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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeJun 20th 2014 edited
     
    So I've started planning to demolish the old timber bungalow on our new build site. At present we are supplied with electricity via an overhead supply from one of three power poles in our garden.

    So having taken advice from an electrician friend he suggests we drop the overhead supply down the power pole and terminate it in a box. This will help reduce costs, as terminating the supply in a box containing the main fuse and switch and meter is priced by the Power Company as one job (to move it to a temporary box and then move it back into the new house is two jobs and hence twice the price). We would then distribute the power within the site via ducts to the house, garage and shed.

    So the question is what sort of box? He's suggested a brick build box with EDP roof, however he did also say that GRP enclosures are available in green (helps hide the thing within the garden. What did you do? Any suggestions?
    • CommentAuthorskyewright
    • CommentTimeJun 20th 2014 edited
     
    Posted By: TriassicSo having taken advice from an electrician friend he suggests we drop the overhead supply down the power pole and terminate it in a box.

    I Am Not An Electrician, but there are two possibly relevant examples within 300m of here.

    a) Fixed Caravan: They have an IP rated plastic box attached to a board that is attached to the pole.
    Up until about 3 years ago it was just a simple timber box on the same back board, but (IIRC) the door fell off when the meter reader came!
    The IP box is one that was available "off the shelf" at the local Jewson branch. The change over from timber box to plastic was done by a local electrician.

    b) Croft house with 4 holiday cottages all on the same single phase supply: They have a small blockwork enclosure a few feet from the bottom of the pole. The enclosure is the shape of a pent shed but the size of a very large kennel, & houses the incoming supply, private meters for the cottages & space over for a good sized inverter (wind turbine).
  1.  
    I've just had UK Power Networks out to do a site survey of my site with the view to set up a temporary supply. They were very specific on the type of structure they will accept to locate the supply in. It can be brick built and basic, but needs to meet specific dimensions and have a lockable door etc... I asked the gentleman who did my site survey about plastic boxes I heard you could buy. He mentioned they would install in a certain manufacture's box, but they cost around £1,000 and are only really economical if you can re-use them across multiple sites.

    I've found UK Power Networks pretty helpful, although not cheap, so I'd give them a call.
    • CommentAuthorJamster
    • CommentTimeJun 20th 2014
     
    We used the bog standard box you build into a wall type structure, screwed to a fence, a couple of posts will do as long as its relatively safely sited and won't be squashed by anything. £60 a Jewsons I think or you can have ours for postage! No problems with temporary install, got sparky to fit a mini box and a few sockets inside.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 20th 2014
     
    Posted By: TriassicSo having taken advice from an electrician friend he suggests we drop the overhead supply down the power pole and terminate it in a box. This will help reduce costs, as terminating the supply in a box containing the main fuse and switch and meter is priced by the Power Company as one job (to move it to a temporary box and then move it back into the new house is two jobs and hence twice the price). We would then distribute the power within the site via ducts to the house, garage and shed.

    Presumably the meter will go in the box? If so, won't you need to use whatever the local DNO specifies for meter boxes. From the sound of it that's UK Power in your area but the type of box is region-dependent as I understand it.

    Also note that if you put the meter at the bottom of the pole then you won't need ducts to distribute the power because after the meter you will have to use armoured cable to distribute the power. That doesn't need a duct and if you do use a duct it needs a big one! (Don't ask me how I know this :sad: )
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeJun 21st 2014
     
    Remember with any utility quote, there are contestable and non-contestable costs. Non-contestable - the power company have to do; contestable you can get anyone to do. So laying duct/tarmac is contestable, connecting the cable to the meter is non-contestable. Not always clear in their paperwork.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 22nd 2014
     
    Posted By: borpinRemember with any utility quote, there are contestable and non-contestable costs. Non-contestable - the power company have to do; contestable you can get anyone to do. So laying duct/tarmac is contestable, connecting the cable to the meter is non-contestable. Not always clear in their paperwork.

    It's true that some elements you can do and some must be done by particular providers. The cable from the local mains distribution is laid by the local DNO (either in a duct you laid or in a trench you or they dig). You must provide an approved meter box. The meter is installed and connected to that cable by your chosen electricty supplier (often subcontracted to a meter company). Not all electricity suppliers are willing to install a meter; I had to go with a big six firm, but you can change the supplier the day after the install. The meter is connected to your distribution box (using the meter tails) by your electrician (but the tails must be present when the meter is installed, if I understood what happened on my recent installation).

    Note that the above concerns your land. In the highway, the utility dig the trench and install and connect the cable, and make good the road. If there is tarmac on your land adjacent to the highway, you don't need to use the utility for that part but you must use a contractor who has local highways approval.
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeJun 22nd 2014
     
    Posted By: djhNote that the above concerns your land. In the highway, the utility dig the trench and install and connect the cable, and make good the road. If there is tarmac on your land adjacent to the highway, you don't need to use the utility for that part but you must use a contractor who has local highways approval.
    May be different in England, but in Scotland, as long as you prepare the hole to the utility spec (size of hole usually) any highway approved contractor can do the hole and the duct. Often this is a way to reduce cost if you can do multiple utilities at once as the cost of tarmac is just silly.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 22nd 2014
     
    Posted By: borpinMay be different in England, but in Scotland, as long as you prepare the hole to the utility spec (size of hole usually) any highway approved contractor can do the hole and the duct. Often this is a way to reduce cost if you can do multiple utilities at once as the cost of tarmac is just silly.

