Tue, 19 Dec 2023 03:52:28 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17972 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17972 Tue, 26 Sep 2023 22:22:39 +0100 Pete23 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17969 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17969 Sat, 23 Sep 2023 14:08:37 +0100 bhommels
:cry:]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17966 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17966 Thu, 21 Sep 2023 17:06:22 +0100 blubb
I am looking to retrofit EWI to a 1927 solid wall brick house. I am a little bit puzzled:

- One company is suggesting to use Kingspan K5 boards [1], which are rated for outside he claims. The downside here is that K5 only comes in thicknesses up to 70 mm.

- Another company is planning to use Kingspan K103 boards [2], which are rated "water-repellent" but classed as floor boards. The upside here is that these boards come in larger thickness.

The first company with a better overall package is refusing to install K103 and insist on K5.

I should add that the insulation will go under Weber silicone-based render.

Opinions?

Many thanks!

[1] https://ewistore.co.uk/shop/external-wall-insulation/k5-kingspan-external-wall-insulation-board-0-72m%C2%B2/?attribute_pa_size=60mm&mh_matchtype=&mh_keyword=&mh_adgroupid=&mh_network=x

[2] https://www.insulationexpress.co.uk/k103-100mm]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17961 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17961 Tue, 19 Sep 2023 13:50:13 +0100 Rex
The area I live in leafy Surrey(!) is undergoing quite a substantial new housing building program.

One local 'field' listed on the government web site as flood plain with once in 100 year chance of flooding, will have around 100 new houses built.

The Trust Pilot highly rated builder, Taylor Wimpey is about to open the show home.
Reading the other thread regarding EPC rating, I would guess this house will be B+ or even A. But having watched it being built, i cannot understand how that could ba achieved?

But of more interest to me, is the 'design' waste.' The show house does not have a fire place or stove but for whatever 'design' reasons, it does have a fibreglass chimney. My house does not have a fireplace or stove, and I did not fit a chimney.

Obviously just a sales gimmick. Seems very strange and unnecessary cost, but what do I know?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17965 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17965 Thu, 21 Sep 2023 12:42:50 +0100 greenfinger
I bought some 24x14 slates for a repair. They mostly already have four holes. Are they still ok to re-use? I know I have to make new holes when fitting them.

Just to add, the new holes will be lower as they're going on a roof with 20x12s. I'm just using these at the abutment, where I'll cut them down to 20" in length, but needed the 2 extra inches to reach the wall. They are a bit thicker mind, but being at the end I'm hoping they'll be ok (unless anyone thinks otherwise?).

There's also one slate with a diagonal crack/line visible on both sides. It rings ok when tapped and seems sound. Is it ok to use?

Speaking of ringing, one clearly rattles when tapped, so won't use that. The rest do ring and reverberate in the hand, but it's quite a low ring. I've got other slates from another yard that ring higher and longer. Is that normal?

A link to some photos:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dKah_oULvamtboKW9kKQ4Bcr-sDWaoMF?usp=sharing

Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17967 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17967 Thu, 21 Sep 2023 20:49:35 +0100 tony
I said insulate the floor 150mm 100mm batts with 50mm EPS, and IWI 80mm PIR, draughtproofing, secondary glazing, insulate bay roof

What is the difference gas heated 7 days and 7 evenings 21C, night time 14C

Any guesstimates or do we need more info]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17964 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17964 Wed, 20 Sep 2023 14:04:03 +0100 DannySheffield
Will the limewash stay on alright if it doesn't dry out fully, or is it worth pursuing drying it fully once, before it inevitably gets damp again through the winter?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17925 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17925 Thu, 17 Aug 2023 13:07:44 +0100 lineweight
Therefore there is a potential cold bridge where the steel column passes through the insulation layer in the floor. In the case of a beam&block suspended floor, this insulation layer is inevitably some height above the foor of the column.

Looks to me like there are two obvious strategies - one is to add a thermal break at the foot of the column and then wrap the column in insulation up to the floor insulation level, and the other is to try and place a thermal break in the column in line with the floor insulation. Have tried to indicate these in the scribbly drawing attached.

This is not the first thread on here, asking essentially this question. Previous threads from 5 or 10 years back indicate that even trying to do this is regarded as unnecessary or overkill by, eg. structural engineers and builders.

My main question, really, is does anyone have recent experience of this view changing at all? When in the title I say "sensible" approach what I mean is one that has a reasonable chance of being accepted in real life on a job without a massive budget, and not being built to passivhaus standards or suchlike.

