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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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  1.  
    Hi, we're rebuilding a barn using solid green oak frames, with wooden sliding folding doors in the large (formerly) threshing barn doorways. A visitor mentioned using adjustable fixings for the door frames so that as the oak posts shrink or distort, the frame can be adjusted to remain square and true - clearly important for these elaborate door types.
    Does anyone know of such a product? I've been searching without luck. Any help appreciated!! Thanks
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeOct 3rd 2012
     
    Be very careful, about mounting these doors in anything that isn’t completely stable, these doors are extremely heavy and need a good solid ground weather top hung or bottom rolled, my experience is they have little tolerance for building movement, a problem compounded if you have ordered triple glazed. we have been in extensive talks with our supplier about our particular odd mounting condition and have had to have steel supports designed and fabricated for them to fit and offer there 5 year guarantee.

    On another project were movement may have been an issue the doors have stopped working altogether. I expect lengthy discussion between fitters and supplier?

    My advice is to get your supplier to install and offer some sort of guarantee say 1-2 years that would cover the initial movement period. Make sure they are aware even if casually that it is a green oak structure, and then there is no blaming the building.



    Posted By: coversfarmA visitor mentioned using adjustable fixings for the door frames

    Screws are adjustable:rolling:sorry could resist that.
    • CommentAuthorBeau
    • CommentTimeOct 3rd 2012
     
    I know the title says adjustable bolts but similar to the joke above are not all bolts adjustable. I use these adjustable screws, the difference being that the wood stays locked onto the rings around the head when you adjust the screw.
    http://www.aspltd.co.uk/distance-screws.php
    But I would not consider for your purpose.
    •  
      CommentAuthornigel
    • CommentTimeOct 3rd 2012
     
    The green oak will twist,warp and shrink. The gap around the frame is also going to open up as the oak shrinks.
    I would have thought you are going to have to use cover boards and wider joints to allow for movement.

    I
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeOct 3rd 2012
     
    I think youre on a hiding to nothing with fitting this type of precision running gear into such an opening. If it were me I would construct a good solid freestanding frame complete with running gear. You could use glulam possibly even oak glulam for the purpose. Sit this on its own concrete base and insert it into the green oak opening. If you need to anchor the freestanding door and frame to the building you could look at something like two or three stainless shield anchors fixed to the green oak and then fixed to stout stainless brackets on the frame with slotted and/or oversized holes to give future adjustment. Use cover strips to hide this movement joint.

    Mike
  2.  
    What sort of thermal efficiency are you looking for with these doors?
    If the barn remains an unheated structure there will be different options versus the requirements for a door on a heated building.
  3.  
    BUMP!!
    Seems to be 2 posts started at the same time - to avoid confusion could the real post please stand up!!:confused::confused:
    • CommentAuthorManninwood
    • CommentTimeOct 3rd 2012 edited
     
    As suggested above you need to be really really careful with this, the potential for total failure is very high, I have seen more than one failure due to frame moving and pinching the joinery unit. You're basically trying to fit modern hinge, slider and locking technology with virtually no tolerance for movement (due to the nature of the way they work), in to something which is practically guaranteed to move.

    I fitted three sets in to one of my oak frames about 3 years ago. It was up to me to detail it and the only way I was happy to do it was have them fitted in to individual heavy galv steel box frames round each unit. We increased the gap for the face glazing system and the frames sat in there, with slotted mounts to allow the steel frame to move independent to the oak, and stay square and true for the door units within. The units were larger than the opening as usual and mounted against the face of the oak on epdm dry seals to accommodate the movement.

    I still see the client regularly and they have apparently had no problems so far, despite the fact that they use the room for a hot-tub and I imagine the oak is twisted all over the place by now! When clients ask me about them now I tell them it can be done, but I always recommend looking in to alternatives. For the amount most people actually use them fully, a good set of french windows is a hell of a lot easier and cheaper. Folding sliding doors are expensive enough if you go for decent quality, fitting them in to oak frames doubled the cost on that job! I hope you have deep pockets!



    :shocked:
    • CommentAuthorRobur
    • CommentTimeOct 3rd 2012 edited
     
    Hello coversfarm,

    I have used Adjufix for fixing joinery into green oak frame before (although folding/sliding in a green oak frame is a big ask - perhaps consider a joinery type which is more forgiving !!) and they seem to work well but be sure to use their screws (not stainless so you will get some corrosion) and back them (the screws not the sheath) off a good 10mm (depending on post size and location of heart) for a year or two before coming back to them for a final adjustment and tightening.

    I would recommend getting a sample to understand how they might work for your application before committing.

    http://www.itw-industry.com/adjufix.htm
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeOct 4th 2012
     
    Got some significant shrinkage with some oak in my house. Posts around 3m long have shrunk 12-15mm in some cases.

    Any fittings going into green oak should be stainless steel? Might complicate finding adjustable ones.
  4.  
    Thank you all for you comments and suggestions - I am very nervous now, as the frame and doors are already built, and due to be installed in the next week or so. To answer your questions:

    - The barn will be heated (airsource & underfloor), and the oak posts (250mm square) will bridge inside and outside. Above the doors is a green oak beam, which the door frame will also fix to
    - Doors are double glazed, hardwood (not oak)

    I like the idea of:
    - Guarantee - the joiner knows they are green oak posts, so I wil obtain a guarantee
    - Adjusting bolts are all adjustable - ha ha, my fault! - but the Adjufix system seems worth looking at
    - If not, then "floating the frame" and disguising the joints may be the only other option, using steel I guess.

    How long do you think it will take for the oak frame to "settle down" and stabilise?

    Wish I'd researched more thoroughly before ...groan!

    Craig
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeOct 5th 2012
     
    Most of the worst movement will be in the first year however oak especially is a slow dryer and this initial drying can last two years? And it will continue to move for many many years to a lesser degree.
    • CommentAuthorpmusgrove
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2012
     
    I had exactly the same as you but the frame was up for a good two years before we fitted the frame to the green oak. I would certainly not do so again. I now believe the best way is to sandwich the door frame between oak beads that are attached to the green oak. This would allow the door frame to float within the secondary frame built using the beads. Airtightness can be gained by using compriband between the door frame and the beading. Our frame has been up for three years and is still shrinking and twisting. I doubt it will ever totally stop doing so!
    • CommentAuthoran02ew
    • CommentTimeOct 7th 2012
     
    Great idea pm, a lot of work in these green oak building although not all of it obvious as just the frame itself. any connection of other elements have to be really detailed, we worked for an architect that designed jacking plates within the timber frame, so any movement could be compensated.
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