Tue, 19 Dec 2023 04:13:08 +0000 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17472 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17472 Fri, 20 May 2022 07:33:09 +0100 Shevek
Which begs the question: who will live longer out of two identical twins? The one living in a comfortable Passivhaus or the one living in a draughty unheated home.

My guess would be the draughty home dweller, unless the Passivhaus dweller took ice baths.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17476 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17476 Wed, 25 May 2022 08:33:53 +0100 Charenteman I am about to start planning a second solar thermal installation.
My current installation (which works admirably) has a twin pipe arrangement with stats for incoming/outgoing flows incorporating pump, pressure relief, flow rate, and air collector/purge.
A single line pump is a lot cheaper/slimmer but then there is no incoming stat (not a problem) and no air collector, but I assume I could install a standalone automatic purge elsewhere in the circuit?
Does anyone see a downside to this simpler/cheaper pump station option?
Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17474 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17474 Sun, 22 May 2022 12:15:11 +0100 Victorianeco
Being 120 years old the stones and infill have obviously suffered a lot of freeze thaw weathering.

It's only small 4.5m long X 1.5m high

Our options:

a) screen it off with fence panels but then fixings will be an issue and will lose minor space in front

b) knock it down complete and build in blockwork would need to be 2m high so I guess would need new footings and be block on flat or have piers accordingly

c) Knock down and install modern style fence panels with posts accordingly

Our neighbour is happy to pay half but just wondering what approach3 others would take.

Our end design would be to have our side of the wall or fence covered in a climbing plant suitable for an East facing wall

Any other suggestions?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17473 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17473 Fri, 20 May 2022 10:36:27 +0100 Mike1
Although they're allowing electric-gas hybrid boilers, and there's an exemption for homes that are not suitable, or that will be connected to another alternative to natural gas in the short term (for example, a heat network)

Unlike the UK's supposed plans, their also banning replacement gas boilers from the same date, not just for new build.

According to the original press release, industry will be opening 3 new heat-pump factories, plus centres in every region of the country, and they'll be developing training courses, assessment tools and quality standards. They seem to be taking this rather more seriously than the UK.

https://www.euractiv.com/section/energy-environment/news/netherlands-to-ban-fossil-heating-by-2026-make-heat-pumps-mandatory/
https://www.rijksoverheid.nl/actueel/nieuws/2022/05/17/hybride-warmtepomp-de-nieuwe-standaard-vanaf-2026]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17469 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17469 Sun, 15 May 2022 08:27:47 +0100 kristeva
Can anyone recommend an online BTU calculator they used to purchase radiators that have proved fairly accurate?

I've noticed many online calculators seem to give widely varying results. For my small bedroom I've had figures ranging from 2200 to 5000. I know some take into account more details than others, like window size, spaces above and below.

I also found this 'old school' advice on a forum last night:

30 odd years ago I was told to calculate the cubic feet of a room,and multiply by 5 for living rooms,and 4 for bedrooms.With double glazing and better insulation this is probably over adequate BTU sizing,and the thermostatic valves will control the temperature.For example a bedroom 13 feet x 12 feet x 7.5 feet = 1170 cubic feet,needing a radiator of 4680 btu.

Maybe this is a safer bet. Cheers.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17467 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17467 Wed, 11 May 2022 16:53:58 +0100 djh
I'm looking for a concise explanation of the process involved and the sources of the data so ideally I can reproduce the calculation for our house for myself.

edit: Just to be clear I'm talking about the 'industry standard' process used by suppliers rather than the simple sums used by comparison sites etc.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17431 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17431 Wed, 30 Mar 2022 08:33:04 +0100 Shevek
And what are the most common reasons to avoid cheap alternatives? I presume longevity, anti-tear resistance, flexibility and strong adhesive are the main factors? Have you had any bad experiences with tape?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17466 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17466 Sat, 07 May 2022 15:40:10 +0100 marsaday
The the water entered the gully and then drained away out through the outlet. This probably blocked up over 20 yrs ago as it had a big holly tree root growing in it.

I have swapped out the damaged gully and a bit of clay pipe for new plastic so all good now.

The damp wall now has salt coming out. So am i right in thinking the wall is drying if the salts are now showing through ?

