Tue, 19 Dec 2023 04:05:44 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17856 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17856 Tue, 06 Jun 2023 12:53:15 +0100 gustyturbine http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17855 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17855 Sat, 03 Jun 2023 11:48:27 +0100 Victorianeco
And what would a rough cost and timescale be to get up to say 2-3m in height?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17869 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17869 Mon, 12 Jun 2023 21:58:16 +0100 Victorianeco
In order for the property to work for us as a family we would either need to go into the attic and add 2 bedrooms upstairs, possibly turning into a gable roof and adding dormers or we add a side extension...

What sort of method would be cheaper/better in the long run?

The dormer conversion would potentially give us decent sea views also

The bungalow itself is on a footprint of12m x 12m, the existing ridge line is only 2.5m central to the property. The length of each hip is about 7.8m

Does anyone know what the usable roof area space would be using a quick calculation?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17854 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17854 Sat, 03 Jun 2023 10:22:55 +0100 fostertom http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17867 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17867 Mon, 12 Jun 2023 19:36:14 +0100 owlman I smell a rat as the letter at first quick glance looked like something official, obviously deliberate. I'm guessing they are a sort of middleman creaming off a % from contractors who are registered with them.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17863 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17863 Sat, 10 Jun 2023 17:14:49 +0100 cjard http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17862 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17862 Sat, 10 Jun 2023 15:14:38 +0100 Jeff B
Some problems were encountered
The requested discussion could not be found.

I have written a brief description but then referred to a WORD file for more details. Is attaching the WORD file the problem?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17181 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17181 Mon, 06 Sep 2021 12:22:28 +0100 modernvictorian
Anyhow, in the interim I have been getting on with trying out the insulating plaster (Bauwer light). I have had some success so far (as a novice) and half tempted to keep going given the quotes I have had back for application to external facing walls. Another factor is that massive surplus I now have - the original order contained 90+ bags of out of date Light which were replaced but old stock not removed. The old stuff is not great but useful for filling in big holes etc.

So far I have completed two walls in the kitchen area so that the plumber can get going. Applied 40mm-ish of the Light render, and then Bauwer Finish embedded in mesh. I used a speedskim to flatten top layers. The final result is not bad but I had trouble getting a smooth finish on the Bauwer Finish coat. It does contain some cement so maybe hardens faster than a pure lime based plaster? I am looking for recommendations on what to use a skim coat over the Bauwer. I know Nick has mentioned the Baumit plasters as being very user friendly so I am looking in that direction. Ideally something I could use all around the house i.e. over both the Bauwer, some areas of WF, and also plasterboard (after appropriate primer). Does such a thing exist? Also any tips on how to finish (timings!) as most of my web-based learning is from guys using either multi-finish or pure lime putty, not much inbetween.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17858 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17858 Wed, 07 Jun 2023 20:17:27 +0100 CX23882
- the option of an external fly (or solar mesh) screen.
- microventilation or night vent position

Screens:
For fly screens, it seems that the majority of tilt and turn windows on the market now incorporate a drip-bar at the bottom of the opening panel/sash, meaning that retrofit screens that sit within the opening won't work (I'm talking about the semi-permanent clip-in type that allow the window to be closed with the screen in place).

MIcroventilation:
One useful feature of typical UK casement and awning windows is the night lock position, which allows for the window to be locked with a small opening. Some continental tilt and turn windows provide a "microventilation" position on the handle, where it is moved between the tilt position and turn position, and it allows a small opening for ventilation. I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere in marketing material.

Even better than a fixed small vent position would be the option to variably restricting the tilt amount simply via the main mechanism, without the need for supplementary limiters. My biggest concern is the risk to cats becoming stuck in the open "V" between the frame and sash. Being able to limit the opening to no more than 1 to 1.5cm at mid-height would mitigate that. Has anybody come across that?

