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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorbardo
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2020
     
    I'm finishing a self build with suspended timber floor. Looking at oak floor and whether to go for solid or engineered wood. Am looking to glue T&G boards down to 18mm OSB which is fixed on top of ijoists insulated with 300mm of glasswool. The OSB is level and flat.

    Welcome advice on what to go for and how much I'll expect to pay for a decent product. Thanks in advance.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2020 edited
     
    Either solid or engineered both are fine. Solid obviously allows for future sanding and refinishing to a greater degree than engineered, but some engineered has a decent wear layer. Good quality engineered may work out dearer than solid and not available in as many size variants. For wide boards go engineered.
    Raw boards or pre finished is another question. I'd go for a pre sanded board and final finish yourself afterwards.
    As for fixing to a suspended floor, personally I'd use a Porta-Nailer and secret nail, it allows for movement more so than glueing although many adhesives profess flexibility. I also like the satisfied feeling that laying a whole nailed floor gives.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2020
     
    I would go floating floor using engineered planks
    • CommentAuthorbardo
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2020
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: tony</cite>I would go floating floor using engineered planks</blockquote>

    Why a floating floor Tony?
    • CommentAuthorbardo
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2020
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: owlman</cite>Either solid or engineered both are fine. Solid obviously allows for future sanding and refinishing to a greater degree than engineered, but some engineered has a decent wear layer. Good quality engineered may work out dearer than solid and not available in as many size variants. For wide boards go engineered.
    Raw boards or pre finished is another question. I'd go for a pre sanded board and final finish yourself afterwards.
    As for fixing to a suspended floor, personally I'd use a Porta-Nailer and secret nail, it allows for movement more so than glueing although many adhesives profess flexibility. I also like the satisfied feeling that laying a whole nailed floor gives.</blockquote>

    Thanks Owlman, why pre sanded? I've been offered at a good price high quality engineered 14 ply birch with 6mm oak top. The ones finished with either oil or lacquer are a little bit more expensive than the unfinished, though the cost of finishing myself is higher.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2020
     
    Finishing the floor yourself gives you greater flexibility and the future option to re-finish the inevitable dings and accidents. Lacquers are out as far as I'm concerned because once they're scratched you're bu..ered trying to get a good repair match, especially as some manufacturers incorporate dyes and colourants into the lacquer.
    Oiled is not so bad to match up but still not as easy as your own applied finish. If you go for a plain sanded board also look at one with a fine micro bevel rather than square edged. Once laid it's easy to put a nice ultra fine finish with a good orbital sander to remove any laying scuffs, hands and knees job there, followed by a good vac off, and two or three oil coats with a quality oil.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2020
     
    Just to add a random influence ....

    We went with stranded bamboo instead of engineered timber. It's much harder than wood and doesn't move much. We used a flexible Sika adhesive to stick it to a Caberfloor substrate and it's been fine so far (5 years). Visitors tell us it looks good and we think so to, of course.
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeOct 21st 2020
     
    Go for engineered, more stable, screw through the tongue using lost tite screws ( Toolstation) laid on a thin foam underlay. I have done that very successfully. Use an oil finish Osmo very good, several v thin coats 3 at least. Avoid pre-finished as previously mentioned it is difficult to match up if you need to repair.
  1.  
    We went for pre-oiled (engineeered) and have recoated with Osmo since.

    One advantage of pre-finished is that it does give you some protection from stains/marking while you're fitting (and also means you don't have to worry about difficult to reach areas (which don't get any wear and won't need reciting in future)
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 21st 2020
     
    Floating can be taken up easily, even reused, glued is likely to wreck the sheet material when it is taken up
    • CommentAuthorbardo
    • CommentTimeOct 21st 2020
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: Simon Still</cite>We went for pre-oiled (engineeered) and have recoated with Osmo since.

    Did the Osmo match well without discolouration?
    • CommentAuthorbardo
    • CommentTimeOct 21st 2020
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: tony</cite>Floating can be taken up easily, even reused, glued is likely to wreck the sheet material when it is taken up</blockquote>

    An experienced oak floor fitter advised me to use Sika glue as it provides stability and a good feel when walking. Can a floating floor be fitted direct onto the OSB or does it need a matting to ensure no movement?
    • CommentAuthorgoodevans
    • CommentTimeOct 21st 2020
     
    I too went for pre-oiled engineered floating laid before the skirting - it gave some protection whilst the builders, electricians and plumbers and were around - it took a coat of Osmo without issue (so far).

    Each plank interlocked with the neighbouring one length wise using a "S" shaped profile - In addition the end's also interlocked with some plastic inserts - in effect no gaps can form within the floor body - all movement will take place under the skirting and architraves. Because of the nature of the interlocks you need to plan very carefully for any planks that need to slide under any obstructions.
  2.  
    I laid a floating floor with the recommended expansion gap around the edges, hidden by the skirting. Some of the planks 'shuffled' themselves towards one wall over subsequent years, widening the gap on the opposite side so it was visible under the skirting, where it gobbled up dust and Lego bricks...
    Next time I would glue the floor down!
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeOct 21st 2020
     
    Too late now Will, but did you put the usual cork cushions as spacers into the expansion gap?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeOct 21st 2020
     
    Posted By: owlmanToo late now Will, but did you put the usual cork cushions as spacers into the expansion gap?

    I did it without at our previous house. Same problem :cry: The only other alternative, apart from ripping the skirting off to put some in, is to add some of that quarter round moulding they sell to expand the width of the skirting. But that looks naff IMHO.
  3.  
    Cheers Owlman, but it came as a system and it was quite specific not to have anything in the expansion gap - you put solid spacers in during fitting to set the correct expansion gap, but remove them when done.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeOct 22nd 2020 edited
     
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeOct 23rd 2020
     
    Posted By: owlmanEither solid or engineered both are fine. Solid obviously allows for future sanding and refinishing to a greater degree than engineered, but some engineered has a decent wear layer.


    Indeed. Some/many have a wear layer so thick that you can sand them as much as solid. eg enough that the T&G appears/fails before the wear layer runs out.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeOct 23rd 2020 edited
     
    We opted for 200mm wide 21mm thick engineered oak from Woods of Wales. Got it pre treated with hard wax oil so it just had to be fixed down. Been down 13 years now.
    • CommentAuthorbardo
    • CommentTimeOct 30th 2020
     
    So have opted for untreated engineered oak and glueing it down. Looking for a bonding agent which is zero or low VOC. Any recommendations? I'm presuming that glue will form an impermeable seal above the earthwool insulation below?
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeOct 30th 2020
     
    https://www.ambiencehardwoodflooring.co.uk/osmo-ms-trade-wood-flooring-adhesive-15kg.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzJblwu7c7AIVCLLtCh3ZKQb5EAQYASABEgKUo_D_BwE

    I use this - data and safety sheets are on the page, for perusal versus VOC.

    This is a good price too.
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