If so what is the best course of action. I know we need to take off the plaster and recoat with a salt blocking plaster, but do we wait a year or do we just go ahead and do it now. The wall is not offending anyone or causing a visual issue.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17465 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17465 Fri, 06 May 2022 21:04:58 +0100 richo106
I have been getting some quotes regarding our windows, doors and sliding doors

The supplier has said that our 6m sliding door would have to be double glazed due to size and weight and was unsure if the gearing would take the weight.

I just wondered if this is standard for a sliding door of this size? We are focussed on good energy efficiency/ air tightness but not passivehaus standard.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17449 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17449 Fri, 15 Apr 2022 14:27:19 +0100 Rex
Starting another thread but the topic is similar (ish) as this is about insurance rather than the best fix. My previous is http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17394&page=1#pgbottom

Had a number of quotes for the repair; most of the cost is due to poor access, plus that fact that the original verge was available here in the UK but is no longer. Total repair costs around £2k. or probably less.

Made an insurance claim and after a few weeks, receive an email from the underwriters, asking for a valuation for the house. Last time I had that done was soon after completion, 12 years ago. Cannot speak with the underwriters as they do not speak to clients!!!! They did not like my estimate based on the value from 12 years and what can be found on the web; had to get a local agent.

Then they queried why the valuation is so much greater than the insured rebuild cost. Of course, my explanation is that the valuation is what the market will pay for my house, not the rebuild cost, which would be less.


Yesterday, another e-mail as follows:

I am emailing because our underwriting department have some questions with regards to the phone call you had with one of my colleagues on 11/04 regarding the rebuild costs of the property being in the amount of £800,000. They are wanting to know how you have come to these rebuild costs and are you able to provide documentation so we can validate this?

Another useless phone call to tell them that the rebuild cost has been the same for the past five years and drops within their own guidelines of 700k to one million. furthermore, the letter from the agent pointed out that local rebuild cost in Surrey are around £300 per sq ft and for a 2700 sq.ft house, go figure!!! Additionally, as I have not rebuilt the house recently, how can I provide documentation?

I also pointed out that if it was a £300k maisonette or a £10 million oligarch mansion, the quotes for the roof repair are the same and it will not repair itself.

Not as if I am trying to rip them off for thousands, just want the roof repaired. Would do it myself but age v. height is the issue.

What is wrong with these idiots? (And I do know the answer, they don't want to pay up!)

Toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17374 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17374 Thu, 03 Feb 2022 18:13:03 +0000 Jeff B http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17462 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17462 Sun, 01 May 2022 14:34:24 +0100 bxman
If you have the time to complain you have the time to look for yourself]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17458 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17458 Fri, 22 Apr 2022 19:27:33 +0100 marsaday
What do i use to control it ?

I understand i can fit a programmable timer, but i need the remote facility as well. The flat will also be a holiday let and so for many days of the year it will be empty, so i dont want to be heating HW when no one is using it. So i need to be able to turn on the cylinder say on a friday morning and then leave it running as it would normally do, until the flat is empty again and thats when i would switch it off.

Also i am looking at buying one of these: https://www.heatershop.co.uk/gledhill-stainless-es-unvented-170-litre-cylinder-direct-connection

Are there any better recommendations than this type ? Solar water could possibly be fitted in later years, so I have been told to get a 2 coil unit.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17347 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17347 Tue, 11 Jan 2022 07:50:19 +0000 an02ew
IMO with an AT of above around 2 m3/m2 isnt helped by a continuos extraction and intermittent extraction working as required (probably less than every use of the room) would be more benificial.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17456 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17456 Tue, 19 Apr 2022 10:00:50 +0100 Rex
https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-10728707/Photographs-reveal-weird-construction-solutions-world.html]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17452 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17452 Sun, 17 Apr 2022 16:11:03 +0100 Rex
I have a brick cavity boundary wall (it is mine) that originally, was the wall to the garage. The neighbours side is fine (that was the external wall) but my side (it was the internal) is not so good. The wall is now external on both sides.

My side, many of the bricks are spalling and a lot of the mortar, in patches is loose and easy to poke with a cold chisel. In the past, I had applied a water sealing coat, but it does not last long. It is not decorative, so I am reluctant to remove all the spalling bricks and rake out all the mortar, particularly as a lot of the mortar is pretty solid, but patches are just like dust.

My question is, what is the easiest way to tidy it up and give it a new(ish) lease of life without creating a major job?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17459 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17459 Sat, 23 Apr 2022 10:20:54 +0100 ComeOnPilgrim http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17450 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17450 Sat, 16 Apr 2022 10:22:28 +0100 lineweight
"When you ventilate your apartment by opening windows, you should do it for a short time with a transverse draft, so that the air is replaced quickly without unnecessary heat leaking out."