Finally - can anyone share their thoughts on the benefits of "tilt before turn" versus "turn then tilt". I assume that "tilt before turn" is less wear and tear on the mechanism if you predominantly use the tilt mode. To me, the idea of turn then tilt is "aesthetically" correct - handle horizontal to turn open, handle vertically-up to tilt, and down to lock; and this is the way I've seen most windows operate in person (admittedly only a handful).]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17096 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17096 Fri, 18 Jun 2021 13:27:16 +0100 revor http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17857 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17857 Tue, 06 Jun 2023 14:27:10 +0100 greenfinger
Following on from my lead replacement thread... In the same area of roof, we have a hole in the sarking board and felt from where a flue was removed. While the slates are off to redo the leadwork, we'll be looking to put this right as well.

I've just been up to measure and it is 11mm thick.

The existing is ply. Can I use OSB for the repair or would it be best to stick with the same and use ply? I note ply tends to be 12mm whereas 11mm OSB is readily available (not sure how much 1mm difference would matter though?). If OSB is suitable, what type/grade would I need? I'm don't really know anything about OSB to be honest...

Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17792 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17792 Thu, 23 Mar 2023 12:32:10 +0000 revor http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17821 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17821 Sun, 23 Apr 2023 15:32:25 +0100 Rex
I only seem to ask questions relating to somewhat trivial things, and here is another.

Our rooflights are Fakro and too high to open/close by hand, so have the Fakro ZST pole to hook over the handle to twist open or closed. As is frequently the case with poor design, it is designed to save material rather than be sufficiently strong to last for as long as necessary.

Consequentially, one of the two supports had fractured and I have been researching the best way to fix and reinforce. Then I found the SuperGlue and baking soda solution. Whoever, the solution certainly hardens but does not adhere to the plastic so I have chipped it off.

There is an expensive solution, buy another pole which cost a mere £50. I am very reluctant to pay that sort of money when I only need a small plastic bit when the pole is perfect.

Which leaves with seeking some advice on GBF. Grateful for any thoughts.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17849 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17849 Tue, 23 May 2023 12:37:53 +0100 Kenny_M Unventilated void under stairs, in the pic, causing problems in the hallway.

Interested in thoughts on what to do about it.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17818 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17818 Thu, 20 Apr 2023 10:55:42 +0100 WillInAberdeen
"almost all newly installed heating systems in Germany should run on 65% renewable energy from 2024, both in new and old buildings.

"Houses could also use heat pumps that run on renewable electricity, district heating, electric heating or solar thermal systems

"The government will offer a subsidy of 30% for residential properties occupied by owners and 10% extra if the owners opt for an earlier climate-friendly heating switch...
Homeowners who receive income-related welfare benefits could get 20% extra subsidy"]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17831 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17831 Mon, 08 May 2023 12:13:31 +0100 marsaday
We have cast iron boxed guttering which leaks at the joints. So this needs attention. We also have a fair bit of rotted wood on the fascia and mouldings. I have only been close to the guttering in one place, which is at the side of the building where we have a fire escape. So i have seen bits of it, but cant assess the whole thing.

Next year we are going to scaffold the front and sides (maybe the back if we have enough money) and will be tacking this job.

I am unsure what is the best course of direction to go in. We want to improve the leaks obviously, but also need to think about future maintenance / painting.

I just wondered if anyone here has done something similar and how they tackled the job. I have a few options:

1) Repair the cast and create new seals at the joints. Remove them to sand and repaint and also sand and repaint the wood fascias plus sort out any rot.

2) Replace the cast with aluminium and treat the wood fascia in the same way.

3) Go all PVC and use the cladding option on the wood and then use pvc guttering. I have seen pics of a guy who has done this on his older building and it looks good. The pvc also means no painting in another 10 years time.

