Hi all,

Business at my small startup has been good (our first proper winter selling season just past), and I'm moving into a small industrial unit (10 metres by 5 metres, which is still over three times larger than the extended shed I was producing in before).

However, it's going to be a nightmare to heat. The rear wall is just solid brick and stone. The end walls are breeze block or brick, but at least not external (other units on other side of them). The near wall is breeze block with a double, very poorly fitting garage door. The floor is bare concrete and the ceiling is some kind of corrugated metal.

My product is an energy saving one, so I'd feel a right hypocrite if I didn't insulate it at least to an extent.

First off I think I need to fill lots and lots of gaps, particularly where ceiling beams meet the walls and around the garage door. I'm thinking of stuffing rockwool in the biggest gaps, and using expanding foam for smaller holes. Thoughts on that plan would be appreciated.

Beyond that, I'd sincerely appreciate advice as to what I should do next and prioritise re: walls, ceiling and floor. Funds are very tight, so there will probably be a limit to what I can do, but I'd like to have a plan and a target to work towards over time.

Many thanks in advance.

Key to the insulation plan is the intended use. Is it to have an office occupied throughout the working day? Or some manufacturing or assembly areas ?

In short what is the expected occupancy duration and purpose as this will dictate what is required / reasonable for the unit

Posted By: GarethCThere will be at least one person there all day, and hopefully more in future.

If you are going to upgrade the structure and are out-looking an employee it would be best to do it so that it complies with the work place regs now so that the job doesn't have to be done twice.

Posted By: GarethCWe may use other adhesives in future, and I'd be very concerned to maintaint adequate ventilation if we did.

Plan for a small MVHR unit that can be installed when needed (or never) The cheapest time to make provision for this or at least understand where it would go is now. Until then can you have a window to open,

Posted By: GarethCThe near wall is breeze block with a double, very poorly fitting garage door.

Do vehicles need to go into the building? If not then (assuming you can get permission to replace them) I would replace then with second hand UPVC patio doors or alike and infill any remaining space with timber framing with OSB both sides and insulation between with perhaps a second hand UPVC window within the timber framing if appropriate.. I have found the thin film acrylic render as used for EWI very good on OSB, it has outlasted paint and disguises the fact that it is OSB whereas paint advertises the OSB.

The ceiling looks like a thermal disaster. I see the big problem with this will be condensation forming on the steel beams and corrugated roof panels.
If you have the height then I would put in an insulated false ceiling with a v.good VCL on the inside and a breathable membrane on the outside with the void above well ventilated.

For the floor, depending upon loads etc. I would put down some 100 grade (or higher, load dependant) ESP with flooring OSB over. The thickness depends upon the height and wallet available but 2-3 cm EPS (or xps) will make a tremendous difference. That would be my practical suggestion but building regs might over-ride practical options.

For the walls, are the units adjoining heated space, if not the treat as external walls. If EWI can't be put on any of the walls then its IWI which I would suggest as (in to out) OSB or plaster board, VCL timber battens with insulation between. I would run services in trunking outboard of the internal surface and not inside the timber framing.

If you are looking to employ someone (other than family) then some wash room facilities and rest area will be needed along with outside awareness (aka window / natural light opportunity) The patio doors mentioned above might suffice, Consult the work place regs now to understand what will be needed eventually and make easy provision now.

Edit
A quick dip into the HSE regs shows no minium / max temp. but gives guidance of 16deg.C So its what you will need to have workers that will be the driver.

youve got to tell us what the product is now!

(unless it needs to be kept under raps for a bit)

Apologies to be slow to reply. Not enough hours in the day.

I've decided to go for it, and am making a plan along the lines of the advice given here. Thank you very much all. I hope you don't mind if I come back with further questions.

Before I do that, I'll organise a lease with a decent term. The landlady is very happy to do that. I wonder what term I should request?

The proximity of this unit to my home (3 mins by bike) makes it worth upgrading rather than going for one in better condition but further away (they're like hen's teeth around here).

Impressive

That's extremely kind I appreciate it. Use the discount code "tenpercentoff" at checkout. Apologies can't do more but my margins aren't really where they need to be yet (and materials price increases seem to come through every month).

I wasn't happy with the options available for my own sash and case windows, and this was a case of "why can't I buy something like this." It took me a surprisingly long time to develop a solution I was happy with, and the process is still ongoing.

It's just so hard and/or expensive to upgrade the thermal performance of period properties, I just hope I'm making it easier for people to make a bit of progress. It's encouraging that most of my customers have looked at all of the existing options and discounted them for one reason or another. It's nice to provide another option.

Hard to overstate how encouraging positive statements like that are, given that forum members know what they're talking about, thank you James!

I'm working on a version with low emissivity film applied, which would provide a really attractive U-value relative to alternatives if we can nail it.

And hopefully will engage someone on the insulation before long. The supposedly 10kW heater we're using at the moment does nothing.

Both rock wool and glass wool will create dust and drop fibres but rock wool is not as bad as glass wool dust (IMO).
I would use rock wool but put it in bin liners sealed up by tied string before stuffing the gaps.

Many thanks both, much appreciated. I just want a short term bodge job to fill in the most nuts gaps, so I think rockwool in bags plus expanding foam liberally applied will do the trick. Organising to get the place done properly is going to take me a while.