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Products: Akvaterm Tank mixing valve

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  1.  
    • CommentAuthorpmusgrove
    • CommentTimeDec 4th 2011
     
    I have taken delivery of a Akvaterm Solar Plus tank to make best use of solar panels and back boilers. A thermostatic mixing valve came with it (an Oras 4200) with instructions in Finnish and Swedish. Having failed to find an English version on the internet I started to work out how it works. For some reason there is a cold water outlet as well as cold water inlet, hot water inlet and mixed outlet. Has anyone seen or fitted one of these mixers before?
  2.  
    hi,

    I had the same problem. I managed to use google translate to help figure stuff out.

    I'm just blanking the port off as it's in the wrong place for my plumbing.

    I think it may be used in other systems for the cold to come in via the bottom port, then the cold "out" feeds to the coil, and the hot returns thru the hot in port. This would be useful if your cold in and hot out coil ports were next to each other. With my Akvaterm tank the cold in is at the bottom and the hot out is at the top so it's less useful

    as another tip, when fitting screw connections to the tank ports don't bother with PTFE tape. I've had endless leak issues, I've had to drain down, and replace the tape with "boss white" jointing putty.

    Also the immersion heater ports are NOT the standard uk size you have to get a special unit (Navitron do some, other supplier are available etc).

    Good luck!:bigsmile:
    • CommentAuthorpmusgrove
    • CommentTimeDec 4th 2011
     
    Thanks for the info and the tips. This forum is so useful when doing out of the ordinary work. I had two plumbers around who professed to know all about this type of work but neither gave me a price for the work or came back! I am now doing it myself with a plumber who knows about solar and back boilers, doesn't pretend to know everything about this, and is on a day rate. So we are both learning as we go along.
    • CommentAuthorpmusgrove
    • CommentTimeDec 4th 2011
     
    Sorry to trouble you again; what tank thermostats did you use?
    • CommentAuthorsune
    • CommentTimeDec 5th 2011
     
    Hi Psmusgrove - if you whisper me your email address I will have a heating engineer mail you our annotated picture of the Oras valve which shows you all you need to know.

    Do use boss white,
    Don't use ptfe tape (it can't stand hi temps)
    DO use hemp as well.

    Honeywell stats are pretty good. BES do some cheaper Italian ones. With some you end up cutting a tiny bit of the tank insulation away so that the body of the stat fits well/flush and then filling the voids with insulation. Looks neat.

    Cheers

    Sune
  6.  
    Hi, sorry for the delay.

    I used the Honeywell stats (L6188).

    I had to use a dremel to cut a small rectangle out of the casing, then a pen knife to cut away the insulation. I ended up with a key hole shape.

    I had a lot of problems with fitting the compression fittings to the threaded ports on the tank.

    For some reason they have sunk the ports really far into the insulation and it's almost impossible to get a spanner on them.

    Get a set of box spanners to fit the nuts, I had to solder a 1 1/2"BSP to 1"BSP bush onto the back of a 1" BSP to 22mm compression fitting. Then I could use a box spanner that fitted to do the whole lot up.
    • CommentAuthorbillt
    • CommentTimeDec 5th 2011
     
    Posted By: beelbeebub
    I had a lot of problems with fitting the compression fittings to the threaded ports on the tank.

    For some reason they have sunk the ports really far into the insulation and it's almost impossible to get a spanner on them.


    The solution to that is to use suitable length nipples (a bit of pipe threaded at each end).
  8.  
    Very good solution! Probably the best method.

    Pity I didn't have the kit for that :sad:
    • CommentAuthorbillt
    • CommentTimeDec 6th 2011
     
    No kit needed, just buy them. BES sell them, among others.
    • CommentAuthorpmusgrove
    • CommentTimeDec 6th 2011
     
    Thanks for all the ideas; they should save me hours of time and a lot of heartache.
  11.  
    Posted By: billtNo kit needed, just buy them. BES sell them, among others.


    now I find out! :cry:
    • CommentAuthorpmusgrove
    • CommentTimeDec 7th 2011
     
    I have been on to the BES website but can only find barrell nipples at 1.1/4" which is the size needed for the Akvaterm tank. Does anyone know if these are long enough to get the pipe far enough out (of the insulation) to enable a connection to be made?
    • CommentAuthorbillt
    • CommentTimeDec 7th 2011
     
    They won't be long enough. Sorry, I think I misled you. I saw the extended nipples, but looking closely they don't seem to stock anything big enough.

    I got mine from a company called J L Leach, 150mm long.

    http://shop.jllleach.com/product_category.asp?Category_Id=3027&lm=14

    They'll make them to your requirements if you want a specific length.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeDec 7th 2011 edited
     
    Does the fact these are Iron make a difference? Do you need fittings etc to be non-ferrous?
    • CommentAuthorbillt
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2011
     
    As the tank's steel I don't see that it's a problem!
    • CommentAuthorpmusgrove
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2011
     
    Thanks BillT; spent some time looking last night but didn't find J L Leach but willtake a look now.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2011 edited
     
    Posted By: pmusgrove..........I have been on to the BES website but can only find barrell nipples at 1.1/4" which is the size needed for the Akvaterm tank.

