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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthortbhulse
    • CommentTimeFeb 23rd 2015
     
    Hi, we're doing a new build at the moment where the architect has specified render on the 1st floor with cedar cladding on the ground floor immediately below. The upper floor projects so that the face of the render is flush with the face of the cladding below (which will be double battened). The construction is dense concrete block. My feeling is that without putting a belcast-type beading on the bottom edge of the render to kick water out somewhat we will end up with water running down and dripping onto the top of the cedar which doesn't sound good for the longevity of the cedar. Would appreciate your thoughts and suggestions.

    Tim
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 23rd 2015 edited
     
    I would like to see 40 to 50mm overhang of the render and have it going up 15mm higher than the bottom of the bell cast or drip bead
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeFeb 24th 2015
     
    Its the architects problem, it should be better spec`d and if you have concerns with any feature you should ask hir/her , after all they have been paid to come up with a cohesive design.


    however
    the cedar wont suffer from drenching, but it may stain unevenly, which is all by the by as it gradually turn grey/black anyway. i would take care to use stainless fixing around cedar as the oil attacks galvanize and i would protect it against render splashes ar the lime can have a staining effect on some timbers?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeFeb 24th 2015
     
    What about turning the whole idea on it's head and putting the cedar cladding on the upper floor? Just an idea.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 24th 2015
     
    good idea too!
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeFeb 24th 2015
     
    In this instance I like the easy approach, tony.

    As an02ew pointed out the runoff from the render may well play havoc with the timber, unless you architect has visions of some super, (and most likely expensive), nano-tech render. If not, future painting of the render may also be tedious and involve a lot of masking.
    • CommentAuthortbhulse
    • CommentTimeFeb 24th 2015
     
    Thanks for the feedback. Don't disagree re: architect or turning it on its head, but architect and client not talking and client unlikely to agree a swap. yes it's an expensive lime render with nanopor paint finish.
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeFeb 25th 2015
     
    Posted By: owlmanWhat about turning the whole idea on it's head and putting the cedar cladding on the upper floor? Just an idea.

    not a good idea if the cedar starts to leave streaking down the render? could happen especially from fresh cut timber
    • CommentAuthorgenau
    • CommentTimeFeb 25th 2015
     
    Does not sound great that client and architect are not talking.

    As a lurker here I have nothing to contribute re the actual way forward other than I would put your concerns to both parties in an email; if they insist on continuing and things go wrong you can at least say " I told you so" and you wont be doing any remedial work at your expense.
    • CommentAuthorGreenfish
    • CommentTimeFeb 25th 2015
     
    FWIW I have not had any streaking issues with cedar clading above render. However part from architect and client not talking, turning the idea on its head would be a planning issue. Possibly covered by non-material change fee depending on the council, but as asignificant change to the external appearence strictly you need permission.

    Let us know what solution you come to.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeFeb 26th 2015
     
    If the block is overhanging will you treat it as you would the top of a window reveal i.e. the render goes back the way towards the cladding? If so, I'd put another bead in there so the cladding can slot behind the bead and then use an expanding pu foam tape to provide the seal between the 2.
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