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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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  1.  
    Hi All,

    Local ground and trees dictate that I need a piled foundation for my extensions. I've had the usual soil tests and engineers input etc. I have now shortlisted two piling contractors who have differing ideas on anti-heave measures:

    Contractor A: Voided space beneath RC suspended slab
    Contractors B: Cellcore under RC raft

    Costs are virtually the same, though I may end up with more spoil with A. Structure on top will be SIPs with UFH.

    My original intention was to insulate ontop of the slab but with a voided option, insulation underneath may be a (better?) solution? Obviously I wish to reduce cold bridges where possible.

    However the cellcore option underneath the slab would also give some insulation value, so I could go for that route with insulation on top of slab.

    I'm awaiting on the architect to draft his foundation/wall details, but in the meantime would value any input into my slab options. Will upload detail when completed.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeMar 18th 2015
     
    Why not Cellcore HX Plus?
  2.  
    Posted By: ringiWhy not Cellcore HX Plus?


    Not sure which one they have included in their costings, but yes, Cellcore HX plus is the one I will demand. And then I will have additional insulation on top of slab too.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMar 18th 2015
     
    I would rather have insulation under it than cold air and wind
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeMar 18th 2015
     
    Tony remember you need a void so the soil up expand without effecting the building.

    As the soil will also shrink at times, if the insulation is not fixed to the underside of the slab, a gap may form between the slab and the insinuation.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMar 18th 2015
     
    The insulation is special compressible eps, I fix rods into it at all different angles and put a slip membrane (poly) under it so it hangs in the underside of my slabs, clever stuff it is designed to accommodate heave!
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMar 27th 2015
     
    I looked at using Cellcore under my house, although I don't think it was the HX product. The sticking point was what happens after the ground heaves, thus compressing the product, when the ground subsequently drops again. The compressed product does not spring back, so there is a void. How do you keep the insulation in firm contact with the underside of the slab rather than resting on the ground or even just drooping a bit and allowing air movement. Cellcore were unwilling to warrant anything; perhaps it is different with their new product. You also have the thermal bridge question at the edges if you use piles or strip foundations.

    In the end I went with a passive slab (raft) and a load of hardcore underneath. If your ground conditions allow for it, I can recommend that approach. It was simpler and cheaper.
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeMar 28th 2015
     
    +1 :smile:
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMar 28th 2015
     
    If you do downstand perimeter insulation and/or horizonral 'wing'/skirt insulation around your perimeter, instead of underfloor insulation, then frost heave is eliminated. If you make the perimeter into a french drain as well, then all will stay bone dry beneath, so no heave resulting from moistrure change. Then the whole block of subsoil beneath becomes a massive temperature-stable heat store, helping all to keep warm in winter and cool in summer.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeMar 28th 2015
     
    Worth noting, though, that FT's suggestion won't work if the ground is completely saturated (water table >= ground level) unless the French drain is very effective which would require nearby daylight (somewhere downhill) to empty it to or very reliable pumping.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMar 28th 2015
     
    True.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMar 28th 2015
     
    Posted By: fostertomIf you do downstand perimeter insulation and/or horizonral 'wing'/skirt insulation around your perimeter, instead of underfloor insulation, then frost heave is eliminated. If you make the perimeter into a french drain as well, then all will stay bone dry beneath, so no heave resulting from moistrure change. Then the whole block of subsoil beneath becomes a massive temperature-stable heat store, helping all to keep warm in winter and cool in summer.

    Hi Tom, I agree about the advisibility of perimeter insulation, but it isn't frost heave that the OP is concerned about. It's heave due to trees, which is the same issue I had.

    In our case we put a French drain in just lower than the below-slab insulation but there's no way to put it any lower (e.g. under strip foundations) because of the winter-time water levels like Ed mentions.

    I'm also not sure that your proposed solution is shown in the NHBC guide, which seems to be the bible for easy approval by the various interested powers-that-be. Of course, we should be all about exploring better alternatives here, but it's best to start with your eyes open.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMar 28th 2015
     
    Def not in NHBC - in fact I thought I was the only person in the world doing it this way. Building Inspectors so far accept the principle for extensions and upgrades, but prob a bridge too far for newbuild.

    Heave due to trees works by changes in moisture content of clay, which their cycles can cause. As far as I can see, french drain takes care of that by copiously draining the soil to a low water content whatever.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMar 28th 2015
     
    Posted By: fostertomDef not in NHBC - in fact I thought I was the only person in the world doing it this way.

    I thought it was quite common in North America?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMar 28th 2015
     
    A French drain cannot stop clay heave! Come on...
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMar 29th 2015
     
    say more tony - in fact I'm not sure which way you're meaning
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMar 29th 2015
     
    Highly shrinkable clay swells up progressively until it is saturated with water and as water is drawn out of it it shrinks.

    Clearly under foundations or floors this if not good and where structure are damaged we call this subsidence.

    The process can happen from the surface to several meters down, drying can be as a result of tree roots pumping water out which happens seasonally or as a result of prolonged dry weather.

    A French drain will not stop clay either shrinking or heaving.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMar 29th 2015 edited
     
    Posted By: tonyclay swells up progressively until it is saturated with water and as water is drawn out of it it shrinks
    What if the route by which water enters or leaves the clays under the building, is intercepted by a perimeter french drain, which diverts any horizontal inflows to the drain, as well as draining the clays under the building?
    Posted By: tonyThe process can happen from the surface to several meters down
    What if the building prevents any vertical inflow down from the surface?
    Posted By: tonydrying can be as a result of tree roots pumping water out which happens seasonally or as a result of prolonged dry weather
    What if there are no live tree roots under the building because they've been cut by the perimeter trench, except deep down maybe, below the level that you normally have to go with founds to avoid danger of heave?
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