    Paul, you could also look at BES part number 8317 ( black iron) or 8453 (galv). These are large 90 degree bends Male /Female 1.1/4 BSP, I don't know your layout so the bend may complicate. The large bend may allow you to get a good purchase and also perhaps clear the insul.? You could of course always get a bit of 1.1/4 iron pipe threaded Male/Female,- locally
    Having used much malleable iron on my own set up I would guestimate that the barrel nipples are about 60-70mm long, but you still have the problem of getting a stillson to them, i.e. no hex centre.
    For sealing large threads I used loctite 55.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2011
     
    Posted By: billtAs the tank's steel I don't see that it's a problem!
    Had a look at the website and it doesn't mention what it is made out of. I had assumed stainless steel. I can see why it may be steel but the coils are copper so are those fittings not brass? If connecting to an UFH system you may want non-ferrous on that loop.
    • CommentAuthorpmusgrove
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2011
     
    Thanks to everyone for their input into this problem of getting water out of Akvaterm tanks. I found J L Leach to be very helpful and will be recommending them if the promised extended nipples turn up and do the business.
    • CommentAuthorbillt
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2011
     
    The tank is steel AFAIK and the direct inputs are threaded bosses in the tank walls. The coils have brass threads but they aren't recessed, so are easy to get at.

    What's the concern? Presumably it's galvanic corrosion, but most normal central heating systems have multiple iron/copper connections at the radiators and at the boiler. Why does a steel tank make things worse?
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2011
     
    Posted By: billtThe tank is steel AFAIK and the direct inputs are threaded bosses in the tank walls. The coils have brass threads but they aren't recessed, so are easy to get at.
    Ah OK, that makes sense.

    Posted By: billtWhat's the concern? Presumably it's galvanic corrosion, but most normal central heating systems have multiple iron/copper connections at the radiators and at the boiler. Why does a steel tank make things worse?
    It will only matter depending on the type of heating and will not matter if using radiators. UFH usually (I believe) is required to be non ferrous, not sure about Solar and DHW must be non-ferrous/potable (AFAIK). What are you connecting directly to the tank? A Boiler? One of the sites I have looked at for this type of tank do talk about an inhibitor. Very interesting tank though.
    • CommentAuthorpmusgrove
    • CommentTimeDec 17th 2011
     
    I have now sorted out the problem of getting into the Akvaterm tank fittings with the help of the extended nipples supplied by J L Leach. Their stuff is on the web but be warned the on-line shop does not work. Their sales service over the phone is excellent though and recommended for the next person who has a problem fitting an Akvaterm tank!
    • CommentAuthorHairlocks
    • CommentTimeSep 27th 2012
     
    The J L Leach website still done not work and was confussed when I tried ordering them and why I had phoned them when I am not in Stoke-on-Trent. They directed me to http://www.indequip.co.uk going to try http://www.valves-online.co.uk as they seem a little cheaper.
    • CommentAuthorHairlocks
    • CommentTimeSep 27th 2012
     
    On a relate note. My solar Plus 750 tank say 1.5 Bar on it and looks like the maxium the solar coils and DHW should be limited at this. Is this correct as my mains water pressure is almost 5 bar. Do I need to install a presurre regulator?
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeSep 27th 2012
     
    Posted By: pmusgroveFor some reason there is a cold water outlet as well as cold water inlet
    Just a pass-through, for applications where you want to chain an array of these valves on one cold feed line? saves teeing off for ea valve.
  26.  
    .
  27.  
    Posted By: HairlocksOn a relate note. My solar Plus 750 tank say 1.5 Bar on it and looks like the maxium the solar coils and DHW should be limited at this. Is this correct as my mains water pressure is almost 5 bar. Do I need to install a presurre regulator?

    Usually the tanks have a pressure rating of 1.5 - 3 bar and the heat exchanger coils have a higher rating of 6 or above. Check the spec. of the coils in the tank.
    • CommentAuthorpmusgrove
    • CommentTimeSep 28th 2012
     
    Have had my Akvaterm running OK for some time now with the solar at 2 Bar and hot water at 3.5 and no problems.
    • CommentAuthorHairlocks
    • CommentTimeOct 8th 2012
     
    Out of interest I have ordered my immersion heaters, but my supplier cannot find a wrench to fit the nut for a 2" immersion heater, can anyone recommend where I can get one, or how they fitted theirs. Guess I you need to have a solution to replacing it later on in life.
    • CommentAuthorHairlocks
    • CommentTimeJan 17th 2013
     
    Sune,

    Please can I have the anotated picture of the Oras valve. trying to get a diagram for my plumber to use/understand (he doesn't use the internet).

    Thanks

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