I have a feeling I will be the one who ends up doing this work as the quotes to do it will be very high. Our scaffold quote is £1200 and that is for the front and half the side. Next year we will have more money in the kitty so we have decided to tackle it then and we can then scaffold the rear plus the other 50% of the side. By doing it myself I will be quite a bit less than a company doing it.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9455 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9455 Thu, 16 Aug 2012 13:14:57 +0100 TimSmall
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/book/export/html/17147

... unless anyone knows differently, and you can now get lower global warming potential (GWP) XPS without dropping the k value too?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17837 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17837 Thu, 11 May 2023 22:10:22 +0100 bogal2 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17847 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17847 Sat, 20 May 2023 13:16:57 +0100 revor Part of the crop is protected with ultrasonic device which seems to work but range is not good. Anyone got any experience they can share?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17848 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17848 Mon, 22 May 2023 09:31:32 +0100 WillInAberdeen
A disused masonry chimney has a disused spiral flue liner in it. The inside of the flue liner is ventilated at the top through a chimney cap, but the space inbetween masonry and flue liner is not ventilated, there is damp that might be condensation.

Other disused chimneys have airbricks in the old fireplaces, but aside from the air leakage problem, there is no access to this fireplace from the inside, or to remove the spiral liner or infill the chimney.

I am thinking of putting airbricks top and bottom of the masonry chimney to ventilate it out through the outside wall, then IWI. Anyone got experience/pros/cons/alternatives?

Thanks!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17845 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17845 Fri, 19 May 2023 12:12:41 +0100 selly
How much would I ruin the fabric of the building if I dot'n dabbed insulated plasterboard onto the internal walls?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17828 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17828 Wed, 03 May 2023 11:55:09 +0100 Rex
Not a building question, specifically, gardening!

We have a 4x1 tanalised timber edging between the garden and the gravel drive. It lasts around 5 years before completely disintegrating. In the past, I have painted with creosote (5 years)l old engine oil and then Ducksback timber treatment (5 years.)

This time, I am considering not treating but fixing some black plastic on the back where the timber is in constant contact with the soil and then some Ducksback on the visible, above ground timber.

My kinda question is, timber rots due to the contact with the damp soi (or course, it also rots because it is a rubbish material!); but plastic will not prevent water ingress and could assist in containing dampness.

Given that I am on a budget and all other options are very expensive, is there a preferred method to prolong the life of the timber?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17844 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17844 Fri, 19 May 2023 09:47:13 +0100 fostertom http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17846 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17846 Fri, 19 May 2023 12:58:38 +0100 selly http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17840 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17840 Fri, 12 May 2023 19:19:36 +0100 mitchino
I've found I can glue, cut, file, sand and paint them and get a good result, but I'm concerned about the dust and bits I'm creating and the environment.

I know they use expanding foam to build sets in the movie industry, how do they get around the problem? And if I am to use polystyrene or the rigid insulation, which one is the least bad for the environment?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17811 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17811 Sat, 15 Apr 2023 19:07:28 +0100 Victorianeco
It's a 2 bedroom bungalow with hipped roof, looking at adding a dormer and possibly double extension if possible.

Something I've always been interested in (architecture design) but never really persued it

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17836 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17836 Thu, 11 May 2023 16:03:01 +0100 borpin
My take is that the whole building would have been damp before the insulation was fitted. Once fitted, the inherent dampness couldn't escape causing the issues.

I suggest that, once installed, the whole building needed to be subjected to intense de-humidification and then small dehumidifiers fitted to maintain the RH (as folk tend not to ventilate sufficiently).]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17799 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17799 Tue, 28 Mar 2023 14:22:47 +0100 Rex
Having installed a replacement wash basin and therefore new silicone, decided to remove and re-silicone the bath and shower. Can't believe how such a little bit of renewal makes the bathroom look fresher.

However, the grout is looking a little jaded. Have seen the 'grout paint' and read various comparison reviews but am sceptical.

What is considered the 'best' to get the grout back to fresh and perhaps white again?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17830 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17830 Sat, 06 May 2023 23:16:57 +0100 WillInAberdeen http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17826 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17826 Mon, 01 May 2023 13:23:19 +0100 Victorianeco
I bought a tube but can't remember the name of it

Possibly sikaflex perhaps? Any thoughts?