Obviously, this is advice for "manually" ventilated buildings without any heat recovery systems.

I'm not sure that makes sense. It seems to be suggesting you should rapidly dump a large volume of air outside.

Firstly, isn't the volume of air you shift more important than the speed at which you remove it?

Secondly, my understanding is that ventilation is mainly aimed at reducing levels of CO2 and humidity, and that to some extent, these things can diffuse without the air actually "moving", as such.

Is it not better to strategically open some windows a little, for example, opening a window near the source of humidity, than to open windows on each side of the room?

Of course, in summer it's a different matter because you are not worried about losing heat when you ventilate, so then it does make sense to get a transverse draft going.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17454 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17454 Mon, 18 Apr 2022 14:20:17 +0100 nbishara http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17388 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17388 Sat, 12 Feb 2022 16:57:09 +0000 Kenny_M As pictured, I have a small 5kw stove, within a large exposed stone fireplace. The back wall will be fairly thin single skin stone.

I would like to insulate and reduce the size of the fireplace using rockwool and cement board, but if I did this a section of the black vitreous pipe would be buried behind the cement board/insulation.

Does anyone know if there is any issue with this?

I think I read somewhere that the black pipe needs to be exposed, but not sure why.

Edit: I had some problems attaching photo so have had to go with the links below:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/72njdowh62l8czt/2022-02-12%2016.02.46.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pr9rstkyts8wrao/2022-02-12%2016.03.21.jpg?dl=0

Thanks
Kenny]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17446 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17446 Wed, 13 Apr 2022 09:28:52 +0100 fostertom
"... Italy’s generous superbonus 110% scheme, which has so far cost the government about €21bn (£17.5bn) since launching in July 2020 as part of the country’s post-pandemic recovery strategy"

"... the vast majority of the money coming from the EU’s post-Covid recovery fund ... a “shock tactic” to get the system going in a country with a huge stock of old or poorly constructed buildings"

Like FiTS - I suppose a miracle that happened in UK - hugely succesful, despite its funding source (everyone's electricity bill) making it a retrogressive tax on the poor, for middle class benefit.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17430 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17430 Mon, 28 Mar 2022 14:15:30 +0100 Rex
This was an incoming question and answer on the Quora forum this morning; thought it was interesting:

Why are British houses so badly built?
Brits will never understand this and will keep saying their houses are very well-built, they last for centuries and so on, but as a foreigner, I know very well what you mean.
Yes, houses in Britain do last for centuries. So they’re not badly built in this meaning. It’s more about the quality.
• Insulation is atrocious. Again, Brits will disagree, but when compared to other European countries (especially the ones where we have real winter), insulation is really poor.
• Building materials are often not really good and the emphasis is on price. Internal walls are almost exclusively drywalls, external walls are usually cavity walls using hollow bricks. Blocks like on the picture below (which are very common elsewhere and which are really great in terms of insulation) are rarely seen.

• Windows. Many houses still have those ancient sash windows. Again, please explain how the houses are well insulated with sash windows. Last time I stayed at the hotel, there was a centimetre wide gap even when the window was closed. Besides, I still occasionally get a flyer in my mail advertising double glazing. I thought the rest of Europe was starting to implement triple glazing now…
• Floors are usually made of wood. Honestly, with no exaggeration, I’ve never been to a house where floorboards don’t creak yet. Plus they are sometimes not completely level. But they are usually covered by carpets, so you can’t see it, but still, you often feel the floor is not even. Especially when you’re barefoot.
• Plumbing. This is a chapter on its own, but what shocked me the most is this:

