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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    • CommentAuthorralphpr
    • CommentTimeSep 11th 2022
     
    Hello all

    I've been lurking for years and finally have an interesting project.Your help is sought.

    It's a rectangular 550 mm wall solid stone built 110 sq m cottage in Wiltshire with bats in the attic.

    Permission was granted in the teeth of the tree officer to extend it as an L shape ( a double pile was sought but encroached on two protected oaks so the wing doubles it in size hanging down on the eastern wall allowing good southern insolation to most windows)

    The dream of making it EnerPHit was stymied when we realised that 200mm of floor insulation would have required £30,000 of underpinning due to the lack of foundation -so we applied to demolish the unlisted building and replace it exactly as before benefiting from the VAT newbuild concession.

    And we nearly got away with it; on the eve of planning being granted, someone mentioned bats.

    £5,000 worth of surveys ( that found five bats and their DNA) and six months delayed we have reverted to the original planning and are out of the ground with the extension - alas only 100 mm full fill thermal block cavity as we need to match the stone coursing of the undemolished cottage on the outside, but 200mm floor fill.

    The cottage now has a reinforced concrete floor tray with a 125mm upturn allowing for 200mm there too and 125mm IWI. Triple glazing throughout to replace the Critalls.

    My first question is what to do about the bat attic.: the licence to remove them will come in November by which time we will have completed the shell.

    Do we strip the roof then and retile using a warm roof insulation or is it feasible to have an icy bat palace attic sitting on top of an insulated two floor box? The extension will be bat free and can have a warm roof.

    Second question on pargeing - I'm aiming for 3Ac/hr to be realistic for MVHR . I need an IWI soultion to optimise the 125mm.

    Many thanks

    Ralph
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 11th 2022
     
    I got a bit confused. :cry: Some photos or drawings might help.
  1.  
    Welcome.

    'Optimising the 125mm' IWI could mean interstitial condensation if you are not careful. Take a read of BEIS' new-ish (and in my view under-publicised) IWI Best Practice Guidance: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/retrofit-internal-wall-insulation-best-practice

    Basically that guidance suggests a ventilated cavity behind any insulant which is not vapour-open (such as wood-fibre).
  2.  
    Posted By: ralphprDo we strip the roof then and retile using a warm roof insulation or is it feasible to have an icy bat palace attic sitting on top of an insulated two floor box? The extension will be bat free and can have a warm roof.

    If I understand properly - you could have an ice bat attic by putting 300mm loft insulation (or as much as you want) on top of the ceiling. But obviously the cold attic should not connect to the warm roof.

    Any skeiling ceilings to accommodate?
  3.  
    Many species of bats really like to live in crevices, 15-25mm is ideal. Gaps behind cladding, or above eaves soffits are good. They don't all prefer to live in big open spaces like a whole roof void space, unless there are crevice spaces within that void. You can get bat boxes to build into walls, or portion off a little corner of the eaves triangle Like this
    https://www.bats.org.uk/our-work/buildings-planning-and-development/roost-replacement-and-enhancement/case-studies/conversion-of-redundant-barn-at-in-carmarthenshire

    They are magical creatures to have around, you know you have done a good job of managing the garden food-chain if a bat chooses to live with you. There are a few in our bay window roof, it's great looking out of the window on summer evenings and seeing them heading out for the night. You might not currently feel well disposed after all your expense but you may yet come to love them!

    Barn owls, on the other hand, would love to have use of your whole roof void...
    • CommentAuthorralphpr
    • CommentTimeSep 12th 2022
     
    Thank you so much for looking ; here are a couple of images; I'll put up more if these work...
    • CommentAuthorralphpr
    • CommentTimeSep 12th 2022
     
    here is the existing cottage from the north; the bats are in the attic
      existing-cottage.jpg
    • CommentAuthorralphpr
    • CommentTimeSep 12th 2022
     
    Dear Will

    Thanks for commenting .

    I have no animus against the bats ( apart from them stopping me building a full passive house); we are obliged to put in bat tiles, eaves gaps and nearby batboxes.

    The question is about whether I can create a thermal envelope around the lower floors of the cottage or whether it's going to be necessary to strip the roof and insulate the attic rafters and all in order to make the MVHR viable in air tightness terms.

    Interestingly, bitumen roof lining is allowed but breathable membrane fails the snag test for bats so the dratic route of abandoning the attic is being considered. : Ill send a photo of the massive cage we've had to build to hold up the ceiling while we excavate on the ground.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 12th 2022 edited
     
    There is a new and expensive bat-friendly breather felt

    https://roofin.co.uk/shop/tlx-bat-safe-bat-friendly-breathable-membrane/?gclid=CjwKCAjw3qGYBhBSEiwAcnTRLnw2uuTS-n_HExPsMd6Ra6YJEU7eBSX5T-sY9U192EpV7sgFWSdFaRoCF-UQAvD_BwE

    https://www.bats.org.uk/our-work/buildings-planning-and-development/non-bitumen-coated-roofing-membranes

    But, having a re-think, we are considering using 1F bituminous felt laid over the tops of the slating battens, no membranes below that, but a cross-ventilated cavity below the felt. Not unlike traditional Scottish practice. What would the team think about that? Wouldn't work with tiles, being hook-on and less proof, being not double-lap - but slates?? maybe plain tiles like this case as far as I can see??
  4.  
    Hi Ralph,
    As I understand it, the bats are allowed access to the 1" gap between the tiles and the felt, which is just the size they like, and to the triangle bits at the eaves and ridge that you don't use. Unless your permission says different?, some species like more space? Then the attic space inside the felt is for the humans!

    You could insulate between and beneath the rafters, with an airtight/ vapourtight layer on the inside of the insulation, both layers taken down to join onto the IWI in the walls, including down the gable ends. A 50mm ventilated gap between insulation and felt because it's not breathable.