I need to buy another tube]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17703 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17703 Thu, 19 Jan 2023 11:54:43 +0000 Simon Still This is our install - its' in a cupboard in our home workshop. Because that's a dusty space I didn't connect the MVHR for that room (but we open the door to outside a number of times each day and frequently open the door to the rest of the house). However, it's *possible* the room is a bit more humid than the rest of the house with two of us frequently spending the day in it. But the door to the cupboard is fairly well sealed so there shouldn't be a lot of air movement into it.

In cold weather we get some condensation on top of the machine (which runs down the side or through the case and drips onto the floor from the front right corner (which must be the lowest point). It's not a huge amount - if a pot is put under it never builds up to much and if that plastic crate is in the right place I think it collects and evaporates from there without ever overflowing, but it had got moved and there was a paint tin sitting under it....

The pipe from outside is clad in rigid insulation and the spaces it runs through are also filled with glass fire insulation (and clearly the air is still cold when it hits the MVHR cupboard).

The last stretch of flexi pipe with glass fibre insulation is clearly the worst in terms of both the level of insulation and the sealing. In fact it might not even be the pipe thats the issue - the exposed plastic nozzle it attaches to and that part of machine are effectively cold and poorly insulated.

Is this normal and unavoidable for an MVHR installed in an internal space or is there some way of improving it?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17817 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17817 Wed, 19 Apr 2023 11:10:10 +0100 bgasparotto
We are just getting our whole house rewire finished and will soon be able to fill up the chases for the new wires. Our house is a 1910 Victorian build type and has 4 different types of walls. I am wondering what's the best material to fill the voids?
They are all about 25mm deep x 65mm wide, the wires are enclosed in oval conduits. I will describe below what each wall is according to the enumerated picture :D

1. External solid brick wall plastered with lime (probably mixed with ash, hence the dark grey). Will be insulated with wood fibre boards so the finish is not important at this layer but it needs to breath.

2. Internal solid wall. It seems to have clay (?) breezed blocks. Plastered with lime as the external walls. The finish is important here as we would like to remove the wallpaper around it, fill some holes, sand and paint it with clay paint.

3. Internal stud lath and plaster wall. The plaster is also lime. Finish is important on this one too.

4. External wall of modern-ish extension. It seems to be a cavity wall with breeze blocks plastered with gypsum. Finish might be important as I am unsure how this will be insulated (maybe in the cavity, but haven't gone into it yet).

I don't mind having to work extra with lime materials for 1, 2 and 3 that take longer to set as long as we make it good with the best materials we can and closer to original. When it comes the time to plaster the external wall WF boards I will probably use limegreen solo, but I am wondering what's best for these smaller jobs. As for 4, I suspect that's a job for gypsum based materials?

Thanks in advance!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17614 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17614 Thu, 20 Oct 2022 19:27:17 +0100 WillInAberdeen
This will be interesting! Good for battery owners.

"National Grid has significantly increased its financial incentive for households that shift their power usage away from peak times as part of a renewed effort to prevent rolling power cuts."

"Its electricity system operator (ESO) has increased the incentive sixfold to £3 per kilowatt hour to encourage households to use their washing machines and appliances late at night, which could mean typical savings of £100 this winter."]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17824 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17824 Thu, 27 Apr 2023 08:32:58 +0100 kaicasswell
Ground temps at that depths are pretty constant so it seems I don’t need as much as a normal ground floor?
The architects just put 150mm but that seems excessive.
Please and thank you!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17823 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17823 Wed, 26 Apr 2023 08:37:46 +0100 thebeacon
I have a question about how best to install a vapour control layer in the floor or my timber framed garden room.

The VCL will sit above the joists (with insulation between) and under 18mm OSB, which will form the subbase of the garden room. My question is, should the VCL be cut to the same size at the floor area, or should there be extra membrane left that can be folded back over the 18mm OSB floor?

If I installed the VCL with additional membrane, the wall bottom plate could sit on it and the extra membrane could be wrapped up the internal wall and fixed to the VCL I install in the wall. Would this make sense? The VCL that sits under the walls bottom plate would be punctured by the nails that fix the bottom plate in the subframe. Butyl tape could be used between the bottom plate and subframe to seal the nail punctures. My concern with using butyl tape is the thickness of it and I feel it would be better to have a solid contact between the bottom plates of the walls and the subframe.