If so - even if it's a bit of a compromise - what kind of details have you managed to use in this scenario?

Basically I don't want to waste lots of time overthinking something that is just going to get value-engineered out, when we get to site.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17952 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17952 Fri, 15 Sep 2023 13:16:34 +0100 GarethC
We're trying to develop a more easily-installed form of secondary glazing specifically for outsize single glazed windows common in high street shops, cafes etc..

This kind of property should lose a greater proportion of heat through their windows, and therefore upgrading the windows should reduce heating costs and emissions by a relatively large amount.

I've engaged an energy assessor to produce an EPC for a helpful cafe that has agreed to be a guinea pig. He will produce a pre and post secondary glazing EPC rating.

He's not able to help me estimate the financial savings the cafe would realistically expect to enjoy. This particular cafe uses oil filled electric radiators exclusively, and has massive windows, so we're hoping that the figures are quite substantial.

Can anyone advise how I can go about coming up with a realistic estimate of financial savings? Can't find a calculator online....

Greatly appreciate any help. Thank you!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17918 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17918 Sun, 06 Aug 2023 12:03:35 +0100 gustyturbine http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17944 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17944 Fri, 08 Sep 2023 11:11:34 +0100 tychwarel http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17959 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17959 Tue, 19 Sep 2023 10:20:37 +0100 TimSmall
Pro Clima DB+ - Intelligent airtight membrane made from paper.

Each roll: 50 metres * 1.35 metres.

non-plastic alternative to Pro Clima Intello etc.

£95 each (under half price).

Location: Brighton. Can be put on a courier at cost.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17955 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17955 Sat, 16 Sep 2023 13:28:13 +0100 Dur I am finally getting close to fitting my mvhr unit.
It has this cryptic diagram on top
I presume it shows flow direction but apart from not knowing which is external and which internal, it does not seem to agree with the picture in the install guide.
Can anyone enlighten me?
Thanks very much!!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17949 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17949 Tue, 12 Sep 2023 21:01:00 +0100 greenfinger
I've finished installed soakers to my slate roof at a wall abutment, and I've cut the chase above ready for the flashing. The chase isn't mega straight, especially the bottom line This is mostly due to bits of stone and mortar falling away. And partly lack of skill ;) On top of that, the vertical bit of wall that will be behind the flashing undulates and is anything but flat.

I've dressed the soaker upstands tight to the wall. Should I do the same with the flashing or does it not need to be dressed so tightly?

Also, I was planning to keep the bottom of the flashing about 10mm above the slates. The upstand would then be around 115mm, with 35mm tucked into the chase. Where the chase is lower than 115mm, does it matter? IE - with the lead at 115mm upstand, but the bottom line of the chase only 100mm, there will be a small void behind the lead. Is that ok as is? Or should I look to pack it somehow?

I hope this all makes sense! It's been a long day. I'll try and add some photos shortly.

Any advice much appreciated.



Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17947 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17947 Tue, 12 Sep 2023 11:31:39 +0100 adamsmith
Now I am not sure how to insulate/ detail this. Above the door there is a flitch plate beam door, thus no stud void for PIR like the rest of the timber frame. For this reason, I am particularly concerned with condensation risk in this area. Even though we don’t have the heating on yet there was already condensation on the back of the multi-foil (lucky the VCL seemed to be doing its job and the timber was dry.)

There is only about 25mm depth in the reveals, so I am considering 12mm PIR, then 12mm plasterboard. I am also considering removing the multi-foil from the wall above the door and replacing this with 50mm insulation-backed plaster board, and a new VCL?

Does anyone have any advice on how to insulate door reveals/ heads when there is little space?

Many Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17934 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17934 Sat, 26 Aug 2023 16:46:08 +0100 Victorianeco
They attended without us being there, I told them before they produce the report that the following has been done:

*All light fittings are LED
*90mm External wall insulation to rear elevation complete
*50mm kingspan Internal wall insulation to front elevation to retain facade
*150mm kingspan insulation to ground floor kitchen, hallway
*500mm EPS beads to lounge and dining room
*125mm kingspan insulation to attic (50mm in-between rafters, 75mm below)
*Air source heat pump running wet underfloor heating and oversized radiators. Flow temperature is set to 35c throughout property at design temperature of -3c
*Danfoss TRV's to all rooms with radiators
*Danfoss wireless stats to rooms with radiators
*A rated glass to all windows


He came back with he can only evidence what he can 'photograph'

Where do I stand to ensure the EPC is accurate?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17957 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17957 Sun, 17 Sep 2023 14:28:04 +0100 DannySheffield
I know asbestos is a possibility, so I'll send a sample off to make sure. Assuming it's asbestos-free - any advice on removing the insulation please? I can't see how I'll get rid of the mouldy plywood without getting rid of the insulation.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17951 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17951 Wed, 13 Sep 2023 16:55:23 +0100 borpin
Basically, if you ban the fitting of boilers, and force the installation of HPs and require EV Charging, the local infrastructure requires more power and the Grid cannot support it.

