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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeMar 12th 2015 edited
     
    I'm about to fix my sole plate, below which is a damp proofing course and then a radon barrier.

    Should I be sealing the radon and DPL to each other and then sealing the sole plate to the damp proof course? For air tightness!

    If so, what product would you use?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMar 12th 2015
     
    All air tightness layers/barriers need to be sealed together, what is the air tightness barrier in the walls?
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeMar 13th 2015 edited
     
    I was thinking of using MDPE sheet, Visqueen type material on the inside face of the studs, with a 25mm service void and plaster board.

    If I can get some sheets of Fermacell at the right price I may use that, rather than plaster board, to see what it's like to work with.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMar 13th 2015
     
    what is floor, screed, floating?etc
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeMar 13th 2015
     
    Floating timber, over concrete, over 200mm of insulation and radon/dpm barrier.
    • CommentAuthorTriassic
    • CommentTimeMar 13th 2015 edited
     
    '
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMar 13th 2015
     
    i would bring the floor membrane up the inside face of the t/f and trap the vb to it so not take it under the sole plate, you can use wide dpc and turn this upwards inside too.
  1.  
    When my timber frame was installed the company installing it used a seal under it that was the width of the wall section and was like a soft rubber with tubes running through it that was designed to act as both a DPM and airseal.

    Sorry I don't have a brand name bu someone on here might recognise what I am on about!
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMar 14th 2015
     
    Posted By: Chris P BaconWhen my timber frame was installed the company installing it used a seal under it that was the width of the wall section and was like a soft rubber with tubes running through it that was designed to act as both a DPM and airseal.

    Sorry I don't have a brand name bu someone on here might recognise what I am on about!

    I think that's fairly normal practice in many countries, but I forget exactly what the purpose is. Trelleborg is one brand, I think. But why do you need to airseal the studwork? Is it just for thermal bypass?
  2.  
    Posted By: djhBut why do you need to airseal the studwork?
    You can get sizeable gaps under the sole plate due to any warps or twists in the timber. I remember on my previous TF build the erectors packing gaps with slate in some spots.

    The airtightness layer is inboard of this, so there is no danger in terms of the overall airtightness of the house but there is a risk of "wind washing" the insulation particularly in a case such as mine where mineral wool insulation is used and there is presumably also a condensation risk from humid air.


    I should have guessed at Trelleborg having a solution especially as I live 15kms away from the town that gives the company it's name and where the HQ is!

    http://www.trelleborg.com/en/Sealing-Profiles/Solutions/Other-Building/
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2015
     
    Posted By: Chris P Bacon"wind washing"

    Right, yes "thermal bypass" is the posh name for wind washing :bigsmile:
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2015
     
    One of the mechanisms of thermal bypass is wind washing there are quite a few other for heat to be lost in bypassing
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