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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    • CommentAuthorhitormiss
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2014 edited
     
    Hi, trying to be green and re-use already owned Purbeck flagstones in a new build situation over wet underfloor heating system. Thicknesses of the stone varies from 50mm to 125mm, most being 75mm thick. we have approx 200mm above slab to ffl to 'play' with!

    Polished concrete supposedly needs at least 100mm over heating pipes.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2014
     
    Sounds perfect - what's the problem/question?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2014
     
    If there is a problem I would have thought it would be "bedding in" slabs of such varying thicknesses to create a decent, level FFL. Maybe some sort of semi-dry mix?
  1.  
    Posted By: hitormissPolished concrete supposedly needs at least 100mm over heating pipes.
    That doesn't agree with what I've seen elsewhere. Its common to tie the underfloor heating pipes to the steel mesh which normally sits centrally in the concrete slab. So 20mm pipes in a 100mm slab would typically have around 30mm of cover.

    Where are your underfloor heating pipes? In the concrete slab or in the flagstone bedding layer?

    Where's the insulation? Is it below the slab?

    David
    • CommentAuthormike7
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2014
     
    Posted By: fostertomSounds perfect - what's the problem/question?


    Less than perfect if you want to minimise the flow temp.
  2.  
    A neighbour has some self-catering cottages with wet UFH under random (i.e. crazy paving like) slabs of Caithness slate. From what I recall of seeing the slate on the pallets it was probably 25-50mm (I'm sure there was variation in thickness)? The pipes were cast into a concrete slab before the slate was bedded in on top. I don't know the depth of the pipes in the concrete, but I could ask if you were interested (the last was built a few years ago now, but as they built 4 in total they may remember!). The system works very well.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2014 edited
     
    Posted By: mike7Less than perfect if you want to minimise the flow temp.
    Why? because of thermal mass, or thermal resistance?
    • CommentAuthormike7
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2014
     
    Tom - S'obvius innit?
    Actually I was thinking of resistance - for a specific rate of heat transfer to the air above, the thicker the layer the hotter the pipe, and so - if you're using a heat pump - the lower the COP... Or for a condensing boiler, the less condensing. But you know this already. I suppose this dwelling could have such a small heat demand that the heat supplied by the floor is so low - almost acting as active insulation - that these differences would not amount to much, but we don't know enough to say that.

    Whether it is a good idea to have so much thermal mass above the heating layer seems harder to say, other than that with the same thickness of stone but in two layers, one above and one below the hot bit, you'd have about the same thermal inertia but a quicker response. But you know that too...
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2014
     
    But the conductivity of the flags + concrete is so high that it'll make little difference to delta-t. More inertia the better - stabilises temp for longer (slower rate of 'adaption'), whether it's hotter or colder outside
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeFeb 6th 2014
     
    Posted By: fostertomMore inertia the better
    Explain that more please.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2014 edited
     
    2 cases, when considering thermal mass in buildings:
    assuming a heating (not cooling) need
    1) when heat is fed into the mass from the 'front' e.g. solar heat coming thro windows, falling on and being absorbed by massive floor/walls) and later on comes back out the same way, to usefully supply heat to the room - so it's an ebb and flow from the room surface
    2) when heat is fed in from the 'back' and moves uni-directionally thro the mass to supply heat to the room.

    1) makes use of only about the inner 100mm of the mass, if it's 24hr ebb and flow, however deep and massive it is beyond that
    2) makes good use of all the mass and thickness

    1) is only marginally useful
    2) is how thermal mass should be used.

    Underfloor heating is 2), and the more mass there is between the pipes (input to 'back') and the room, the better.
    The closer the surface temp needs to be to room temp, whilst providing the reqd heat output to room (because the emitter is v large, and/or because the heart requirement is small), the better it acts as a thermostat-less close controller/stabiliser of room temp. The smaller the delta-t between surface and air temp, the better the room air temp is locked to wall surface temp in a self-regulating way. However this stabilising mechanism, when called upon because room temp wants to fall (or rise) due to weather change that's non-average for the month, does eventually deplete the heat store in the near reaches of the wall mass, and temp will eventually begin to drift .

    How long that can be delayed (hopefully until weather returns to 'normal' for the month) depends upon how much heat there is stored and conductively accessible in the mass of the floor, which can come forward to replenish heat that's been drawn faster than 'normal' to keep room temp stabilised.

    That's why the more thermal mass (therefore 'inertia') the better, when placed inboard of the heat input (the UFH pipes).
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2014
     
    I would like to see some data to back your assertions up Tom. There is enough of us interested in this that we should be able to come up with a simple way to do it. The only person I know who had some data on a low mass house was, like me, amazed at just how stable his low mass place was.
    Anyone got temp data for their houses over a few months or better still years?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2014 edited
     
    ST, understand, I'm def not talking about lo-mass vs hi-mass buildings, as in masonry vs timber panel. On that simplistic level, any hi-mass falls into case 1) above, which I agree is barely effective, maybe counter-productive.

    But that's not a license to build lo-mass buildings on grounds that it makes no difference, nor to squander extg massiveness e.g. by isolating half of it outside cavity wall insulation.

    It's foolish to build or refurb ignoring the great potential benefits of thermal mass, but that thermal mass has to be applied knowingly, with clarity about how heat flows over time, and is matched to local weather.
    • CommentAuthorbarney
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2014
     
    Tom, - whilst a lot of what you say is the considered wisdom as it were, it is highly dependant on the occupation and what tolerances can be allowed.