I might be over thinking it all and it’s best to simply to install the VCL cut to the same size at the floor area.

I have attached two drawings to illustrate the build-up of the project.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16574 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16574 Mon, 25 May 2020 19:58:16 +0100 Kenny_M Hope you are all keeping well. One advantage of lockdown has been the amount of work I have been getting done on the house, with my extension now finished and moving into the old part of the house.

I am about to fit a new floor in a downstairs bathroom and have been thinking about filling the underfloor void with EPS beads before I close it up, as a few threads on here have suggested. House is ~150-200 years old. Its difficult to find supplier of the beads, but found one supplier custompac who will deliver a pallet of 2265 litres for £164.88. Not sure if this is about right because I can’t find any alternatives. They don’t mention a thermal conductivity value so presume its not the graphite type, but as it will be between 300 to 500mm deep its maybe not critical.

I can see a lot of benefits from this, and the reduction in draughts probably as much of a benefit as the floor insulation, but can anyone suggest any issues/risks I should consider?

If I go ahead I presume all I need to do is protect any electrical cables, fill any large gaps where air could come in or beads go out with expanding foam, then pour the beads in.

I know that in walls this is normally mixed with a bonding agent, and have seen a suggestion of a weak pva mix on one thread. As I am pouring in from the top, would this still be necessary? I would be able to leave floor open for a while to give it a chance to settle then top up.

Any comments pro or against, much appreciated as always.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17801 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17801 Wed, 29 Mar 2023 14:00:26 +0100 Rex
We have one small room (larder) that sometimes, has a presumably, distinct sewerage smell.

There can only be one source, but it has me flummoxed.

The down pipe from the toilet is show in the photo. It goes through around 9 cms of screed, 150 cms of insulation and 150 cms of poured concrete, with an elbow to take the flow under the garage to the front of the garage.

The wall on the left is the kitchen with the sink drainage from the top. The wall behind is the larder which is where we have the smell. The toilet area does not smell whatsoever.

There is no evidence of any leakage or dampness on the floor, there are no holes anywhere. Unfortunately, internal viewing access is rather limited or more likely, virtually impossible.

Beneath the slab is just limited crawl space with no access, it was never filled with soil. If in the worst case, the pipe has disconnected and emptying sewerage onto the earth, I cannot see how the smell would only be in one small room.

I frequently flush the pipe to ensure there is no blockage and it always clears clears and flushing the toilet reveals that all is OK.

Grateful for any thoughts]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17804 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17804 Sat, 01 Apr 2023 10:15:40 +0100 djh
I'd guess there's some strange HTML (or spam or malware?) been uploaded that has blown Vanilla 1.0.3's little brain.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17805 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17805 Mon, 03 Apr 2023 08:17:04 +0100 thebeacon
I have a question about breaking the thermal bridge of my metal sip panels at the roof and wall junction.

I have been designing my garden room using Kingspan QuadCore Insulated Composite Roof Panels (KS1000RW) (https://www.steelroofsheets.co.uk/products/kingspan-ks1000rw-quadcore-insulated-composite-panels/) sitting onto the timber frame. The timber frame has 90mm pir insulation in it. The walls then have a 70mm Kingspan Quadcore AWP Micro-Rib Wall Panels externally cladding to reduce the thermal bridging in the walls (https://www.steelroofsheets.co.uk/products/ks1000mr-kingspan-micro-rib-composite-panels/).

I have overlooked the junction of the roof and wall and have realised that there will be a thermal bridge between on the underside of the roof panel going from the inside of the room to the overhang of the roof on the exterior. I have thought of a few ideas to solve this, but would like to know if anyone has any thoughts or suggestions?

The ideas I have thought of:

1. Cut the underside of the SIP with a circular saw just deep enough so it only cuts the metal. Make this cut where the panel hits the middle of the bearing wall. The only metal skin removed is the width of the saw cut. The roof panels are attached and supported with matching metal from the SIP supplier screwed to the outside of the wall and the bottom side of the roof panel. The metal is bent to match the angle created by the intersection of the wall and roof panel. My concern with this is the structural integrity of the panels. The overhang at the front of the room is no more than 700mm and I don’t intend to stand on it.