Yes, it’s an old building (but aren’t they all?). It does occur on new ones from time to time as well, though.
• Electrical installation? Very often Brits (especially on Quora) brag about having super safe regulations and the best plug in the world… Well, I’d be careful with the superlatives, but I don’t disagree in general. But a few things are really odd. First of all, pull cords in bathrooms instead of light switches? No, thanks. Then the question of sockets in bathrooms, many people here are convinced that people in countries like Germany, France or Italy are dying every day, because they have sockets in bathrooms. They even have washing machines there! That’s a big no-no in the UK. But a 12kW electric shower directly above the bathtub? Yeah, that’s perfectly normal. But the most peculiar thing these days would be the fact that practically every house here only has one phase. It causes other issues as well, but if we’re pushing on electric vehicles, well, good luck with one phase chargers.
• Garages. They really are called garages, but even the newly built ones will hardly fit a car in.
• One small detail, but quite quintessential. There are virtually no roof overhangs. I understand there is usually no rendering and it doesn’t snow much, but still, I find it personally much better to have some overhang and be able to stay dry when standing at the door looking for a key.
• Then there are small things like separate water taps (the worst invention ever), door handles, funny hinges, no shutters, holes in doors instead of mailboxes and so on.
Of course there are houses that are absolutely spot on, nice and highly practical. Just like anywhere else. But in my opinion, majority of houses have at least some of these issues. And newly built houses usually have no corners left uncut.
I get it, different country, different habits. But surely, when the floor creaks, it shouldn’t be considered normal anywhere! This really gets me, when I was looking for a place to rent, I visited tens of properties. And usually the agent acts like they can’t see it and they have no idea what you’re talking about. You put a bottle on the floor and it rolls away. But they don’t understand why you don’t like it. It seems like everybody got used to mediocrity, or even substandard housing?
I love many things about Britain (especially music and raspberry trifle), overall I enjoy being here. But the quality of the housing stock is in my opinion not something to be proud of. After having lived in three other European countries and visiting many more, I’d say it’s really bad in Britain. Of course it can be (and outside of Europe often is) much worse, but that shouldn’t be a consolation.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13981 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=13981 Wed, 20 Jan 2016 23:27:43 +0000 MikeRumney Has it spawned any other forms or other applications?
Should have done a search first as now see there's been a short thread on this last month ... Still curious though as we have open plan, and no enthusiasm for ducting!
Possibly good tech for cold weather camper van??]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17276 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17276 Mon, 08 Nov 2021 17:37:21 +0000 ComeOnPilgrim
I'm wondering whether there is a benefit in efficiency one way or the other. The system is open vented, so it's pretty low pressure anyway. My feeling is that it would be better for the pump to be on the flow so that it is pushing the water through the ASHP rather than sucking it, but I don't have an obvious logical reason to justify the intuition, other than it would mean the water going through the ASHP is under slightly higher pressure.

Any thoughts?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17439 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17439 Wed, 06 Apr 2022 08:01:35 +0100 richy http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17437 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17437 Tue, 05 Apr 2022 08:59:42 +0100 wholaa
https://www.sustainabilist.com/global-minima/amory-lovins
Video- https://www.cleaningup.live/ep68-amory-lovins-the-einstein-of-energy-efficiency/
Article- https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2022/mar/26/amory-lovins-energy-efficiency-interview-cheapest-safest-cleanest-crisis]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17386 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17386 Thu, 10 Feb 2022 17:19:51 +0000 Rex
The road I live in has recently had optical fibre installed and can now be connected to every house, should they want it.

I kinda want it but .......?

My wife is Japanese and frequently makes calls 'home.' At the moment, we use one of the various CPS (carrier pre-selection) numbers and the calls only cost 3p per minute.

If I sign up to FTTP, BT more of less, remove the cable and I can have VOIP, which apparently, is better. But they cannot tell me the cost per minute of calls to Japan with 'digital voice.' And I am unable to find out if the CPS number will work and offer inexpensive calls.

I have spoken with the CPS company and they are not certain either; basically, try it and see! But if it does not work, I cannot return to copper cable.

My question to the forum, do CPS (carrier pre-selection) numbers work with VOIP?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17433 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17433 Thu, 31 Mar 2022 16:12:38 +0100 Simon Still
Polypipe UFH/Water controlled by a PB2CTC 2 channel time clock. Unlike every other time clock I've so far found, this is powered by 2 AAA batteries and just switches two relays (so there is a live in and return for each of heating and hot water). The time clock, of course, stops working when the batteries run out. And it's so unintuitive to programme and read that no-one can use it.

The wiring centre is not local to the time clock so, while a permanent live to a new time clock is easy enough it would be much easier to install if the wiring at the wiring centre remained the same

Any suggestions for a new, idiot proof, control system? A pair of seperate time clocks labelled 'water and heating ' would be ok, but of course most of these take the form of fused spurs that are designed to send a live and neutral - not just close a relay.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17318 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17318 Thu, 09 Dec 2021 20:53:21 +0000 Victorianeco
All the tradesman are on standard 40hr week on site plus half hour unpaid break each day. Their contracts specifically state it is 8hrs of working time at any of our sites (they are no more than an hour away usually)

I provide the vans and fuel but travel time is becoming a sticking point, they are salaried with above average holidays and pay. The contract is quite specific with '8hrs plus 30mins unpaid lunch at any of our sites' but I want to try and be fair and consistent as we grow. One of the boys seems to think it is from the time he leaves his house to the time he gets home.... Some days they're not even doing 8hrs 30 from home to home. This doesn't bother me so long as the jobs get done but I need to be a bit more firm and consistent across the staff.

