is at 150mm and the finished floor level is not much higher, not sure if I'm allowed to install the channel lower than the DPC so it's top edge is flush enough. See example from Kloeber (but their design allows them to sit above the DPC)

http://www.kloeber.co.uk/shared/media/documents/87/Standard%20Track%20Flush%20Installation%20Aligned%20-%20Externally%20Opening.pdf


Thanks for any assistance.

Pete]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15247 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15247 Mon, 21 Aug 2017 20:25:16 +0100 zgreentouch I've found this thread particularly interesting as I'm at the early planning stages of a small sustainable building complex, and anth.payne put it:" It's a big headache trying to factor in the different aspects of cost, energy use, comfort, durability, for the different systems in the home".

Any of you could kindly share what WBS or other tools your are using for calculating the energy requirements of a house?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15229 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15229 Sun, 13 Aug 2017 17:06:17 +0100 Carol hunter I would much appreciate sharing this perplexing missive from the planning dept here at West Norfolk.
Can anyone tell us whether this is "legally" required or not? The wording is frankly baffling and we have no experience of any requirement from them with our previous build. It appears that the fee is optional from the wording....This is for our very low cost/low impact tiny cottage mad from salvaged and natural materials only....

I hope it's readable...]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=22 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=22 Mon, 05 Feb 2007 00:43:59 +0000 Kieran Type of House
Mainstream house-type of a minimum of 3 bedrooms
Height: Maximum of 4 storeys inclusive of a room in the roof if specified
Plot size: Maximum dimensions of 9m x 9m
Adaptability: can be constructed as a detached and attached home with a party wall
Parking: inclusion of an integral garage with parking for one family car

Method of Construction
All forms of construction will be considered such as brick and block, steel frame, timber frame, concrete frame. This list is not intended to be exhaustive
Innovative building materials and products

Environment
Target of a carbon-neutral footprint
To achieve a Level 5 in the new Code for Sustainable Homes* (no restrictions on the use of materials but where possible the use of appropriate recycled materials and sustainable products is encouraged)
To include provision for water catchment and grey water recycling

What does everyone think? Is it possible to be carbon neutral on 9m x 9m?

read the full details here:
http://www.britishhomesawards.com/]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15209 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15209 Tue, 01 Aug 2017 10:12:47 +0100 dereke
Should I bother?

https://www.wolman.biz/en/wood_preservation/treatment_of_constructional_timber/products/index.php]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15190 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15190 Wed, 19 Jul 2017 22:28:58 +0100 dereke
I obviously need a lintel of some description for this. It will be supporting a roof on a 4degree pitch built with joists/insulation and sheet metal roofing.

Will a couple of lengths of 225x47 be sufficient or should I get a steel lintel? If so what steel lintels are there for timber frames - I see a lot for timber frames with a cavity and brick but nothing for timber frame, EWI and timber cladding.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12587 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12587 Wed, 24 Sep 2014 18:12:45 +0100 djh
I'm sure there must be an easy answer to this, and it may well have been answered on GBF before now, but google hasn't yet thrown up an answer for me...

I have found some details for proprietary insulation boards, but not yet anything for generic EPS. There will be battens and timber cladding on the outside and probably a service zone on the inside but they're not too important.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15182 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15182 Fri, 14 Jul 2017 10:01:30 +0100 dereke
The building is 4x3m with a 3m wide opening for bifold doors.

I was going to go with a 150mm floor filled with Celotex XR4150
150mm timber stud walls again filled with XR4150 with 35mm Isolair sarking on the outside (http://www.pavatex.com/products/roof/isolair) and larch cladding.

On the roof 150mm rafters with XR4150 between then and 52mm of Isolair on top. 4° pitch covered with sheet metal.

Does this sound OK? Do I need some kind of vapour control layer?
I was wondering about using 20mm Isolair internally as well instead of plasterboarding. Anyone know what the finish is like on it?

The reason for the sarking board on the outside is for extra insulation but also I was under the impression I could fix the sheet metal and the cladding directly to it - is this the case or do I need to batten it as well?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15127 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15127 Mon, 12 Jun 2017 21:15:36 +0100 dereke I am planning to build an office in my garden using one of these SIP kits you can get.
The ground here is clay (about 300mm below ground level). I've read that a raft foundation is suitable for this kind of soil but this seems a bit overkill for a 4x3m wooden structure.

Does anyone have any experience with this kind of situation? What (non concrete or at least masses of it) options do I have?

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15140 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15140 Tue, 20 Jun 2017 21:37:33 +0100 dsewell
Does anybody know of XPS boards that are "certified" for use in cavity walls below DPC? We were planning on using 275mm Polyfoam XPS Floorboard around the perimiter of a 300mm cavity, but the boards are not "certified" for use in walls and come in 600mm sheets not 450mm.