2. Insulate the underside of the overhang on the outside with 30mm pir. This would essentially insulate the area that would cause the thermal bridge.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17819 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17819 Fri, 21 Apr 2023 09:23:18 +0100 DavidND
We are moving in a max of three years so I want to do the best vfm job I can to deliver a usable space for the next owners. My 'idea' is that I build a solid wall to the north side, replace the roof with a solid one and highly insulate floor, roof & walls to make it the usable space it needs to be.

Has anyone done anything similar? What was your experience like? What do I need to consider? Got any advice?

Thanks
David :cool:

btw if this is in the wrong place pls feel free to move it :bigsmile:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17791 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17791 Wed, 22 Mar 2023 14:48:07 +0000 Rex
Have been renewing the silicone around the bath tiles and to get a neat finish around the tap, I removed it. And while in my hands, decided to give it a clean, including the bit that is arrowed.

Unfortunately, I cannot actually remove it as years of (soft) water have kinda 'welded' it in place. Apart from taking a Dremel to it, what suggestions for removal? I guess now it is also somewhat distorted which probably only makes it more difficult to remove.

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17813 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17813 Sun, 16 Apr 2023 11:48:33 +0100 cc64 I'm in the process of exposing the sub dpc walls down to foundation level on my early 1990 terrace in preparation for installing some EWI.

In the process I've exposed several 100mm plastic drains. One superficial (~ centred about 300mm below GL) pipe taking low from a gutter downpipe, had some token peashingle (rounded not sharp), if nothing like the 100mm alaround as suggested by NHBC docs. The other two are soil/sewer, deeper (~80mm below dpc, 65mm below GL) have not a hint of any such bedding nor sidefill nor backfill - they're just embedded in rubbly subsoil. Has guidance changed or is this yet more corner/costs cutting in evidence?

Each of these soil/sewer pipes has also been supported on bricks, again counter to current NHBC guidance ("Bricks, blocks or other hard material should not be used as temporary supports to achieve the correct gradients, as they may create hard spots which can distort the completed pipe run."). I despair.

For reasons that probably don't need spelt out I'm reluctant to mess with the obvious deficiencies of these two; they've been in place for 30 years, not broken, so don't fix them.

When it comes to infill time I can setup some temporary shuttering around each to reinstate 100mm pipe bedding gravel alaround each. Does that seem an adequate pragmatic approach to their otherwise inadequate installation?

Lastly these two were left generous 550mm wide gaps to emerge through. These were filled with 3 applications of coarse (ie big aggregate) concrete. Each application slumped to protrude beyond the face of the surrounding blocks - not great for EWI skirt application. I've knocked off these protuberant bits but this does leave me with some fairly substantial voids. I'm thinking to fill these with non-slumping concrete. The cumulative experience here might have better ideas. Happy to hear these.

If someone can tell me what photoimagesize is accepted here I can post a pic. It didn't like my phone default 3Meg photo

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16086 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16086 Fri, 05 Apr 2019 15:39:00 +0100 Artiglio Pulling up the floor and redoing it, removing the tanking are neither economical or practical.
Its been suggested a french drain along the wall will at least prevent the wall getting any wetter and repointing with lime will help the wall dry out a little over time.

Plan is for a 600mm wide trench along the wall to 100mm below the concrete floor level, a studded dpm against the wall , a geotextile in the trench then backfilled , suggestion is to use cockle shells ( available locally) as this will give plenty of air space and quick drainage.

The wall will then be repointed in lime.

The homeowner understands that this will not make any immediate improvement , but that it should prevent further water being sucked into the wall and over time allow the wall to dry out a bit.

Is this a sensible way forward? Being a diy project its not overly expensive . Any suggestions to improve or new ideas?