I had looked into the CIJC (pink book) and that suggests paying one way travel at single time. Then 8hrs on site Monday to Thursday and 7hrs on site on a Friday. (Plus 30min unpaid break)

Any overtime after the 39hrs (travel time not included) would be paid at 1.5x and same on a Saturday. Double on Sundays. This sounds quite decent and to be fair I base the teams salaries in the CIJC rates plus a small uplift

I did have intentions to offer a 5% discretionary bonus each year which is what a company my friend works for does.

Anyway, does anyone have any good tips for time management of staff without having the headache of timesheets etc?

What is fair?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17394 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17394 Fri, 18 Feb 2022 14:31:42 +0000 Rex
When I built the house, I used Nu Lok (https://nulokroofing.com/uk/) tiles and am very pleased with them. however, NuLok do not have a very good verge solution so had to 'fabricate something.

Used the L shaped metal edging that is usually used as the verge for corrugated roofing. It laps over the tiles by around 120mm and has a vertical drop of a similar measurement. It is not actively 'fixed to the tiles, only nailed to the vertical timber of the roof edge. it has sufficient tile coverage to prevent any water ingress, but as it is not stepped to match the tiles, the wind and dust / leaves can enter.

All been good for ten years until today's storm, when one edge had 'vibrated' the nails out and is dangling, as the photo.

Obviously, I will have to repair. But my question: is there an alternative product that is possible to 'step' to match the steps of the tiles and so give a better seal on the top surface?

Don't really think lead is a goer, but it may be?

As an aside, the facia is uPVC and needs it annual wipe down!

Thanks]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17424 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17424 Sun, 20 Mar 2022 14:09:25 +0000 Shevek http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16834

I made the mistake of leaving out of their package the making good of the reveals and this resulted in a few problems:

A. I insisted they tape the reveals but they used a tape that isn't fully adhered (only a 20 mm edge of the tape is adhered), so it can't be plastered over. There's an air pocket behind the tape and it's kind of taut from window frame to masonry reveal, instead of running at a right-angle to allow for some plaster.
B. The windows are inward opening and the hinge is very close to the edge of the with frame (3-4 mm), so this makes it difficult to run any reveal finishes into the window. (I'm used to external opening windows in the UK and so I hadn't considered this problem).
C. At the head of the window there's no lintel, just the existing plaster (which had/has some reinforcing bars across it) and some insulation foam board behind that. So not much to plaster on to.

JAMBS
After staring at these reveals for months trying to determine how I could fit aluminium or wood reveals, I've decided instead that I should just cut the tape back, redo it with Pro Clima Contega Solida SL and then plaster the reveals. I'll tape onto the 3-4 mm of window frame to the side of the hinge + perhaps a little lap of existing tape across the shim gap that I could leave when I remove the existing tape. There's spray foam in the shim gap but I should perhaps squeeze a polyethylene backer rod in there too, to make sure I have something to push the Contega against.

1. There are a couple of window brackets on each jamb, which means there'll be a zone of plaster that's only a few mm thick. Do I need to put some mesh in there perhaps? Is there any type of plaster particularly suitable to such a thin application?
2. Should I use a corner profile where the reveal meets the main wall, or can I just plaster around that corner without any problems.

HEAD
At the head of the window, where you can see the tape has actually come away from the foam board and plaster, I was thinking about spraying some adhesive in there, push the tape back up, clip a metal lath strip or corner strip over the tape into the foam board or plaster, then plaster over it. Although I'm having a little trouble finding expanded metal lath strips in Portugal.

3. What would be suitable spray adhesive for this?

The alternative would be to do much the same thing but instead of spraying adhesive, cut the existing tape back and add some Contega again. Although how much adhesive I get into the foam board I don't know.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17427 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17427 Wed, 23 Mar 2022 12:05:15 +0000 WillInAberdeen
Coal, oil and gas heating fuels will have the most favourable primary energy factors, around 1.1 .

