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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2014
     
    So we have managed - despite the appalling weather - to get the rafters fixed to the supporting structure for the porch type roof. Now to cut and fix the hips at each end. The shorter rafters I'm reasonably comfortable with (may be misplaced!), but it's working out the hip rafters that is taxing me.

    The rafter is deeper of course and assuming that the top angle is the same as the jack rafters, how do I work out the depth of the bird mouth? It has to be deeper so the top of the hip rafter lines up with the jack rafters. Do I need to fix temporary battens on top of the rafters to establish the levels? I can only do that on one side as the other isn't made yet.

    Just struggling to get my head around the practicalities of it. Any suggestions / guidance would be much appreciated.

    thanks, regards, Jonathan
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2014
     
    put the end rafters in first that sit near the house then make sure the distance from the outside corner is the same to both, set up a string where the top of the hip will run and measure from that

    I cut the corner off the plates at 45 so it is the same width as the rafters.

    A rafter square will assist with getting the angles not sure of you pitch but try 12/16 for the hip or mark a template off your string line

    Looks nice though - too neat!
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2014 edited
     
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2014
     
    Great links - so my confidence in the top angle is shot!! Gulp!

    Thanks for the practical bit Tony - I can't cut the main beams, but will work around it. My roof pitch is 40 degrees. I have a rafter square - just not sure how to use it!!
  1.  
    Your house is looking great! you doing the work yourselves?

    Birds mouths are tricky, have you tried drawing out the rafters on paper to find the angle?

    This is how I do mine, in section view, one laid on top of the other to see the depth of the rafter.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2014 edited
     
    I think I used rise per foot for rafters and then same rise but used 17 for the going for the hips, would all come back if I was there.
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2014
     
    Yeah, all our own work!! Well, apart from the frame, the groundworks and the roof finish.

    Drawing it out on CAD is probably the best solution - but, I'll have to do some tricky measuring as the roof just slopes onto the frame so I don't have the height from the wall plate (huge beams!!) to the "ridge". Not insurmountable - assuming the wind has dropped a bit tomorrow I'll be back up the ladders!! Once I've drawn it out I'll do the double check Tony using your rise per (metric equivalent!!)!

    Thanks for all the comments - feel a bit more confident. Will post a "as done" photo, hopefully by the end of the weekend. Then it'll be down to the roofer to set the fabric and battens up so we can use them to walk up and fix the top cladding. Such fun!
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 12th 2014
     
    Hope you are not in the UK or H n S will be after you!
  2.  
    CAD is a good solution, its what its there for. You dont need the height from wall plate to ridge. Just need the horizontal distance from the outside edge of the wall plate to the wall, the rafter angle, after that the ridge height will self calculate along with the angle for the hip rafter.
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeFeb 13th 2014 edited
     
    Hmmm - not perfection yet! Tried a template with a bit of spare and while I got the hip rafter lined up with the main run of rafters, it wasn't sitting so well with the rafter I fixed to the wall for the start of the return hip (so to speak!). I think I'll need to add a piece of packing to the rafter on the right to move the hip over, so I can line it up with the rafter on the left. Hope that's not too confusing!
    • CommentAuthorTimber
    • CommentTimeFeb 13th 2014 edited
     
    Is that a platform timber frame structure? If so I have spotted a potential problem (not with the porch roof, with something else).
  3.  
    looking good. I'm surprised you didn't use douglas fir. Dont they use it much up there?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 13th 2014
     
    I usually cut the top end of the hip through at 45 Beth ways so it sits snug to both rafters.
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeFeb 13th 2014
     
    Thanks Bot de Paille - just using what I was given! It was part of the frame package from the UK.

    Yes, tony, I'll trim the top of the hip once I get the thing looking right!! Forecast for heavy rain and strong winds again tomorrow, so maybe over the weekend.

    What's troubling you Timber? Not sure what you mean by a platform timber frame structure - tell us more!
    • CommentAuthorTimber
    • CommentTimeFeb 14th 2014
     
    Well is the main structure of the house timber frame? If it is timber frame is it post and beam or load bearing studwork. If it is load bearing studwork, do the first floor joists bear onto the top of the ground floor wall panels, with the first floor wall panels constructed on top of the joists? Are the joists solid timber?

    Depending on the answers to those questions, there may be an issue with differential movement.

    If it is not timber frame then never mind :wink:
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeFeb 14th 2014 edited
     
    Posted By: TimberDepending on the answers to those questions, there may be an issue with differential movement.
    Now you've got me interested, can you expand please, just so the rest of us potential timber framers are aware of the correct way of doing things?
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeFeb 14th 2014
     
    So a good day - the hip rafter over the main door is up and sorted (just got to cut the end for the fascia) and the jack rafters are cut. I've hesitated from fixing them so I can use them as templates for the other end!