They cite a development near us that the initial planning was for 8MVA but it now needs 35MVA. They can only get a 15MVA connection from the grid.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17950 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17950 Wed, 13 Sep 2023 07:44:43 +0100 englishjohn
Built around 1970, brick, block and apppox 50mm filled cavity.

Initially my money is going on squaring the property off with dome some extensions.

Externally insulation applied to the property.

The BI has said i can build a cavity as we have currently and then external insulate to meet reg as i wish to do the whole house, or single skin block 190mm block and insulate — any thoughts on the preferred?

I was also looking at Marmox thermoblocks as a whole retrofit -crazy? Would these need to be added to the internal and external skin, it doesn't look like the do a block wide enough to bridge the cavity? This bring me onto the next question.

The other big/massive job I’m considering is smashing the solid concrete floor and installing insulation, which would tie into the Marmox.

If anyone has any initial guidance it would be appreciated.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17933 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17933 Fri, 25 Aug 2023 17:42:54 +0100 djh http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17953 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17953 Fri, 15 Sep 2023 16:46:59 +0100 fostertom Except that a prime reason that big (oil) money is interested in this, is as a way to 'squeeze' or pressurise more oil and gas out of nearly-depleted oil fields.
Almost as barmy as re-manufacturing CCS-captured carbon into new fuel!
Is the availability of captured carbon going to make carbon-fibre into an alternative for steel, other metals and engineering-grade plastics? What happens to carbon-fibre at end-of-life? Doesn't compost, I guess. Does it burn, or oxidise in any other way? As micro-particles, is it dangerous, or in fact nutritious, to wildlife?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17946 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17946 Mon, 11 Sep 2023 15:47:04 +0100 Artiglio
This has been put out by our esteemed leaders

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/damp-and-mould-understanding-and-addressing-the-health-risks-for-rented-housing-providers/understanding-and-addressing-the-health-risks-of-damp-and-mould-in-the-home--2#identifying-and-addressing-damp-and-mould-in-your-property

In which a bold statement is made

As this guidance also makes clear, tenants should not be blamed for damp and mould. Damp and mould in the home are not the result of ‘lifestyle choices’, and it is the responsibility of landlords to identify and address the underlying causes of the problem, such as structural issues or inadequate ventilation.

Of course this guidance ignores the effects of high energy costs leading to tenants choosing to heat their homes to lower temps , which has led to a surge in damp/ mould issues.

As a landlord who has improved my properties to EPC C and never in the past had issues when the tenants have used extractor fans in kitchen and bathroom , i’m now left open to endless grief in tenants choose not to use extractors and i can’t (if the guidance is applied to the word) say the problem is solved if they use them and need to find another solution.

To get ahead of the inevitable, i want a solution i can employ asap if needed. All my properties are flats, top floor flats i could fit mvhr easily enough if at a considerable cost ( and attendant increase in rent to tenant) but my mid floor flats are more problematic. PIV seems the only real solution to my mind.

Any thoughts?

Many thanks phil]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17939 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17939 Sat, 02 Sep 2023 15:15:16 +0100 Rex
Been following the RAAC / schools closure topic with interest.

While not unduly concerned for myself as my house is timber framed but the external rendered walls are thermolite block.

What is the difference between this RAAC stuff and thermolite blocks? Obviously my walls are not load bearing but I would hate to think that they will crumble in time, albeit, probably long after I have gone.

Your thought are most welcome

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17940 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17940 Sun, 03 Sep 2023 16:40:24 +0100 greenfinger
I'm going to be stripping slates and putting in new lead soakers with a flashing next week. It's a stone wall, so the flashing will be a straight diagonal line, parallel to the top of the roof.

At the bottom, the roof extends beyond the wall by a few inches. What's the normal way to detail that? I've had a look online but not been able to find anything....