    For very similar occupation patterns and temperatures, there is very little difference between high mass and low mass building - all other parameters like airtightness being equal.

    Either you put a lot of heat in fast, in a low mass building, then throttle back to tick over to maintain condition or you put a longer lower heat input to a higher mass building and maintain slightly more stable internal conditions (which may well extend into periods where you are heating the building when not required.


    Basically, though, the total energy burden will be pretty equal in either type.


    I agree with your approach to very low delta T between the room condition and the floor (adjusting for a much higher radiant fraction), but basically, the more resistance (and thus delta T) between the heating fluid and the heat emitter surface then the higher the fluid temperature needs to be to achieve heat transfer.

    The last school I did had 300mm of insulation above a ground slab, and had the UFH in approx 250mm of concrete on the insulation - it was actually sitting on and tied to the lower mesh which sat on 50mm chairs.

    Floor temperature is designed to be circa 22C.

    In terms of energy input, it's now clear to us, that we could have moved the UFH significantly shallower in the slab, tightened up on the density and used a lower water temp to max out the heat pump CoP's.

    The modelling would start to show that putting the UFH on spreader plates and just covering with a resonably conductive flooring would allow even lower temps.

    The counterpoint to this is stability of temperature - something you may well need more of in a continuously occupied building than one with cyclic or intermittent occupancy.

    In my experience, just having mass doesn't actually equate to lower energy consumption.

    Regards

    Barney
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2014
     
    I just played about with LISA and created a wall that was at 20°C as the initial condition.
    I then varied one face of it between 10°C and 13°C to mimic an outside wall, the opposite face I varied by 2°C and between 16°C and 18°C and phase shifted that 180°.
    Then ran the model with a wall made of brick an done made of air.
    They end up is the same place, but 2°C colder than the initial condition.
    Here is the videos of it.

    Brick Wall
    http://youtu.be/R1nExnlmyb0

    Air Wall
    http://youtu.be/VeDP9unzZcw
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2014
     
    Posted By: SteamyTeaExplain that more please.
    Is it really fair to derail “every” thread with this discussion?

    Posted By: fostertomBut the conductivity of the flags + concrete is so high that it'll make little difference to delta-t.
    Even with this?

    Posted By: owlman…"bedding in" slabs of such varying thicknesses to create a decent, level FFL. Maybe some sort of semi-dry mix?
    Not sure but can't help feeling that such a mix will have a lot lower conductivity than stone or concrete.

    Would sorting the flagstones into thick and thin and having two levels of underlying concrete to suite be a feasible way to minimize the amount of bedding?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2014
     
    Posted By: Ed Davies
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: owlman</cite>…"bedding in" slabs of such varying thicknesses to create a decent, level FFL. Maybe some sort of semi-dry mix?</blockquote>Not sure but can't help feeling that such a mix will have a lot lower conductivity than stone or concrete.

    Would sorting the flagstones into thick and thin and having two levels of underlying concrete to suite be a feasible way to minimize the amount of bedding?

    I agree Ed not ideal perhaps but it was just a thought. It's always a problem with old flagstones, Yorkstone, and the like. On a practical level you're right they would need grading into their respective thicknesses and taking it from there. Maybe a grid of one thicker thickness and then backfillng concreting the grid hollows one by one, to a depth to take the thinner ones. Jut an idea. Under normal useage of course they'd just be bedded on sand.
    • CommentAuthorbarney
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2014
     
    In terms of thermal response, you just need a bedding material of similar conductivity to flag - the "heat" doesn't give a monkeys what it passes through - but if it passes through at similar rates by matching bedding to flag then it doesn't matter - you'll end up with a reasonably equal floor temperature.

    So perhaps stone dust rather than sand in the mix ?

    Regards

    Barney
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2014
     
    Good thinking barney. Maybe if he went to a local granite/stone cutting place, there's one near me, and as all their cutting and polishing is water cooled/lubricated, they must have some sort of water filtration which means slurry they may want to dispose of.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2014 edited
     
    Posted By: Ed Davies
    Posted By: fostertomBut the conductivity of the flags + concrete is so high that it'll make little difference to delta-t.
    Even with this?
    Perhaps increases delta-t across its thickness, relative to normal screed + tiles, from 1C to 3C? So mean water temp might be 42C instead of 40C. Not v significant, compared to the benefit of greater thermal mass, as described, and nothing compared to wood or carpet as finish.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeFeb 7th 2014
     
    Posted By: SteamyTeaThey end up is the same place
    but in how much time? i.e. wd one but not the other hold things usefully stable for a few days, until weather returns to 'normal'?
  3.  
    I think you are worrying far too much. Our slabs vary from less than 2 inchs to about 4. Some of them I had to cut down in thickness from 7-8 inches (basically sandstone blocks). The thick ones were original, the thinner ones were the closest match I could find in the reclamation yard.
    Crushed recycled glass and lime screed. Lime pointing.
    Underfloor runs off the woodstove so cannot comment on COP.
    No problems, but then the walls are about 2 foot thick so the floor layer is probably thin in comparison.
    • CommentAuthorhitormiss
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2014
     
    Thanks for all the feedback.

    Our slab has 100mm of Closed Cell insulation below.

    Pipes as close to the slab as possible, agreed? So what do we build up to include our underfloor heating pipes with to leave approx 100mm for slabs and bedding in?
    • CommentAuthorhitormiss
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2014
     
    Sorry, that was as meant to be as close to the top flags not slab, as possible.
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