Electricity will have the least favourable primary energy factor, of 1.5, irrespective whether renewable or not.

So choosing direct electric heating or hot water, will make it more difficult to meet your primary energy target.


If you add insulation, it will reduce your Primary Energy according to the factor of your heating fuel - so adding insulation will be more encouraged in an electric-heated house, than for a gas-heated house.

Changes will not be permitted that increase your Primary Energy, so you cannot switch over say from gas to direct electric heating.


This might discourage electrification of heat, despite electricity now carrying lower carbon emissions than gas. The English regulations will continue to use CO2 emissions and fabric energy efficiency as additional metrics, but the Scottish standards will no longer consider CO2 emissions targets for electrified houses.

In the English consultation, 76% of responses disagreed with this new approach.

Interested what others think about this? I've always thought that saving carbon was the goal, and saving energy is just a means to that end.

For example, if one house has big roof windows to gather light and solar heat, and another has PV panels instead, the second house is treated as consuming more primary energy, but both use the same photons and emit no CO2.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17425 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17425 Mon, 21 Mar 2022 07:15:07 +0000 borpin
Just looking at some Solar panels (actually the Solar Tiles to fit into a NuLock roof) and wondering about an inverter and a diverter.

Any advice on what to look for?

Certainly something with a good and preferably local API.

I am also thinking of putting a small DC immersion heater in and adding an extra few tiles in but not grid linked.

Cheers]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17344 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17344 Sun, 09 Jan 2022 12:30:37 +0000 Shevek Is the best option in our case to use anti-condensation paint, with perhaps an anti-mould undercoat? Does anti-condensation paint actually work?

I think if we were to use anti-damp paint on this surface it may make the problem worse, in that it would prevent the wall from drying out to the interior during summer.

Situation:
We're about to repaint a bedroom, which has one external wall facing west. It's a concrete frame block of flats and badly built, in that the floor slabs connect with the brick facing work.

So we have this mildew problem in the winter, 200-400 mm down the wall and across the celling at the external wall (mostly across the ceiling rather than the wall). And there was some mould behind a piece of furniture up against the external wall.

It doesn't look like moisture is making it's way to the interior from the exterior—at least not in any significant way—because there's no staining and the plaster is robust and feels dry, including at the skirting board. The mildew and mould simply wipes off. So, despite the slab linking with the brick, I don't think it's a damp problem. And, because of the slab linking with the brick, I think it's causing the interior face of wall to get cold, leading to condensation. We also have an intermittent extract fan in the adjacent bathroom which we're about to replace with a continuous fan.

At the paint shop here in Portugal there are a few different applied treatments, but they all seem to fall into one or more of the following categories: anti-damp (anti-humidade) for blocking dampness making it to the surface, anti-condensation (anti-condensação) for insulating and raising temperature of wall face, and anti-mould (anti-fungos) undercoats and top coats with fungicides.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17418 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17418 Mon, 14 Mar 2022 13:22:16 +0000 neelpeel Looking for some advice on my extension proposal before I progress with an architect.
Currently have a small conservatory with polycarb roof and the usual summer too hot / winter too cold issues. My plan is to replace this with a flat-roof, timber clad extension that we would use for dining, utility and a small office. There would also be an unheated, small porch. Picture windows are to make the most of solar gain and panoramic S-W facing views. See images attached.

The main house is stone-built with about 500mm sandstone and 120mm internal mineral wool insulation between studs - so not the warmest by any means. A wall would be removed to create a new open plan living / dining space.
Armed with a thermal camera, I have a general plan to upgrade cold spots and air tightness in the existing house as I go. Oh, and I'm in sunny, but cold Aberdeenshire.

I had been thinking SIPS panels (244mm EPS) would be a safe bet - good insulation, relatively easy to design & install and would suit a flat roof extension very well. However, on searching the forum I read some reservations about connecting this to an existing stone building, which I hadn't really considered. Is the general consensus that block build with external insulation would better suit? And are there good resources showing make up of well insulated flat roofs?

The existing house has an oil combi and a log burner. My hope was if the extension is suitably insulated then very little 'extra' heat input will be required and it may even be of net benefit.
I've been looking into single room air-air ASHPs as an option for the main open plan space - with the hope that additional heat input may only be needed on the colder winter days. Thoughts on air-air ASHPs? The rads through the house are too small I think for a full-blown ASHP system - although, once all the cold spots are dealt with?....