Many thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16079 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16079 Wed, 27 Mar 2019 21:41:07 +0000 jon
Sorry haven't contributed much to forum for last few years

Here's a twitter thread describing how things have gone so far. GBB gets a mention right at the start. I've done this from a tweet that the Institution of Civil Engineers retweeted (if only to show that it's real and not some just made up twitter thread)

https://twitter.com/ICE_SEEngland/status/1110648724672385025]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14218 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14218 Wed, 27 Apr 2016 12:50:14 +0100 Victorianeco
Ideally we would like to install an AC unit, the building is of solid wall construction, single glazed windows, air tightness is probably poor. Without spending loads on insulation etc as we are only renting, what are our air conditioning and heating options?

I'd estimate the volume of the shop including the cellar to be 385m3

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17945 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17945 Sat, 09 Sep 2023 13:31:53 +0100 Victorianeco
I'm thinking of requesting a fleet of electric vans...

Any idea how best to approach this?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17941 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17941 Tue, 05 Sep 2023 11:40:51 +0100 greenfinger
Following my recent threads, I've started work today and am removing slates at a wall abutment to put in lead soakers and flashing.

Am I missing something obvious or is my only option to use a slate ripper and then use tingles (or hooks) when I put them back on?

I had planned to remove two or three vertical rows of slates, and - stupidly perhaps - thought that by starting at the top I could access all nails to remove them without a ripper, and when putting the slates back on re-nail them to the battens. But now I'm up there it seems in order to that I would have to remove the slates in an ever increasing triangle to access all the nails and battens.

Am I overlooking something? Or is a ripper (to take off) and tingles/hooks (to put back on) the only option to avoid removing a tonne of slates?

Many thanks

PS - from what I've read I'd favour using hooks rather than tingles.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17943 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17943 Wed, 06 Sep 2023 09:46:53 +0100 borpin
https://twitter.com/NobleFrancis/status/1699340045449035859?s=20

Stopped rising but 40% higher than pre-pandemic prices (ouch).]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17937 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17937 Fri, 01 Sep 2023 13:54:46 +0100 Doubting_Thomas
I'm currently modelling a Victorian industrial building in PHPP to assess retrofit options. It dates to the 1870's and has single glazed iron frame windows.

Can anyone recommend a resource where I might find g-values of historic glass from this era?

There's a few numbers online for estimated u-values, but surprisingly little on the other performance figures. Given there must have been fewer types of glass back then (no coatings etc.) I assumed there might be a reasonably standard figure to assume.

All suggestions welcome!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17936 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17936 Wed, 30 Aug 2023 09:21:17 +0100 randomRobin New forum member here.
We will be getting underfloor insulation added to our suspended wooden floor in a few weeks. I have a couple of questions about the access hatches. We currently have decent floorboards with a few hatches already cut from the previous owner of varying quality. They are generally two floor boards wide and 500mm long or so, see pictures.

1) I'm wondering about what to do about insulating these? What is recommended?
The best thing I can think of just now is to ask the installers to put blocks of insulation under the boards that can be removed if required.
I'd want to keep access to the underfloor area for future servicing of cables, pipes etc, and also to be able to show the EPC assessor the insulation.

2) The hatch in the kitchen is not in a great state as the boards have gaps between and wobble. See the photos attached. Is there an easy way to improve this?

Plan is sheep's wool held by netting.
House is ~1900 with decent depth void (800mm to 1m). Solid stone walls.
Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17938 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17938 Fri, 01 Sep 2023 14:09:18 +0100 PaulEdwin
I will leave the refurbishment of our heating system for a future owner but wanted to start a discussion to explore how this heating product is best dealt with for a low carbon house.

There are three options that I have thought of, starting with the first – rip out the ducting and replace the gas heater with an air source heat pump and new radiators (and all the new pipework!). This would be a disruptive building operation, not only due to the routing of new pipework, but also the removal of the vertical ducting between ground and first floor would then require substantial redecoration.

Could a heat exchanger replace the gas heater? This would need new heat extraction ducts installed in the loft and ground floor ceiling spaces. The permeability of the building envelope may have to be checked and remedied if leaking. There is also a question of whether the existing supply ducts are correctly sized.

For my third option I wondered if an air-to-air heat pump could replace the gas heater and supply warm or cool air through existing ducts? This would avoid the need for an extraction system as above.