    Or, if you need more space, you could take the tiles off and create an equivalent buildup with insulation and airtightness above the rafters, there would be some details to think about to avoid bridges and air leaks where the layers move inside to meet the IWI.

    The question is whether you have a use for a heated/ventilated attic space? if not then it could be simpler to insulate at ceiling level with a deep layer of glass wool over the joists. Airtightness beneath the joists as part of the ceiling, but complicated if there are many internal walls or lots of wiring that cross the airtightness line.

    We did both in different bits of our (similar) farmhouse, horses/courses.

    On your IWI question, we found the lumps and bumps in the stone meant we had to move the IWI inboard a couple of inches to fit flat boards between studs (PIR in our case for insulation value). The alternative is to render the wall flat first, then you can stick insulation boards to it and plaster over. Woodfibre is an option but watch the U value is sufficient. Also consider how exposed/waterproof the stone is, no point plastering onto stone that gets damp during driving rain.
    • CommentAuthorCliff Pope
    • CommentTimeSep 12th 2022
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: WillInAberdeen</cite>
    As I understand it, the bats are allowed access to the 1" gap between the tiles and the felt, which is just the size they like, and to the triangle bits at the eaves and ridge that you don't use. Unless your permission says different?, some species like more space? Then the attic space inside the felt is for the humans!

    </blockquote>

    Bats seem to be able to get through very small gaps if they want to. We have bats living in those triangular bits you mention, squeezing effortlessly through the spaces between the stones and woodwork high up under the gables.
    From there they get through over the top of the walls into the airing cupboard and all the normally closed cupboards running the length of the house. The attic rooms are original, with a staircase running down from the upper landing to the first floor. We share the house amicably with the bats. Most of the time they restrict themselves to the shut off parts of the attic, but they occasionally come downstairs. We just open a window and they fly off outside and go back in again at the top.
    They have no difficulty bypassing a cupboard door. Neither do the cats apparently. My wife opened the airing cupbard door this morning and found one asleep on a pile of bedding. It has obviously found a secret way through - perhaps under the floor boards.
    Live and let live :)
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 16th 2022
     
    Posted By: fostertomBut, having a re-think, we are considering using 1F bituminous felt laid over the tops of the slating battens, no membranes below that, but a cross-ventilated cavity below the felt. Not unlike traditional Scottish practice. What would the team think about that? Wouldn't work with tiles, being hook-on and less proof, being not double-lap - but slates?? maybe plain tiles like this case as far as I can see??
    I'd love some comment on this. If it's safe traditionally in Scotland, should be good for top of Dartmoor?!
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeSep 16th 2022
     
    Posted By: fostertom
    Posted By: fostertomBut, having a re-think, we are considering using 1F bituminous felt laid over the tops of the slating battens, no membranes below that, but a cross-ventilated cavity below the felt. Not unlike traditional Scottish practice. What would the team think about that? Wouldn't work with tiles, being hook-on and less proof, being not double-lap - but slates?? maybe plain tiles like this case as far as I can see??
    I'd love some comment on this. If it's safe traditionally in Scotland, should be good for top of Dartmoor?!
    I thought traditional Scottish practice involved sarking boards? Not sure where the membrane goes? If you'd asked I would have said between the battens and counterbattens (assuming not under both) but that's purely a guess.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 16th 2022 edited
     
    Thanks Dave. Sarking boards yes but the slates nailed direct to the boarding, no battens, as Scottish slates come in a gradation of lengths on a given roof, need to be able to nail at any spacing, not predictable for batten spacing. Traditionally, no felt. Later intermediate practice adds felt flat on the boards, nailed through, as attached. Current newbuild follows English felt under battens practice.

    I need the slating battens and downslope battens under them to form a cross-ventilated space, so no felt can go between them, would prevent cross-flow.
      Scottish slating.PNG
  5.  
    Interesting to see a bat thread as im shortly to be going through the same same problems..the extreme cost of the bat friendly membrane and the reluctance of the roofer to use bitumen felt.
    I have also heard that there is bat friendly wood preservative -that is also extremely expensive.

    Ill just have to cur corners on the insulation!
    • CommentAuthorJonti
    • CommentTimeSep 17th 2022
     
    One slight addition to fostertom's last post and the diagram in particular. Certainly in the Highlands, the practice is to only use one nail to hang slates not two as shown in the diagram. This has the advantage of not only allowing the slates to move in strong winds rather than break but also makes it easier to remove any slates.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 18th 2022
     
    Thanks jonti - also the point is that Scottish slates all vary in length so, tho roughly sorted for long at the top, short at eaves (or the reverse) and graded in between, still ea slate is nailed at different c/cs hence the impossibility of arranging battens at suitable c/cs.
  6.  
    The single nail also means that two adjacent slates can be wriggled and twisted apart from each other, to give access to the nail hole of the slate in the row below, so individual slates can be removed and re-fixed easily (without lead straps). The upper corners of the slate might be rounded off to help. The slates are thicker and heavier for strength, and to resist wind lifting them.

    The biggest slates go near the bottom (eaves) where there is the greatest quantity of water running down from above, it also gives a really nice false-perspective look. If a slate breaks, it is trimmed down a bit and reused higher up the roof.

    The sarking boards are individual planks with deliberate 1/2" gaps between each plank, so there is a huge airflow around the boards and between the slates to dry up whatever snow and mist do get blown through tiny gaps between slates, or any condensation. When it snows heavily, the slate gaps are blocked, and the wind over the roof sounds different - when you wake up you can tell it has snowed overnight, even before opening the curtains!


    IDK if bitumen felt would work in exactly the same way, but don't see why it wouldn't work, was used for the latter part of the 20thC.
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