I also like the idea of using the new footprint to house some form of interseasonal store via PV or solar thermal - this one needs a bit more research to calculate size and feasibility! Any links or resources would be greatly appreciated. I have plenty garden space to site South facing panels.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17283 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17283 Sun, 14 Nov 2021 13:56:36 +0000 Shevek - Bathroom is internal with no windows, ceiling is concrete slab with plaster finish
- Building is badly insulated with draughty windows (apart from ours, which now has new windows)
- Crappy little intermittent fan at high level in the wall (which is probably the main culprit)
- There appears to be have been a mild but longstanding issue with (presumably) black mould

I sprayed the ceiling with bleach when we moved in, which improved how it looked on the surface but also made some of the paint peel off and I've since scrapped it and there are still little spots of black in the plaster behind the paint.

What's the long term solution?

1. Remove all plaster, re-plaster and change fan unit to continuous extract?
2. As above but add suspended ceiling with very carefully installed VCL?
3. As item 2 but add larger d-MEV fan unit or even MVHR

If we added a suspended ceiling, would spraying the concrete soffit with polyurethane foam (after removing plaster) help guard against mould or just provide it a hiding place and make it worse?]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17415 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17415 Sat, 12 Mar 2022 08:21:25 +0000 Rex
I have an Ikea hob HGS4K which I believe to be from Whirlpool.

Need a replacement thermocouple but am gobsmacked at the prices for Whirlpool parts. (https://www.espares.co.uk/product/es146424/hob-thermocouple---520mm)

Oven thermocouples appear tobe a better price. Why? But more importantly, will an oven TC fit / work on the hob? Alternatively, are all TC the same so that a different manufacturer will fit?

Thanks and toodle pip]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17423 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17423 Thu, 17 Mar 2022 19:25:24 +0000 OnTheEdgeOf
I have also measured the the o/all sash sizes and the frame openings and the sashes are 10mm (o/all) bigger than the opening that if jigged centrally would only give a 5mm overlap/side. The profile is Duraflex and according to their fabrication details it should be 15mm (o/all) bigger than the opening giving 7.5mm/side overlap. According to Duraflex the fabrication tolerance is up to 2.5mm smaller than the fabrication details (even though there is no reference to this).

Does anyone have any experience regarding if a 5mm overlap would be sufficient for the sahes to seal successfully against the co-extruded Q-lon gasket? Also with regards to the friction stay hinges that a Duraflex has a 13.5mm stack Height but if the sash is 2.5mm undersize surely this would now be 16mm?? Would this have any adverse affects on the hinges if the 13mm stack Height hinges have been installed as I presume they would have been.

Thank you in advance for any advice given.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17421 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17421 Tue, 15 Mar 2022 15:59:30 +0000 bxman
I do not suppose anyone gives a monkeys .

But at 2 hours plus.

I think this gives an excellent background to present EAST / WEST situation.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17417 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17417 Sun, 13 Mar 2022 12:04:40 +0000 will t
The front and some of the side of the house cavity was filled with white fluff (mineral wool?) around 10 years ago by the previous owners but they only did half the job because of difficult access.

To have this existing insulation taken out so the whole cavity can be filled with the EPS beads will nearly tripple the cost of the work. The company says they can leave it in and just fill what isn't already filled if I want but I'm wondering if it's a bad idea in the long run?

Could the white fluff slump over time? It doesn't seem to have so far but if I'm externally insulating and covering I guess it will be very alkward to fix if it does slump.

Is it worth doing just from a u-value point of view or is the money better spent elsewhere?

Thank you!]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17406 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17406 Sat, 05 Mar 2022 20:47:49 +0000 chrisinbrighton
The walls are all 700mm thick stone and one of these walls is covered in slate with a 50mm gap. I was thinking this would be a good place to add insulation.Is there a particular type which would be best and does a vertical slate wall need a breathable membrane?
Thanks.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17414 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17414 Thu, 10 Mar 2022 19:24:44 +0000 tony
I am strongly suspicious that as they hadn’t been using the building much this winter and as it was empty with no heating on that on a lot of occasions the inside was colder than it was outside. Now with air being able to flow in to the under floor void from outside and that air holding enough moisture for it to condense on the underside of the vinyl as this was below the dew point of the incoming air as the room was cold, wetting the ply and growing moulds.

Very fortunately this hadn’t turned into dry rot but I am sure that it would have in time.