Consequently, our warranty company has informed us we can not cut the floorboards for use in a cavity wall. (Grrr :angry:)

So, have been frantically searching for an XPS board we CAN use in a cavity (with certificates) but it looks like PIR has taken over. (We preferred the idea of XPS vs PIR as we understand this would perform better below DPC where there could be moisture.)

Does anybody know of an XPS manufacturer that supplies boards specifically for use in cavities?

DS]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15157 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15157 Tue, 27 Jun 2017 20:16:10 +0100 dsewell
I've been trying to find a definitive answer to the regs related to bringing services into a house. We are building on a plot that had services (gas, elec, water, telecom) on the plot already. The gas, water and electricity all run under the slab and come up in the utility.

Each of the services are in seperate ducts, and all of the ducts are in a single shallow trench.

My questnios is - is it ok for all of the services to run in close proximity to each other?

The only requirement we can find relates to the depth of the water pipe below ground. They are all well below the ground level and below the floor structure (which is made up of hardcore, blinding, 300mm of insulation and 150mm slab).

Our contractor is great and has suggested all is fine and within regs. But, it just feels as though there should be some seperation between them. I called WRAS and they said call NJUG and NJUG said their responsibility ends with the utility companies and the highway and to call the utilities. We have reviewed the Thames water new build guidance but it is silent on below the house requirements.

Is anybody able to shed any light on utilities below the house? If there is a requirement I can ping it over to the contractor. If not, all is well.

Any help welcome.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15134 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15134 Sat, 17 Jun 2017 00:01:41 +0100 dsewell
We are building a new passivhaus and are trying to design a robust detail to reduce local thermal bridging for two columns. The main wall structure is a 215mm AAC block with 280mm EWI / Render. The floor is a 150mm slab on 300mm XPS. For the columns, our current design is to use a thermal break (farrat) where the column meets the foundation. Because this is all below ground, we will encase the column in c.100mm concrete to form a plinth, and the plinth will be painted with liquid dpc as with the other area of the wall. We are then planning to wrap the plinth in 100mm insulation up to the same level as the floor insulation to provide thermal continuity. See attached drawing.

This feels like an ok solution. An alternative we are considering is to again use a thermal break but move the insulation in so that it wraps the steel with the plinth then around that. Again, with DPM etc around the plinth.

In both cases, we will then RIW damp-proof products and apoxy mastic / similar around the column at the top of the plinth.

Does anybody have any experience with either or the above suggested methods? Or, can anybody recommended other ways to reduce thermal bridging for columns below ground level?

We obviously need a solution that can take the structural loads, but also needs to be robust to stop corrosion and condensation. Any tips / solutions that have worked would be greatly appreciated.

Best regards,

D]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15067 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15067 Tue, 25 Apr 2017 18:03:11 +0100 archess200
Any comments on what to use for a good clean other than their own product? What to refinish with? I believe the finish is polyurethane lacquer, but is this different from polyurethane varnish? Anything easier? What about a wax oil? It always seems to me that anything oily would attract and hold the dirt and dust. Any experience of this?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15105 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15105 Fri, 26 May 2017 18:50:17 +0100 debbiel
My timber frame house was originally designed to be single storey with non habitable attic space. The roof insulation was going to be pir or sheeps wool.

While the timber frame was being built, we were offered a good deal on attic trusses, so decided to make it habitable attic space.

Downstairs in the walls we have a lovely mix of woodfibre insulation between studs, VCL, then woodfibre boads. Internal walls have thermafleece for acoustic insulation.

At some point we were persuaded to use Actis Hybrid in the roof. Not sure in hindsight that this was the best option, but we went ahead with the roofing being done with Boost R Hybrid as the underlay. The roofers fitted over fascia vents and Marley dry ridge system for the clay tiles. Over fascia vents were shown on the building regs drawings, but that was for the original insulation. I was told the roofers had experience with Actis, so assumed they were correct in still fitting them.

We are now about to do the between the rafter stage of insulation with Actis Hybris (there will then be a VCL on the face of the rafters). My dilemma is that Actis are now saying we shouldn't have the fascia vents as it will allow airflow in the gap between the underlay Boost R Hybrid and the Hybris,, which could cause condensation. They are recommending we cover the vents with mineral wool.

