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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorNickysells1
    • CommentTimeJan 6th 2008 edited
     
    Simple quick question anyone have experience of these and whether they do eliminate condensation?
    • CommentAuthorPeter A
    • CommentTimeJan 6th 2008 edited
     
    Nick,
    I have fitted 140 on a new build site, am told by residents that little or no condensation on windows, fitted three types Nuaire's Sunwarm, Ecosmart and Drimaster, with the later being the basic positive input ventilation unit. Currently monitoring ten of each from an energy input viewpoint, a year down the line is does seem as if they do provide a solar input into the home and in the case of the Ecosmart may even exceed the manufacturers claims.
    I fitted a Drimaster in my 1920's home about 18months ago, I had very bad consensation in the back of a wardrobe where the wall ran with water this time of year and bad mould growth in the bathroom. No longer have consendation in wardrobe and mould in bathroom is almost banished (think there may be a bigger problem here with the external wall. The first morning after the day I switched it on the improvement in air quality was very noticable, it's still as good you just don't notice it know, helped with my son's very bad hay fever. Only one regret, I wished I had fitted the Ecosmart (think it's now called a sunwarm tile) to help with the heating bills.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJan 6th 2008
     
    We fitted a Villavent system with heat exchanger in our self built. Very pleased with the system although the installation wasn't perfect. (They didn't install or even provide all the vent grills. No servicing instructions left etc).

    We installed a vent system specifically because we have had condensation on windows of all four of our previous houses (all reasonably modern houses). The air feels fresher and towels dry faster in the bathroom. No condensation on windows even in the bathroom after shower.

    If I was building a house again I would definitly fit a whole house vent system again. I'd rate it higher priority than something like a central vac system or a wired computer network.
  1.  
    Thanks guys.

    Peter,

    Does the sunwarm tile alter the appearance of the roof ?

    May be a stupid question but does closing internal doors efect the performance?

    Cheers
    • CommentAuthorPeter A
    • CommentTimeJan 7th 2008
     
    Nick, the sunwarm tile is located on the underside of the roof pitch on the best elevation to maximise the solar gain, so nothing on the outside, it does have a duct that goes to the soffit on a north elevation so that cooler air can be demanded in summer months.
    Closed doors won't affect performance, most have gaps of some form or another, in new build just have to ensure a small gap under door. If you have a bthroom or ensuite that is not directly accessed off the landing or hall then you will need to install a passiv vent, Nuaire provide them as well.
    Link below.
    http://www.nuaire.co.uk/Product/Residential_Products/Positive_Input_Ventilation/Sunwarm_Tile
  2.  
    Thanks Peter spoke to Nuair at length today, helpful people.
    • CommentAuthorDJT
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2008
     
    I HAVE A CONDENSATION PROBLEM AND AM GOING TO GET EITHER A DRIMASTER 2000 OR SUNWARM TILE INSTALLED. IS THE LATER WORTH THE EXTRA £650 + VAT I WILL HAVE TO PAY. ALSO CAN BOTH SYSTEMS BE TURNED OFF EASILY AS I LIVE CLOSE TO A FARM WITH SMELLS AND MAY NEED TO TURN THE SYSTEM OFF BEFORE GOING TO WORK TO PREVENT THE SMELLS BEING PUSHED AROUND THE HOUSE.

    aNY OTHER SUGGESTIONS ARE WELCOME. THANKS
  3.  
    Posted By: DJTaNY OTHER SUGGESTIONS ARE WELCOME. THANKS


    Fix your caps lock key.

    Paul in Montreal.
    • CommentAuthorDJT
    • CommentTimeOct 7th 2008
     
    Useful suggestions in relation to my question!! Cap lock fixed
    • CommentAuthorjules
    • CommentTimeOct 7th 2008
     
    I too am interested in this sytem: never heard of it until this thread. On the face of it, it sounds like a good idea, so why don't we hear about it regularly on this forum? Airtightness and MHRV are discussed all the time, but I wonder whether this is actually a more practical solution, especially in older houses where complete airtightness is impossible. Or maybe it's a lot of money for only marginal benefit if you don't have damp problems.

    So can anyone explain to me where this system is suitable, pros and cons etc? We are just staring refurbishment on a 100 yr-old house without any damp problems, probably because it's very leaky. I want to make it as airtight as possible, but hadn't considered doing anything about ventilation until now.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeOct 7th 2008 edited
     
    As I said above I believe it's one of the best decisions we made when building our house. I'd rate it better value than installing a computer network (which we did) or a central vac system (we didn't). Air quality seems much better. Bit like it does when you go camping.

    With a bit of planning you could perhaps install the pipework yourself during the refurb but hold of buying the expensive fan unit to see how things go. Pipework would need to be designed not just thrown in.
    • CommentAuthortomthepom
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2011
     
    Interesting threads! I have the nu aire agent coming round tomorrow. The reviews seem to vary widely in either outright condemnation or love of the product. We live in a large Edwardian house which we have refurbished and in doing so with things like double glazing have removed the natural flow of air. In particular we have a large kitchen with bi folding glass doors. I wonder if the unti can extract the condensation from that room as it would be the furthest from the duct. We do try and keep all the windows open on trickle even in the coldest weather but we still get mould in the corner of the rooms. Comments would be welcome.
  4.  
    Positive input ventilation systems provide a tempered air supply to the house & rely on trickle vents in windows (or other gaps in the structure) to provide an exhaust path. They will encourage air to move out of your kitchen trickle vents, but they will not extract as such.

    The input terminal should be positioned in a part of the house where warm air normally collects, so that the external air is mixed with warm air before moving to other parts of the house. So it is typical to put the input terminal at the top of the stairs. This normally also gives convenient access to the loft.

    If you have a larger house, it may be that you need a combination approach with positive input ventilation at the top of the stairs & a low level continuous extract from the corner most distant from the stairs, e.g. kitchen. The Nuaire agent should be able to advise. If you want to go the whole hog they also do balanced flow whole house heat recovery ventilation.

    David
    • CommentAuthortomthepom
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2011
     
    Thanks David, I think I will ring Nu aire direct and see if they have specific agents. The people who came round were damp specialists and not very clued up on the technical aspects of the drimaster.

    Tom
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJan 13th 2011
     
    The big deal with MHRV is the heat recovery part. Allows much higher ventilation rates without trashing the heating too much. Can generate 14C incoming air even when it's freezing outside. Without heat recovery I'm not sure I would want constant ventilation at a rate sufficient to keep the humidity down in a kitchen.
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