I forgot to mention that we have 8kW capacity solar panels installed on a SSW facing roof.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17578 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17578 Sun, 25 Sep 2022 10:20:45 +0100 kaicasswell
thank you in advance.
Kai]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17923 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17923 Mon, 14 Aug 2023 21:41:12 +0100 greenfinger
I’m hoping to install a ventilated ridge soon and after reading up there’s a few things I’m unsure about. I wondered if anyone could help please?

The roof is Welsh slate and has stone/concrete ridge tiles (not sure which m but they are the old type). There is ventilation already at the soffits. In case it’s relevant, the roof has sarking boards, and the felt is the old style black stuff (1f?) laid directly onto the boards.

1. Should slates be cut flush to or proud of the top battens? Strangely, at the moment the slates are cut flush on one side, but on the other they overshoot the batten by around 75mm.

2. What is a good size gap to have between the top battens at the ridge? Currently they are 105mm apart. Does that sound ok?

3. How much do ridge tiles need to overlap the slates by? The current overlap is 97mm on one side (where the slates are cut flush) and 155mm on the other (where the slates overshoot).

4. The existing felt fully crosses over at the ridge. I’m presuming this would need to be cut to create an air gap, but am I right? If so, how much to cut and remove?

5. And finally, any recommendations for a good ventilated ridge system? I want something that is effective but also that won’t look too out of place on an old house with Welsh slate. Obviously it will need to fit/overlap the slates sufficiently, given the above dimensions. And also, because we live in a very rural area, it would need to keep vermin and insects out!

Happy to upload photos and get any more details that might help with the answers.

Thanks a million for reading. I’ve been trying to answer these questions as best I can but not having much luck, so any help would be fantastic.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17827 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17827 Mon, 01 May 2023 21:45:27 +0100 mzthomps http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17921 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17921 Wed, 09 Aug 2023 15:33:46 +0100 WillInAberdeen
Instead of the current A-G bands based on £/m² costs of heating, the new EPCs will show:

- heat loss on A-G scale (irrespective of how that heat is supplied or collected)
- cost on A-G scale
- heating system classification IE "zero emissions" or "not zero emissions"

Buried deeper in the EPC will be:

- CO2 emissions A-G scale
- external energy purchased in kWh per m² (including for lighting, hot water etc)



The gas boiler people are angry because gas heated houses currently have good EPCs because gas is cheap, their EPCs will suddenly get several bands worse when they become based on heat loss.

The heat pump and PV and passivhaus people are angry because the "heat loss" metric doesn't reward renewable heat or passive gains, compared to fossil heat.

The EPC validity will be for five years instead of ten. More details about the house will be published online than currently, to enable searches.

Still using rdSAP data from 2012. Maybe moving up to SAP11 when that comes out.

Rental properties still require EPC band D by 2025 and band C by 2028.


https://www.gov.scot/publications/energy-performance-certificate-epc-reform-consultation/documents/]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17935 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17935 Tue, 29 Aug 2023 09:35:56 +0100 GreenPaddy
I need to convince a client to do as much EWI as possible, and want to show examples where the front facade is left as stone, but the sides are EWI'd. The images don't have to be EWI sides, just showing the side rendered would give the idea, and that it's not unusual.

Any assistance with locating these type of photo's would be greatly appreciated.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17926 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17926 Sun, 20 Aug 2023 19:33:53 +0100 mzthomps http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17932 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17932 Wed, 23 Aug 2023 20:50:55 +0100 djh
How does building control work for DfE schools? How can nobody have noticed serious structural problems for four years and five schools?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17931 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17931 Wed, 23 Aug 2023 19:35:20 +0100 RobinB
Tangentially I'm considering a 60kWh vehicle (BYD Dolphin if you're wondering) with a ticket price of £31k and V2L (vehicle to load) facility.

So the car has 10x capacity of home battery and V2L functionality for only 5x the price? Plus I'd have a car. Can I just have a car?

Hmm. What am I missing? How will UK utilities handle V2L? Might I need a home battery as a staging post?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17928 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17928 Mon, 21 Aug 2023 17:19:24 +0100 GreenApprentice
Following a little research, this is our current approach:

- fit the celotex or similar wall-to-wall
- Put an airtight membrane on top of the insulation - will heavy duty polythene sheet be ok, or is there a recommended better alternative
- fold it up the old plastered wall / plaster boarded walls (we have split a large room with stud walls) then tape it before plastering over it
- float the chipboard floor panels on top of the polythene leaving a small gap for expansion

I see the stud work as a thermal bridge through the insulation and also compromising air tightness, should we insulate inside the bottom of the stud wall?

We will airtight tape any electrical wire that comes up through the floor into the wall.