    The CAD idea went pear shaped - but as it's merde in - merde out, I accept it was my problem trying to find the right dimensions! Just had to slowly work out the angles. I'll finish it off tomorrow, assuming the wind calms down a little, and post the proud photos.
    • CommentAuthorTimber
    • CommentTimeFeb 14th 2014 edited
     
    Posted By: Triassic
    Posted By: TimberDepending on the answers to those questions, there may be an issue with differential movement.
    Now you've got me interested, can you expand please, just so the rest of us potential timber framers are aware of the correct way of doing things?


    Well if it is platform frame construction, these types of timber frame building experience what is called differential movement. That is, the horizontal timber elements such as floor joists, plates and rails will shrink slightly as the building dries after construction. Typically a platform timber frame floor zone will shrink by about 10mm. This needs to be allowed to occur otherwise problems can occur.

    The timber cladding battens in the pictures span over the floor zone. As this shrinkage occurs, the battens may end up actually holding up the first floor as the floor zone shrinks (normally the first floor walls and roof would drop down with this shrinkage). The battens spanning the floor zone can lead to all sorts of issues, not least of which gaps around the floor zone leading to air leakage. It may also lead to damage to the internal finishes and other interesting side effects.

    Again, if the building isn't platform timber frame construction, then none of the above is true. Looking at the pics, the breather membrane and stuff lead me to think that it may be timber framed.
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeFeb 15th 2014
     
    Thanks for that Timber - yes, it's a timber frame as you describe ... but the floor joists have me metal webs, so no vertical shrinkage there. They can shrink horizontally as the first floor panels are also supported on the edge beams.

    The battens you can see in the photos aren't fixed to the frame ... I screwed 75 x 50 timbers to the frame to accommodate 75 deep insulation to protect the frame and then more blue fabric and then the battens, so there is an opportunity for movement between the elements without compromising the frame. Hopefully!!

    Thanks for the reminder though Timber - actually doing the work means that we get too close and forget some of the basic elements. I will focus on making sure that when we start the sealing for air tightness we include enough overlaps, especially at the floor and ceiling junctions.

    Back to the hips ....
    • CommentAuthorTimber
    • CommentTimeFeb 15th 2014
     
    Posted By: CerisyThanks for that Timber - yes, it's a timber frame as you describe ... but the floor joists have me metal webs, so no vertical shrinkage there. They can shrink horizontally as the first floor panels are also supported on the edge beams.

    The battens you can see in the photos aren't fixed to the frame ... I screwed 75 x 50 timbers to the frame to accommodate 75 deep insulation to protect the frame and then more blue fabric and then the battens, so there is an opportunity for movement between the elements without compromising the frame. Hopefully!!

    Thanks for the reminder though Timber - actually doing the work means that we get too close and forget some of the basic elements. I will focus on making sure that when we start the sealing for air tightness we include enough overlaps, especially at the floor and ceiling junctions.

    Back to the hips ....


    Ok - An engineered timber floor zone total shrinkage is more like 6-7mm rather than the full 10 for solid timber, so still a little movement, but not as much.

    Regarding the cladding - I had wondered what was going on as the lines of staples holding the breather membrane on all run horizontally - which is slightly unusual but makes sense now you say there are horizontal battens with insulation behind the breather membrane. I also was slightly confused because you can see an indent in the breather membrane where the rafter make contact with the wall - which is also unusual unless you have extra stuff like you have.

    Sounds like the combo of horiz battens then verticals should allow that movement to occur without propping up the first floor walls. As for air tightness (and on the subject of floor zones) did you use a propper floor zone air tightness detail? Are you using battens to form a service void on the inside?

    Anyway - sorry, well off track from your actual question :)
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeFeb 15th 2014
     
    Yes again! Battens galore inside the house ready to create the services voids on the walls and the first floor ceiling. Hopefully most of the issues considered if not sorted!

    Thanks again Timber - good to have someone checking. Regards, Jonathan
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeFeb 15th 2014
     
    Job done! Just the fascia and bracing to fit before the roofer arrives monday. Hopefully we can be back to fitting cladding by the end of next week. Many thanks guys.
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeMar 25th 2014
     
    Thought the kind people who gave such excellent advice might like to see the finished elevation - very satisfying to have finally completed the exterior of our wee house!! Thanks guys.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMar 25th 2014
     
    Well done!
    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeMar 25th 2014
     
    Yes, looking very good:smile:

    Jonti
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