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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2011
     
    I've made an offer on a very dilapidated pub in a conservation area that I'm applying for 'change of use' into a new home for me and the wife etc.

    So a quick look around the building with the architect and we've come to the conclusion that we’ll need to demolish all but the front elevation. So this set me thinking on how best to spend our budget - if there were ten things you would do when rebuilding, (ranked in order of importance) what would they be and why?

    Things I have in mind are --
    Heating - type, why?
    Under-floor heating to ground floor?
    Air/Ground source heat? which one and why? Is it worth the effort?
    Insulation, where and how thick?
    Lighting - low voltage or standard?
    Thermal store? How big
    Double or triple glazing? Timber or plastic?
    Wood burning stove or not? Back boiler?
    Air tight?
    Type of construction for replacement elements - timber frame or block or SIPs, then render ( to match the vernacular).
    Solar hot water?
    PV array?

    Anything else you would do if it were you and why?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2011
     
    Insulation to U=0.1 or better
    Air tight less than one
    MHRV
    3g
    Solar both
    Heavyweight construction
    No heating or heating bills, installation, repairs or maintainance or replacement,
  1.  
    You literally going to knock down the whole lot except for the front wall?

    Wouldn't hat class it as a new build? I don't think that's a renovation anymore :)

    Is it detached or properties on either side? urban or rural?
    Whats the climate- sub tropical, arid, arctic, temperate?
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2011
     
    Posted By: TriassicThings I have in mind are --
    Heating - type, why?
    Under-floor heating to ground floor?
    Air/Ground source heat? which one and why? Is it worth the effort?
    Insulation, where and how thick?
    Lighting - low voltage or standard?
    Thermal store? How big
    Double or triple glazing? Timber or plastic?
    Wood burning stove or not? Back boiler?
    Air tight?
    Type of construction for replacement elements - timber frame or block or SIPs, then render ( to match the vernacular).
    Solar hot water?
    PV array?


    Going to rearrange that:

    Air tight (you live in the air not the fabric probably makes the largest difference)
    Insulation, where and how thick (Everywhere and as much as possible, the lower the U-Value the lover the energy loss)
    Double or triple glazing? Timber or plastic (Just look at the numbers, I would go timber as they look better)
    Type of construction for replacement elements - timber frame or block or SIPs, then render ( to match the vernacular) (This is probably decided for you by the above)
    Heating - type, why (pretty open if your usage is tiny)
    Air/Ground source heat? which one and why? Is it worth the effort (if you go heat pump, and you don't have a large river/ocean, then go GSHP with boreholes)
    Wood burning stove or not? Back boiler (Don't)
    Thermal store? How big (just a large water tank, reduce the need and you can dispense with the cost (though you will need it for ST)
    Under-floor heating to ground floor (Underfloor does not get in the way, but hardly makes any difference performance wise, go for think screed to reduce response time)
    Lighting - low voltage or standard (it is the Wattage not the voltage that matters)
    • CommentAuthorseascape
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2011
     
    Insulation/airtightness/ ventilation. Don't forget passive solar input. Re PV/ST - good way to go but no good if you don't have pitch or aspect - I wasted a lot of time researching this for my south facing house - only to look at the plans again to find my roof has 10 degree pitch instead of 30! Currently looking at woodburner/ASHP/sunspace options now....
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2011
     
    Posted By: seascapesunspace options


    Have you been to Mike Griggs place?
    • CommentAuthorseascape
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2011
     
    On the list!!!!
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2011
     
    Well the area he uses to heat his house is almost as large as the area my house sits on, and it does not scale down well for a number of reasons.
    • CommentAuthorqeipl
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2011
     
    1. Lots of south facing glass (3g) - to capture solar energy.
    1. Insulate (U=0.1 or better) - to prevent energy (solar + other) energy from escaping.
    1. Air tight - ditto.
    1. No cold bridges anywhere - ditto
    1. Unheated, insulated porches/lobbies at all exterior doors - ditto.
    1. Lots of internal thermal mass - to store energy.
    1. MVHR

    All of the above are equally important.

    8. Solar thermal feeding ASHP DHW (300 litre +).
    9. UFH running off second coil in ASHP DHW cylinder.

    These two will take care of your DHW and space heating for most of the year.

    10. Whatever auxiliary heat source is most convenient - to provide DHW and space heating for the few weeks of the year that the sun doesn't work.

    11. PV - if you have cash left over.
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeDec 5th 2011 edited
     
    I've been thinking and researching the various options discussed above and was wondering about the payback times of each option so as to prioritise them. Does anyone have any suggestions regarding payback of each.

    In one example of EWI, the payback was between 20 and 50 years depending upon energy costs. I may be around in 20 years, but not sure I'll be here in 50 years to celebrate the day its paid for itself?
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeDec 5th 2011
     
    Triassic,

    Bear in mind the increase in fuel costs, estimate electricity will be double its present cost in 4 years, 10 times its current cost in 15 years.....

    .... payback period for EWI/reduced energy demand will be greatly reduced too!

    Cheers...:smile:
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