TIA]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17812 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17812 Sun, 16 Apr 2023 10:55:45 +0100 cc64 Regular visitors here may have noted my travails to fix a failure of screen inside my entrance door, which broke over the fulcrum provided by an embedded mains gas pipe lying direct on the blocks of the beam & block ground floor.

While cutting some XPS to reinstate some insulation I (suddenly, belatedly) realised I'd come across no DPM anywhere within this floor assembly. I was under the impression BC would insist on a DPM being in place. Am I mistaken?

It doesn't seem to be a problem. The ground floor has been a (cheap) engineered wood for ages and no sign of damp has been seen]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15130 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15130 Wed, 14 Jun 2017 08:17:01 +0100 Silky
apparently the cladding went up like a match stick.. I wonder what type of insulation was under there, if it was Polystyrene then surely this is a major FU!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17783 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17783 Fri, 17 Mar 2023 22:19:01 +0000 bgasparotto
As we progress throughout our rooms, we are now planning the bathroom of our Victorian/Edwardian house with solid brick walls.

After removing fittings, tiles and some paint, we uncovered what seems to be gypsum plaster and a bit of cement render, which is cracking and all patchy so we are planning to remove it and start again from the bare brick. This external wall (please see the picture) is where the insulation and bathtub + shower would be going and the window size reduced to half of what it is now.

We are aware that these types of houses need to breath so as we insulate the internal walls (EWI not an option), we will be using wood fibre boards throughout the rest of the house. But does that also apply for bathrooms (wet rooms)? If so, what would be an adequate tiling option on top of the insulation? We wonder if bathroom walls still need to be breath or whether we should make it water tight and rely on ventilation for the exchange of moisture.

We are quite new on retrofitting so we still don't understand whether we draw the line on breathability on kitchens/bathrooms or the same approach (IWI with wood-fibre + lime plaster) should be religiously applied on the entire house.

Any advices are welcome! We wish you all a lovely weekend :))]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17803 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17803 Fri, 31 Mar 2023 12:35:17 +0100 fostertom Seems like a no-brainer - interesting that it has to be tested and OK'd - and that half of it still has to be 'new'.
"Recycled concrete has been produced before in other places, but testing is required in each region because of local differences in how the concrete is made"
"the protocol they had established could be used in other countries rebuilding from war and other disasters"]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17796 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17796 Sun, 26 Mar 2023 23:01:59 +0100 zak99
We need to replace our broken concrete driveway and also provide a separate hardstanding for parking/working on a vehicle etc

Other than the usual concrete, block paving, slabs, gravel are there any other lowish impact surfaces I may not be aware of please?

Permaculture garden designer suggested gravel and sleepers for the drive or gravel with random planting in the gravel but she is hard to nail down on the details. Like will a wheelie bin or wheel barrow pull through the gravel or how do I do low nutrient random planting with type 1 sub base or will the sleepers be slippery in winter. My wife would like to break up the gravel expanse with some sparse slabs but designer feels gravel will always end up on top of slabs.

For the hard standing beside the garage I may possibly be able to reuse some old slabs but wondered if there are other lowish impact materials for a new surface?

Whats your experience please?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17797 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17797 Tue, 28 Mar 2023 00:17:39 +0100 mitchino
It all sounds great, we'd love to wean ourselves off kerosene, but have so far baulked at the cost and limitations of heat pumps etc, but how great is HVO? Greenwash or Hogwash, the future or a dead duck? Pros and Cons please!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17788 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17788 Mon, 20 Mar 2023 18:34:29 +0000 Devlin
I should be having some new double glazed uPVC windows installed in about 1.5 months. I know if left to their own devices the installers will do the bear minimum - ACME expanding foam round the edges and finish with a trim. I want a better job done so been looking at alternatives. One of them is this expanding foam which is a little pricey:

https://www.partel.co.uk/product/conpreseal-3v-bg1/

Alternatively this expanding foam doesn’t look too bad:

http://www.soudalairtight.com/INT/raam_schuim.html

Has anyone used any of these products or similar? Is it worth spending the £130 on the expanding foam tape when this expanding foam will do?

Thanks]]>