Is there anything else sensible that we can do to mitigate air coming up from the floor into the stud wall between the wood frame and plasterboard? I guess we could put some kind of double sided tape on the wood frame before fixing the plasterboard.

Anyone done something similar and have any product suggestions?

Thanks in advance]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16054 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16054 Mon, 04 Mar 2019 10:29:08 +0000 lineweight
Generally they want a fully supported solid base at least the depth of the window frame itself, which seems to mean concrete/masonry spanning from inside to out. I previously tried to deal with this in a primarily timber framed design using a timber joist/ply box type arrangement but in the end the installers didn't like it, and demanded tolerances for movement/deflection which the engineer said he couldn't achieve in timber. We ended up using aerated blocks, with perimeter insulation to the floor screed turned up behind it.

Now I'm looking at one where we have a conventional cavity wall, and suspended floor. The base of the sliders will need to bridge the cavity so whatever supports it will also bridge the insulation layer. Is there a best way of doing this?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17930 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17930 Wed, 23 Aug 2023 08:21:28 +0100 alant Can anyone recommend any less toxic (to humans) treatments for timber? I used Borax years ago but can't seem to find it now. Our self build had water damage and the I joists have Black mould on which we want to treat before continuing.
Cheers]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17929 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17929 Tue, 22 Aug 2023 11:18:41 +0100 owlman Does anyone have experience of any particularly good, or indifferent products to avoid?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17927 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17927 Mon, 21 Aug 2023 09:40:34 +0100 Victorianeco
We use Howdens and Wickes for the bulk of our kitchens but looking for an upmarket supplier...

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17915 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17915 Wed, 02 Aug 2023 21:40:44 +0100 Victorianeco
Just the last two days it appears my circulation pumps are both stuck on and the pressure relief valve (there appear to be 3) one of which seems to be bypassing water into the tundish....

The temperature seems to be at 57C when it is usually set to 50C...

What's the fault finding process? Never had an issue in 8 years previous, the only thing I can think of recently was draining the heating system to disconnect a rad. But no other issues.

Thoughts please]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17924 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17924 Thu, 17 Aug 2023 08:52:44 +0100 GreenApprentice
I’ve bought some soudatight LQ (liquid membrane) to paint over the cracks in the plaster before we skim (there are a lot of cracks) and was considering using this over the wall to ceiling junction, which isn’t joined.

Would it be better to tape the junction, I can then paint the rest of the unfinished surface where the coving was with the soudatight before it’s replastered. I’m wondering how difficult it will be to tape the corners, I duct taped some doors to keep dust out and it was a very difficult-to-do-dogs-dinner. I’ve seen prefolded tape but they all seem to be for windows and doors or connecting membranes to surfaces.

The aim is to make the house airtight. Has anyone done something similar and can recommend a product?

Thanks in advance]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17852 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17852 Thu, 01 Jun 2023 09:37:30 +0100 Rex
I do not have a heat pump and from what I have read, do not intend to replace my gas boiler. When we built, they were more expensive than a gas boiler, and as we all know, building budgets can overrun very easily. So gas it was.

Perhaps heat pumps are good if installed at the building stage, and even though my house ticks all the 3g, well insulated, air tight boxes, I do not have available funds to replace the existing boiler, let alone the disruption.

Anyway, there was this interesting article in yesterday's business section of the Telegraph regarding government policy in Germany and the reaction against heat pumps.

Who would want to become a politician?

Toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17922 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17922 Sun, 13 Aug 2023 15:27:14 +0100 WillInAberdeen
Government just published the "UK Biomass Strategy"

Seems pretty opposed to biomass heating for houses:

- HVO should be directed towards aviation (rather than heating or road fuel)

- Woody fuel/pellets should be directed towards biomass power stations with CCS, to reduce unsustainable imports

Possible exceptions for a few rural properties, but heatpumps preferred.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17780 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17780 Wed, 15 Mar 2023 12:52:09 +0000 dovemw
Does anyone have any advice on best way to insulate a piled slab supported by piles for a PH project? The default by the groundworks contractors looks like there will be anti heave measures then insulation under the slab and the slab itself. Is there a solution to avoid thermal bridging where the pile connects to the slab? I assume we could insulate above the slab and then use high compressive strength insulation under the timber frame sole plate to reduce the impact of the cold bridges, is this a good solution?

(I have been looking to see if there are any discussions on piled foundations on this forum and can't find any specific to this hence creating a new discussion.)]]>