There were no plumbing leaks and the subfloor void was dry where exposed vaguely damp under ant detritus down there.

Any view or common experience]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17411 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17411 Tue, 08 Mar 2022 23:08:20 +0000 bxman

I pray that it could lead to an early ceasefire]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17413 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17413 Wed, 09 Mar 2022 14:51:49 +0000 borpin
With far more data available to me from the new unit and the addition of more CO² and Humidity sensors, the pattern I see suggests that I can turn the unit right down. The house is 570 m³

Firstly Humidity - I have discovered the air in the house is really dry; down to 30% humidity. I've bought a humidifier, but even in my relatively small study it is only very slowly bringing the RH up (and running 100%). To me this indicates the fabric of the house is very dry. To be fair, the outside humidity is only 41% today!

Secondly CO² - again this stays low during the day (as long as I leave the study door ajar - see other thread) and even in the evening, with 2 of us here, the large open plan room does not rise above 700ppm.

I also have an IKEA air quality sensor (2.5 PM) although I have not been collecting data long enough to examine what it might be telling me or whether I believe it!

The question really is, is the purpose of home ventilation largely to control humidity and CO² (and smells to some extent)? If so, I'm reducing my ventilation rates!

As an aside, I felt part of the issue with the old unit was that it basically ran at the same rate all the time. I am going to put in an automation that runs it at higher speeds for short periods each day just to exercise the fans.

Thoughts?

“If you can't measure it, you can't manage it.”]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17401 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17401 Fri, 25 Feb 2022 19:11:28 +0000 ChrisinYorkshire
I have a family member wanting to insulate their loft with loose fil cellulose, without disturbing the recently skimmed and decorated ceiling below.. This is a ventilated, cold loft space situation - insulating the room below.

Would a breather membrane over the top of the insulation be a good way of dealing with airtightness in this situation? (With Orcon F and Vana tape to deal with penetrations)

Slightly concerned about trying to tape and seal the membrane, from what I've heard cellulose insulation is very dusty.

Any thoughts, most appreciated.

Thanks
Chris]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17404 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17404 Thu, 03 Mar 2022 10:32:05 +0000 WillInAberdeen
"We’re working with National Grid ESO, the people who run the electricity network, to trial a big national ‘turndown’, where households come together to consciously use less energy at certain times – and get rewarded with free power for their efforts."

What do people think about this? Anyone tried it?

Full disclosure: I've no connection to Octopus, not a customer.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17395 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17395 Sat, 19 Feb 2022 11:32:59 +0000 fostertom https://www.theguardian.com/money/2022/feb/19/passivhaus-how-to-insulate-your-home-against-soaring-heating-bills

"... based on anecdotal evidence ... expect a Passivhaus to sell for between 5% and 10% more than a similar property built to normal energy efficiency standards.
Because of the desirability of these homes, ... be wary of unclear marketing claims. “A lot of people will say a house has ‘Passivhaus principles’, which actually has no meaning really.” A true Passivhaus will always have a certificate to prove its status"

A lot of people satisfy themselves that they've built to full PH standard, but don't fork out for the certificatiojn procedure. That's begining to look like a poor economy, to eventually recoup an ever-increasing resale premium.]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17408 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17408 Mon, 07 Mar 2022 12:57:24 +0000 fostertom https://www.theguardian.com/business/2022/mar/07/onward-inertia-the-secret-source-for-keeping-the-lights-on-and-greening-the-grid]]> http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17410 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17410 Mon, 07 Mar 2022 19:25:11 +0000 fostertom http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17405 http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17405 Thu, 03 Mar 2022 12:08:54 +0000 Rex
A neighbour was asking me if I have a really long 6mm masonry drill, which I do not.

The reason is that he is intending to have FTTP installed but does not want the cable running around the house so is going to DIY it. Apparently he has been given a length of fibre cable with the correct plug at each end.

He says that OpenReach will terminate the fibre on his wall and he will plug his fibre cable into it a route it to were he wants it.

I'm sure he knows more than I do, but it is my understanding the the fibre goes into a box on the external wall, then is connected to the ONT inside the house which converts the light to an electrical signal. Then to the router via a short CAT6 cable for wifi. Alternatively, a CAT6 cable can be taken from the ONT to wherever one wants the router.

I understand the ethernet cable solution but cannot understand why he would have been given any fibre cable (and I don't think he understand either.)

Which brings me to my question: Can he run a length of fibre cable to a router?

Thanks and toodle pip]]>