    How do you persuade the electricity, gas and water people to all come on the same day to make their connections, or even the same month?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJun 22nd 2014
     
    Impossible
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeJun 23rd 2014
     
    Posted By: djhHow do you persuade the electricity, gas and water people to all come on the same day to make their connections, or even the same month?
    Get a road opening permit for a longer period and use either a plate or temporary fill. Depends on the road of course. Gas and elec were pretty good for me (SPN and SGN) coming when I needed - water a complete pain in the $%£$. Still, managed to get it done in one go although Gas did mole it in the end then gave me a refund on what I had paid. They were also the cheapest and least hassle!

    Not saying it is always possible, but saving big bucks on tarmac can be had.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 24th 2014
     
    Posted By: borpinGet a road opening permit for a longer period

    Sounds like you live in a different country! :bigsmile:
    • CommentAuthorargy
    • CommentTimeJun 24th 2014
     
    Shevek

    I've been in a similar position with our new build ie old bungalow to be demolished fed by an overhead electricity supply that crossed the road opposite to the plot and then went via several poles across the plot to another property with a terminal coming off the pole to the bungalow

    To save duplicate costs I put in a green GRP kiosk on the plot boundary close to entry point of the overhead cable(the only one I could source was from Image Composites £795 - a concrete base is also needed with ducting - UK Power Networks have the spec of what they require). UK Power Networks then relaid the cable underground across the road and through the plot, disconnected the supply to the bungalow and made the connection to the kiosk (cost was £1400 which was cheap but I had discovered they didn't have a wayleave across the plot to supply the other property)

    The electricity provider then put in the meter into the kiosk and the supply to the house was laid underground from the kiosk (the house is 50m away from the kiosk so the cable had to be upgraded to deal with the voltage drop)

    I used an extension lead to the kiosk for a temporary supply while the new house was being built
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeJun 25th 2014
     
    Posted By: argyTo save duplicate costs I put in a green GRP kiosk on the plot boundary close to entry point of the overhead cable(the only one I could source was from Image Composites £795 - a concrete base is also needed with ducting
    Thanks, this is exactly my situation, the Green kiosk is just what I need.
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeJun 26th 2014
     
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 26th 2014
     
    Posted By: joe90Would this not do?

    I think they're talking about something slightly larger. The important point with meter boxes is to make sure you buy one that is approved by your local DNO (and ditto for the hockey stick). I believe they can be very little england otherwise.
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeJun 27th 2014 edited
     
    I think I want something like this http://www.meterboxes.co.uk/ic6-grp-kiosk.html . It's large enough to put the meter, the main switch, the fuse holder, earth bar and my 6 way distribution board.

    I suppose the next task is to ensure the DNO is happy with what is proposed. Anyone got a helpful contact in Electricity North West?

    Thanks for all you help.
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeJun 27th 2014
     
    Gosh, a grand for a temporary box!!!!. I will be contacting my DNO soonish as I am in a similar position, will let you know.
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeJun 27th 2014 edited
     
    Posted By: joe90Gosh, a grand for a temporary box!!!!
    My box will be permanent as it saves me money, I need to do a disconnection from the house to be demolished, move the cable into the box. If it were temporary I'd have to pay for a reconnection in the future when the new build is complete.

    As for the grand, I'll be watching out for one on Ebay, Bidspotter and the like. There must be one out there waiting for a new home!

    The fall back position is a blockwork home-made jobby.
    •  
      CommentAuthorjoe90
    • CommentTimeJun 27th 2014
     
    I would have thought a blockwork DIY jobby would have been a lot cheaper:shocked: Mine will be temp and yet to get a price for the disconn/reconn!!!!
  2.  
    @joe90 - I've been charged £1,900 (inc VAT) for my temporary site supply. I have to build the temporary supply box and run a burried pipe to an appointed position next to the highway and then UK Power Netorks come and do the connection. It certainly isn't cheap.....
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeJun 27th 2014 edited
     
    Here you go GRP kiosks starting bid £50 http://www.bidspotter.co.uk/en-gb/search-results?searchTerm=grp

    Located at Silvertown Quays (former LPG site Burt Road entrance), North Woolwich Road, London, E16 2AF
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2014
     
    Posted By: Triassicand my 6 way distribution board.
    Surely you want that in the house unless it is for the temporary supply. A 100amp DP switch and then connect to a cable to supply the house which in itself is then terminated at the distribution box. Or am I missing something.
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2014
     
    Six way as I have a separate garage, shed, garden annexe, the main house and a couple spare, all there spread around a one acre plot.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJul 1st 2014
     
    Posted By: TriassicSix way as I have a separate garage, shed, garden annexe, the main house and a couple spare, all there spread around a one acre plot.

    My meter is mounted on the [detached] garage wall. Inside the garage is a sixteen way consumer unit at my electrician's recommendation. There are already several circuits in the garage (lights, sockets, water heater, external lights, electric car charge point) and larger CUs don't cost much more. There'll be another CU inside the house.
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