Hi all ... about to start testing for "best look" on a black/near black finish for a timber clad solar wall section.
What i won't be able to tell though is how different methods stand up to harsh weather and movement in the wood.
This page is representative of the range on offer ...
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/Coatings/External_Woodstains_and_Varnishes/

All observations/experiences welcome

Is the wall already "in situ" ?
What wood is it?, or will be.
Is the wall subject to harsh weather, I assume it's South facing?

Just about to think about just the same but for all the soffits and fascias which I need to do before they go up. Previous experience suggests Sadolins (and lots of coats). Have used Butinox (brown) more recently and that seemed to last pretty well. Thing about sadolins (if you use the right one) is that it does actually stain the wood, not just sit on top.

I treated all my wooden soffit and fascia with raw linseed oil first and then finished with black impregnated linseed oil, I can't say how long it will last but it is said to have a good life. Some I did in-situ and some was painted on the ground before fitting. It was very impressive to see the puddling of rain on boards that were laying flat after being painted. It's the first time I have used linseed oil paint but I have to say that now I am a total convert.

try ebony
http://www.osmouk.com/previewpage.cfm?bookid=book001&chapter=5&page=112

I have heard good things about Sadolins products, although not used them myself.

What sort of profile is the timber cladding going to be? You mentioned it is a solar wall, what does this mean specifically?

Posted By: borpin

Posted By: Chris P BaconI treated all my wooden soffit and fascia with raw linseed oil first and then finished with black impregnated linseed oil

Interesting. Where did you source it from?

I bought it directly from the Allbäck Linseed oil factory which is about 15 miles away from me, in the UK their importer is Holkham Linseed Paints in Norfolk.

http://www.linoljeprodukter.se/eng/index.php

www.holkhamlinseedpaints.co.uk

Thank you all! Some extremely useful links as well ...
I'd begun to think in the mean time about charring, so that's where the research is going to start.
The cladding is not in place yet so could be "treated" this way
It's an unknown timber having been scavenged from a finished Travelodge build ... They've used some god-awful smeary stain effort on it.

Posted By: TimberWhat sort of profile is the timber cladding going to be? You mentioned it is a solar wall, what does this mean specifically?

I might be able to sort a pic at some point for the experts on here to identify it.
The profile is what I would describe as long-tongue and short-groove ... presumably to allow for movement and not to be fitted too tight.
It's a "solar" wall in so far as, having run pipes under the roof slates to collect heat for AGS, I thought it would be interesting to see what contribution a vertical SW facing version would make, so I've run a separate loop behind where the cladding will be going.
(Pic shows the wall before the pipes went on.)

If you goggle shou-sugi-ban you should come up with examples of charred timber cladding, a traditional Japanese method of preserving timber, traditionally Cedar, from rot, insects and theoretically fire. A site called pursuing wabi has a guide to the process if diying, but it looks pretty time consuming. There was a UK importer of charred timber from Japan but cost was high and I am unable to find the site at present.
Goggling charred timber cladding japan brings up lots of interesting images.
Personally I think it's a beautiful finish but am trying to work out how to reasonably achieve it, time and cost wise.

Spent the weekend pre staining facia board before it goes up. 2 coats of Sadolins Classic Ebony on both sides looks good. Will need two more on the exposed face but happy with that. I feel it really soaks in.

Posted By: djh

Posted By: Timber
As for the profile, I think that is just called tougne and groove. Shiplap does not have the back side to the groove if that makes sense.

There are lots of diagrams of profiles on the web if that's easier than posting a picture: http://www.google.co.uk/images?q=timber+cladding+profiles

Charring is a good thought, helps improve durability, but there is not much information about achieving it on site using home-brew methods.

The illustrated instructions was one reason I posted this link
http://pursuingwabi.com/2007/11/05/shou-sugi-ban/" alt="" src="http:///forum114/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/bigsmile.gif" >

Used the above images link ... it's the one second from right, rerferred to as "Shiplap" ... even though I "agree" with DJH that this is probably an incorrect label.

There's a 2007 article about the Parkside Kiosk on the London South Bank here:

http://www.bdonline.co.uk/buildings/technical/charred-timber-at-dsdha%E2%80%99s-parkside-kiosk-near-london%E2%80%99s-city-hall-links-the-area%E2%80%99s-past-and-present/3091943.article

They needed to char 500 sqm and did some research with TRADA and used a furnace.

They used Siberian Larch.

"Specialist joinery contractor Martin Childs (MCL) undertook the unenviable task of charring the timber for Parkside Kiosk. Close collaboration with architect DSDHA, welding goggles and big gloves set them on their way.

There are four main stages involved in creating the charred finish for the cladding, starting with the most exciting bit, charring. During testing a blowtorch was used but MCL set up an automated furnace with gas burners to char the 500sq m of timber required for the whole job.

“We passed the timber through while watching it constantly,” says David Coates of MCL. “Some of the planks actually catch fire, so as it comes out he next step is to brush off any burning debris and embers.”

The burnt timber shrinks by 1-3mm in width due to the rapid heating, and some wastage also occurs due to twisting.

When the timber is suitably charred it is subjected to a high-pressure water jet to blow away any dusty debris, before being reheated with the blowtorch to dry it quickly and thoroughly. The result is a finished plank of deep-brown matt hues with raised black grain running through it.

Imperfections such as knots only add to the textural quality of the panel, providing a constantly varied natural aesthetic.“I wasn’t sure about the process when we started, and it has produced more wastage than we’d normally want,” says Coates, “but now that it is being installed on site, the timber looks really good. I’m impressed.”"

Ferdinand

you can use an iron rich lawn feed mixed in water and just paint it on, saw it on George Clarkes programme