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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
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Housing - New Build: Barge Boards, facias and soffits etc

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  1.  
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeMar 8th 2014 edited
     
    I'm considering what material to use for my barge boards, ideally something durable, I have no desire to be u a double extension ladder in a few years time painting and maintaining them.

    So what would you be using that is durable? I suggested uPVC to the architects and was met with disdain.

    Edited ... and not forgetting facials and soffits. Do I actually need any of these or can they be designed out?
    • CommentAuthorFred56
    • CommentTimeMar 8th 2014
     
    Western Red Cedar, Osmo oil. Silva. Expensive but worth it.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMar 8th 2014
     
    Western red cedar, no treatment, soffits are OK as normal pine again untreated
  4.  
    I've used Western Red Cedar for barge boards and fascias and marine ply for soffits which are wide, all untreated.
  5.  
    It depends on climate, exposure and appearance. If you live in a period house, uPVC is likely to clash. If noy, uPVC is probably the best option - secured with stainless fixings.

    In wet climates (eg Wales, NW, SW England) most untreated timbers will fail, either by rot or splitting. Seasoned oak might do. Also, the most rot-resistant (eg Iroko) tend to warp badly over time. If using marine ply, you need the very best grade and you must seal edges with waterproof wood glue or similar.

    If you ignore my advice, at least ensure any timber used has a very dense grain and is unexpectedly heavy.

    You could also consider accoya (acetylated soft wood - see web)
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMar 8th 2014 edited
     
    Cedar? is used widely for roofing shingles, does not rot
    • CommentAuthorwoodgnome
    • CommentTimeMar 8th 2014
     
    Aluminium..?
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeMar 8th 2014
     
    Do you mean fascias and soffits? key question is what colour? If a medium to dark brown/black then treated wood, 2 coats on back and 3 on front before going up, making sure that any cut ends are given a good coat before fitting with something like Sadolins Green (the stuff in green tins) - B&Q often do a 3 for price of 2 offer on 2.5L tins.

    Finally, once up give it at least one more coat and you should be good for 10yrs or so (depending on climate and exposure).

    You can do this with white, but lots more coats.

    PVC does degrade depending on your location - look around and see what has been used locally and how it has weathered.
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeMar 8th 2014
     
    Do I actually need any of these or can they be designed out?
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2014
     
    Traditional cottages do not usually have any fascia or soffit. Block/render goes right up to underside of tile/slate and gutter is secured with rafter brackets. Same on gable end with slates sitting tight against render.
  11.  
    Barge boards are not essential. I am looking at my neighbour's gable (house built probably late 19th C), and he has none- just a mortar fillet at the verge. Ditto he has no fascias - typical 'Sheffield' (and elsewhere, I am sure) detail of c 40mm oversail straight into timber gutter.
  12.  
    Thatched cottages don't have fascias or barge boards, don't know if they have soffits.
    • CommentAuthorFred56
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2014
     
    Richmondshire does not like fascias or bargeboards and insist on flush verges and eaves and also on spike rise and fall brackets for gutters. This rule applies to individuals only. Big developers can do whatever they want, take a drive around Richmond or Catterick to get the flvour of this. Also make you build on a false chimney and use copings up the verges. The latter is a pain as it costs, leads to water ingress and is tricky to secure to a cavity wall.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2014
     
    Posted By: Fred56............ and use copings up the verges. The latter is a pain as it costs, leads to water ingress and is tricky to secure to a cavity wall.

    Although seen on old buildings I've never understood why this is used, to my eye it looks totally out of place on a new building, a daft and useless detail IMO.

    Posted By: borpin. . Block/render goes right up to underside of tile/slate and gutter is secured with rafter brackets. Same on gable end with slates sitting tight against render.

    Yes and crazy. Why put on a roof, if it doesn't protect. A case of planners flexing their muscles I guess.
    :sad:
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2014 edited
     
    I only like cloaked verges with positive drips and NO UNDERCLOAKS otherwise omit barge boards if you like,
    • CommentAuthorfuncrusher
    • CommentTimeMar 10th 2014
     
    where stone was the local material, parapet gables were the norm in quality houses, because the slates don't get blown off (old houses usually oriented facing south, so gable to west and prevailing gales). Stones slabs were impervious to water and lead flashed.
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeMar 10th 2014
     
    Just remember the old adage - a building needs strong boots and a broad hat (okay, so I tweaked that one a bit!!). But the need for a good base and proper protection from rain is a basic requirement. A skimpy verge or eaves will usually result in staining or worse. Look at all those architect designed building with clever walls with no decent sized drip courses - stained something rotten - just ridiculous!

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