I've read so many places that vents are important but now I've tried to research it and I'm even more confused. So please anyone who has an opinion share it here, because generally you guys explain things really well. (I'm a first time self builder, generally going well, just feeling overwhelmed with this bit!) Thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15078 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15078 Tue, 02 May 2017 15:17:17 +0100 Ed Davies
Doing the last 10 mm or so with a hammer with 90 mm ring nails is hard work when they're at an awkward angle with not much space behind them. In retrospect I should have just used 75 mm rings for that - just noggins but between quite closely spaced rafters.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14985 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14985 Wed, 15 Mar 2017 22:01:30 +0000 bogal2 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15038 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15038 Tue, 11 Apr 2017 08:10:36 +0100 archess200
Seems strange to protect the walls and roof against fire but no requirement for the floor.

I don't want to put plasterboard behind the plywood due to space, weight and mess. Suggestions and comments please.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13159 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13159 Mon, 02 Mar 2015 11:04:52 +0000 kentishgreen
Hoping someone here can advise. I'm about to have the SIPs manufacturer finalise manufacturing drawings, but I would like to ensure that there are no issues with the opening sizes in the panels when the time comes to install the rooflights. The given size Velux roof windows are 550x980 and looking at typical velux installation instructions, they appear to indicate a tolerance of 40-60mm for the width (EDZ):

http://www.professional.velux.co.uk/en-GB/Documents/Installation%20instructions%20pdf/GGL_GGU452953-2013-03.pdf

So I presume the manufacturing drawings should be 600ish for the width? And I guess with this 40-60mm gap, it's intended to have their insulation kit fitted around the frame (BDX kit)?

Obviously I don't want my installer thinking he can simply hack away at the SIP panels on the day, if the fit is a bit tight. Nor do I want a massive gap that needs to be filled with sealant etc.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15033 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15033 Thu, 06 Apr 2017 22:25:08 +0100 anth.payne
As I've continued to research I've just ended with a big headache with all the pros and cons of various options!

The plot is rural, and serviced (no gas). We are currently in the planning stages, with plans currently being drawn up. It is expected to be 1.5 story, 250-300m2 south facing. We're looking at a 'U' shaped floor plan, with 2 glazed gable ends to the rear (south)... which I know is a suboptimal layout.

The current line of thought is to place more emphasis on the fabric of the building, lending the methods from PH. I'm not dead set on achieving PH, but not ruling it out as such. We have a healthy but limited budget, so it's important that we balance capital cost with ROI.

So, after all that preamble, my question is what is the optimum configuration for Heating, HW and Elec?

I'm tempted to go down the route of having no additional heating, but nervous of this approach. At the opposite end of the spectrum, I'm also nervous of overheating in summer months due to the south facing glazing.

So what I'm currently considering is having UFH - is it possible to use this to heat in winter, and cool in summer?

An alternative to UFH is to just have some form of supplementary elec heating. I did start looking at some economic infrared heaters from Herschel.

If we do go down the UFH route as a delivery method, the next question is how do we supply the heat...?

Started looking at PV-T, after speaking with Seamus at Viking House. I have some reservations about winter performance for warming the water?

Then I also started investigating a ASHP. Perhaps on it's own, and rely on the grid. Or supplemented with PV?

Or perhaps even a combination of PV+T & ASHP, which may be over kill!

Sorry for the life story... but I'd love to hear some thoughts.

Thanks
Anthony]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15027 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15027 Sun, 02 Apr 2017 22:29:50 +0100 Gotanewlife
I assume it is movement from the EPS boards coming through the render. The flaking paint does not appear to propagate from the cracks and anyway is confined to some very small areas - I think the paint is a red herring from, what I am guessing, is a more serious problem. But is it? What is the prognosis for EWI with such cracks? Is it a common problem? Is it serious/so what? Most worrying for my friend (assuming this is a significant problem) is that the EWI was fitted by the builder - a builder with known cash flow problems and who has fought for every penny through every aspect of this build.

Anyone have any experience of this sort of problem? Ta]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15018 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15018 Wed, 29 Mar 2017 18:00:24 +0100 Ed Davies
I'm currently undecided what deck to put on the joists until the roof is on. Maybe some semi-sacrificial OSB which can be recycled into non-critical applications later. Or CaberDek (but that only lasts 42 days outside and it might take me 43 days to get the roof up).

Or is there anything else I could use? Maybe some sort of commercial/light-industrial flooring which will be happy out in the weather for a while and will be suitable for areas for storage and various alternative energy bits and bobs.

I was looking at my container floor when I thought of that but container flooring is not the sort of thing you want in a house, particularly a well sealed one, as it's heavily treated.

Or anything to cover ordinary 22 mm chipboard flooring which will protect it long enough and will stand being walked on, etc.

Any suggestions?


[¹] http://norbord.co.uk/products/caberboard/caberdek/]]>